Question:

Does anybody have experience using sink-tip lines and weighted leaders?  Is there a difference?  I’m contemplating trying one or both to get down to the deeper holes yet still have natural nymph action. I don’t like rocks with fur and feathers attached.

I wouldn’t use a sink tip or a fast sink leader for deep nymphing, except on stillwater. Try using a really long tippet (NOT a tapered leader) below the indicator, assuming you use one. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

I wouldn’t use a sink tip or a fast sink leader for deep nymphing, except on stillwater. Try using a really long tippet (NOT a tapered leader) below the indicator, assuming you use one.

Charlie Brooks caught lots of big trout by deep nymphing with a full-sinking line. OTOH, he mentioned in one of his books that the technique isn’t very popular, even among those who have learned it well, because most fishermen don’t find it all that enjoyable. — Rusty Hook Laramie, Wyoming

Response:

I wouldn’t use a sink tip or a fast sink leader for deep nymphing, except on stillwater. Try using a really long tippet (NOT a tapered leader) below the indicator, assuming you use one. Charlie Brooks caught lots of big trout by deep nymphing with a full-sinking line. OTOH, he mentioned in one of his books that the technique isn’t very popular, even among those who have learned it well, because most fishermen don’t find it all that enjoyable.

My problem with it isn’t that it’s not enjoyable, Rusty. I’ll take an occasional big fish over "enjoyment" any time. My problem is that it’s much harder, if not impossible, to get a drag-free drift in moving water with a sink tip. In stillwater you usually want to put action on the nymph, so it’s not a problem. It seems to me like the best approach, if you want a drag free drift, is to use tippet all the way from the top to the bottom. BTW, I don’t claim to be any good at getting drag free drifts. I’m still learning, and probably always will be. P.S. I loved your retort to Phillipo. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Does anybody have experience using sink-tip lines and weighted leaders?  Is there a difference?  I’m contemplating trying one or both to get down to the deeper holes yet still have natural nymph action. I don’t like rocks with fur and feathers attached.

Response:

Jim Benenson writes: Does anybody have experience using sink-tip lines and weighted leaders?  Is there a difference?  I’m contemplating trying one or both to get down to the deeper holes yet still have natural nymph action. I don’t like rocks with fur and feathers attached.

Either will get you down to the deeper holes, but the sink tip line will be more difficult to mend.  I generally use a 9 foot leader/tippet and split shot to get the nymph down.  However, if you are talking deeper runs, a 12 foot leader might be a better choice.  I try to keep as much line off (or in) the water as possible when nymphing – it gives a better drift and makes strikes easier to see.   Dave

Response:

Does anybody have experience using sink-tip lines and weighted leaders?  Is there a difference?  I’m contemplating trying one or both to get down to the deeper holes yet still have natural nymph action. I don’t like rocks with fur and feathers attached.

I think that it’s difficult to get a dead drift, if that’s what you’re after, in a stream or river using a sinking line.  A sinking line is going to put lots of drag on the fly which can be useful for fishing streamers or in a FEW nymphing situations, but overall weight on the leader works better. Willi

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Question:

Does anyone know of any flyfishing spots in Spain around Granada? Thanks. Al

Response:

Does anyone know of any flyfishing spots in Spain around Granada? Thanks. Al

Try the Rio Frio, west of Granada near Loja. JR

Response:

Al: Drop Tino an email and see ifhe can help you. He’s somewhere up in the mountains in Spain.

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Havve a look at http://www.cybertrout.com./spain.htm http://usuarios.futurnet.es/m/marlin/index.htm http://www.caldea.com/fish/andfishi.html

Does anyone know of any flyfishing spots in Spain around Granada? Thanks.

Al

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Question:

Hi, I have been fishing for about 2 months now.  Can you recommend a good knot for tying two lines together, which are of different thicknesses.  I want to tie a 40lb leader to the mainline.   The knot I’ve tried wasn’t good.  I have lost a lot of good fish because of this, I was using the blood knot.  I found that the weakest point in my tackle is usually the knot that joins the leader to the mainline and is the first thing that gives way most of the time. ——- thanks

Response:

