Question:
In today’s Oregonian there was an article about a guy fishing the Rogue River in southern Oregon, landing a 71 lb – 8 oz. Chinook on a fly this past Monday. The report said he was using 7 lb. tippet, which would make this fish a world record for that line class. When confirmed, it would also be the largest Chinook caught on a fly. The fly used was described as having; "chartreuse hackle and some rainbow mylar on a #8 hook. The fly was tied by the angler. The report didn’t say how long it took him to land it, but I would imagine it took awhile!
Response:
In today’s Oregonian there was an article about a guy fishing the Rogue River in southern Oregon, landing a 71 lb – 8 oz. Chinook on a fly this past Monday. The report said he was using 7 lb. tippet, which would make this fish a world record for that line class. When confirmed, it would also be the largest Chinook caught on a fly. The fly used was described as having; "chartreuse hackle and some rainbow mylar on a #8 hook. The fly was tied by the angler. The report didn’t say how long it took him to land it, but I would imagine it took awhile!
Bill Kiene sent me a photo of that fish. I’ll post it on ABPF in a few minutes.
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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In today’s Oregonian there was an article about a guy fishing the Rogue River in southern Oregon, landing a 71 lb – 8 oz. Chinook on a fly this past Monday. The report said he was using 7 lb. tippet, which would make this fish a world record for that line class. When confirmed, it would also be the largest Chinook caught on a fly. The fly used was described as having; "chartreuse hackle and some rainbow mylar on a #8 hook. The fly was tied by the angler. The report didn’t say how long it took him to land it, but I would imagine it took awhile! Bill Kiene sent me a photo of that fish. I’ll post it on ABPF in a few minutes.
Whoa. /daytripper (That there’s a whole lot of big damned salmon, sho nuff.)
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Steve, You need to come to Sacto soon (before it gets to darn cold) so I can take you boating down in the Delta for stripers. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In today’s Oregonian there was an article about a guy fishing the Rogue River in southern Oregon, landing a 71 lb – 8 oz. Chinook on a fly this past Monday. The report said he was using 7 lb. tippet, which would make this fish a world record for that line class. When confirmed, it would also be the largest Chinook caught on a fly. The fly used was described as having; "chartreuse hackle and some rainbow mylar on a #8 hook. The fly was tied by the angler. The report didn’t say how long it took him to land it, but I would imagine it took awhile! Bill Kiene sent me a photo of that fish. I’ll post it on ABPF in a few minutes.
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A man could feed a family of four for a week with that big sumbitch. Handyman Mike Standing in a river waving a stick
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Question:
Why the bimini twist?
…cuz the foxtrot looks dorky? -wf
Response:
If you aren’t worried about records, forget the bimini and fish a good tapered leader. The bimini is a way to fish for big fish, like tarpon with a light tippit. If you are willing to fish a little heavier leader forget the bimini.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve only fished in the salt a few times but finally broke down and bought Lefty Kreh’s book on the subject. My question is what use is the Bimini Twist? I understand that if you are trying for a world record then you need great 100 per cent strength knots to tie in your 1 foot of "tippet class". I’m not really interested in that and I suspect the vast majority of salt water fisherman arent either…why not just tie your bite tippet on with a surgeons knot or something? Sorry for this off topic question……now back to the Gink Wars. jorge — Posted via Talkway – http://www.talkway.com Exchange ideas on practically anything ™.
