Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – snipped Actually it was the combination square that got ‘em. Guess it looked kinda ominous on the baggage checker screen. That plus the satchel clanked pretty good when I set it down on the belt. Hugh Well, yes. One of those does look a lot like a large caliber automatic assault machine pistol – with an adjustable range of 0 to 1200 yards – and you could easily be thrown out of school if you held it the wrong way in 9th grade shop class. — bill Theory don’t mean squat if it don’t work.

You mean today. When I went to high school, we were still in the shoot um up phase from WW2 and the Korean War. Hugh

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Change the brake fluid. Don in NH

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Curt: In the present world of airport paranoia, a bag full of metal things may present a real problem. You might be better off shipping a FedEx box of stuff to yourself at the RV seller’s address. Should be quite an adventure – good luck Frank Damp Anacortes, WA

Kinda reminds me of the time I was working on the house we bought in Allen Park Michigan. I needed a bunch of tools from home and packed them in a satchel, must have weighed 30 pounds. Got to the airport, tried to go through the metal detector (this was back in ‘78) and they said "no way". Had to run back and check the satchel in. Don’t know why they got concerned, there were just some wrenches, slip joint pliers, combination square, wood chisels, hacksaw, 24" aluminum level shortened to 18" and some sundry items <grin. Hugh

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Curt: In the present world of airport paranoia, a bag full of metal things may present a real problem. You might be better off shipping a FedEx box of stuff to yourself at the RV seller’s address. Should be quite an adventure – good luck Frank Damp Anacortes, WA Kinda reminds me of the time I was working on the house we bought in Allen Park Michigan. I needed a bunch of tools from home and packed them in a satchel, must have weighed 30 pounds. Got to the airport, tried to go through the metal detector (this was back in ‘78) and they said "no way". Had to run back and check the satchel in. Don’t know why they got concerned, there were just some wrenches, slip joint pliers, combination square, wood chisels, hacksaw, 24" aluminum level shortened to 18" and some sundry items <grin. Hugh It was that evil sawed-off level that did it. You should have left it at 24" – they hadn’t yet started harping on long range sniper levels back in 78. — bill Theory don’t mean squat if it don’t work.

Actually it was the combination square that got ‘em. Guess it looked kinda ominous on the baggage checker screen. That plus the satchel clanked pretty good when I set it down on the belt. Hugh

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Curt: In the present world of airport paranoia, a bag full of metal things may present a real problem. You might be better off shipping a FedEx box of stuff to yourself at the RV seller’s address. Should be quite an adventure – good luck Frank Damp Anacortes, WA

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<< So, any pointers would be helpfull.   This may be obvious, but don’t bring anything remotely flamable.  No flares, WD40 or even tools smelling of the stuff.  The airport inspectors have sensitive, if stupid sniffers. They do allow credit cards wiith high limits. Tom

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After a couple of months searching I finally located a motorhome I’m comfortable buying, so the trip is set; fly from Anchorage to Iowa on the 20th of July, pick up the rig, go see Mom in Minnesota for a couple days, then haul out to Carson City Nevada to pick up a buddy, then back to Alaska.  I plan on using my checked baggage to bring along some tools, jumper cables, tape, wire…things like that (I’d rather NOT check a bag, but don’t see a carry-n going through with these things in it).  The rig is an 89 with 56k on it, I don’t expect any problems, but figure it won’t hurt to have some items along.  I plan to stop by a NAPA and pick up some belts, hoses, plugs and what-not, figure if I don’t use them, I can probably return them to my local NAPA (I’ll check on that before I leave).  Anyone have any suggestions on what else to have along?  I’ll have my cell phone with me, but don’t know that it’ll do anything for me in Canada.  If NAPA ok’s the return of the parts, I’ll probably grab an alternator and a water pump too. This trip is pretty much going to be a death march to get the rig home, I don’t plan on a whole lot of sight-seeing, or pleasure taking, but if anyone has info on a "must see" along the way I’d love to hear it.  Campgrounds to avoid would be another bonus.  For the most part though, we plan to split the driving, and not spend alot of idle time, as we are trying to meet friends in Seward for a week of fishing.  Once we get there we’ll wind down from the trip.  So, any pointers would be helpfull.  BTW, I have a milepost, so I got taht covered.  Thanks – Curt Quite an adventure.   Hoses and belts are a good idea, but I’d be more worried about tires and brakes.  They’re what’ll get you killed.  Have the radiator checked and flushed.  And you can leave the jumper cables and tools at home, they’re cheap down here.  You can buy a whole set of tools for fifty bucks.  Bring lots of money instead.  You may need it somewhere around Liard Springs. Two words.  Duct Tape. Talk about a leap of faith.  Whew. Bob

