Question:

For practice, try standing with your off-side shoulder to your target (ie: your feet will point 90

Question:

Use a Griffitt’s Gnat The best advise I have is do not try to fish a midge hatch with a match in size. It is generally futile. The hook size is impractical for decent hookups and, think about it, the trout are going to pick out your tiny fly from all the mass that have hatched? Good lucK. I suggest you fish a Griffitt’s Gnat instead. Unlike most aquatic insects, the midges are hatching from CLUSTERS of eggs in the meniscus . . . little gooy egg masses. The Griffitts imitates the egg clusters. Thats what the fish are going for because it gives them more food per gulp. The Griffitts is also big enough to carry a decent hook, and to tie on with normal vision. End of advice Dave

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I’m in Colorado and been fly fishing for 15 yrs. Let me say this, we tend to fish the same nymph and vary the color and size…different colored rib and collar. My tip, when fishing in the early A.M. start very small (22-24) on your dropper and swim it just off the bottom. Add only enough weight to keep it low and clean. The colder it is on the river the more slight the touch. Success is tight line to the hook and set on the tiny movement of your indicator.

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: Hello: : This message is pretty similar to one I posted a while ago, but if anyone : has any new or additional comments they’d like to post, I would be most : interested. : Trying to learn a bit more (still) about fishing Midges. Aren’t we all? : Would be interested in opinions relative to to whether : midges are most productive in; : -very early spring : -heat of the summer : -fall Midges are an all year round possibility in Aus. especially in lakes. : Also, large or small flies [generally] best for each of these three seasons? Rarely less than size 18, things like black spiders, griffiths gnat, work for me.  I’d also use some more imitative pupa but prefer the simpler flies (the fish seem to as well).   Tied on a light hook the spiders (also do well as ants ) will float low in the film, a heavier hook gets them down an inch or two.     The Gnat I use mainly, when there are  mating swarms over the water, although it fishes well as a single bug too. : Thanks, : Bob Good Luck. Steve

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We have some really good midge fishing in Nevada on the East Walker River near Bridgeport, which can be fished year round.  Some of our other rivers could have good midge fishiing, but they are closed during the winter. My opinion is that midge fishing is good only when ther are not many large flies around.  Therefore midge fishiing  is usually good in the winter when the mayflies and caddis’s have disappeared, and before the stoneflies and BWO’s come out.  However, if they are the dominant fly at other times, fish will feed on them.  I carry my midge box year round, but don’t use it much in the warmer months. In regards to size, match the natural as closely as possible.  You will probably be to large!  Dry flies should be tried during the warmest part of the day.  My favorite rig is a size18-22 parachute adams as a point fly and a black midge emerger or brassie as a dropper. Good luck

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello: This message is pretty similar to one I posted a while ago, but if anyone has any new or additional comments they’d like to post, I would be most interested. Trying to learn a bit more (still) about fishing Midges. Would be interested in opinions relative to to whether midges are most productive in; -very early spring -heat of the summer -fall Also, large or small flies [generally] best for each of these three seasons? Thanks, Bob

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Hello: This message is pretty similar to one I posted a while ago, but if anyone has any new or additional comments they’d like to post, I would be most interested. Trying to learn a bit more (still) about fishing Midges. Would be interested in opinions relative to to whether midges are most productive in; -very early spring -heat of the summer -fall Also, large or small flies [generally] best for each of these three seasons? Thanks, Bob

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midges are most productive in; -very early spring -heat of the summer -fall

Actually Bob, I have had some of my best days with midges during warm spells in January and February.  The best times will naturally correspond to the hatching regimes if the midges in the streams that you fish. Once the mayfly and caddis hatches are done in the summer, fish will turn there attention to terrestrials and midges, so for a general answer, late summer, fall, winter, and early spring would probably be the best times. The size of flies you use will be keyed to the insect activity in the area that you fish. You really need to put your time in on the streams, and ask questions of the local anglers. You will be surprised how quickly you will learn, and how your successes will increase. Best of luck. George Adams

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Trying to learn a bit more (still) about fishing Midges.

I hate it when I’m put on a hook and thrown in a river.  This midge’ is staying on dry ground.  :) Vern

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Trying to learn a bit more (still) about fishing Midges. Would be interested in opinions relative to to whether midges are most productive in; -very early spring -heat of the summer -fall

There is no straight forward answer to that. On many tailwaters the fish feed heavily on midges year round. In the free stone streams here in Colorado and much of the West, the only hatches still occurring in late Fall, Winter, and early Spring are midges. The surface feeding fish are generally feeding on the emerging insect and sparse flies that float in the film are usually best. Many midges are extremely tiny and although it’s best to match the size, I find that when going below a size 22 hook, hookups are a problem.  If your presentation is good enough, you can get away with using a larger fly. A dead drift presentation is a must. A long light tippet and a downstream presentation helps. When the midges are hatching heavily enough to bring the fish to the surface, you have alot of natural flies to compete with and your presentation must be right on the money because the fish won’t move for your fly.   Midge fishing can be fun but it is very fussy fishing. You are usually targeting a single fish trying to get the perfect presentation and take. Sometimes you’ll get a fish on your first cast but often MANY casts must be made before you have success. Midges will bring up good fish to the surface especially in the Winter when there is no other insect activity. I’ve caught some of my better fish on midges. Also, large or small flies [generally] best for each of these three seasons?

