Question:

Wonder if there would be a level of interest in a news feed with pictures concerning RV’ing and camping. I would imagine that The users of this newsfeed have some photos they would like to "show off".

Response:

Right on!  If anyone has pictures to post, please do so.  I’ve always enjoyed looking at people’s photo albums…. However, unless they’re extremely snot-nosed & dirty, pets are 100 times more fun to look at than pictures of children & grandkids – if you know what I mean – And I think you do! Highways are happy ways, so let’s see some pix!                                                         Don

Response:

Right on!  If anyone has pictures to post, please do so.  I’ve always enjoyed looking at people’s photo albums….

Uh, no, please don’t post them here. Binaries (photos, music, etc.) are not allowed on most newsgroups, including this one. Here are two appropriate methods of sharing pictures with folks on a newsgroup: 1. Post them on a web page and then give the URL for anyone who is interested. 2. Indicate that you have them and that anyone who wants to see them should request them from you by private e-mail (not a newsgroup post, please).  You can then send them copies by e-mail. Distributing them this way keeps the rest of the newsgroup from having to download them. (Many newsreader programs don’t translate binary files anyway, so all most folks see is many lines of garbage.) Thanks. GB in NC

Response:

Right on!  If anyone has pictures to post, please do so.  I’ve always enjoyed looking at people’s photo albums…. However, unless they’re extremely snot-nosed & dirty, pets are 100 times more fun to look at than pictures of children & grandkids – if you know what I mean – And I think you do! Highways are happy ways, so let’s see some pix!                                                        Don

WHOA,NELLY, git offa that horse!   Pullease DO NOT post pictures in text-only NG’s!   Will KD3XR —- the Curmudgeon of Sill Hill In order to become the master, the politician poses as the servant. Charles de Gaulle

Response:

A better solution is to use a site such as PhotoPoint, or Zing, that offers free uploading and storage of the photo’s, in albums, with the ability to send notices to those who you want to view them. — Flutterby

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Right on!  If anyone has pictures to post, please do so.  I’ve always enjoyed looking at people’s photo albums…. However, unless they’re extremely snot-nosed & dirty, pets are 100 times more fun to look at than pictures of children & grandkids – if you know what I mean – And I think you do! Highways are happy ways, so let’s see some pix!                                                         Don

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Right on!  If anyone has pictures to post, please do so.  I’ve always enjoyed looking at people’s photo albums…. However, unless they’re extremely snot-nosed & dirty, pets are 100 times more fun to look at than pictures of children & grandkids – if you know what I mean – And I think you do! Highways are happy ways, so let’s see some pix!                                                        Don WHOA,NELLY, git offa that horse!   Pullease DO NOT post pictures in text-only NG’s!

True. It might be worth the bother to create another newsgroup  for RV picture posting, the rec.outdoors.fishing.fly newsgroup did that a few years back. That would give a way for anyone to easily post and share pictures without learning how to create a website. Only trouble with a binaries newsgroup is that they all get plastered with spam from porn sites unless they are strictly moderated.

Response:

Question:

Hi My sentiments are similar to Christian’s first posting. I prefer a slightly stiffer rod when Spey casting, I started with a so called "Spey" but found it difficult to achieve distance without perfect timing. You need to slow down your whole casting action, wait for the rod to load before applying the power. Timing is everything when using a traditional Spey actioned rod. They are not suitable for using with any kind of sinking line, the action is just too slow and this gives the line time to sink between the "back cast" and forward cast. I soon changed to a 15′ 1" Sage with a stiffer action and found this to be near perfect for me, with both floating and sinking lines. It can be used with shooting heads as Christian mentions (12 meters of #12 line is perfect) and casts of 40+ yards are fairly routine with this method. It is tireing though having to strip in nearly 30 yards of line every cast. As for breakages, the more expensive the rod the better the guarentee (usually), my Sage has a lifetime guarentee, the Diawa doesn’t have any guarentee. As usual it all comes down to "how much you want to spend". Bruce & Walker rods are a range I can recommend – buy the "Walker" rods they have the stiffer action. The Norway or Speycaster range are excellent rods. The Diawa Amorphous is a good range. At the top of the tree are the Sage and the Hardy Ultralite/Elite range. Only my opinions. Chris

Response:

