Question:

overloading a rod by one line wt is one of the oldest tricks in the book. You’ll do fine.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   Hi Walt,   Normally, if a reel is rated for a #5 outfit, it should hold a WF6F with   at   least 50 yds of quality 20# braided darcon backing.   There are exceptions, though.  I recently bought an Okuma Sierra reel for my   3 weight rod.  It is supposedly sized for 4 and 5 weight lines, but it is a   great deal smaller than the Orvis reel I bought about the same time.    Even   with the 3 weight WF line there is only room for about 50 yards of backing. That’s weird. I have the same reel loaded with a 5 weight WF and I have at least that much backing on it. You got one of those fat 555 lines on it?

I’ve got Teeny WF 3.  Don’t know remember any more about it than that.   I just went outside and stripped all the line off.  It turns out that I actually have about 75 yards of backing, but it’s 15 lb. Spectra or Spider wire or one of those new super strong small diameter lines instead of the braided dacron I’ve used in the past.  As a matter of fact, I bought this stuff because I was concerned about not having enough backing. The backing line on this Okuma Sierra (rated at 4/5 wt.) mics at .011 inch as compared to .015 for the braided dacron on my Orvis Rocky Mountain (rated at 5/6).  Of course, the dial caliper I used to check them mashes the line a bit, but the difference is still significant, I think.  There’s 120 yards of backing on the Orvis compared to 75 on the Okuma.  The diameter inside the posts is 2.538 for the Okuma and 3.025 (estimated because I couldn’t quite get the calipers inside the four posts on this reel) on the Orvis.  Inside width of the spool in .680 for the Okuma and .790 for the Orvis.  Both reels have an exposed rim, roughly 2.90 for the Okuma and 3.475 for the Orvis.  These comparisons may not read like there’s a great deal of difference between them, but visually the difference is quite dramatic and the Okuma reel has about as much line on it as is possible without interference while the Orvis could easily take another hundred yards of the finer backing, and this with a 5 wt. DT on it.  In short, the difference is startling; much greater than the difference in rating would suggest.  The Orvis reel appears about typical of the size I’d expect for a 5/6 wt., while the Okuma reel is tiny for a 4/5. Wolfgang

Response:

    Hi Walt,     Normally, if a reel is rated for a #5 outfit, it should hold a WF6F with     at     least 50 yds of quality 20# braided darcon backing.       There are exceptions, though.  I recently bought an Okuma Sierra reel for my   3 weight rod.  It is supposedly sized for 4 and 5 weight lines, but it is a   great deal smaller than the Orvis reel I bought about the same time.    Even   with the 3 weight WF line there is only room for about 50 yards of backing. That’s weird. I have the same reel loaded with a 5 weight WF and I have at least that much backing on it. You got one of those fat 555 lines on it? Willi

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Walt, Normally, if a reel is rated for a #5 outfit, it should hold a WF6F with at least 50 yds of quality 20# braided darcon backing. There are exceptions, though.  I recently bought an Okuma Sierra reel for my 3 weight rod.  It is supposedly sized for 4 and 5 weight lines, but it is a great deal smaller than the Orvis reel I bought about the same time.  Even with the 3 weight WF line there is only room for about 50 yards of backing. Most reel manufacturers seem to be, shall we say, optimistic about the capacities of their reels.  I usually make a point of buying the reel about one size larger than the manufacturer’s specs indicate that I should buy. Kevin

Well, it also depends on what line was used is the capacity determination.  One of the "by-products" of the "new" system (weight, as opposed to size) is that diameter is not relevant, and so, it’s entirely possible to have a reel that will hold a particular brand of line, of a given weight, and X yards of backing, just as the maker indicates, and yet, not even be able to hold a full line of another type.  Granted, such a large variation is not likely, but in a smaller sized "large arbor" with a narrow spool, such a thing is possible, however unlikely. For a current example of the extremes, look a smaller _size_ silk compared to roughly equivalent, in _weight_, Cortland 555. TC, R

Response:

Hi Walt, Normally, if a reel is rated for a #5 outfit, it should hold a WF6F with at least 50 yds of quality 20# braided darcon backing. There are exceptions, though.  I recently bought an Okuma Sierra reel for my 3 weight rod.  It is supposedly sized for 4 and 5 weight lines, but it is a great deal smaller than the Orvis reel I bought about the same time.  Even with the 3 weight WF line there is only room for about 50 yards of backing.

