Question:

  C’mon Waldo, you know about a cowboy and his pony. <g I imagine they can’t wait for winter to roll around every year! <g — Warren Findley Shut up and fish! For Yellowstone Clave info: http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt/YNP.html

Response:

Can’t we all just get along?  I do have a good imagination, don’t i?  I just want to discuss fly fishing and the various equipment we spend our hard earned money on. P.s   I no I ain’t no good at gramer uv the inglish langwij. Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yeah, I know what he is talking about. My feathers aren’t ruffled. Can’t you tell I gave him a "retort" also. I actually visisted that website. But if I wan’t sex humor, I’ll vist the appropriate groups. Rob rob, tis sad, but, well…uhmmm, that’s the only sex rw gets. –waldo ps… you misspelt "wank"

Response:

Chill Rob.  When you make a comment like "I tried it on grass and is was pretty nice" you have to expect a joke response.  I had a nice one all typed in and resisted (but as expected, the gap was filled).  We all get along just fine.  We even goof on each other.  That’s life, that’s ROFF. –Stan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can’t we all just get along?  I do have a good imagination, don’t i?  I just want to discuss fly fishing and the various equipment we spend our hard earned money on.

Response:

Chill Rob.  When you make a comment like "I tried it on grass and is was pretty nice" you have to expect a joke response.  

Even in rec.outdoors.lawnmowers.abel?  Speaking of which, maybe someone ought to start a syndicate and float bonds in case they do get stoned and make one….  Of course, if had been Asadi or ‘tripper, no one would have noticed… (but as expected, the gap was filled).

SEX HUMOR! SEX HUMOR!! We all get along just fine.  

What’s this "we" shit, kemosabe? We even goof on each other.

SEX HUMOR! SEX HUMOR!! That’s life, that’s ROFF.

That sounds like a song…. –Stan Can’t we all just get along?  

Sure, Rodney… I do have a good imagination, don’t i?

Well, let’s see – how many dirty words can you make with these letters: qwertyuiopasdfghjklzxcvbnm? I just want to discuss fly fishing and the various equipment we spend our hard earned money on.

"JUST?"  Then what the hell are you doing reading ROFF? TC, R

Response:

That’s life, that’s ROFF.

That’s ROFF (that’s ROFF), that’s what all the people say You’re skunked in April, hit runoff in May But I know I’m gonna change that tune When I’m back on top, back on top in June I said that’s ROFF (that’s ROFF), and as funny as it may seem Some people get their kicks stompin’ on a dream But I don’t let it, let it get me down ’cause this fine old world, it keeps flyin’ around I’ve been a joker, a troller, a pirate, a poet, a pawn and a king I’ve been up and down and over and out and I know one thing Each time I find myself

Question:

Can anyone help me.  I love biking and flyfishing in lakes in the South. It just seems natural that i should have a small one man fishing boat with pedals like a bicycle.  Ideally it would have gears much like a 3-speed, or 10-speed bike. Could a bicycle frame be adapted to  power a small boat?  If anyone knows of such a beast or kits/plans, etc. please let me know.  Thank you.

Response:

We have plans for pedal boats.  These date back to the 40’s and 50’s. I do not recall whether any of them have gearing like a 3 or 10 speed bike.  We charge $15 for copying and mailing.  Contact us if you are still interested. Good Luck and Fair Seas Marshall and Jo Duhaime,Jr. Classic Boatworks of Maine – We build and restore classic wood boats. http://www.nemaine.com/classicboatworks

Can anyone help me.  I love biking and flyfishing in lakes in the South. It just seems natural that i should have a small one man fishing boat with pedals like a bicycle.  Ideally it would have gears much like a 3-speed, or 10-speed bike. Could a bicycle frame be adapted to  power a small boat?  If anyone knows of such a beast or kits/plans, etc. please let me know.  Thank you.

