Question:

For Sale: Ted Williams Sears Ice chest in original box with price tag and booklets. Taking offers. For photos please visit: http://205.160.242.2/~xenopus/tedwilliams.htm

Response:

For Sale: Ted Williams Sears Ice chest in original box with price tag and booklets. Taking offers. For photos please visit: http://205.160.242.2/~xenopus/tedwilliams.htm

That’s fucking twisted, son…

Response:

That’s fucking twisted, son…

NO, HE SAID IT WAS *ALUMINUM*, NOT "TWISTED, SON."   HTH. <g — Warren change addy to yahoo for email Henry’s Fork Clave info and Bozeman, MT fishing info http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt3/HFclave.html

Response:

That’s fucking twisted, son…

<snipped Was just watching the news and heard……. twisted indeed. — Warren change addy to yahoo for email Henry’s Fork Clave info and Bozeman, MT fishing info http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt3/HFclave.html

Response:

For Sale: Ted Williams Sears Ice chest in original box with price tag and booklets. Taking offers. For photos please visit: http://205.160.242.2/~xenopus/tedwilliams.htm

        damn you, vern, you have no mercy!! wayno

Response:

For Sale: Ted Williams Sears Ice chest in original box with price tag and booklets. Taking offers. For photos please visit: http://205.160.242.2/~xenopus/tedwilliams.htm That’s fucking twisted, son…

Maybe, but the man knows his frogs.  You run a good service, burley. Scott

Response:

Not as bad as selling DNA though….. Clark

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – For Sale: Ted Williams Sears Ice chest in original box with price tag and booklets. Taking offers. For photos please visit: http://205.160.242.2/~xenopus/tedwilliams.htm That’s fucking twisted, son… Maybe, but the man knows his frogs.  You run a good service, burley. Scott

Response:

If your interested, I could put you on to a Td Williams fly fishing outfit from sears…..never been used…. john

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – For Sale: Ted Williams Sears Ice chest in original box with price tag and booklets. Taking offers. For photos please visit: http://205.160.242.2/~xenopus/tedwilliams.htm

Response:

Question:

Can anyone give me some advice on a fly fishing life vest or personal floatation device? I’m interested in a model I can wear under my fishing vest when wading a river. I already purchased a standard vest, so hopefully the response isn’t to buy a vest with a floatation ballon built in (if they even manufacture something like that). What do people use when wading a river? Obviously, price isn’t really an issue… Thanks, Ryan

Response:

http://www.sospenders.com/models.html Look about halfway down the screen. I’d go with a manual (pull the lanyard) model. /daytripper (standard disclaimers apply) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Can anyone give me some advice on a fly fishing life vest or personal floatation device? I’m interested in a model I can wear under my fishing vest when wading a river. I already purchased a standard vest, so hopefully the response isn’t to buy a vest with a floatation ballon built in (if they even manufacture something like that). What do people use when wading a river? Obviously, price isn’t really an issue… Thanks, Ryan

Response:

Cabela’s and Pro Bass carry the Sospenders.  I got mine from Orvis a couple of years ago when the sold out at 50% off.  These things are great for tubing as you don’t even know they are on.  I think they have two sizes and the smaller is ok for most applications. DP

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can anyone give me some advice on a fly fishing life vest or personal floatation device? I’m interested in a model I can wear under my fishing vest when wading a river. I already purchased a standard vest, so hopefully the response isn’t to buy a vest with a floatation ballon built in (if they even manufacture something like that). What do people use when wading a river? Obviously, price isn’t really an issue… Thanks, Ryan

Response:

Question:

Are there any websites that show step-by-step PICTURES or better yet mpeg movie showing the double haul in action???

http://www.mysportsguru.com/CDA/Article/0,1093,1-1007-1672-2007,00.html is one. — Charlie…

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 5)  There are three forward motions that must be in unison for the double haul.         a)  The rod hand that moves forward, toward the front of the ear.                 1) This is the move that removes line slack behind the caster.         b)  The turn over of the wrist.         c)  The haul that occurs DURING the instant the wrist starts to turn over DURING the simultaneous forward thrust of the fist. In other words, the hand comes forward and as you pass your ear, the thumb starts to turn over, driving the bend of the rod farther into the butt at the same instant the haul is applied which drives all the power farther into the butt which collects more power, bending the rod even more. Here is where a micro-second is required to hold onto the fly line and not releasing it just then.  The haul hand comes down and time is allowed in the fly rod to increase the line speed.  As soon as the tip of the fly rod is about forward, the haul hand releases the fly line . . . and you let her fly! HINT:  Keep the tip higher than you normally do for maximum distance. There is more, but this is as simple as I can make it right now.  One demo is worth a thousand words. But!  Let us all remember that fly lines are really weak rubber bands and stretching a fly line out first is paramount so one can make it as tight as possible before you can really increase fly line speed properly. Hope some of this helps, and yes, there is a difference between the single haul and the double haul.

