Question:

Get Delorme’s ‘Topo 4′ or any of the other topographical software packages. They contain a majority of the roads and trails that exist in the U.S. and armed with a GPS receiver and a laptop computer you could more than likely cross the entire country with a minimum of pavement. Someone with savy map and compass skills could pre-select the route and go it on paper, although the lap top and GPS allow you to deviate when you want, or when necessary, as the real time conditions and choices come upon you. Bob Walker

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a dream. It is a nice dream. In this dream there is an interstate network of 4×4 trails . Imagine being able to drive from Charlotte NC to Charleston WV and have it take 2 weeks to get there. Imagine finding trails everywhere you go. Some among you say "That would be too expensive. " or " Who’s house are you going to bulldoze for your hobby?"

Response:

I have a dream. It is a nice dream. In this dream there is an interstate network of 4×4 trails . Imagine being able to drive from Charlotte NC to Charleston WV and have it take 2 weeks to get there. Imagine finding trails everywhere you go. Some among you say "That would be too expensive. " or " Who’s house are you going to bulldoze for your hobby?" My answer is: It would be very cheap. And no one’s house would have to torn down. We have this network of high voltage power transmission lines. It criss-crosses the entire nation. There are almost no houses built under these power lines. Most people don’t want to live near them.   Here is how we pay for it. Tax breaks for power companies. Every power company has at least one bulldozer.  Those same companies have the right-of-way for the land under their lines. The places that have no roads would be bulldozed one time and then left to deteriorate.  Just so the power companies would not have to face any liablility (and also so they can maybe make a buck or 2 in the process) there could be permits issued by the CO for a small fee. Anyone who leaves trash would have their permits revoked and given the proper fine for littering. Think of the backwater places that will get money from the four wheel drives going by. Think of the fun that could be had. Sure there are places that no truck will be able to cross. There could be access trails to and from those areas to the main road. Wouldn’t it be grand? Everyone get together and bug your representative about this. Let’s get that interstate trail system. Nature lovers UNITE!

Response:

I have a dream. It is a nice dream. In this dream there is an interstate network of 4×4 trails . Imagine being able to drive from Charlotte NC to Charleston WV and have it take 2 weeks to get there. I

Of course that cheap beer you’ve been drinking is bad for you.  If you’d wake up you’d discover that there are already many miles of off roading, some interstate, in the eastern US.  Try Tellico in eastern TN, over the mountains to NC.  In southern KY a network, some requiring very minor on road excursions, can take you into TN.   In the west, all you need to do is look.  Try the UT/CO border for some very good examples.   The idea of Government allowing unlimited access in this age of terrorism won’t fly.  Be happy with what we’ve got. Dick Burg

Response:

Most power lines are on private property, built using right-of-ways. Though the power company can enter the land to maintain their lines, etc., the land is still private, and subject to the owner’s restrictions. You’d have to negoiate with every land owner (and there would be many) to make this work. Good try, though! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I have a dream. It is a nice dream. In this dream there is an interstate network of 4×4 trails . Imagine being able to drive from Charlotte NC to Charleston WV and have it take 2 weeks to get there. Imagine finding trails everywhere you go. Some among you say "That would be too expensive. " or " Who’s house are you going to bulldoze for your hobby?" My answer is: It would be very cheap. And no one’s house would have to torn down. We have this network of high voltage power transmission lines. It criss-crosses the entire nation. There are almost no houses built under these power lines. Most people don’t want to live near them.   Here is how we pay for it. Tax breaks for power companies. Every power company has at least one bulldozer.  Those same companies have the right-of-way for the land under their lines. The places that have no roads would be bulldozed one time and then left to deteriorate.  Just so the power companies would not have to face any liablility (and also so they can maybe make a buck or 2 in the process) there could be permits issued by the CO for a small fee. Anyone who leaves trash would have their permits revoked and given the proper fine for littering. Think of the backwater places that will get money from the four wheel drives going by. Think of the fun that could be had. Sure there are places that no truck will be able to cross. There could be access trails to and from those areas to the main road. Wouldn’t it be grand? Everyone get together and bug your representative about this. Let’s get that interstate trail system. Nature lovers UNITE!

Peter D. Hipson NEHOG (New England Hummer Owners Group) checked monthly.

Response:

Of course that cheap beer you’ve been drinking is bad for you.  If you’d wake up you’d discover that there are already many miles of off roading, some interstate, in the eastern US.  Try Tellico in eastern TN, over the mountains to NC.  In southern KY a network, some requiring very minor on road excursions, can take you into TN.  

All well and good, but those places are far from me. The closest half-decent trail is 50 miles from here.  I have spent many a day looking for someplace around here to go off road. I have been reduced to construction sites and mudholes in parking lots.  Sure, there are atv trails galore, but atv’s require no skill to operate. Any kid can get on one and go anywhere. What is the fun in that? Every non-paved road in this area has either a gate or "NO TRESSPASSING" sign on it.  There are literally thousands of 4 wheel drive SUV’s in the greater Charlotte area.  The only place to go is Uwharrie (50 miles away)  which is lame unless it has been raining for days.  No one can make use of their 4×4 here.  Do you realise that Lake Norman has 800 miles of shoreline and 0 4×4 trails that access it? There used to be a few, on power line rights-of-way, but the snobs that live along the lake forced Duke Power to gate, post and trench every one of them. (Can’t have those poor folk fishing around their million dollar shacks, now can we?) This is a problem that needs addressing. At least in this area. I am looking for the cheapest, least difficult method of correcting this problem. It is surprising that some farmer hasn’t made a 4×4 park yet. With all this drought I would think that would be a good way to make money. I would pay $50 for a season pass, and so would thousands of others. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -In the west, all you need to do is look.  Try the UT/CO border for some very good examples.   The idea of Government allowing unlimited access in this age of terrorism won’t fly.  Be happy with what we’ve got. Dick Burg

Response:

deja.com says… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a dream. It is a nice dream. In this dream there is an interstate network of 4×4 trails . Imagine being able to drive from Charlotte NC to Charleston WV and have it take 2 weeks to get there. Imagine finding trails everywhere you go. Some among you say "That would be too expensive. " or " Who’s house are you going to bulldoze for your hobby?" My answer is: It would be very cheap. And no one’s house would have to torn down. We have this network of high voltage power transmission lines. It criss-crosses the entire nation. There are almost no houses built under these power lines. Most people don’t want to live near them.   Here is how we pay for it. Tax breaks for power companies. Every power company has at least one bulldozer.  Those same companies have the right-of-way for the land under their lines. The places that have no roads would be bulldozed one time and then left to deteriorate.  Just so the power companies would not have to face any liablility (and also so they can maybe make a buck or 2 in the process) there could be permits issued by the CO for a small fee. Anyone who leaves trash would have their permits revoked and given the proper fine for littering. Think of the backwater places that will get money from the four wheel drives going by. Think of the fun that could be had. Sure there are places that no truck will be able to cross. There could be access trails to and from those areas to the main road. Wouldn’t it be grand? Everyone get together and bug your representative about this. Let’s get that interstate trail system. Nature lovers UNITE!

In the west a lot of the power lines are thoruhg Government land and they need trails and access anyway to maintian them.  A worthy idea and it will get you most of your western states.  Since the Eastern states don’t have as much (if any?) government land… That’s another problem.

Response:

Question:

Another good reason NOT to carry your logbook:  If you are ramp-checked, the FAA rep can ask to see your log book.  If you don’t have it with you, you can just say so.

Unless you’re hiding something, why would you NOT want the FAA guy to look at your logbook? We were ramped a few months ago, and it was a complete non-event.   He looked at the airworthiness certificate, my Private certificate, my medical, and wished us a fond farewell.   It took all of about 90 seconds. If he had asked for my logbook (which lives in the seatback pocket, right along with the POH), he would have been welcome to peruse it as well. You guys gotta stop being so paranoid about these FAA guys — they’re not Nazis, ya know! — Jay Honeck Iowa City, IA Warrior N33431

Response:

Jay, Because other than to show currency for the flight, he has no right to ask for it.  I’m not paranoid about the FAA, I get along well with most all of them I meet.  But I still won’t just give them anything they demand on a ramp check either if they have no right to see it.  Your freedoms get eroded in your attitude first.  Just one guy’s opinion. — John Stricker "I didn’t spend all these years getting to the top of the food chain just to be a vegetarian"

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Another good reason NOT to carry your logbook:  If you are ramp-checked, the FAA rep can ask to see your log book.  If you don’t have it with you, you can just say so. Unless you’re hiding something, why would you NOT want the FAA guy to look at your logbook? We were ramped a few months ago, and it was a complete non-event.   He looked at the airworthiness certificate, my Private certificate, my medical, and wished us a fond farewell.   It took all of about 90 seconds. If he had asked for my logbook (which lives in the seatback pocket, right along with the POH), he would have been welcome to peruse it as well. You guys gotta stop being so paranoid about these FAA guys — they’re not Nazis, ya know! — Jay Honeck Iowa City, IA Warrior N33431

Response:

I usually take my logbook with me when I go flying.  I’m careful with it, but probably not careful enough.  I’ve been thinking…. What happens if someone steals my flightbag with my logbook? What happens if I drop my logbook in a puddle and all the inked entries run and become unreadable? What happens if my dog eats it? What happens if I just lose the damn thing? ….and in a related question…. When was the last time you backed up your hard drive? Is it appropriate to "back up" your logbook?  How about your medical, your license?  What do you do to safeguard your logbook?  If it’s lost of damaged, what does that mean?  Should you Xerox you logbook it once in a while as a backup?  In the event of a logbook disaster, would a photocopy mean anything? Just curious.  Thanks.