Response:

We have plans for pedal boats.  These date back to the 40’s and 50’s. I do not recall whether any of them have gearing like a 3 or 10 speed bike.  We charge $15 for copying and mailing.  Contact us if you are still interested. Good Luck and Fair Seas Marshall and Jo Duhaime,Jr. Classic Boatworks of Maine – We build and restore classic wood boats. http://www.nemaine.com/classicboatworks

Can anyone help me.  I love biking and flyfishing in lakes in the South. It just seems natural that i should have a small one man fishing boat with pedals like a bicycle.  Ideally it would have gears much like a 3-speed, or 10-speed bike. Could a bicycle frame be adapted to  power a small boat?  If anyone knows of such a beast or kits/plans, etc. please let me know.  Thank you.

Response:

Question:

   In the first place Mike didn’t do anything any decent person would have done. I sent an E-mail to Dianna telling her my opinion of the article and received a reply which was negative and did not sound like her.  I did not know about the injury to her husband and the pressure she was under at the time.  As the Editor she did have a responsibility to place a disclaimer to state FAOL’s position on Old Ruff’s article, which she did not do.  This made it appear that they condoned this inflammatory article.  Then she removed the negative comments about it from FAOL which further indicated FAOL’s position was to agree with the article.  Deanna made some serious errors and her actions led to the current situation.    Mike’s reputation is even better with me because he has the courage of his convictions.  If I had to chose between Mike and FAOL, Mike would win every time. Ernie Harrison – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a certain reputation to uphold here, and elsewhere.< Not any more. Oh, I think Mike still enjoys a pretty good reputation on ROFF.  Of course, my supposition hinges on the assumption that you don’t speak for all of us…….I could be wrong.

Response:

ROFF is the one place, FAOL cannot censor opposing points of view. < And one YOU cannot censor.

And what have I censored? bc.

Response:

HRBlain writes: I could be wrong.< You often are.

Careful, HR, or you’ll end up in Bmabia, which is right next to Bmalia.  In fact, they share the same fire and police dpts.  The young ladies in Bmabia, however, are small titted, unlike the lucious dolls of Bmalia.  Something about the water I suspect. Dave L.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Mike,   Ok, already! Perhaps it is only me, but I see no need to burden ROFF with ongoing matters on FAOL. For days on end, we get a bombardment of threads, the vast majority started by yourself, to discuss your beef with folks who don’t regularly contribute here. Wasn’t it you who had to depart us once before over needless bulk caused by other threads? You seem to be taken with the need to justify on this forum why you shouldn’t be blamed for the demise(if indeed such happens)of FAOL. It is perfectly rational that some blame you. Get over it. Get back to the insightful and well written stuff that has endeared you to many. I miss your angling writing, and hope not to offend with these observations.                         regards,                          Tom Littleton "Every now and then when your life gets complicated and the weasels start closing in, the only real cure is to load up on heinous chemicals and then drive like a bastard from Hollywood to Las Vegas."

Tom: I am little more than a lurker here with very few posts to my credit. I have, however, read Mr. Connors and many others posts over the last 6 months. In this time I’ve found him to be free with his knowledge, a prolific contributor to the group, and above all, a reasonable and courteous gentleman. He now finds himself in a position of being slandered, quoted out of context, and generally maligned by persons who aren’t qualified to carry his creel. His integrity has been called in to question by persons with less than honourable methods. I think he has handled himself with more restraint than I could. If he feels that posting to a public forum is the best way to defend his name, I am willing to afford him some lattitude. IMHO, ROFF is a forum for educated (formal or otherwise) and sometimes opinionated, gentleman to gather for thought provoking discussion with fly fishing being the tie that binds (if not always the main topic <G). When I get tired of a thread I just move to the next subject header. Rick O. "Children are born with an innate sense of justice; it usually takes twelve years of public schooling and four more years of college to beat it out of them." "Growth for the sake of growth is the ideology of the cancer cell."