Response:
Good choice in books … My S/W Flyfishing Bible, I call it. As I understand it ( and have somewhat tested) the Bimini is the strongest knot to use "if tied properly! I personally am a strong proponent of the "spider hitch" It is easier, smaller, and faster to tie, and I now can tee it in a few seconds…even in the dark. I almost always use it to loop on tippet to leader on all sizes I use (5x to 20#) even in freshwater. It supposedly is just as strong as a bimini except for shock load. Since most of the time the rod / line absorbs the shocks it works great for me. I have even done some testing and it usually takes a better bimini than I can tie to exceed the breaking strength of one of my spiders. I have also performed this test with a couple of professional S/W guides biminis (in up to 20# test) and usually their bimini fails first. (or of course the unknotted line in the middle. If you want to give it a try I think the knot is listed in Lefty’s book. Usually they show this knot being tied using a finger or thumb as the "guide" to wrap around. I have had better luck using a small object like a toothpick or hemostats. After some practice it can easily be tied with no tools by looping the line "between" the thumb and forefinger with no tools. Like the bimini this knot’s real purpose it to double the line and use the loop lines to tie another knot to something… or to make a doubled loop. I use a lot of loops and normally just make the spiders loop, combine the lines, and tie a surgeons loop close to the spider. This can result in a small loop of double line. (or as large as you need) For your shock leader or bite tippet this give you a doubled line of class tippet to tie the knot with. The knot tied with the doubled line is almost always stronger than the spider, bimini, or the single class tippet. I find the issue of attaching wire, 40# or 100# mono to any doubled 12-16 lb connection more prone to failure and problems than the class termination knot. So far I Never lost a fish due to a spider breaking. (Although I have lost lots of fish due to the line breaking between the knots (where it’s supposed to) just poor dumb bad luck…. I have lost a number of fish due to bimini knot failure. If you go with the bimini in the 20# & under size I highly recommend using pliobond or something on the final hitches. I have seen way too many bimini’s start coming apart while fishing if they are not glued. I even saw this once on a friends backing to flyline connection where he had used a bimini. The really sad part is that a number of us were taught to tie our best binini’s by Stu Apte … So I guess we can’t blame the teacher! I recall reading somewhere that it only took a few years to "perfect" a bimini and ony a couple more to perfect it on a rocking boat out in the middle of the ocean. Maybe they were right. The real test is to always break a lot of line and knots until you are confident they as strong as the line. (or at least as strong a YOU can tie them) I make leaders from clear Ande and use Ande tournament class line. This stuff comes in 1/4 lb spools, so I have a lot to waste. I just tie up the knots on each end to end up about 3′ outside the loops and then use a couple of chunks of cut off broom handles to hold on to and break the knots. I stand on the stick with the loop over it on one end and pull with my hands at the other until it breaks. Just make sure you have safety glasses on and don’t touch the line itself. 16# and up is quite violent when it breaks and can give you a nasty cut if it gets near you hands. (ah the voice of experience) This isn’t real scientific but really help you determine the best knots that you can tie. Good luck in the salt!
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve only fished in the salt a few times but finally broke down and bought Lefty Kreh’s book on the subject. My question is what use is the Bimini Twist? I understand that if you are trying for a world record then you need great 100 per cent strength knots to tie in your 1 foot of "tippet class". I’m not really interested in that and I suspect the vast majority of salt water fisherman arent either…why not just tie your bite tippet on with a surgeons knot or something? Sorry for this off topic question……now back to the Gink Wars. jorge — Posted via Talkway – http://www.talkway.com Exchange ideas on practically anything ™.
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Thanks so much for the advice over the bimini twist. (George and RJ). I will indeed practice a bit with the spider hitch and see if I can master that. I was fishing in the backcountry on my last trip to Latin America for snook and baby tarpon…..the fish were completely non leader tippet shy so I thought well in order not to lose’em in the mangroves and make sure I can horse’em, I’ll tie like 20 pound test on for a tippet. I was having a ball catching 10 pound baby tarpon and small snook (and replacing the tippet every 3 or 4 fish cause the tarpon were sawing it up pretty good). However I hooked a big snook….the boat driver said "Its a big snook, Jorge….don’t let him get in the mangrove"…..the rod was an 8 weight Scott…..it was bent double and then broke a foot above the handle. What did I do wrong there? Is an 8 weight too lite for the backcountry? Should I only use 10 pound tippets and depend on breaking off rather than stressing the rod too much? It was a big snook….the boat was being pulled sideways into the mangrove and I’ll did was just hold on (in panic!). I appreciate the help you guys are giving to this beginner in the salt. Jorge — Posted via Talkway – http://www.talkway.com Exchange ideas on practically anything ™.