Response:

What happens if someone steals my flightbag with my logbook? What happens if I drop my logbook in a puddle and all the inked entries run and become unreadable? What happens if my dog eats it? What happens if I just lose the damn thing?

It’s a hassle, but not fatal. Is it appropriate to "back up" your logbook?  

I do.  For one, my logbook sits locked in a fire resistant box at home. It never goes anywhere unless absolutely necessary, which isn’t often anymore. How about your medical, your license?

Don’t worry about those.  Okie City can fax you a temporary replacement in no time, and that’s good until they send you a permanent replacement.  A photocopy won’t fly, though. In the event of a logbook disaster, would a photocopy mean anything?

Yes, it would. Larry Fransson Pilots are just plane people with a different air about them.

Response:

Hi David keep in mind the regs only require you to show proof of recency, or, required time for a rating. That includes the flight review and or endorsements. If you are a rated pilot, you do not have to carry your logbook with you. In fact, I advise against it. Some may argue the point of copies, but in absence of any "written" record, what can you produce to show experience or recency? The time you show when you get your physical? I do know of one pilot that used that to show time for insurance purposes. I found an old logbook that dated back into the mid-50’s with the usual student pilot observations of how smooth a landing was, or a place with great burgers, or whatever. To lose one that records your early days as a pilot is a real loss beyond value. One of my entries recorded the first moon landing and my feelings. Another recorded the first dead stick landing of the shuttle. My first spin, my first X-C, not sure where I was over uncharted territory in the Amazon back in the early 60’s, getting caught in a huge sand storm in the Bayuda Desert in Egypt, recording some of the rich and famous I had on board on different flights. I also have quite a few temporary licenses taped into the logs that date back into the 50’s. Fond memories all….well most are!! So, leave the book at home if you don’t have to carry it along. And, if anyone ever asks you to give it up for FAA action or something similar, DON’T DO IT lest you never see it again. At that point you let an aviation attorney take care of the nuances. Remember, whatever you put in that logbook can be declared a legal document and while it can show you complied, it may also send them on a fishing expedition and hammer you for something stupid and unrelated! Been there-done that…. Fly Safe and remember..deny, Deny DENY!! FlyinRock – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I usually take my logbook with me when I go flying.  I’m careful with it, but probably not careful enough.  I’ve been thinking…. What happens if someone steals my flightbag with my logbook? What happens if I drop my logbook in a puddle and all the inked entries run and become unreadable? What happens if my dog eats it? What happens if I just lose the damn thing? ….and in a related question…. When was the last time you backed up your hard drive? Is it appropriate to "back up" your logbook?  How about your medical, your license?  What do you do to safeguard your logbook?  If it’s lost of damaged, what does that mean?  Should you Xerox you logbook it once in a while as a backup?  In the event of a logbook disaster, would a photocopy mean anything? Just curious.  Thanks.

Before you buy.

Response:

Use pages in the back of your logbook to record BFR/IRCC and other such currency flights/training.  Don’t carry your logbook…if ramped, copy and send only those pages to FAA. Government is too big and has developed a bad attitude about our rights, it is time for everybody to demand full liberty in our personal affairs.  Two guys at least have similar opinion. — Jim Macklin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Jay, Because other than to show currency for the flight, he has no right to ask for it.  I’m not paranoid about the FAA, I get along well with most all of them I meet.  But I still won’t just give them anything they demand on a ramp check either if they have no right to see it.  Your freedoms get eroded in your attitude first.  Just one guy’s opinion. — John Stricker "I didn’t spend all these years getting to the top of the food chain just to be a vegetarian" Another good reason NOT to carry your logbook:  If you are ramp-checked, the FAA rep can ask to see your log book.  If you don’t have it with you, you can just say so. Unless you’re hiding something, why would you NOT want the FAA guy to look at your logbook? We were ramped a few months ago, and it was a complete non-event.   He looked at the airworthiness certificate, my Private certificate, my medical, and wished us a fond farewell.   It took all of about 90 seconds. If he had asked for my logbook (which lives in the seatback pocket, right along with the POH), he would have been welcome to peruse it as well. You guys gotta stop being so paranoid about these FAA guys — they’re not Nazis, ya know! — Jay Honeck Iowa City, IA Warrior N33431

Response:

Is it appropriate to "back up" your logbook?

Absolutely.  I XEROXed mine.  The FAA is pretty lenient about reconstructing lost logbooks.  A XEROX will do fine.  They’ve let people account for time based on old FBO records and receipts. How about your medical, your license?

I keep these in my wallet.  Lost my wallet once.   Phone the FAA and they will FAX you temporaries.  Getting my Driver’s License replaced was harder (not to mention calling all the credit card companies).

Response:

medical, your license?  What do you do to safeguard your logbook?  If it’s lost of damaged, what does that mean?  Should you Xerox you logbook it once in a while as a backup?  In the event of a logbook disaster, would a photocopy mean anything?

Yep, it would. I keep a copy of my logbook on excel, and also have scans of my logbook. Every few months I burn them into a CD and stick them in the bank safety deposit box. Cheap insurance…… -dave

Response:

What happens if someone steals my flightbag with my logbook? What happens if I drop my logbook in a puddle and all the inked entries run and become unreadable? What happens if my dog eats it? What happens if I just lose the damn thing? All good reasons NOT to carry your logbook. Why would you want to? The only time I take it with me is on vacation – in case I want to rent an airplane.

Another good reason NOT to carry your logbook:  If you are ramp-checked, the FAA rep can ask to see your log book.  If you don’t have it with you, you can just say so. == Do not reply to "from" address.  (Sorry, this is an anti-spam measure.) ==

Response:

What happens if someone steals my flightbag with my logbook? What happens if I drop my logbook in a puddle and all the inked entries run and become unreadable? What happens if my dog eats it? What happens if I just lose the damn thing? All good reasons NOT to carry your logbook. Why would you want to? The only time I take it with me is on vacation – in case I want to rent an airplane. Another good reason NOT to carry your logbook:  If you are ramp-checked, the FAA rep can ask to see your log book.  If you don’t have it with you, you can just say so.

If you DO have it with you, you can likewise say no. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -== Do not reply to "from" address.  (Sorry, this is an anti-spam measure.) ==

Response:

I scan my logbook pages and burn the images onto cdroms as well. More than one cdrom too, copies stored in multiple locations (at home + at office). Each time a fill up a new page in the book, a couple of new cdroms will get created. I plan to copy partial pages to floppies kept with the cdroms (again, redundant copies since a floppy can get zapped too easily). Also  I keep copies of all images on my hard drive on my PC too. My PC stays in a state of perpetual backup. I use a hardware mirroring FastTrak-66 disk drive interface card and have a pair of identical, mirrored disk drives in my pc. Nothing beats having mirrored disks in case one fails. Been there, done that and the cost of the card $75 plus a second 20GB disk $150 is very cheap insurance, besides backing up 20GB of disk contents to tape every night is too much of a hassle. About once a month, all my critical files on the mirrored hard drive pair get copied to cdroms too. DB_Wan_Kenobi – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – your medical, your license?  What do you do to safeguard your logbook?  If it’s lost of damaged, what does that mean?  Should you Xerox you logbook it once in a while as a backup?  In the event of a logbook disaster, would a photocopy mean anything? Yep, it would. I keep a copy of my logbook on excel, and also have scans of my logbook. Every few months I burn them into a CD and stick them in the bank safety deposit box. Cheap insurance…… -dave

Before you buy.

Response:

Organizers make great logbooks. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I usually take my logbook with me when I go flying.  I’m careful with it, but probably not careful enough.  I’ve been thinking…. What happens if someone steals my flightbag with my logbook? What happens if I drop my logbook in a puddle and all the inked entries run and become unreadable? What happens if my dog eats it? What happens if I just lose the damn thing? All good reasons NOT to carry your logbook. Why would you want to? The only time I take it with me is on vacation – in case I want to rent an airplane. Part of the checkout procedure usually involves checking regulatory recency and recent flight experience. ….and in a related question…. When was the last time you backed up your hard drive? Every night. I have a simple batch routine that tales all my data files, zips them up, and dumps them on a zip drive. I also have a computerized logbook, so that I have a "reliable record" in case I need to reconstruct my logbook.    (o)/       Denver, Colorado    o O o       www.midlifeflight.com       email? replace "spamaway" with "mkolber"

Response:

I usually take my logbook with me when I go flying.  I’m careful with it, but probably not careful enough.  I’ve been thinking…. What happens if someone steals my flightbag with my logbook? What happens if I drop my logbook in a puddle and all the inked entries run and become unreadable? What happens if my dog eats it? What happens if I just lose the damn thing?