Are there any websites that show step-by-step PICTURES or better yet mpeg movie showing the double haul in action??? Thanks in advance, dave

Response:

I believe you misspelled pathology. Wolfgang

As with your foot in mouth posts?  A Pathobiology fact noted by many Roffians regarding your off subject howlings? hummmm?  Casting is a pathology quirk, eh? guilty. — Mr.G. http://www.gink.com/shopcart/index.html     fine bamboo flyrods & blanks

Response:

______  You’re a hard working man Bill and deserve the best in all things.  Plan on meeting me in Montana this year if you can find a ten day slot.  My last stint at the Mayo Clinic and after hours in the operating room, is a wonderful success.  I’m indeed a fortunate man. Again, Happy New Year Bill. George – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi George and the rest of you wonderful ROFFers out there, I am here in Nor Cal in my old boxer shorts with a cup of coffee. I have to go into the shop this morning after a couple of days off. Had a nice Christmas with the family. I hope you are all feeling strong and healthy. I hope 2001 is a great year for you all. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com I have a break here today, in between Morning Presents and a beautiful turkey with all the fixings soon to be presented to many friends and relatives.  It is clear here today, crisp and bright as geese fly up and down the river looking for fresh graze. From the Book of Gink: AXIOMS 1)  There is only one thing that determines how far anyone can cast.  It is called, "Line Speed."  The greater the line speed the farther one can cast. 2)  Fly lines, like rubber bands, stretch.  As long as this slack remains (WITHIN Fly lines) while fly casting, energy is required to remove it.  That which is required to do so do NOT increase the line speed until the stretch is removed in all fly lines.  The tighter the line, the greater the line speed can be applied into a tightly taunt line. 3)  The greatest power that can be applied to a fly line is in the potential energy stored in the butt section of all fly rods.  Getting to that power is the question.  How do we do that? 4)  Fly rods are also fulcrums.  If one half a fly rod, from the tip to the mid section is bent during the forward cast, any applied power beyond these forward power curves is not unlike a long pole under a big rock with the fulcrum moved CLOSER to the weight.  In this case, the butt section! 5)  There are three forward motions that must be in unison for the double haul. a)  The rod hand that moves forward, toward the front of the ear. 1) This is the move that removes line slack behind the caster. b)  The turn over of the wrist. c)  The haul that occurs DURING the instant the wrist starts to turn over DURING the simultaneous forward thrust of the fist. In other words, the hand comes forward and as you pass your ear, the thumb starts to turn over, driving the bend of the rod farther into the butt at the same instant the haul is applied which drives all the power farther into the butt which collects more power, bending the rod even more. Here is where a micro-second is required to hold onto the fly line and not releasing it just then.  The haul hand comes down and time is allowed in the fly rod to increase the line speed.  As soon as the tip of the fly rod is about forward, the haul hand releases the fly line . . . and you let her fly! HINT:  Keep the tip higher than you normally do for maximum distance. There is more, but this is as simple as I can make it right now.  One demo is worth a thousand words. But!  Let us all remember that fly lines are really weak rubber bands and stretching a fly line out first is paramount so one can make it as tight as possible before you can really increase fly line speed properly. Hope some of this helps, and yes, there is a difference between the single haul and the double haul. Merry Christmas. — Mr.G. http://www.gink.com/shopcart/index.html     fine bamboo flyrods & blanks

– Mr.G. http://www.gink.com/shopcart/index.html     fine bamboo flyrods & blanks

Response:

Steve is a marvelous teacher and instructor.   I can’t count the number of times he would watch me cast at a show and point out some new quirk I had picked up.

Big deal, we’ve been pointing out your quirks – old and new – for years. Not much of a challenge, either…

Response:

I believe you misspelled pathology. Wolfgang always glad to be of service

Response:

Tony, Don’t forget that loop size also determines how far the cast will go. Ernie "Tony Bishop" wrote <snip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There is only one thing that determines how far anyone can cast, it is called **line acceleration** the rate of change in line speed. Tony Bishop

Response:

Hello, I chanced upon a reference to a scientific paper which might be of interest to those technically inclined: John Robson The Physics of Flycasting American Journal of Physics, 1990 I made a note of it but have not looked for it in a library and read it (yet) so I don’t know if it is relevant to your discussion. Regards, Yuji Sakuma – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – George, I pretty much agree with all you said, except the very first point, I rthink it should read: There is only one thing that determines how far anyone can cast, it is called **line acceleration** the rate of change in line speed. Loading the rod, using haul(s), wrist snaps, etc. evrything you and others have listed, all should contribute to increasing line acceleration during the casting stroke. If the line is not accelerating at the end of the casting stroke and when the rod unloads, the line will immediately begin to fall. I find that once a client understands feeling the weight on the backcast, and then adds the little tweaks on the way to the end of the casting stroke, the quicker they learn to maiximise distance and accuracy. Just by the by, I rarely use a double haul, only occasionally using a single haul, and that is when using 9 weights in the big rivers with big flies or heavy nymphs, or in the saltwater. And leaving my modesty behind I can toss out most of a flyline when I have to, without hauling. I go along with Lefty Kreh who said something along the lines of, hauling and such too often teaches someone to cast their mistakes further. — Tony Bishop  New Zealand http://bishfish.co.nz