The surgeons knot and the uni knot in all it’s forms are what I use. The surgeons knot is simple and low profile and works well with leader attachment. I use it to tie leader to line of less than 20 lb and no more than 4:1 for the leader. I use a Uni loop to tie on the jig or hook, and for everything with lines over 20 lb. If you test with a gauge you will learn to do 90% strength ties consistently. This is probably more important than the actual knot used. Consistent ties. Where I fish low visibility of the line/leader is more important than anything else. The water is shallow and clear. Bill – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I have been fishing for about 2 months now.  Can you recommend a good knot for tying two lines together, which are of different thicknesses.  I want to tie a 40lb leader to the mainline.   The knot I’ve tried wasn’t good.  I have lost a lot of good fish because of this, I was using the blood knot.  I found that the weakest point in my tackle is usually the knot that joins the leader to the mainline and is the first thing that gives way most of the time. ——- thanks

Response:

The surgeon knot is the one I use.  It is tied by forming two overhand knots. pretty simple but effective.

Response:

Hi, I have been fishing for about 2 months now.  Can you recommend a good knot for tying two lines together, which are of different thicknesses.  I want to tie a 40lb leader to the mainline.   The knot I’ve tried wasn’t

A surgeon’s knot is a good one for this, as is a nail-knot. The surgeon’s knot is easy to tie (just overlap the ends of your lines by about 4-8" and make a double overhand knot) but the nail knot has the benefit that both the tag ends are constricted by the wraps. (Its basically the same as a hook snell, just using another line instead of a hook.) Any decent fishing or knot reference should have instructions for both. Blood knots are fine for light-weight line, but they get much harder to seat correctly as the line weight goes up. — <signature <! impressive references and witty saying goes here </signature Before you buy.

Response:

I use the uni-knot.  You overlap the ends of the lines, tie a uni-knot in one, then the other.  Pull them tight and cut off the tag ends. Very easy, makes a small knot and doesn’t come loose. Tom Kadlec The surgeon knot is the one I use.  It is tied by forming two overhand knots. pretty simple but effective.

Tom Kadlec

Response:

I agree with the uni-knot…i’ve used it forever it seems. Gives 90% line strength and is compatable with different line thickness. Berkly created this knot years ago. It’s very easy to tie. You can learn how to tie it from instructions in every pkg. of line they sell.

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Hi try here there’s various diagrams of knots which make it easier to learn them. http://www.f-deans.freeserve.co.uk/knots/knots.htm — Lawrence Deans           "Fishing On The Fly" http://www.f-deans.freeserve.co.uk http://you.genie.co.uk/dixie http://shop.affinia.com/l_deans/Store1 knocked me off my Lily Pad by writing: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hi, I have been fishing for about 2 months now.  Can you recommend a good knot for tying two lines together, which are of different thicknesses.  I want to tie a 40lb leader to the mainline.   The knot I’ve tried wasn’t good.  I have lost a lot of good fish because of this, I was using the blood knot.  I found that the weakest point in my tackle is usually the knot that joins the leader to the mainline and is the first thing that gives way most of the time. ——- thanks

Response:

Question:

Thanks Possibly I can get a answer from IGFA before we go. I can almost see it going either way – Actually I guess its not very different from the way most tube flies are constructed since the head and front fly is mounted on the shock tippet. On my tubes I am using 90# wire with the 2nd tube between the 2 tandem hooks and then attaching the leading hook to the shock with a cinch knot and placing  a foam head and the leading tube mounted on the shock tippet. I am using owner AKI’s so the snelling doesn’t work – they don’t have turned up eyes like the octopus hooks he’s using. He’s not really planning on conforming to IGFA anyways and is planning to use 3-4′ shocks. I was just intrigued by the simplicity of his rigs. On the landing: On all my gear trips the standard has been to "leader" a billfish to boat to be released or brought in for pictures, but on standard gear the leader is like 10′ long.  I am planning to use about 4′-5′ total leader including class and shock. I seem to recall reading somewhere, or being told by a captain, that a billfish was "caught" or the "landing phase starts" when either the leader or class tippet went inside the first guide or something. After that the mate could leader the fish  to control it while gaffing, netting, billing  or releasing. Reeling down to the class shouldn’t be a major problem, but trying to "leader" a billfish at 3′-4′ sounds very dangerous. On most of my other offshore flyfishing experiences we were either gaffing or netting the fish so, it wasn’t much of an issue using very short leaders. I hope to get to read an actual IGFA book this weekend – maybe it will clarify the specifics. Thanks again for the info.

