Question:

How many people?  Do you have a separate fly? Set out the ground cloth, set out the fly, work between them (it helps, but is not required, to have helpers stabilizing the fly). Depends a lot on specifics,such as tent style, etc. Practice at home. Dan — + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – "Science finds, Industry applies, Man conforms." motto of the 1933 Chicago World’s Fair + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + –

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet? [I've never had to do it...yet] set up a tarp first. Penny S I’m trying to LOSE weight from my pack, not add to it!! Ruger9 Then leave the tent home.  It weighs a lot more than the tarp. I spent 5 nights in Yellowstone last fall with only a tarp and it rained 4 of those 5 nights.  One night, we had 3 hours of thunderstorms with heavy rain.  Pitch the tent right (pay attention to the weather before you pitch it) and you stay dry. The morning after the thunderstorms, the two of us who slept under the tarp were up and out of camp in less than an hour.  The two who slept in tents that night waited two hours for their tents to dry and then complained that they didn’t have any time for fishing…

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I’m trying to LOSE weight from my pack, not add to it!! Ruger9

Then skip the tent and just take a tarp.  That’s what I do anyway. There are a few tents — like the Wanderlust Nomad — made of Sil-nylon which does not absorb any water.  Shaking it removes all water. My tarp is made of sil-nylon.  After a couple shakes it’s completely dry.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet? [I've never had to do it...yet] set up a tarp first. Penny S I’m trying to LOSE weight from my pack, not add to it!! Ruger9

Then leave the tent home.  It weighs a lot more than the tarp. I spent 5 nights in Yellowstone last fall with only a tarp and it rained 4 of those 5 nights.  One night, we had 3 hours of thunderstorms with heavy rain.  Pitch the tent right (pay attention to the weather before you pitch it) and you stay dry. The morning after the thunderstorms, the two of us who slept under the tarp were up and out of camp in less than an hour.  The two who slept in tents that night waited two hours for their tents to dry and then complained that they didn’t have any time for fishing…

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Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet? [I've never had to do it...yet]

You’re lucky: where & when I normally go is the rainy season, and 3-4 days of solid rain isn’t all that uncommon. The worst part isn’t the tent getting wet so much as that by the 3rd day or so *everything* is either wet or 100% saturated. It’s easier if you can stay at a base camp and leave everything set up, but often that’s not do-able. Bummer packing around 20 lbs of water and very few people can remain optimistic on day no.4 of being cold & wet. I know you leave the doors & windows zipped closed, but if you set up the tent body, which is permeable nylon, and it’s getting poured on while you get the poles connected to it, all that water is going to eventually end up inside the tent, I would think…

It depends on the tent. I can do that with the 1-man (actually I put the poles in position under the rainfly and then raise the tent with the rainfly laying on top of it). The 2-man or family tents need to have the windows or doors open -particularly if the fabric is wet- else they don’t want to go up at all. With them I just do it as quickly as possible and then mop up the floor when it’s up. Maybe unroll the tent, quickly put the whole mess under the fly, and do everything under the rain fly, as best as possible?

And that works if it’s not too windy. — JLG

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Single wall, tent (e.g., Stephensons) Popup Rainfly first (if so built) Tarp. Sulk inside your poncho until you get desperate enough. Pack a large sponge. Practice like NASCAR pitcrews do.  If they can change 4 tires, add 40 gal of fuel, clean the windshield, tweak the suspension, read the joke section of Playboy, and conduct an interview with a sports announcer in 17 secs, then it seems a simple matter to toss a tent up and get in it before getting too damp. But then it all goes to hell in a kitbag if there are big winds as well.

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just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet?

Waiting can help.  There are steady rains and there are downpours, but even a hurricane has an eye.  Eventually, rain lets up a little, even if it doesn’t stop.   Steve Silberberg Steve’s Tiny Book of Romance http://www.callipygianproductions.com/stbor/stbor.html "For man so feared his ignorance, that he created god in his image"-Eric 3:16

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Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet? [I've never had to do it...yet] set up a tarp first. Penny S

I’m trying to LOSE weight from my pack, not add to it!! Ruger9

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| Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens | just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any | tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the | INSIDE of the tent (very) wet? | [I've never had to do it...yet] | | I know you leave the doors & windows zipped closed, but if you set up | the tent body, which is permeable nylon, and it’s getting poured on | while you get the poles connected to it, all that water is going to | eventually end up inside the tent, I would think… | | Maybe unroll the tent, quickly put the whole mess under the fly, and | do everything under the rain fly, as best as possible? | | Ruger9 I pitch a tarp first, then the tent underneath it. — FlyingCoyote http://www.boarsgut.com —

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[ Ruger9 ] Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet?

