Question:

Why are you about to send them all to Italy?

I’ve taken a job with the Food and Agriculture Organization of the U.N. for a couple of years, in Rome. JR

Response:

I’ve taken a job with the Food and Agriculture Organization of the U.N. for a couple of years, in Rome. JR

U.N. Cool.  Go out and thump mellons for the "World Team."  I would contact U.S. Customs.  Many times in my moves around the world, I had a customs agent on site when they packed my goods up.  Its their job.  Explain the situation, and tell them what you have.  They will be able to tell you what to do.  The best thing to do is make sure the odd bits (polar bear, dodo, and such) are packaged in and American wrapper (Wapsi, Orvis…).  It then comes under the commercial products for personnal use heading vice "trapped or hunted furs and pelts."  The latter is a pain in the butt. Secondarily, when you ship, package it all together and label it "craft materials."  They understand crafts alot more than the nuances of fly tying. Cheers. — Frank Reid Reverse email to reply.

Response:

I’ve taken a job with the Food and Agriculture Organization of the U.N. for a couple of years, in Rome. JR

Good luck and stay safe JR!  Hope you find some fishing opportunities! –Stan

Response:

Why are you about to send them all to Italy? I’ve taken a job with the Food and Agriculture Organization of the U.N. for a couple of years, in Rome. JR

Is there a relocation company handling matters for you? They should be able to help. Paul

Response:

Good luck and stay safe JR!  Hope you find some fishing opportunities!

Thanks, Stan.  Compared to a lot of places I’ve lived, the greatest danger in Rome will be from all the beautiful women, and I reckon I can live with that.  A couple of weeks ago, a fellow named Bepo from Friuli posted here, and I’ve been grilling him by email about the fishing there.  Turns out he’s a freshwater fisheries biologist, so he knows a lot.  ROFF delivers yet again!!! JR

Response:

U.S. Customs.  Many times in my moves around the world, I had a customs agent on site when they packed my goods up.  Its their job.  Explain the situation, and tell them what you have.  They will be able to tell you what to do.  The best thing to do is make sure the odd bits (polar bear, dodo, and such) are packaged in and American wrapper (Wapsi, Orvis…).  It then comes under the commercial products for personnal use heading vice "trapped or hunted furs and pelts."  The latter is a pain in the butt. Secondarily, when you ship, package it all together and label it "craft materials."  They understand crafts alot more than the nuances of fly tying.

Good advice.  Fortunately, many of the more expensive items, that I’d least like to see confiscated, are Whiting capes and saddles still in their original, labeled zip-lock bags.  As you say, it turns out (according to Kaufmann’s) that products from commercially raised domesticated animals (chickens, rabbits, calves, etc.) are easier to deal with than products from wild animals (deer, elk, etc.), which, to be exported legally, require an inspection by USFW. JR

Response:

Is there a relocation company handling matters for you? They should be able to help.

They were being all spacey for a while, alternating between confusion and breezy nonchalance ("Oh, probably there’ll be no problem…").  I’ve been pushing them about being sure to get the appropriate customs and fish and wildlife clearances leaving the U.S., based on what I’ve found out from Kaufmann’s, Hunter’s Angling, and other folks.  Now they’re coming around. JR

Response:

John, have you inquired with the UN to see if you can get your stuff into Italy in something like a "diplomatic pouch"?  I should think UN personnel would have something like "diplomatic immunity." BTW, my younger duaghter lives in Terni, an hour or two north of Rome. She tells me a river flows through Terni that is full of fish, but she has no idea what kind.   She’s coming for Easter; I’ll see what more I can find out. vince

Response:

John, have you inquired with the UN to see if you can get your stuff into Italy in something like a "diplomatic pouch"?  I should think UN personnel would have something like "diplomatic immunity." BTW, my younger duaghter lives in Terni, an hour or two north of Rome. She tells me a river flows through Terni that is full of fish, but she has no idea what kind. She’s coming for Easter; I’ll see what more I can find out.

Thanks, Vince.  Folks at my level in the organization have some very nice privileges and a quasi-diplomatic status, but not quite immunity.   The pouch is out of the question, but in fact things are shaping up.  It was the local moving company here that was at a loss; the shippers in DC that subcontracted them are pretty much on top of everything now that I’ve expressed my concern. I’d like to hear about waters close to Rome.  All the best trout water I’ve ID’d up til now is too far north for weekend jaunts, but I suspect there is some "lesser quality" water in the Apennines, and I don’t mind fishing for warm water species as well.  Plus, what with a gazillion and a half miles of coastline, there must be a saltwater fish or two that can be taken with a fly.  It’s been said here on ROFF before:  if you’re open-minded and a bit adventuresome, you can always find something worthwhile to fish for. BTW, have fun at the Penns ‘Clave. JR

Response:

I’d like to hear about waters close to Rome.

I was in Rome for about four months a few years back. I didn’t have my fishing gear, but I do recall there being a nice sporting goods store right near the Sisto bridge, across from Trastevere. It wasn’t on the main road that parallels the Tiber, but the "access road" that paralleled that. The exterior was non-descript but they had some very nice gear inside (including fly gear and some really nice shotguns, IIRC). Not much to go on, I realize, but there are worse ways to spend an afternoon than wandering that area looking for a flyshop . Have fun…I’m sure you will! – Sid …and buy your coffee for home brewing at Castroni…you won’t be sorry! …and, umm, you guys hiring?

Response:

…… I do recall there being a nice sporting goods store right near the Sisto bridge, across from Trastevere. It wasn’t on the main road that parallels the Tiber, but the "access road" that

Now you’re talkin. …and buy your coffee for home brewing at Castroni…you won’t be sorry!

Now you’re REALLY talkin.  Thanks, Sid. JR

Response:

I’m about to ship all my fly tying materials to Italy.  Does anyone know what sort of documentation might be required to avoid problems getting bird and animal skins into Italy and then getting them eventually back into the U.S.? JR Why are you about to send them all to Italy?