Good advice, the tires are nearly new, but I had thought about brakes…a slight change in plans has me going to Idaho instead of NV, so I don’t have to do any huge mountain slopes…I was considering just changing all the pads and bleeding the system before I started back. Duct tape is definately on the list though.  Yeah, it is a huge leap of faith, I’ve talked to the guy wqho owns it, and he assures me I’ll be happy with it…likely story I’m sure, but for now I’ll play the faith in human nature role, and hope it works out, if not, I guess I’ll fly back home and start looking again.  Thanks for the advice, like I said, I’d rather fly down with just a carry on and no checked bags, we’ll see how it works out.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -After a couple of months searching I finally located a motorhome I’m comfortable buying, so the trip is set; fly from Anchorage to Iowa on the 20th of July, pick up the rig, go see Mom in Minnesota for a couple days, then haul out to Carson City Nevada to pick up a buddy, then back to Alaska.   I plan on using my checked baggage to bring along some tools, jumper cables, tape, wire…things like that (I’d rather NOT check a bag, but don’t see a carry-n going through with these things in it).  The rig is an 89 with 56k on it, I don’t expect any problems, but figure it won’t hurt to have some items along.  I plan to stop by a NAPA and pick up some belts, hoses, plugs and what-not, figure if I don’t use them, I can probably return them to my local NAPA (I’ll check on that before I leave).  Anyone have any suggestions on what else to have along?  I’ll have my cell phone with me, but don’t know that it’ll do anything for me in Canada.  If NAPA ok’s the return of the parts, I’ll probably grab an alternator and a water pump too.  This trip is pretty much going to be a death march to get the rig home, I don’t plan on a whole lot of sight-seeing, or pleasure taking, but if anyone has info on a "must see" along the way I’d love to hear it.  Campgrounds to avoid would be another bonus.  For the most part though, we plan to split the driving, and not spend alot of idle time, as we are trying to meet friends in Seward for a week of fishing.  Once we get there we’ll wind down from the trip.   So, any pointers would be helpfull.  BTW, I have a milepost, so I got taht covered.  Thanks – Curt

Quite an adventure.   Hoses and belts are a good idea, but I’d be more worried about tires and brakes.  They’re what’ll get you killed.  Have the radiator checked and flushed.  And you can leave the jumper cables and tools at home, they’re cheap down here.  You can buy a whole set of tools for fifty bucks.  Bring lots of money instead.  You may need it somewhere around Liard Springs. Two words.  Duct Tape. Talk about a leap of faith.  Whew. Bob

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After a couple of months searching I finally located a motorhome I’m comfortable buying, so the trip is set; fly from Anchorage to Iowa on the 20th of July, pick up the rig, go see Mom in Minnesota for a couple days, then haul out to Carson City Nevada to pick up a buddy, then back to Alaska.    I plan on using my checked baggage to bring along some tools, jumper cables, tape, wire…things like that (I’d rather NOT check a bag, but don’t see a carry-n going through with these things in it).  The rig is an 89 with 56k on it, I don’t expect any problems, but figure it won’t hurt to have some items along.  I plan to stop by a NAPA and pick up some belts, hoses, plugs and what-not, figure if I don’t use them, I can probably return them to my local NAPA (I’ll check on that before I leave).  Anyone have any suggestions on what else to have along?  I’ll have my cell phone with me, but don’t know that it’ll do anything for me in Canada.  If NAPA ok’s the return of the parts, I’ll probably grab an alternator and a water pump too.   This trip is pretty much going to be a death march to get the rig home, I don’t plan on a whole lot of sight-seeing, or pleasure taking, but if anyone has info on a "must see" along the way I’d love to hear it.  Campgrounds to avoid would be another bonus.  For the most part though, we plan to split the driving, and not spend alot of idle time, as we are trying to meet friends in Seward for a week of fishing.  Once we get there we’ll wind down from the trip.    So, any pointers would be helpfull.  BTW, I have a milepost, so I got taht covered.  Thanks – Curt

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Question:

and hope that some of the flies that I tied..by no means the quality of the masters..yet put together with lots of hope and 8o thread would land me something that I could appreciate on a lure that made it decide to take mine instead of the naturals that abounded.

Hope, yes that’s the key drives so many of us to indulge in what would appear nothing short of madness to the uninitiated. learned that  a longtime ago when I was on my grandfathers knee and wondered why he let the "big ones" get away.

A connection to your past and for many of us as well.  My grandfather passed away this weekend and although we both loved to fish we never got to do it together.   Mu

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It was gorgeous this past Sunday on the Bow River here in Calgary. Little or no breeze on the water and the wildlife was strolling or making whatever noises the particular creatures that strolled by make. I was content to enjoy the warmth and hope that some of the flies that I tied..by no means the quality of the masters..yet put together with lots of hope and 8o thread would land me something that I could appreciate on a lure that made it decide to take mine instead of the naturals that abounded.. small winged wonders I was amazed how many of them used me as their bloody landing post.. I felt like O’hare as then did their dances and such on my waders.. Then I got lucky.. copying a nymph from the folks here I landed a small rainbow on a flashback hare’s ear.. nothing to brag about but beauty is in the eye of the fisherman when you land it and then let it go.. I learned that  a longtime ago when I was on my grandfathers knee and wondered why he let the "big ones" get away.. I got to feeling pretty smug sitting on the bank and enjoying the catch of the day for me, when I spied an osprey.. gliding on the thermals and making life look pretty damned easy.. Suddenly he swung down to the river so fast at first I thought he might had died in flight.. and plucked a rainbow bigger than the one I had landed.. his was for a meal or a family one of the two.. but I was humbled by the fisherman who made a mockery of my meagre talent… then again.. he cant tie cripples as effectively as I so I figure we are even… Thanks for letting me ramble // this was melancholy at best but the day was great and the sights were better than the fishing so far.. hopefully both will continue to improve as my skills better with time Pierre