Use a tent where you pitch the outer first, like Hilleberg or Helsport (the primary brand here in Norway). I’ve camped in too much bad weather to risk using one where the inner is pitched first. I see how using only the inner is nice in places with very stable weather and bugs, but I don’t trust the weather around here that much. Martin — "An ideal world is left as an exercise to the reader."                                                  -Paul Graham, On Lisp

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Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet? [I've never had to do it...yet] I know you leave the doors & windows zipped closed, but if you set up the tent body, which is permeable nylon, and it’s getting poured on while you get the poles connected to it, all that water is going to eventually end up inside the tent, I would think… Maybe unroll the tent, quickly put the whole mess under the fly, and do everything under the rain fly, as best as possible? Ruger9

That generally is the way to go, but some designs are better for this than others. Ideal would be the ones where you can set up poles and fly, then open the groundsheet and body underneath. There are also designs from TNF and Walrus which have the poles pre-attached, which speeds up set up. Of course, with practice and teamwork, you can set up in a few minutes. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom

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Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet? [I've never had to do it...yet] I know you leave the doors & windows zipped closed, but if you set up the tent body, which is permeable nylon, and it’s getting poured on while you get the poles connected to it, all that water is going to eventually end up inside the tent, I would think… Maybe unroll the tent, quickly put the whole mess under the fly, and do everything under the rain fly, as best as possible? Ruger9

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Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet? [I've never had to do it...yet]

set up a tarp first. Penny S

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Question:

Jim Benenson wrote How about the worst fly fishing abuse in this forum?

Back in ‘78 I visited Wisconsin and a guy there introduced me to using a 9ft. flyrod to worm fish for brookies.  Ironically, when you’re fishing in streams with lots of canopy and brush, the long flexible rod is the ideal weapon for gently dropping the worm right in the little eddy or undercut. If you were flyfishing one of these streams, you’d probably be using no more than a 7ft or less. —                                                       -dnc-

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I was part of a discussion on a coffee newsgroup about the worst coffee ever made.  How about the worst fly fishing abuse in this forum?  I once trolled for pickerel in Connecticut with a Daredevil spoon and my Orvis 8 wt. bamboo rod.  Caught some too! How about you?

I was fishing the Gunpowder River north of Baltimore last July, right below Prettyboy Dam. The state was in the middle of the worst drought and heat spell in years, but the water authorities were dumping water from the Prettyboy Reservoir at maximum rate, presumably to water the partched lawns in Baltimore. Anyway, I wasn’t doing much good with my Woolly Buggers, and no one was around (on this artificial-only water), so I turned over some boards and logs, found some nice, juicy worms, and just cleaned up on the brown trout. One cast, one trout. Repeat. I justified it to myself by rationalizing that I was trying to get the monster carp I saw hanging below the dropoff. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

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A ten foot six four weight with a nice small free running centrepin takes an awful lot of beating. Upstream worming is rapidly becoming a lost art.  lthough a not inconsiderable measure of excitement is also possible with a number six hook, a can of sweetcorn, and a nice clear, peaceful still-water, where carp of ten pounds and upwards are known to abound.  Even more satisfying, when one of the club members reports you to the comittee for "fly-fishing" on the lake reserved for coarse anglers. ( Or was that coarse fish ? ). Whatever, excellent sport, and not a whit less exciting than any  other method. Oh how hard it must be to forego the pleasures of diversity. Oh and I object to the word "abuse" in this context. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Jim Benenson wrote How about the worst fly fishing abuse in this forum?

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Honesty is good for the soul, confession even more so, but I defy even the most honorable angler to remain so in the face of nonchalant five pound browns ignoring every fly in the box. And the moral is, where there

Question:

Don’t need a cane rod George, I have enough trouble with a graphite one, but if I may put my 2 cents in, "By George Fly Rods" has a nice ring to it. And just for curiosity sakes, what color thread for the guides?

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What is your final choice?  And do you want an extra tip? I’ll give you a tip, George. Get out of this business before it’s too late.

