Question:

George somebody (can’t remember his last name) once told me to

I can’t imagine anyone named George flaming anyone in this manner. <g — TL, Tim

Response:

George somebody (can’t remember his last name) once told me to I can’t imagine anyone named George flaming anyone in this manner. <g

I’m shocked! SHOCKED! I tells ya! /daytripper (Could never happen here

Response:

There’s an old Western pattern, The Rio Grande Trude, that’s VERY similar to your Pass Lake. It was somewhat of a standard some twenty years ago, but you seldom see it anymore. There was a guy that specialized in the fly and caught some very big fish in waters that generally demand very small flies. One of the reason the fly is so good is that it fishes well dry, damp or wet. Willi

Help me out here. Isn’t the Rio Grande Trude basically a Royal Trude with out the red thread on the body? If so I keep several of those in my fly box. The Royal Trude is my favorite fly on my favorite stream. However, if the fishies are being fussy and not taking it, I will try the Rio Grande (or at least what I am thinking is Rio Grande) and sometimes I will start catching fish with it. It seems odd to me that that small of a change in the fly (no red body thread) will make that much difference. Also, if they are taking the Royal they won’t touch the Rio Grande. Russell

Response:

"pittendrigh" < George somebody (can’t remember his last name) once told me to It was funny.  In fact, thanks George. I needed that.

Sorry, I can’t help myself here Sandy… was it the telling you needed or did you actually do it and discover you needed it? c):-) Clark

Response:

  Very interesting.  Peacock herl is fascinating stuff.  There are many   materials with a vast range of uses in fly tying, but peacock herl is a   true standout among them.  It is the only material I know of which   virtually guarantees that flies incorporating it will catch   fish……there’s just something magic about it.  I have never   encountered a fly using peacock herl that is not a good fish catcher.     That said, I find it a bit odd to see it in a dry fly.  Herl, by its   very nature, floats like a brick.  Unlike many feathers, it is not the   least bit hydrophobic…..quite the contrary, it wicks up water so   effectively that it is difficult to make it float, even with the best of   floatants.     Never having seen this fly in action, I would suspect that the wing   stays on the surface while the body is submerged.  While this sort of   arrangement often makes it hard to keep a fly floating at all, thus   causing no end of frustration, it is often VERY appealing to fish.  My   own favorite Pass Lake works on the same principle.  I tie it with a   chenille body (equally problematic in dry flies) which will occasionally   allow the fly to sit on the surface for a short while but inevitably   causes the entire body to sink through the meniscus, leaving the wing   (at best) to keep the whole damned thing from sinking.  Both trout and   panfish frequently find this irresistible. My guess is that the fly Harry posted is going to float LESS well than your Pass Lake. CDC does float but not well enough to hold the weight of a soaked peacock body. Like you stated through, that’s not necessarily a bad thing. There’s an old Western pattern, The Rio Grande Trude, that’s VERY similar to your Pass Lake. It was somewhat of a standard some twenty years ago, but you seldom see it anymore. There was a guy that specialized in the fly and caught some very big fish in waters that generally demand very small flies. One of the reason the fly is so good is that it fishes well dry, damp or wet. Willi

Response:

Yeah you’re right, I over reacted and apologize to Sandy.

Not necessary, and not a problem. I did say "it’s interesting how ideas get invented multiple times," didn’t I? Anyway, if you want to play on the internet it helps to have a thick skin. Words come right off the tips of people’s fingertips, and, as such, are easily interpreted in multiple, unintended ways.   George somebody (can’t remember his last name) once told me to It was funny.  In fact, thanks George. I needed that.

Response:

I just made a new set of step-by-step tying instructions for the world famous ‘Flat Caddis’ This is a fly I’ve been tying for years. It’s an attempt an anatomically more accurate version of the Troth Elk Hair Caddis. This fly does lie flat to the water, like a real caddis fly. And I enjoy tying it. Does it catch more fish than an Elk Hair Caddis? I can’t honestly say yes. It certainly does just as well however, and it floats like a cork.   There is something about horizontally oriented parachute hackles that does a better job of floating a dry fly than traditional hackles. http://montana-riverboats.com/pages/pages.php?page_title=FlatCaddis

Response:

I just made a new set of step-by-step tying instructions for the world famous ‘Flat Caddis’

I also like this fly better than a traditional EHC but I like an EHC with no hackle in the body and a traditional hackle, full but slightly undersized, best. I also tie the wing slightly longer than normal. When tied that way, the fly rides the water "full of life" and you can easily give the fly some lifelike action which I think is often a trigger for fish. I also fish an EHC with no hackle at all. It floats reasonably well when totally dry but is most effective down in the film or slightly sunken. Willi

Response:

I just made a new set of step-by-step tying instructions for the world famous ‘Flat Caddis’ I also like this fly better than a traditional EHC but I like an EHC with no hackle in the body and a traditional hackle, full but slightly undersized, best.

I’ve always like the pattern you describe too, Willi, but I’ve never thought of it as simply a variant EHC.  I’m pretty sure it has a name of its own but that name escapes me.  Anybody? Wolfgang

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just made a new set of step-by-step tying instructions for the world famous ‘Flat Caddis’ I also like this fly better than a traditional EHC but I like an EHC with no hackle in the body and a traditional hackle, full but slightly undersized, best. I’ve always like the pattern you describe too, Willi, but I’ve never thought of it as simply a variant EHC.  I’m pretty sure it has a name of its own but that name escapes me.  Anybody? Wolfgang

 I think this style was first made popular by Ralph Cutter and  his e/c caddis http://www.troutflies.com/go.mv?ID=e/c and  Bob Brooks Headlight caddis http://www.troutflies.com/go.mv?ID=headlite Harry

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I also like this fly better than a traditional EHC but I like an EHC with no hackle in the body and a traditional hackle, full but slightly undersized, best. I’ve always like the pattern you describe too, Willi, but I’ve never thought of it as simply a variant EHC.  I’m pretty sure it has a name of its own but that name escapes me.  Anybody? Wolfgang  I think this style was first made popular by Ralph Cutter and  his e/c caddis http://www.troutflies.com/go.mv?ID=e/c and  Bob Brooks Headlight caddis http://www.troutflies.com/go.mv?ID=headlite

The above patterns are similar to the Flat Caddis Pittendrigh described. The pattern I was describing may have a name, but it evolved for me from a pattern described by Wright that from what I remember, he called a Skittering or Fluttering Caddis. He used spade hackle tips for the wings (some other tiers used mink hairs) that were tied in in three bunches. These materials are hard to get and the wing was hard to tie "right" so the fly would have action and good flotation. I substituted elk/deer hair for the wing. Over time, I lengthened the wing and used more turns of hackle but with a hackle one size smaller than "usual." This makes for a fly that skitters and hops on the surface very easily. Willi