There are lots of exceptions to this but as a general rule, Spring has the hatches of the bigger insects.  As the seasons progress, the insects get smaller in size. Willi

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I have seen midges mostly in early spring and this time of year. Looking in my notebook they seem to like waters around 55*. The lake I fish in the spring has some very large midges (#14) that the trout go bonkers for. When the Mayflies and Caddis start hatching they aren’t as common. Then again after the water temps drop I start to see them again albeit a bit smaller (#18). sf

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello: This message is pretty similar to one I posted a while ago, but if anyone has any new or additional comments they’d like to post, I would be most interested. Trying to learn a bit more (still) about fishing Midges. Would be interested in opinions relative to to whether midges are most productive in; -very early spring -heat of the summer -fall Also, large or small flies [generally] best for each of these three seasons? Thanks, Bob

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello: This message is pretty similar to one I posted a while ago, but if anyone has any new or additional comments they’d like to post, I would be most interested. Trying to learn a bit more (still) about fishing Midges. Would be interested in opinions relative to to whether midges are most productive in; -very early spring -heat of the summer -fall Also, large or small flies [generally] best for each of these three seasons? Thanks, Bob

All others posting a reply assume you are interested in fishing rivers.   On many lakes and reservoirs midge fishing is the best game going from Nov-April, assuming you can find open water.  The lake midges can be very large by river standards, sizes 12-16.  4x tippets will work with the jumbo imitations and are probably necessary since the lakes will give up a lot of 20+ inch fish.  This will be a very lazy style of fishing, seldom to visible fish.  I look for a shoal area in which fish are occasionally seen taking midges on the surface, and just fish the water with a floating line and a very SLOW hand-twist retrieve.

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Question:

Well, you could use the simple approach and just try to match the bugs on the water with a fly that is close in size and colour.  That will generally work about 90% of the time.  And you don’t need to learn all the entymology either.  All you have to know is that trout eat bugs, and most of the time they eat the kind of bugs that are hatching at the time.  Fly fishing does not have to be technical, but a lot of people tend to try to make it so. Cheers from the wet coast.

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…  And you don’t need to learn all the entymology either.  All you have to know is that trout eat bugs, and most of the time they eat the kind of bugs that are hatching at the time.  Fly fishing does not have to be technical, but a lot of people tend to try to make it so. …

The great beauty of it, and much of the appeal of flyfishing for me, is that you’ve got it exactly right. You can make it as technical as you want… or not. For some it’s rewarding and challenging to do some amateur entomology, others, who catch just as many fish, are content to tie on a fly that looks close enough in size and color without caring much about the latin name of the beast they’re matching. The question though was how to identify hatches and for that I do recommend at least a little bit of aquatic entomology. My favorite book on the subject is the pricey but beautiful classic, _Aquatic Entomology_ by W. Patrick McCafferty. — Ken Fortenberry Illini 2 – Tar Heels 1

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But I have no idea how to identify what’s on the water, nor how to match it with a fly (I’m at the stage where I can’t tell a caddis from a mayfly.)  What;s the best approach to teaching myself?

Some simple small books that you can keep in your vest are the Orvis books: Trout Stream Insects by Dick Pobst (ISBN 1-55821-067-9) The Caddisfly Handbook by Dick Pobst and Carl Richards (ISBN 1-55821-542-5) These two have color photos, recommended artificials, and hatch charts for east and west US to help you narrow down the search. Tight lines, Peter Simonson

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Cheers from the wet coast.

Hm….what an odd place you live in!  ;-)

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Yah, well, when you get rain most of the year, and they call it the "coastal rainforest", it does tend to get a few nicknames.  But, hey, the salmon are coming like gangbusters right now and I have to make a business trip to Calgary.  I’ll have to condescend to fish that large creek they call the Bow and harass a few trout.  Then it’s out to the local streams for the Pinks, Coho and Chinook on the fly.  Cheers from Vancouver, BC, the Wet Coast.