Hi Chris

Hi Chris I would like to make a couple of small but very important points here regarding your change from one rod to another. It is my humble opinion  your first rod didn’t quite suit your casting style and or body shape. With the greatest respects that doesn’t mean that particular rod is not suitable for somebody else. Just as your move to a Sage doesn’t mean that a Sage will suit everybody. My point is that the individual must buy a rod that suits/fits him or her. Two of my mates fish and cast perfectly well with 19ft (yes 19 feet) B&W’s but I cannot cast very well with them. I can cast however the same amount of line (as them) with a 15ft B&W, I can also cast a few of the other available rods, including almost all of the Daiwa rods, equally well. Other rods that I cannot come to grips with are the B&W Hexograph the Sage (Chris’s rod) and some of the Walkers although I think with practice I could master the Walkers. My point is that someone buying a new rod must try a few out first and choose the one that they think suits them. I fish regularly with a stiff rod the B&W 15ft heavy duty Expert, but this rod has a very fast action, unlike the slower action of the ones I cannot use. As mentioned before there are many X’s in the equation and here are some of them. A stiff rod with a fast action A stiff rod with a slow action A soft rod with a slow action ( I can’t think of a soft rod that’s got a fast action) The size of line you choose to fish with your chosen rod, (normally rods are rated for three sizes, but there is a tremendous difference between a 9 and an 11. This will also has an impact on how soft the rod feels and casts) Floating etc…etc…etc…. Okay I’m off the pedastal ) Regards Lawr, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hi My sentiments are similar to Christian’s first posting. I prefer a slightly stiffer rod when Spey casting, I started with a so called "Spey" but found it difficult to achieve distance without perfect timing. You need to slow down your whole casting action, wait for the rod to load before applying the power. Timing is everything when using a traditional Spey actioned rod. They are not suitable for using with any kind of sinking line, the action is just too slow and this gives the line time to sink between the "back cast" and forward cast. I soon changed to a 15′ 1" Sage with a stiffer action and found this to be near perfect for me, with both floating and sinking lines. It can be used with shooting heads as Christian mentions (12 meters of #12 line is perfect) and casts of 40+ yards are fairly routine with this method. It is tireing though having to strip in nearly 30 yards of line every cast. As for breakages, the more expensive the rod the better the guarentee (usually), my Sage has a lifetime guarentee, the Diawa doesn’t have any guarentee. As usual it all comes down to "how much you want to spend". Bruce & Walker rods are a range I can recommend – buy the "Walker" rods they have the stiffer action. The Norway or Speycaster range are excellent rods. The Diawa Amorphous is a good range. At the top of the tree are the Sage and the Hardy Ultralite/Elite range. Only my opinions. Chris

Response:

My fishing buddy and I have obseved a few people Spey casting up here on the Miramichi.  It looks like fun.  They cast a mile-long line.  But, we have always wondered if the method helps them catch more fish?  We cover the same amount of water (or more) by fishing from a canoe.  If there are fish that are out of our reach, we just move the boat into a position so that we get a good swing over them. JB

Response:

Hi Lawr You are right to make these valid points but I thought I had mentioned them in my original posting, I checked and I had. I prefer a slightly stiffer rod when Spey casting Timing is everything when using a traditional Spey actioned rod. I soon changed to a 15′ 1" Sage with a stiffer action and found this to be near perfect for me

I think these snippits confirm that the information I gave was MY preferences, I was not trying to make hard and fast rules that apply to everybody. As for hard and fast rules I still believe the only comment I made against traditional actioned "spey" rods was They are not suitable for using with any kind of sinking line, the action is just too slow and this gives the line time to sink between the "back cast" and forward cast.

and this is something I still maintain. Thanks for keeping us on our toes Lawr. Chris

Response:

I’m sorry Chris!! I wasn’t trying to have a go at your opinions, postings can often come across a bit strong. My intention was to add other considerations to all the other opinions including yours. Don’t mind me I rattle on a bit when it’s a subject I like ) however I can say sorry and I can do a U-Turn if I’m wrong ) Best Regards Lawr, PS Have you checked out the Ness System reports etc…on my website?? www.f-deans.freeserve.co.uk – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Lawr You are right to make these valid points but I thought I had mentioned them in my original posting, I checked and I had. I prefer a slightly stiffer rod when Spey casting Timing is everything when using a traditional Spey actioned rod. I soon changed to a 15′ 1" Sage with a stiffer action and found this to be near perfect for me I think these snippits confirm that the information I gave was MY preferences, I was not trying to make hard and fast rules that apply to everybody. As for hard and fast rules I still believe the only comment I made against traditional actioned "spey" rods was They are not suitable for using with any kind of sinking line, the action is just too slow and this gives the line time to sink between the "back cast" and forward cast. and this is something I still maintain. Thanks for keeping us on our toes Lawr. Chris