Response:

Like I said in another post… "Crusty Factor" — Michael Era

Question:

Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers? A friend told me that you could preserve them with borax.  We have not yet been able to come up with a mixture ratio for this material.  Are there other preservatives which could be used? First task is to remove all fat or flesh from the skin.  When this is done, some tyers do not bother with any preservative, since they are not going to use the skin for any purpose, i.e. it does not need to stay flexible.

No, but it does need to be bug resistant.  I find that soaking bird or mammal skins in a saturated borax solution* and then drying them in a tray full of borax bug-proofs them without the use of anything smelly or toxic. *Fill a pail with hot water.  Add borax (plain unscented washing soda) and stir.  Keep adding borax until no more will dissolve.  Cool to room temperature. Soak your skins. Keep your stick on the ice, Thos.

Response:

Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers?

snip….. snip…. No, but it does need to be bug resistant.  I find that soaking bird or mammal skins in a saturated borax solution* and then drying them in a tray full of borax bug-proofs them without the use of anything smelly or toxic. *Fill a pail with hot water.  Add borax (plain unscented washing soda) and stir.  Keep adding borax until no more will dissolve.  Cool to room temperature. Soak your skins.

Here’s another method that has worked well for me. Scrape all fat off the underside of the skin. Tack the skin to a board or piece of cardboard with the feathers down. Make sure the feathers are dry and arranged the way you want them before you do this. Sprinkle dry borax on the scraped skin surface covering all exposed skin. Be generous with the Borax. It will absorb water out of the skin. I kind of pile it on. Let it sit out for a few days to a few weeks. I don’t know the minimum time because I often set these out in the garage or basement and forget them for a while. A low humidity area would be best. When the skin is crinkly dry, untack it and brush off the borax and you are done. For a final treatment, put it in a plastic baggy and run it through several freeze-thaw cycles in order to kill any remaining resident insects. Cheers. Jon

Response:

I’ve used footpowder to "cure" moose hide and it really works. Don’t see why it wouldn’t do the same thing on capes :O)  It’s also inexpesive and goes a long ways. Keith P

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers? A friend told me that you could preserve them with borax.  We have not yet been able to come up with a mixture ratio for this material.  Are there other preservatives which could be used? Also,  I would like to dye some of the capes.  Have heard that you should dye at the same time the felts are being cured? Any information on this procedure would be very appreciated. Trout Bum.

I just use plain old course salt.  Just spread the salt generously over the hyde and lay out in the sun, feather side down of course.  The saly draws out the moisture and the sun evaporates it.  After the skin is dry I shake off the excess salt then dust with talcum powder.  I still have pelts from pheasant season of two years ago, works great for me.                                                         Spy in Hawaii

Response:

Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers? A friend told me that you could preserve them with borax.  We have not yet been able to come up with a mixture ratio for this material.  Are there other preservatives which could be used?

Hi BB, Years ago, I had some young customers that would go to the local live stock auction and bid on old roosters. They said they paid about $2 to $3 for live birds. They killed and skinned them. They tacked the skins feather side down, skin side up on a wood surface. They used salt to dry up and cure the skins. After they are real dry and stiff, I would put them into an airtight container or a big zip lock bag. As far as dying the feathers goes, you can use Rite or Vinyards(sp) dye. It is an art and not many do it well. The skin/feathers have to be clean, de-greased and moistened to except the dye. You put the dye into water and control the temperature so as to not ‘burn’ or ‘cook’ the feathers. I think we added something like rubbing alcohol to set the dye? You need very white hackle if you are looking for bright colors. Black is very hard to get. It can turn out purple. I hear about ‘cold’ dying processes. Good luck and have fun. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

Response:

Hi, The method I used to preserve some pheasant skins was to scrape off as much fat as possible with a *non-serated edge* butter knife, stretch out and tack the skin feather side down, rub out and let dry with rock salt (usually 2 or 3 applications) and finally to cover the remaining almost-clean skin with borax. Then I let it dry in the garage for about 2 weeks.   Then I put them in a zip-lock bag.  Still have some of one skin left after ~12 years.