Most reel manufacturers seem to be, shall we say, optimistic about the capacities of their reels.  I usually make a point of buying the reel about one size larger than the manufacturer’s specs indicate that I should buy. Kevin

Response:

Hi Walt, Normally, if a reel is rated for a #5 outfit, it should hold a WF6F with at least 50 yds of quality 20# braided darcon backing.

There are exceptions, though.  I recently bought an Okuma Sierra reel for my 3 weight rod.  It is supposedly sized for 4 and 5 weight lines, but it is a great deal smaller than the Orvis reel I bought about the same time.  Even with the 3 weight WF line there is only room for about 50 yards of backing. Wolfgang

Response:

Thanks for all the feedback … consistent message … I will check on the backing and if sufficient I will go with the #5.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am fairly new to flyfishing. I have a 5/6 wt rated graphite rod and am considering a buy on a 5 wt reel.  I also have quite a bit of 6 wt line. Is it okay to put 6 wt line on a 5 wt reel?  I am assuming/thinking that since the rod is a 5/6 wt combination … it should be okay? thanks, Walt

Response:

I am fairly new to flyfishing. I have a 5/6 wt rated graphite rod and am considering a buy on a 5 wt reel.  I also have quite a bit of 6 wt line.  Is it okay to put 6 wt line on a 5 wt reel?  I am assuming/thinking that since the rod is a 5/6 wt combination … it should be okay? thanks, Walt

Response:

I am fairly new to flyfishing. I have a 5/6 wt rated graphite rod and am considering a buy on a 5 wt reel.  I also have quite a bit of 6 wt line. Is it okay to put 6 wt line on a 5 wt reel?  I am assuming/thinking that since the rod is a 5/6 wt combination … it should be okay?

It’ll be fine.  You might need a bit less backing than they recommend.

Response:

I am fairly new to flyfishing. I have a 5/6 wt rated graphite rod and am considering a buy on a 5 wt reel.  I also have quite a bit of 6 wt line.  Is it okay to put 6 wt line on a 5 wt reel?  I am assuming/thinking that since the rod is a 5/6 wt combination … it should be okay? thanks, Walt

Shouldn

Question:

I plan to fly fish Sunday from sun-up to sun-down on a western Washington river. The hunt is for pink salmon. Has anyone had much success on the Skykomish river this past week? I was on it three times last week and saw a LOT of fish jumping/rolling/striking on the surface. However, they were on the far bank and I was unable to reach them. The report that I heard yesterday indicated there are a ton of pink salmon in the rivers right now. The second destination is the Stillaquamish river, west of I-5. I understand that’s supposed to be a good spot for salmon as well. I hope the visibility is up this weekend. Thanks for any input, Ryan

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I plan to fly fish Sunday from sun-up to sun-down on a western Washington river. The hunt is for pink salmon. Has anyone had much success on the Skykomish river this past week? I was on it three times last week and saw a LOT of fish jumping/rolling/striking on the surface. However, they were on the far bank and I was unable to reach them. The report that I heard yesterday indicated there are a ton of pink salmon in the rivers right now. The second destination is the Stillaquamish river, west of I-5. I understand that’s supposed to be a good spot for salmon as well. I hope the visibility is up this weekend. Thanks for any input, Ryan

I just read a report that a guy and his partner caught 40 humpies in 4 hours last night on the lower Stilly. The fish are there. I’d be willing to bet that the lower Sky is pretty much the same. Darin

Response:

Yeah, they’re there alright… I fished the Skykomish for a couple hours this weekend. Saw more fish than I’ve ever seen in my life. Didn’t get one hit. They must be thinking about getting a little instead of thinking about food.

Response:

Its been a good for hatchery returns pretty much accross the board (Coho and Dog and Humpies). I unerstan the limit on steelhead hatchery returns to the grand Ronde was raised to 3. Dave

Response:

OK, again I can’t keep my mouth (fingers?) shut.  I’ve been to the Stilly near I-5 three times in the last week, and in a word, it’s AWSOME.  The first day I stayed about an hour and a half, released a couple fish and took home 4 pinks.  All were bright and tasty.  The second day I took my son Andy with me and we spent a little longer, released more fish, and brought home 6.   Today I took Andy and a friend and it was better.  There were more fish and bigger fish.  Andy had a killer pattern that got him agressive strikes on 10 successive casts while I was next to him and hooked one fish per 20 casts.  Here’s a pattern for his fly: Hook:  TMC105 #4 (straight eye egg hook, heavy and short) Thread:  Hot pink. Eyes:  Small red Clouser style Tail:  Fuscia (pink) marabou, not too thick about 1.5 times the length of the body. Body:  Pink sparkle chenile We here in a pool below an island, and the fish were stacked up at the line between the two flows.  Others with non-pink flies and hardware were not catching nearly as many fish as I was, let alone the amazing catch Andy had.  My fly was the same as his, but without the eyes.  The strikes I got were gentle, not the attacks Andy was getting. Chas – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I plan to fly fish Sunday from sun-up to sun-down on a western Washington river. The hunt is for pink salmon. Has anyone had much success on the Skykomish river this past week? I was on it three times last week and saw a LOT of fish jumping/rolling/striking on the surface. However, they were on the far bank and I was unable to reach them. The report that I heard yesterday indicated there are a ton of pink salmon in the rivers right now. The second destination is the Stillaquamish river, west of I-5. I understand that’s supposed to be a good spot for salmon as well. I hope the visibility is up this weekend. Thanks for any input, Ryan

Response:

I unerstan the limit on steelhead hatchery returns to the grand Ronde was raised to 3.

Hey, Dave, do you know if they’re basing that on fish counts over the dams, or are the temps in the Ronde already low enough to be bringing enough fish in to give them a good idea of returns on the Ronde? Reason I ask is that I’ve got a two week plus trip starting next Sunday, heading up to see my folks and my brother up in Tacoma (driving from Nevada City, California). In addition to seeing an M’s game in this historic season, eating some good sushi for a change, and hitting some old favorite watering holes, I’m going to be doing a helluva lot of fishing. I’m going to start with a couple days on the Klamath on the way up, maybe hitting the Kalama for an afternoon before arriving in Tacoma the night before my M’s game, but on the way back I want to spend serious time on the Deschutes and, if it’s happening, the Ronde (with, of course, a day or so on either the upper Sac, the McCloud, or the Klamath on the way back). Too much damn water between California and Washington! Every time I do this trip, I spend two months thinking about which rivers I want to hit! Tight lines and two more seasons with Edgar, – Sid

Response:

Question:

 I find a 6 weight rod is a supurb compromise in that it is not worth a damn for either. You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the  ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all- around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal.

Bullshit, a six weight is the most useless weight to own for any fly fisherman who owns more than one rod. Get a 4/5 and then a 7. Too damn big for MOST trout and pan fishing and too damn small for MOST sw and fw application. There’s a reason I only own one six weight <g — Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas Before you buy.

Response:

if the drag on your reel is of sufficient quality, and if your tippet is sufficiently strong, and if you have sufficient experience, then landing a 100lb tarpon on a 3wt should be no different than doing the same thing on a 9wt, *assuming you can deliver the fly to the fish*.  

You could probably kill a tarpon with a 3wt, but I doubt you could lift it to the boat with a 3wt. Bigger fly rods have purpose other than delivering bigger files. FWIW — Charlie…

Response:

Bigger fly rods have purpose other than delivering bigger files. FWIW

Sounds like you may already own that ultimate rod RW was talking about. Does it deliver Chinese food and pizza as well? <g –Steve

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  I find a 6 weight rod is a supurb compromise in that it is not worth a damn for either. You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the  ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all- around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal. Bullshit, a six weight is the most useless weight to own for any fly fisherman who owns more than one rod. Get a 4/5 and then a 7. Too damn big for MOST trout and pan fishing and too damn small for MOST sw and fw application. There’s a reason I only own one six weight <g — Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas

ehh? please allow me shuffle my feet and to clarify…. *if* I only had one rod available to me, *and* i wanted to fish many different situations, a 9′ 6wt would be my choice, lines down. that is the advise i received when i first started flyfishing down in FL and it, imo, was very good advise. it allowed me to fish in many different waters with very little monetary outlay. now that i own many different rods for different fishing situations, the 6wt is rarely used any more. however, it will be dusted-off very soon for chasin’ chromers. walt fellow expert in creating tailing loops and windknots otherwise up-to-my-knees-in-trout in God’s Country <g

Response:

8<…. if the drag on your reel is of sufficient quality, and if your tippet is sufficiently strong, and if you have sufficient experience, then landing a 100lb tarpon on a 3wt should be no different than doing the same thing on a 9wt, *assuming you can deliver the fly to the fish*.  let me repeat that:  *assuming you can deliver the fly to the fish*.  of course, in the real world, that is a rare assumption. wayno

wayno, with all due respect, fighting a 100 pound tarpon "properly" would destroy a 3wt rod. i say "properly" in the context of releasing the fish unharmed in a timely manner so that the fish could live to return to his environment, "unchanged", or more aptly stated, "wild." the length of time it would take to land a 100 pound tarpon on a 3wt, imo, would kill the fish either by exhaustion or by shark attack. that said, if you had said "hook" vs "landed" i could have agreed with you….it would be possible to deliver a thinly-dressed streamer using a 3wt to a cruising tarpon. why anyone would choose to do so is dahlwhinnian…. to clarify, hitch a ride with zimbo tomorrow am and i’ll put you on a mountain-version "tarpon" with your 3wt. <g –kamloopy wataugan waldo — Ezflyfish.com: http://www.ezflyfish.com Blue Ridge Book Gallery: http://users.boone.net/wgw/brbg.html

Response:

Bullshit, a six weight is the most useless weight to own for any fly fisherman who owns more than one rod. Get a 4/5 and then a 7. Too damn big for MOST trout and pan fishing and too damn small for MOST sw and fw application. There’s a reason I only own one six weight <g — Wayne Knight

and I have four (counting the mix & match East Branch) and it’s my most frequently used weight.  - diffferent folks, different strokes. (8′, 8′ 6", 9′ 6", & 10′6") Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

I’m looking to building a fly rod this winter just for yucks.  I’ve done several casting rods in the past, but this would be a first. Can anybody recommend a good blank to use – expense isn’t really a factor, so any recommendation would be appreciated. Thanks.

Response:

I’m looking to building a fly rod this winter just for yucks. … Can anybody recommend a good blank to use …

You’ll have to tell us more about yucks. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

I’m looking to building a fly rod this winter just for yucks. … Can anybody recommend a good blank to use … You’ll have to tell us more about yucks.

He is my evil twin.      :)

Response:

I’m looking to building a fly rod this winter just for yucks. … Can anybody recommend a good blank to use … You’ll have to tell us more about yucks. He is my evil twin.      :)

Ah, so you want to build a rod capable of tossing a bottle of scotch 60 feet and landing a 185 lb twin. Definitely a 12wt. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

He is my evil twin.

Oh shit, not another one of those!   <g For a cheap intro to rod building, I’d still stay away from anything too crummy.   After all, when you’re done, you do want to be proud of it and fish with it.   My first few rods were built on higher end St. Croix blanks. Well below $100 each.   I also just started on one that’s a discontinued Loomis blank (IM6) I bought off Ebay for about 40 bucks.   There are also some dealers out there who have a supply of discontinued blanks.   D&E Rods (www.danderods.com) is one.   I have a nice 3 wt. Loomis IMX blank from them awaiting my attention (don’t remember that price, but it was cheap enough that I bought a blank I don’t need.) Either way you go, I recommend a decent blank.   The hardware cost and time invested are too much to put it into a practice stick.   Even if you screw it up cosmetically, it will still fish well (I have one or two that fit that category.) Joe F.

Response:

The range and type of fly-rod blanks is very extensive. You will need to give us more information about what you wish to fish for, and under what circumstances, before we could be of any real assistance. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking to building a fly rod this winter just for yucks.  I’ve done several casting rods in the past, but this would be a first. Can anybody recommend a good blank to use – expense isn’t really a factor, so any recommendation would be appreciated. Thanks.

Response:

If anyone out there disagrees with me then I’ve got an only-once-used 6wt 3-piece Diamondback rod and matching Hardy reel I’ll sell at a very fair price –Steve

See below.  I’ve already got a 3 pce Diamondback 6 wt. with a Hardy reel but who knows, I might need a spare some day. $10.00 ?  <g Peter

Response:

Good for you. There are whores, and there are whores.  The main thing is to make sure you live happy, and if possible die in the same condition. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de Yes, I’m a whore. My first fly rod, a Martin 6wt with matching martin 6 wt

<SNIP

Response:

You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all-around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal. Huh??? What happened to the *real* Walt Winter?? Not only would the real Waldo never recommend owning only one rod, but the real Waldo wouldn’t get caught dead on an NC stream *or* cedar key with a 6-weight rod.