Response:

There’s other things than line speed that effect distance, such as aerodynamics. e.g.  It’s easy to cast a number 20 GRHE than a bundel of flank feathers.  You also have differences in  changes in Center of Gravity (tight loop vs. open loop) to name a few.  Also the forward and backward motion of the shoulder plays a big part. Lou – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a break here today, in between Morning Presents and a beautiful turkey with all the fixings soon to be presented to many friends and relatives.  It is clear here today, crisp and bright as geese fly up and down the river looking for fresh graze. From the Book of Gink: AXIOMS 1)  There is only one thing that determines how far anyone can cast.  It is called, "Line Speed."  The greater the line speed the farther one can cast. 2)  Fly lines, like rubber bands, stretch.  As long as this slack remains (WITHIN Fly lines) while fly casting, energy is required to remove it.  That which is required to do so do NOT increase the line speed until the stretch is removed in all fly lines.  The tighter the line, the greater the line speed can be applied into a tightly taunt line. 3)  The greatest power that can be applied to a fly line is in the potential energy stored in the butt section of all fly rods.  Getting to that power is the question.  How do we do that? 4)  Fly rods are also fulcrums.  If one half a fly rod, from the tip to the mid section is bent during the forward cast, any applied power beyond these forward power curves is not unlike a long pole under a big rock with the fulcrum moved CLOSER to the weight.  In this case, the butt section! 5)  There are three forward motions that must be in unison for the double haul. a)  The rod hand that moves forward, toward the front of the ear. 1) This is the move that removes line slack behind the caster. b)  The turn over of the wrist. c)  The haul that occurs DURING the instant the wrist starts to turn over DURING the simultaneous forward thrust of the fist. In other words, the hand comes forward and as you pass your ear, the thumb starts to turn over, driving the bend of the rod farther into the butt at the same instant the haul is applied which drives all the power farther into the butt which collects more power, bending the rod even more. Here is where a micro-second is required to hold onto the fly line and not releasing it just then.  The haul hand comes down and time is allowed in the fly rod to increase the line speed.  As soon as the tip of the fly rod is about forward, the haul hand releases the fly line . . . and you let her fly! HINT:  Keep the tip higher than you normally do for maximum distance. There is more, but this is as simple as I can make it right now.  One demo is worth a thousand words. But!  Let us all remember that fly lines are really weak rubber bands and stretching a fly line out first is paramount so one can make it as tight as possible before you can really increase fly line speed properly. Hope some of this helps, and yes, there is a difference between the single haul and the double haul. Merry Christmas. — Mr.G. http://www.gink.com/shopcart/index.html     fine bamboo flyrods & blanks

Response:

Hi George and the rest of you wonderful ROFFers out there, I am here in Nor Cal in my old boxer shorts with a cup of coffee. I have to go into the shop this morning after a couple of days off. Had a nice Christmas with the family. I hope you are all feeling strong and healthy. I hope 2001 is a great year for you all. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a break here today, in between Morning Presents and a beautiful turkey with all the fixings soon to be presented to many friends and relatives.  It is clear here today, crisp and bright as geese fly up and down the river looking for fresh graze. From the Book of Gink: AXIOMS 1)  There is only one thing that determines how far anyone can cast.  It is called, "Line Speed."  The greater the line speed the farther one can cast. 2)  Fly lines, like rubber bands, stretch.  As long as this slack remains (WITHIN Fly lines) while fly casting, energy is required to remove it.  That which is required to do so do NOT increase the line speed until the stretch is removed in all fly lines.  The tighter the line, the greater the line speed can be applied into a tightly taunt line. 3)  The greatest power that can be applied to a fly line is in the potential energy stored in the butt section of all fly rods.  Getting to that power is the question.  How do we do that? 4)  Fly rods are also fulcrums.  If one half a fly rod, from the tip to the mid section is bent during the forward cast, any applied power beyond these forward power curves is not unlike a long pole under a big rock with the fulcrum moved CLOSER to the weight.  In this case, the butt section! 5)  There are three forward motions that must be in unison for the double haul. a)  The rod hand that moves forward, toward the front of the ear. 1) This is the move that removes line slack behind the caster. b)  The turn over of the wrist. c)  The haul that occurs DURING the instant the wrist starts to turn over DURING the simultaneous forward thrust of the fist. In other words, the hand comes forward and as you pass your ear, the thumb starts to turn over, driving the bend of the rod farther into the butt at the same instant the haul is applied which drives all the power farther into the butt which collects more power, bending the rod even more. Here is where a micro-second is required to hold onto the fly line and not releasing it just then.  The haul hand comes down and time is allowed in the fly rod to increase the line speed.  As soon as the tip of the fly rod is about forward, the haul hand releases the fly line . . . and you let her fly! HINT:  Keep the tip higher than you normally do for maximum distance. There is more, but this is as simple as I can make it right now.  One demo is worth a thousand words. But!  Let us all remember that fly lines are really weak rubber bands and stretching a fly line out first is paramount so one can make it as tight as possible before you can really increase fly line speed properly. Hope some of this helps, and yes, there is a difference between the single haul and the double haul. Merry Christmas. — Mr.G. http://www.gink.com/shopcart/index.html     fine bamboo flyrods & blanks