Response:
Most likely you dinged the rod at some time and it was weak there. If it is a top of the line rod you can probably get it replaced. You can also have a problem if you grab the rod above the handle cause you can change where the rod is stressed.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks so much for the advice over the bimini twist. (George and RJ). I will indeed practice a bit with the spider hitch and see if I can master that. I was fishing in the backcountry on my last trip to Latin America for snook and baby tarpon…..the fish were completely non leader tippet shy so I thought well in order not to lose’em in the mangroves and make sure I can horse’em, I’ll tie like 20 pound test on for a tippet. I was having a ball catching 10 pound baby tarpon and small snook (and replacing the tippet every 3 or 4 fish cause the tarpon were sawing it up pretty good). However I hooked a big snook….the boat driver said "Its a big snook, Jorge….don’t let him get in the mangrove"…..the rod was an 8 weight Scott…..it was bent double and then broke a foot above the handle. What did I do wrong there? Is an 8 weight too lite for the backcountry? Should I only use 10 pound tippets and depend on breaking off rather than stressing the rod too much? It was a big snook….the boat was being pulled sideways into the mangrove and I’ll did was just hold on (in panic!). I appreciate the help you guys are giving to this beginner in the salt. Jorge — Posted via Talkway – http://www.talkway.com Exchange ideas on practically anything ™.
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Sounds like you were using the same guide I used…. Except when he tried to tell my buddy repeatedly in excited broken English (the fish) GO IN MANGROVE! GO IN MANGROVE! My buddy stepped out of the boat and sank to his shoulders in the silt….. But that’s a whole different story. We were in Cancun earlier this year and used 8 & 9 wt rods on the baby (4′ ) tarpon we found there & didn’t have any rod strength problems. I was using Sage Rplx’s and my buddy was using the Orvis and Fenwick HMG’s… The tarpon action was hot and we ended up using straight 40# leaders when the all the premade tippets ran out….and still managed to break off a fair number of fish! (the folks at Sage are probably cringing if they read this! Sorry to have to tell you but your story sounds like operator error. Strong saltwater fish need to fought with the butt of the rod not the tip. You are risking it if you bend the rod beyond 90
Question:
I just stumbled on to a great new stream a half hour from my cabin. I’m not telling where it is, of course. (If anyone wants to visit the Stanley area I’ll show it to you.) This is a nearly perfect mountain meadow creek — nice slow dry-fly water — which is a change of pace from the fast-flowing freestone rivers that dominate the landscape here. It has a lot of wildlife, too, which I like. As I walked to the creek there were three Swainson’s hawks in the air and I spooked a pair of Sandhill Cranes and a deer. The walking is treacherous because of numerous beaver projects. There wasn’t another soul in sight. The problem is that I didn’t catch any fish. I saw plenty, though. They came in two sizes: tiny and humongous. It was a problem keeping the tiny ones from spoiling the float to the humongous ones. There were many trout holding near the bank that must have been four pounds and up, easy. They rejected every offering. I crawled on my belly to the bank to avoid spooking them (which is ridiculously easy to do on this creek — spooking, I mean), and basically went through my fly boxes. I’d like to think they just weren’t feeding because a big thunderstorm was moving in. I just watched them for awhile and they didn’t look like they were feeding. This creek is now my project. It’s difficult sight fishing for large prey. BTW, on the drive home, over the pass, I saw that it had snowed. Snow on August 4! — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)
Response:
I just stumbled on to a great new stream a half hour from my cabin. I’m not telling where it is, of course. (If anyone wants to visit the Stanley area I’ll show it to you.) This is a nearly perfect mountain meadow creek — nice slow dry-fly water — which is a change of pace from the fast-flowing freestone rivers that dominate the landscape here. It has a lot of wildlife, too, which I like. As I walked to the creek there were three Swainson’s hawks in the air and I spooked a pair of Sandhill Cranes and a deer. The walking is treacherous because of numerous beaver projects. There wasn’t another soul in sight. The problem is that I didn’t catch any fish. I saw plenty, though.
Today I figured out how to fish this creek. It was great! It fished real well with #8 hoppers during the heat of the afternoon. I walk along the high banks looking for big fish. They seem to hang out together in groups of about 2 to 4 or so, but you also see single fish. If there are small fish around there are never any big fish. There must be a lot of cannibalism going on. (I’ll have to try some streamers next time.) Once I see them they’ve almost certainly seen me and have spooked, no matter how careful I am. In fact, sometimes I deliberately spook them because they’re holding in an undercut bank where I can’t see them. Then I have to wait five minutes or so, well back from the bank. After they’ve rested I creep to the bank about 40 feet upstream from them and present the fly downstream. These fish don’t seem to be all that selective about flies and this place is very lightly fished (I’ve never seen anyone there), but the water is perfectly clear and smooth and 7x tippets are called for. It seemed to be best when there was a bit of a breeze to make ripples on the surface. I got my three best cutthroats of the season today. The largest was maybe 20". Well, OK, 19". Also saw a Peregrine Falcon real close. — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)
Response:
I just stumbled on to a great new stream a half hour from my cabin.