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Question:

I was noticing that someone posted a question earlier in this newsgroup asking if there were any books illustrating the lifecycles of flies in certain parts of the US at various times of the year.  I am also looking for info on a good beginning FF setup.  Therefore, if anyone has some good book suggestions on how to choose the right fly depending on where you are and what you’re fishing for as well as any books/catalogs that describe FF equipment and techniques, please post them. Thanks in advance, The Iceburg

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FlyFishing for Dummies is pretty damn good and as simple as things get. Tim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was noticing that someone posted a question earlier in this newsgroup asking if there were any books illustrating the lifecycles of flies in certain parts of the US at various times of the year.  I am also looking for info on a good beginning FF setup.  Therefore, if anyone has some good book suggestions on how to choose the right fly depending on where you are and what you’re fishing for as well as any books/catalogs that describe FF equipment and techniques, please post them. Thanks in advance, The Iceburg

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Question:

and all thier relatives live up here in Nova Scotia – long live the Canadian Air Force ! To quote an angler whose name escapes me, "There isn’t a single blackfly in the Adirondacks – they’re all married with very large families!"

– Bill Curry Tight Lines Guide Service Lockeport, Nova Scotia, Canada Phone or Fax :  902-656-3329 http://www.tightlines.ns.ca

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Hi I’m travelling to Schroon Lake for the third week of June: 20-27. I heard the blackfly season should be over by then. Can anyone help me confirm this, or should I bring a case of deet with me? Thanks, Henry

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Yup – the black flies will be gone, but the mosquitos will just be starting.

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To quote an angler whose name escapes me, "There isn’t a single blackfly in the Adirondacks – they’re all married with very large families!"

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Hi I’m travelling to Schroon Lake for the third week of June: 20-27. I heard the blackfly season should be over by then. Can anyone help me confirm this, or should I bring a case of deet with me? Thanks, Henry

Henry,     You’ll be missing the black flies, but will hit the real beginning of the mosquitos, the no-see-ums, and the height of the deerflies.  Leave the DEET at home; it damages your liver and turns the no-see-ums and deerflies into mean drunks.  A nice side-by-side 28-guage would be just right (#12 shot).   Or go naked and lose ten pounds a day. Bob Scott

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Thanks everybody for all your help (I think) -h – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m travelling to Schroon Lake for the third week of June: 20-27. I heard the blackfly season should be over by then. Can anyone help me confirm this, or should I bring a case of deet with me? Mosquitoes follow blackfly, and an important difference is that mosquitoes bite you under canvas (and I’ve never understood why blackfly do not.)  The main thing is that mosquito attacks are worst in the open at sunset, when the fishing is often best: to concentrate on the fishing, most anglers need some sort of fly repellant. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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I’m travelling to Schroon Lake for the third week of June: 20-27. I heard the blackfly season should be over by then. Can anyone help me confirm this, or should I bring a case of deet with me?

Mosquitoes follow blackfly, and an important difference is that mosquitoes bite you under canvas (and I’ve never understood why blackfly do not.)  The main thing is that mosquito attacks are worst in the open at sunset, when the fishing is often best: to concentrate on the fishing, most anglers need some sort of fly repellant. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Question:

A great knot.  I use it for building leaders and for joining tippets.  Easy to tie, and very strong.  I loop it three times on both pieces. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -One knot that you don’t see much of for line-to-line connections is the double or "back-to-back" uni-knot.  Has anybody tried this one besides me? Tinca

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Not sure I recall uni-knots exactly, but I use what I was taught to call "double-grinners" (british term) which may be the same thing. Bulkier than blood-knot but against steelhead they help me.   Easy to tie – after the 600-th time.           -rork.

: A great knot.  I use it for building leaders and for joining tippets.  Easy : to tie, and very strong.  I loop it three times on both pieces. : One knot that you don’t see much of for line-to-line connections is the : double or "back-to-back" uni-knot.  Has anybody tried this one besides : me? : Tinca

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Not sure I recall uni-knots exactly, but I use what I was taught to call "double-grinners" (british term) which may be the same thing. Bulkier than blood-knot but against steelhead they help me.   Easy to tie – after the 600-th time.

How bout some instructions for the colonists Lou B

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Well give the bleeding unit-knot instructions first  :) Really, I was gonna describe it but it is hard to describe knots for me: Double Grinner:     wrap the tag end of strand a around b, about 3-5 times (not so important, just gets some twist set-up).  Bring the tag end back to the start of the wraps – this makes a loop which you now put the tag end through 3-5 times (smaller lines=more times).  You are making the second set of wraps in the same direction and handedness as the first set.    That makes one half of the knot, do the same for the other half as for any knot in the fisherman’s/blood-knot family.  Pull the two ends tight againt each other.  I partially tighted each side first – they "turn inside out" like lotsa other monofilament knots.  I think it’s mentioned in "The trout and the fly".  - also a colonist. Soon out in paper-back:     my decription of the modified Krey’s-improved bimini-twist……

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One knot that you don’t see much of for line-to-line connections is the double or "back-to-back" uni-knot.  Has anybody tried this one besides me?