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I also like this fly better than a traditional EHC but I like an EHC with no hackle in the body and a traditional hackle, full but slightly undersized, best. I’ve always like the pattern you describe too, Willi, but I’ve never thought of it as simply a variant EHC.  I’m pretty sure it has a name of its own but that name escapes me.  Anybody? Wolfgang  I think this style was first made popular by Ralph Cutter and  his e/c caddis http://www.troutflies.com/go.mv?ID=e/c and  Bob Brooks Headlight caddis http://www.troutflies.com/go.mv?ID=headlite The above patterns are similar to the Flat Caddis Pittendrigh described. The pattern I was describing may have a name, but it evolved for me from a pattern described by Wright that from what I remember, he called a Skittering or Fluttering Caddis. He used spade hackle tips for the wings (some other tiers used mink hairs) that were tied in in three bunches. These materials are hard to get and the wing was hard to tie "right" so the fly would have action and good flotation. I substituted elk/deer hair for the wing. Over time, I lengthened the wing and used more turns of hackle but with a hackle one size smaller than "usual." This makes for a fly that skitters and hops on the surface very easily. Willi

I’ve been tying caddis in this style for nearly twenty years and the idea was not original.  It was taught to me by the Malignant Dwarf who, if memory serves, learned it from someone else when he began twenty or more years before.   Sorry Harry, but what I’m thinking of (and what I believe Willi is describing) doesn’t look much like either of the flies on the pages you cited. Wolfgang

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just made a new set of step-by-step tying instructions for the world famous ‘Flat Caddis’ I also like this fly better than a traditional EHC but I like an EHC with no hackle in the body and a traditional hackle, full but slightly undersized, best. I’ve always like the pattern you describe too, Willi, but I’ve never thought of it as simply a variant EHC.  I’m pretty sure it has a name of its own but that name escapes me.  Anybody? Wolfgang

I’ve always heard them called Skittering Caddis.  There is a version at http://www.hawkeyeflyfishing.com/Fly_patterns/Drys/D15.html  ,though the version I prefer has no palmered hackle on the body, but a dense short conventional hackle in front of the wing. BTW I have used a larger version of this fly  (light wire size 6 salmon/steelhead hook) to good effect on steelhead this time of year – also effective on trout during the October Caddis hatch Bob Weinberger

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"William Loehman/Susan Schwarz" I also like this fly better than a traditional EHC but I like an EHC with no hackle in the body and a traditional hackle, full but slightly undersized, best. I also tie the wing slightly longer than normal. When tied that way, the fly rides the water "full of life" and you can easily give the fly some lifelike action which I think is often a trigger for fish. I also fish an EHC with no hackle at all. It floats reasonably well when totally dry but is most effective down in the film or slightly sunken.

I like similar styles and particularly like an EHC with a cdc hackle instead of the traditional. Very effective on spring creeks. Clark

Response:

I think this style was first made popular by Ralph Cutter and  his e/c caddis http://www.troutflies.com/go.mv?ID=e/c and  Bob Brooks Headlight caddis http://www.troutflies.com/go.mv?ID=headlite Harry

Hello Harry: Yes, those flies are interesting: basically the same fly as mine. My proportions are different, and I don’t bother with a dubbed body, but basically it’s the same. Every idea seems to get invented multiple times. I got email from an historian the other day (among other things, he’s tracking down a reference to flies taken along on the Lewis and Clark expedition). Anyway one thing led to another. I mentioned to him I first showed the Flat Caddis to Gary LaFontaine in 1981, at a fly fishing demonstration Gary put on at Dave Kumlein’s Bozeman Orvis shop. Gary liked that fly, and offered to ‘help me get it published.’ In retrospect, I was a fool not to take him up on that.

Response:

Your right I was looking at the  Pittendrigh  pattern…. how ’bout this one? http://www.troutflies.com/pictures/flys/spent_caddis/spent_caddis.shtml – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I also like this fly better than a traditional EHC but I like an EHC with no hackle in the body and a traditional hackle, full but slightly undersized, best. I’ve always like the pattern you describe too, Willi, but I’ve never thought of it as simply a variant EHC.  I’m pretty sure it has a name of its own but that name escapes me.  Anybody? Wolfgang  I think this style was first made popular by Ralph Cutter and  his e/c caddis http://www.troutflies.com/go.mv?ID=e/c and  Bob Brooks Headlight caddis http://www.troutflies.com/go.mv?ID=headlite The above patterns are similar to the Flat Caddis Pittendrigh described. The pattern I was describing may have a name, but it evolved for me from a pattern described by Wright that from what I remember, he called a Skittering or Fluttering Caddis. He used spade hackle tips for the wings (some other tiers used mink hairs) that were tied in in three bunches. These materials are hard to get and the wing was hard to tie "right" so the fly would have action and good flotation. I substituted elk/deer hair for the wing. Over time, I lengthened the wing and used more turns of hackle but with a hackle one size smaller than "usual." This makes for a fly that skitters and hops on the surface very easily. Willi I’ve been tying caddis in this style for nearly twenty years and the idea was not original.  It was taught to me by the Malignant Dwarf who, if memory serves, learned it from someone else when he began twenty or more years before.   Sorry Harry, but what I’m thinking of (and what I believe Willi is describing) doesn’t look much like either of the flies on the pages you cited. Wolfgang

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  Anyway one thing led to another. I mentioned to him I first showed   the Flat Caddis to Gary LaFontaine in 1981, at a fly fishing demonstration   Gary put on at Dave Kumlein’s Bozeman Orvis shop. Gary liked that fly,   and offered to ‘help me get it published.’   In retrospect, I was a fool not to take him up on that. IMO, it just a matter of marketing in terms of how a "new" fly name gets recognized and is largely just an ego thing. It seems to me that it is the person responsible for making a particular pattern popular that gets the naming "right", not necessarily the "first" person to tie it. IMO, there are very few unique flies that come out. Most are just minor variations. With the number of tiers out there, virtually all of these variations have been tried by some tiers. Not to criticize your pattern, but I find it highly unlikely that you were the first person to use the elk hair tag as a post for a parachute. Actually, I could give a shit and would be happy to call it the pittendrigh flat wing caddis. Your reaction reminds me of Andy Kim becoming pissed off because other people were using a thread body for their midge nymphs and calling them something other than "Yong" something. Willi

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  Your right I was looking at the  Pittendrigh  pattern…. how ’bout   this one?   http://www.troutflies.com/pictures/flys/spent_caddis/spent_caddis.shtml That’s the right "style". I like a skinnier body, shorter denser hackle and a longer wing. Willi

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Gary put on at Dave Kumlein’s Bozeman Orvis shop. Gary liked that fly, and offered to ‘help me get it published.’ In retrospect, I was a fool not to take him up on that. Your reaction reminds me of Andy Kim becoming pissed off because other people were using a thread body for their midge nymphs and calling them something other than "Yong" something. Willi, I’ve never read that sort of atitude into Sandy’s posts, and don’t really see it in this one. Sandy puts up detailed patterns and tying instructions for basically altruistic reasons (as far as I can tell). I have always appreciated his posts and his ROFF presence. To me his comment above was a simple honest statement of having had a chance to accept help from a very well-known person and for some reason passing it up.

Yeah you’re right, I over reacted and apologize to Sandy. I also value his input here and on ROFFT and think that he does have some very innovative ideas especially in his use of foam. I was on Andy Kim’s website the other night and read his rants and……. The naming of flies and credit for designing them has always seemed like   a weird thing to me. It seems to me to be more fame or ego or money or advertising related than substance. There are very few truly new patterns. Most are just SLIGHT modifications of other patterns being used. EVERY tier that has been tying for any length of time routinely ties his own patterns whether purposeful or inadvertent. Few patterns remain true to the original. More significant to me is when someone comes up with the idea for incorporating new materials into a fly or coming up with new techniques for tying or creating a new style of fly. But who knows who was the first person to use CDC on a fly or beadheads or foam or epoxy or who was the first to use a parachute hackle or dubbing twist or ……. If some famous person in the golden retriever world liked your work and offered to put a plug in for you, wouldn’t you feel the same way?  