  Hello   I also submitted this question to the Igfa site under construction but I   don’t know if they are set up to give responses yet.     I was wondering what the IGFA states concerning Shock tippets and tandem   flies.     It’s my understanding that the shock tippet length can be up to 12" to the   eye of the leading hook on a tandem fly and the max distance between tandem   hooks on a fly is 6" eye to eye.     1. Does the shock tippet require a separate connection at the fly or can the   shock leader be snelled to the first hook then the tag end of the same line   be attached to the back hook?  That would total 18" of the same shock   tippet – class to trailing hook.   If I understand what you mean, no.  The best rule of thumb is to use tackle that   won’t raise eyebrows, i.e., "usual and customary" (and taint a record with the   "technical record" charge).     A friend of mine is rigging some flies like this for Billfish.  Although the   fly would only have "one shot" (until the shock tippet was damaged) the   connection is very clean, straight running, and seems to give an extra 6" of   shock.   See above.       Also I have another nagging basic question.   2. When is a fish considered "caught" on fly gear – so someone else can   touch the line or leader  and assist in the landing or releasing the fish.   Is the when the leader goes in the rod tip? the class line, the shock?   something else?   Absolutely no touching the leader before the fish is "landed" and only in   gaffing or netting.  If someone else helps before the fish is brought to gaff,   DQ.   The above is solely my opinion, based on my knowledge only (I’ve read the rules,   and have only a passing knowledge, I don’t fish for record/trophy anymore).  If   you are going for record, you captain should have a working and ready knowledge,   as well as a copy of the rulebook to refer to.  If you are going on a bareboat   for record, get a copy of the rules from the IGFA (they are in Ft. Lauderdale –   561 area code).   HTH?   R

Response:

Thanks   Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online?   I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction   Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages?   Thanks     Google turned up this one:   http://www.wolfffishing.com/ingamfisasru.html   —   Charlie…

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello I also summited this question to the Igfa site under construction but I don’t know if they are set up to give responces yet. I was wondering what the IGFA states concerning Shock tippets and tandem flies. It’s my understanding that the shock tippet length can be up to 12" to the eye of the leading hook on a tandem fly and the max distance between tandem hooks on a fly is 6" eye to eye. 1. Does the shock tippet require a separate connection at the fly or can the shock leader be snelled to the first hook then the tag end of the same line be attached to the back hook?  That would total 18" of the same shock tippet – class to trailing hook.

If I understand what you mean, no.  THe best rule of thumb is to use tackle that won’t raise eyebrows, i.e., "usual and customary" (and taint a record with the "technical record" charge). A friend of mine is rigging some flies like this for Billfish.  Although the fly would only have "one shot" (until the shock tippet was damaged) the connection is very clean, straight running, and seems to give an extra 6" of shock.

See above. Also I have another nagging basic question. 2. When is a fish considered "caught" on fly gear – so someone else can touch the line or leader  and assist in the landing or releasing the fish. Is the when the leader goes in the rod tip? the class line, the shock? something else?

Absolutely no touching the leader before the fish is "landed" and only in gaffing or netting.  If someone else helps before the fish is brought to gaff, DQ. The above is solely my opinion, based on my knowledge only (I’ve read the rules, and have only a passing knowledge, I don’t fish for record/trophy anymore).  If you are going for record, you captain should have a working and ready knowledge, as well as a copy of the rulebook to refer to.  If you are going on a bareboat for record, get a copy of the rules from the IGFA (they are in Ft. Lauderdale – 561 area code). HTH? R

Response:

Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

Response:

Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

No, but rule did you need info on? R

Response:

Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

Google turned up this one: http://www.wolfffishing.com/ingamfisasru.html — Charlie…

Response:

Hello I also summited this question to the Igfa site under construction but I don’t know if they are set up to give responces yet. I was wondering what the IGFA states concerning Shock tippets and tandem flies. It’s my understanding that the shock tippet length can be up to 12" to the eye of the leading hook on a tandem fly and the max distance between tandem hooks on a fly is 6" eye to eye. 1. Does the shock tippet require a separate connection at the fly or can the shock leader be snelled to the first hook then the tag end of the same line be attached to the back hook?  That would total 18" of the same shock tippet – class to trailing hook. A friend of mine is rigging some flies like this for Billfish.  Although the fly would only have "one shot" (until the shock tippet was damaged) the connection is very clean, straight running, and seems to give an extra 6" of shock. Also I have another nagging basic question. 2. When is a fish considered "caught" on fly gear – so someone else can touch the line or leader  and assist in the landing or releasing the fish. Is the when the leader goes in the rod tip? the class line, the shock? something else? Thanks for any insights you might have on these questions Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