        i don’t know what the hell this has to do with anything, or whether it makes any difference to anyone who might read this sort of thing (what *are* we doing discussing fly rods on roff, anyway?), but in my damn near fifty years of fishing with a fly rod, i have never owned a 6 weight rod.  in fact, i have never cast a heavier line than a 5 for trout, even when we girded our loins for the fabled big water and high winds of montana.  i think the issue is almost completely controlled by the question of what the size and weight of the fly might be.  if the drag on your reel is of sufficient quality, and if your tippet is sufficiently strong, and if you have sufficient experience, then landing a 100lb tarpon on a 3wt should be no different than doing the same thing on a 9wt, *assuming you can deliver the fly to the fish*.  let me repeat that:  *assuming you can deliver the fly to the fish*.  of course, in the real world, that is a rare assumption. wayno

Response:

You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all-around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal.

Huh??? What happened to the *real* Walt Winter?? Not only would the real Waldo never recommend owning only one rod, but the real Waldo wouldn’t get caught dead on an NC stream *or* cedar key with a 6-weight rod. I say buy two rods. A 7′6" 3wt for trout and (if you must) a 9′ 7wt for bass. If cost is an issue then buy two inexpensive rods. If anyone out there disagrees with me then I’ve got an only-once-used 6wt 3-piece Diamondback rod and matching Hardy reel I’ll sell at a very fair price –Steve

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all-around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal. Huh??? What happened to the *real* Walt Winter?? Not only would the real Waldo never recommend owning only one rod, but the real Waldo wouldn’t get caught dead on an NC stream *or* cedar key with a 6-weight rod. I say buy two rods. A 7′6" 3wt for trout and (if you must) a 9′ 7wt for bass. If cost is an issue then buy two inexpensive rods. If anyone out there disagrees with me then I’ve got an only-once-used 6wt 3-piece Diamondback rod and matching Hardy reel I’ll sell at a very fair price –Steve

Yes, I’m a whore. My first fly rod, a Martin 6wt with matching martin 6 wt reel, was last used catching a steelie here in NC. It was first used catching bass on watermelon pond and it has also been used catching more species than any other rod in my inventory. Reminiscing, it has caught largemouth bass, smallmouth bass, suwanee bass, sunshine bass, peacock bass, many varieties of panfish, specs, redfish, black drum, snook, trout, stripers, weakfish, bonefish, gar, pickerel, barracuda, shad, tarpon, cobia (damn near lost it on that bad boy), mackeral, crevalles, ladyfish, and of course, that gorgeous chromer last winter in the company of that fine southern gentleman, Tom Brown. The butt of this rod  is still used daily as I use it as a reel "holder" when I manually load reels for sale. This rod is as much a part of me as my soul, as a matter of fact, blasphemously, one could say it is part and parcel of my soul. but i digress. my affliction spread like the plague. i acquired numerous rods and reels to fit certain needs, some psychological. although i suck at it, i even took up tying flies. i still was far from being satiated….. so, i opened a "flyshop". i now have more gawdang gear than any sane person should be allowed to possess. hundreds of reels and of rods, seemingly, enough line, leader & tippet to circumvent the earth. yet, be still, the fire burns hotter. my fervant desire now, as all invoices are paid, is to retire with all of this cool stuff. mine, all mine <g i, waldo, am a whore. ww — Ezflyfish.com: http://www.ezflyfish.com Blue Ridge Book Gallery: http://users.boone.net/wgw/brbg.html

Response:

 I find a 6 weight rod is a supurb compromise in that it is not worth a damn for either.

You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all-around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal. –walt Ezflyfish.com: http://www.ezflyfish.com Blue Ridge Book Gallery: http://users.boone.net/wgw/brbg.html

Response:

[snip] All good advice and I’ll add just one little bit more.  You can get away with a 7 or 8 wt. for small fish if you can find a short, slow action version and build it with a standard trout handle.  I lucked into an old 8′ 6" Orvis Green Mountain with a slow – moderate action and a small handle (no fighting butt.)  I’d have no difficulty using it for anything.  I’ve caught smallies under a pound that put a decent bend in it yet it’ll toss a 2/0 streamer about 80′.  I’ve tried a Fenwick HMGF 8′6" 7 wt. that also impressed me as a good all-round rod. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Ken wrote snip:Like I said, it’s a tough call, maybe some of the other warmwater guys in the group can recommend one and only one blank for both bluegill & bass but I’m afraid you have me stumped.

