Question:

Check with Fish First Fly shop in Chico. 167 E 3rd St. Chico CA 95928 Tel (530) 343-8300 Fax (530) 343-8934 Their web site is www.fishfirst.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just resently moved to Chico and I love to flyu fish.  I’m don’t know where any good local fishing spots are near by.  If anyone could help me with some streams to fish and some flys to use here in Butte County I would appreciate it Thank you.

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I just resently moved to Chico and I love to flyu fish.  I’m don’t know where any good local fishing spots are near by.  If anyone could help me with some streams to fish and some flys to use here in Butte County I would appreciate it Thank you.

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Question:

RAIN"""""""""RAIN"""""""""RAIN"""""" — www.Vermont-Streams.com Fly Fishing Specialists The  true joy in pursuing trout is that they live in such beautiful places! Win a Fly Logic Reel in our contest.  Visit our Fly Shop page to enter.

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RAIN"""""""""RAIN"""""""""RAIN"""""" —

South Carolina News 70 degrees at sunrise, clear skies, light breeze out of the WNW. Went fishing!!! jim

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Question:

My wife and I just got back from a week on the Frio River in Texas, we had a great time and caught lots of fish. The magic fly was a bead head olive flashback. My wife actually caught her first fish on a fly rod. She was so excited, and she is hooked on fly fishing now. Tonight she even let me buy a new 4wt Loomis rod. She gets the old one. Those Texas sunfish are a lot of fun. Thanks for the advice on what flies to take with us all who contributed. Jim Barker

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Hi Jim, Your wife gets the old one, huh?  You have it easy.  When I walked in with a new T&T 4 wt. rod my wife was home unbeknownst to me.  Needless to say, when she asked how much I spent while looking at the nice new rod tube, I told her I had just gotten her a present.  A new 4 wt. T&T.  It got me off the hook, but I don’t get to use ‘her’ rod.  She really loves it!!! Pete

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My wife and I just got back from a week on the Frio River in Texas, we had a great time and caught lots of fish. The magic fly was a bead head olive flashback. My wife actually caught her first fish on a fly rod. She was so excited, and she is hooked on fly fishing now. Tonight she even let me buy a new 4wt Loomis rod. She gets the old one. Those Texas sunfish are a lot of fun. Thanks for the advice on what flies to take with us all who contributed. Jim Barker

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I have an in, my wife is getting ready to spend 1300.00 on new golf clubs. My loomis was a small purchase in comparison. Jim

Hi Jim, Your wife gets the old one, huh?  You have it easy.  When I walked in with a new T&T 4 wt. rod my wife was home unbeknownst to me.  Needless to say, when she asked how much I spent while looking at the nice new rod tube, I told her I had just gotten her a present.  A new 4 wt. T&T.  It got me off the hook, but I don’t get to use ‘her’ rod.  She really loves it!!! Pete

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Question:

What’s the most expesive fly you’ve ever bought? I mean a fly that you’ve actually used; not some collector’s item salmon fly mounted in a frame that you hang on the wall. I’ll bet I can top it.

I dunno, I went into the Fishhawk in Atlanta a few years back to buy some BWO, came out with a cane rod and they gave me the flies for free, Does that count? Wayne Knight (remove nospam to respond via mail) Expert in the creation of  wind knots and tailing loops.

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What’s the most expesive fly you’ve ever bought? I mean a fly that you’ve actually used; not some collector’s item salmon fly mounted in a frame that you hang on the wall. I’ll bet I can top it. I dunno, I went into the Fishhawk in Atlanta a few years back to buy some BWO, came out with a cane rod and they gave me the flies for free, Does that count?