This is the knot I always use. I also use the Uni(Duncan Loop) for my terminal connection. I have rarely had any problems with breakage at the terminal connection and the only time I have had a break at the tippet/leader was in breaking off a snag. I can not imagine any weakening with the Uni-knot joining the two pieces of line. With the wraps snugging up it seems to be very secure. Also, it is easy! regards, jw        J. Webb (Preferred)    |    Atlanta Mac User Group         jwebb *AT* netdepot *DOT* com |joe_webb *AT* atlmug *DOT* org

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nothing to beat the uni knot for any thing – greta knot for night fishingas you can tie it with your eyes closed. One knot that you don’t see much of for line-to-line connections is the double or "back-to-back" uni-knot.  Has anybody tried this one besides me?

– Tinca

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I’ve done my own tests on several knots, and I really don’t know where this nonsense about the blood knot being stronger than surgeons comes from. None of my tests have ever shown this, and most books I’ve seen confirm this. One knot that you don’t see much of for line-to-line connections is the double or "back-to-back" uni-knot.  Has anybody tried this one besides me?

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I’ve done my own tests on several knots, and I really don’t know where this nonsense about the blood knot being stronger than surgeons comes from. None of my tests have ever shown this, and most books I’ve seen confirm this. One knot that you don’t see much of for line-to-line connections is the double or "back-to-back" uni-knot.  Has anybody tried this one besides me? I’ve done my own tests on several knots, and I really don’t know where this nonsense about the blood knot being stronger than surgeons comes from. None of my tests have ever shown this, and most books I’ve seen confirm this. One knot that you don’t see much of for line-to-line connections is the double or "back-to-back" uni-knot.  Has anybody tried this one besides me?

Yeah, I use the uni-knot all the time Bryce

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Mark asks: Hello, Does anyone have any suggestions for  a good strong relatively easy to tie knot for attaching a tippet to a leader.  I know the traditional barrel and double surgens knots.  The problem I’ve been having, which is quite irritating, is the knot that attaches the tippet is weaker than the one attaching the fly, so when I hang up the tippet breaks off  as well as the fly.  When I’m nymph fishing I feel like I spend a great amount of time standing in the creek attaching new tippets.  I switched to a Filson knot to attach the fly to the tippet since I found it was stronger than a clinch knot. I hate the idea of switching to a weaker terminal knot just to save having to retie the tippet each time I hang up, which as you know can be lot.    Has anynone else had this experience and what is the solution.   Thanks, Mark Watson

Mark, I feel there is another issue maybe, buried in here….. that is the *quality* of how one ties a knot….  A poorly tied knot is much weaker than it should be.   I feel several of the knots mentioned ought to get you out of your problem, yet from the post …. seems that doesn’t occur….. makes me think there is a "hidden variable"…. that is the quality of the knot itself and not the design of the knot…..   For "barrel" or blood knots a couple of things… never tie with more than one or 2 thousands difference in the diameters of the leader end and the tippet… otherwise use the loop or the surgeon’s knot…. make the starter set of windings of the blood knot even and unkinked with the two ends pointing in opposite directions.   Wet the total bundle (good ole spit)  and smoothly but firmly pull them taut.   clip excess ends. In teaching this knot to others I have found many who try to pull the knot taut without wetting it or with the preloops not neat and unkinked….   Pratice at home with light tippet and test with a scale until you achieve about 90 % consistently for several knots… Good luck, Alan Alan E. Hoover       to quote one of my favorite authors: "Fly fishing is such great fun, it really ought to be done in bed"  John Voelker, aka Robert Traver

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Mark asks: Hello, Does anyone have any suggestions for  a good strong relatively easy to tie knot for attaching a tippet to a leader.  I know the traditional barrel and double surgens knots.  The problem I’ve been having, which is quite irritating, is the knot that attaches the tippet is weaker than the one attaching the fly, so when I hang up the tippet breaks off  as well as the fly.  When I’m nymph fishing I feel like I spend a great amount of time standing in the creek attaching new tippets.  I switched to a Filson knot to attach the fly to the tippet since I found it was stronger than a clinch knot. I hate the idea of switching to a weaker terminal knot just to save having to retie the tippet each time I hang up, which as you know can be lot.    Has anynone else had this experience and what is the solution.   Thanks, Mark Watson

So much good information has come from this post that I hate to even introduce this, but does anyone else other than me use a little dab of Zap-A-Gap on the knots just to make sure? It’s a cyanoacrylate glue much like crazy glue and only takes a few seconds to dry. Maybe it’s a crude remedy but I got tired of losing the fly, tippet, and even more so the fish. — Frank Tosczak

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  There are several terminal mono knots that are "100% strength" knots   (e.g. Trilene knot).     I’ve never seen a test of the trilene knot that rated it 100% – but   it maybe stronger than either a blood or double surgeon. the best you can get out of a blood knot (6 or more barrels) is around 75%.  Surgeon’s is better.  The trilene and I believe the double turle are supposed to be full strength.