Folks, we have the first bidder. Tim

Response:

I’m about to ship all my fly tying materials to Italy.  Does anyone know what sort of documentation might be required to avoid problems getting bird and animal skins into Italy and then getting them eventually back into the U.S.? JR

Response:

I’m about to ship all my fly tying materials to Italy.  Does anyone know what sort of documentation might be required to avoid problems getting bird and animal skins into Italy and then getting them eventually back into the U.S.? JR

Why are you about to send them all to Italy?

Response:

Question:

I’m looking for any advice/options on hiring a guide to fly fish in the Cook Islands.  Any fishing stories out there, or good/bad information on guides in the Cooks?  I’ll be there in April 2001.

Response:

I’m looking for any advice/options on hiring a guide to fly fish in the Cook Islands.  Any fishing stories out there, or good/bad information on guides in the Cooks?  I’ll be there in April 2001.

I found this on the Web: http://www.ck/fishing.htm is ROFF’s premier expert on flyfishing in the South Pacific. His web site URL is http://fishing.ifrance.com/fishing/ — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

For what its worth (and it ain’t worth much), several years ago I spent a couple of days on Aitutaki. Unfortunately the day I flew in we were soon followed by a hell of a storm and the lagoon turned into wind tossed milk. Despite the fact that we found no fish it is one of the loveliest places I have ever seen and well worth the visit. When you are doing your search this is one island worth keeping in mind. Hope you enjoy the trip. Vaughan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking for any advice/options on hiring a guide to fly fish in the Cook Islands.  Any fishing stories out there, or good/bad information on guides in the Cooks?  I’ll be there in April 2001. I found this on the Web: http://www.ck/fishing.htm is ROFF’s premier expert on flyfishing in the South Pacific. His web site URL is http://fishing.ifrance.com/fishing/ — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Question:

That’s the best troll I have seen in a long time.  Raise the age limit another thirty years and include "married" and you can have a dirty old man. Good luck. Ernie

Hey, then I’d qualify! — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

I’m interested in meeting a 40-ish single fly fishing guy in the S.F. Bay Area. I’m a good fly fisher; fit, grounded gal, not a psycho…just would love to have a companion someday

Might be better to post this to    alt.ac-dc.lonelyhearts.fun or try joining the chat at www.thecaddis.com tonight at 8pm pacific.. this shop is based in Belmont and a few of the participants are local…. don’t know the marital or physical or mental status of the folks that show up, but like anything else on the ‘Net, y’spends yer $$ and y’takes yer chances… Larry #:)# 40+, married, partially psycho and fit (to be tied)

Response:

Lets be frank, 40ish single straight flyfisherman are scarcer than hen’s teeth in S.F. Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’d suggest you join a club; people are at least somewhat sane there. Drop by the Casting Pond in Golden Gate Park, right next to the Police Stable  near Polo Field on a Sunday morning, and you will find some local fishing club members holding their weekly meets. 40ish single flyfishermen are scarcer than hen’s teeth, but it’s your call…. JT

Response:

Lets be frank, 40ish single straight flyfisherman are scarcer than hen’s teeth in S.F.

No, I’ll be Frank. You’ll be Nancy, — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

50-ish married WM seeks flyfishing supermodel in her 20s (early 20s) in the SF Bay Area. I’m not a psycho. I’m just looking for a meaningful, platonic relationship with a member of the fair sex with common interests. Prefer proven fish catcher with ability to tie knots in 7x and 8x tippet threaded through size 28 flies. Will split the gas 50/50. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

– "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Lets be frank, 40ish single straight flyfisherman are scarcer than hen’s teeth in S.F. Dave

Should a young married couple be frank and earnest ?  No one of them should be a woman. Lets face it , all flyfishermen are weirdos. TL MC

Response:

I’m interested in meeting a 40-ish single fly fishing guy in the S.F. Bay Area. I’m a good fly fisher; fit, grounded gal, not a psycho…just would love to have a companion someday for my many No. Calif. fishing weekends.   Sorry if this is against some kind of newsgroup rules (not really)… Thanks, and Happy New Year.

check out the two Casting Clubs in the Bay Area – G.G. Casting Club at the Angler’s Lodge in the park, and the Oakland Casting Club at Leona Park in Oakland, they "meet" Sunday morning The folks at the GG can give you directions to the Oakland Club – in the summer they do trips to No Calif., etc. Hope this helps.    http://www.newsfeeds.com       The Largest Usenet Servers in the World!

Response:

I’m interested in meeting a 40-ish single fly fishing guy in the S.F. Bay Area. I’m a good fly fisher; fit, grounded gal, not a psycho…just would love to have a companion someday for my many No. Calif. fishing weekends.   Sorry if this is against some kind of newsgroup rules (not really)… Thanks, and Happy New Year.

Response:

I’m interested in meeting a 40-ish single fly fishing guy in the S.F. Bay Area. I’m a good fly fisher; fit, grounded gal, not a psycho…just would love to have a companion someday for my many No. Calif. fishing weekends.   Sorry if this is against some kind of newsgroup rules (not really)… Thanks, and Happy New Year.

ACW: Hell, that’s the most on-topic post I’ve seen this week! But watch out for a guy named Wayno. With an invite like yours, he’ll claim to be "in the SF Bay Area". If you hook up with him, he will definitely leave you…..changed! /daytripper (This was a Public Service Announcement ;^)

Response:

I know a ton of guys in the Bay that fit the bill, unfortunately (for me) I’m only 27.  Anyway if your serious I could put you in touch with some of these guys. Forrest http://www.FlyFishingREVIEW.com FlyFishingREVIEW.com Read Reviews on the Fly Fishing Gear you want! Before you buy.

Response:

That’s the best troll I have seen in a long time.  Raise the age limit another thirty years and include "married" and you can have a dirty old man. Good luck. Ernie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m interested in meeting a 40-ish single fly fishing guy in the S.F. Bay Area. I’m a good fly fisher; fit, grounded gal, not a psycho…just would love to have a companion someday for my many No. Calif. fishing weekends.   Sorry if this is against some kind of newsgroup rules (not really)… Thanks, and Happy New Year.