I think Ken is correct. I love my little 3 weight rods for bluegill and I take my fair share of bass on them, but they are all small bass. I don’t think I have landed a bass of over 3 pounds on one of them. There is no way in hell I can use a 3 weight to cast the flies that work best for large bass with a rod that small. I most often use  a 7 to 10 weight rod when I am fishing for sizable bass.  I find a 6 weight rod is a supurb compromise in that it is not worth a damn for either. Big Dale

Response:

RE choose a rod blank for "pan fish to bass?" Sandy’s treatise on blank choosing with an angle: A 6-weight rod is generally considered the most versatile trout rod. With a 6-weight you can cast anything from an itty-bitty mayfly on a 7x tippet to a #2 woolly bugger on 0x tippet. But if you want to cast pike flies, bass worms or extra-bushy bass poppers, you will probably want a 7 or 8 weight rod. I like 9′ rods. But some people think they have more control over shorter (8′) rods. Once you have the size down, you still have to zero in on cost and action. Some guys (actually) like soft, slow action rods, like many built by Orvis, Winston or Powell. Slow action rods are easier to cast, more graceful to use. But they don’t handle heavy flies, wind or distance casting very well. Orvis, Winston and Powell make some moderately fast rods too. The fastest, most powerful casting canons I know of are made by Sage and Loomis. Someone told me Scott makes a powerful rod, but I never tried one. Cost? The most expensive rods are the best. But how much better are they? Not a whole lot, I don’t think. I have some fly rods that cost almost $600 bucks. They’re damn good rods. But I have a few (Sage, Loomis and Cabelas) that (for finished rods) cost $180 to $220. And they’re damned good rods too. Who makes Cabelas blanks anyway? It’s Loomis isn’t it? There are some really cheap graphite fly rods showing up now, like those made by Eagle Claw. Has anybody tried those? If you like soft, slow action rods, I can’t see any reason to buy an expensive one. What you get–with more money–is casting power. — /* Sandy Pittendrigh   –O0  * http://cns.montana.edu/~sandy/  */

Response:

That’s a tough prescription to fill, Tom. I like a 3wt for bluegill and a 7wt for bass. Logically then a 5wt would be your blank of choice but I don’t think you’d be happy with it in either situation. Not that it wouldn’t work, I used an old 8′ Garcia Conolon 7/8wt for years as my one and only flyrod for bass & bluegill in the days before I knew any better and I caught a lot of fish and had great time with it. The other consideration besides rod weight is action. I like a slow action for most situations, my canoe bluegill rod is a 9′ Winston 3wt, but for tossin’ big, wind eatin’ bass bugs a faster action works better for me, something along the lines of the discontinued Sage RPL series. Like I said, it’s a tough call, maybe some of the other warmwater guys in the group can recommend one and only one blank for both bluegill & bass but I’m afraid you have me stumped. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

Yucks,  slang, corruption of middle English, German Jux. =For fun TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You’ll have to tell us more about yucks. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

The range and type of fly-rod blanks is very extensive. You will need to give us more information about what you wish to fish for, and under what circumstances, before we could be of any real assistance.

Response:

In which case, I at least, am unable to help much. I have never fished for such species. Someone else will doubtless be able to help you with regard to weight length etc. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The range and type of fly-rod blanks is very extensive. You will need to give us more information about what you wish to fish for, and under what circumstances, before we could be of any real assistance.

Response:

Question:

As soon as the head is dry, I’ll scan in my first attempt at a neutral buoyancy perch fly and post it to ABPF. The recipe is: Hook:  Rangley 1/0 8X Thread: Uni-thread 3/0 olive Body:  Float foam cut to body shape and loosely tied on. Covered in braided silver mylar tube then covered with pearlescent translucent braided mylar tube. Throat:  Red Floss Belly:  White calf tail. Underwing:  Chartruese Krystal flash Wing:  Chartruese bucktail Overwing: Olive polar bear (substitute olive bucktail) Bars: black permanent marker. Eyes:  Gold and black stick-on We’ll see if it works on Saturday. Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

I’m an old pike and bass fisherman so it’ll be tough for me to get out of the habit of a firm set when I get that hard smash and big swirl from a big brown.