FWIW I checked my copy of Lefty kreh/ Mark Sosin’s Pratical Knots II ; the improved clinch was reported to test out at no better than 95%, the Trilene was listed as ’stronger’ than an improved clinch. A Palomar knot was said to be near 100%. The double surgeon loop or it’s half brother the double surgeon were both reported to provide near 100%. The only full 100% knots listed were the doubled loops such as the Bimini twist and the snelled hooks beloved of bait fishers. Ralph H

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  FWIW I checked my copy of Lefty kreh/ Mark Sosin’s Pratical Knots II ;   the improved clinch was reported to test out at no better than 95%, the   Trilene was listed as ’stronger’ than an improved clinch. A Palomar knot was   said to be near 100%. The double surgeon loop or it’s half brother the double   surgeon were both reported to provide near 100%.

Ok, so the trilene knot is 95% strength according to your source. My source says full-strength.  There is no difference between these claims.  Experimental uncertainty would easily cover such a trivial difference. As for the double surgeon’s knot, I really don’t think it is even close to 100%.  If it were, is that to say that the "triple surgeon’s" knot is redundant?  I can easily be wrong.  But the flyfisherman article I recall claimed that the best line-to-line knots are still <90% – including the double surgeons etc.  Again, I could easily be wrong.  My own experience with all these line-to-line knots confirms that they are weaker than terminal knots.  But who am I to argue with Lefty kreh eh? Anyway, I don’t get too worried about all this.  I use =8lb test and the only time I ever break my line is when I screw up and do something dumbassed on a fish or when I get snagged.  I don’t think that my 14′ 9wt rod is even capable of breaking 8lb test line. By the way, for anyone interested, the virtual flyshop (www.flyshop.com I think) has a nice set of drawings on how to tie any of the knots mentioned in this discussion. cheers,         -tgades (a good-old 6-barrel bloodknot aficionado) — Tony Gades. Seattle, WA.  USA http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades/Fishing/fish_page.html email: replace the "this_address_is_wrong" with "tgades"

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   the double surgeon should be stronger than the knot to the fly if tied   properly. Be sure to wet the knot tighten slowly and DO NOT tighten apply the   final tightening pull to the tag ends only to the main line. Tightening the   tag ends binds the main line and considerably weakens the knot.   Ralph H There are several terminal mono knots that are "100% strength" knots (e.g. Trilene knot).  While strong, I don’t think I’ve seen results of tests of any line-to-line knots (including the double surgeon) that can do 100%. cheers,        -tgades

I’ve never seen a test of the trilene knot that rated it 100% – but it maybe stronger than either a blood or double surgeon. By the way welcome back, how was your trip to the balmy south. Ralph H

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I’ve used the barrel knot for years with a Turl (sp?) Knot for fly connection and it’s always worked well.  Is it that you don’t want to tie a barrel knot???  Or that your barrel knot is breaking?   Or that you are using a knot to connect the fly that is a stronger knot than the barrel knot?

The basic problem is that the knot the knot I’ve been using to attach the fly (a filson knot) is much stronger than any barrel or double surgeons I’ve been able to tie.  Previously I always used a clinch knot for the fly, but I found a stronger knot for the terminal end, so I was hoping to find one for the tippet/leader junction.    (I also dislike tying the barrell knot especially in the late evening when fish are rising all around and its hard to see) I could solve my problem by switching back to a weaker knot to attach the fly.  From the sound of some of the other posters that sounds like the way to go, but I was hoping that someone would have a better solution. Thanks again, Mark Watson

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve used the barrel knot for years with a Turl (sp?) Knot for fly connection and it’s always worked well.  Is it that you don’t want to tie a barrel knot???  Or that your barrel knot is breaking?   Or that you are using a knot to connect the fly that is a stronger knot than the barrel knot? Barry Hello, Does anyone have any suggestions for  a good strong relatively easy to tie knot for attaching a tippet to a leader.  I know the traditional barrel and double surgens knots.  The problem I’ve been having, which is quite irritating, is the knot that attaches the tippet is weaker than the one attaching the fly, so when I hang up the tippet breaks off  as well as the fly.  When I’m nymph fishing I feel like I spend a great amount of time standing in the creek attaching new tippets.  I switched to a Filson knot to attach the fly to the tippet since I found it was stronger than a clinch knot. I hate the idea of switching to a weaker terminal knot just to save having to retie the tippet each time I hang up, which as you know can be lot.    Has anynone else had this experience and what is the solution. Thanks, Mark Watson