It depends, Wayne. How many flies did they "give" you? You’d have to divide the cost of the rod by the number of flies, but then you’d still have the rod. So I guess is doesn’t count. Now if you actually wanted the flies but not the rod, and the only way they’d sell you the flies was with the rod … My most expensive fly was an ordinary beadhead nymph. I was fishing some high water in May, snagged it on the other side of the stream, and took a bath going to retrieve it, ruining the $600 camera I was foolishly carrying. I just got a digital camera but I don’t yet have a waterproof case. (Soon!) I won’t wade in more than 6" of water if I’m carrying it. — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)

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my own slamon flies but a few I have bought.  I paid $95 for an Art Flick Cream Variant.  Looking back, I think I got soaked.  I have two Poul Jorgensen speys that I paid $60 for the both.  Mary Dette will sell you her dries & nymphs for $2.50 a piece yet.  Fran Betters will tie you on order for 2 bucks per fly.  I much prefer trading, though.  John Gierach has a "Trade Wind" that I tied, and in exchange I have two Labrador drakes, a hopper, and a stonefly.  He is actually a real good tier.  Ed Shenk has a Ruby butterfly of mine (probably in a desk drawer.)  My next target is Gary Lafontaine.  If anybody can give me his mailing address, can I have it?  He won’t answer my emails! Pete C

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I have some gorilla charlies tied from fur gathered from a mature silvertip lowland gorilla by a zoo vet.  The were free but would probably be somewhat difficult  to replace.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What’s the most expesive fly you’ve ever bought? I mean a fly that you’ve actually used; not some collector’s item salmon fly mounted in a frame that you hang on the wall. I’ll bet I can top it. — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)

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______  In this case, it isn’t a question of ‘expensive’ even though a dry fly tied by George Harvey is now going for $125 each.  There is a limited number of these jewels of dry fly perfection in THIS MANS remaining lifetime.  No George is still with us, (Thank You Lord!) but the fact remains, he is probably ‘thee’ premier dry fly tier in the world.  With eye sight failing, George (The Dry Fly Man) Harvey probably ties the best dry flies in the world.  There is no one his equal or superior.  He is an icon of ‘the craft.’   I can tie dry flies nearly as nice as George Harvey’s but I had tying lessons by  him and I was a very inattentive student.  I watched HOW he USED his hands, his fingers, his wrists.  I spent hours watching him, right by his side in many Eastern Fly Tying Shows.  To watch George tie just ONE FLY is enough information to turn on six more light bulbs in ones head.  It isn’t so much the things you remember but the many little things you miss.  The subtitles, the way the feathers are placed, a dozen things slips by even an experts eye.  One has to see him tie more than one, to get it right. The fact is, a George Harvey tied dry fly is worth more than just money.  I have several dozen of these flies which I have paid George a small fortune for.  He chuckles at my sincerity regarding his value to the world of Fly Fishing.  Those flies are now sitting in a safe.  The question is, would anyone here fish with one of these flies AFTER paying $125 or more for one? I would.  In fact, I do.  They sit on the water, like magic.  He sits on my shoulder watching the drift.   And the trout cometh. Mr. G.   ‘all’s fair with fur or feather’ http://216.55.26.157/vchat/   http://www.gink.com http://www.rodbuilding.com (Bamboo Is Fun) http://www.xink.com 509-243-4100 or 5500

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George, For the 3 wt. we need a medium action.  I like a fast action rod because of my casting style but for small streams and casting tippet most of the time, the slower action is more accurate and has more finesse.  Since we are talking mostly Brook trout and small stream fishing I have been working on a name.  No blockbuster yet comes to mind.  So far its Little Bastard, Small Stream Bastard, Mr. Rapidan Bastard (Monteague had a Rapidan many years ago), or that Bastard Brookie.  Still needs work. Wayne to fish is human….to release divine. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – parties, such as finding some really GREAT Tonkin Cane.  Since I don’t take things for granted Wayne, I would rather admit up front that I may be blind sided, but I assure you, once I have the Cane and the forms I can get yours out just so I can keep my word, if need be.  (I have the tapers)  Do you want a medium or fast fly rod for a three weight? I’m trying to think of a Model name for the 6.5′ .  See the Bastard Page on the web.  I need help in this area. George Wayne To fish is human…to release divine. Folks, the more i read, the less i know.. having been away for several week,s I note that resident most hated/most loved roff guy g g is working on "the bastard"!?!? could someone please clue me in… clearly it is a fly rod and not some bizarre confession. Enquiring minds want to know! edwin —

Question:

ZAKANY wrote Since your lawn is new, I would caution against using any weed killer on it this year, or early next year. New lawns usually look poor the first year. For crabgrass, I prefer using a pre-emergent. Thus, I would have you wait to address the crabgrass for two years. Broadleaf weeds, however, can be taken care of about one year from now. Until then, water, overseed, and fertilize your grass/weed mixture.