**SNIP** As far as dying the feathers goes, you can use Rite or Vinyards(sp) dye. It is an art and not many do it well. The skin/feathers have to be clean, de-greased and moistened to except the dye. You put the dye into water and control the temperature so as to not ‘burn’ or ‘cook’ the feathers. I think we added something like rubbing alcohol to set the dye? You need very white hackle if you are looking for bright colors. Black is very hard to get. It can turn out purple. I hear about ‘cold’ dying processes. Good luck and have fun.

To get a decent black with RIT dye you also have to add some brown into the mix.  Added a bit of Vinegar to set the dye (insturctions on the package). Like Bill said, you have to be careful with the temperatures (use a candy thermometer) or you can ruin some great feathers.   This is a very messy process but is worth the effort if you can’t get what you need locally and you can dye a bunch of stuff at once.  A.K. Best has a book out on dying materials that is quite good if your interested.                                   Good Fishing,                                         Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools Mt. Shasta Fly Fishing Schools http://www.thegrid.net/flyfish

Response:

Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers? A friend told me that you could preserve them with borax.  We have not yet been able to come up with a mixture ratio for this material.  Are there other preservatives which could be used? Also,  I would like to dye some of the capes.  Have heard that you should dye at the same time the felts are being cured?   Any information on this procedure would be very appreciated. Trout Bum.

Response:

Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers? A friend told me that you could preserve them with borax.  We have not yet been able to come up with a mixture ratio for this material.  Are there other preservatives which could be used?

First task is to remove all fat or flesh from the skin.  When this is done, some tyers do not bother with any preservative, since they are not going to use the skin for any purpose, i.e. it does not need to stay flexible. Also,  I would like to dye some of the capes.  Have heard that you should dye at the same time the felts are being cured?  

See Eric Leiser’s Fly Tying Materials (1973) or other books.  The main points seem to be preliminary rinse with a mordant, to maximize dye’s effect, and then control of temperature to avoid cooking (the way egg white is transformed by high temperature.) — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Response:

Question:

Hey Cliff, make sure you tell him to stop by Chessman on his way to RMNP so he gets a good dose of WD on his waders to take with him. Mike Miller

Response:

I will be in Rocky Mountain National Park the 3rd week of july. Does anybody have any suggestions about what water should be good and which flies usually work best? Thanks, Larry.

Response:

writes: I will be in Rocky Mountain National Park the 3rd week of july. Does anybody have any suggestions about what water should be good and which flies usually work best? Thanks, Larry.

Larry, Estes Park, Colorado is located just outside the Park gates. They also have a flyshop complete with guide services, ect… I’m not sure of the name though, but their the only flyshop in Estes, Co. Needless to say, don’t miss Estes. Nice place to visit.

Response:

writes: I will be in Rocky Mountain National Park the 3rd week of july. Does anybody have any suggestions about what water should be good and which flies usually work best? Thanks, Larry.

Larry, I would try "Anglers All" Flyshop in Littleton, Colorado. The guy that runs it is a friend of "Jack Dennis." His wife is probably the best flyshop assistant available. Anyway, they are a first class flyshop and will have everything you need. Ph: (303) 794-1104.                             Best of luck, Cliff

Response:

Larry, Estes has several excellent fly shops including the estes angler and colo. wilderness shop. The river will be at normal levels and fishing well by that time. The lakes such as sprague and lily will be typical for brookies. That is small flies and brassies will get you a load of 10" to 12" fish in a short time. For larger browns and rainbows try the thompson below the town. Stop by and ask Dave at Colo. wilderness for specifics. good luck B. griggers

Response:

Question:

Path: (trim) If you are looking for an inexpensive fly foatant go to any drug store and buy a product called Aboline. Get the unscented. For about $5.00 you’ll get a many year supply.