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -It was gorgeous this past Sunday on the Bow River here in Calgary. Little or no breeze on the water and the wildlife was strolling or making whatever noises the particular creatures that strolled by make. I was content to enjoy the warmth and hope that some of the flies that I tied..by no means the quality of the masters..yet put together with lots of hope and 8o thread would land me something that I could appreciate on a lure that made it decide to take mine instead of the naturals that abounded.. small winged wonders I was amazed how many of them used me as their bloody landing post.. I felt like O’hare as then did their dances and such on my waders.. Then I got lucky.. copying a nymph from the folks here I landed a small rainbow on a flashback hare’s ear.. nothing to brag about but beauty is in the eye of the fisherman when you land it and then let it go.. I learned that  a longtime ago when I was on my grandfathers knee and wondered why he let the "big ones" get away.. I got to feeling pretty smug sitting on the bank and enjoying the catch of the day for me, when I spied an osprey.. gliding on the thermals and making life look pretty damned easy.. Suddenly he swung down to the river so fast at first I thought he might had died in flight.. and plucked a rainbow bigger than the one I had landed.. his was for a meal or a family one of the two.. but I was humbled by the fisherman who made a mockery of my meagre talent… then again.. he cant tie cripples as effectively as I so I figure we are even… Thanks for letting me ramble // this was melancholy at best but the day was great and the sights were better than the fishing so far.. hopefully both will continue to improve as my skills better with time Pierre

Thanks for the report Pierre.  Sounds like you caught more with your eye than with your fly.  Proves there’s a lot more to flyfishing than just catching. Pat K

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Question:

Does anyone have info re: the upcoming fly expo in Lisle.  I know that it’s sponsored by the Dupage River Fly Tyers (DRIFT) but am wondering if there will be industry vendors present.  Or, is it a clinic featuring DRIFT members? Thanks, Dave Before you buy.

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All I know is that its at the Hyatt on Jan 15th.  I’m going because there isn’t anything for flyfishermen at the Rosemont fishing show.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anyone have info re: the upcoming fly expo in Lisle.  I know that it’s sponsored by the Dupage River Fly Tyers (DRIFT) but am wondering if there will be industry vendors present.  Or, is it a clinic featuring DRIFT members? Thanks, Dave Before you buy.

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I heard from two people that last year’s show at Oak Brook was a huge flop. I’m not sure if the Lisle show is replacing the Oak Brook show.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – All I know is that its at the Hyatt on Jan 15th.  I’m going because there isn’t anything for flyfishermen at the Rosemont fishing show. Is that the show that they usually have in Oak Brook? Joel Axelrad

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Here’s the url: http://www.steelheadsite.com/mwff_expo.html

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – All I know is that its at the Hyatt on Jan 15th.  I’m going because there isn’t anything for flyfishermen at the Rosemont fishing show. Is that the show that they usually have in Oak Brook? Joel Axelrad

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All I know is that its at the Hyatt on Jan 15th.  I’m going because there isn’t anything for flyfishermen at the Rosemont fishing show.

Is that the show that they usually have in Oak Brook? Joel Axelrad

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Question:

 Sounds perfectly doable to me, and in fact ,easier than say kip or calf body. The bulk thing can be a problem with hair fibers and on small bugs the poly post is preferred. I use flats  only because of habit and the "natural" look.  I like the poly or  antron post because of the various colors one can use . Try a black post some time in  a white  foam line and you will literally_ see_ what I mean That’s what interesting about tying, not much is chiseled or even written in stone , you can do pretty much as you please. There are techniques that should be learned and practiced only because trial and error over time has shown them to be the "best" way.Once you master those, you can sub this for that and create things that work for _you_ …that’s the fun part.    Have at it ..;-)

Harry, that’s a great explanation on tying parachutes.  Your photographer should take a bow, too. BTW, I’ve always used an antron loop to form the post which I clip off the top when done, to form the wing.  Your method of tying off solved one of my problems; I’ll try it next time. Peter

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There is a very interesting material called spiderweb.  Salmon and steelheaders who tie their own roe sacks from nylon netting use it to tie off their spawn bags.  Basically you just wrap it around and around and it somehow sticks to itself (so it says on the packaging).  It looks as thin as 8/0.  It would make a good tie off thread for parachute hackle where you finish the hackle on the post not on the hook shank.  I believe this is the product that Hans van Klinken was talking about in his article www.algonet.se/~sjostran/English/10035.htm Inspired by van Klinken’s method but not wanting to rely on this very specialized spiderweb material, lately I’ve been tying off the head and leaving the hackle (already secured to the post at a much earlier step) for the last step.  I anchor my thread onto the post near the bottom. Then wind the hackle down.  Then tie of with a series of half-hitches – each one I can manipulate as it tightens down (with the hooked end of my whip finisher) so that it doesn’t trap any hackle. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Also BTW, is it better to tie the body first, or the parachute? If you tie the parachute first how do you keep the hackle out of the way when tieing the body?

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I use a slightly different technique, which results in a "flatter" hackle. I tie the post in as normal, tie the hackle in at the top of the thread on the post,  which is shorter than "normal", varnish the post with thin clear varnish, take three turns of hackle down the post, and then three turns back up through the hackle, I then wind the thread down through the hackle, binding the hackle down as I go, and just whip finish at the bottom of the post.  Using a needle from underneath, allow more thin varnish to soak into the windings. It also works with just four turns of hackle, two up, two down, and the hackle is then very flat with few stray fibres. ( I thought this might be what rw was referring to, when he said his hackles were too "bushy", meaning too spread out over the post length ). I have also done this around the base of normal split feather wings on dry flies without any problems.  I have not had one come undone while fishing yet. One must be careful here not to twist the wings too much when winding and finishing is all. I also often flatten the wings and hackle between my thumb and forefinger so that they are horizontal. This makes a great spinner pattern, with all the advantages of a parachute, and practically none of the disadvantages. This is especially good for larger flies where two turns of longish hackle are more than sufficient. The support given by a horizontal hackle is much greater than that given by a vertical hackle just sitting on its points. Works great. It is easier to do if you tilt the fly in the vice, as Hans suggests in his article about the Klinkhamer Special. But you can do it with the fly in the normal plane if you wish.  If your post is stiff enough, it is no trouble to wind through the hackle with ordinary 6/0 thread as you would on a normal fly. Makes a very robust fly, and there are more turns of hackle to support the fly where you need them, and not spread out over a longer length of the post. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://connor.via.t-online.de/