No Willi

Response:

…. how ’bout this one? http://www.troutflies.com/pictures/flys/spent_caddis/spent_caddis.shtml

Yep, that’s the one I had in mind.  Interesting body in the photo.  Herl? Wolfgang

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Here is a variation using CDC http://www.troutflies.com/rofft/cdc/downwing.shtml – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   Your right I was looking at the  Pittendrigh  pattern…. how ’bout   this one?   http://www.troutflies.com/pictures/flys/spent_caddis/spent_caddis.shtml That’s the right "style". I like a skinnier body, shorter denser hackle and a longer wing. Willi

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Here is a variation using CDC http://www.troutflies.com/rofft/cdc/downwing.shtml

Tie that in black and you just might have a winner for the Bighorn.

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I do tie it in black, I would show you ‘cepting my new DC has not made it to my door. I made the mistake of buying it over the net from what c/net describes as 4 star rated seller(good rating). I did get one after 10 days, plugged  it in and the LED read "system error". The manual says send back to Nikon if this error shows up. Back to the seller it went…now they tell me all of the Nikons they have are defective… I  asked for my money back after three weeks of  hassles and BS. I do not believe a thing these dudes say now , pity I have spent hula bucks with them in the past. No more, the sales manager would not even return my calls. BuyRiteDigital….beware – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Here is a variation using CDC http://www.troutflies.com/rofft/cdc/downwing.shtml Tie that in black and you just might have a winner for the Bighorn.

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…. how ’bout this one? http://www.troutflies.com/pictures/flys/spent_caddis/spent_caddis.shtml Yep, that’s the one I had in mind.  Interesting body in the photo.  Herl? Wolfgang

Yep that be herl… you should reinforce the stuff though, rope it, or a thread rib. I find this bug works well on the Yellowstone for some reason. Cutts eat it, but then, they eat lots of things most of the time

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…..Herl? Yep that be herl… you should reinforce the stuff though, rope it, or a thread rib. I find this bug works well on the Yellowstone for some reason. Cutts eat it, but then, they eat lots of things most of the time

Very interesting.  Peacock herl is fascinating stuff.  There are many materials with a vast range of uses in fly tying, but peacock herl is a true standout among them.  It is the only material I know of which virtually guarantees that flies incorporating it will catch fish……there’s just something magic about it.  I have never encountered a fly using peacock herl that is not a good fish catcher. That said, I find it a bit odd to see it in a dry fly.  Herl, by its very nature, floats like a brick.  Unlike many feathers, it is not the least bit hydrophobic…..quite the contrary, it wicks up water so effectively that it is difficult to make it float, even with the best of floatants. Never having seen this fly in action, I would suspect that the wing stays on the surface while the body is submerged.  While this sort of arrangement often makes it hard to keep a fly floating at all, thus causing no end of frustration, it is often VERY appealing to fish.  My own favorite Pass Lake works on the same principle.  I tie it with a chenille body (equally problematic in dry flies) which will occasionally allow the fly to sit on the surface for a short while but inevitably causes the entire body to sink through the meniscus, leaving the wing (at best) to keep the whole damned thing from sinking.  Both trout and panfish frequently find this irresistible. Wolfgang

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Question:

Has anyone tried 9X tippet material?  Is it really more beneficial than 8X (or even 7X)?  Or is it just a ploy to get us to buy more spools? —

Response:

Has anyone tried 9X tippet material?  Is it really more beneficial than 8X (or even 7X)?  Or is it just a ploy to get us to buy more spools?

Well, it’s thinner and more flexible, all else being the same.  But manufacturers fudge the numbers, so one company’s 5x is another’s 6x. Personally I use 11x – you know, for the sporting aspect of it.

Response:

Has anyone tried 9X tippet material?  Is it really more beneficial than 8X (or even 7X)?  Or is it just a ploy to get us to buy more spools?

I use 9X leaders the following way: 1) cut off leader at butt 2) tie on 2X, 4X, and 6X to create taper 3) tie on fly Research shows I break off far fewer fish on 9X tippet this way.  :) — HTH, Tim

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   Has anyone tried 9X tippet material?  Is it really more beneficial than 8X  (or even 7X)?  Or is it just a ploy to get us to buy more spools?       I use 9X leaders the following way:   1) cut off leader at butt   2) tie on 2X, 4X, and 6X to create taper   3) tie on fly     Research shows I break off far fewer fish on 9X tippet this way.  :) What are you fishing for that you feel you need 9X tippet? Willi

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  Has anyone tried 9X tippet material?  Is it really more beneficial than 8X  (or even 7X)?  Or is it just a ploy to get us to buy more spools?   I use 9X leaders the following way:   1) cut off leader at butt   2) tie on 2X, 4X, and 6X to create taper   3) tie on fly   Research shows I break off far fewer fish on 9X tippet this way.  :) What are you fishing for that you feel you need 9X tippet?

I don’t. That was the point of my reply. I use mainly 6X, but sometimes 7X for more calm, clear water presentation. Most of the flies I use are #20 or larger so the finer tippet isn’t normally needed. — TL, Tim

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Personally I use 11x – you know, for the sporting aspect of it.

Certainly eliminates any drag, but you lose a lot of fish. — Rusty Hook Laramie, Wyoming

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That’s the gist of the question.  Why do you need it and when would you use it?  I break off enough fish using 7X.  I’m still debating the use of 8X and now they come out with 9X and … get this…. 10X!  I saw it on a web site recently. — | |

|   |  Has anyone tried 9X tippet material?  Is it really more beneficial | than 8X |  (or even 7X)?  Or is it just a ploy to get us to buy more spools? |   |   |   I use 9X leaders the following way: |   1) cut off leader at butt |   2) tie on 2X, 4X, and 6X to create taper |   3) tie on fly |   |   Research shows I break off far fewer fish on 9X tippet this way.  :) | | | What are you fishing for that you feel you need 9X tippet? | | Willi |

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I’m still debating the use of 8X and now they come out with 9X and … get this…. 10X!  I saw it on a web site recently.

I’d be curious to know the diameter of 10X or 11X. I did measure some 9x once, and it measured .0027, which is exactly .0003 less than 8x.  Hardly a significant difference. I’ll bet that 10X and 11X would measure somewhere around .0024/.0025. Using the standard X designations, 9X would measure .002, 10X .001, and 11X at a very stealthy .000. George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

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Personally I use 11x – you know, for the sporting aspect of it. Certainly eliminates any drag, but you lose a lot of fish.

Never lost one yet!  ’course, haven’t hooked any either.