No, but rule did you need info on? R

Response:

Question:

If you like mailing lists try this one, it has about 800 members and you will receive up to 150 e-mails per day.  Leave your flames, off topic subjects, fights and swearing at home. http://www.uky.edu/~agrdanny/flyfish/list.htm — Ernie Harrison Fly Fishing Books, Blood Knot Machine Wading Boots, Making Rods, Fly Tying Box Go to:  http://users.ccnet.com/~emh

the majority of those messages have zip to do with flyfishing or tying. Much of it is aimless chit chat and worse. I subscribed for a few weeks and gave it up after my mail box was crammed full of useless drivel only a cut above spam. I am on Joe’s flyting list it is a much better group. Ralph H remove "(take_this_out)" for email reply.

Response:

Ok Ralph,  I am willing to give to give Joe’s a look, what is the URL? — Ernie Harrison Fly Fishing Books, Blood Knot Machine Wading Boots, Making Rods, Fly Tying Box Go to:  http://users.ccnet.com/~emh

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you like mailing lists try this one, it has about 800 members and you will receive up to 150 e-mails per day.  Leave your flames, off topic subjects, fights and swearing at home. http://www.uky.edu/~agrdanny/flyfish/list.htm — Ernie Harrison Fly Fishing Books, Blood Knot Machine Wading Boots, Making Rods, Fly Tying Box Go to:  http://users.ccnet.com/~emh the majority of those messages have zip to do with flyfishing or tying. Much of it is aimless chit chat and worse. I subscribed for a few weeks and gave it up after my mail box was crammed full of useless drivel only a cut above spam. I am on Joe’s flyting list it is a much better group. Ralph H remove "(take_this_out)" for email reply.

Response:

Ralph H schrieb in Nachricht …

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -If you like mailing lists try this one, it has about 800 members and you will receive up to 150 e-mails per day.  Leave your flames, off topic subjects, fights and swearing at home. http://www.uky.edu/~agrdanny/flyfish/list.htm — Ernie Harrison Fly Fishing Books, Blood Knot Machine Wading Boots, Making Rods, Fly Tying Box Go to:  http://users.ccnet.com/~emh the majority of those messages have zip to do with flyfishing or tying. Much of it is aimless chit chat and worse. I subscribed for a few weeks and gave it up after my mail box was crammed full of useless drivel only a cut above spam. I am on Joe’s flyting list it is a much better group.

Hi Ralph, I must admit I was not overly impressed with the group either. I obviously tried it about the same time as you, after an invitation to do so here on ROFF, and a lot of the mail at the time concerned  your dissatisfaction with it as I remember ! <G  You are also perfectly right about the other content, large quantity of fairly aimless or personal stuff, not all that much on fly fishing. I unsubscribed after a couple of weeks as well, without bothering to express my diappointment though, thought it would be a waste of bandwidth.  If you have an address for a good tying or fishing list I would be most  interested. Thanks and tight lines ! Mike Connor

Response:

to subscribe I believe you simply need to send an email to Ok Ralph,  I am willing to give to give Joe’s a look, what is the URL? —

Ralph H remove "(take_this_out)" for email reply.

Response:

Thanks for the info Ralph.  I recognize the mailing list from the URL you provided.  I was subscribed to it for about a month and the only thing I received was messages from people trying to "unsubscribe".  It  was very disappointing. — Ernie Harrison Fly Fishing Books, Blood Knot Machine Wading Boots, Making Rods, Fly Tying Box Go to:  http://users.ccnet.com/~emh

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – to subscribe I believe you simply need to send an email to Ok Ralph,  I am willing to give to give Joe’s a look, what is the URL? — Ralph H remove "(take_this_out)" for email reply.

Response:

Thanks for the info Ralph.  I recognize the mailing list from the URL you provided.  I was subscribed to it for about a month and the only thing I received was messages from people trying to "unsubscribe".  It  was very disappointing.