Response:

Hi, I am interested in buying a double handed salmon rod, It should be quite allround, so I am thinking of a rod of about 14′ for #9/10. I have been casting both (still having to learn a lot) and like the single and double Spey and rollcasts. Should I choose the somewhat softer "old" design Speycastrods or would a modern stiffer design be better ???? I don’t want to start with just a cheap rod, then a fair rod, a good rod and after that buying a realy nice rod. Good advise is welcome……. Regards, Ger.

Response:

It should be quite allround, so I am thinking of a rod of about 14′ for #9/10. [...] Should I choose the somewhat softer "old" design Speycastrods or would a modern stiffer design be better ????

I say go for the modern stiffer design.  Not that you especially need a stiff rod, but because the old design speyrods were designed with traditional speycasting in mind, meaning loading the rod all the way around the spey cast. Nowadays, you would just go with a shooting head and a spiced up roll cast. I’ll happily admit, I’m drawing up two extremes here, and even though your question kinda opened that door, it isn’t particularly useful in terms of fishing. The old style spey casting would enable you to cast a 45 yard DT line in a single casting motion, but it required very good technique and it was also hard work. Rods had to be heavy and slow action to perform such a cast, and I think you need to wear tweed to get it right, as well..   That time has past, basically. — At least here in Norway. ( it seems the time of rivers packed with salmon are gone up here too..)  Lightweight, fast rods are dominating, and shooting heads are getting more popular. Some still use WF-lines or other taperings, in contrast to the now rare, but formerly very popular DT line. Most people tend to retrieve quite a bit of line before making the cast (especially with shooting heads), and the cast isn’t really a jolly old God save the Queen spey cast (Hi there, Brits! , but more like an advanced roll cast. It works, and I’ve found it to be much easier than real spey casting. The distance potential is impeccable, and its only drawback is that you have your fly less in the water than with real spey casting (due to line retrieval between casts). Also, sinking vs. floating line can make a difference in your choice. To handle a sinking line, a light weight, fast tip-action rod might not be sufficient. But for WF or ST floating lines, the faster and lighter rod would excel. So, I think you need to ask yourself, do you want to fish effectively and easily with a two-handed rod, or do you in fact want to learn the traditional spey casting?  Absolutely nothing wrong with the latter. I may be off with my definitions. The last time I responded to a spey cast question, several knowledgeable people objected and offered alternative views, and I can’t guarantee I got it right this time. I just feel that you perhaps shouldn’t go for the heavy, slow action rod, based solely on tradition, without considering more modern applications of two-handed casting (and besides, slow action rods doesn’t have to be heavy – I just made that up.. ). As always when buying a rod, test casting several options is the best way to go. We all have our quirks and preferences. Too fast of an action can be very bad, considering you’re dealing with a 14′ rod here –the longer the rod, the more accuracy is needed in handling it. Personally, I would put great emphasis on weight. I use to have a Bruce & Walker Powerlite 15′, an absolutely wonderful rod, extremely light weight for its size. It broke, and most other rods I’ve tried, made me and especially my back longing for my B&W.. Its successor is the B&W Powerlite Speycaster, and if you have the chance, I’d suggest you have a look at it. — Christian Figenschou – http://figen.com

Response:

Should I choose the somewhat softer "old" design Speycastrods or would a modern stiffer design be better ????