(terrific little narrative snipped) I got my three best cutthroats of the season today. The largest was maybe 20". Well, OK, 19". Also saw a Peregrine Falcon real close. — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)
god, wulffie, what a world you live in. congratulations. wayno
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Question:
Has anyone used Rain-X as floatant? How does it work? Shinji
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I bet it would work great at first. But if you’ll read the label, it has some really strong petroleum distillates. I woud think it would damge fly line and leave a horrendous taste on flies. As for myself, a rueben sandwich with hot peppers and a budweiser pretty much makes me unsinkable. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Has anyone used Rain-X as floatant? How does it work? Shinji
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it has some really strong petroleum distillates. I woud think it would
damge flyline and leave a horrendous taste on flies. It’s been more than 50 years since my last chemistry class, but aren’t "distillates" volatile? Wouldn’t they evaporate? vince norris
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Rain-X ought to work. It’s basically wax in some solvents (distillates) and when they evaporate, it leaves an easy to polish windshield. Not knowing what the distillates are, it is unclear what effect they might have on the fly head cement, artificial and natural colors, waxed thread, etc. "Some mornings I wonder if it was worth it to gnaw through the leather straps." – E. Philips
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Rain-X ought to work. It’s basically wax in some solvents (distillates) and when they evaporate, it leaves an easy to polish windshield.
my god, george gherke, are you suffering from laryngitits, or under arrest in a foreign land, or asleep, or have you simply expired? a. wayne harrison
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Rain-X ought to work. It’s basically wax in some solvents (distillates) and when they evaporate, it leaves an easy to polish windshield. my god, george gherke, are you suffering from laryngitits, or under arrest in a foreign land, or asleep, or have you simply expired? a. wayne harrison
The problem with products containing distilates (in fact, just about anything with an organic solvent) is that the solvents will interact with the plasticizers in the fly line. Most lines today are built with a plastic coating over a braided core. If you get solvent onto the coating, a wide variety of things can happen, most of them bad. Typical results can include (but are not limited to) cracking, softening, peeling, loss of the outer skin, etc. Probably the worst one is the softening. I have seen fly lines that were contaminated with gasoline or diesel. These lines were as limp as overcooked spaghetti, and cast about as well. Other things you need to be really careful about are- sunscreen, and insect repellant. Be very careful about what you put on your $50 fly line, it could ruin your day. There are a variety of "resonably priced" line cleaners and dressings out there. Personally I like Glide, with the caveat that I have to be able to let it dry for long enough before I buff it off(1-2 hrs)-If you do not let it dry, or do not remove excess, it is like glue. Otherwise, I will use SA line cleaner and dressing in a pinch.
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Rain-X ought to work. It’s basically wax in some solvents (distillates) and when they evaporate, it leaves an easy to polish windshield. my god, george gherke, are you suffering from laryngitits, or under arrest in a foreign land, or asleep, or have you simply expired? a. wayne harrison The problem with products containing distilates (in fact, just about anything with an organic solvent) is that the solvents will interact with the plasticizers in the fly line. Most lines today are built with a plastic coating over a braided core.
The Advantage to using rain x is it works best when dry. You pre treat all flies the night before. The next day you are ready and will not get any thing on the flyline but the water you are fishing in. Jim
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <HTML <BR <BR <BR Rain-X ought to work. It’s basically wax in some solvents (distillates) and <BR when they evaporate, it leaves an easy to polish windshield. <BR <BR my god, george gherke, are you suffering from laryngitits, or <BR under arrest in a foreign land, or asleep, or have you simply expired? <BR <BR a. wayne harrison</BLOCKQUOTE _______ No Wayne honey, I’m not asleep. I just know you know better.What you say about solvents destroying fly lines is excellent and accurate. <Pgeorge gehrke <BRmr. gink <P_______ Now you force me to review the copy below that followed. <
i knew you wouldn’t dissapoint me, george… a. wayne harrison
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The last distallate I tasted was in a little ’shne from the hills. Didn’t like the taste….. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – it has some really strong petroleum distillates. I woud think it would damge fly line and leave a horrendous taste on flies. It’s been more than 50 years since my last chemistry class, but aren’t "distillates" volatile? Wouldn’t they evaporate? Home heating oil is a distillate. Try pouring some of that around your basement floor and see how fast it evaporates…
Response:
it has some really strong petroleum distillates. I woud think it would damge fly line and leave a horrendous taste on flies. It’s been more than 50 years since my last chemistry class, but aren’t "distillates" volatile? Wouldn’t they evaporate?