Response:

I’d suggest you join a club; people are at least somewhat sane there. Drop by the Casting Pond in Golden Gate Park, right next to the Police Stable  near Polo Field on a Sunday morning, and you will find some local fishing club members holding their weekly meets. 40ish single flyfishermen are scarcer than hen’s teeth, but it’s your call…. JT – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m interested in meeting a 40-ish single fly fishing guy in the S.F. Bay Area. I’m a good fly fisher; fit, grounded gal, not a psycho…just would love to have a companion someday for my many No. Calif. fishing weekends.   Sorry if this is against some kind of newsgroup rules (not really)… Thanks, and Happy New Year.

Response:

I’d suggest you join a club; people are at least somewhat sane there. Drop by the Casting Pond in Golden Gate Park, right next to the Police Stable  near Polo Field on a Sunday morning, and you will find some local fishing club members holding their weekly meets. 40ish single flyfishermen are scarcer than hen’s teeth, but it’s your call….

I just read a chapter in Thomas McGuane’s new book, The Longest Silence, about the San Francisco Fly Casting Club. It’s called "Twilight on the Buffalo Paddock." That guy can write! If you go there, ACW, keep an eye on the underbrush. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Question:

Why the bimini twist?

…cuz the foxtrot looks dorky? -wf

Response:

If you aren’t worried about records, forget the bimini and fish a good tapered leader.  The bimini is a way to fish for big fish, like tarpon with a light tippit. If you are willing to fish a little heavier leader forget the bimini.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve only fished in the salt a few times but finally broke down and bought Lefty Kreh’s book on the subject.  My question is what use is the Bimini Twist?  I understand that if you are trying for a world record then you need great 100 per cent strength knots to tie in your 1 foot of "tippet class". I’m not really interested in that and I suspect the vast majority of salt water fisherman arent either…why not just tie your bite tippet on  with a surgeons knot or something? Sorry for this off topic question……now back to the Gink Wars. jorge — Posted via Talkway – http://www.talkway.com Exchange ideas on practically anything ™.

Response:

Good choice in books … My S/W Flyfishing Bible, I call it. As I understand it ( and have somewhat tested) the Bimini is the strongest knot to use "if tied properly!  I personally am a strong proponent of the "spider hitch" It is easier, smaller, and faster to tie, and I now can tee it in a few seconds…even in the dark.   I almost always use it to loop on tippet to leader on all sizes I use (5x to 20#) even in freshwater.  It supposedly is just as strong as a bimini except for shock load.  Since most of the time the rod / line absorbs the shocks it works great for me.  I have even done some testing and it usually takes a better bimini than I can tie to exceed the breaking strength of one of my spiders.  I have also performed this test with a couple of professional S/W guides biminis (in up to 20# test) and usually their bimini fails first. (or of course the unknotted line in the middle. If you want to give it a try I think the knot is listed in Lefty’s book. Usually they show this knot being tied using a finger or thumb as the "guide" to wrap around. I have had better luck using a small object like a toothpick or hemostats.  After some practice it can easily be tied with no tools by looping the line "between" the thumb and forefinger with no tools. Like the bimini this knot’s real purpose it to double the line and use the loop lines to tie another knot to something… or to make a doubled loop.  I use a lot of loops and normally just make the spiders loop, combine the lines, and tie a surgeons loop close to the spider.  This can result in a small loop of double line. (or as large as you need)  For your shock leader or bite tippet this give you a doubled line of class tippet to tie the knot with. The knot tied with the doubled line is almost always stronger than the spider, bimini, or the single class tippet.  I find the issue of attaching wire, 40# or 100# mono to any doubled 12-16 lb connection more prone to failure and problems than the class termination knot. So far I Never lost a fish due to a spider breaking. (Although I have lost lots of fish due to the line breaking between the knots (where it’s supposed to) just poor dumb bad luck….  I have lost a number of fish due to bimini knot failure. If you go with the bimini in the 20# & under size I highly recommend using pliobond or something on the final hitches.  I have seen way too many bimini’s start coming apart while fishing if they are not glued.  I even saw this once on a friends backing to flyline connection where he had used a bimini.  The really sad part is that a number of us were taught to tie our best binini’s by Stu Apte … So I guess we can’t blame the teacher!  I recall reading somewhere that it only took a few years to "perfect" a bimini and ony a couple more to perfect it on a rocking boat out in the middle of the ocean.  Maybe they were right. The real test is to always break a lot of line and knots until you are confident they as strong as the line. (or at least as strong a YOU can tie them)  I make leaders from clear Ande and use Ande tournament class line. This stuff comes in 1/4 lb spools, so I have a lot to waste. I just tie up the knots on each end to end up about 3′ outside the loops and then use a couple of chunks of cut off broom handles to hold on to and break the knots. I stand on the stick with the loop over it on one end and pull with my hands at the other until it breaks.  Just make sure you have safety glasses  on and don’t touch the line itself.  16# and up is quite violent when it breaks and can give you a nasty cut if it gets near you hands. (ah the voice of experience)  This isn’t real scientific but really help you determine the best knots that you can tie. Good luck in the salt!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve only fished in the salt a few times but finally broke down and bought Lefty Kreh’s book on the subject.  My question is what use is the Bimini Twist?  I understand that if you are trying for a world record then you need great 100 per cent strength knots to tie in your 1 foot of "tippet class". I’m not really interested in that and I suspect the vast majority of salt water fisherman arent either…why not just tie your bite tippet on  with a surgeons knot or something? Sorry for this off topic question……now back to the Gink Wars. jorge — Posted via Talkway – http://www.talkway.com Exchange ideas on practically anything ™.