If you plan to use switch, single and double spey casts, then go with a true "spey" rod. If you plan to use casts like one would with a trout rod (i.e. overhand + false casting), then go with a more modern rod. The big difference is that the spey rod flexes for the entire length of the shaft, and it can handle flexing in all directions.  More modern rods have a "progressive taper" where the butt section of the shaft hardly bends and most of the flex occurs in the top 1/3-rd of the shaft.  Modern rods have also been optimized for front-back casting, and may not handle flexing in all directions as well as a spey rod. Finally, don’t confuse stiffness with power.  Modern rods have a quick snappy tip designed to generate high line speed over a short distance.  Older rods, including glass, generate moderate line speed, but over a greater distance. In part because of my decent but not super-powerful wrist and forearm strength, I feel like I can toss a line farther and more accurately with the softer rods. Thomas Gilg

Response:

Thomas and Christian have given you very good advice however it is my humble opinion that you must buy a rod that suits/fits  *you*.  When buying a pair of shoes you do not buy a pair that fits somebody else and this is the case with Spey Rods. When Spey casting/fishing there are many many X’s in the equation and without trying a rod on to see if it *fits* you (and the type of water you are fishing) you will be unaware of them. This is why it takes years to perfect a good Spey cast. You are right however to go for a good quality rod first time round. On the river Ness System Scotland, a great Spey casting area, the most common rod is the Daiwa  Amorphous 15 or 16 ft, I don’t own one at the moment but if buying a new rod I would buy the 15ft. The extra lightweight rods *may* have a tendency to break as Christian pointed out especially if using a sink tip or full sinking line. HTH Lawr, www.f-deans.freeserve.co.uk         "Fishing On The Fly"               :{)< – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hi, I am interested in buying a double handed salmon rod, It should be quite allround, so I am thinking of a rod of about 14′ for #9/10. I have been casting both (still having to learn a lot) and like the single and double Spey and rollcasts. Should I choose the somewhat softer "old" design Speycastrods or would a modern stiffer design be better ???? I don’t want to start with just a cheap rod, then a fair rod, a good rod and after that buying a realy nice rod. Good advise is welcome……. Regards, Ger.

Response:

Oh! dear does your friend have a licence ) (only kidding) When you get accustomed to a rod it is difficult to make the transition to another rod. Even two rods from the same maker with exactly the same specifications (i.e. two B&W 15ft heavy duty Experts) can have different actions. Over the years I have seen quite a few Spey rods broken during casting (the noise is a bit like a gun going off) with no particular rod type being the worst case.  IMHO it would be more difficult to break an Expert than say a Powerlight especially if using a sinking line or sink tip coupled with 3 inch leaded waddington. I know the above is an extreme case but you may need a rod that is capable of fishing all the extremes. Regards Lawr, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The extra lightweight rods *may* have a tendency to break as Christian pointed out especially if using a sink tip or full sinking line. In this particular case, I’ve found them to have a tendency of breaking when your friend runs over them with his car..   — Christian Figenschou – http://figen.com

Response:

Question:

Is there such a thing as "the best waders?"  I’m restarting my fly fishing career after 20 years off and am baffled by neoprene vs. breathables vs. canvas etc.  Is there a brand better than another?  Every fly rodder that I’ve spoken with has a different opinion.  The latest is to buy stocking foot breathables from Orvis. Thanks.

Response:

Is there such a thing as "the best waders?"  I’m restarting my fly fishing career after 20 years off and am baffled by neoprene vs. breathables vs. canvas etc.  Is there a brand better than another?  Every fly rodder that I’ve spoken with has a different opinion.  The latest is to buy stocking foot breathables from Orvis. Thanks.

Simms Guide model breathables. — something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

writes: Is there such a thing as "the best waders?

The best waders are which ever ones fit your needs and your pocket book. You’re right they’re so many out there and most of them work as promised. If money is not an object, breathables Simms Guide Gortex, LL Bean Gortex or the new tough Orvis ones are supposed to be good. I have had the simms for four seasons now. Not a leak yet, very comfortable in the summer but they were and are pricey. If I wear my breathables over fleece pants, I have yet to have a "cold" problem steelheading. I never plan on wearing my neoprenes again. Wayne Knight Geneva IL                            

Response:

I too am in the process of "gearing up".  After speaking with several individuals, an Orvis salesperson, a BassPro rep, and looking through a plethora of magazines and books, I have concluded the following: 1.    Not all waders are created equal. 2.    If you buy a $10 pair of waders, expect a $10 pair of waders. 3.    NO 2 fly fisherman (or sales people) will answer the same question         with the same (or nearly the same) answer. 4.    Waders are a personal choice based on the following:         A.    Area to be fished (ie; hiking 10miles in 6mm neoprene is                 not the most pleasant experience.)         B.    Seasons fished (15 degrees in 45 degree water is no fun                 in lightweight breathables.)         C.    Price range:  Buy the best you can afford while keeping in                 mind what you are going to use them for. Basically, unless you are comparing two specific products, there are no definitive answers.  Think:  Need, Desire, Use, Price.  When in doubt, take along a fly fisherman you trust and have him/her answer the necessary questions on your behalf. Casting is free therapy!!!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is there such a thing as "the best waders?"  I’m restarting my fly fishing career after 20 years off and am baffled by neoprene vs. breathables vs. canvas etc.  Is there a brand better than another?  Every fly rodder that I’ve spoken with has a different opinion.  The latest is to buy stocking foot breathables from Orvis. Thanks.

Response:

Ditto the previous replies. Except for the coldest, most rugged conditions, the breathables are the best bet. I have Hodgmans, which I love. Go with the ones that fit you best; both your body and your pocketbook! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is there such a thing as "the best waders?"  I’m restarting my fly fishing

Response:

Basically, ditto. Breathables are not only the most comfortable thing I’ve worn in the water (besides an occasional big grin) they are absolutely fantastic for travel. They dry overnight and take almost no space at all when they go back into your suitcase for the morning flight. But if you’re only going to fish a couple of times a year, you have to decide whether they are worth the expense. I like Simms. Ken Ft. Lupton, CO – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – writes: Is there such a thing as "the best waders? The best waders are which ever ones fit your needs and your pocket book. You’re right they’re so many out there and most of them work as promised. Wayne Knight Geneva IL

Response:

Seems like there are a lot of good vendors out there.  I’ve got some LL Bean waist-high breathable waders which I find fantastically comfortable (I fish a lot of small, freestone streams) and have been very durable.  Waist high works much better than hippers (which invariable are 2" too short) and are much more comfortable in hot weather than chest waders.  I almost never miss the extra height of a chest wader (if it’s that deep, you should be fishing in it, not walking in it). I also have a pair of Orvis Chest High breathable waders, which I would give a miss.  The fabric simply isn’t puncture resistant enough. Michael – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ditto the previous replies. Except for the coldest, most rugged conditions, the breathables are the best bet. I have Hodgmans, which I love. Go with the ones that fit you best; both your body and your pocketbook! Is there such a thing as "the best waders?"  I’m restarting my fly fishing

Response:

______  I use Levi  Waders and they are very breathable.  Cheap, too. Mr. G.

Response:

______  I use Levi  Waders and they are very breathable.  Cheap, too. Mr. G.

Plus if you gotta piss it’s  better’n neoprene, eh George? BA

Response:

______  I use Levi  Waders and they are very breathable.  Cheap, too. Mr. G. Plus if you gotta piss it’s  better’n neoprene, eh George? BA

_______   yep. —

Question:

I will be going to Glacier National Park in early July.  Any recommendations on locations inside the park to fish would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Response:

I will be going to Glacier National Park in early July.  Any recommendations on locations inside the park to fish would be greatly appreciated.

Lucky person.  Glacier National Park has some great places to fish. However, bear (sorry for the pun) in mind that most flyfishing opportunity is stillwater.  You also must look out for Grizz.  July is not a bad time for bears…just give em their space.  My favorite lake to fish is Upper Medicine Lake on the East Side.  Its a nasty hike but there are beautiful 18 West Slope Cutthroat in the lake. They often come to the shoreline in the afternoon.  However, a friend of mine told me that brook trout have invaded recently so we can imagine that the cutt population will be screwed up by the char. Yours, -John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks.

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Question:

We’re planning a trip to St. Barth’s in May and wondered about the fly fishing possibilities.  Any suggestions, anyone?

Response:

whenever i travelled to the caribbean i would bring along the spinning gear (now into flyfishing)…. i caught baby tarpon on st.maarten and ventured over to st.barts….i didnt have too much luck there but heard from some people there that there are tarpon there at the right time of year…whenever that is…so i assume the other normal fishing will apply….ie. barracuda and bonefish etc…i think it would be worth the effort….let me know how you do ok   frank in brrrboston

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Question:

  What is fishing well on the Metolius these days – March 17?? I thought it was closed?? I don’t really know if it is open or closed. It usually fishes well in June and September.