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – George, I pretty much agree with all you said, except the very first point, I rthink it should read: There is only one thing that determines how far anyone can cast, it is called **line acceleration** the rate of change in line speed. Loading the rod, using haul(s), wrist snaps, etc. evrything you and others have listed, all should contribute to increasing line acceleration during the casting stroke. If the line is not accelerating at the end of the casting stroke and when the rod unloads, the line will immediately begin to fall. I find that once a client understands feeling the weight on the backcast, and then adds the little tweaks on the way to the end of the casting stroke, the quicker they learn to maiximise distance and accuracy. Just by the by, I rarely use a double haul, only occasionally using a single haul, and that is when using 9 weights in the big rivers with big flies or heavy nymphs, or in the saltwater. And leaving my modesty behind I can toss out most of a flyline when I have to, without hauling. I go along with Lefty Kreh who said something along the lines of, hauling and such too often teaches someone to cast their mistakes further. — Tony Bishop  New Zealand http://bishfish.co.nz

that has more casting mistakes than any of them and frankly, shouldn’t be teaching casting until he gets his errors corrected by a master. However; Lefty is very popular but it is no excuse to promote incorrect casting techniques.  I like Lefty, but there is a limit to condoning the public’s jaundiced eye.  Much better teachers are probably everyone else that does so in the industry but the best of the lot, in my opinion is D.Swisher.  Another is E. Schwiebert if and when he is available, but the best in the world is Steve Rajif.  This is the man Kreh all fly casting teachers should see on occasion.  Steve is a marvelous teacher and instructor.  I can’t count the number of times he would watch me cast at a show and point out some new quirk I had picked up. By the way, there is going to be a FLY FISHING SHOW IN DENVER this coming January, on the 6th & 7th.  I plan to be there with a booth.   — Mr.G. http://www.gink.com/shopcart/index.html     fine bamboo flyrods & blanks

Response:

George, I pretty much agree with all you said, except the very first point, I rthink it should read: There is only one thing that determines how far anyone can cast, it is called **line acceleration** the rate of change in line speed. Loading the rod, using haul(s), wrist snaps, etc. evrything you and others have listed, all should contribute to increasing line acceleration during the casting stroke. If the line is not accelerating at the end of the casting stroke and when the rod unloads, the line will immediately begin to fall. I find that once a client understands feeling the weight on the backcast, and then adds the little tweaks on the way to the end of the casting stroke, the quicker they learn to maiximise distance and accuracy. Just by the by, I rarely use a double haul, only occasionally using a single haul, and that is when using 9 weights in the big rivers with big flies or heavy nymphs, or in the saltwater. And leaving my modesty behind I can toss out most of a flyline when I have to, without hauling. I go along with Lefty Kreh who said something along the lines of, hauling and such too often teaches someone to cast their mistakes further. — Tony Bishop  New Zealand http://bishfish.co.nz

Response:

I have a break here today, in between Morning Presents and a beautiful turkey with all the fixings soon to be presented to many friends and relatives.  It is clear here today, crisp and bright as geese fly up and down the river looking for fresh graze. From the Book of Gink: AXIOMS 1)  There is only one thing that determines how far anyone can cast.  It is called, "Line Speed."  The greater the line speed the farther one can cast. 2)  Fly lines, like rubber bands, stretch.  As long as this slack remains (WITHIN Fly lines) while fly casting, energy is required to remove it.  That which is required to do so do NOT increase the line speed until the stretch is removed in all fly lines.  The tighter the line, the greater the line speed can be applied into a tightly taunt line. 3)  The greatest power that can be applied to a fly line is in the potential energy stored in the butt section of all fly rods.  Getting to that power is the question.  How do we do that? 4)  Fly rods are also fulcrums.  If one half a fly rod, from the tip to the mid section is bent during the forward cast, any applied power beyond these forward power curves is not unlike a long pole under a big rock with the fulcrum moved CLOSER to the weight.  In this case, the butt section! 5)  There are three forward motions that must be in unison for the double haul.         a)  The rod hand that moves forward, toward the front of the ear.                 1) This is the move that removes line slack behind the caster.         b)  The turn over of the wrist.         c)  The haul that occurs DURING the instant the wrist starts to turn over DURING the simultaneous forward thrust of the fist.   In other words, the hand comes forward and as you pass your ear, the thumb starts to turn over, driving the bend of the rod farther into the butt at the same instant the haul is applied which drives all the power farther into the butt which collects more power, bending the rod even more. Here is where a micro-second is required to hold onto the fly line and not releasing it just then.  The haul hand comes down and time is allowed in the fly rod to increase the line speed.  As soon as the tip of the fly rod is about forward, the haul hand releases the fly line . . . and you let her fly! HINT:  Keep the tip higher than you normally do for maximum distance. There is more, but this is as simple as I can make it right now.  One demo is worth a thousand words. But!  Let us all remember that fly lines are really weak rubber bands and stretching a fly line out first is paramount so one can make it as tight as possible before you can really increase fly line speed properly. Hope some of this helps, and yes, there is a difference between the single haul and the double haul. Merry Christmas. — Mr.G. http://www.gink.com/shopcart/index.html     fine bamboo flyrods & blanks