Response:

Thanks so much for the advice over the bimini twist. (George and RJ). I will indeed practice a bit with the spider hitch and see if I can master that. I was fishing in the backcountry on my last trip to Latin America for snook and baby tarpon…..the fish were completely non leader tippet shy so I thought well in order not to lose’em in the mangroves and make sure I can horse’em, I’ll tie like 20 pound test on for a tippet.  I was having a ball catching 10 pound baby tarpon and small snook (and replacing the tippet every 3 or 4 fish cause the tarpon were sawing it up pretty good). However I hooked a big snook….the boat driver said "Its a big snook, Jorge….don’t let him get in the mangrove"…..the rod was an 8 weight Scott…..it was bent double and then broke a foot above the handle.   What did I do wrong there?  Is an 8 weight too lite for the backcountry?  Should I only use 10 pound tippets and depend on breaking off rather than stressing the rod too much?   It was a big snook….the boat was being pulled sideways into the mangrove and I’ll did was just hold on (in panic!). I appreciate the help you guys are giving to this beginner in the salt. Jorge — Posted via Talkway – http://www.talkway.com Exchange ideas on practically anything ™.

Response:

Most likely you dinged the rod at some time and it was weak there.  If it is a top of the line rod you can probably get it replaced.  You can also have a problem if you grab the rod above the handle cause you can change where the rod is stressed.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks so much for the advice over the bimini twist. (George and RJ). I will indeed practice a bit with the spider hitch and see if I can master that. I was fishing in the backcountry on my last trip to Latin America for snook and baby tarpon…..the fish were completely non leader tippet shy so I thought well in order not to lose’em in the mangroves and make sure I can horse’em, I’ll tie like 20 pound test on for a tippet.  I was having a ball catching 10 pound baby tarpon and small snook (and replacing the tippet every 3 or 4 fish cause the tarpon were sawing it up pretty good). However I hooked a big snook….the boat driver said "Its a big snook, Jorge….don’t let him get in the mangrove"…..the rod was an 8 weight Scott…..it was bent double and then broke a foot above the handle. What did I do wrong there?  Is an 8 weight too lite for the backcountry?  Should I only use 10 pound tippets and depend on breaking off rather than stressing the rod too much?   It was a big snook….the boat was being pulled sideways into the mangrove and I’ll did was just hold on (in panic!). I appreciate the help you guys are giving to this beginner in the salt. Jorge — Posted via Talkway – http://www.talkway.com Exchange ideas on practically anything ™.

Response:

Sounds like you were using the same guide I used…. Except when he tried to tell my buddy repeatedly in excited broken  English (the fish) GO IN MANGROVE! GO IN MANGROVE!  My buddy stepped out of the boat and sank to his shoulders in the silt….. But that’s a whole different story. We were in Cancun earlier this year and used 8 & 9 wt rods on the baby (4′ ) tarpon we found there & didn’t have any rod strength problems. I was using Sage Rplx’s and my buddy was using the Orvis and Fenwick HMG’s…  The tarpon action was hot and we ended up using straight 40# leaders when the all the premade tippets ran out….and still managed to break off a fair number of fish! (the folks at Sage are probably cringing if they read this! Sorry to have to tell you but your story sounds like operator error.  Strong saltwater fish need to fought with the butt of the rod not the tip.  You are risking it if you bend the rod beyond 90

Question:

Kits are usually very bad.  Just buy a vise and some thread and material. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to fly fishing.  I would like to buy a fly tying kit (vise,ect…). It does not have to be new.  Does anyone have one to sell or know of anyplace that has good deals on complete kits? Curtis remove the nospam for email reply.

Response:

I thought the ‘el cheapo I got from Cabella’s was fine…   However, your local shop may have one just as good, with some advice on where to enter some classes. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to fly fishing.  I would like to buy a fly tying kit (vise,ect…). It does not have to be new.  Does anyone have one to sell or know of anyplace that has good deals on complete kits? Curtis remove the nospam for email reply.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I thought the ‘el cheapo I got from Cabella’s was fine…   However, your local shop may have one just as good, with some advice on where to enter some classes. I’m new to fly fishing.  I would like to buy a fly tying kit (vise,ect…). It does not have to be new.  Does anyone have one to sell or know of anyplace that has good deals on complete kits? Curtis remove the nospam for email reply.

Response:

I’m new to fly fishing.  I would like to buy a fly tying kit (vise,ect…). It does not have to be new.  Does anyone have one to sell or know of anyplace that has good deals on complete kits? Curtis remove the nospam for email reply.

Hi Curt, before you buy have a look at www.flyanglersonline.com Tight lines ! Mike Connor

Response:

Kits are usually very bad.  Just buy a vise and some thread and

material. World without end, Amen.  When I was in FF retail, I steered everybody away from the kits, explaining they could get a decent start on materials,etc. and actually get stuff they will use by buying compnents selectively and individually for about the same amount of $..   I still have some claret saddles from my first kit, purchased from GL Herter in 1963.  If you want memories and materials you will never use, get a kit. Otherwise, just buy as much stuff as you can afford and build from there.

Response:

Curt, DO NOT BUY ANY KIT! Do yourself a favor and go to a reputable flyfishing shop (not a general fishing store) and get the name of a fly tyer in your area that you can contact. Get in touch with that person and see if he or she will give you 10 minutes of his/her time. If yes, describe your situation and ask for advise. Most tyers I know are happy to help a beginner get started in tying with advise that will point you in the right direction. Good luck and if you want, you can e-mail me. Allan

Response:

Don’t buy a kit, Here is my basic selection for a beginner tying trout flies.  Add items as you learn more about tying and know what you want..   1 Thompson A Vise 1 pair of scissors 1 Bobbin 1 Hackle pliers 1 Hair stacker 1 Box Mustad Hooks 94840 size 12 (dry) 1 Box Mustad Hooks 3906 size 12 (wet) 1 Spool thread (black) 1 Spool thread (brown) 1 Spool thread (red) 1 Spool floss (yellow) 1 Spool floss (red) 1 Spool gold tinsel 1 Spool silver tinsel 1 Neck (grizzly) 1 Neck (brown) 1 bunch peacock herl 1 patch deer hair 1 rabbit face 1 card Chennile (black) 1 card Chennile (brown) 1 card Chennile (red) — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-Mail Selling my Fly Fishing Books Go to: http://users.ccnet.com/~emh – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to fly fishing.  I would like to buy a fly tying kit (vise,ect…). It does not have to be new.  Does anyone have one to sell or know of anyplace that has good deals on complete kits? Curtis remove the nospam for email reply.