; ) —

Question:

check out www.walleyecentral.com and use the message board and chat room……all kinds of help – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have just started fishing from a boat and have a few questions. 1. How do you tell how deep your line is?  If the fish finder says that the fish are at 40 feet how do you know when your line is forty feet down? 2. What is a reasonable dept to fish without going to downriggers. 3. What are planner boards for?  How do you rig them? Thanks

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We can get lines down in excess of 60 feet without the use of down riggers. The advantage of down riggers is you will have a short lead and it will take less time to bring in the fish and reset. The disadvantage to down riggers is for fish like Lake erie walleye they tend to shy away unless they are down deep because the boat traffic spooks the fish. The other disadvantage is cost. Presently we are down around 50 feet using ripcord line and 0 dispel on planar boards and you can add weight if you would like to keep leads under 200 feet. You can also try 1 dipseys and they will go to 50 feet on mono and over 70 on rip cord or braided wire. The reason we use planar boards is so we can get lines away from the boat into water where the fish have not been spooked. The other advantage is you can run upto 12 poles off the planar boards without tangling. That is enough for upto 6 people. When the weather gets rough you have to run less but you can run regular dipseys . We typically run 8 planar boards an 6 dipseys when the fish are deep and when the fish are high we run 10 planar boards and 4 dipseys. Essentially planar boards are two boards connected together so when attached to a line at front of boat several feet above the water they will pull to side of boat. this allows you to let lines out back and then attach the lines to a planar clip which is typically an alligator clip with rubber pads or you can use a shower curtain and rubber bands and wrap the rubber band around the line. The secret is to get the proper rubber band. The first couple times by some from Patco but then you can go to office supply store and buy rubber bands much less expensive in bulk. When you attach the line to the clip and to the planar board line as you let additional line out it will slide down the board line when it is just above the water stop it and then set the next line leave a 20 -30 foot space in between and then when the fish hits it will swing to back of the boat. If you use a plug or diving device like a jet dive you have to release the lure by reeling don until the line is taught and slap the handle of the pole the shock will break the rubber band if you are using ripcord or wire line with mono it is more difficult because mono tends to stretch. Then let line swing to back of boat to avoid tangles and reel in. if you are running 0 dipseys off the planar boards you must release the line from the board the same way but then real the slack and release the dipsey with a firm tug and then real right away. there are different techniues for different things you use. I hope this helps. Captain Bryce Seymour Fishing has been good to very good. The fish are moving daily in past few weeks they have moved from 12 miles out into 6 miles out in one day after a storm but then as water settled down they started moving out again. Within a few days they were at 12 miles out. The main school is off of Geneva and slightly east about 20 miles out. The captains out of Fairport have another school out west of Fairport so you can see there is not just one place to fish but most people are going off shore. I main problem has been a lot of sheep head being caught with the walleye which lowers the catches. The Fairport captains are catching between 20-40 fish but would have more if they could not have to reset lines for sheep head so often. Similar numbers out of Geneva. Watermelon is a hot color and the Geneva captains tend to use more worm harnesses while the Fairport tends to use spoons as much as possible. I have also heard of a man who was taking a floating j plug putting it on his down rigger and sending it to the bottom and then release the j-plug and about half the time he would catch a nice walleye while the plug was rising to the surface. The most prominent methods have been using 0 dipseys off ripcord off the boards. Set one side at lets say 140 , 160, 180, 200 and the other at the same but put an ounce of weight in front if you see the weighted side working more than the non weighted side then look at adding an ounce or two of weight. The advantage of this technique over wire line is you can keep the leads under 200 feet so you can catch the fish and reset faster than if your setting a line back 320 feet on wire. Ripcord is a little more forgiving than wire when raping on planar boards but can still be a nuisance if you get a good tangle. Captain Bryce Seymour http://www.chartercaptain.com/hooker/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have just started fishing from a boat and have a few questions. 1. How do you tell how deep your line is?  If the fish finder says that the fish are at 40 feet how do you know when your line is forty feet down? 2. What is a reasonable dept to fish without going to downriggers. 3. What are planner boards for?  How do you rig them? Thanks

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I have just started fishing from a boat and have a few questions. 1. How do you tell how deep your line is?  If the fish finder says that the fish are at 40 feet how do you know when your line is forty feet down? 2. What is a reasonable dept to fish without going to downriggers.   3. What are planner boards for?  How do you rig them? Thanks