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Looks like you got some thin 9X.  The Classic and Custom flyshop web page has 9X and 10 X Varivas Tippet at 0.0028 and 0.0026, respectively.  The same chart rates them at 1.5 lb and 1.2 lb test.  For comparison, their 8 X is 0.003 at 1.8 lb test. —

| I’m still debating the use of 8X and | now they come out with 9X and … get this…. 10X!  I saw it on a web site | recently. | | I’d be curious to know the diameter of 10X or 11X. I did measure some 9x once, | and it measured .0027, which is exactly .0003 less than 8x.  Hardly a | significant difference. I’ll bet that 10X and 11X would measure somewhere | around .0024/.0025. Using the standard X designations, 9X would measure .002, | 10X .001, and 11X at a very stealthy .000. | | | George Adams | | "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was | worth the comin’ down." | ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

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Looks like you got some thin 9X.  The Classic and Custom flyshop web page has 9X and 10 X Varivas Tippet at 0.0028 and 0.0026, respectively.  The same chart rates them at 1.5 lb and 1.2 lb test.  For comparison, their 8 X is 0.003 at 1.8 lb test.

So the spread from 8X to 10X is a whopping .0004. That’s probably outside of their normal manufacturing tolance. I have seen a lot of tippet material in the 4X/5X range that deviates from nominal by .0005. George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

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9x ! I can’t convince myself to 6x (well, maybe once in a while if I’m fooling with the 2 wt) jh

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Looks like you got some thin 9X.  The Classic and Custom flyshop web page has 9X and 10 X Varivas Tippet at 0.0028 and 0.0026, respectively.  The same chart rates them at 1.5 lb and 1.2 lb test.  For comparison, their 8 X is 0.003 at 1.8 lb test. So the spread from 8X to 10X is a whopping .0004. That’s probably outside of their normal manufacturing tolance. I have seen a lot of tippet material in the 4X/5X range that deviates from nominal by .0005. George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

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What are you fishing for that you feel you need 9X tippet?

    Neon tetras. Not just any neon tetras though, he’s getting his name in the record book.

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What are you fishing for that you feel you need 9X tippet?

You’ve never heard of The 69 Club ? 6# fish on 9X tippet and when you’re done the fish is licked. Your pal, TBone

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What are you fishing for that you feel you need 9X tippet?

The Great North American Smart-Assed Reply… TC, R – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Willi

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     Looks like you got some thin 9X.  The Classic and Custom flyshop web page  has 9X and 10 X Varivas Tippet at 0.0028 and 0.0026, respectively. The same  chart rates them at 1.5 lb and 1.2 lb test.  For comparison, their 8 X is  0.003 at 1.8 lb test.       So the spread from 8X to 10X is a whopping .0004. That’s probably outside of   their normal manufacturing tolance. I have seen a lot of tippet material in the   4X/5X range that deviates from nominal by .0005. Sounds like a gimmick to me. All other X designations from X4 down to 8X    vary progressively by .001. Their 9X should be 8.2X and their 10X – 8.4X. Willi

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<Splork Clark (Who always prefered 68,…. "You go for it and I’ll owe you 1)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What are you fishing for that you feel you need 9X tippet? You’ve never heard of The 69 Club ? 6# fish on 9X tippet and when you’re done the fish is licked. Your pal, TBone

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Sounds like a gimmick to me. All other X designations from X4 down to 8X   vary progressively by .001. Their 9X should be 8.2X and their 10X – 8.4X.

Exactly……basically it sounds like all repackaged 8X. George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

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What are you fishing for that you feel you need 9X tippet? The Great North American Smart-Assed Reply…

A measured judgement from the master of the genre. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

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aspect of it.  Only 11x? Outhere in Kansas we take the big bass on 15x tied to an old Hogan Apex 4 iron with a piece of popcorn as a indicator with a Velvetta dropper. Best Wishes -Jeff

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sporting aspect of it.  Only 11x? Outhere in Kansas we take the big bass on 15x tied to an old Hogan Apex 4 iron with a piece of popcorn as a indicator with a Velvetta dropper. Best Wishes -Jeff

We’ve invented a 20X tippet material but can’t market it.  The reason is, after we spool it up with a thousand yards worth, the customer can’t find the end of it. Is this over-engineering? George Gehrke

Response:

I have 20 spools of 30X for sale. Due to cutbacks we have been unable to obtain suitable packaging so these spools may just "appear" to be empty 4X and 5X spools. Anyone interested in purchasing can do so by contacting me. Each spool holds 50 meters of 30X flurocarbon and they are available as a bulk lot for only $50. Make checks payable to me please. Clark

Response:

I’m still debating the use of 8X and now they come out with 9X and … get this…. 10X!  I saw it on a web site recently. I’d be curious to know the diameter of 10X or 11X. I did measure some 9x once, and it measured .0027, which is exactly .0003 less than 8x.

Yeah, but the 8x from the same company was probably .0036.

Response:

Looks like you got some thin 9X.  The Classic and Custom flyshop web page has 9X and 10 X Varivas Tippet at 0.0028 and 0.0026, respectively.

How silly.

Response:

sporting aspect of it.  Only 11x? Outhere in Kansas we take the big bass on 15x tied to an old Hogan Apex 4 iron with a piece of popcorn as a indicator with a Velvetta dropper. Best Wishes -Jeff

Since you’re using forged blades, I assume your line is silk.  I’m sure Hogan would approve, since "The feel of a [fish on silk line], travels up the [rod], into your hands and into your heart."

Response:

Question:

You guys REALLY need to get out more. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -<<If you want to cast, but don’t feel like stringing up to cast in the snow of your yard.  Which has got to bad for the old flyline anyways, take a suitable length of 1/8" dowel (you can get this at the local hardware store.)  Usually about 2 to 3 feet.  Then take a length of backing, about 2x the length of your dowel, and tie it on one end. Instant fly casting gear that can be cast in your living room, without spending a whole lot of money. Sounds like the perfect thing for fishing the aquarium.

Response:

<<If you want to cast, but don’t feel like stringing up to cast in the snow of your yard.  Which has got to bad for the old flyline anyways, take a suitable length of 1/8" dowel (you can get this at the local hardware store.)  Usually about 2 to 3 feet.  Then take a length of backing, about 2x the length of your dowel, and tie it on one end. Instant fly casting gear that can be cast in your living room, without spending a whole lot of money. Sounds like the perfect thing for fishing the aquarium.

Good idea. My guppies seem to be favoring a size 28 Adams, right now. Tim? Got any recipes?

Response:

Sounds like the perfect thing for fishing the aquarium.

Or catfishing. For cats, that is. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

If you want to cast, but don’t feel like stringing up to cast in the snow of your yard.  Which has got to bad for the old flyline anyways, take a suitable length of 1/8" dowel (you can get this at the local hardware store.)  Usually about 2 to 3 feet.  Then take a length of backing, about 2x the length of your dowel, and tie it on one end. Instant fly casting gear that can be cast in your living room, without spending a whole lot of money.

Response:

Question:

Hi Corey,  have a look at these URL

Question:

Beautifully shadowboxed along with a signature card. Limited numbers. $59 includes shipping. Can e-mail for a picture that I cand send back e-mail quickly. Bruce

Response:

Monday, August 17, 1998     4:26:33 AM Please, could you tell me what a Patriot Fly is?  Perhaps a short description  I have not heard of this pattern and it has piqued my interest. adam Small Stream Fly Fishing http://www.smallstreams.com

Response:

It depends on what country you are from.  It has the colors in your flag. — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-Mail Selling my Fly Fishing Books Go to: http://users.ccnet.com/~emh – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Monday, August 17, 1998     4:26:33 AM Please, could you tell me what a Patriot Fly is?  Perhaps a short description  I have not heard of this pattern and it has piqued my interest. adam Small Stream Fly Fishing http://www.smallstreams.com

Response:

Please, could you tell me what a Patriot Fly is?  Perhaps a short description  I have not heard of this pattern and it has piqued my interest.