That was an anomily. Someone didn’t know how to unsubscribe, another misunderstood an economical response for terseness, and it digressed there for a bit. I’ve been on it for a few months and found it informative and easy, with even some latitude for humor (a couple duct tape jokes). Being a pretty rank beginner, I feel I can ask anything, however dumb it seems, and get a kind answer.   pete

Response:

I would like to invite each of you to join our Flyfishing and Flytying Mailing List.  We are experiencing some great traffic with some wonderful tips and tricks.  We also host a weekly irc chat session for mailing list members only.  Come join us for some great tips/tricks from such pro’s as:     Al Beatty     Neal Grose     Colin McPherson     Joyce Westphal put anything in the subject or message body area or your email.  You will be automatically subscribed. Thanks.  We look forward to having you join us JoeBoy

Response:

If you like mailing lists try this one, it has about 800 members and you will receive up to 150 e-mails per day.  Leave your flames, off topic subjects, fights and swearing at home. http://www.uky.edu/~agrdanny/flyfish/list.htm — Ernie Harrison Fly Fishing Books, Blood Knot Machine Wading Boots, Making Rods, Fly Tying Box Go to:  http://users.ccnet.com/~emh

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Question:

Are you talking about the Deleware river?

Response:

Does anyone know what is the best hatch to use this time of year? I’m new to Fly Fishing and would appreciate some free advice. Thankyou — James A. Neild

Response:

Check out the interactive hatch chart for the Delaware system and the Catskills at www.mayfly.com. Does anyone know what is the best hatch to use this time of year? I’m new to Fly Fishing and would appreciate some free advice. Thankyou — James A. Neild

– — Steven Schwartz www.loosecannon.com www.panix.com/~smsinc Give credit to those who want it.

Response:

Question:

   To All;   I have been asked by some in my tying classes , what 5 things makes up a High Quality Fly. The question is valid and would like to hear what the ROFF group may say.    Harry

Response:

  To All;  I have been asked by some in my tying classes , what 5 things makes up a High Quality Fly. The question is valid and would like to hear what the ROFF group may say.   Harry

Hi Harry, I offer my ideas regarding the 5 things that make a high quality fly from my perspective, a commercial fly tier: 1. Durability – quality materials, strong hook, etc. 2. Proper proportions, tail length, hackle, etc. 3. Attractive to the fly fisher 4. Attractive to the fish 5. Will sell It will be interesting to see what other fly tiers/fisher think. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

Response:

   To All;   I have been asked by some in my tying classes , what 5 things makes up a High Quality Fly. The question is valid and would like to hear what the ROFF group may say.    Harry

Harry,         Here’s my list of the five characteristics of a good quality fly: Durability – It has to last.  This isn’t art for art’s sake. Ease of tying – The point is to go fishing sometime this century.  I         lose enough flies that I need to tie more than one per day. Bugginess – Oh, that elusive quality.  If it doesn’t "look buggy" it         probably will never get tied on my tippet.  I’ve carried flies         for years that just don’t get a rise out of me. Availability of Ingredients – Part of this is my frugality.  But, part         is my ecological awareness.  If I’m going to have to spend         my tying and fishing time tracking down materials, I’m outta         here. Catches Fish – Course, before I know this, I’ve tracked down the         materials, easily tied the fly, am confident in its durability,         and have tied it on my tippet.  But, hey, this is what we’re         doing this for, isn’t it? Charley

Response:

  To All;  I have been asked by some in my tying classes , what 5 things makes up a High Quality Fly. The question is valid and would like to hear what the ROFF group may say.   Harry

Reply Never counted my reasons. 1. Do I enjoy tying the fly? 2. Does it REALLY require all of those materials that I don’t have? Can I sub. and    still have a good looking fly that will work. 3. Do I have confidence in the fly. 4. Do I need another fly like this one. How many of this type do I already carry that    I don’t use now. 5. And back to # 1. If I like to tie the fly thats what matters. I’m here for just      the fun.  CU, Steve Birkes Buckner, Mo.

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  To All;  I have been asked by some in my tying classes , what 5 things makes up a High Quality Fly. The question is valid and would like to hear what the ROFF group may say.

I can boil it down to just three things: 1.  It has to catch fish. 2.  It has to catch fish. 3.  It has to catch fish. Larry H.