Home heating oil is a distillate. Try pouring some of that around your basement floor and see how fast it evaporates…
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Question:
After reading this group for a couple of years it has become clear that a lot of people either have much more disposable income than I do, or that my priorities are skewed somehow. At any rate, I’m looking for a new rod to replace the old glass Fenwick I’ve fished for 15+ years, but I don’t want to shell out $300. Or even $200. Less than $100 would be great–
Well, Derek, there is both bad news and good news for you. Yes, there was a time long ago when it was possible to fool a trout and enjoy a "quality angling experience" (QAE to those of us in the industry) with a $100 rod, but those days are long behind us. As we approach the turn of a century, studies show that there are very few trout in today’s streams that will engage anglers who use inexpensive rods. Sure, some anglers will tell you that when it comes to rod blanks, "plastic is plastic", but someone who really knows the industry will answer "yes, but some plastics are more plastic than others". Having arrived at this dilemma, your choice becomes clear. The good news for you, Derek, is that you are unlikely to find many rods for less than $200, making it much easier for you to avoid an inexpensive flyrod by simply paying more money for an expensive one. Moreover, a knowledgeable rod merchant will surely do all he can to guide you toward the most expensive alternative to an inexpensive purchase. Spinolio
Response:
Want I want is simple, an 8.5′ 5wt rod that will cast well enough to keep me happy and won’t fall apart. The St. Croix Pro Graphite rods have gotten very good reviews, I often hear them being called the best value in fly fishing. I think cost $75 or so. St. Croix Imperials and Redington Red Start rods are also supposed to be nice, they cost between $100 and $150.
Several people have made this recommendation. The problem is, there are no fly shops anywhere near me. The only place in town with fly gear sells G. Loomis rods (at list) to yuppies, and little else (it’s just a sporting goods store). Anyone know of a good mail order source? Some place with a friendly return policy? Test cast them all and let me know how it comes out!
Can anyone recommend a fly shop (or a good sporting retailer) in Indianapolis or Louisville? I usually wait until I’m back in Oregon/Idaho visiting family to buy anything of significance (Kaufman’s Streamborne in PDX, and Intermountain Arms in Boise). — Derek R. Larson Indiana University Department of History "Eastward I go by force, but Westward I go free!" -H. D. Thoreau
Response:
Not quite….the Legend Series St Croix is 42 million mods, while the less expensive Imperial is 32 million modulus, and is a somewhat slower action rod.
I like a slower action, and fortunately (for me) the slower rods can be less expensive (unless you get into split cane, but that’s a whole other topic). When you’re rod shopping, one method that works pretty well is to not only test cast the rod (or rods) you’re thinking of buying, but to also test a more expensive rod, so you have something for comparison. You may even find that the less expensive rod is more to your liking. Find the rod that is right for you, and to hell with what you’re "supposed" to prefer. The emperor has no clothes. CQ
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Rick Fletcher wrote to: [snip] try and build from a blank. It’s worth the time and money saved, just like tying.
Interesting idea. How much would it cost to build my own $300 rod? How much is saved? bird
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Several people have made this recommendation. The problem is, there are no fly shops anywhere near me. The only place in town with fly gear sells G. Loomis rods (at list) to yuppies, and little else (it’s just a sporting goods store). Anyone know of a good mail order source? Some place with a friendly return policy?
Ask the ownner if you can look at his gear catalogues – he is visited weekly by fishing gear salesmen who would gladly sell him anything he wanted to buy. He probably keeps the catalogues in the back office. Ask when the local salesman (or saleswoman) is coming through, and you can ask them about their lines. If the guy won’t help you do this, boycott the store.