All good reasons NOT to carry your logbook. Why would you want to? The only time I take it with me is on vacation – in case I want to rent an airplane. Part of the checkout procedure usually involves checking regulatory recency and recent flight experience. ….and in a related question…. When was the last time you backed up your hard drive?

Every night. I have a simple batch routine that tales all my data files, zips them up, and dumps them on a zip drive. I also have a computerized logbook, so that I have a "reliable record" in case I need to reconstruct my logbook.     (o)/       Denver, Colorado     o O o       www.midlifeflight.com       email? replace "spamaway" with "mkolber"

Response:

I recommend the following: 1) Don’t carry your logbook with you unless it’s absolutely necessary. There is no requirement for having your logbook along with you on most flights (unless you’re a Recreational Pilot).  Keep the logbook in a safe place at your home or office. 2) Make copies of any endorsements in the logbook.  i.e. Endorsements recommending you for checkrides and/or written tests.  Endorsements for operation of high performance airplane, complex airplane, tailwheel airplane, etc. This is a "just in case" measure, to protect you from loss of the logbook due to fire, theft, flood, etc.  It’s fairly simple if not easy to reconstruct the flying time in a logbook, but it can sometimes be impossible to replace the endorsements. 3) Use an "electronic logbook" as a backup for your hard copy log.  I have two separate computer logbooks in addition to my actual logbook(s), so if either is lost I can use the other to reconstruct.  NOTE – the computer logbook will not have the endorsements in it that the hard copy does.  See #2.  Another advantage of a computer log is that it’s easily searchable. When you need to know how much time you have in different categories/classes/types or even specific airplanes, a computer logbook can give you that info in seconds and can save you a bunch of hunting around in your paper logbook. 4) Have fun and fly safely! Joe Norris

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I usually take my logbook with me when I go flying.  I’m careful with it, but probably not careful enough.  I’ve been thinking…. What happens if someone steals my flightbag with my logbook? What happens if I drop my logbook in a puddle and all the inked entries run and become unreadable? What happens if my dog eats it? What happens if I just lose the damn thing? ….and in a related question…. When was the last time you backed up your hard drive? Is it appropriate to "back up" your logbook?  How about your medical, your license?  What do you do to safeguard your logbook?  If it’s lost of damaged, what does that mean?  Should you Xerox you logbook it once in a while as a backup?  In the event of a logbook disaster, would a photocopy mean anything? Just curious.  Thanks.

Response:

Question:

    Hi, I have never been in eastern Sierra area, but I am planning to make a photo trip to there soon. Shooting landscape is the major purpose of my trip. My question to you are: (1) ‘What are the top 10 places you think a landscape photographer must visit and shoot?’

Alabama Hills (very hot in summer) Mono Lake Lee Vining Creek Yosemite Hot Creek Use your eyes and you will find plenty. — http://www.fnet.net/~ellis/photo/

Response:

Having just gotten back from there I would add Bodie state park if you like ghost towns. I would also recommend a couple of sites at mono lake 1.  The south toufa (sp?) walk and tour 2.  The panum crater walk and tour. of course you can’t go wrong with anything in Yosemite. Make sure you have a place to stay before you go. btb

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –     Hi, I have never been in eastern Sierra area, but I am planning to make a photo trip to there soon. Shooting landscape is the major purpose of my trip. My question to you are: (1) ‘What are the top 10 places you think a landscape photographer must visit and shoot?’ Alabama Hills (very hot in summer) Mono Lake Lee Vining Creek Yosemite Hot Creek Use your eyes and you will find plenty. — http://www.fnet.net/~ellis/photo/

Response:

(2) Best guide book for photo trip to Eastern Sierra    Any feedback/suggestions are appreciated. Ronald

Take a look at California’s Eastern Sierra, A Vistor’s Guide by Sue Irwin (Cachuma Press). Good photos and info and only $18. Claude

Response:

Ronald, The Eastern Sierra is beautiful any time ofyear or day.  I suggest starting at one end of the Owens Valley and work your way through it, using your imagination.  You will no doubt find some spots of your own that are just as good or better than any that can be recommended. Bob Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com. Up to 100 minutes free! http://www.keen.com

Response:

Come on over to my website and check out my sections on Mono Lake, Rock Creek, and the White Mountains. That will give you some ideas for shooting. I have some commentary there also in the different sections pertaining to those locations. http://www.californiapictures.com It is a good time now to shoot wildflowers in Mammoth Lakes. Go to Reds Meadow early, I mean early or you can’t drive your car. They will make you ride the trams after 6:30AM. They are trying to keep the traffic out. Dale Proctor * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

Everyone has talked about Mono Lake, personally I haven’t been there, been close.  That is on a list of to-go places, however, I’ve been to Bodie which is a ghost town.  I think it is one of the nicest ghost towns that I’ve been to and would recommend it to others. Would need to gage your timing for lighting, etc. * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is Beautiful

Response:

Hi, Mono Lake is, without question, unique. But there are many other places of charm and beauty. On the web, start at http://www.395.com  This will give you links to about every place you’ll want to visit. It all depends on your tastes of course. In the Mammoth Lakes area, there are many opportunities to shoot wild flowers. Also consider Devil’s Postpile and Rainbow falls. The lakes basin is also nice with long and short hikes of various degrees of difficulty. The Mammoth Ranger Station can be very helpful! South of Mammoth Lakes you will find Convict Lake (morning shot), Hot Creek geo-thermal area (and fly fishing), McGee creek, and Little Lakes Valley. Little Lakes Valley is a very nice walk, spectacular at times, and not too strenuous, despite the high elevation. North of Mammoth is Lundy Canyon, fantastic in the fall.  The June Lake loop is another possibiliby, just south of Lee Vining. Lee Vining is, of course, where you will find Mono Lake as well as the eastern entrance to Yosemite via Tioga Pass. This is a fantastic road, an engineering feat (and perfectly safe), with grand vistas to the east. Tuolomne Meadows, just a few miles inside the park will give you a taste of granit domes. Before the park entrace is a road to the right (north) that takes you to Saddle Bag Lake. North of Lee Vining, about 5 mi before you get to Bridgeport, is the turn off to Bodie. Great pictures here! But watch the sun. The park is open from 9:00 am to 7:00 pm in the summer. You can shoot in August until about 10:30 am and then again after about 3:30. When the sun is low you get wonderful colors in the wooden buildings. When the sun is high, you can try to take some interiors through windows. Shooting anywhere in the Eastern Sierra generally requires a polarizer (but be careful; if you polarize to strongly the sky will turn almost black). Also, because of the altitude and thin atmosphere there is a lot of blue coming through. A 81A or 81B (better) will give you truer colors. One last tip. Watch the dust! A lot of it is pumice and it can scratch your glass. (Actually pumice is the foam form of the black obsidion, which is  volcanic glass.)  If you are interested, I have a section on Bodie on my webpage with links to other sites. (I’m in the process of re-doing the sections on Sierra Wild Flowers and the Eastern Sierra.)  http://toms_place_2.tripod.com Enjoy your trip! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –      Hi, I have never been in eastern Sierra area, but I am planning to make a photo trip to there soon. Shooting landscape is the major purpose of my trip. My question to you are: (1) ‘What are the top 10 places you think a landscape photographer must visit and shoot?’ (2) Best guide book for photo trip to Eastern Sierra     Any feedback/suggestions are appreciated. Ronald

Response:

     Hi, I have never been in eastern Sierra area, but I am planning to make a photo trip to there soon. Shooting landscape is the major purpose of my trip. My question to you are: (1) ‘What are the top 10 places you think a landscape photographer must visit and shoot?’ (2) Best guide book for photo trip to Eastern Sierra     Any feedback/suggestions are appreciated. Ronald

  shourong.shu.vcf

< 1K Download

Response:

Mono LAke. If it is no #1 then it is #2 or 3. Shoot at sunrise. GO th day before to scope out the area then come back for sunrise. With a little luch you will have clouds inte western sky andit will explode with color. Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com. Up to 100 minutes free! http://www.keen.com

Response:

     Hi, I have never been in eastern Sierra area, but I am planning to make a photo trip to there soon. Shooting landscape is the major purpose of my trip. My question to you are: (1) ‘What are the top 10 places you think a landscape photographer must visit and shoot?’