I agree, especially on the point of giving a new lawn time to establish. Crab grass really don’t compete that much with a lawn–new or old. It comes from a problem or condition (such as being new) with the lawn itself. Occasionally, dry spots that develop in spring will be filled with crab grass by late summer. Yet, the next year, with more rain or better watering, the same spots will have no crab grass problems at all. I have never even bothered with a pre-emergent. Naturally, crab grass pops up here and there but it never takes over provided I have given the lawn reasonable care in the spring and early summer. Also, seeding new lawns in the fall is a good way of minimizing most any weed problems.   -Paul

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Keep on watering and mowing very regularly (and deeply on the watering.).   Put out some fresh grass seed just before watering if you remember it.  The lawn grass will outgrow the crabgrass and it’ll all look great in about a year, maybe two at most.  If you can handle it, mow every 5 days, whether it looks as if it needs it or not.  Most people seem to mow once a week, because it’s an easy way to remember when to do it, but 5 days is the best.  Even on a weekly mowing schedule, it’ll still look good way sooner than you’d think possible. Try to water once a week for about 6 to 8 hours at a time.  Helps the grasses put their roots way down and keeps them surviving hot and dry times. Don’t bother to pull the crabgrass.  For one thing, it’s helping hold the soil until the regular grasses can take over their rightful place. I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed.  I now have 65% crab grass and 10% weed and the rest lawn.  I need an inexpensive way to deal with this crab grass.  I am ready to give up on this whole lawn thing and just put crushed stone or something…  I live in RI (New England). Please help.  -Joe —– To reply by e-mail, remove the "XXX" from the above e-mail address.

"If I die of curiosity, who will entertain you with naive questions?"  I only answer my mail on an average of once every two months.  Be patient.  http://www.visi.com/~cyli/

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<<<I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed. <<  Crab grass seed is pervasive but doesn’t germinate easily under mulch or a healthy lawn.  In lawn you can stop most weed germination by applying a preemergent such as HALTS in the spring or kill adult (younger is better) crabgrass by spraying with a selective "Crabgrass Killer" product that won’t harm most other grasses. Since your lawn is new, I would caution against using any weed killer on it this year, or early next year. New lawns usually look poor the first year. For crabgrass, I prefer using a pre-emergent. Thus, I would have you wait to address the crabgrass for two years. Broadleaf weeds, however, can be taken care of about one year from now. Until then, water, overseed, and fertilize your grass/weed mixture. Mistakes are the Portals to Discovery…and Ridicule

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I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed.  I now have 65% crab grass and 10% weed and the rest lawn.  I need an inexpensive way to deal with this crab grass.  I am ready to give up on this whole lawn thing and just put crushed stone or something…  I live in RI (New  England).

  Crab grass seed is pervasive but doesn’t germinate easily under mulch or a healthy lawn.  In lawn you can stop most weed germination by applying a preemergent such as HALTS in the spring or kill adult (younger is better) crabgrass by spraying with a selective "Crabgrass Killer" product that won’t harm most other grasses. — Lloyd Fortney http://www.phy.duke.edu/~fortney/ has links to my garden, flower, flyfishing, and travel JPEG images as well as teaching, research, and stuff like that

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I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed.  I now have 65% crab grass and 10% weed and the rest lawn.  I need an inexpensive way to deal with this crab grass.  I am ready to give up on this whole lawn thing and just put crushed stone or something…  I live in RI (New  England). Please help.  -Joe —– To reply by e-mail, remove the "XXX" from the above e-mail address.