Hook            TMC 7999, Mustad 36890, sizes2-6 Thread          Black 6/0 prewaxed Tail            Red hackle fibres Rib             Fine oval silver tinsel Body            Yellow floss, thin Hackle          Vivid blue hackle, soft Wing            White polar bear hair or calftail. Originator  Frank Amato — Bill

Response:

using the Patriot in tandem with a nymph pattern.  Unfortunately he doesn’t decribe in any detail the set-up of this rig.  Can anyone help? RWE

Hi Rich, I have heard some say they tie a clinch knot (improved) right to the bend of the hook of the dry to make the dropper. I have never tried this myself, but it seems like a workable solution.  I have, however, used the Patriot and found it to be a good searching pattern. Tie one up and give it a try next time out. Good luck, Dennis Haftel

Response:

Hi Vince, you’re dead right. it is totally different.  I’m not familiar with U.S. flies. and I found the one I described in an American book. Does the Patriot vary from state to state, and why does it vary so much? Tried to help. but obviously way off mark! — Bill

I don’t know the answer to your question, Bill.  I tried to phone Charlie Meck, who lives here, but he now has an unlisted phone number.  I tried email and it was returned, "address unknown."  I’ll try phoning George Harvey, who also lives here, to see if he knows Charlie’s phone number. If I can get any information, I’ll post it. Meanwhile, can you post the author and title of the book in which you found the Patriot pattern you posted? vince norris

Response:

Meck also describes in his book MID-ATLANTIC TROUT STREAMS & THEIR HATCHES using the Patriot in tandem with a nymph pattern.  Unfortunately he doesn’t decribe in any detail the set-up of this rig.  Can anyone help? RWE – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Vince, you’re dead right. it is totally different.  I’m not familiar with U.S. flies. and I found the one I described in an American book. Does the Patriot vary from state to state, and why does it vary so much? Tried to help. but obviously way off mark! — Bill I don’t know the answer to your question, Bill.  I tried to phone Charlie Meck, who lives here, but he now has an unlisted phone number.  I tried email and it was returned, "address unknown."  I’ll try phoning George Harvey, who also lives here, to see if he knows Charlie’s phone number. If I can get any information, I’ll post it. Meanwhile, can you post the author and title of the book in which you found the Patriot pattern you posted? vince norris

Response:

Hi Vince, you’re dead right. it is totally different.  I’m not familiar

with U.S. flies. and I found the one I described in an American book. Does the Patriot vary from state to state, and why does it vary so much? Because of the damned 10th Amendment to the US Constitution, each of the states is a semi-sovereign entity and can have "their" version of the Patriot be whatever colors they choose.  The Federal government is helpless to do anything about this situation as constitutionally, they are restricted to coining money and designing and deploying big things that go boom.     We have historically however, had worse problems than with 10th Amendment issues than this one….:)

Response:

Where (not too specific please…  The state will do) do you fish this fly?  I have had success with it in northern/central New Jersey. Dennis Haftel

Check that…. Just got another look at your e-mail address. You guys gonna play Rutgers this year??  Don’t have a schedule!! D. Haftel

Response:

writes – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Please, could you tell me what a Patriot Fly is?  Perhaps a short description  I have not heard of this pattern and it has piqued my interest. Hook            TMC 7999, Mustad 36890, sizes2-6 Thread          Black 6/0 prewaxed Tail            Red hackle fibres Rib             Fine oval silver tinsel Body            Yellow floss, thin Hackle          Vivid blue hackle, soft Wing            White polar bear hair or calftail. Originator  Frank Amato The pattern Charlie presents on pages 197-8 of his  book, _Patterns, Hatches, Tactics, and Trout_, is entirely different from the one submitted above: Hook:    Mustad 94833, sizes #10-18 Thread:  Red Tails:   Brown hackle fibers Body:    Smolt blue Krystal Flash wound around the shank.         Wind some of the red thread in the midle of the shank,         similar to the Royal Coachman. Wings:   White impala or calf tail, divided. Hackle:  Brown vince norris

Hi Vince, you’re dead right. it is totally different.  I’m not familiar with U.S. flies. and I found the one I described in an American book. Does the Patriot vary from state to state, and why does it vary so much? Tried to help. but obviously way off mark! — Bill

Response:

The pattern Charlie presents on pages 197-8 of his  book, _Patterns, Hatches, Tactics, and Trout_, is entirely different from the one submitted above: Hook:    Mustad 94833, sizes #10-18 Thread:  Red Tails:   Brown hackle fibers Body:    Smolt blue Krystal Flash wound around the shank.          Wind some of the red thread in the midle of the shank,          similar to the Royal Coachman. Wings:   White impala or calf tail, divided. Hackle:  Brown vince norris

Hi Vince, This is the version that I am familiar with also.  I have tied and fished it and it has produced when there was no hatch, or I couldn’t figure out what to use. It also works really well on panfish!   Where (not too specific please…  The state will do) do you fish this fly?  I have had success with it in northern/central New Jersey. Dennis Haftel

Response:

Please, could you tell me what a Patriot Fly is?  Perhaps a short description  I have not heard of this pattern and it has piqued my interest. Hook            TMC 7999, Mustad 36890, sizes2-6 Thread          Black 6/0 prewaxed Tail            Red hackle fibres Rib             Fine oval silver tinsel Body            Yellow floss, thin Hackle          Vivid blue hackle, soft Wing            White polar bear hair or calftail. Originator  Frank Amato

The pattern Charlie presents on pages 197-8 of his  book, _Patterns, Hatches, Tactics, and Trout_, is entirely different from the one submitted above: Hook:    Mustad 94833, sizes #10-18 Thread:  Red Tails:   Brown hackle fibers Body:    Smolt blue Krystal Flash wound around the shank.          Wind some of the red thread in the midle of the shank,          similar to the Royal Coachman. Wings:   White impala or calf tail, divided. Hackle:  Brown vince norris

Response:

Question:

Hi: hope to be in Key West 8/16 and 17.  I’m looking for a guide to take me inshore flyfishing.  I’ve been to Belize many times, but never to KW. would appreciate any suggestions and would also like to know if it is worth it in the summer heat.  I don’t mind the heat, but are the fish there? Adam

Hi Adam, I would call Nat Ragland as he will give you the straight scoop. 305/743-5806 Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Response:

Try Florida Keys On-Line Guide. They have information about everything you could imagine in the keys.  I found it using Yahoo but you might be able to get the URL from any Chamber of Commerce in the Keys (I think there are 3 or 4) – all of them have 800 numbers as well.