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I’ve had a demonstration by Hans van Klinken at the last Flyfair, tying the Klinkhammer in the fashion as on the mentioned webpage. It looks a bit awkward when you first see it, but try it! It’s a lot easier than it looks, sure made my parachutes a lot better. The key feature of spiderweb is it’s elasticity. Tie on as tight as you dare (its really, really thin) and it it will pull snug on itself, locking the hackle in the process. I think you can try thin nylon as an alternative.  Herman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There is a very interesting material called spiderweb.  Salmon and steelheaders who tie their own roe sacks from nylon netting use it to tie off their spawn bags.  Basically you just wrap it around and around and it somehow sticks to itself (so it says on the packaging).  It looks as thin as 8/0.  It would make a good tie off thread for parachute hackle where you finish the hackle on the post not on the hook shank.  I believe this is the product that Hans van Klinken was talking about in his article www.algonet.se/~sjostran/English/10035.htm Inspired by van Klinken’s method but not wanting to rely on this very specialized spiderweb material, lately I’ve been tying off the head and leaving the hackle (already secured to the post at a much earlier step) for the last step.  I anchor my thread onto the post near the bottom. Then wind the hackle down.  Then tie of with a series of half-hitches – each one I can manipulate as it tightens down (with the hooked end of my whip finisher) so that it doesn’t trap any hackle. Also BTW, is it better to tie the body first, or the parachute? If you tie the parachute first how do you keep the hackle out of the way when tieing the body?

–         Cheers, Herman         Herman Nijland         Daytime webmaster         Lifetime flyfisher

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When I try the Parachute Adams I can’t get the hackle to look as nice as the store-bought ones. The professionally tied flies have nice "thin" parachutes, but mine are kind of bushy. Any suggestions, Harry? Are you referring to the post being bushy ? or  the hackle ?

I was referring to the hackle. Also BTW, is it better to tie the body first, or the parachute? If you tie the parachute first how do you keep the hackle out of the way when tieing the body? — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

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If I get a chance I’ll upload a pic of the tye in area a bit later today……

  Take a look  : http://www.troutflies.com/flies/Parachute_howtoo/5Aposthackle_tieinMA… Harry Mason www.Troutflies.com

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – When I try the Parachute Adams I can’t get the hackle to look as nice as the store-bought ones. The professionally tied flies have nice "thin" parachutes, but mine are kind of bushy. Any suggestions, Harry? Are you referring to the post being bushy ? or  the hackle ? I was referring to the hackle. Also BTW, is it better to tie the body first, or the parachute? If you tie the parachute first how do you keep the hackle out of the way when tieing the body?

  Some undersize the hackle by a hook size or so. I like that as well IMO, I think neck hackles are a better feather for a parachute because the barbs are stiffer, again IMO.  Being stiffer, they stay perpendicular to the post and do not "mesh"  with each other.A clean crisp look ,if you will. With this method you can tye in the hackle and the just leave it. After you apply the tail and dub the body including the head, you can then wrap the hackle and tye it off at the eye as a last step. What is clean about this is the fly is in essence done when you begin to wrap the hackle, you do not have to come back and dub the hackle tye down area after the hackle wraps. The last wraps are for the hackle .  The hackle will stand straight up alongside  the post and be out of the way more or less as you build the rest of the fly. Harry Mason www.Troutflies.com

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  I tried to  clarify the steps for the Parachute tye down. Comments welcome  http://www.troutflies.com/flies/Parachute_howtoo/10A_finished.htm Harry Mason www.troutflies.com

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 I tried to  clarify the steps for the Parachute tye down. Comments welcome

The only comment I can think of is great job, very helpful instructions. — Charlie…

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Harry,  I tried to  clarify the steps for the Parachute tye down. Comments welcome http://www.troutflies.com/flies/Parachute_howtoo/10A_finished.htm

I’m mightily impressed with that how-to!  This is how God intended fly patterns to be presented when He invented the Web. Anybody else putting patterns on the web:  Note that Harry’s raised the bar. Bravo. Wes Peterson Who would call himself "liberal," let him love justice. Let him love equality. Let him love compassion and charity. But let him love first, and above all the rest, Liberty.

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  I tried to  clarify the steps for the Parachute tye down. Comments welcome  http://www.troutflies.com/flies/Parachute_howtoo/10A_finished.htm

Very nice job Harry. Quality pictures well explained. TL MC

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http://www.troutflies.com/flies/Parachute_howtoo/10A_finished.htm

Nice shots Harry. Who did your camera work? Someone with a lot of pateince? Do you usually hackle your flies before putting on the tail & dubbing. Seems to me I would have to move the hackle around too much & would have to be carefull not to bind the fibers down. Sol

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http://www.troutflies.com/flies/Parachute_howtoo/10A_finished.htm Nice shots Harry. Who did your camera work? Someone with a lot of pateince? Do you usually hackle your flies before putting on the tail & dubbing. Seems to me I would have to move the hackle around too much & would have to be carefull not to bind the fibers down. Sol