Besides putting Mono Lake at the top of the list, here are some ideas in no particular order: – Mono Lake   See my "East of the Sierra" web gallery for some images from Mono Lake   (http://www.designsinlight.com/gallery.htm) – Alambama Hills   Near Lone Pine and Mt. Whitney, and where many westerns were shot. – White & Inyo Mountains – Bristlecone Pine forest   Some of the oldest living things in the world (4000+ years) and very cool looking   Some info: http://www.sonic.net/bristlecone/WhiteMts.html – Bodie ghost town – June Lake One meteorlogical feature to keep an eye out for is lenticular clouds. They form where there is a strong, steady wind blowing over mountains, in places like Owens Valley east of the Sierra Nevada. They can make for some spectacular skies, especially at sunrise or sunset. Have fun! It’s a beautiful part of the world. gene — Gene Anderson http://www.designsinlight.com/

Response:

Question:

0] : Vision is very important in flyfishing. : …. : I wear "progressive" bifocals for everyday getting around, but at 8", my : knot-tying distance, I can see best with no glasses at all. That’s why I : find it most convenvient to wear single-prescription (not bifocal) : glasses for fishing. They’re securely fastened around my head with a : strap. I just drop them to my chest to tie knots or extract hooks from fish. : I wear contact lenses for one and only one activity — playing tennis. : They’re just perfect for that, but they’d be awful for fishing. I can’t : see close-up with contacts, so I’d have to wear an "extra strong" pair : of reading glasses for close work. That means I’d need (1) contact : lenses, (2) nonprescription sunglasses, and (3) extra-strong reading : glasses. Why bother? : — rw to be ornery, I’ll disagree with you. I wear contacts for about -4 diopter nearsightedness and am in my 50’s, so I have about the same problem as you. I prefer the hard contacts because they pretty much take out some considerable astigmatism I would otherwise have. My solution is to use your items (2) and (3) combined in one package which is sold as "Fisherman’s Bifocals"–polarized window glass on top and clear +3 diopter magnifiers in the bottom. Which brings up a point, that for knot tying, hook threading etc., what’s needed is considerably more magnification than is wanted for comfortable reading, in my case about +2. Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories  (remove x’s from email if not      Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971   a spammer) Phone: (650)-857-5491              

Response:

I wear contact lenses for one and only one activity — playing tennis. They’re just perfect for that, but they’d be awful for fishing. I can’t see close-up with contacts, so I’d have to wear an "extra strong" pair of reading glasses for close work. That means I’d need (1) contact lenses, (2) nonprescription sunglasses, and (3) extra-strong reading glasses. Why bother?

        hell fire, i am in complete accord.  before i’d go through all that song and dance just to tie on an adams, i’d just go back to the cabin, drink about half a fifth of absolut, and forget about the fishin. wayno

Response:

Tripper: Exactly my situation.  I just ordered my first pair of bifocals last week, but ordered my new polarized sunglasses in single vision.  I have a flip focal on my hat that works great for knot tying.  Before I got it I was always having to take off my lenses to tie knots and last season I had to clean the bottom-of-the-canoe gunk from them a few times (fortunately never dropped them in a stream yet). I don’t bother flipping the flip-focals though – I find they are too distracting to have on a brim in the flipped-up state, and since I use a wide brimmed hat, not a baseball type hat, I just have them pinned on the back brim and rotate the whole hat when I need the magnifiers. I get a lot of curious looks from people who wonder why I have lenses on the back of my hat. –Stan – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My solution: a pair of wide-field prescription polaroids (glass) and a pair of those flip-down magnifiers that clip onto my hat bill.

Response:

My solution: a pair of wide-field prescription polaroids (glass) and a pair of those flip-down magnifiers that clip onto my hat bill. Effective, cheap, and low risk.

With my prescription, the lenses would be an inch thick at the edges of ‘wide-field’ glasses. — Charlie…

Response:

aw heck, you fellas with bad eyesight obviously haven’t heard of the pj prescription. pj’s eyesight for tying a knot is abysmal, or so he claims…so, whoever happens to be "lucky" enough to fish with him is conscripted to tie on his flies.  I’ve witnessed Peter Charles submit to the pj selective service on Snowbird Creek, even tied on a dropper as i recall…ain’t no more powerful prescription out there. jeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I can’t see close-up with contacts, so I’d have to wear an "extra strong" pair of reading glasses for close work. That means I’d need (1) contact lenses, (2) nonprescription sunglasses, and (3) extra-strong reading glasses. Why bother? That’s basically what I use and, to me, it’s worth the bother just for the additional peripheral vision. I can read ‘normal’ sized print without reading glasses, but that’s right at my limit. I’ve been wearing glasses since third grade (44 years) and I plain do *not* like bifocals, especially for climbing over/under things and wading. I guess it’s just a matter of what you consider the bother is; to me distorted peripheral vision is more of a bother than an extra pair of glasses. Well, here’s a third take. I’ve been nearsighted enough to need glasses to drive since high school. And now that I’m almost half as old as Louie ;^) I’m starting to have trouble threading flies (I can read books without trouble – just can’t find the damned eye with the tippet without a struggle). And I won’t risk my eyes to any potential  injury/infection/whatever by using contact lenses. My solution: a pair of wide-field prescription polaroids (glass) and a pair of those flip-down magnifiers that clip onto my hat bill. Effective, cheap, and low risk. /daytripper

Response:

My solution: a pair of wide-field prescription polaroids (glass) and a pair of those flip-down magnifiers that clip onto my hat bill. Effective, cheap, and low risk.

        plus, having spent a full day with you on hazel creek,  i can testify that they do a helluva job as a stand-in for a groucho disguise. wayno

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, here’s a third take. I’ve been nearsighted enough to need glasses to drive since high school. And now that I’m almost half as old as Louie ;^) I’m starting to have trouble threading flies (I can read books without trouble – just can’t find the damned eye with the tippet without a struggle). And I won’t risk my eyes to any potential  injury/infection/whatever by using contact lenses. My solution: a pair of wide-field prescription polaroids (glass) and a pair of those flip-down magnifiers that clip onto my hat bill. Effective, cheap, and low risk. /daytripper

Yep.  That’s exactly what I use.  Sometimes, I interpose Orvis sunglasses with the built-in magnifiers but contacts I will never use. All of my hats have a flip down magnifier attached. Tom — Tom Brown The Signal Group Wake Forest, NC HEATHEN, n. A benighted creature who has the folly to worship something that he can see and feel.                – Ambrose Bierce: The Devil’s Dictionary

Response:

My solution: a pair of wide-field prescription polaroids (glass) and a pair of those flip-down magnifiers that clip onto my hat bill. Effective, cheap, and low risk.    plus, having spent a full day with you on hazel creek,  i can testify that they do a helluva job as a stand-in for a groucho disguise.

Hell, with my beak, ’stache, and dark eyebrows,  I *am* Groucho! /daytripper ("Say the secret word and I’ll kick your Roe-Ann County arse!" ;^)

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I can’t see close-up with contacts, so I’d have to wear an "extra strong" pair of reading glasses for close work. That means I’d need (1) contact lenses, (2) nonprescription sunglasses, and (3) extra-strong reading glasses. Why bother? That’s basically what I use and, to me, it’s worth the bother just for the additional peripheral vision. I can read ‘normal’ sized print without reading glasses, but that’s right at my limit. I’ve been wearing glasses since third grade (44 years) and I plain do *not* like bifocals, especially for climbing over/under things and wading. I guess it’s just a matter of what you consider the bother is; to me distorted peripheral vision is more of a bother than an extra pair of glasses.

Well, here’s a third take. I’ve been nearsighted enough to need glasses to drive since high school. And now that I’m almost half as old as Louie ;^) I’m starting to have trouble threading flies (I can read books without trouble – just can’t find the damned eye with the tippet without a struggle). And I won’t risk my eyes to any potential  injury/infection/whatever by using contact lenses. My solution: a pair of wide-field prescription polaroids (glass) and a pair of those flip-down magnifiers that clip onto my hat bill. Effective, cheap, and low risk. /daytripper

Response:

I can’t see close-up with contacts, so I’d have to wear an "extra strong" pair of reading glasses for close work. That means I’d need (1) contact lenses, (2) nonprescription sunglasses, and (3) extra-strong reading glasses. Why bother?