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Its my understanding that all of the St. Croix series use the same graphite. Thus no difference in performance.
I looked over both the Pro and the Imperial. About the only differences that I noticed were the blank and the performance. Both were good rods, but IMHO, the Imperial was much better, and only a little bit more expensive. CQ
Response:
Yes, there was a time long ago when it was possible to fool a trout and enjoy a "quality angling experience" (QAE to those of us in the industry) with a $100 rod, but those days are long behind us. As we approach the turn of a century, studies show that there are very few trout in today’s streams that will engage anglers who use inexpensive rods.
Mr. Spinolio: I really must disagree with your comments about the price of a rod significantly impacting on an anglers success rate. With respect to the U.S.A., I’ll bow to your experience; but in my area of Canada, I don’t agree that this correlation applies. Granted, we don’t get the pressure on our streams that Montana residents do; but I happily take large browns on the most heavily fished river in Ontario with both my Sage graphite, an old Algonquin "feralite" and a cane rod left to me by my father that’s older than Moses. IMHO an angler adapts his skills to his tackle. It’s no doubt easier to fish a $5000.00 custom made bamboo than an old glass rod…but if you can’t afford the custom, buy the best you can afford and go fishing. I’ve never known a fish to check the price tag on a rod before inhaling a nymph. Here’s a suggestion for Derek that may allow him to buy good tackle for a fraction of the cost of new. Go to your local fly fishing school, (there’s probably one near by…they’re popping up like mushrooms after a spring rain) and ask them if they have any rods for sale. You’ll be amazed. Especially if you offer cash and don’t ask for a receipt. Then you’ll have quality, cheaply, and you can worry about your backcast as opposed to the cost of your rod. Jim Ward Twin Willow Farm Home of good horses, fine whiskey and great wild trout.
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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Want I want is simple, an 8.5′ 5wt rod that will cast well enough to keep me happy and won’t fall apart. The St. Croix Pro Graphite rods have gotten very good reviews, I often hear them being called the best value in fly fishing. I think cost $75 or so. St. Croix Imperials and Redington Red Start rods are also supposed to be nice, they cost between $100 and $150. Several people have made this recommendation. The problem is, there are no fly shops anywhere near me. The only place in town with fly gear sells G. Loomis rods (at list) to yuppies, and little else (it’s just a sporting goods store). Anyone know of a good mail order source? Some place with a friendly return policy? Test cast them all and let me know how it comes out! Can anyone recommend a fly shop (or a good sporting retailer) in Indianapolis or Louisville? I usually wait until I’m back in Oregon/Idaho visiting family to buy anything of significance (Kaufman’s Streamborne in PDX, and Intermountain Arms in Boise). — Derek R. Larson Indiana University Department of History "Eastward I go by force, but Westward I go free!" -H. D. Thoreau
There is a recent Orvis shop up nin the Keystone area; nice folks.
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – …I’m looking for a new rod to replace the old glass Fenwick I’ve fished for 15+ years, but I don’t want to shell out $300. Or even $200. Less than $100 would be great… Check out the St. Croix Imperial graphite. They list for $120, which includes a rod case, and lifetime guarantee. I just bought one (a 9′ 4/5wt); cast it and a Diamondback side by side, and thought the St. Croix was better. They also make a Pro series, that costs less, but for the performance, the Imperial is a better buy. CQ Its my understanding that all of the St. Croix series use the same graphite. Thus no difference in performance. But I agree, they are a great buy. Jim
Hi Jim, Not quite….the Legend Series St Croix is 42 million mods, while the less expensive Imperial is 32 million modulus, and is a somewhat slower action rod. I own their 4 piece 5/6 travel rod, and the little 7′ 3 wt, and believe St Croix is one of the best buys on the market. connection with the company, just a satisfied customer. Regards,
Response:
Derek, another suggestion: I just recently bought a 8.5, 5 wt rod from Orvis. It is part of a relatively new series of less-expensive rods, called the Clearwater series. Its a good rod, similar to their more expensive rods, and you can definitely mail order it from Orvis. Steve