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    Planner boards float on the surface of the water and pull your lure and line out to the side of the boat like a kite in the wind. Your lure then trails behind the planer board and swims at the depth that it was designed for and depending on it’s speed in the water, length of line out and size of the line. Instructions as how to rig them up are included with the boards.     There are devices that can be added directly to your line that will dive towards the bottom (pink lady is one). There depth depends on their size, weight, speed, type lure used, length of line used for trolling and size of the line.     If you want to troll deep without a downrigger, you can use lead core line. Use the 17 lb lead core line. The stronger lead core line has the same amount of lead in it but more nylon thread so though it is stronger (about 30 lbs) it will not sink as well. Or use steel line. I found that I could get down to about 70 feet deep with steel line without using heavy weights. Keep a record of all the setups you use when trolling and when you feel that you touch bottom, check the sonar for the depth, check your trolling speed and type of equipement used etc and mark it all down in a note book. The next time you want to fish at that particular depth with that particular lure setup you will know what to do. This is how old time experienced trollers knew where their lure was when fishing. Add the fact that they memorized the bottom structure, after a few years of snagging bottom, catching fish and watching the successful fishermen for tips, helped in their fishing success.     So if you want to fish at 40 feet, rig up a line, troll over a depth of 40 feet and see what you have to do to touch bottom. Note what you did and then use the same technique the next time you see fish suspended at 40 feet.     Becoming a good troller is more difficult and takes longer than becoming a good fly fisherman. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have just started fishing from a boat and have a few questions. 1. How do you tell how deep your line is?  If the fish finder says that the fish are at 40 feet how do you know when your line is forty feet down? 2. What is a reasonable dept to fish without going to downriggers. 3. What are planner boards for?  How do you rig them? Thanks

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Question:

I went fishing for Stripers last Friday on the Sacramento River between Decker Island and Rio Vista.  I didn’t have a boat, so I fished off of the banks using blood worms.  I had a few bites, but didn’t catch any fish. Does anyone have experience fishing the Delta for Stripers from shore? What baits, presentations, locations, tides do you fish, and has fishing been good off of the banks recently?  I drove quite a bit on Friday, and only saw a handful of fisherman fishing from the shores. Thanks, KenP

Response:

It’s really frustrating to fish stripers in the river with a boat, much less off the shore. You’d be better of in the Amercian river. There are more "hole" where the fish stop and concentrate. Some of the fly fishing shop in Sac are good resources to tell you where to go, as fly fishing for stripers is becomming really popular.

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Question:

The "mandrel" is made of steel with multiple tapers on it.  The tapers on the mandrels are used to arrive at the ID.  The ID in combination with the graphite thickness drives the OD which, in combination with the graphite modulus, give the black its action.  Many amndrels today have upwards of six taper changes on the tip. Dwight Talon – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can anyone give me a education on the making of a graphite fly rod.  I understand that graphite fibers are wound around a mandrel.  What is this mandrel ( inner core of a rod? ) made of?   Thanks for the info –

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In answer to your question, yes mandrels are tapered steel rods which do to some degree determine the charistics of the rod by determining the degree of taper.  After a particular mandrel is chosen,dependant on the type of rod, a piece of resin impregnated graphite cloth is cut according to a pattern ( either compound or progressive taper ) and wraped very tightly around the mandrel under extreme pressure to cause the resin to bond and hold the cloth together and then the rod and mandrel are suspended tip down in an oven where they are subjected to extreme heat and pressure. Then the rods are removed and seperated from the mandrels and sanded, painted, and /or clear coated.  

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can anyone give me a education on the making of a graphite fly rod.  I understand that graphite fibers are wound around a mandrel.  What is this mandrel ( inner core of a rod? ) made of?   Thanks for the info – Stainless steel, I guess. It’s not left in the rod blank (as implied by your wording above). Think of a mandrel as an internal mold (form). The graphite material is wrapped around the mandrel and then they are both put into an oven for a heat cured. The mandrel is then withdrawn from the blank and reused, over and over. Unless you want to become a manufacturer of rod blanks, knowledge of mandrel shape is of little importance to an average custom rod builder (rod wrapper), except providing one of many needed bits of knowledge about a blank’s expected action. I’d expect the mandrel’s shape would be a closely-held trade secret of the mfg. company. Don Burns

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Can anyone give me a education on the making of a graphite fly rod.  I understand that graphite fibers are wound around a mandrel.  What is this mandrel ( inner core of a rod? ) made of?  