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I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed.  I now have 65% crab grass and 10% weed and the rest lawn.  I need an inexpensive way to deal with this crab grass.  I am ready to give up on this whole lawn thing and just put crushed stone or something…  I live in RI (New England). Please help.  -Joe

Joe, I hate to have you go through all of that work again, but this would be my suggestion. Till up the "lawn" again.  Then water it very good.  Let the weeds and crabgrass grow for a week or two, then till again.  Water heavily and let it grow for another week or two.  Then till again.  I would suggest repeating this process until late august/early september when the temperatures start to break.  The idea is to bring up as many of the weed seeds as possible, let them germinate and then kill them by tilling them up.   If the area is small you might even want to try soil solorization seperately or in conjunction with the tilling.  Just lay down clear plastic sheeting over the area that was tilled and/or  watered heavily. The high heat and moisture under the sheeting will help the weed seeds germinate more quickly and then will burn them out with the intense heat and sunlight.  This is really only good if you are going to have some nice sunny, warm weather in the near future. A day or so after the last tilling rake out all of the dead stuff that you can get out.  You may wish to do this after every tilling before watering again, but it will probably depend upon how much time you have.  Once you have raked out all of the debris possible, grade the lawn and reseed with a good disease resistant grass seed mix (try to find a hybrid name not a common grass seed).  Use Kentucky Bluegrass and/or Perennial Rye for sunny areas and Fine Fescue for shaded areas. You may want to topdress the lawn with some good topsoil and then fertilizer with a good organic fertilizer.  I use a liquid seaweed and fish emulsion mix which is good as a foliar feed or as a soil prep. Keep the grass watered well for the next couple of weeks.  Make sure that the soil is moist most of the time, but no puddles.  Once the lawn begins to establish itself (after a few weeks), begin watering more deeply and less often.  This will encourage deeper root growth which will help the plant withstand the first frosts. In the spring cut your lawn once before it even turns green.  Just take off the very tips of the blades.  Then wait until the lawn is of regular mowing height before cutting again.  This will encourage an early start and will help you beat the weeds.  Mow the lawn long (about 2 1/2 to 3 inches).  This will help shade the ground and keep many weed seeds from germinating in the first place.  Then make sure to bag your lawn clippings when any weeds that may pop up begin to go to seed.  This will prevent these seeds from being a nuisance later. I recommend overseeding the lawn each fall for a few years.  This, along with organic mowing methods described above and a good organic fertilizer program will eventually crowd out your weeds and provide for a nice, thick turf. Regards, Michael Kaufman Organic Lawncare Specialist <http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/klawncare/welcome.htm "Organic Fertilizer and Other Products / ‘FREE’ Organic Lawncare Tips"

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I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed.  I now have 65% crab grass and 10% weed and the rest lawn.  I need an inexpensive way to deal with this crab grass.  I am ready to give up on this whole lawn thing and just put crushed stone or something…  I live in RI (New  England). Please help.  -Joe —– To reply by e-mail, remove the "XXX" from the above e-mail address.

Hi Joe.  I’d suggest you contact the U of RI Cooperative Extension office nearest you.  Try to get their publication(s) on turf grasses. They should have them–most states do.  Then follow directions, consulting an extension agent if necessary.  They are very helpful ordinarily.  John Reiner

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Question:

     I’ll be in the Old Forge, NY area during the last week in July. Does anyone know if it’s worth bringing my flyrod?

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Yes it is if you have an opportunity to fish Nicks Lake. You will need a canoe (which can be rented from Tickners in Old Forge), since motors are not allowed on Nicks. Heavily stocked with brown and brook trout. Throw on a size #18 adams and have fun.

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Definately check out the West Canada Creek when you’re in Old Forge.  Late July, most of August you’ll likely find prolific hatches of what are locally called "whiteflies".  Size 12-14-16 light cahills work fine.  Good luck!