  Thanks , Sol.  It’s just about the hackling method, not a pattern. For those that are just starting, seeing how can be much better than reading. Now if I can just find a way to show a blind pinch through my thumb I can tye a no hackle for the camera Harry Mason www.Troutflies.com

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Thanks Harry….that’s a fine piece of work. I have alot of novice tiers in my wintercourse who will be very gladto get the URL from me. This indeed wil make things clear for them and give ‘m the oppotunity to take a good look when they’re back home again! Very nice photographic work too! — Hans van der Stroom http://www.casema.net/~stroomh ICQ # 20196762 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   I tried to  clarify the steps for the Parachute tye down. Comments welcome  http://www.troutflies.com/flies/Parachute_howtoo/10A_finished.htm Harry Mason www.troutflies.com

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 I tried to  clarify the steps for the Parachute tye down. Comments welcome Harry Mason www.troutflies.com

Those are magnificent pictures, Harry, and very lucid text.  But let me desecribe an alternative method and ask you what you think of it. I learned this from Doug Wennick of Flyfisher’s Paradise, State College, PA. 1.  Select a length of post material (I like antron yarn) that is twice as long as necessary but only half as thick. 2.  Tie it across the BOTTOM of the hook shank with two figure-8 wraps, at right angles, like a "low-wing" airplane (or Trico spinner). 3.  Pull both "wings" upright, straight up, to make a post, and wrap the tying thread around it to hold it there,  just as in your picture. I have found this to work better, for me, than starting with the post material parallel to the hook shank and then propping it up and cutting off the tag ends. A lot less bulk. I would appreciate hearing your comments, pro or con,  about this method.  Thanks. vince norris

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When I try the Parachute Adams I can’t get the hackle to look as nice as the store-bought ones. The professionally tied flies have nice "thin" parachutes, but mine are kind of bushy. Any suggestions, Harry? BTW, is it better to wind the grizzly hackle and the brown hackle at the same time or separately? — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

When I try the Parachute Adams I can’t get the hackle to look as nice as the store-bought ones. The professionally tied flies have nice "thin" parachutes, but mine are kind of bushy. Any suggestions, Harry?

Are you referring to the post being bushy ? or  the hackle ? BTW, is it better to wind the grizzly hackle and the brown hackle at the same time or separately?

 I like separate wraps.I find that if you turn both at the same time they do not "seat" well , one turns or spins and the thing turns into a hay seed.    Bind in last of  the two hackles a bit above the prior one on the post . Turn ( wrap) the lower one first.  You do not need to tye it off per say just half hitch the first one at the eye. Wrap the second one down to the eye and tye off both of them . This is the same method you can use for multiple hackle drys like Sofa pillows  or  the like . The only difference is the hackle collar is on the hook, not a post. Harry Mason www.troutflies.com

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Hi RW, I also like the antron or poly yarn tied as per the last message. The professionally tied flies having the "nice thin" parachutes are probably the cause of the tier starting the wraps of hackle lower and giving you fewer wraps. I tend to tie still water flies sparsely and the rougher the water the fuller the hackling and tailing. I wrap both hackles at the same time. This works best if you don’t use hackle pliers and if you use maximum tension on the hackle. You will find the maximum but trial and error When I try the Parachute Adams I can’t get the hackle to look as nice as the store-bought ones. The professionally tied flies have nice "thin" parachutes, but mine are kind of bushy. Any suggestions, Harry? BTW, is it better to wind the grizzly hackle and the brown hackle at the same time or separately? — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

– Vic Brockett http://home.earthlink.net/~vicbrockett

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If I get a chance I’ll upload a pic of the tye in area a bit later today…… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – When I try the Parachute Adams I can’t get the hackle to look as nice as the store-bought ones. The professionally tied flies have nice "thin" parachutes, but mine are kind of bushy. Any suggestions, Harry? Are you referring to the post being bushy ? or  the hackle ? BTW, is it better to wind the grizzly hackle and the brown hackle at the same time or separately? I like separate wraps.I find that if you turn both at the same time they do not "seat" well , one turns or spins and the thing turns into a hay seed.   Bind in last of  the two hackles a bit above the prior one on the post . Turn ( wrap) the lower one first.  You do not need to tye it off per say just half hitch the first one at the eye. Wrap the second one down to the eye and tye off both of them . This is the same method you can use for multiple hackle drys like Sofa pillows  or  the like . The only difference is the hackle collar is on the hook, not a post. Harry Mason www.troutflies.com

Harry Mason www.troutflies.com

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One of those, *hey why didn’t I think of it before* ideas. There are some instances where the thick part on the back of the post is actually useful to build up bulk for a nice tapered body but I can definitely think of situations where I had wished it wasn’t there.  Thanks. Mu Young Lee Ann Arbor, MI USA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I learned this from Doug Wennick of Flyfisher’s Paradise, State College, PA. 1.  Select a length of post material (I like antron yarn) that is twice as long as necessary but only half as thick. 2.  Tie it across the BOTTOM of the hook shank with two figure-8 wraps, at right angles, like a "low-wing" airplane (or Trico spinner). 3.  Pull both "wings" upright, straight up, to make a post, and wrap the tying thread around it to hold it there,  just as in your picture. I have found this to work better, for me, than starting with the post material parallel to the hook shank and then propping it up and cutting off the tag ends. A lot less bulk. I would appreciate hearing your comments, pro or con,  about this method.  Thanks. vince norris