Nope, it’s only closed above Allingham Bridge.  Of course that’s my favorite water, especially in the winter, but I gladly conced because there was too much damage to the banks. -Burton — L. Burton Hawley           2330 NW Hummingbird Corvallis, OR

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   What is fishing well on the Metolius these days – March 17??    Many thanks,    john manotti

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  What is fishing well on the Metolius these days – March 17??   Many thanks,   john manotti

I thought it was closed?? I don’t really know if it is open or closed. It usually fishes well in June and September. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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Question:

I’m new to the group but has anyone ever posted pictures of flies to this NG?  Plus what was the feedback from the College Park, MD FF Show last Weekend?

Response:

no pics in this group but maybe rec.outdoors.fishing.fly.tying — Jan Geert Meents, Munich, Germany | I’m new to the group but has anyone ever posted pictures of flies to this | NG?  Plus what was the feedback from the College Park, MD FF Show last | Weekend? | |

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I’m new to the group but has anyone ever posted pictures of flies to this NG?  Plus what was the feedback from the College Park, MD FF Show last Weekend?

don’t do it.   post to alt.binaries.pictures.fishing see you there ! TimW

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Question:

I am going on a 7 day canoe trip in Quetico Prov. Park in Ontario in July. Does anyone have any information on what gear and flys to use for the smallmouth bass and pike. Thanks

Response:

I am going on a 7 day canoe trip in Quetico Prov. Park in Ontario in July. Does anyone have any information on what gear and flys to use for the smallmouth bass and pike. Thanks

I was up there 2 years ago for a 14 day trip and what an experience!!  Although we weren’t fly fishing, several people were.  The patterns which they said were effective were assorted minnow patterns (Muddler, Sculpin) as well as a crawfish pattern.  Glo balls would probably work well from what I saw.  I was primarily spincasting and killed the smallmouth on a little floating rapala about 2 inches long.  We seemed to hit most of the bass below waterfalls.  My dad caught one that was almost 4 1/2 pounds!  Watch out for the Pike.  They chomped anything that they could catch.  You might also have fun with the walleye.  Besides, IMHO walleye taste much better than smallmouth. Let me know how it went (I’m jealous). Tom Cavitt

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Question:

Can anyone give me any tips on what kind of containers to use while applying beads to a piece of work.  After I have them out of the baggie (where I store them in thier little plastic containers) I find that if I leave them in the little plastic containers they spill all over the place.  If I pour them out of their containers into the baggies and then try to get one at a time…well lets just say my carpet is well beaded.:-)  Any suggestions greatly appreciated. TIA Doris

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I keep my beads in camera film containers.  When I’m beading, I put them on the top lid of a plastic shoebox.  The higher sides keep the beads from rolling off and I don’t have to put the beads away at night because I can just sit the shoebox on the floor with the lid until morning. Pamela CALVIN: "You know, Hobbes, some days even my lucky rocketship underpants don’t          help." HOBBES: "Well, you’ve done all you can do." Pamela A. Jones

Response:

Can anyone give me any tips on what kind of containers to use while applying beads to a piece of work.

I think everyone has a different preferred storage method.  However, when I am working with them, I use a tray from LoRan that has six large compartments with built in pouring spouts and each compartment has it’s own clear lid.  Along the two long sides of this "tray" are troughs for use in laying out beads when you are doing a row of different coloured beads.  (Anyone who has done earthdancer knows what I mean by this and this tray was wonderfully handy while I was doing her.  *grin*)  I paid $4 for it at my local cross stitch shop.   Susan H. Simko

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I use the lid of my Craft-Stor tote.  It has several raised lines to hold the beads in and the area is large enough to let them spread out.   Meg in Los Angeles

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This is a good place to use those pretty small crystal or porcelein ash trays that most people are not using now for their intended purpose (of course, I am not one of those!).  Otherwise, any small lid – a 35mm film canister, a small plastic (Rubbermaid?) container, etc. – should work as long as it has a rim that is high enough to keep the beads from rolling out onto the floor.  HTH…Ellen – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Can anyone give me any tips on what kind of containers to use while applying beads to a piece of work.