Hi Mark, Graphite comes as a cloth which is layed out on a table and cut to a pattern.  This is simply done placing a pattern over the cloth and then cutting the graphite cloth with a box knife (razor).  How the pattern is shaped will determine the wall thickness of the blank.  Graphite cut into a pattern is called a flag. The flags are then taken to the rolling machine.   Inside the rolling machine has been placed the correct mandrel for the section of the rod being manufactured.  Seperate mandrels are used for each piece of the rod.  The mandrel is a tapered steel rod that determines the inside diameter of the blank and the shape of the blank.  The combination of the cut of the pattern of the flag and the tapered shape of the mandrel determines the "taper" of the blank. A small heat iron is rubbed along the edge of the flag which makes it tacky and the tacky edge is slipped into the machine next to the mandrel. The tacky part of the flag adheres to the mandrel and th machine then rolls the graphite flag around the mandrel.  Heat shrink tape is then wrapped around the outside of the graphite and the mandrel with the shrink wrapped is removed from the rolling machine and hung up inside a walk-in oven.  The blank is then baked.  The heat activates the epoxies and resins in the graphite flag and the heat shrink tape compresses squeezing the graphite onto the  mandrel. When the gaphite is done cooking, it is removed from the oven and the blank is pulled off of the mandrel and the mandrel is used to make another rod.  The heat shrink tape leaves the ridges in the graphite that you see in many rods and the blank is finished at this point.  If the rod uses an external or internal ferrule (as opposed to the integral ferrule which is actually designed into the mandrel), it is attached at this point. Another step may ensue for cosmetic reasons and that is sanding off the ridges (scars from the heat shrink tape) and then coating the blank with an epoxy or varnish.  This last step is what allows rods to be made in different colors and have a smooth shiny surface instead of the dark gray color of the graphite itself. After the blank is constructed the rod is sypically splined and finished with guides, handle, reel seat, etc. This process commonly called rolling a rod.                          Hope this helps,                                Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

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Can anyone give me a education on the making of a graphite fly rod.  I understand that graphite fibers are wound around a mandrel.  What is this mandrel ( inner core of a rod? ) made of?   Thanks for the info –

Stainless steel, I guess. It’s not left in the rod blank (as implied by your wording above). Think of a mandrel as an internal mold (form). The graphite material is wrapped around the mandrel and then they are both put into an oven for a heat cured. The mandrel is then withdrawn from the blank and reused, over and over. Unless you want to become a manufacturer of rod blanks, knowledge of mandrel shape is of little importance to an average custom rod builder (rod wrapper), except providing one of many needed bits of knowledge about a blank’s expected action. I’d expect the mandrel’s shape would be a closely-held trade secret of the mfg. company. Don Burns

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can anyone give me a education on the making of a graphite fly rod.  I understand that graphite fibers are wound around a mandrel.  What is this mandrel ( inner core of a rod? ) made of? Thanks for the info – Stainless steel, I guess. It’s not left in the rod blank (as implied by your wording above). Think of a mandrel as an internal mold (form).

Barbless Mandrel ?   ;0 TimW

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can anyone give me a education on the making of a graphite fly rod.  I understand that graphite fibers are wound around a mandrel.  What is this mandrel ( inner core of a rod? ) made of?   Thanks for the info –

Response:

Can anyone give me a education on the making of a graphite fly rod.  I understand that graphite fibers are wound around a mandrel.  What is this mandrel ( inner core of a rod? ) made of?

Stainless Steel Phil Koenig Manhattan Custom Tackle Ltd. http://fishdoc.com./ "I’m the boss, so WHATEVER I say is OK"

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Can anyone give me a education on the making of a graphite fly rod.  I understand that graphite fibers are wound around a mandrel.  What is this mandrel ( inner core of a rod? ) made of?   Thanks for the info –

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Question:

I will be in the Fort Meyers and Naples area in June. Any suggestions as to guides that have experience and interest in fly fishing. Also any areas that I could try without a guide and suggested flies. Thanks-Alex

Response:

Doug Swisher and Capt Bob Marvin run a saltwater flyfishing school and also guide out of Naples.  I’ve fished with both and they are super to spend a day on the water with. Doug goes back to trout in the summer months, but Capt Bob fishes there all year. call Naples information for Doug Swisher or bob Marvin.   you’ll have a ball. Reed

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Question:

I’m doing an informal survey on anglers favourite magazines and authors, (or TV hosts, etc..). Email me with yours! Thanks. Paradigm Management Group

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American Angler is my favorite.  I gave up on the others, since they seemed to have become more travelogue, than anything else.  I don’t have a favorite TV show, but if I had to make a choice, I’d say "Fishing the West."