Response:

i totally agree with allan…….tying kits are a waste,

SNIP Depends where you get the kit.  Buy one from a small, conscientious, family business and you will be well served.  May I recommend www.wwdoak.com Keep your stick on the ice, Thos.

Response:

I’m new to fly fishing.  I would like to buy a fly tying kit (vise,ect…). It does not have to be new.  Does anyone have one to sell or know of anyplace that has good deals on complete kits? Curtis remove the nospam for email reply.

Curt, When I started tying I bought a Thompson Pro vice for $32.00 and only the tools and materials I needed to tie one type of fly. This way you don’t waste money on a kit which may contain cheap materials or materials that you’ll never use. I buy materials from a fly shop where you can examine the materials and get help. I have purchsed materials from Cabela’s and have been disappointed. Ron

Response:

Harry, I would agree you don’t have a hobby, yours is an addiction.  Perhaps you should start going to Fly Tier’s Anonymous meetings. — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-Mail Selling my Fly Fishing Books Go to: http://users.ccnet.com/~emh – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hobby ? now that’s an interesting way to think of this "tying" thing. I have one complete room and most of a two car garage involved in this "hobby." I have more tyed up in hooks than my first car cost. In feathers, well lets say one year of tuition  at Cal Berkeley would be an equal and fair trade. I know, I have tried too trade   Harry < snip By the way, dyeing things is a neat hobby also…..

Response:

Harry, I would agree you don’t have a hobby, yours is an addiction.  Perhaps you should start going to Fly Tier’s Anonymous meetings.

  Been there , done that  :-)   Harry (everyone there wanted flies)

Response:

Harry, I would agree you don’t have a hobby, yours is an addiction.  Perhaps you should start going to Fly Tier’s Anonymous meetings.  Been there , done that  :-)  Harry (everyone there wanted flies)

Harry,  you went to the wrong lodge ! Where I was they all wanted pattern recipes for using up the most outlandish materials you ever heard of ! Like how to tie up ten thousand hoppers using the hair from the nether parts of white rhinoceroseesseess

Question:

There is a new product out on the market which allows spinning and spincast anglers to attach a length of fly line to mono and fly fish…has any one tried this product or done this themselves?  Any advice on how to fish doing this? — Pierre                     There can be only one!!!!                             |    

There goes the neighbourhood!   <g Peter

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There goes the neighbourhood!   <g Peter

Uh huh.  I just hope it’s not legal to use food stamps to buy them. Bob

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Have you ever considered the possibility of using a fly rod to cast flys?

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uneloquently put it: Uh huh.  I just hope it’s not legal to use food stamps to buy them. Bob Sorry buddy, I don’t usually flame people but that was a total dick response, even if you were just kidding.  Get a life. Kristina Go UT Lady Vols!!!

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uneloquently put it: Uh huh.  I just hope it’s not legal to use food stamps to buy them. Bob Sorry buddy, I don’t usually flame people but that was a total dick response, even if you were just kidding.  Get a life. Kristina

So what do you mean… that I offended you, and that’s wrong, so you wrote an offensive message to me, and that’s right?  What interesting "standards" you have. Bob Scott

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So what do you mean… that I offended you, and that’s wrong, so you wrote an offensive message to me, and that’s right?  What interesting "standards" you have. Bob Scott

Yes he’s right. Balance has now been restored you dick.

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There is a new product out on the market which allows spinning and spincast anglers to attach a length of fly line to mono and fly fish…has any one tried this product or done this themselves?  Any advice on how to fish doing this? — Pierre                          There can be only one!!!!                              |    

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Question:

Flyfishing for bonefish in the stressfree environment of the Keys in March is the way to spend time for yourself and family. Try your skills on bonefish being caught from 9lbs and up. If you would like to spend a day on the flats, go to http://www.boneranger.com and plan your trip today! Hope to see you on the flats!

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Flyfishing for bonefish in the stressfree environment of the Keys in March is the way to spend time for yourself and family. Try your skills on bonefish being caught from 9lbs and up. If you would like to spend a day on the flats, go to http://www.boneranger.com and plan your trip today! Hope to see you on the flats!

If you can go bonefishing just once in your life, do it. I am trying to get everyone to go, but especially the people that have fish for a life time in fresh water. It is so neat and if you are looking for a way to do it cheap, I can give you some advise. Going with a guide is really the best. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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Question:

Quesion? If I could sell you a $200.00 rod for 115.00, how many takers would I have. I have the opportunity o buy wholesale, but would have to buy quantity. I don’t want to sit on any inventory, but if I could spread the wealth and make 15.00 a rod on 100 rods I’d be perfectly happy. I don’ want to say what brand, bu it is quality.Let me know what you think. please respond by e-mail Have a super day! Please visit us at .www.teleport.com/~aafinart

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : Quesion? If I could sell you a $200.00 rod for 115.00, how many takers : would I have. : I have the opportunity o buy wholesale, but would have to buy quantity. I : don’t want to sit on any inventory, but if I could spread the wealth and : make 15.00 a rod on 100 rods I’d be perfectly happy. I don’ want to say : what brand, bu it is quality.Let me know what you think. : please respond by e-mail Careful what you sell at a discount. Many of the higher brands of rods are price protected by the manufacturor. If they get wind of any discounting, you could wind up with some legal trouble. Jon Porter

Hey Jon, remember the anti trust laws? Price fixing remains illegal, and market price controls by manufacturers is also illegal.  We all know there is a degree of it but the manufactureres reactions can only be the refusal to continue doing business. MSRP is o.k., and direct agents can lose their agencies – but…for the legal sale of legally obtained merchandise pricing remains the sellers option. jg