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| I keep my beads in camera film containers.  When I’m beading, I put them | on the top lid of a plastic shoebox.  The higher sides keep the beads from | rolling off and I don’t have to put the beads away at night because I can | just sit the shoebox on the floor with the lid until morning. Great idea, Pamela, but you must either have a locked craft room or no small kids or pets!  Most of us couldn’t possible leave such things out overnight.   How do you mark the film containers, or are they the transparent type? — My opinions are my own; if IBM shares them, they haven’t told me.

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Can anyone give me any tips on what kind of containers to use while applying beads to a piece of work.

I use little metal tart tins.  They are fluted for making *little* cakes actually.  My finger fits the flute and I am able to pull one bead at a time.  Also, the sides are high.  Similary and almost as good (except for the flutes) are little dishes for "on the side" foods, like soy sauce or salt cellars.  I find most of my gadgets either in the fishing or cooking sections. Keltia — "And the trouble is, if you don’t risk anything, you risk even more"                                 -Erica Jong

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Great idea, Pamela, but you must either have a locked craft room or no small kids or pets!  Most of us couldn’t possible leave such things out overnight. How do you mark the film containers, or are they the transparent type?

I (for the next 4 weeks) do live alone!  I mark the film containers with small white labels (1/2" x 3/4") which I also use the mark my homemake magnetic needleholder cards. Pamela

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I lost the attribution of who wrote this comment.  Very sorry! applying beads to a piece of work.

Since my beading projects so far have been small (Mill Hill bead kits), I put the whole project in a small tin with handles (I got the tin at Michaels and it shows an old advertisement for Singer.  They had another tin with handles of Hershey’s kisses, but I wasn’t too fond of the picture).  Thus, I can tote around my project when I am not working on it and when I *am* working on it, I just put the beads I want to use in the lid.  If I were working on a larger project (i.e. MLI or TW), then I could always use the tin to carry stuff like floss, scissor, needles, etc. and just pop the whole thing in my project tote and I would still be able to use the lid.  Then again, I may come up with a different method for those…I don’t know yet! — Bekki Lyn Conqueror of 2,7,10,13,12,15,16,18 "Tangled threads seem a stronghold/But illusions can deceive."   +++Fates Warning: The Ivory Gate of Dreams+++ "All acts of love and pleasure are Her rituals."

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This is a good place to use those pretty small crystal or porcelein ash trays that most people are not using now for their intended purpose (of course, I am not one of those!).  Otherwise, any small lid – a 35mm film canister, a small plastic (Rubbermaid?) container, etc. – should work as long as it has a rim that is high enough to keep the beads from rolling out onto the floor.  HTH…Ellen Can anyone give me any tips on what kind of containers to use while applying beads to a piece of work.

hi! coming out of lurkdom :0   i use a chrysanthenum <sp? tray that’s made for watercolours.  the porclain ones are nice, and i can put it into a padded carrying case, and carry my beading with me! happy beading, tree

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To store them (the ones that come loose or in hanks), I use those stackable plastic containers (buyable in craft stores) OR mini ziplock bags OR my new "discovery": mini glass jam containers, you know, those that they serve in hotel breakfasts… While working, I tried the plastic multiple compartments container, but my preferred method is cream cheese plastic lids. Simone BeadNet http://www.mcs.net/~simone/beadnet.html

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I have just discovered the multiple drawer small tool containers in the computer store. Each drawer is clear see through. With optional clear dividers, you can put 3 separate hanks in related colors into the same drawer.. You can pull the drawer out completely (there is a safety catch so you won’t dump the beads unintentionally) and pour out loose beads. They come in 15 to 36 drawer sizes. This is the first time I have found something to be excited about for organizing beads. Until now, I was doing the jars/spice jars/ film containers/ screw top stacking containers without a good organizing solution. I found these drawers at Frye’s which is a computer discount store in California. Similar computer stores or electronic stores should carry these drawer sets where Frye’s do not exist.

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Something else good to keep beads in—I once bought a whole box of rubber-stoppered vacuum tubes from a scientific apparatus remainder company.   (The kind a clinic might use for biiiig blood samples—-about 6 or 7" long) They are clear and hold gobs and gobs of seed beads each.  (They also make a fun little "pop" when you first open them. 8 ^ ) I can’t remember exactly where I bought ‘em, but they were cheap or I wouldn’t have bothered, I’m sure…   I know there are several such odd-lot companies around. Monique in Bryan

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 Until now, I was doing the jars/spice jars/ film containers/ screw top stacking containers without a good organizing solution. I found these drawers at Frye’s which is a computer discount store in California. Similar computer stores or electronic stores should carry these drawer sets where Frye’s do not exist.