Al: you are right about Albolene. The stuff works exactly like Gink.   But…once you’ve got that $5 lifetime supply, have you been able to figure out how to put into a usable container? I tried melting the stuff once, then pouring it into an old Gink tube. When it set, it was too thick to squeeze out, and I’m not so sure melting doesn’t cause it to lose some of its floating quality.  Would appreciate any suggestions. John

Response:

That powder in the tub stuff is dessicant! It absorbs the water on the fly so you can use more flotant. My favorite flotant is the Orvis stuff which is a liquid. You dump your dry fly in ther, give it a few false casts and away you go. Don’t know what it is or why it works, just that it works better for me than the silicon pastes.      Speaking about the paste types flotants, I have heard two ways of using them. One is to apply the paste sparingly to the feather barbules, the other to coat the body of the fly with it. Which way do you other flyfishers use it?      Trey Monroe

Response:

    Speaking about the paste types flotants, I have heard two ways of using them. One is to apply the paste sparingly to the feather barbules, the other to coat the body of the fly with it. Which way do you other flyfishers use it?     Trey Monroe

With Gink, I usually take a microscopic amount and rub into both the body and the hackle.  It seems to work pretty well…I notice my dries definitely don’t get waterlogged as quickly when I use it. Scott W.

Response:

That powder in the tub stuff is dessicant! It absorbs the water on the fly so you can use more flotant. My favorite flotant is the Orvis stuff which is a liquid. You dump your dry fly in ther, give it a few false casts and away you go. Don’t know what it is or why it works, just that it works better for me than the silicon pastes.     Speaking about the paste types flotants, I have heard two ways of using them. One is to apply the paste sparingly to the feather barbules, the other to coat the body of the fly with it. Which way do you other flyfishers use it?     Trey Monroe

Hi Trey I apply it sparingly to the complete fly. All the paste does is provide a water barrier to keep the fly from soaking up water. Even at that after catching several fish a fly can be come water logged. The fly floatant my company manufacturers also helps keep hands soft. For me the constant wetting and drying of my hands makes them real dry after a few days fishing. I use the dessicant powder to quickly dry a watter logged fly and the Orvis liquid I believe is a sylicone based floatant. If you are looking for an inexpensive fly foatant go to any drug store and buy a product called Aboline. Get the unscented. For about $5.00 you’ll get a many year supply. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

Response:

Here are some questions for the experts in this group: Should flotant be applied only to a completely dry fly?  If not, what degree of dampness is ok (real easy to describe, I know!)? What type and brand is best liked, and why?  Do the flys so treated need to be kept separate from the rest (are they messy)? Thanks for the advice!

Check "Tips and Techniques" at    http://www.flyline.com   there is a whole thing about treating wet dry and soggy flies!    -Ralph —

Response:

: : Here are some questions for the experts in this group: : Should flotant be applied only to a completely dry fly?   : Yes it should, if it is a dryfly you are using and not a : nymph or wet fly. : If not, : what degree of dampness is ok (real easy to describe, I know!)? : What type and brand is best liked, and why?   : I use dessicant crytals to completely dry the fly before reapplying : floatant if my fly gets soggy. Most of the floatants are pretty much : the same thing, so brand doesn’t matter much. : Do the flys so : treated need to be kept separate from the rest (are they messy)? : Not if it is stored with other dryflies. : Darryl Hayashida : This is a good thread…because I’ve always wondered about floatants. : There are obviously many kinds on the market, from the spray-can : variety to Gerkhe’s Gink.  I’ve used the Gink alot and I honestly : think it makes a difference.  What do others think? : Also…what about these dessicants as mentioned above?  How is this : accomplished?  And what about this powder-in-a-tub stuff that you roll : your fly around in? : Curious Scott Most of the "crystals" are silica gel which is a hygroscopic (water loving) material.  I like to keep mine in an empty film case.  I put the fly in, lid on, give it a shake and if time permits, leave it inside for a few minutes.  I don’t even bother to clip off the tippet, as the plastic case doesn’t hurt it.  After a few minutes, remove the fly, blow off any clinging particles and you’re ready to go.  If you can, get "indicating" desicants that change color when wet.  Mine change from dark blue (dry) to pink (wet).    After a few trips (maybe 20 flies) the gel is starting to turn pink, so I throw it in a dry frying pan and cook the gel on medium heat for a few minutes until it turns dark blue again. Pour it onto some foil and let it cool for a minute before sealing back in the film case.  (Wash the frying pan well after use!).   Remember, these are powerful drying agents that can suck the moisture out of the air, so if they aren’t kept sealed, they’ll turn pink overnight. Pete