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It’s because of people like this that small legitimate custom rod builders have problems getting accounts with major brand name companies. Sage for example use to have a great program for rod builders that they droped because to many people would flood the market with wholesale priced blanks. They got smart…we got screwed….This goes along with snaggin thanks Tom Wolf

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Quesion? If I could sell you a $200.00 rod for 115.00, how many takers would I have. I have the opportunity o buy wholesale, but would have to buy quantity. I don’t want to sit on any inventory, but if I could spread the wealth and make 15.00 a rod on 100 rods I’d be perfectly happy. I don’ want to say what brand, bu it is quality.Let me know what you think. please respond by e-mail <<<<<<<<<<< For typical brand name rod, maybe not a Sage or Powell, the discount a distributor gives a retailer off of the so called retail price is at least 50%.  60% or more is not unlikely.  This allows every rod to be sold at both a "discount" and healthy profit.  I have bought 50% off rods from a retailer, and I was pretty sure he wasn’t loosing money. Bill Buchman

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: Careful what you sell at a discount. Many of the higher brands of rods are : price protected by the manufacturor. If they get wind of any discounting, : you could wind up with some legal trouble. : : Jon Porter : Hey Jon, remember the anti trust laws? Price fixing remains illegal, and : market price controls by manufacturers is also illegal.  We all know : there is a degree of it but the manufactureres reactions can only be the : refusal to continue doing business. MSRP is o.k., and direct agents can : lose their agencies – but…for the legal sale of legally obtained : merchandise pricing remains the sellers option. Hope I don’t start a different argument here.  ;-)  My point was that a manufacturor can set the price for his product. This is what happens with some of the big name rod companies. It would be anti-trust if the various companies got together and decided how they were going to set the prices. But that is not what is happening! It’s simply this:  Say, for instance, that SuperFisher Rod company decides to market their product. As a condition for the dealer to sell their product, the dealer has to agree not to discount it. SuperFisher Rod Company makes the exact same deal with all dealers that move their product. This prevents price wars between dealers selling SuperFisher products. It does not prevent Sage from under cutting SuperFisher in price. Their is no "trust" involved between manufacturors, and no price compitition among dealers for that ONE product. Other companies might do the same with their own product; but it is a different line, and a different price. We are having this problem now in my local area. Rumor has it that one dealer is discounting the price on some merchandise that is price protected. This males it impossible for the compeating dealers in the local market to compete. Good for the consumer, black eye for the manufacturor who has that same agreement with everybody. If they find some truth in it, the discounter will no longer receive his product. Jon Porter

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : Quesion? If I could sell you a $200.00 rod for 115.00, how many takers : would I have. : I have the opportunity o buy wholesale, but would have to buy quantity. I : don’t want to sit on any inventory, but if I could spread the wealth and : make 15.00 a rod on 100 rods I’d be perfectly happy. I don’ want to say : what brand, bu it is quality.Let me know what you think. : please respond by e-mail Careful what you sell at a discount. Many of the higher brands of rods are price protected by the manufacturor. If they get wind of any discounting, you could wind up with some legal trouble. Jon Porter Hey Jon, remember the anti trust laws? Price fixing remains illegal, and market price controls by manufacturers is also illegal.  We all know there is a degree of it but the manufactureres reactions can only be the refusal to continue doing business. MSRP is o.k., and direct agents can lose their agencies – but…for the legal sale of legally obtained merchandise pricing remains the sellers option. jg

 I sometimes deal with a sports shop which used to sell sage and other fine blanks at deep discount. No more! He was reported to the mfgr. by another shop and from then on his  blanks were on continuous back-order! Doug

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I wish you were even close to the truth.  Any dealer who is selling ANY rod at 50% off is losing money.  A dealer who is selling any fly rod at 50% off is either stupid AND desperate, or that dealer is dumping(at a loss), a rod because it has been discontinued by the manufacturer, or has been a dog for a couple of years.  Fly fishing businesses can be more than a hobby, and good dealers can make money, but overall margines are very low compared to other industries, and very low compared to the high cost of running a good business.  As for competing with Cabela’s and Bass Pro, it’s actually not that difficult to beat them.  For people who are only shopping for price, those big guys win their share of the battles, but for customers who want the highest quality products and best possible service along with reliable accurate information, a good fly shop beats those guys ever time.  Good fishing, Stephen Vletas

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A fly fishing shop seems like a really tough business to me. The one near me (Cary, NC) went out of business, but it was located in a giant strip mall (Crossroads) that primarily has discount stores. The margins seem high. But how many times do you have to stand in line at the register? Rarely, it seems, and then it is usually only one or two people at most. The traffic is pretty slow. Lots of people pop in to look, maybe buy a few flies for a buck apiece. An occasional higher dollar item like a rod or good waders helps keep them in business. But they are losing a lot of that to Cabela’s and Bass Pro Shops through the mail these days. I have to admit I use mail order to save money many times. A fly shop almost has to be a hobby for the owner. -Andy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – For typical brand name rod, maybe not a Sage or Powell, the discount a distributor gives a retailer off of the so called retail price is at least 50%.  60% or more is not unlikely.  This allows every rod to be sold at both a "discount" and healthy profit.  I have bought 50% off rods from a retailer, and I was pretty sure he wasn’t loosing money.

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Question:

I am a beginning commercial fly tyer.  I have been at it for about a year and I find that one of the slowest aspects of my production tying is that of hair stacking (particularly calf tail/body). Does anyone know of any tools/methods that would serve to make this process more automated when tying large orders?  Any other hints on speed/production tying would be appreciated.

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I am a beginning commercial fly tyer.  I have been at it for about a year and I find that one of the slowest aspects of my production tying is that of hair stacking (particularly calf tail/body). Does anyone know of any tools/methods that would serve to make this process more automated when tying large orders?  Any other hints on speed/production tying would be appreciated.