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Question:

I will be going to Kenya on business  next month,  for about 3 weeks. I understand fly fishing is great there. Does anyone know what fish and what patterns are popular there? For  that matter, does anyone know what AREAS and RIVERS? Thanks in advance. Mike

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I will be going to Kenya on business  next month,  for about 3 weeks. I understand fly fishing is great there. Does anyone know what fish and what patterns are popular there? For  that matter, does anyone know what AREAS and RIVERS?

Aberdare Highlands (formerly "white highlands") north and west of Nairobi.  Be warned (by Canadian papers) law and order may have vanished in some parts of Kenya these days. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Question:

Has anyone fished for Pink Salmon in the Seattle, WA area? When do they come into the rivers?  Are they different from Chum Salmon? I’m going to be up in the Seattle, WA area in late July. Thanks for the info. -steve

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Has anyone fished for Pink Salmon in the Seattle, WA area? When do they come into the rivers?  Are they different from Chum Salmon? I’m going to be up in the Seattle, WA area in late July. Thanks for the info. -steve

I fished them extensively in 91 and 93 on the Skagit river, WA.  If anyone is interested, email me and we can talk. In short: They are vastly different to chum.  Spawning pinks are strictly 2yr old fish, and vary from about 3-5 pounds (a 6-8pound is a lunker).  Chums are various ages and are much larger.  Pinks seem to aggressively hit certain fly patterns and small spoons of pink and white color.  The prime of the chum run is usually about late Oct-late Nov.  My records show that the first pink I caught in 1993 was on 23 August.  I can’t find my book from 1991, but it was within a week of that.  The first 2 weeks in Sept are the best. Around here, Pinks run in only a few rivers.  The ones that come to mind starting north and working south (there are more but these are the major runs):         Skagit, Stilliguamish, Snohomish system, Nisqually Oh, and due to this strict 2 year cycle and some catastrophic event, there is only a run during odd-numbered years like this year.  There is also a 4 year cycle, and this is the best of that cycle.  1995 should hold many fish.  Chum run every year. Without exaggerating, a dozen fish in a mornings fishing was not at all uncommon.  My numbers from the "down" year of 1993 show large numbers of fish. I’ll stop now before I start (continue?) babbling. talk to you later,         -tgades

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Pinks are also known as humpys, the previous post cover most other   points. Chums turn dark early and pinks have a slimey feel.

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Pinks are also known as humpys (sp) I ahve found that almost anything   that works for silvers also works for pinks but that they run deeper on   average.  Chum turn dark early and do not bite as well out side of fresh   water concentrations.  Pinks tend to be oilyer and slimy but taste great   if processed soon after landing.

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Question:

I have the opportunity to spend a long weekend off Marsh Harbor on a 46′ Sport FIsherman (with flats skiff)  this summer. I am looking for input on the prime time between June and August  (considering both weather and fish) to make this trip. Any input would be appreciated.

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writes: I have the opportunity to spend a long weekend off Marsh Harbor on a 46′ Sport FIsherman (with flats skiff)  this summer. I am looking for input on the prime time between June and August  (considering both weather and fish) to make this trip. Any input would be appreciated.

I fished a week early last July out of Great Abaco Bonefish Club in Marsh Harbor. I believe there are basically two main areas available (at least that we fished); The Marls and Cherokee Sound. The Marls is a huge area of flats/mangroves with a healthy population of bonefish. Cherokee Sound just outside Marsh Harbor has less bonefish but they are on average much larger and more difficult to catch. The fishing is really dictated by tidal movements and local guides a must. My impression was that the better guides in this area were connected to the lodge, but I might be wrong. The guides we had did their best, but some of them had limited experience with flyfishing (this is a relatively virgin area for flyfishing). We had pretty good fishing overall. Not great numbers of fish per day, but a decent average, say 4 pounds. The bigger fish went up to 8 pounds. We saw a few permit, but this is not a permit (or tarpon) hotspot! The flies that worked the best for us were Gotchas and Charlies, sizes 4 and 6. Good luck! Inge Solberg Houston, Texas

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