That’s basically what I use and, to me, it’s worth the bother just for the additional peripheral vision. I can read ‘normal’ sized print without reading glasses, but that’s right at my limit. I’ve been wearing glasses since third grade (44 years) and I plain do *not* like bifocals, especially for climbing over/under things and wading. I guess it’s just a matter of what you consider the bother is; to me distorted peripheral vision is more of a bother than an extra pair of glasses. — Charlie…

Response:

Vision is very important in flyfishing. The flyfisherman not only has to see tiny flies far away in sometimes turbulent water against the glare of the sun, but he has to thread spiderweb-like tippets through the eyes of those tiny flies, and then tie intricate knots. It’s pretty hard for people with impaired vision to cope with the demands of flyfishing, especially as we get older. People who are nearsighted can’t see things far away; people who are farsighted can’t see things close up. If you’re nearsighted you need a negative correction; if you’re far sighted you need a positive correction. Nearsightedness often starts at an early age (4th grade for me), but nearly everyone becomes farsighted with advancing age, as the lenses loses flexibility and the means to change focal length, so nearsighted people eventually need bifocals. I wear "progressive" bifocals for everyday getting around, but at 8", my knot-tying distance, I can see best with no glasses at all. That’s why I find it most convenvient to wear single-prescription (not bifocal) glasses for fishing. They’re securely fastened around my head with a strap. I just drop them to my chest to tie knots or extract hooks from fish. I wear contact lenses for one and only one activity — playing tennis. They’re just perfect for that, but they’d be awful for fishing. I can’t see close-up with contacts, so I’d have to wear an "extra strong" pair of reading glasses for close work. That means I’d need (1) contact lenses, (2) nonprescription sunglasses, and (3) extra-strong reading glasses. Why bother? — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Question:

Reader Pete Tampone shows off a beauty taken on a fly rod in California and shares some info on himself. Check him out at our photo site. Nice catch Pete. I love to fly fish, mostly for pan fish here because of the weed cover but I did take a 9 1/2 pounder in one of the canals a few years back. Boy you are right, they can sure burn up a fly reel. — Good Fishing – Moe Moe’s Guide Service (Lake Okeechobee) – http://members.aol.com/moefran/index.html To view or post newsgroup ROBF Photos http://members.aol.com/recbass/robf_index.html

Response:

Thanks for the post, Moe. Peter T

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Reader Pete Tampone shows off a beauty taken on a fly rod in California and shares some info on himself. Check him out at our photo site. Nice catch Pete. I love to fly fish, mostly for pan fish here because of the weed cover but I did take a 9 1/2 pounder in one of the canals a few years back. Boy you are right, they can sure burn up a fly reel. — Good Fishing – Moe Moe’s Guide Service (Lake Okeechobee) – http://members.aol.com/moefran/index.html To view or post newsgroup ROBF Photos http://members.aol.com/recbass/robf_index.html

Response:

Question:

Awhile ago I posted a question about using horses for flyfishing (for riding to the spots, not for materials), and got some helpful replies. Well, I’m gonna do it. I found a place to pasture a horse about five miles from Stanley, for $35 a month! I can’t imagine what it would cost me to keep a horse in Menlo Park, CA. It would be a choice between that and sending my kids to college. It’s a beautiful pasture on 40 acres owned by a crusty oldimer who used to live in my cabin way back when. I think he’ll show this greenhorn the ropes. His place is right at the foot of the Sawtooths, next to some beautiful country with high lakes. I’ve found I’m too old to hump my gear up to the high country. I figure $2000 or so for a good horse (I’ll start with one, then maybe get another), $1000 for a trailer, $500 or so for tack, and pocket change for shots, shoeing, and whatnot, and I’m in business. I just don’t know if I can wait for next spring. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

RW, EEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAWWWWWW   HEE HEEEE HAW!!!!!!   HHOOOOOOOOOOOOO As the "bank" side of a four horse stable for my daughter I got a tremendous laugh out of your post!! Thanks for the moments of "unbridled" (to make a poor horse pun) laughter – horse laughter even. You have made my day brighter! The down side is that if you think   " I figure $2000 or so for a good horse (I’ll start with one, then maybe get another), $1000 for a trailer, $500 or so for tack, and pocket change for shots, shoeing, and whatnot, and I’m in business. I just don’t know if I can wait for next spring. " is a realistic budget for

messin’ with horses you got "anuther think" coming. They can get pretty expensive – and I didn’t see any mention of YOUR medical bills Best of luck, but it sounds like someone offered to "git chew inna horse bidness right". GB

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Awhile ago I posted a question about using horses for flyfishing (for riding to the spots, not for materials), and got some helpful replies. Well, I’m gonna do it. I found a place to pasture a horse about five miles from Stanley, for $35 a month! I can’t imagine what it would cost me to keep a horse in Menlo Park, CA. It would be a choice between that and sending my kids to college. It’s a beautiful pasture on 40 acres owned by a crusty oldimer who used to live in my cabin way back when. I think he’ll show this greenhorn the ropes. His place is right at the foot of the Sawtooths, next to some beautiful country with high lakes. I’ve found I’m too old to hump my gear up to the high country. I figure $2000 or so for a good horse (I’ll start with one, then maybe get another), $1000 for a trailer, $500 or so for tack, and pocket change for shots, shoeing, and whatnot, and I’m in business. I just don’t know if I can wait for next spring. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Care to post some useful information?  Not that I don’t appreciate your solid-caps onomatopoetic laughter, but if you think rw has his numbers way off, how about telling him why instead of making fun of him.  I have more than a little horse experience myself and those numbers sound pretty close to me. Do you take yours to a hairdresser or what?

Doesn’t everybody take their horse to the hairdresser and get it manicured?!?! You must not have cared for your horse if you didn’t call the vet everytime it farted, coughed or sneezed because those are signs of serious illness! Especially the farting "Doc, I just don’t know what to do.  My horse keeps breaking wind even at a standstill!" On a serious note, I would look to spend a little more than $1000 for a trailer and $500 for tack.  Make sure to check the floor of the trailer.  Not a good idea to buy a trailer then have to fix it.  And make sure to actually sit in the saddle and make sure it is comfortable (preferably on the intended horse). When I say comfortable I mean for the horse AND you.   Just some suggestions. Besides, what’s the worst that can happen?  Find out it isn’t going to work out and then sell everything? Warren

Response:

Doesn’t everybody take their horse to the hairdresser and get it manicured?!?! You must not have cared for your horse if you didn’t call the vet everytime it farted, coughed or sneezed because those are signs of serious illness! Especially the farting "Doc, I just don’t know what to do.  My horse keeps breaking wind even at a standstill!" On a serious note, I would look to spend a little more than $1000 for a trailer and $500 for tack.  

Probably right. When I actually start buying things I tend to spend far more than my minimum estimates because I’d rather have nice things, as long as I get value for my money. Of course, I’ll have to reserve a few thousand for hairdressing and manicures. On a side note, lots of people ride Harley Davidson motorcycles around here. I’ve had a few bikes and I’ve always wanted a Harley, so I was musing about getting one. Then I thought about the comparatively low cost of a horse and how many more hours of enjoyment I’d get out of it, and there was no contest. Probably after I get the horse I’ll start thinking about Harleys again. Make sure to check the floor of the trailer.  Not a good idea to buy a trailer then have to fix it.  And make sure to actually sit in the saddle and make sure it is comfortable (preferably on the intended horse). When I say comfortable I mean for the horse AND you.   Just some suggestions.

Thanks for the helpful suggestions, WFin66. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

RW, Write back in a few years. By then you will have been educated. Without the experiential wisdom you are just speculating. Good luck with your horse scheme, but my point is that you WILL need to budget more than "pocket change" for the expenses you mentioned. Glen

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – To all – I couldn’t help myself… I hope RW dosen’t take it as a flame – wasn’t meant that way. On the other hand, when he mentioned those "pocket change" items – maybe he has BIG POCKETS and LOTS OF CHANGE!! $2000 for a horse and $1000 for a trailer. Do you expect shots, shoeing, and so on to be significant compared to that? Perhaps unlike your daughters, I’m not real sentimental about animals (except for my Golden Retriever). If I were looking at a bottomless pit of medical expenses for an animal I’d cut my losses. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

RW, Write back in a few years. By then you will have been educated. Without the experiential wisdom you are just speculating. Good luck with your horse scheme, but my point is that you WILL need to budget more than "pocket change" for the expenses you mentioned. Glen

I’ll do that. The "pocket change" phrase was hyberbole. BTW, I’m not merely speculating. Like everything I do that requires significant outlays of cash, I’ve been looking into it pretty carefully. I’ve long wanted a horse or two, but having them at my California residence would be an absurd waste of money — something for billionares in Woodside. Here in Idaho it looks like a bargain, plus I’d be pasturing them right next to some great country. Most enjoyable things require some money (at least, the things I enjoy), but I’m no sucker, which you implied I was, and which frankly pissed me off. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Gee RW, as I mentioned before, my comments were NOT made to, as you say it "piss you off", but I DID find a GREAT deal of humor in your original thesis. This message sounds much more rational, as though you are now considering the big picture. I too enjoy the horses. I have liked them for years and only bought some in the past few years. We were terribly naive when we got started (we actually thought ONE bale of hay was significant!! – now we buy *hundreds* of bales in one trip). No, we do not go to the horseyhairdresser, but we DO take VERY good care of ALL our animals. Perhaps I was too flip in my original response to the group. I truly would not want to see anyone have a bad horse experience and it sounded like that is where you were headed. So sorry I hurt your feelings! Glen