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  Sounds perfectly doable to me, and in fact ,easier than say kip or calf body. The bulk thing can be a problem with hair fibers and on small bugs the poly post is preferred. I use flats  only because of habit and the "natural" look.  I like the poly or  antron post because of the various colors one can use . Try a black post some time in  a white  foam line and you will literally_ see_ what I mean  That’s what interesting about tying, not much is chiseled or even written in stone , you can do pretty much as you please. There are techniques that should be learned and practiced only because trial and error over time has shown them to be the "best" way.Once you master those, you can sub this for that and create things that work for _you_ …that’s the fun part.    Have at it ..;-) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  I tried to  clarify the steps for the Parachute tye down. Comments welcome Harry Mason www.troutflies.com Those are magnificent pictures, Harry, and very lucid text.  But let me desecribe an alternative method and ask you what you think of it. I learned this from Doug Wennick of Flyfisher’s Paradise, State College, PA. 1.  Select a length of post material (I like antron yarn) that is twice as long as necessary but only half as thick. 2.  Tie it across the BOTTOM of the hook shank with two figure-8 wraps, at right angles, like a "low-wing" airplane (or Trico spinner). 3.  Pull both "wings" upright, straight up, to make a post, and wrap the tying thread around it to hold it there,  just as in your picture. I have found this to work better, for me, than starting with the post material parallel to the hook shank and then propping it up and cutting off the tag ends. A lot less bulk. I would appreciate hearing your comments, pro or con,  about this method.  Thanks. vince norris

Harry Mason www.Troutflies.com

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Question:

You don’t need a video to tell you that if the lines breaking you need a higher wt line.  When guides say to you "there’s no way you need more than a 4lb tippet on that river" what they really mean is that IFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF you had the shuttle, boat and knowledge of where the holes were, that even though the current was raging back at the public fishing area you could fish 2-4lb leader in the deep wide holes they fish.  They don’t know that you need a 10lb leader back where the currents raging and the fish can get out sideways in it.  So when they tell you there’s no way you need anything bigger than a 5.1lb tippet (or whatever they claim is the max wt used by "real fishermen")

Unless one has no ability at all to play a fish properly, he will certainly land more fish on a heavier tippet.   At the same time, it is certainly possible to successfully land a big fish on a very light tippet.   On the Salmon River, though, (and anywhere for that matter) you need to balance more than just landing a fish against tippet strength.   If you play a fish for 45 minutes on a 4 lb tippet, everyone around you has to keep their lines out of the water and thumbs up their asses while you have a good time all by yourself.   And when you have it on the beach, it will be dead beat and no candidate for c&r if you are so inclined.   On the other hand, boy was that fun. If you tie on a big heavy tippet, you’ll be able to put a lot more pressure on the fish and get it to the beach more quickly.   Go too far in this direction, however, and you may as well be one of the brainless meat fishermen spin casting with 30 lb mono to haul ‘em in. For me, a guy of below average ability, I’ve found 8 or 10 lb to be quite sufficient on the Salmon R. to give me a good balance of sport, success, and courtesy.   I will add that if you are breaking off a lot, be sure it’s not your knots.

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You don’t need a video to tell you that if the lines breaking you need a higher wt line.  When guides say to you "there’s no way you need more than a 4lb tippet on that river" what they really mean is that IFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF you had the shuttle, boat and knowledge of where the holes were, that even though the current was raging back at the public fishing area you could fish 2-4lb leader in the deep wide holes they fish.  They don’t know that you need a 10lb leader back where the currents raging and the fish can get out sideways in it.  So when they tell you there’s no way you need anything bigger than a 5.1lb tippet (or whatever they claim is the max wt used by "real fishermen") Tie your own tappered leaders.  I was reading in a book on al fly fishing just the other nite that the author reccomends making your tappered leader from 40, 30, 20 and 18in of material of 25, 20, 15, and 10lb line respectively.  Good luck, I hope this has been some help. Fished the Salmon River in Pulaski, New York with a fly rod this week and found the experience to be quite different from that of dry fly fishing.  I hooked and broke off three fish and would like any recommendations on:  books/videos relate to this type of fishing, recs on a good entry level rod and reel for

– Cordially, Mike McNally Speculators may do no harm as bubbles on a steady stream of enterprise. But the position is serious when enterprise becomes the bubble on a whirlpool of speculation.               –John Maynard Keynes

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You don’t need a video to tell you that if the lines breaking you need a higher wt line.  When guides say to you "there’s no way you need more than a 4lb tippet on that river" what they really mean

<snip Amen. I have used a short (7 ft) 10 or 12 lb tippet on my sink tip, and a 12 ft 8 lb tippet for salmon and steelhead for years. Yep, I lose some still, but I have caught (and released) more than 150 salmon this fall alone.

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I just got Flies for Steelhead by Farrow Allen and Dick Stewart from Lyons Press (~$20 softcover). The photography is quite good and it has a thorough collection of patterns from different regions of the country. The flies in the photos are tied either by the inventor of the pattern or by a well known tyer from the region of origin.  Great Lakes Steelhead – A Guided Tour for Fly Anglers from Back Country Press ($20) is a great book by Bob Linsenmann and Steve Nevala (fun reading).  There is a brief but very practical sections on techniques, equipment, etc in the beginning. The rest of the book is a collection of essays collected from these guys going fishing with a number of guides in their home waters.  Fly Fishing for Salmon and Steelhead of the Great Lakes by Ken Filkins ($17 Wilderness Books – hard to find but available on www.amazon.com).  This book mostly emphasizes chuck and duck type fishing but has a really good section on fish attitudes towards different types of flies & presentations thus explaining (or at least stating) why many west coast techniques are only effective during a short period of the steelhead’s migration into midwestern tributaries.  I’ve been using a Scientific Anglers System 2m 8/9.  It’s a reasonably inexpensive and very reliable disc drag reel.  The regular System 2 is quite heavy but I don’t know if the 2m is still in production.  As far as a rod is concerned I bought myself the cheapest one I could find, a St. Croix 9ft 9 weight Pro-Graphite.  With all the brush I run through, the slippery rocks, ice, hands made numb and clumsy by the bitter chill, I wouldn’t want to risk damaging an expensive stick.  Just letting you know what has worked well for me.  I don’t have the experience nor the moeny to really tell you what other options are available to you. Good Fishing.    Mu Young Lee         Ann Arbor, MI  o             oooo                          o   o   o o   o o o  o – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Fished the Salmon River in Pulaski, New York with a fly rod this week and found the experience to be quite different from that of dry fly fishing.  I hooked and broke off three fish and would like any recommendations on:  books/videos relate to this type of fishing, recs on a good entry level rod and reel for