Response:

Question:

Don’t tell me that all of us haven’t told the occaisional little fib about where the good fishing is from time to time to keep a good spot to ourselves, or at least keep the crowd down a little. Fisherman have had a reputation for being outrageous liars since man started using worms for bait and I know we haven’t come down out of that tree yet. I have told my share in the past and i can pretty much guarantee that I will continue to do so, especially as my favorite spots become more and more crowded. Sure, the mob scene on the tailwaters can be fun, the fish still outnumber the people on most of them, but a guy has to be alone in the mountains every once in a while. John Before you buy.

Response:

Actually although not specific, these are my close in favorites. As for fishermen lying, I’m sorry but I have no reason to lie. I actually fished a lake where the bass averaged over ten pounds(had to spool a zebco 404 with35lb test to hold them out from pilings. One bass I caught out of that lake had to have his tail bent to go in a freezer door after beheading. Unfortunately the state of Florida deemed it a dieing lake and drew it down. I caught Stump knockers out of  it on the fly. I had to use a 5wt. they went 1 to 2 pounds. Right now the speck (crappy) minimum limit is 12" for Lake Monroe. If you choose not to believe it so be it. John Popp in Sanford Fl. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Don’t tell me that all of us haven’t told the occaisional little fib about where the good fishing is from time to time to keep a good spot to ourselves, or at least keep the crowd down a little. Fisherman have had a reputation for being outrageous liars since man started using worms for bait and I know we haven’t come down out of that tree yet. I have told my share in the past and i can pretty much guarantee that I will continue to do so, especially as my favorite spots become more and more crowded. Sure, the mob scene on the tailwaters can be fun, the fish still outnumber the people on most of them, but a guy has to be alone in the mountains every once in a while. John Before you buy.

Response:

Question:

Vern, You may want to check out a Loomis GL4.  I am told that it is has a very similar action to the top of the line GLX (my rod), but at half the price ($250?).  I just somehow broke the tip on mine (a 5wt), and after inspection Loomis supplied a new tip section absolutely free.  I love this rod–very light, fast, with plenty of backbone.   Good shopping (Christmas is fast approaching), Pat K

Response:

Surely driving over it the same side a few more times would have allowed him to shoot round corners?!! David – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My cousin an I were jump shooting ducks in some ponds down by the ocean. After we left I noticed my cousin’s old single shot 12 gauge wasn’t in the jeep.  We went back and it lay in the sand with tire tracks over the barrel. The barrel had a slight bend in it so I told my cousin to drive the jeep over it again while held it with the bent side up.  It worked and he hunted with that old gun for several years after that. Ernie Harrison Want to make tapered leaders?  http://home.pacbell.net/ernie2 I did something similar when I was a kid, but Dad’s casting rod was made of steel and was bent something awful.I still remember the look in some of my friends faces when I told them that all Dad said was "Well did you learn anything?"

Response:

If it were me, I would contact the manufacturer. I have found most rod companies to be very sympathetic to accidents, especially if you tell them the truth about how it was broken. Usually not on a fish. Good luck.

Response:

buddies. I did something similar when I was a kid, but Dad’s casting rod was made of steel and was bent something awful.I still remember the look in some of my friends faces when I told them that all Dad said was "Well did you learn anything?"   Big Dale

Response:

<snipped Ugh, I remember doing that… Waaaaaay back when I got my first fly rod I tried to learn it all by my self and I had a Diawa Cherrywood Series rod. It was fairly light (About a 4-5 if I had to guess now) and I sure did not know how to use the thing. I ended up shutting the door on the tip and snapping it off. That was the end of that rod for me. Now I think I probably would try to re-tip it. That story also sends shudders through me as I am taking my five year old daughter out fishing once in a while and I will certainly keep that story in mind to make me more cautious! Hope it works out! Michael Era

Question:

Going to fish the Upper Kern River (between Kernville and Johnsondale) in California over Thanksgiving.  I have never fished this water before and would appreciate any suggestions regarding fly patterns and fishing locations. Thanks in advance, Kirk

Response:

Kirk, Every Thanksgiving I go over the hill and through the woods to my Grandmother’s house in Lake Isabella.  And I always try to do a little fishing on the Kern while I’m there.  I find it to be pretty tough fishing at that time of year and I have yet to discover what pattern works and what the best place to fish is in the section of the river you’ll be fishing. There’s a fly shop in Kernville where the road crossing the river T’s into north/south route that parallels the river on its eastern side.  You might try dropping in there for info. Generally, I have had better luck by hiking in a couple miles above the Johnsondale bridge and working my way upstream from there.  You might try a dry they call the "Kern Special" in the store I mentioned above.  It’s basically a royal wulff but with a green waist instead of a red one. —                                                       -dnc- KIRK BANNERMAN wrote – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Going to fish the Upper Kern River (between Kernville and Johnsondale) in California over Thanksgiving.  …