: Hi: : hope to be in Key West 8/16 and 17.  I’m looking for a guide to take me : inshore flyfishing.  I’ve been to Belize many times, but never to KW. : would appreciate any suggestions and would also like to know if it is : worth it in the summer heat.  I don’t mind the heat, but are the fish : there? : Adam : : Hi Adam, : I would call Nat Ragland as he will give you the straight scoop. 305/743-5806 : Bill Kiene : Kiene’s Fly Shop : Sacramento,CA,USA : 800/4000FLY — Lori Dubay

Response:

Hi: hope to be in Key West 8/16 and 17.  I’m looking for a guide to take me inshore flyfishing.  I’ve been to Belize many times, but never to KW. would appreciate any suggestions and would also like to know if it is worth it in the summer heat.  I don’t mind the heat, but are the fish there? Adam

Response:

Question:

How does the action of these two rods compare? Any opinions? The Sage sure looks nicer.                                 Bob

Hi Bob For my casting style I prefer the the Sage RPL. To me the Loomis feels a bit non responsive compared to the Sage — the Loomis feels dead and the Sage feels alive putting it another way. I’m sure there are those who disagree but that’s why there are different rod manufacturers. Any way, Take care & … — Tight Lines ….. Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products On line catalog – tips & tricks at: http://www.btsflyfishing.com

Response:

How does the action of these two rods compare? Any opinions? The Sage sure looks nicer.                                 Bob

Response:

How does the action of these two rods compare? Any opinions? The Sage sure looks nicer.                            Bob

Hello Bob         I can’t speak for the RPL. I can give you my opinion on the IMX. I had a 10′ IMX made for me recently.  It has action that is a little on the stiff side of medium. IMHO it is the best rod I have ever cast a line with. It takes less wrist effort to cast 50′ of line than it does to stir my coffee in the morning         Did have a chance to try a friends Sage on the weekend. It was not an RPL though. It was nice enough, but I still prefer mine. Take Care and Smash Barbs Joel Sampson Micro Computer Co-ordinator Computer Services Saint Mary’s University 923 Robie Street Halifax, Nova Scotia (p) (902) 420-5880 (f) (902) 496-8103

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you’re looking to buy an IMX be aware that Loomis no longer makes this blank.  It has been replaced by the GL4.  I was told (can anyone out there confirm?) that the reason they ditched the IMX was because of the number of breakages that model line had. One other thing: Sage does offer an unconditional warranty on their rods. Loomis does not.  Someone that I sold a Loomis blank to recently told me it cost him $40 to get the tip section replaced, in addition to the shipping costs.  I’ve broken two Sage rods in the last 3 years, and both times they charged me only for shipping. How does the action of these two rods compare? Any opinions? The Sage sure looks nicer.                               Bob

Hi Bob I blew up three IMX rods, one while casting and two while fighting fish. I don’t know if I was just unlucky or not but was given a Sage to try in that same time frame and have not fished a Loomis since. Take care & … — Tight Lines ….. Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products On line catalog – tips & tricks at: http://www.btsflyfishing.com

Response:

If you’re looking to buy an IMX be aware that Loomis no longer makes this blank.  It has been replaced by the GL4.  I was told (can anyone out there confirm?) that the reason they ditched the IMX was because of the number of breakages that model line had. One other thing: Sage does offer an unconditional warranty on their rods. Loomis does not.  Someone that I sold a Loomis blank to recently told me it cost him $40 to get the tip section replaced, in addition to the shipping costs.  I’ve broken two Sage rods in the last 3 years, and both times they charged me only for shipping. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How does the action of these two rods compare? Any opinions? The Sage sure looks nicer.                            Bob

Response:

Easy. One has a lifetime,unconditional warranty, the other spends gazillions on beautiful magazine ads instead.

Response:

  I have several Loomis rods.  My first IMX, a 6# purchased shortly after they were released, broke repeatedly and was replaced without charge other than my shipping it back to them.  It took three trys but has now been solid for three years.   I believe the top of the line is now the GMX (if I have my alphabet straight).  It has a softer tip than the older IMX and is a very sweet rod in the four piece #4 and #6 sizes.   Most Loomis rods have a dull gray finish.  I happen to like the look, but the important question is whether it’s less visable to the trout when waved over the water on a sunny day. — Lloyd Fortney http://www.phy.duke.edu/~fortney/ has links to my garden, flower, flyfishing, and travel JPEG images as well as teaching, research, and stuff like that

Response:

: Easy. One has a lifetime,unconditional warranty, the other spends : gazillions on beautiful magazine ads instead. I don’t know about this… The Sage posters are among the prettiest photos of fly fishing I have seen.  Must cost a pretty big coin. And what’s the real deal on those posters… just about every fly shop I’ve visited in the West claims the owner is the fisherman in the photo on the wall. — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

Response:

: Easy. One has a lifetime,unconditional warranty, the other spends : gazillions on beautiful magazine ads instead. I don’t know about this… The Sage posters are among the prettiest photos of fly fishing I have seen.  Must cost a pretty big coin.

The Sage ads usually have some real nice photos as do the Winston ads.  Personally, I like the Scott "lifting power" ad with the jet skier and the one with the guy practicing his flycasting from atop a building in Manhatten. John Fereira

Response:

If you’re looking to buy an IMX be aware that Loomis no longer makes this blank.  It has been replaced by the GL4.  I was told (can anyone out there confirm?) that the reason they ditched the IMX was because of the number of breakages that model line had. One other thing: Sage does offer an unconditional warranty on their rods. Loomis does not.  Someone that I sold a Loomis blank to recently told me it cost him $40 to get the tip section replaced, in addition to the shipping costs.  I’ve broken two Sage rods in the last 3 years, and both times they charged me only for shipping.

Catch, How’d you break your Sages? I also had heard of very high breakage rates but that was years ago when several manufacturers, of which Loomis was one, were racing to gain market share by bringing out rods made with new materials. I was under the impression that the bulk of their problems had been solved although over the years I have talked to only one angler astream using Loomis (I live in the east where they have a smaller presence) and he fished it as if it was made of crystal instead of graphite because of a previous fishing breakage and the feeling after talking to Loomis that they would not replace it again. It did not appear to be a very enjoyable fishing experience for him. The original post related to casting rather than durability and from comparative reviews I have seen the Loomis does offer a different casting experience due to its stiffness. I know there are those who "Love my Loomis" or "Wouldn’t trade my Sage for anything" but is there anyone here who has used both and is willing to offer up an opinion, hopefully unbiased with thoughts, on the casting merits of both? I have a pre-new materials war Sage closet rod (or more charitably – a nymphing rod) and finances permitting, am interested in upgrading it to a stream rod but would like to hear about the casting virtues and vices of the newer rods. Thanks Tim

Response:

Among other rods, I own a Loomis 10′ 6wt IMX and a Sage 9′6" RPL 6wt. These are my steelheading rods. The Loomis just happens to fit my casting style better than the Sage, but the Sage (which I built from a blem blank) was needed as a backup since the Loomis was very brittle and I broke it more times than I like to admit.   Except for one time when I broke it by accidentally hitting a branch with the tip while casting and one time catching it in the door to my PU canopy, all the other breaks seemed to be the result of overstressing the rod during casting. Regardless of the reason, which I always disclosed, Loomis always replaced the rod with no questions asked and at no cost – even shipping. The last time it broke,the turn around time was only three days. I think that the last one they sent me is a slightly different composition, not that it casts any differently, but it has endured 2 1/2 years of heavy fishing without breaking ( a new personal record ). Most knowledgeable casters who have watched me cast ( for steelhead on big waters) tell me that my style seems to overstress the rod. Bob Weinberger – La Grande, OR —

Response:

Among other rods, I own a Loomis 10′ 6wt IMX and a Sage 9′6" RPL 6wt. These are my steelheading rods. The Loomis just happens to fit my casting style better than the Sage, but the Sage (which I built from a blem blank) was needed as a backup since the Loomis was very brittle and I broke it more times than I like to admit. Bob Weinberger – La Grande, OR —

I have a 9′6" 6 wgt RPL which has seen better years.  After two sets of guides and reworking of the handle, I decided that it was time to build a new one.  To my great regret, I discovered that they no longer make the 9′6" RPL blank.  The RPL-X is vile.   I gnash my teeth… This is a great steelhead and searun rod.  Good float tubing rod as well. Too bad you can’t get one anymore.