Response:

Fished the Salmon River in Pulaski, New York with a fly rod this week and found the experience to be quite different from that of dry fly fishing.  I hooked and broke off three fish and would like any recommendations on:  books/videos relate to this type of fishing, recs on a good entry level rod and reel for

It seems to be normal to break off 3 fish in this sort of fishing: but not normal to break off 100 per cent of hookups. The range of tackle is from medium (say 6 weight rod with 2x or 6 lb. tippets) to strong (8 or 9 weight, tippets 0X or 12 lb.) This river is sufficiently free of obstructions that you can fish the lighter tackle — provided you have a first-class reel, because its drag is important.  (Heavier tackle is useful in smaller Michigan or Ontario steelhead rivers.) Winter freshwater salmon and steelhead seem not to be leader shy.  They may or may not avoid sideways drag: but the essential point is to be able to present the fly as deep as the fish’s holding depth, whatever that is.  I have known people to make special sinking leaders (coated with powdered led embedded in glue) for this purpose. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Fished the Salmon River in Pulaski, New York with a fly rod this week and found the experience to be quite different from that of dry fly fishing.  I hooked and broke off three fish and would like any recommendations on:  books/videos relate to this type of fishing, recs on a good entry level rod and reel for

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Question:

I’ve never been to the Outer Banks but would like to fish the area if there are some flats for boat or wading for redfish … would like to hear from anyone who has info on fishing the area … hear that Ocrakoke is thanks, Bob Vorel

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Bob: Dave Motes here Excellent wade fishing in the sounds behind the Outer banks–all over. Virtually any place you can get to the sound (Manteo causeway south; Currituck is brackish and holds stripers and LMB’s, and trout and flounder when rainfall is lower). You can wade almost anywhere–all the sounds are shallow, though with moving tides and waves in cool water, be careful.  Most places have hard sand bottom.  I also was approached by a large in-shore shark once, probably a bull, at Pea Island.  He left me alone though almost killed my indirectly by pulmonary explosion. My favorite spots:   Manteo Causeway area Bodie Island light  (right turn before the light, in the circle park at the gate; walk down the path then bear right; fish the gut from the dock out west and into the sound there); the top of Pea Island (park at the foot of the Bonner Bridge, cross the road, don’t get run over, bear left, walk out the break; farther the better, all the way to the point if you’re energetic.) anywhere south of there will work; when the water’s clear look for the creases and holes.  Around Hatteras there’s a lifesaving station and a long slough there called (I think )7-mile slough–usually holds fish. I’m talking specs here–flounder also mixed in, blues and stripers, especially around Oregon Inlet–more reds to the south though every year’s different.  I haven’t fished Ocracoke but I’ve heard that there are more and more puppy drum around, and if conditions are right you can even find them in the shallows tailing and rooting a la FLA.  Use any fly you want as long as it’s a clouser in green–UltraHair works–or a bendback deceiver if the grass gets pesky. Happy to go more.  Let me know when you’re planning to go–maybe we can hook up. Zander Brody guides out of Hatteras.  Happy to drive you around and show you spots and put you on fish, surf, sound, or boat. Dave

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Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – We’ve always called suckers, fallfish, big chubs, etc. by the name Hoover-mouth Trout. No dishonour in these fish. They’ve saved a few days on the river, and taught my kids how to fish a dry fly. Hi Brent I like your attitude.  I feel the same about Mountain Whitefish.  They get a lot of bad press (undeserved I feel) and have saved more than one day of fishing for me. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)Yep, last spring I was steelheading on the White River in MI and I

didn’t even see a steelie, but a few suckers made some really impressive reel-screaming runs. The grey tumors on their sides were kind of a bummer, though, and my buddy was taken aback when one that I hooked made a thirty yard run downstream straight to his boot and started sucking away.  Fun fish, though. -Jon

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We’ve always called suckers, fallfish, big chubs, etc. by the name Hoover-mouth Trout.

BTW, as I was in line at the supermarket yesterday I couldn’t help but think of fishing as I noticed the cover of the current COSMOPOLITAN magazine. It was like I had a good fish on then got it close and – damn, a sucker. This lip injection fad has gone too far. Mark Vinsel http://www.lanminds.com/local/vinnie/gallery.html

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We’ve always called suckers, fallfish, big chubs, etc. by the name Hoover-mouth Trout. BTW, as I was in line at the supermarket yesterday I couldn’t help but think of fishing as I noticed the cover of the current COSMOPOLITAN magazine. It was like I had a good fish on then got it close and – damn, a sucker. This lip injection fad has gone too far.

true, but they’re sporting a cleavage factor of 9 these days. TimW

Response:

We’ve always called suckers, fallfish, big chubs, etc. by the name Hoover-mouth Trout. No dishonour in these fish. They’ve saved a few days on the river, and taught my kids how to fish a dry fly.