Response:

Here are some questions for the experts in this group: Should flotant be applied only to a completely dry fly?  If not, what degree of dampness is ok (real easy to describe, I know!)? What type and brand is best liked, and why?  Do the flys so treated need to be kept separate from the rest (are they messy)? Thanks for the advice! —   David B. Perry   P.O. Box 808 L-419              phone:  (510) 423-7034

Response:

Here are some questions for the experts in this group: Should flotant be applied only to a completely dry fly?  If not, what degree of dampness is ok (real easy to describe, I know!)? What type and brand is best liked, and why?  Do the flys so treated need to be kept separate from the rest (are they messy)? Thanks for the advice!

use so much that a little oil slick forms around the bug in the water. the theory here is that the fish think the Exxon Valdez captain is on the bottle again and they come looking around for dead seagulls. thus, you’ll want to tie on a #2 adams, and twitch it. TimW

Response:

Here are some questions for the experts in this group: Should flotant be applied only to a completely dry fly?  

Yes it should, if it is a dryfly you are using and not a nymph or wet fly. If not, what degree of dampness is ok (real easy to describe, I know!)? What type and brand is best liked, and why?  

I use dessicant crytals to completely dry the fly before reapplying floatant if my fly gets soggy. Most of the floatants are pretty much the same thing, so brand doesn’t matter much. Do the flys so treated need to be kept separate from the rest (are they messy)?

Not if it is stored with other dryflies. Darryl Hayashida

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Here are some questions for the experts in this group: Should flotant be applied only to a completely dry fly?   Yes it should, if it is a dryfly you are using and not a nymph or wet fly. If not, what degree of dampness is ok (real easy to describe, I know!)? What type and brand is best liked, and why?   I use dessicant crytals to completely dry the fly before reapplying floatant if my fly gets soggy. Most of the floatants are pretty much the same thing, so brand doesn’t matter much. Do the flys so treated need to be kept separate from the rest (are they messy)? Not if it is stored with other dryflies. Darryl Hayashida

This is a good thread…because I’ve always wondered about floatants. There are obviously many kinds on the market, from the spray-can variety to Gerkhe’s Gink.  I’ve used the Gink alot and I honestly think it makes a difference.  What do others think? Also…what about these dessicants as mentioned above?  How is this accomplished?  And what about this powder-in-a-tub stuff that you roll your fly around in? Curious Scott

Response:

Question:

I realize that the best place to practice casting is in the water, but will casting in the yard damage my line?  I am new to fly fishing, so I don’t have any old lines to use, and I’d rather not trash an expensive line.  Should I buy an inexpensive line to practice with and save the $40 line for the water?   Thanks,

Response:

I realize that the best place to practice casting is in the water, but will casting in the yard damage my line?  I am new to fly fishing, so I don’t have any old lines to use, and I’d rather not trash an expensive line.  Should I buy an inexpensive line to practice with and save the $40 line for the water?