I use a loop to loop connection, with a loop knot the name of which I can’t recall, but it’s in lefty kreh and mark sosin’s knot book.  I use a clinch knot for the fly connection, and that almost always breaks first.  Even if it doesn’t, the knot that breaks is the tippet side of the loop to loop, so I just make a new tippet, and attach it, with no overall leader length loss.  Works great, you should try it. — Andrew Brunette

Response:

   There are several terminal mono knots that are "100% strength" knots    (e.g. Trilene knot).  While strong, I don’t think I’ve seen results of    tests of any line-to-line knots (including the double surgeon) that    can do 100%.        cheers,                -tgades       I’ve never seen a test of the trilene knot that rated it 100% – but   it maybe stronger than either a blood or double surgeon.

the best you can get out of a blood knot (6 or more barrels) is around 75%.  Surgeon’s is better.  The trilene and I believe the double turle are supposed to be full strength.   By the way welcome back, how was your trip to the balmy south.

The Antarctic field season (nov,dec,jan) was very good and productive, though the weather was poor this year and we spent a total of 30+days waiting for flights in the field. The fishing in NZ (24Jan-5Mar) was excellent once again.  After 4 years in a row fishing for a month or more in NZ, it seems more and more fun.  I’ll likely be heading back once again next year.  I’ll let you know when I scan in a few pics from the 98 NZ season.  I caught some tremendous browns this year.  I still have a few pictures from last year:         http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades/Fishing/NZ/NZ_97.html Since I’ve been home I’ve hooked 2 steelhead, landed 1.  I scanned a picture of this beautiful native hen.  It is at the top of my fish page:         http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades/Fishing/fish_page.html cheers,         -tgades — Tony Gades. Seattle, WA.  USA http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades/Fishing/fish_page.html email: replace the "this_address_is_wrong" with "tgades"

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  the double surgeon should be stronger than the knot to the fly if tied   properly. Be sure to wet the knot tighten slowly and DO NOT tighten apply the   final tightening pull to the tag ends only to the main line. Tightening the   tag ends binds the main line and considerably weakens the knot.   Ralph H

There are several terminal mono knots that are "100% strength" knots (e.g. Trilene knot).  While strong, I don’t think I’ve seen results of tests of any line-to-line knots (including the double surgeon) that can do 100%. cheers,         -tgades — Tony Gades. Seattle, WA.  USA http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades/Fishing/fish_page.html email: replace the "this_address_is_wrong" with "tgades"

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Hello, Does anyone have any suggestions for  a good strong relatively easy to tie knot for attaching a tippet to a leader.  I know the traditional barrel and double surgens knots.  The problem I’ve been having, which is quite irritating, is the knot that attaches the tippet is weaker than the one attaching the fly, so when I hang up the tippet breaks off  

the double surgeon should be stronger than the knot to the fly if tied properly. Be sure to wet the knot tighten slowly and DO NOT tighten apply the final tightening pull to the tag ends only to the main line. Tightening the tag ends binds the main line and considerably weakens the knot. Ralph H

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Hello, Does anyone have any suggestions for  a good strong relatively easy to tie knot for attaching a tippet to a leader.  I know the traditional barrel and double surgens knots.  The problem I’ve been having, which is quite irritating, is the knot that attaches the tippet is weaker than the one attaching the fly, so when I hang up the tippet breaks off  as well as the fly.  When I’m nymph fishing I feel like I spend a great amount of time standing in the creek attaching new tippets.  I switched to a Filson knot to attach the fly to the tippet since I found it was stronger than a clinch knot. I hate the idea of switching to a weaker terminal knot just to save having to retie the tippet each time I hang up, which as you know can be lot.    Has anynone else had this experience and what is the solution.   Thanks, Mark Watson

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -knot for attaching a tippet to a leader.  I know the traditional barrel and double surgens knots.  The problem I’ve been having, which is quite irritating, is the knot that attaches the tippet is weaker than the one attaching the fly, so when I hang up the tippet breaks off  as well as the fly.  When I’m nymph fishing I feel like I spend a great amount of time standing in the creek attaching new tippets.  I switched to a Filson knot to attach the fly to the tippet since I found it was stronger than a clinch knot. I hate the idea of switching to a weaker terminal knot just to save having to retie the tippet each time I hang up, which as you know can be lot.    Has anynone else had this experience and what is the solution.   Thanks, Mark Watson

Hi Mark. Depending on how much time I have, I’ll use the Blood Knot or the Double Surgeon’s Knot. The Blood Knot takes longer to tie, but is stronger, so I use it when I’m rigging before I go to the river. If I’m on the stream and I get a wind knot that I can’t untie very close to the tippet/leader knot, they I’ll cut off my existing tippet and use a Double Surgeon’s Knot to put a new one on. That’s just what I use. Bryce    