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I fish mainly in still waters and I fine one other quality to be of importance when tying.I like to call this Pulsability; giving the illusion of a bubbling, pulsating, swimming creature. John Hafner

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Harry, as a former pro tyer I would have to say it’s more a case of WHO makes a good fly. Style and expertise does not come to everyone, even if you have the correct materials for any given pattern.   To All;  I have been asked by some in my tying classes , what 5 things makes up a High Quality Fly. The question is valid and would like to hear what the ROFF group may say.   Harry

– dave tait

Response:

I fish mainly in still waters and I fine one other quality to be of importance when tying.I like to call this Pulsability; giving the illusion of a bubbling, pulsating, swimming creature. John Hafner

A good fly should take less time to tie than it does to lose it.    -Ralph —

Response:

  To All;  I have been asked by some in my tying classes , what 5 things makes up a High Quality Fly. The question is valid and would like to hear what the ROFF group may say.   Harry

1. proportion 2. balance 3. durability 4. castability 5. silouette these are what i shoot for when tying flies for stripers, etc. shade/color would probably come in 6th for me.                                                 jc

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        Does it catch fish?         That, essentially, is the bottom line.

Response:

        Does it catch fish?         That, essentially, is the bottom line.

Yes, but,…… There are lots of flies out there that catch marlin, peacock bass, sharks, etc.  They catch fish, but are not a good fly for me.  I don’t get to sea too often.  And, when I do, I’m usually looking for salmon! So, now we have to add the delimiter, "Does it catch the fish I’m after?". This is such a complex question! :^) Charley

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –         Does it catch fish?         That, essentially, is the bottom line. Yes, but,…… There are lots of flies out there that catch marlin, peacock bass, sharks, etc.  They catch fish, but are not a good fly for me.  I don’t get to sea too often.  And, when I do, I’m usually looking for salmon! So, now we have to add the delimiter, "Does it catch the fish I’m after?". This is such a complex question! :^) Charley

Hi Charley, Good point Charley! My flies always catch the fish I’m after IF i’m telling the story.?! Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

Response:

Al Beatty said: Hi Charley, Good point Charley! My flies always catch the fish I’m after IF i’m telling the story.?!

Cheers for Al’s honesty.  I will add that if they don’t, I damn quick change the story. Dick Hubbard

Response:

   To All;   I have been asked by some in my tying classes , what 5 things makes up a High Quality Fly. The question is valid and would like to hear what the ROFF group may say.    Harry

Harry: 1. Ease of tying: most of us fit fly tying between the responsibilities work, running a home, and the ten o’clock news. Functional patterns are not necessarily a compromise. You can crank out a dozen brown-hackle-peacocks or BWO compara duns in the time it takes to tie half-as-many extended body paradrakes. This is not to say you don’t need extended body paradrakes–just save the more involved patterns for those rare occasions when you have a few hours to spend on the vice. 2. Proportions and technique: Spend time understanding how to size hackle and dimension tails; without such understanding, you can easily turn a humpy into a spider. Study A. K. Best’s "Production Fly Tying." He explains technique in this book, not recipes for ties (this book is made most valuable as a reference source: when you’re lashing down a moose mane tail, you can consult the book for a brief technique refresher before you begin, and your flies look a little better for your trouble). 3. Materials: Garbage in, garbage out. Webby dry fly hackle, too soft biots, it doesn’t matter. There’s nothing you can do to disguise poor materials. 4. Hooks: I used to recycle hooks but quit when I discovered that hooks grow weaker in boxes–every time your fly box gets submerged, the hooks will weaken from rust, particularly where the bend enters foam. I prefer Tiemco (particularly the 200R) and Daichi hooks. 5. Bottom Line: tie patterns that have proved their worth on the waters you fish. While just about any pattern will work at one time or another, there are a lot of useless diversions out there. Get to know old timers and knowledgable guides. They’ll turn you on to patterns you won’t find in books. Mitch Mulhall