Response:

I have a 3 wt IMX and a 5 wt Sage RPL. Although I grab the Sage first when going to the stream, I use the IMX often enough to like it as a distance casting rod although I use a 4 wt line. It dosen’t have the line speed that the RPL has but it takes very little effort to cast. On a 2+ day trip I take both but I only use the 3 wt for dry fly. If push came to shove, it would be the Sage. — "The true Angler is content to fish alone" Brian Di Carlo – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you’re looking to buy an IMX be aware that Loomis no longer makes this blank.  It has been replaced by the GL4.  I was told (can anyone out there confirm?) that the reason they ditched the IMX was because of the number of breakages that model line had. One other thing: Sage does offer an unconditional warranty on their rods. Loomis does not.  Someone that I sold a Loomis blank to recently told me it cost him $40 to get the tip section replaced, in addition to the shipping costs.  I’ve broken two Sage rods in the last 3 years, and both times they charged me only for shipping. Catch, How’d you break your Sages? I also had heard of very high breakage rates but that was years ago when several manufacturers, of which Loomis was one, were racing to gain market share by bringing out rods made with new materials. I was under the impression that the bulk of their problems had been solved although over the years I have talked to only one angler astream using Loomis (I live in the east where they have a smaller presence) and he fished it as if it was made of crystal instead of graphite because of a previous fishing breakage and the feeling after talking to Loomis that they would not replace it again. It did not appear to be a very enjoyable fishing experience for him. The original post related to casting rather than durability and from comparative reviews I have seen the Loomis does offer a different casting experience due to its stiffness. I know there are those who "Love my Loomis" or "Wouldn’t trade my Sage for anything" but is there anyone here who has used both and is willing to offer up an opinion, hopefully unbiased with thoughts, on the casting merits of both? I have a pre-new materials war Sage closet rod (or more charitably – a nymphing rod) and finances permitting, am interested in upgrading it to a stream rod but would like to hear about the casting virtues and vices of the newer rods. Thanks Tim

Response:

I know there are those who "Love my Loomis" or "Wouldn’t trade my Sage for anything" but is there anyone here who has used both and is willing to offer up an opinion, hopefully unbiased with thoughts, on the casting merits of both? I have

I can’t comment on the IMX.  My old beat-up RPL is great for shooting line half way accross a lake, but when it comes to laying down a gentle cast to spooky fish in shallow water, forget it.  The harder I try to be delicate, the harder it slaps the water.  Still, I like the rod. — -Wayne Trzyna

Response:

<<The harder I try to be delicate, the harder it slaps the water. The reason it slaps the water is because you are putting the power in too late.  Try pushing your thumb towards something on the far bank when you cast, so that the whole thing turns over before it touches down.  I also suspect you are overpowering the rod.  Get your timing right and you should be able to throw the whole flyline without hearing the rod "swish" at all. Hope this helps. William Daniel

Response:

<<I know there are those who "Love my Loomis" or "Wouldn’t trade my Sage for anything" but is there anyone here who has used both and is willing to offer up an opinion, hopefully unbiased with thoughts, on the casting merits of

both? You’ve picked the 2 best brands, IMO.  The old RPL’s are not as quick as the Loomis IMX, but these are being phased out as the new RPL+ rods come in – these are very fast, if that’s what you are after.  Frankly you pays your money and takes your choice.  I go for the Sages myself. William Daniel

Response:

<<I know there are those who "Love my Loomis" or "Wouldn’t trade my Sage for anything" but is there anyone here who has used both and is willing to offer up an opinion, hopefully unbiased with thoughts, on the casting merits of

both? Perhaps a better route would be for you to go cast the models that are suited for your needs and decide for yourself. I tried a Sage RPL for a 4 when they first came out. Caught a 7-1/2 lb rainbow on a #22 h.e. emerger on it. Sent the rod back because I didn’t care for it’s casting capabilities in close (under 30 ft). Ordered a Scott and have never looked back. Casts way better in close and is just fine for distance. Does that make the Scott better? Of course not. It’s better for me and the way I cast. Suggest you find a shop that carries the rods you’re interested in, describe your needs.  I suspect they will let you try out the rods. If the owner is really knowledgeable, stocks a variety of rods, and is a good listener (Harry Murray of Murray’s Fly Shop in Edinburgh, Va comes to mind.), it will be a short process. As for cost be sensible. If you make the right choice, you’ll be fishing it for many many years. A few bucks more for the rod you like could be well worth it over a decade or two or three. If you make the wrong one, it really doesn’t matter what the rod cost. Good luck. BP

Response:

Question:

Hi there.. I’m looking in to getting back into fly fishing (I used to do it a bit with my father a long time ago..).  Essentially, I have forgotten all that I was taught.. and I was wondering if anybody had suggestions on how I could best get back into the sport.. or what would be the best strategy for learning about the state of the sport nowadays? Thank you for whatever help you can give me.

     Assuming you live in Central Ontario, Bud Hoffman runs a good fly fishing school on the Beaver River, near Kimberley, Ont.  His number is/was 519 986-2351. Bud is a pretty level-headed guy, and easy to talk to and learn from.  The Izaak Walton Fly fishing Club can be reached at 905 855-5420.  It might help if you post what part of Ontario you fish. Good luck JIM WARD Twin Willow Farm "Home of good horses, fine whiskey and great wild trout"

Response:

Hi I suggest you contact the Federation of Fly Fishers at 406-585-7592 and find out the location of an affiliate club near you. Then join and learn from a new friend. At this time of year many club sponsor fly fishing classes in preparation for the season so you timing is right on. If there is no club near you, ask the FFF about their educational booklet "Introduction to Fly Fishing" It cost $2.00 plus S&H and gives a lot of good info. Other FFF educational booklet that would help are on casting, entomology, and beginning fly tying. Al Hi there.. I’m looking in to getting back into fly fishing (I used to do it a bit with my father a long time ago..).  Essentially, I have forgotten all that I was taught.. and I was wondering if anybody had suggestions on how I could best get back into the sport.. or what would be the best strategy for learning about the state of the sport nowadays? Thank you for whatever help you can give me.

Tight Lines ….. Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products http://www.btsflyfishing.com

Response:

Hi there.. I’m looking in to getting back into fly fishing (I used to do it a bit with my father a long time ago..).  Essentially, I have forgotten all that I was taught.. and I was wondering if anybody had suggestions on how I could best get back into the sport.. or what would be the best strategy for learning about the state of the sport nowadays? Thank you for whatever help you can give me.

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Hi there.. I’m looking in to getting back into fly fishing (I used to do it a bit with my father a long time ago..).  Essentially, I have forgotten all that I was taught.. and I was wondering if anybody had suggestions on how I could best get back into the sport.. or what would be the best strategy for learning about the state of the sport nowadays? Thank you for whatever help you can give me.