Response:

what a co-inky-dink! California FlyFisher (Oct 98) has an article on this stretch of water! Might want to pick up a copy B4U go. Larry #:)#

Response:

Question:

I recently heard the strippers are being caught off the beach in New Jersey?  Can that be true.  I am in Delaware and I figure if N.J. has them we should also, but no one tries for them.  Help!! crit

Response:

on feb 22, critter writes: I recently heard the strippers are being caught off the beach in New Jersey?  Can that be true.  I am in Delaware and I figure if N.J. has them we should also, but no one tries for them.  Help!! crit

I’ve heard the same,     I heard that a 50 pounder was taken, but I just had a brain freeze and I can’t rember where it was. I also heard that there’s been some taken in the back bays.  A guy I fish with in the fall says he’s been getting strippers all winter (in a spot that I won’t disclose, cause he’ll fillet me, but i’ll tell you that it’s south of AC) I also heard a rumor that someone is building a pier at that power plant at the pay bridge on rt 9 (another brain freeze, I can’t remember the name of the power plant) anyhow thats a good spot for stippers. I’m going tuesday to the sea isle/avalon area,  I’ll start in the back, then I’ll work the jettys.  I’ll post if I do anything. KV

Response:

May check out your spelling…Although catching "strippers" could be fun, your wife or girlfriend might get annoyed! says… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I recently heard the strippers are being caught off the beach in New Jersey?  Can that be true.  I am in Delaware and I figure if N.J. has them we should also, but no one tries for them.  Help!! crit

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Stripers are normally caught in the surf.  Strippers are normally seen in sleezy clubs while drinking beer after a hard day of fishing. Curtis H. Nugent, M.P.S. Junior Warden New Providence Lodge F&AM, Nr. 128 Maryville, Tennessee, USA

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I recently heard the strippers are being caught off the beach in New Jersey?  Can that be true.  I am in Delaware and I figure if N.J. has them we should also, but no one tries for them.  Help!! crit

Check out WWW.BettyandNicks.com  They are a bait and tackle shop in Seaside, NJ and put out a nice web site.  They’ve been know to exagerate just a wee bit.   No many people are fishing for them in Jersey either! The Spring bite will start in a few weeks. Lenny

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There have been scattered reports all winter of a few schoolie sized bass being taken form the NJ surf. We’ve been lucky that we’ve had a relatively mild winter and the water temperatures never really got too cold. A friend of mine has also been doing fairly well the schoolie sized bass to 21 inches in the lower Hudson River. Myself I really wont actively start fishing for stripers til the middle of April in the Shrewsbury River,the south side of Raritan Bay and off the tip of Sandy Hook

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aCTUALLY, I HAVE DONE IT IN mASSACHUSETTS AND IT IS EASY, IF THERE IS NOT A LOT OF WIND. I HAVE FRIENDS WHO FISH BLOCK ISLAND IN THE  FALL AND THEY SLAY THEM WITH FLIES FROM MYSTIC BAY FLY COMPANY.  CALL ME IF I CAN BY OF FURTHER ASSISTANCE.                                            NEVILLE CUTTING                                            CUTTING LOOSE FISHING                                           EXPEDITIONS                                            800-533-4746

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Question:

Happy New Year to all my fellow Fisher-people. This light spinning tackle inshore salt water fisherman is ready to learn how to fish with a fly rod. I am looking for a 9ft 8wt fly rod that will be my learning rod. My question then is… How good are Cabela’s saltwater Fly rod blanks? How Bout the SL or FT blanks? How would these compare to the GLoomis GL3 blanks? Or is there a better route to take, maybe a fly rod combo set-up for saltwater. What do I need to look for when picking out a fly reel? Is there one type/model/construction/drag that would be advantageous over another? Thanks, Jay

Jay I can’t talk about Cabela’s, I don’t use their stuff, but I have used a Loomis GL3 8/9 weight 9 foot megataper saltwater rod for the past two years.  Unlike other salties, it has a soft tip that makes it useful for salmon, steelhead, bass, pike etc. (my type of fishing.) The usual salty is a broomstick, designed to put a lot of leverage on a fish.  Generally, they are brute force canons capable of great distances but pathetic to cast with any finesse.  They don’t really begin to load until you’ve got 30-40 foot of line beyond the tiptop. The GL3 8/9 is an exception, capable of delicate short casts, yet can match distance with any of them. Good diameter butt section for strength.  Very light, which is very important at the end of a long day.  At 3.85 ounces, there are 6 and 7 weights that weigh more. I was recently fishing for steelhead with another fishermen who was using an Orvis Trident salty.  He fishes salt frequently, and he made the same comments to me, as we compared rods.  I found his rod difficult to cast well, probably would be very difficult for a beginner.  On the other hand, my GL3 8/9 feels like a nice trout 6 weight, very easy to cast. A good reel match for the GL3 8/9 is the Lamson 3.5.  Tough reel, good drag, balances out the GL3 8/9 beautifully, tons of room for backing. Peter