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – RW, Write back in a few years. By then you will have been educated. Without the experiential wisdom you are just speculating. Good luck with your horse scheme, but my point is that you WILL need to budget more than "pocket change" for the expenses you mentioned. Glen I’ll do that. The "pocket change" phrase was hyberbole. BTW, I’m not merely speculating. Like everything I do that requires significant outlays of cash, I’ve been looking into it pretty carefully. I’ve long wanted a horse or two, but having them at my California residence would be an absurd waste of money — something for billionares in Woodside. Here in Idaho it looks like a bargain, plus I’d be pasturing them right next to some great country. Most enjoyable things require some money (at least, the things I enjoy), but I’m no sucker, which you implied I was, and which frankly pissed me off. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Perhaps I was too flip in my original response to the group. <

Pretty hard to be *too* flip!  <g

Response:

RW, EEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAWWWWWW   HEE HEEEE HAW!!!!!!   HHOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Care to post some useful information?  Not that I don’t appreciate your solid-caps onomatopoetic laughter, but if you think rw has his numbers way off, how about telling him why instead of making fun of him.  I have more than a little horse experience myself and those numbers sound pretty close to me.  Do you take yours to a hairdresser or what? — Levi I have been through some terrible things in my life – some of which actually happened.  –Mark Twain

Response:

RW, EEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAWWWWWW   HEE HEEEE HAW!!!!!!   HHOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Hey! Attributions are in order – lest you be accused of plagiarizing the best line that Chill Wills ever delivered… /daytripper (lessee who remembers…)

Response:

RW, EEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAWWWWWW   HEE HEEEE HAW!!!!!!   HHOOOOOOOOOOOOO Care to post some useful information?  Not that I don’t appreciate your solid-caps onomatopoetic laughter, but if you think rw has his numbers way off, how about telling him why instead of making fun of him.  I have more than a little horse experience myself and those numbers sound pretty close to me.  Do you take yours to a hairdresser or what?

Ha! Good one, Levi. I can just picture his daughters’ horses with little ribbon curliques in their manes. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

To all – I couldn’t help myself… I hope RW dosen’t take it as a flame – wasn’t meant that way. On the other hand, when he mentioned those "pocket change" items – maybe he has BIG POCKETS and LOTS OF CHANGE!!

$2000 for a horse and $1000 for a trailer. Do you expect shots, shoeing, and so on to be significant compared to that? Perhaps unlike your daughters, I’m not real sentimental about animals (except for my Golden Retriever). If I were looking at a bottomless pit of medical expenses for an animal I’d cut my losses. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

The immortal "Dr. Strangelove", of course. That was Slim Pickins. My favorite Chill Wills movie was probably "The Rounders" (unless you count the "Over the Hill Gang" TV stuff, that was great).

On the other hand, Slim Pickens DID deliver that line in a most artful fashion in Dr. Strangelove and in one of the most memorable scenes in movie history. Wolfgang (Whose practice in ducking and covering still serves him well to this day)

Response:

Question:

I have a close friend stationed in Okinawa.  I was wondering if the group could point me in the direction of cheap flights to there.  Also, what are some touristy things I can do while there, I plan on being there for about a week.  Please post or e-mail privately Thanks for your help. WILLZZ….

Response:

I have a close friend stationed in Okinawa.  I was wondering if the group could point me in the direction of cheap flights to there.  Also, what are some touristy things I can do while there, I plan on being there for about a week.  Please post or e-mail privately Thanks for your help. How can we possibly give you advice on cheap fares if we do not know where you lve!!!! The whole world is reading this Newsgroup. Do you live in Amsterdam, the Netherlands? Then I can give you some rates. Giny, Tozai Travel, Amsterdam

Response:

I have a close friend stationed in Okinawa.  I was wondering if the group could point me in the direction of cheap flights to there.  Also, what are some touristy things I can do while there, I plan on being there for about a week.  Please post or e-mail privately Thanks for your help.

There’s not a great deal to see on Okinawa Island, but the major tourist sight is Shuri Castle in Naha (the capital city). It’s reconstructed, but very well done. There’s also a big market (Ichiba) in Naha and, nearby, an interesting area of potters’ workshops (Tsuboya district). After that, most people take a tour round the WWII battle sights in the south of the island. For example the Underground Navy Headquarters – where you go down into the tunnels and there’s a small museum. Heading northwards, Ryukyu Mura is a reasonably interesting "culture village", and then there are the beaches such as Moon Beach and Tiger Beach. With your own transport, I’d recommend the far north, where you find some more traditional fishing villages, and more mountains. There are a couple of castle ruins to visit, too. But, if the weather’s good and you have time, the best of Okinawa is really the outer islands. The Kerama islands are quite close by – a ferry ride from Naha – but the most beautiful are the southern islands such as Miyako-jima, Ishigaki-jima and Iriomote-jima. As you’ve only got a week, I think you’ld need to pick just one of these and fly from Naha. Author, The Rough Guides to Vietnam and Japan http://www.roughguides.com

Response:

There a lot of nice place to vsit while in Okinawa.   I recommend to visit some, Shuri Castle (in Naha), Himeyuri Park (cactus park, in Naha), Gyukusendo Cave(Naha), Okinawa Zoo(Kodomo no kuni) close to Gate 2 of Kadena Air Base,  Wine Factory (in Nago), Yambaru (Park for dfferent kinds of birds, Nago),  Ryukyu Mura (old Okinawan Village, close to Torrii Station),  Okinawa Memorial Park (Nago).  Navy Underground Headquarter.  If you like to play Golf, theres a lot of driving range, and Golf Course.  Try to go to some of this places, I’m sure you gonna have a goodtime. And at night you can try to go to Big Echo(Karaoke Bar). Pyramid (for Disco). HAVE FUN…

Response:

Question:

Have I used a slinky? Well no. As an aside, you might try asking Mr G this question…especially if (like me) you’re the type of guy who just can’t resist pouring gasoline on a fire. The ensuing eruption might be fun to watch. I have fly-fished with a similar rig: marshmallow nymphs (ala Fly Tyer’s Bench, Fly Fisherman 199?). Marshmallow nymphs are dynamite. They are soft-bodied modular nymph bodies made from open-cell foam, covered with a fine nylon netting. The open-cell nymph body soaks up enough water to (almost) reach neutral bouyancy. So, if you put a split shot 12-18" up the leader, you have no trouble sinking the fly. But because of a small residual, bouyancy caused by lingering air bubbles in the foam, a marshmallow nymph does float casually upward from the split shot. In other words, you can fish a marshmallow nymph right off the bottom, but it still has a weightless quality that allows it to move naturally, slowly, softly in the water. ….best goddam stonefly nymphs there are. — /* Sandy Pittendrigh                  –oO0  * http://www.nervana.montana.edu/~sandy  */

Response:

Sorry if I missed it, but where can we find "marshmallow nymphs?" (Or better yet, the materials to make them?) Thanks, Scott

Response:

Why use  a slinkie for flyfishing?  I’ve used lots of  weighted (artificial lead wound) wooly buggers, which cast fairly well, get down well, and are very effective for steelhead.  Of course you can vary the weight when tying.  I use these for summer steelhead fishing mostly, since the water is often too fast and deep in Northwest rivers to adequately sink the fly during the winter.

Response:

    Slinkies are indeed a part of spinning or bait casting tackle, not at all to be confused with fly fishing. Remember (as if any of you need reminding), fly casting throws/casts the line, not the lure; bait or spin casting throws/casts the terminal rig. Since slinkies are part of the terminal rig, they are, by definition, bait/spin casting gear.     Mono alone doesn’t cast well, and a fly doesn’t cast well on mono. They are totally different fishing methods (sometimes philosophies), and anyone who tells you he/she is fly fishing while they tie on a slinkie is only kidding themselves. Fishing with flies and a fly rod doesn’t necessarily mean you are fly fishing.You have to be casting your line not your sinker.     I fish with  yarn flies(almost exclusively) for steelies. I alternate between a Loomis 1084 drift rod and a Fenwick IronFeather 9 wgt. I’m not a fly fisherman, it’s just that this combination of gear has worked for me. Everything I use is fly fishing gear, including my Systems2, except my line. All mono. I have all the lines and leaders and krap that fly fishing entails, but for steelhead fishing, the simplicity that mono provides cant be beat. And slinkies aren’t part of my arsenal. Al – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It seems to me that the rig would be easier and more effective using a spinning or bait casting rig. If you want to fish that much weight, a fly rod is not a great cgoice. A similar rig is popular on some of Wyomings big rivers but it is used by spin fishermen. Willi

Response:

On the Salmon River in NY, slinkies have become quite popular for those fishing for salmon & steelhead.   Because the river is chock full of snags of one sort or another, it is frustratingly common to lose your rig.   As often as not, it is the split shot that hangs up; and the flexibility and shape of slinkies seems to reduce this annoying problem.   Up there however, they are made up of 3 or more very large split shot, any one of which could cause a serious head injury. They are used predominantly by spin fishermen and snaggers who dredge the bottom with 30 lb. mono.   Some find that the sensitivity of a fly rod helps them detect strikes, and use these chuck and duck rigs with fly rods. These fishermen use fly rods simply to lob the weights and a fly without ever really casting their line or having the slightest concept or ability to actually fly fish.   Most unfortunately, this is legally considered fly fishing; and these rigs are allowed in the fly fishing only stretches of the river. Sadly, this crap isn’t even necessary.   I have never used one.   The most weight I’ve ever added has been three BB sized split shot.   By casting upstream and mending properly, that’s been more than enough in even the fastest and deepest water.   And no, the spinning guys do not get more hookups; quite the opposite.   With less weight, the strikes are more easily detected. I would support a legal definition of fly fishing that requires that the fly be propelled only by the weight of the line and limiting the allowable amount of added weight.   Whatever everybody wants to do to dredge the river elsewhere is beyond my control, but it ain’t fly fishing and shouldn’t be allowed in fly fishing only areas. Joe

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -On the Salmon River in NY, slinkies have become quite popular for those fishing for salmon & steelhead.   Because the river is chock full of snags of one sort or another, it is frustratingly common to lose your rig.   As often as not, it is the split shot that hangs up; and the flexibility and shape of slinkies seems to reduce this annoying problem.   Up there however, they are made up of 3 or more very large split shot, any one of which could cause a serious head injury. They are used predominantly by spin fishermen and snaggers who dredge the bottom with 30 lb. mono.   Some find that the sensitivity of a fly rod helps them detect strikes, and use these chuck and duck rigs with fly rods. These fishermen use fly rods simply to lob the weights and a fly without ever really casting their line or having the slightest concept or ability to actually fly fish.   Most unfortunately, this is legally considered fly fishing; and these rigs are allowed in the fly fishing only stretches of the river. Sadly, this crap isn’t even necessary.   I have never used one.   The most weight I’ve ever added has been three BB sized split shot.   By casting upstream and mending properly, that’s been more than enough in even the fastest and deepest water.   And no, the spinning guys do not get more hookups; quite the opposite.   With less weight, the strikes are more easily detected. I would support a legal definition of fly fishing that requires that the fly be propelled only by the weight of the line and limiting the allowable amount of added weight.   Whatever everybody wants to do to dredge the river elsewhere is beyond my control, but it ain’t fly fishing and shouldn’t be allowed in fly fishing only areas. Joe

Hey Joe,  I hear ya!! I fish the Salmon River Quite often and find what most fishermen consider fly-fishing in the fly zone ludicrous. I admit that some sort of weight system is needed on the River( Sink tip, split shot??), but the slinky rig is not fly-fishing.  The snags are occuring because of the mass of weight on the leader.  Minimum flow are keeping the river down.  This whole season I didn’t ever add much weight and I am having one of the best years in a while.   It is fast becoming a lost art to actually stategically wade,  cast a fly-line,  mend the line,  and  control the drift through areas suspected to hold Steelhead.  I seldom fish the fly zone.  It is crowded with weight chucking slinky-ites dredging the bottom and foul hooking fish.  I don’t understand how a take can be detected with that rig.  Keep on casting!!  Matt C.  

Response:

It seems to me that the rig would be easier and more effective using a spinning or bait casting rig. If you want to fish that much weight, a fly rod is not a great cgoice. A similar rig is popular on some of Wyomings big rivers but it is used by spin fishermen. Of course, "they’re a fun and a wonderful toy". I missed the original post, what’s a Slinkie in fishing.      - Ken

common drift fishing (gear fishing) weight used by drift fishermen in the northwest.  used by so-called flyfishermen in the great lakes and some in the northwest.  a parachute cord filled with lead shot as burned at both ends to seal it.  hooked to a swivel (since when has using a swivel been part of flyfishing tackle?). sorry guys, i don’t think slinky fishing is flyfishing.  i have nothing against people using the rig, but calling it flyfishing bugs me.  the whole setup uses a level line, so one is actually just flipping, not casting the line like normal flyfishing. flyfishing for steelhead is by itself taking a more difficult way to catch these fish and putting restraints on ourselves because of our tackle choice.  you can catch plenty of steelhead without using slinkies, especially in the northwest. chris

Response:

It seems to me that the rig would be easier and more effective using a spinning or bait casting rig. If you want to fish that much weight, a fly rod is not a great cgoice. A similar rig is popular on some of Wyomings big rivers but it is used by spin fishermen.

Of course, "they’re a fun and a wonderful toy". I missed the original post, what’s a Slinkie in fishing.      - Ken — "It suddenly struck me that that tiny pea, pretty and blue, was the Earth. I  put up my thumb and shut one eye, and my thumb blotted out the planet Earth.  I didn’t feel like a giant. I felt very, very small."                         -Neil Armstrong

Response:

It seems to me that the rig would be easier and more effective using a spinning or bait casting rig. If you want to fish that much weight, a fly rod is not a great cgoice. A similar rig is popular on some of Wyomings big rivers but it is used by spin fishermen. Willi

Response:

Question:

I would like some information on how is the Chum salmon fishing in Hoodsport Washington. Do you have any tips. Is there any worth wile fishing nearby? I will be flyfishing on Oct. 28 & 29 . We may use our float tubes.

Response:

Yes they are running now.  If you do any good please tell.  Friends say green corkies + yarn work on them, and you can use your tube near the hatchery.  Cheers Paul.

Response:

I would like some information on how is the Chum salmon fishing in Hoodsport Washington. Do you have any tips. Is there any worth wile fishing nearby? I will be flyfishing on Oct. 28 & 29 . We may use our float tubes.

 Yes, chartreuse is the way to go.  I usually don’t fish Hoodsport, but I fish the rivers out that way <Satsop, Chehalis, Wynochee, Humptulips, etc. And I’ve been fishing them for last 15 years, and Green has always been the way to go.  Since you’ll be flyfishing, the green corky and chartreuse yarn is outta the question, just use about a long fly hook around size 2 to 4 that is tied with green, with usually a black tail and most use heavier silver bead eyes for attraction and weight.  I tie up some like that, and use the corky/yarn when I’m using my casting rods.  GOOD LUCK and I know the chum are running!

Response:

Question:

Does anyone have any experiance with them? I am in the process of building a Thomas and Thomas 8wt 3 piece and I was thinking about what guides to use. You say T&T doesnt make those blanks? Yeah I know, but a buddy of mine pulled a few strings and it is going to be a special item. Anyway, I need some advice on the Titanium Nitride guides, are they worth the money? Are the a pain in the ass the put on? Any problems? Thanks….. -Mike

Response:

Does anyone have any experiance with them? I am in the process of building a Thomas and Thomas 8wt 3 piece and I was thinking about what guides to use. You say T&T doesnt make those blanks? Yeah I know, but a buddy of mine pulled a few strings and it is going to be a special item. Anyway, I need some advice on the Titanium Nitride guides, are they worth the money? Are the a pain in the ass the put on? Any problems? Thanks….. -Mike

I put a set of PacBay TN guides on an 8 weight I built on a Powell blank. Aesthetically very nice, the the finish is now wearing off the tip (after 4 yrs.). I can’t really tell you I noticed a big performance difference, not like going from snake guides to single foot SICs. They are more corrosion resistant, though IMO if you clean your rod properly this shouldn’t be a huge deal. They go on the same as any guide :- I think if I were to build myself a real top of the line designer rod I’d use TN guides as well a TN reelseat (Clemens and Orvis have them) because I think they look pretty slick. There are many brands of TN guides now, you want to check as many as possible. The cheaper ones may wear off faster. I believe one of the saltwater ff mags had a review on titanium components a few months ago. I’ll try to find it tonite…                                                 jc

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   any experiance with them? I am in the process of  building a Thomas and Thomas 8wt 3 piece and I was thinking about what  guides to use.  Anyway, I need some advice on the Titanium Nitride guides, are they worth  the money? Are the a pain in the ass the put on? Any problems?  Thanks…..  -Mike  Hi  If your design includes gold hardware; reelseat, guides, tiptop, etc.  you’ll get a beauty of a rod. I use T/N stuff on my rods and notice  appreciative stares from others.  Haven’t got any bad news about ‘em either. – six years later.  –  Thanks,  J.P.Erwin – System Tech – Network Surveilance  Views expressed here are MINE – nobody else dares to open their yap!

Hello Mike,  I used TN guides on a Sage RPL I did last year.  I used the guides along with a gold Powell reel seat and got a nice look.  The gold appearance is not that gaudy.  I’m hoping for good durability. Jeff

Response:

Does anyone have any experiance with them? I am in the process of building a Thomas and Thomas 8wt 3 piece and I was thinking about what guides to use. You say T&T doesnt make those blanks? Yeah I know, but a buddy of mine pulled a few strings and it is going to be a special item. Anyway, I need some advice on the Titanium Nitride guides, are they worth the money? Are the a pain in the ass the put on? Any problems? Thanks….. -Mike There is also a black TN guide set (at least I think it is TN) that is

really hard and looks good.  I use them for the stealth factor.  Have em on two rods and they appear to be pretty good.  Have only used them for about a season at this point, but they got hard use.  No grooving to date, unlike the set they replaced.