If you have a dog, just keep it clear of lawn, uh, ‘browns’. TimW

Response:

says… I realize that the best place to practice casting is in the water, but will casting in the yard damage my line?  I am new to fly fishing, so I don’t have any old lines to use, and I’d rather not trash an expensive line.  Should I buy an inexpensive line to practice with and save the $40 line for the water?   Thanks,

Hi Mark, If it’s just grass you are casting on, don’t be concerned. Pavement, cement, mud, sand etc. will be very tough on your line. On grass or water, clean your line often and hang it in large loops when not in use for extended periods ( month or more) Cheap lines will slow your learning progress. Buy a good line and look after it and the lawn will be a great place to practice. Don’t forget to add leader before you begin to practice and tie a small piece of yarn on the end of the leader. Flys get caught in the grass and you won’t need one to learn. We conduct classes on grass, using our own rods and lines, with over a hundred and fifty students per year. We use Mastery lines, clean them often, and hang them in the off season. Two to three years with very, very little sign of wear. Clean with soap and water and 3M line cleaner. Fly fishing is catching … learn to let go Dennis Grant Atlantic Fly Fishing School

Response:

Should I buy an inexpensive line to practice with and save the $40 line for the water?  

Hello Mark, It sshould be o.k. to practice with your line on grass as long as you clean it.  Never cast your line on concrete.  I work for a shop and we provide lines to cast with on concrete and they last very short.  Just use a good cleaning product or just dish soap.  Then use Glide or something like it to put a good coating on your line.  Your line should be fine. Good Casting, Paul Johnson,

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: says… : : I realize that the best place to practice casting is in the water, but : will casting in the yard damage my line?  I am new to fly fishing, so I : don’t have any old lines to use, and I’d rather not trash an expensive : line.  Should I buy an inexpensive line to practice with and save the $40 : line for the water?   : If it’s just grass you are casting on, don’t be concerned… : Don’t forget to add leader before you begin to practice and tie a small : piece of yarn on the end of the leader… This is how I learned to cast (from Dave Engerbretson at a University Enrichment short course).  Two things I’d add:         1. be sure to clean and dress your line before you go fishing.         Grass will get your line dirty, which will make it hard to shoot         line.  But of course, you clean your line after every outing         anyway…right?         2. Have a couple snappy comebacks for the neighbors who wonder         what you’re fishing for.  Some possibilities: "I thought I saw a lawn         carp" or "with so many worms, I thought for sure there’d be         fish". — Laboratory for Applied Logic    Dept. of Computer Science University of Idaho             www: http://www.cs.uidaho.edu/~foster —–BEGIN PGP PUBLIC KEY BLOCK—– Version: 2.6.2 mQCNAzDtvLEAAAEEAKAC21G2Be0K0DMgjLpxrwLmsYfCz8rWcfgyABjr3Ryfk1dO nV7fFFpUF3xohR7die+/B2V9oqRQzTLeSF2ECKlsTY/yUyw2kn+P2ju1umh4Fwzd cVTvc+H69q1+Ft3kmw/PE0Pan+g0PUGGJ43stw3q4OgBHdixbRd/f9giJFDxAAUR tCZKYW1lcyBBLiBGb3N0ZXIgPGZvc3RlckBjcy51aWRhaG8uZWR1PokAlQMFEDD8 ReEXf3/YIiRQ8QEBFrAD/2AFuRWcD/3MENC3qJMC/Or1qxknjkK7Uv+TDf2LHPOY GHBbG9PyWuXQ8of0Dd+JYwf/tzlO9Yk1s1zTdikfriak21FW0bCokxDIhA3myppZ IZDWVA9CyvDYHuP5Ii1NkBvocab813JzDLZA+0iVN5sebGb9zSXR4Za47hlriHeP =RDHK —–END PGP PUBLIC KEY BLOCK—–

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Question:

Is there a censorship policy established for this group?  It was fun for a while to watch the K-9 act like a fool, but I’m afraid it’s escalated to obsurdity.  This boy vs girl mentality is remeniscent of a 4th grade   classroom with the corresponding IQ & emotional levels. If there is no censorship policy, then I would encourage other’s to use the "n/return" function on your computers. Tim

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: Is there a censorship policy established for this group?  It was fun for a : while to watch the K-9 act like a fool, but I’m afraid it’s escalated to : obsurdity.  This boy vs girl mentality is remeniscent of a 4th grade   : classroom with the corresponding IQ & emotional levels. : If there is no censorship policy, then I would encourage other’s to use : the "n/return" function on your computers. : Tim The only censorship should be from censor mavens such as yourself.   Go read alt.cindy.brady, eh… Tim Walker

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: The only censorship should be from censor mavens such as yourself.   : Go read alt.cindy.brady, eh… : Tim Walker Heeee’sss BACK! Welcome. Rick — T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Assistant professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    |  These University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    |  opinions Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. |  are mine.  