Hi Mike I’ve been a commercial tiers for 39 years, the last 28 I’ve tied hair wing flies. When I started tying hair wings I purchased 24 hair stackers. When they are loaded I have the makings for a dozen wings and tails and thus a dozen hair wing flies. It really save a lot of time over constantly picking up and laying down the hair as you tie each pattern. It also helps in keeping track of the number of flies completed and only takes about 5 minutes to load them. You should be able to buy the stackers wholesale. If you have trouble finding a source let me know, I can get Griffins hair stackers for you for wholesale prices ($3.30 per each). Good Luck and if you need any additional info. let me know. Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

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I built a hair stacker for a dozen flies. It is simply a board with flat bottom holes bored about 1/2 into the board ( a cabinet shop will be able to do this). I then inserted a collar of copper tubing into the bottom of the whole. The collar allows the stacked end of hair to extend beyond the end of the tube. The tube itself is copper tubing and flared at the end just like a regular hairstacker. The board can be loaded fairly rapidly and all the stacks can be evened by tapping the board on the counter top. I beveled one edge of the board so it can be stood on edge and the tubes are slanted. This allows for easy removal. As Al stated, it also helps keep track of the dozens tied. This is the pits when you are in the middle of 50 dozen size 12 Elk Hair Caddis ** Vic Brockett     <<< I fish therefore I am  ** ** Vic’s Fly-By-Night <<< Read "The River Why" **

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I am a beginning commercial fly tyer.  I have been at it for about a year and I find that one of the slowest aspects of my production tying is that of hair stacking (particularly calf tail/body). Does anyone know of any tools/methods that would serve to make this process more automated when tying large orders?  Any other hints on speed/production tying would be appreciated.

Skip Morris suggests stacking a whole bunch at once, and attaching the tip ends to a piece of masking tape, fold the tape over, then hold the whole deal together with a bulldog clip. Scott Univ. of Rochester Med. Ctr.            Phone(716)275-6399 Dept. of Neurology, Box 605               Fax(716)244-4617 Rochester, NY  14642

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Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <epoxy probs In my dealings with rod wrap and normal epoxy, I have always made several  times the amount necessary.  The reason for this is to reduce the uncertainty  of error in the measurement.  If you’re off .1 ml on .5 ml, that’s 20%, which the manufacturer will tell you is outside the bounds of tolerance for the mixture.  Epoxy is cheap, blanks aren’t.  Increase the amount you make by a factor of three, and the same measurement error won’t hurt. No matter how slowly you stir the epoxy, you’ll still get bubbles. Moreover, you’ll get bubbles merely from air trapped under the threads. What needs to be done is to thin out the epoxy, making your first coat more of a "sealant" rather than a covering. I use 25% resin, 25% hardener (of course) and 50% acetone.  This makes the epoxy water thin.  I make certain the guides are on the bottom of the blank (it’s suspended on each end) — this allows the *slight* excess epoxy to collect in the gap that the thread forms as it passes over the guide foot, essentially locking the guide to the blank. As I drip the epoxy on, I can see the bubbles that come to the surface of the wraps!  It almost foams.  One or two more drips after the foaming stops and all is well. The above information comes from _Advanced Custom Rod Building_, by Dale Clemens. Your humble flyfishing rod-builder, Matt Meola

You know, I never thin my epoxy, and I never have problems with bubbles.  When I mix the epoxy, I get bubbles in the mix, but I apply the epoxy with a decent quality brush, while the rod is turning in the drying motor.  This seems to  brush out the bubbles. I use one of the color preservers as a sealant, so air bubbles from the threads have not been a problem. What one of my woodworking books suggests is that have all the material at a stable temperature is a good idea; that having material that is cold come up to a warmer temperature will cause it to extrude air bubbles as the material comes up in temperature and the air expands. Regards ATB

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For some reason that I don’t profess to understand a hair dryer will remove those bubbles while the epoxy is still fluid. Good luck !

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<epoxy probs In my dealings with rod wrap and normal epoxy, I have always made several  times the amount necessary.  The reason for this is to reduce the uncertainty  of error in the measurement.  If you’re off .1 ml on .5 ml, that’s 20%, which the manufacturer will tell you is outside the bounds of tolerance for the mixture.  Epoxy is cheap, blanks aren’t.  Increase the amount you make by a factor of three, and the same measurement error won’t hurt.

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<epoxy probs In my dealings with rod wrap and normal epoxy, I have always made several  times the amount necessary.  The reason for this is to reduce the uncertainty  of error in the measurement.  If you’re off .1 ml on .5 ml, that’s 20%, which the manufacturer will tell you is outside the bounds of tolerance for the mixture.  Epoxy is cheap, blanks aren’t.  Increase the amount you make by a factor of three, and the same measurement error won’t hurt.

No matter how slowly you stir the epoxy, you’ll still get bubbles. Moreover, you’ll get bubbles merely from air trapped under the threads. What needs to be done is to thin out the epoxy, making your first coat more of a "sealant" rather than a covering. I use 25% resin, 25% hardener (of course) and 50% acetone.  This makes the epoxy water thin.  I make certain the guides are on the bottom of the blank (it’s suspended on each end) — this allows the *slight* excess epoxy to collect in the gap that the thread forms as it passes over the guide foot, essentially locking the guide to the blank. As I drip the epoxy on, I can see the bubbles that come to the surface of the wraps!  It almost foams.  One or two more drips after the foaming stops and all is well. The above information comes from _Advanced Custom Rod Building_, by Dale Clemens. Your humble flyfishing rod-builder, Matt Meola

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I know of no greater disaster in rod building than to apply a poorly- mixed or mis-proportioned batch of epoxy to the finished wraps. (snip) So, I highly recommend using syringes or some other accurate measuring device to ensure good proportions.