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I’ve used the barrel knot for years with a Turl (sp?) Knot for fly connection and it’s always worked well.  Is it that you don’t want to tie a barrel knot???  Or that your barrel knot is breaking?   Or that you are using a knot to connect the fly that is a stronger knot than the barrel knot? Barry – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello, Does anyone have any suggestions for  a good strong relatively easy to tie knot for attaching a tippet to a leader.  I know the traditional barrel and double surgens knots.  The problem I’ve been having, which is quite irritating, is the knot that attaches the tippet is weaker than the one attaching the fly, so when I hang up the tippet breaks off  as well as the fly.  When I’m nymph fishing I feel like I spend a great amount of time standing in the creek attaching new tippets.  I switched to a Filson knot to attach the fly to the tippet since I found it was stronger than a clinch knot. I hate the idea of switching to a weaker terminal knot just to save having to retie the tippet each time I hang up, which as you know can be lot.    Has anynone else had this experience and what is the solution. Thanks, Mark Watson

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Question:

I have an opportunity to fish the Keys in April.  I’ve done the flats in May and light tackle blue water in December, both were great.  What am I in store for in April?  Any "shouldn’t miss" suggestions? -Chuck –

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I have an opportunity to fish the Keys in April.  I’ve done the flats in May and light tackle blue water in December, both were great.  What am I in store for in April?  Any "shouldn’t miss" suggestions? -Chuck –

April/May/June and Oct/Nov are good months for flats fishing in the Keys. April is the start of the tarpon fishing in the Keys. You can fish for bonefish and permit also. I think May is the heart of the tarpon fishing with most of the best guides all booked up. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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I have an opportunity to fish the Keys in April.  I’ve done the flats in May and light tackle blue water in December, both were great.  What am I in store for in April?  Any "shouldn’t miss" suggestions? -Chuck –

Chuck, April is a great month to fish because the permit are still thick and any calm days offer an opportunity for tarpon.  Also the water’s not too hot to keep bonefish from coming up on the flats during the middle of the day (as it can be June-August.  One more positive is that most people don’t realize how good the fishing is–as compared to the frenzy of May/June–so there’s not quite so much competition for fishing spots.  Terrific permit fishing lasts up through the first two weeks of April and can last into late April if the wind keeps blowing.  Serious numbers of tarpon will migrate through toward the end of the month, but you’re more likely to get great fishing in April because the fish will not have been beat on and tend to eat better.   Hope this helps. Marshall Cutchin

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Question:

Where, *exactly*, should I add split-shot on a WF-5-F line, or leader.

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I like to put it right next to the fly so that it looks like a head. I, of course, have no idea if that is correct or not.

Response:

Where, *exactly*, should I add split-shot on a WF-5-F line, or leader.

The closer to the fly usually causes less tangling problems. Another method I use is to add a short section of lead core line between my leader butt section and the tipppet section. Some people find that easier to cast. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

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: I like to put it right next to the fly so that it looks like a head. I, of : course, have no idea if that is correct or not. If it catches fish, it _is_ correct! ;-   Anywhere from about 18 inches up on the tippet to down close to the fly will do the trick. Another suggestion would be to use a section of lead core line. What you do is form a loop in each end and overwrap it with thread. Use a loop to loop connection to attach it to the flyline or the tippet end of the leader. There are premade ones out there also. The advantage to this is that it removes that "clunkiness" from the casting that is associated with the use split shot. Jon Porter

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Where, *exactly*, should I add split-shot on a WF-5-F line, or leader. The closer to the fly usually causes less tangling problems. Another method I use is to add a short section of lead core line between my leader butt section and the tipppet section. Some people find that easier to cast. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

Too close to the fly can ruin the swimming action.  Leave at least a couple of feet for most flies. — Richard Nelson Spokane, Wa. "Its not that life is so short, its that death is sooo long."  

Question:

I’m new to this sport and love it!  Wonder where I can go for some good fishing that is in close proximity to home (Bryan, Texas)?  I’d like to be able to get there pretty quick and still spend a couple  hours after work fishing.  Any advice?   Also, I’m going to be down near Corpus Christi in July, any suggestions there?   Thanks in advance for the advice! Mark Klemm

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I’m new to this sport and love it!  Wonder where I can go for some good fishing that is in close proximity to home (Bryan, Texas)?  I’d like to be able to get there pretty quick and still spend a couple  hours after work fishing.  Any advice?   Also, I’m going to be down near Corpus Christi in July, any suggestions there?   Thanks in advance for the advice! Mark Klemm

Mark, almost any place that has fish, you can fly fish.  Don’t think that it is restricted to trout.  If you want to fish for trout however, try the Guadalupe where it comes out of Canyon(?) Dam.  That area is stocked, and is currently getting good press about the success of the program. Also, you can fly fish the same Guadalupe for bass. Small streamers are best, however even large wooly buggers and mariboo steamers will work…..   Dee Crabtree DeeCrab*ibm.net

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Question:

Jensen) writes: Looking for foul weather gear

I would not look too hard for a bargin when looking for raingear, you will regret it later.  Get yourself some Grundens, Guy Cottons, or as a last resort some Helly Hansons(although Hellys have really gone down hill lately).  I work in the seafood industry in Alaska, and I have found that Grundens makes the best raingear out there.  And you can get it in day glow colors if you want to.  Look at comercial fishing outlets for them.