Hi One of the best ways is to learn from a friend and I think you will find a few of those on this group and the fly tying group as well. Also you might consider joining a local club. I suggest you contact the Federation of Fly Fishers at 406-585-7592 and get the contact person in a local club. Then you can join and learn from a friend. If you have a specific question please post to this group or check my tips and tricks section at my web site. I think the address is in my signature. Good luck and welcome to the best legal drug available; flyfishing. Tight Lines ….. Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products http://www.btsflyfishing.com

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I am looking for anyone that remembers an old lure called the Blue River Spinner . Its origin is believed to be in Southern Indiana and the maker from Shelbyville. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

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Being from southern Indiana and having spent forty years in the tackle industry to boot, I am sorry to say that I only recall the name but not any of the specifics about the lure itself. I will certainly research it for you and if I come up with anything, I will pass it along. Best Regards, I am looking for anyone that remembers an old lure called the Blue River Spinner . Its origin is believed to be in Southern Indiana and the maker from Shelbyville. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

         Trent Roberson            Rx F Fish  For Your Good Health, Fly Fish URL=http://www.xnet.com/~rxffish

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Question:

USUA: (301) 695 9100 P. O. Box 667 Frederick, MD 21705 Michael Bradford

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Be sure to join the USUA. They’ll send you a subscription to Ultralight Flying, where a lot of your interest will be eithe piqued or satisfied.

Can someone post the address or Phone # to USUA?? It’s probably in the FAQ, but I don’t know where that is either.. thanks.. Also,  I live near the ocean,  where the wind blows fairly steady but gusty. How much wind is acceptable to fly UL’s?   I hear alot about flying in places like Ohio, how about California next to the Pacific? Scott

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                                               ~~~~~ Don’t you dare! Post post post post!         Mark <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< Mark Crafts                                                   Melbourne FL       "You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough."

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Hello! <gosh what else to say right? Ever since I was a little kid laying on the front lawn looking at the jets with their vapor trails through binoculars, I’ve wanted to fly. One time I got the lucky chance of being taken up in a (ahem) Cessna and got to handle the controls for a few seconds while flying over the Sleeping Bear Sand Dunes on the coast of Lake Michigan. God I wanted to fly so bad after it, seeing the actual "mitten" of Michigan over the horizon during an unforgettable sunset with thunderclouds in silhouette about 50 miles away…Even flyed over an island I camped on as a Boy Scout about 16 miles into the Lake. Well meanwhile as I grew up and still am attending college for Electrical Engineering, I never forgot that experience. Like many of you I love to travel, it’s no problem at all to hop in the Buick and drive all over just to see what is out there (anybody relate?) So, I got an amateur radio license KB8DWF and then learned about the internet to *travel* to places remote so to speak… Well, as it may be I’ve been sitting on the ground for quite a while studying books and basically imagining flying ever since. Being a college student about ready to enter grad school, even over the time since I was 12 the memory of flying has never left. My airline tickets always are the window seat <grin. I need your help really bad. I guess you can say I’ve got the terminal case of that "flying bug" that never lets go after it bites. Reading about that guy earlier who took an emergency day off whilst stylin around the New England coast filled me with an exhilirating mental image like I was the passenger looking out for the first time. Heh "IMAX"…Even now writing this message it’s like I’m extremely frusturated not to own an ultralight myself to take out and enjoy the scenery. Labor day is approaching, it’s beautiful weather right now and there’s nothing more I’d like to do than "take off" for a day! This was the last straw I tell ya, went up to visit my grandfather earlier in the day, he lives near Higgins Lake where the water is crystal clear and the sand is white, and near an airport to boot. While I was getting skunked fishing in the pontoon boat here comes an ultralight for a wave and flyby. Guess which I’d rather be piloting. Get the picture <grin? OK, it costs some money to buy and operate a craft, and "rumor has it" that you don’t need any special certification? I’m about as itchy as a flea behind a dog’s ear to get up in the air. (pardon the expression!) If anyone can give me general advice, specific advice, lend me some insight on your experiences, and possibly what it costs for the thrills, I’d be gratified. College student, yes, but willing to work very very hard to earn enough for a future buy and fly. An ultralight at beckon’s call for ‘mergency vacations sure would be serious and welcome "braino draino" <grin to disrupt normal everyday life! Sorry about sounding like a gushing newbie, just really that enthusiastic about it. Not many things seem impressive to me, and this does so I’m going for it all the way! Hope I made everyone want to fly as much as I do right now!!! Best Wishes     =Aaron= — ——- Aaron Robins Midland, Michigan

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: ultralight myself to take out and enjoy the scenery. Labor day is                                                        ^^^^^ Sorry about that, I was so excited about flying that I put this in instead of Memorial Day. My apologies to Veterans, my grandfather was a Navy Yellowjacket in Pearl Harbor (on the white gas ship, the one that incinerates if hit) and by Uncle has many experiences in a Huey over Vietnam. No net-flames about either please thanks <smile Using the "family account" here but looking forward to hearing from fellow ultralight enthusiasts!! =Aaron=

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: Hello! <gosh what else to say right? : If anyone can give me general advice, specific advice, lend me some : insight on your experiences, and possibly what it costs for the thrills, : I’d be gratified. College student, yes, but willing to work very very : hard to earn enough for a future buy and fly. An ultralight at beckon’s : call for ‘mergency vacations sure would be serious and welcome "braino : draino" <grin to disrupt normal everyday life! : Sorry about sounding like a gushing newbie, just really that enthusiastic : about it. Not many things seem impressive to me, and this does so I’m going : for it all the way! : Hope I made everyone want to fly as much as I do right now!!! : Best Wishes     =Aaron= Aaron, I’ve been taking flight instruction from a USUA certified Advanced Flight Instructor for the last few weeks. I’m five hours into it, and my solo isn’t far away, I’m moving along more quickly than usual.  Generally you can figure on 10 to 12 hours of dual time with an instructor before soloing.  Then a couple hours of solo time and then the written test to become a certified ultralight pilot via the USUA. Instruction will cost between 45 and 60/hr. Instruction is NOT legally required to become an ultralight pilot, just as instruction isn’t legally required to join the crew of the space shuttle, but it is a GOOD IDEA. In fact flight instruction has been extremely rewarding, my instructor has made the learning enjoyable and efficient. We fly a Maxair Drifter XP503. My instructor has over 4000 hours experience in ULs. I have heard of other instructors who are not as good, and it’s important to shop around, not for price, but for you’re own assessment of the instructor’s experience and competence. While my instructor charges the top rate, the learning curve and his thoroughness have helped reduce the actual number of hours I’ve needed. Used ultralights of the 80’s tube and sail type run about $1500 – $2500 in this area (SW Florida) in restorable or flyable shape if you look hard. Better maintained and more current models will run $4000-$7000 for singles. New current singles will run $7000-$10,000. You can build singles in wood for $3500-$5500 new. Be sure to join the USUA. They’ll send you a subscription to Ultralight Flying, where a lot of your interest will be eithe piqued or satisfied. Steve — |   STEVE REDMOND   : Naval Architect: Sarasota, : Liveaboard : T100SE laptop

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