(snip) Excellent advice.  I would also add that a *lot* of headaches can be avoided by first testing a batch of epoxy on a section of scrap rod or dowel.  Once you confirm that this batch hardens properly, then mix a batch for application to your rod, making sure you mix in exactly the same proportions as in your test.  The reason is simply that some epoxies have a limited shelf life and will never harden properly when that shelf life is exceeded.  If you’re using an epoxy that you’ve had for a long time, or that (unbeknownst to you) sat on the retailer’s shelf for ages, you could be in for some trouble.  The day or two invested in making the initial test for proper hardening may save you countless hours of grief and cursing later.  An ounce of prevention……     BTW, here are a few tricks I’ve found useful to assure that the epoxy applied to wraps is trouble- and bubble-free.  Do your mixing in a shot glass which has a round bottom inside; the lack of "corners" in the container helps assure *complete* mixing.  Use a long dubbing needle to do the mixing; stir slowly and carefully to avoid carrying bubbles down into the epoxy.  Apply to the rotating rod with a small, flat camel-hair brush, again slowly and carefully, to avoid trapping bubbles.  Finally, to get rid of the inevitable few bubbles that will still sneak into your application, breath a moist film of condensation onto the epoxy; as this (quickly) dries, the bubbles will pop (apparently an effect of differential surface tension between the fluids).  Pricking the bubbles with a needle is less effective and takes longer; I use it only as a last resort, or to move a bubble to a location where I can breathe the life out of it . Brian Tucholke

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I know of no greater disaster in rod building than to apply a poorly- mixed or mis-proportioned batch of epoxy to the finished wraps. Perhaps the only thing that could be worse would be to slip and fall on the blank; thus  snapping it in half. At least in that case, the pain and suffering would subside relatively quickly. (You would simply accept the consequences and shell out a couple hundred $$ or so for a new blank.) Whereas, in the case of putting a bad mix of epoxy on the wraps, the poor results will torment and gnaw at you for hours, days, or even longer. The stuff will never dry; it’s impossible to clean completely off the blank and/or wraps; and it will stick to whatever it touches as if it were the devil’s own snot! I was compelled to stand on the above soapbox by my second such run-in with a bad mix of epoxy which happened to me a few days ago. (Please don’t ask me about the first – I’m *still* agonizing over that one!) This was a case in which I had already laid down a good coat of epoxy on the wraps which had dried beautifully, and I just needed to dot the base of each guide foot with a drop of epoxy to seal them from water penetration. I didn’t have much time, so I thought I’d be cool and just pour the resin and hardener into the mixing cup from their respective bottles and eyeball the amounts to ensure the proper proportions…         WRONGO!!! After two solid days of spinning on the rod drier, the drops were the consistency of honey on a very cold day and every bit as difficult to work with. So, I slaved for hours using an X-acto knife as a spatula to spoon the useless stuff off the guide feet, ruined everything I came into contact with with the sticky glop on my fingers, and generally ended up hating life. The good news is that I was able to get most of the bad stuff off the guide feet and apply a good batch of epoxy in it’s place. But the bad news is the many hours of lost time and the numerous demerits I got from my wife for swearing in the house. What’s even worse is how totally avoidable this situation was. Without wishing to pontificate, please let me offer that it is incredibly easy to get a good mix of epoxy if you simply follow the manufacturers instructions to the letter. (I’ve done so on many occasions.) On the other hand, it’s also incredibly easy to screw it up if you try to cut corners and rush things. In the case I mention above, my error was in thinking I could get the proportions right by just pouring straight from the bottles and eyeballing the amounts. This turned out to be a huge mistake; I took my time and mixed the stuff thoroughly, but was dead from the start because of the mis-proportions I got from pouring from the bottles. So, I highly recommend using syringes or some other accurate measuring device to ensure good proportions. In conclusion, I refer to this article as "revisited" because I know there have been many others who have struggled with this very problem many times in the past, and there will be many others who struggle with it again in the future. I simply hope my rod building disaster story is both entertaining and informative to anyone who is involved in rod building now or who might be interested in getting into rod building at some point in the future. To those of you; may you always mix your epoxy with confidence – but *carefully*! Regards, Fred Templin  

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Quoting roccus609 from a message in rec.outdoors.fishing.fly     For some reason that I don’t profess to understand a hair dryer will     remove those bubbles while the epoxy is still fluid. Good luck ! The heat causes the bubbles to rise to the surface and pop.  There are several small alcohol lamps available that are more precise than using a hair drier. Jim in Southern California `[1;31;43mRainbow V 1.06 for Delphi – Registered

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A suggestion was made to use a small alcohol lamp t provide the heat to get the bubbles out of the flex coat.  Be careful!  That stuff is flammable. I simply exhale into the container with the epoxy and the bubbles largely dissapear.  All that is left are a few tiny bubbles that disappear if the epoxy is applied smoothly to a rotating rod.                                               Dallas, TX                                               Ennis, MT

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   Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly    Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)    A suggestion was made to use a small alcohol lamp t provide the heat to    get the bubbles out of the flex coat.  Be careful!  That stuff is    flammable. Indeed — moreover, I believe that adding heat to epoxy will accelerate the curing reaction.  Those who heat their epoxy may find the working time diminished, somewhat.  (This information actually comes from some experience in the world of RC modeling…) — Matt Meola NRA Life, Militiaman Don’t tread on me. http://usa.net/~gaulj/Home.html

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Regarding getting rid of the bubbles, a heat gun works better than a hair dryer and and alcohol lamp.  Take short, close swipes and as the epoxy thins brush t e drips away.  Contact me with any other questions re: rod building!

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Hi: I find it is much easier to use a very soft lintless cloth dampened with warm denatures alcohol works even better than a alcohol flame in removing bubbles from a finish. It is very important that the alcohol be at 90 deg to 110 deg and that the cloth is only damp and not wet. Wipe in line with the grain, and only wipe lightly. I also find that finish will not create bubbles if the cane is cold and the finish is warm. I find that dipping at a rate of 1 inch in 30 seconds on dipping and 1 inch in 2 minutes on withdraw will create an almost perfect finish. I use a #110 spar that is heated to 80 deg +/- 5 deg is probably the best finish I have found for proper rod  protection. Catch you later Mike Taylor  (Detruncus1) on AOL

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