Response:

Happy New Year to all my fellow Fisher-people. This light spinning tackle inshore salt water fisherman is ready to learn how to fish with a fly rod. I am looking for a 9ft 8wt fly rod that will be my learning rod. My question then is… How good are Cabela’s saltwater Fly rod blanks? How Bout the SL or FT blanks? How would these compare to the GLoomis GL3 blanks? Or is there a better route to take, maybe a fly rod combo set-up for saltwater. What do I need to look for when picking out a fly reel? Is there one type/model/construction/drag that would be advantageous over another? Thanks, Jay

I know I’ll eat some flames for this but I would recommend getting one of the Orvis Clearwater combos.  I think the 8wt goes for about $180.00 and it is ready to fish.  I own one and it casts nice, and can double as a steelhead/salmon rod when you are in the mood. -John —        My Policy is to ALWAYS Blame the Computer

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Anything Cabela’s sells is usually very good and they give you a 100% satisfaction guaranty.   Joel Axelrad

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Happy New Year to all my fellow Fisher-people.  This light spinning tackle inshore salt water fisherman is ready to learn how to fish with a fly rod. I am looking for a 9ft 8wt fly rod that will be my learning rod. My question then is… How good are Cabela’s saltwater Fly rod blanks? How Bout the SL or FT blanks? How would these compare to the GLoomis GL3 blanks? Or is there a better route to take, maybe a fly rod combo set-up for saltwater. What do I need to look for when picking out a fly reel? Is there one type/model/construction/drag that would be advantageous over another? Thanks, Jay

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Question:

: While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I : have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey : those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The : questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod : for small to medium western rivers: : : 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which : manufacturers offer these designs? : : 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. : : 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis : GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad : experiences with these rods? : : 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? : : Thanks. : :       IMHO the Loomis GL3, 9 ft., 5 wt., 4 pc. travel rod is the : best value in those you mention. It is without peer as a casting : machine – the reason you use a fly rod in the first and only place. It : is extremely well built, has a life time warranty for defects – and in : my experience – a very liberal interperation of what defect is. The : Sage is a close second in choice – the other two are not worth : considering along side the Loomis and Sage. :       I am a custom rod builder and all of my rods are G. Loomis : IMX, and mostly 4 pc. now. For the high price end you will not go : wrong with a Loomis GL3 or the GL4 coming out to replace the IMX. : Also, if you are looking at high end, check out the Thomas & Thomas : Heritage series designed by Gary Borger. These are very nice casting : tools. I think this, and every other thread like it demonstrates one thing: everybody seems to have a favourite rod that they say is the "best" but there is no consensus overall. It is absolutely pointless to ask which rod is best because everybody will say that the rod they spent the most amount of money on is the best. Basically, I have come to the conclusion that all rods are exactly the same – Like designer jeans, it depends on what label you prefer. I have had a chance to fish with a "cheap" fenwick fiberglas import, a top of the line Sage rod and a T&T which I now own and I have to admit that I was able to cast effectively with all three. I have a friend who has been fishing most of his life (probably more than 20 years) and who swears by a Wal-mart special he bought for $35.00. He outfishes everyone he knows (except his wife ) and has caught everything from pike and atlantic salmon to rainbows in the tiniest streams with overhanging trees,shrubs and other detritus. I feel as if I have been sucked, like many others, into the myth that more expensive is better. All it does is put my income into the pockets of Orvis, Loomis, Sage and T&T executives. It is not the rod that makes the fisherman, it’s the enjoyment of being outdoors in a pristine river doing an activity that we love. Just my two pennies’ worth… Ken

Response:

1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which manufacturers offer these designs? 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value.

St. Croix 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad experiences with these rods? 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods?

Sage, I prefer the look.  Aside from that, Loomis is probably every bit as good if not better than the Sage.  Finally, if I could only have one rod, I’d buy the best of a lesser name vs the cheapest of a top name.   Thanks.

john

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod for small to medium western rivers: 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which manufacturers offer these designs? 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad experiences with these rods? 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? Thanks.

We are selling more multi-piece (3 or 4 piece) rods every year. Nine foot, three piece rods are very hot. Lots of old timers will be shocked at how well they perform. Twenty years ago we all had several 2 piece rods and then one 4 piece we used only for back-packing. Today, my staff and I are using only multi-piece rods. I would cast the rods that you are interested in and find one you like. You might consider the brands with unconditional life-time warranties. William Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA

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I’m a firm believer in travel rods, having owned Sage 3 pce 586 LL, a Sage 3 pce SP 490, a Fisher 6 pce 7-8 wt and a Diawa 5 pce 4-5 wt. Currently, the SP and the Diawa get all the use.  The Diawa and Fisher are spiggot types whereas the Sages use  the ferrule approach.  To be honest, I can’t tell a damned bit of difference when casting, however the ferrule design is reported to be longer lasting as the spiggot fit tends to wear.  That’s what they say, but I’ve seen some old spiggot rods that fit together just fine.  Frankly, ignore the joining method and buy the rod that suits you.  Winston and Hardy uses spiggots for their travel rods and they don’t produce junk for sure. Spend a bit extra if you can and take a look at the Sage LL series. Even though my SP has a greater useable fishing range, the LL has to be the sweetest to cast and fish.  The GL3s are good too.  Try the GL3 9′ 4 wt. as well.  None of what you have mentioned are bad, I.ve casted them all but I have to go back to the LLs.  Its personal preference on my part, but try one.  Try the 3 pce 586.  Sure an SP, GLX, PM10 or T&T Horizon may cast further, but when is the last time you ever casted a fly more than 50′ to catch a ‘bow.  Buy a used one if you have to. Peter – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod for small to medium western rivers: 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which manufacturers offer these designs? 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad experiences with these rods? 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? Thanks.

Response:

Dear J., I do not personally own a travel rod, but I was recently in the market for a lightweight flyrod and the St. Croix came highly recommended to me.  I know of some flyfishing crazies around this area who own the St. Croix "Pack Rat" and just love them. Kevin J. Engel

Response:

While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod for small to medium western rivers: 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which manufacturers offer these designs? 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad experiences with these rods? 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? Thanks.

Response:

While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod for small to medium western rivers: 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value.

IMHO Sage delivers the best value. I have got a 5 wt 3 pc 9 ft Sage-SP and this rod is perfectly alright for nearly all purposes. If you like smaller streams – take this rod. If you prefer bigger streams – take this rod. It covers all kind of streams because of its soft presentation combined with a lot of power and backbone. Additionally, Sage has a perfect warranty: Once I broke my rod they repaired it free of charge within four weeks and inbetween they lent me the same rod to fish with. Good service. Nothing to complain about. 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods?

See above. Hope this helped. Good fishing and tight lines. Jan — Jan Geert Meents Georgenstrasse 120                              Fax: +89/278174-57 80798 Muenchen                                Phone: +89/278174-56

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod for small to medium western rivers: 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which manufacturers offer these designs? 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad experiences with these rods? 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? Thanks.

        IMHO the Loomis GL3, 9 ft., 5 wt., 4 pc. travel rod is the best value in those you mention. It is without peer as a casting machine – the reason you use a fly rod in the first and only place. It is extremely well built, has a life time warranty for defects – and in my experience – a very liberal interperation of what defect is. The Sage is a close second in choice – the other two are not worth considering along side the Loomis and Sage.         I am a custom rod builder and all of my rods are G. Loomis IMX, and mostly 4 pc. now. For the high price end you will not go wrong with a Loomis GL3 or the GL4 coming out to replace the IMX. Also, if you are looking at high end, check out the Thomas & Thomas Heritage series designed by Gary Borger. These are very nice casting tools.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I : have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey : those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The : questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod : for small to medium western rivers: : : 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which : manufacturers offer these designs? : : 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. : : 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis : GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad : experiences with these rods? : : 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? : : Thanks. : :       Hi Bruce,                  I am a Loomis manso my first choice would deffinatleybe

the Loomis GL3.  As for the high end rods I would reccomend the Loomis GLX.  The GLX is a much faster rod than the GL3.  I do not know too much about the Sage rods because I have never owned one nor have I casted one.  I hope this helps.      Fish or die,                 Adam Birkes

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Question:

I am looking for a rustic place to stay, a lodge or set of cabins, or even a very comfortable and reasonably private campground, in the Adirondacks for a family reunion (about 16 of us) in late June. Any suggestions? Steven Locke, M.D. Harvard Pilgrim Health Care 617-859-5415 voice 617-527-3343 fax

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Xref: news.telenet.net rec.outdoors.fishing.fly:25614 Path: news.telenet.net!usenet.logical.net!imci3!imci5!suck-feed.internetmci.com!n ews.internetMCI.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1 a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 8 I am looking for a rustic place to stay, a lodge or set of cabins, or even a very comfortable and reasonably private campground, in the Adirondacks for a family reunion (about 16 of us) in late June. Any suggestions? Steven Locke, M.D. Harvard Pilgrim Health Care 617-859-5415 voice 617-527-3343 fax

A very nice place to stay is Lapland Lake Resort in Benson/Northville, NY. (Southern Adirondacks). Lapland Lake 139 Lapland Lake Rd. Northville, NY 12134 518.863.4974 We’ve X-country skied there and have vacationed in the summer.  It was excellent.

Response:

Steven Locke of Harvard asked: I am looking for a rustic place to stay, a lodge or set of cabins, or even a very comfortable and reasonably private campground, in the Adirondacks for a family reunion (about 16 of us) in late June. Any suggestions? A very nice place to stay is Lapland Lake Resort in Benson/Northville, NY. (Southern Adirondacks).

For northern Adirondacks, there are lakeside cabins at Lake Placid and roadside cabins in the woods at Wilderness Inn, Wilmington, and plenty more in the vicinity, some on dude ranches. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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