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…I’m looking for a new rod to replace the old glass Fenwick I’ve fished for 15+ years, but I don’t want to shell out $300. Or even $200. Less than $100 would be great… Check out the St. Croix Imperial graphite. They list for $120, which includes a rod case, and lifetime guarantee. I just bought one (a 9′ 4/5wt); cast it and a Diamondback side by side, and thought the St. Croix was better. They also make a Pro series, that costs less, but for the performance, the Imperial is a better buy. CQ
Its my understanding that all of the St. Croix series use the same graphite. Thus no difference in performance. But I agree, they are a great buy. Jim
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: After reading this group for a couple of years it has become clear that a : lot of people either have much more disposable income than I do, or that : my priorities are skewed somehow. At any rate, I’m looking for a new rod [snip] Sheesh Derek, you’ve been around here long enough to have heard all this before. Are you just trying to bait a war? I suggest you try Lamiglass and Reddington. And I strongly recommend you try and build from a blank. It’s worth the time and money saved, just like tying. — Rick T. Rick Fletcher – http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry | That’s Idaho, not Iowa. | ad hominem University of Idaho | Upper Left Hand Corner. | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343 | No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem
Response:
…I’m looking for a new rod to replace the old glass Fenwick I’ve fished for 15+ years, but I don’t want to shell out $300. Or even $200. Less than $100 would be great… Check out the St. Croix Imperial graphite. They list for $120, which includes a rod case, and lifetime guarantee. I just bought one (a 9′ 4/5wt); cast it and a Diamondback side by side, and thought the St. Croix was better. They also make a Pro series, that costs less, but for the performance, the Imperial is a better buy. CQ
THIS IS GOOD news to hear, for me. — George Gehrke/President Gehrke’s World’s Best Fly Fishing Products Asotin, WA 99402 509-243-4100 FAX 4644
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Derek I own three Lamiglass rods that have served me well for quite a long time. Cabelas carried them as recently as last year for under $100 but I don’t see them is this year’s catalog. They may still have some if you call them. Some flyshops may have a few left as well. Also, you might consider building your own rod. You can control the parts of it that are most important to you but still keep the cost down. You don’t really need, IMHO, the expensive wrapping platforms etc. Dave
I allways thought the best inexpensive rod was the one you could afford to buy.
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After reading this group for a couple of years it has become clear that a lot of people either have much more disposable income than I do, or that my priorities are skewed somehow. At any rate, I’m looking for a new rod to replace the old glass Fenwick I’ve fished for 15+ years, -Derek
Hi Derek Most fly shops have rental equipment and often sell that equipment a the end of the season. Check with a few and see if you can’t get a bargain. — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html
Response:
Derek I own three Lamiglass rods that have served me well for quite a long time. Cabelas carried them as recently as last year for under $100 but I don’t see them is this year’s catalog. They may still have some if you call them. Some flyshops may have a few left as well. Also, you might consider building your own rod. You can control the parts of it that are most important to you but still keep the cost down. You don’t really need, IMHO, the expensive wrapping platforms etc. Dave
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Derek, I am in the same boat as you financially. The kids, house, dogs, make it tough to shell out $300 on a rod. I have a post on this board about the Cabela’s Fish Eagle Traditional rod, 8′6" 6wt for $96. We’ll see what the response is. There’s a brand out there called Hi-Tech (HT) that are supposed to be good rods at great prices, but I can’t find any retail outlets that stock them.
You can afford a dog!?!?!? You lucky so and so. Had to eat ours last year! This year we had to rent a used turkey for christmas! Bloody luxury. Mike
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Want I want is simple, an 8.5′ 5wt rod that will cast well enough to keep me happy and won’t fall apart.