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The only censorship should be from censor mavens such as yourself.  

Having Tim Walker defend free speech for all r.o.f.f. postings is like having Frank Zappa defend free speech for the entire rock music industry. Yes, theoretically, I’m all for free speech; I just wish that all rock musicians and all r.o.f.f. posters had as much worthwhile to say as Frank and Tim.  Provocative posts which encourage fresh thinking about fly fishing are one thing; the boring, puerile, misogynist whinings that are so fashionable nowadays are quite another. Woods Hole, MA   USA

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[gone with swell foops of the del key] : and Tim.  Provocative posts which encourage fresh thinking about fly : fishing are one thing; the boring, puerile, misogynist whinings that are so : fashionable nowadays are quite another. And, virtually indistingushable sometimes…. Tim Walker

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Question:

Fly fishing for Bass on the Kanawha River near Charleston, West Virginia is a trip.. Something not for the typical Fisherman. Now the water is up and very muddy, but when it go back down, I’ll let everyone know how the Fishing is…. Misha

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very muddy, but when it go back down, I’ll let everyone know how the Fishing is….

Yes please!  I especially like that strech just before Rt. 60 goes up into the mountains.  (would that be Gauly Bridge? ) Bob

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Question:

I’m planning a flyfishing trip to Jackson Hole sometime next spring. Two fishermen and two non-fishers will be going. Where should we stay? Can someone recommend a good guide for 1 day to show us the lay of the land/water? Will the non-fishers be happy for about 1 week? When is the best time to go in terms of fish/lack of pressure? Thanks.

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I’m planning a flyfishing trip to Jackson Hole sometime next spring. Two fishermen and two non-fishers will be going. Where should we stay? Can someone recommend a good guide for 1 day to show us the lay of the land/water? Will the non-fishers be happy for about 1 week? When is the best time to go in terms of fish/lack of pressure? Thanks.

Jackson can be a very expensive place to stay. Even in my advanced state of career etc. I still bristle at the cost of some of my trips. (remember, homes there are going for 7 figures easily) As for places to stay, one nice place is the Elk Refuge Inn, a newer place with a nice view of the Elk refuge, a short distance from town, shopping and dining. Good for non fishers I am sure. It is near some good fishing on the Snake and across from some fishing near the Hatchery which is next to the refuge. Also reasonable. 307-733-3582. Another place is the Hobak River Resort, south of town a few miles. A little jumbled with various type of rooms and cabins. The chief reason to stay there is its cheaper and near one of my favorite rivers. About 11 miles upstream (by road) from the intersection with the motel in the Hoback Canyon. Delightful fishing. Just pull off the road, (I usually cast from the bank!, easy to cast across this small river/stream) and go to it. Lots of native cutthroat. As far as guides, its hard to go wrong with Jack Dennis Sports, or the local Orvis store. The Orvis store is nice, but like most others. Definitely go see Jack Dennis Sports. There is a pleasing young lady by the name of Lori Ann, (I think she works for Orvis). I understand she is very competent and experienced. I have never used her as I have not yet used a guide in the area but plan to use her in the future. She comes highly recommended. Ask around. If the non fishers have the cash, they will find plenty to spend it on. Or, have them bring a camera and have them go to Teton Nat’l park and Yellowstone and take pictures. Spring can be cold, get there before or after runoff. Call the shops for advice on timing. Book rooms and guides early. They fillup fast. Kevin Williams-Indianapolis, IN

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