Response:

In my opinion they all seem to rehash much of the same old stuff and of course they survive on advertising.  It just that sometimes they seem to be almost in an alliance with their advertisers to the point that it seems that thats what its all about.  Their is one new magazine out of Livingston MT, "The Angler Journal" that seems to be a little less commercial.  They at least have stated the quality is their goal.

Response:

Do you get _Fly Rod & Reel_?  See, the reason I ask is that in the current issue one feature article is far from the same old thing…Flyfishing for largemouths in New York’s central park.  I doubt highly that this was an ad gig.         If you think that all the magazines rehash the same old stuff, try to think of something that’s truely original in this sport that warrants a feature article.  I for one will not sit still through six pages on the advent of a fly hackled about the hook bend, yet this seems to be the most original thing to come down the pike.  What’s left then are the destination pieces, but it’s been shown that exotic trips are a turn-off to readers.  So what’s left to hold the readers’ interest?  This recent article is an intelligent step forward.  If you have a good idea for a story, send it to the editors or better yet, write it.  They’re always looking for good stuff. Jamus

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Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I am suppose to go camping for the whole month of August on the north shore of the St-Laurent River.  I will be going in the surrounddings of the Lac St-Jean. Parc Mingan, Gaspesie, P.E.I., New brunswick, Nova Scotia and finally Maine. I would be please if there was somebody out there that could advice me on  more specific place to go and flies and method of fishing to use Richard  457-3067 montreal

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I am suppose to go camping for the whole month of August on the north shore of the St-Laurent River.  I will be going in the surrounddings of the Lac St-Jean. Parc Mingan, Gaspesie, P.E.I., New brunswick, Nova Scotia and finally Maine. I would be please if there was somebody out there that could advice me on  more specific place to go and flies and method of fishing to use Richard  457-3067 montreal

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Richard, You didn’t say what part of Maine you need info for.  A couple suggestions if your plans are flexible. The West Branch of the Penobscot river west of Millinocket is the premier landlocked salmon river in New England.  The area below Ripogenus dam down past the entrance to Baxter State PArk is considered best.  Check the locals for specific flies/hatches, but bring along some hornbergs, green ghost, gray ghost, elk hair caddis and royal wullfs as a starter. The area around Moosehead lake and Rangely lake is also a good spot.  Try the Roach river, Cupsptic River, Moose river, Little Kennebago, Magalloway River with the same flies mentioned above, in addition to an current hatch-matching selections.  The Maine Guide fly shop in Greenville near Moosehead lake is a good place to check for current information. You could also call LL Bean in Freeport Maine and ask for the fishing department.   They keep track of what is going on all over the state. Tight Lines, Gerry Crow

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Question:

The last time I used a dropper fly I had horrible problems with the line tangling up. I had attached the fly to the tag end of a surgeons knot Has anyone got any suggestions for keeping the whole thing untangled when fishing? I guess you could attach the dropper onto the first fly, but I often wonder about hooking success? Any thots would be appreciated. Jeff Dueck Calgary Alberta Canada

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The last time I used a dropper fly I had horrible problems with the line tangling up. I had attached the fly to the tag end of a surgeons knot Has anyone got any suggestions for keeping the whole thing untangled when fishing? I guess you could attach the dropper onto the first fly, but I often wonder about hooking success? Any thots would be appreciated.