Hi Brent I like your attitude.  I feel the same about Mountain Whitefish.  They get a lot of bad press (undeserved I feel) and have saved more than one day of fishing for me. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

Response:

We’ve always called suckers, fallfish, big chubs, etc. by the name Hoover-mouth Trout. No dishonour in these fish. They’ve saved a few days on the river, and taught my kids how to fish a dry fly.

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Question:

writes: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi. I am finishing up a Masters degree in Film from American University and have been posed with the challenge of writing a ten-minute script illuminating the joys and tribulations of fly fishing–specifically, fly fishing for trout. Why fly fishing? Any response, e-mail or posted, would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Chris Strobel Dear Chris; Because it is the best/only way to catch a trout after the middle of May when the critters start to focus-in on bugs. Thank-you.  That is all. Jason Beary

Chris,  for me its the ability not to have to leave the sport in the off season.  Tying flys, reading, studying the entomology and biology is fascinating, and it fills up snowy evenings – a glass of Merlot, a pattern book and a pile for fur and feathers – that I turn into a "bug" that will fool a fish.  Not such a lofty pursuit, but an absorbing one. jg Huntington NY

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Part of the lure(?? a pun)of flyfishing for me is that you are taking materials such as fur,feathers,yarn etc.which if cast upon the waters by themselves would produce nothing. If you take the same materials ,combine them in such a way,to create a fly,(which hopefully will resemble a natural)and present it to a fish,and the fish takes it..Well thats satisfying. I guess that it is that you are in complete control of part of the game(buying the materials,what you buy,your skill etc.)but once you put it on the water ,its up,to the fish.And the fish taking your fly or not is the measure of success or failure.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi. I am finishing up a Masters degree in Film from American University and have been posed with the challenge of writing a ten-minute script illuminating the joys and tribulations of fly fishing–specifically, fly fishing for trout.  Does it have something to do with the peacefulness of the stream, or is there a particular challenge to fly fishing that the rest of us don’t know about and wouldn’t understand?   Having never been much of a fisherman (other than the bluegill from a small lake in my childhood) I don’t have experience with fly fishing and was wondering if anyone would like to tell me why they do what they do… Why fly fishing? Any response, e-mail or posted, would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Chris Strobel

Chris, "Penthouse" or "Playboy" would never ask a virgin to write a story about sex. And your question, why fly fishing?, sounds just about as silly as that virgin asking people, "why do you enjoy sex". Ya just gotta try it to underestand it! Do some research on your own, fishing that is. Take a leason or two, go fishing and then write your script. Short of that, you’re just writing an expos

Question:

Can anyone point me in the direction of Mail Order companies that sell a good range of Fly fishing books. Thanks Simon Simon Lusk Fly Fishing New Zealand on the WWW http://www-aghort.massey.ac.nz/flyfish/intro Department of Consumer Technology Massey University Palmerston North New Zealand

Response:

Hi Three that come to mind are: Dan Bailey’s 1-800-356-4052 Kaufman’s Streamborn  1-800-442-4359 Cabela’s Fly Fishing 1-800-237-4444 Give the 800 # a call and request a catalog. Good Luck Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (catalog avail)

Response:

Try         The Anglers Art         P. O. Box 148         Plainfield, PA 17081         phone (717) 243-9721         fax (717) 243-8603 Very complete and very friendly and helpful. Cheers

Response:

Can anyone point me in the direction of Mail Order companies that sell a good range of Fly fishing books. Thanks Simon

I was just looking through a magazine (about a year old) this morning that had an advertisement.  They claim to have hundreds of titles to choose from.  They are: The Angler’s Art Box 148 Plainfield, PA   17081 Their phone number is:  717-243-9721 and fax line 717-243-8603 Curtis

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Drop an email note to the Brookside Angler in Manchester, VT. They have an extensive list of titles available. Web address http://www.sover.net/~batenkil/flyshop.html

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I’m interested in buying a quality 3 wt outfit – like a Sage LL379 or Thomas & Thomas 7′6" 3 wt paired with possibly a Lamson.  Any dealers or individuals interested in making me an attractive (discounted) offer for the package?. Please contact me by E’mail. Thanks, Mike Ray Atlatna, GA Cashiers, NC

Response:

Drop an email note to the Brookside Angler in Manchester, VT. They have an extensive list of titles available. Web address http://www.sover.net/~batenkil/flyshop.html

Yes try the Merlin Unwin Books catalogue at www.demon.co.uk/M_Unwin_Books or email me for further details Regards

Response:

Can anyone point me in the direction of Mail Order companies that sell a good range of Fly fishing books.

Bennetts of sheffield stock a wide range of videos/ books on the subject. http:/www.dmatters.co.uk/toshops2.html will give you their telephone and fax numbers – just ask them what they have and they will either mail/fax/telephone you. or email them http://www.dmatters.co.uk

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Question:

        Why don’t we start another subnet for flyfishing, and then break down each major cat. so that we can become organized in our net. Something to think about, it’s helped other news groups out alot! GN

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   Why don’t we start another subnet for flyfishing, and then break down each major cat. so that we can become organized in our net. Something to think about, it’s helped other news groups out alot!

The traffic level isn’t high enough to justify creating subgroups.  The flyfishing discussions seem to be coexisting quite well with all the other discussions.   — John Fereira

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