Don’t laugh I have been using my Dads empty Skoal cans.I put tape on the bottom and lid with the #.(wintergreen smells nice.I do wash them be for using.:-  Sheila

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Until now, I was doing the jars/spice jars/ film containers/ screw top stacking containers without a good organizing solution. I found these drawers at Frye’s which is a computer discount store in California. Similar computer stores or electronic stores should carry these drawer sets where Frye’s do not exist. Don’t laugh I have been using my Dads empty Skoal cans.I put tape on the bottom and lid with the #.(wintergreen smells nice.I do wash them be for using.:-  Sheila

My husband (also a stitcher) came home with some very cool clear plastic containers from the fishing department, perfect for beads. The are about 1-1/2 inch diameter and one screws onto the bottom of the other.  You can stack as many together as you want (each is about 1 inch tall).  When I want to use a certain bead,  I simply unscrew the container I want, and the rest remain closed!  I have taken small adhesive labels to put the bead numbers on each container.  They didn’t have any kind of brand name on them, so I can’t share that with you… but look in the tackle dept.  I think they are made for storing fishing flys!          ** Anne in Oregon                       ~ So many projects, so little time ~

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There’s a nice little system called the Bead Hive made out of little interlocking plastic drawers.  They get sold in sets of 12 for ~$10.  What is nice about them is that you can detach the drawers and just have the drawers filled with the beads you need for your project.  I’ve seen them in the CS&CC catalog and my favorite local needlework shop here in the Silicon Valley sells them too. Happy stitching, Cynthia

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I use the stacking screw top containers that screw on top of each other. The small ones are for the beads(I clip out the brand name and catalog number from the package as a label and slip it into the container with the beads), and there are slightly larger ones..I use these for my growing confetti collection.  These work fine for me…but will be kind of confusing as I start to stitch pieces calling for more similar beads. Mari

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My husband (also a stitcher) came home with some very cool clear plastic containers from the fishing department, perfect for beads. The are about 1-1/2 inch diameter and one screws onto the bottom of the other.  You can stack as many together as you want (each is about 1 inch tall).  When I want to use a certain bead,  I simply unscrew the container I want, and the rest remain closed!  I have taken small adhesive labels to put the bead numbers on each container.  They didn’t have any kind of brand name on them, so I can’t share that with you… but look in the tackle dept.  I think they are made for storing fishing flys!         ** Anne in Oregon                      ~ So many projects, so little time ~

I have found that our fly fishing shop has the best prices, by far, and better quality stackable containers (some bead shops have ones that don’t screw together very well after you get them apart).  Also, when I go to buy them, I get great service — usually I’m the only woman in the shop and all them men let me go first when ringing up the sale!  Chivalry lives! Karen

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Something else good to keep beads in—I once bought a whole box of rubber-stoppered vacuum tubes from a scientific apparatus remainder company. I can’t remember exactly where I bought ‘em, but they were cheap or I wouldn’t have bothered, I’m sure…  

    Monique, wasn’t that American Scientific?  With their really goof catalogues?  Martha Beth

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oh come on !!! We all now how handy a 9 foot 8 weight comes in at a Klan Rally !   Tim Walker

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Some people bring so much baggage to every sport they miss the very point! If you believe that flyfishing is a white-man elitist sport you are confusing social issues with angler-fish issues,for example. But why do we flyfish ? There are times when spinners, jigs, bait, etc. are far more successful in bringing a fish to the net. In reality flyfishing gear is the most versatile , capable of handling the obvious as well  as spinners, small jigs,  and bait ( sometimes the casting is not so pretty), offers nearly absolute lure control, and provides both visual and tactile strike detection. Finally , hooking, fighting, and landing a fish on a long, light rod with the fish and the angler connected through the line is magical and the guts of the sport. Flyfishing  masters ( even after 30 years / over 3000 fishing trips I am not one)  have used every tool at their disposal and have blurred the edges between flyfihing and spinning in the quest for this magic.

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