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: I would not look too hard for a bargin when looking for raingear, you will : regret it later.  Get yourself some Grundens, Guy Cottons, or as a last : resort some Helly Hansons(although Hellys have really gone down hill : lately).  I work in the seafood industry in Alaska, and I have found that : Grundens makes the best raingear out there.  And you can get it in day : glow colors if you want to.  Look at comercial fishing outlets for them. faulies, not me. But I would like to check out a commercial supplier in LA or OC, just to see what’s there.  Anyone know where to find one?

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-    I’m looking for foul weather gear but don’t want to pay the high prices – that the local stores charge.  Is there a good mail order place for this – stuff? I recently found a Helly Hansen mfg’s outlet store near Kenosha, Wisconsin.  I think they were just trying to sell yuppie sweaters and similar trendy stuff and they had their real foul weather gear on the shelf just to impress people. Never the less, they did have everything from their low end, $120 suits, to their high end, $900 suits.  They also had a hand written tag that explained in detail why each item was a mfg defect.  If I didn’t already have a suit I would have been very tempted to buy a $270 suit for $180 because they got their name embrodered on the wrong corner of the pocket. G. Jackson

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        I postedthis elsewhere so I’ll post it here.  Don’t get sucked in by all that expensive sailing oriented shit.  Read on.      On my first ocean cruise in 1981, I bought some "Offshore" foul weather gear at R.E.I. in Seattle.  Total piece of shit. After some pretty rough usage (we lost a rudder) and 31 days at sea, the seams leaked.  I took them back to R.E.I.  They said that they wern’t meant for the kind of sailing I do, but for the "weekend" sailor." I said "Well why the fuck! do you call it "Offshore"? To make a long story short, they wouldn’t refund my money and it just confirmed my opinion of R.E.I. as a fashion house for frustrated yuuppies. Growing up in Seattle, I have resisted the R.E.I Clone look mightily although I have to admit, Pile Jackets are great for me as I’m allergic to wool.      Where is this leading to?      Buy Helly Hansen fisherman foul weather gear. No seams, no fly, no pockets, NO LEAK!!!!  I’ve worn mine for 10 years fishing in Alaska and California and on many trans ocean sails.  Still wearing them.  My mother is borrowing them for a river rafting trip this month.  About $80 last time I bought (I have two pair) — — Turn off ascii capture on the personal computer 4;1H Press the <Return Key to return to mail … —

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     On my first ocean cruise in 1981, I bought some "Offshore" foul weather gear at R.E.I. in Seattle.  Total piece of shit. After some pretty rough usage (we lost a rudder) and 31 days at sea, the seams leaked.  I took them back to R.E.I.  They said that they wern’t meant for the kind of sailing I do, but for the "weekend" sailor."I said "Well why the fuck! do you call it "Offshore"? To make a long story short, they wouldn’t refund my money and it just confirmed my opinion of R.E.I. as a fashion house for frustrated yuuppies. Growing up in Seattle, I have resisted the R.E.I Clone look mightily although I have to admit, Pile Jackets are great for me as I’m allergic to wool.      Where is this leading to?      Buy HELLY HANSEN fisherman foul weather gear. No seams, no fly, no pockets, NO LEAK!!!! And they are tough as steel and easy to patch. I’ve worn mine for 10 years fishing in Alaska and California and on many trans ocean sails.  Still  wearing them.  My mother is borrowing them for a river rafting  trip this month.  About $80 last time I bought (I have two pair) —

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     I’m looking for foul weather gear but don’t want to pay the high prices that the local stores charge.  Is there a good mail order place for this stuff?                                      we suck!"

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:      I’m looking for foul weather gear but don’t want to pay the high prices : that the local stores charge.  Is there a good mail order place for this : stuff? I wouldn’t do it.  I would rather have something that fits.  I ended up with a "Grotto" jacket from Boat/US and Explorer trousers from West Marine because each fit properly.  (I can hear them fighting in the closet.) It’s kind of hit and miss because everything is S/M/L/XL. My biggest disapointment was the lack of rad colors. And my BIG IDEA, now placed in the public domain, is glow-in-the-dark zippers – so you can get them on at 3 am.

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