Response:

If TiN coating is used as a wear preventative on so many drills, reamers and carbide metal cutting tools, I would think it would be an excellent finish for guides.

Response:

: -Mike There is also a black TN guide set (at least I think it is TN) that is : really hard and looks good.  I use them for the stealth factor.  Have em What exactly is the stealth factor?  Are we now involved in all out war? In order to combat the fisherman with radar and motors on their float tubes, the trout have established hidden "listening posts" to detect the presence of fisherman topside?   Titanium nitride has a low radar cross section, so the stealthy fisherman goes undetected? Just wondering.

First, I lied.  They’re not TiN, they are DLC guides from Hopkins and Holloway.  They’re still good. By stealth factor, I mean that they are black, so they reflect less light and thus spook fewer fish.   Now, I do have composite wrapping on the drift boat to keep the radar signature down…

Response:

I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon to build up from the blank.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : -Mike There is also a black TN guide set (at least I think it is TN) that is : really hard and looks good.  I use them for the stealth factor.  Have em What exactly is the stealth factor?  Are we now involved in all out war? In order to combat the fisherman with radar and motors on their float tubes, the trout have established hidden "listening posts" to detect the presence of fisherman topside?   Titanium nitride has a low radar cross section, so the stealthy fisherman goes undetected? Just wondering. First, I lied.  They’re not TiN, they are DLC guides from Hopkins and Holloway.  They’re still good. By stealth factor, I mean that they are black, so they reflect less light and thus spook fewer fish.   Now, I do have composite wrapping on the drift boat to keep the radar signature down…

May I suggest an inflatable for total stealth ? As far as low reflection guides go, I had pretty good luck with the Perfection ‘EZ Flow’. Oversized and a nice grey color. Think I gotta do something about my chartreuse fishing hat though…

Response:

First, I lied.  They’re not TiN, they are DLC guides from Hopkins and Holloway.  They’re still good. By stealth factor, I mean that they are black, so they reflect less light and thus spook fewer fish. Now, I do have composite wrapping on the drift boat to keep the radar signature down… May I suggest an inflatable for total stealth ? As far as low reflection guides go, I had pretty good luck with the Perfection ‘EZ Flow’. Oversized and a nice grey color. Think I gotta do something about my chartreuse fishing hat though…

I hope those aren’t the same grey guides I got some time back form Anglers Workshop.  They were supposed to be teflon coated and real slick.  Well, they were, until they got all grooved up.  They were way soft.  That’s why I got the DLC guides I referred to.   Bear in mind I’m tough on guides.  I fish from a boat most of the time, and sand and grit gets all over the line.  A better recipe for destroying guides could not be found.

Response:

I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon to build up from the blank.

Kevin, I built an Orvis PM10 4pc 4wt last year, and unfortunately I’ve been pretty disappointed with it’s performance. The rod throws nice tight loops for casts out to about 60′ (using a Cortland 444 Lazerline WF4W) but for anything beyond 60′ the rod just feels overloaded and "mushy" (i.e. not crisp). I also built an Orvis PM10 4pc 8wt and can throw it about 90′ before the same "mushy" feeling sets in, so I’m sure that some of my impression is biased by the lighter line weight. I’m now in the process of building a GLoomis IMX 4pc 5wt and have great hopes for it. The rod feels *much* stiffer throug- out it’s length than do any of the Orvis rods I’ve built, but I’m reserving final judgement until I’ve had a chance to finish the project and get the rod out to the local casting ponds. Unfortunately, I have no experience with the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 wt, so I really can’t give any feedback on that series. Best of luck with whatever you decide, Fred

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – First, I lied.  They’re not TiN, they are DLC guides from Hopkins and Holloway.  They’re still good. By stealth factor, I mean that they are black, so they reflect less light and thus spook fewer fish. Now, I do have composite wrapping on the drift boat to keep the radar signature down… May I suggest an inflatable for total stealth ? As far as low reflection guides go, I had pretty good luck with the Perfection ‘EZ Flow’. Oversized and a nice grey color. Think I gotta do something about my chartreuse fishing hat though… I hope those aren’t the same grey guides I got some time back form Anglers Workshop.  They were supposed to be teflon coated and real slick.  Well, they were, until they got all grooved up.  They were way soft.  That’s why I got the DLC guides I referred to.   Bear in mind I’m tough on guides.  I fish from a boat most of the time, and sand and grit gets all over the line.  A better recipe for destroying guides could not be found.

Hmm, I’ll have to check them. If they’re teflon coated I didn’t know it when I bought them :- Mine were on a Fisher 10 wgt. used mostly on surf and jetties in N.E., like you I’m rough on tackle (the rod is now broken . I originally had SICs on the rod, but switched to snakes to accomodate the heavy heads I like to throw. On my other rods, my black PacBays on my 11 weight have held up extremely well, fishing surf 3-4 times/week May- Oct. for 2 years. My PacBay TNs have begun to wear after about 4 years. The SICs, though ugly, have held up well for me too. Also, the single foot takes less time to wrap, which is important for me this time ‘cos I have to build the rod between the screams/needs/etc. of a 3 mo. old ! Fast is good, ja. I tend to cycle through rods pretty fast, slipping on jetties, etc. tends to beat them up good, so often the guides don’t get a chance to wear out !                                                         jc

Response:

: I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight : and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or : both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, : disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon : to build up from the blank. Hi Kevin,    I read a follow on post about the Orvis PM 10 and thought I’d mention my thoughts about the RPL (and the LLB) series. I have a 586 RPL and a 790 RPL and love them both. They are what the RPL stands for: Reserve Power Line. Wonderful line throwers. Now on the other hand, My wife has a 4711 LLB and I have just finished a 490 LLB and they are too soft for my arm. I have great difficulty casting with them. My wife, however, wouldn’t give her’s up. It is light and does a great job for her.    Two of my daugherts also have 586 RPL(s) and they swear by them. It is a very easy rod to cast. lukn4fish — Bob San Jose, Ca

Response:

I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon to build up from the blank.

Hi Kevin, I have cast and fished with both the Sage and Orvis 5wt. rods you mentioned. The RPL in my opinion is the all around better of the two.  Both are very fine rods; However,  the Sage has more backbone and will throw a tighter loop.  The chioce is yours as to which rod is better for you.  I prefer a very fast rod.  Some people like to have a slightly slower,  softer rod.  The fast action of the RPL is somewhat unforgiving when you use light tippets. I suggest that you fish with both before purchasing.  A day on the stream with a rod will give you much more information than casting one or the other at a fly shop. Good luck,  let me know what you think of both. Bryan Bonds White River Anglers http://www.ipa.net/~bbonds Fayetteville,  Ar

Response:

I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon to build up from the blank.

Hi Kevin, I’ve tried both before buying the PM-10 9′ 5wt 2 pce. Depending on your preferences in a rod both are very nice rods. The RPL is a somewhat stiffer rod, very nice casting (even beyond 75′) but when you hook a moderate sized trout the PM-10 gives you more pleasure. Recently I bought a Sage LL 590-3 instead of the PM-10. Its casting is about in between the RPL and the PM-10. Above all it gives a lot more fun when playing a moderate sized trout. Finally : When distance is your main goal, buy a RPL 590 or even better SP+ 590. when performance is your goal, buy PM-10, LL 590 (3) or SP 590 (3). Succes,  Ger.

Response:

Kevin, I can’t speak about the Orvis– However, I have fished with a Sage RPL 8ft for a 4 for many years.  I have fished the West Branch of the Ausable to the Madison.  I have never been disapointed with the rod.  I’ve caught everything from  bluegills to landlocked salmon with it and it has been a pleasure.  Tight loops, distance,  and when needed a delicate feel. I also own two Orvis Rods.  A green mountain and a far and fine.  Neither of these rods are worth the money I spent on them.  They hang on my wall while I fish with my Sage rods. In my opinion there is no comparison.  Fish with the Sage! Mike

Response:

You should try these rods yourself and see which ones cast best for you.  We all have different casting styles and preferences.

Response:

I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon to build up from the blank.

Kevin, Can’t help with the Sage rods, but can speak form experience about the PM-10’s.  I personally fish with the PM-10 865-4 (8 1/2 ft. 5 wt. 4 pc.) and the rod fits me perfectly. I love it.  The tip is very delicate and the rod loads and casts easily up close as well as having plenty of power to boom out the entire line if I need to. As you cast more and more line, the rod very smoothly and predictably flexes farther and farther down the blank with no sudden stops or hinges.  It became available this year in a 9ft. version for a little better line control, but I still like the 8 1/2ft.  We use the PM10 905 in our fly fishing schools and it is also superb.  Same light tip with plenty of power but I prefer the way the 4 pc. casts over the 2pc.  One of those things about buying top quality shoes and they’re all good, but this one’s really comfortable.  The PM10 904 is a little smoother IMHO than the 905 but doesn’t have as much power.  If  you