The St. Croix Pro Graphite rods have gotten very good reviews, I often hear them being called the best value in fly fishing. I think cost $75 or so. St. Croix Imperials and Redington Red Start rods are also supposed to be nice, they cost between $100 and $150. Test cast them all and let me know how it comes out! Tight lines, Tom Chandler Tom Chandler "When in doubt, have two guys come through the door with guns." –Raymond Chandler
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…I’m looking for a new rod to replace the old glass Fenwick I’ve fished for 15+ years, but I don’t want to shell out $300. Or even $200. Less than $100 would be great…
Check out the St. Croix Imperial graphite. They list for $120, which includes a rod case, and lifetime guarantee. I just bought one (a 9′ 4/5wt); cast it and a Diamondback side by side, and thought the St. Croix was better. They also make a Pro series, that costs less, but for the performance, the Imperial is a better buy. CQ
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Hi Derek- Have you considered buying a used rod? There are several sites on the internet that have "classified" areas where people sell used stuff at much lower prices than new. The virtual flyshop has one such area, but there are others. I recently bought a used tying vise and sold my old one in this way. You may be able to pick up a $300 rod for $100. Check it out. Good luck! Steve Rosenblum
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Want I want is simple, an 8.5′ 5wt rod that will cast well enough to keep me happy and won’t fall apart……entry-level Orvis outfit (Clearwater 865) looks okay, but is there anything else to compare in the $100 price range? While home over the holidays I looked at some new rods "made" by an outfit called Northwest-X or somesuch in Lake Oswego, Oregon– they were at GI Joes, about $80 for a 5wt 8.5". Didn’t cast one though. Anyone familar with that line? Thanks for any tips– please post responses rather than email so all can comment. -Derek —
Greetings Derek: I just started flyfishing about a year ago, so take my advice with a grain of salt. I started out with a 2-piece 5wt, 8.5ft, that I got as a package deal from LL Bean. I more recently purchased a 4-piece, 4wt, 7.5ft travel rod from them as well. The 5wt ran me $200, reel and all; the 4wt, $110, reel, case and all. Bean also sells the rod and reel set they use in teaching their classes, for a reasonable price (in the $100-150 range). They may not be the greatest rods, given other people’s comments at this site, but you can get a medium or fast-ish action rod from them, that are all lifetime guaranteed. I have really enjoyed my two rods, and they certainly got me out and fishing with a minimum investment. Hope this helps you out. Dan Johnson – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Derek R. Larson Indiana University Department of History "Eastward I go by force, but Westward I go free!" -H. D. Thoreau
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Check out the Cabela’s catalog, their own are pretty good, as are the St Croix’s and Reddingtons, but in that 8′6" range don’t count out the inexpensive Pfluger (also in the catalog) Call them if you don’t have the current FF catalog 1/800-237-4444 I am not related in any way to them, but at the low end of the price spectrum, where I started, they have yet to disappoint me. All of their house brand equip and gear has served me well. jg
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Derek, I am in the same boat as you financially. The kids, house, dogs, make it tough to shell out $300 on a rod. I have a post on this board about the Cabela’s Fish Eagle Traditional rod, 8′6" 6wt for $96. We’ll see what the response is. There’s a brand out there called Hi-Tech (HT) that are supposed to be good rods at great prices, but I can’t find any retail outlets that stock them.
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Want I want is simple, an 8.5′ 5wt rod that will cast well enough to keep me happy and won’t fall apart.
Under $100, consider the Cortland GRF-1000. Under $200, consider the Sage Discovery (Model 580 DS). Doubtless there are other good choices too. Try to actually cast the rod before buying it, to ensure that you’ll be happy with its performance. Woods Hole, MA USA
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After reading this group for a couple of years it has become clear that a lot of people either have much more disposable income than I do, or that my priorities are skewed somehow. At any rate, I’m looking for a new rod to replace the old glass Fenwick I’ve fished for 15+ years, but I don’t want to shell out $300. Or even $200. Less than $100 would be great– I don’t get to fish nearly as much in Indiana as I did growing up in Oregon (all my steelhead gear, all my packable trout gear, etc. etc. is still out there collecting dust). Want I want is simple, an 8.5′ 5wt rod that will cast well enough to keep me happy and won’t fall apart. My wife has a Cabella’s rod (the Sweetwater?) that was given to her as a gift; it’s not great, but I often use it rather than the 8wt. Fenwick I brought out here with me. The stores around here either sell junk (Eagle Claw, Pflueger) or G. Loomis, so it may have to be mail order. The entry-level Orvis outfit (Clearwater 865) looks okay, but is there anything else to compare in the $100 price range? While home over the holidays I looked at some new rods "made" by an outfit called Northwest-X or somesuch in Lake Oswego, Oregon– they were at GI Joes, about $80 for a 5wt 8.5". Didn’t cast one though. Anyone familar with that line? Thanks for any tips– please post responses rather than email so all can comment. -Derek — Derek R. Larson Indiana University Department of History "Eastward I go by force, but Westward I go free!" -H. D. Thoreau
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