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –    To All;   I have been asked by some in my tying classes , what 5 things makes up a High Quality Fly. The question is valid and would like to hear what the ROFF group may say.    Harry Harry: 1. Ease of tying: most of us fit fly tying between the responsibilities work, running a home, and the ten o’clock news. Functional patterns are not necessarily a compromise. You can crank out a dozen brown-hackle-peacocks or BWO compara duns in the time it takes to tie half-as-many extended body paradrakes. This is not to say you don’t need extended body paradrakes–just save the more involved patterns for those rare occasions when you have a few hours to spend on the vice. 2. Proportions and technique: Spend time understanding how to size hackle and dimension tails; without such understanding, you can easily turn a humpy into a spider. Study A. K. Best’s "Production Fly Tying." He explains technique in this book, not recipes for ties (this book is made most valuable as a reference source: when you’re lashing down a moose mane tail, you can consult the book for a brief technique refresher before you begin, and your flies look a little better for your trouble). 3. Materials: Garbage in, garbage out. Webby dry fly hackle, too soft biots, it doesn’t matter. There’s nothing you can do to disguise poor materials. 4. Hooks: I used to recycle hooks but quit when I discovered that hooks grow weaker in boxes–every time your fly box gets submerged, the hooks will weaken from rust, particularly where the bend enters foam. I prefer Tiemco (particularly the 200R) and Daichi hooks. 5. Bottom Line: tie patterns that have proved their worth on the waters you fish. While just about any pattern will work at one time or another, there are a lot of useless diversions out there. Get to know old timers and knowledgable guides. They’ll turn you on to patterns you won’t find in books. Mitch Mulhall

  To Mitch and all who took the time to reply, thank you !!  I will take these notes to the start of yet another class Thursday night.   Again Thanks    Harry

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Question:

Are there any members out there? I tried to go to the meeting last night, but the paper gave extremly bad directions. Jack Stewart was the guest. I am interested in becoming a member, any info is helpful. Thanks Mike

Response:

Are there any members out there? I tried to go to the meeting last night, but the paper gave extremly bad directions. Jack Stewart was the guest. I am interested in becoming a member, any info is helpful. Thanks Mike

Mike, I belonged to their group for almost two years when I lived in Connecticut.  I wrote a nasty letter to them and cancelled my membership.  I too received bad directions from them and got lost (and it was, I bet, a much longer drive than yours was!).  I also only received a 2 or 3  flyers/updates from them and also only 3 or so of their magazines.  I also had sent them many letters, never ever getting a response.  Same went for phone calls never being returned. I also told their representitives at a couple of fly shows how unhappy I was with their lack of communication and concern they have towards their members.  As I said, I finally quit having any relationship with them.  They came across to me as the snobbiest flyfishing group in existence (and there are others besides them out there!!). Just thought I’d give you my 2 cents worth and a warning, I suppose. Take care, Paul.

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Question:

Before the present day method of line nomenclature (e.g. WT5, DT6…etc..) there was a different way to describe line weights and types. Does anyone have details on the old system? I run across old lines and rods and would like to know exactly what I am looking at.

Response:

Bruce Richards from Scientific Anglers has written a short book on Modern Fly Lines as part of Lefty Kreh’s Little Library of Fly Fishing.  It has a biref section (pp. 32-37) on standardization of fly line weights, including a translation table. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Before the present day method of line nomenclature (e.g. WT5, DT6…etc..) there was a different way to describe line weights and types. Does anyone have details on the old system? I run across old lines and rods and would like to know exactly what I am looking at.

Response:

Try McClaines Fishing Encyclopedia, I think he has a run down on this subject. Phil

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Question:

: If you come up with ideas on how to get your girlfriend to take up : flyfishing for steelhead, drop me a line,…Bill Uyeki If I can make it so she doesn’t have to get up early … walk too far … have someplace warm to sit in the sun while fishing … and generally allow for napping time … I’m set … doesn’t sound condusive to steelhead …  ;-) KStJ

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I spent last weekend on the Mad River trying my luck with the Steelhead run … does anyone have suggestions for someplace closer to S.F.  I’d appreciate a day trip location instead of a weekend trip … and my girl-friend would probably a it also.  ;-) KStJ

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I spent last weekend on the Mad River trying my luck with the Steelhead run … does anyone have suggestions for someplace closer to S.F.  I’d appreciate a day trip location instead of a weekend trip … and my girl-friend would probably a it also.  ;-)

The Gualala (sp?) is 3 hours from SF.  It’s a much smaller river than the Mad, but I’ve seens tons of fish and good water color there 2 days after a rain.  With these smaller coastal rivers, timing is even more critical. The Russian is even closer, but I’ve heard in recent years the number of steelhead returning to the hatchery on Dry Creek is barely over 600.  By comparison, consider that when things are really rockin’, the Mad River Hatchery will get 250+ steelhead a week, and they have to take some back down to the river, because they can’t handle any more! If you come up with ideas on how to get your girlfriend to take up flyfishing for steelhead, drop me a line,…Bill Uyeki

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