I use a two-fly rig often.  I tie the upper fly onto the end of the taper then with this attached I tie my tippet in with a barrel knot, leaving the fly hanging about 2" from the knot.  As long as the lower fly is heavier and the upper isn’t hanging down too far I don’t have problems. When I tangle it is the fault of my casting.  When I overpower the rod it forms a "tailing loop" where the flies tangle in the line.  With a two fly rig it works best to cast a gentle slow cast with a nice wide loop. If it’s windy forget the upper fly. Mark Vinsel Visit my gallery: http://www.lanminds.com/local/vinnie/gallery.HTML

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The last time I used a dropper fly I had horrible problems with the line tangling up. I had attached the fly to the tag end of a surgeons knot Has anyone got any suggestions for keeping the whole thing untangled when fishing? I guess you could attach the dropper onto the first fly, but I often wonder about hooking success? Any thots would be appreciated. Jeff Dueck Calgary Alberta Canada

I have good luck by tying a loop knot into my tippet and then tying a pefection loop into my dropper leader, and looping them together.  Keep the dropper leader short, less than 6 inches, and the stiffness of the loop junction will keep you good. ATB

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The last time I used a dropper fly I had horrible problems with the line tangling up. I had attached the fly to the tag end of a surgeons knot Has anyone got any suggestions for keeping the whole thing untangled when fishing?

I tie the tippet for the dropper to the curve in the hook of the first fly (usually a dry, with the dropper a nymph) using an improved clinch knot. I’ve never lost a dropper even tho’ my hooks are debarbed, and I don’t think that the dropper has interfered with hookups on the upper fly. The big advantage is that this rig casts much like a single fly and avoids the twists and snarls that I formerly encountered tying the dropper off from the leader above the other fly.

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The last time I used a dropper fly I had horrible problems with the line tangling up. I had attached the fly to the tag end of a surgeons knot Has anyone got any suggestions for keeping the whole thing untangled when fishing?

Tom Johnson at Johnson’s Pere Marquette Lodge taught me to tie a second peice of tippet to the eye of the first fly, and attach the second fly to the second tippet.  So far it has worked great for me. . Lenny Bloksberg . .

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The last time I used a dropper fly I had horrible problems with the line tangling up. I had attached the fly to the tag end of a surgeons knot Has anyone got any suggestions for keeping the whole thing untangled when fishing?

        Another method of avoiding tangles is to run your tippet through the eye of the dropper fly, tie on another length of tippet with a double surgeon’s knot and then tie on your tail fly. The dropper fly runs free but snugs up against the surgeon’s knot during casting. The only problem is that the dropper fly can’t be larger than a #14 or it slides over the knot but I rarely use flies that large so it’s no problem.

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: The last time I used a dropper fly I had horrible problems with the line : tangling up. I had attached the fly to the tag end of a surgeons knot : Has anyone got any suggestions for keeping the whole thing untangled : when fishing? : :       Another method of avoiding tangles is to run your tippet through : the eye of the dropper fly, tie on another length of tippet with a double : surgeon’s knot and then tie on your tail fly. The dropper fly runs free : but snugs up against the surgeon’s knot during casting. The only problem : is that the dropper fly can’t be larger than a #14 or it slides over the : knot but I rarely use flies that large so it’s no problem. For a classical dropper, make sure that you are using a reasonably stiff piece of mono to make the leader.  I find that if the mono can support the weight of the fly horizontally over the 5-10 cm length of the dropper, then it is stiff enough not to tangle when casting.  However, I too prefer the methods previously mentioned.

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Tom Johnson at Johnson’s Pere Marquette Lodge taught me to tie a second peice of tippet to the eye of the first fly, and attach the second fly to the second tippet.  So far it has worked great for me.

This works only if the eye is complete – and many hooks have either a small gap in the eye, or where the wire was cut may have sharp corners exposed to the inside of the eye. Neither of these may affect the mainline, but a trailing dropper might decide to go it alone with some vigorous casting… <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.    Alpha Server Engineering  < <           "Read this and nobody gets hurt"           < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

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The real key is learning to cast.  Don’t bother with any kind of dropper set up if you can’t exercise a modicum of loop control in all wind/weather conditions.                                 Mike in PDX                "When the trout are lost, smash the state."                                            Tom McGuane

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You can attach an additional wet fly to your leader by leaving the heavier tag end of the barrel knot closest to your tippet a little long.   If the barrel knot is tied properly, the heavier tage end should stick out at 180 degrees from the tippet tag end.  Trim off the tag end of the tippet and just tie the additional fly to the remaining line.  The dropper line should be short (I usually use 6-8 inches) and no finer than 3X, or else it will tangle.  You can use this to attach as many flies as you want further up the leader too. Jim Davis Philadelphia, PA Temple University

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