I trained myself to do this, against instinct, when fishing for bass with minnows on the bottom.  I would use a slip sinker and let the fish run with the minnow until it was "home" or wherever it took it and started to swallow it. The harder the strike, the faster I’d try to drop that rod tip.  A test of nerves, actually, for a young guy to watch that line go out and resist striking.  I’m not suggesting you let a trout run with a streamer, of course. Regards, Jeff

Response:

I use a pattern for smallmouth bass that imitates a stunned, drifting minnow very well – Harry Murray’s Strymph in white. Streamer hook weight the body with lead wire white ostrich herl tail – 8-12 pieces dubbed rabbit fur body (loop dubbed for long shaggy look) long grizzly collar I use a little weight, more toward the head, to give the fly that injured minnow look. I bet it would work well at night – pushes a lot of water.

Response:

I use a pattern for smallmouth bass that imitates a stunned, drifting minnow very well – Harry Murray’s Strymph in white. Streamer hook weight the body with lead wire white ostrich herl tail – 8-12 pieces dubbed rabbit fur body (loop dubbed for long shaggy look) long grizzly collar I use a little weight, more toward the head, to give the fly that injured minnow look. I bet it would work well at night – pushes a lot of water.

My son has had good success with browns at a local pond using white conehead woolly buggers – same general idea. Peter

Response:

Sorry about the interruption. The last trip to the Grand produced a ton of strikes and few fish.  I was using a leftover green ghost from Maine and stripping it fast across current.  About two out of three casts produced a strike with one being hard enough to bend the hook shank yet I only hooked about a half-dozen.  The general consensus around the coffee pot at the flyshop was – the fly was moving so fast and shallow, the browns were whacking it to stun it so they could then swallow it at their lesiure. Since they discovered the fraud on the first hit, they never came back for seconds. This Saturday, I plan on working a weighted perch bucktail pattern much deeper and slower to see if the hookup rate improves.  Anybody else ever encounter this? Peter We now return you to your regularly scheduled political debate.

Response:

Hi Peter, this is fairly common on stillwaters, and occasionally in rivers, most especially with brown trout.  They attack a baitfish to stun or maim it, and then return to leisurely mop it up.  The trick here is, as soon as you get a strike, slacken up, and even pay out line if necessary, so that your streamer tumbles and sinks as if wounded or stunned. Surprisingly this often results in a solid take, when the attacking fish returns to mop it up. Fish are sometimes hooked quite deeply doing this, as they take very confidently indeed, knowing that the "stunned" fish can not escape. The only difficulty involved sometimes, is actually detecting the take itself, although as I said, most such fish take so confidently and deeply, that you can not miss them, often you will see the slack line shooting away as the fish swims off with its prize, which it has taken "on the drop"..  I usually wait about fifteen seconds or so after "slackening up", fish the cast out dead drift, and then either strike when the line moves, or simply tighten up again, invariably the fish is on.  In fast water five seconds should be enough.  Once a fish hits a baitfish, it does not expect it to keep on swimming or "fleeing" as normal, and you are unlikely to get a second hit on the same streamer from the same fish using a "normal" fast retrieve. I think it unlikely that fish detect the fraud so easily on the take, especially with streamers, as many bait fish have hard fins etc, and this does not prevent the fish attacking them. If the fish is pricked on the first hit,( especially enough to bend a hook ),  it might not come back, but this has not been my experience.  Most of my really large fish have been caught in this manner, usually at night. This behaviour is most predominant when bait fish ( like minnows etc ) are shoaling, but may actually occur at any time. One stream I fish has a good population of bullheads, and a muddler minnow fished deep in this manner invariably accounts for a couple of good fish at any time. Nearly all the fish are taken "on the drop", after the first strike, although occasionally one is hooked directly, although often with a bad hookhold, which leads me to believe that the fish are not trying to take it the first time around, but stun, or kill it, with the specific intention of mopping up the result. Fishing deep and slow usually results in less hits in such circumstances, but more solid "direct" hook ups, the fish then being hooked when it strikes the first time.. TL MC — "If you have tried everything you know, and nothing works, then perhaps it is time to accept that you don

Question:

Not much of a report actually, Kathy . I think you were going for something like SPAM. Capt. Gary S. Colecchio West Palm Beach "Lie ? Me ? Never!  No, no, no, the truth is far too much fun !" – Captain Hook

Response:

Would be nice to know where you are talking about in the Florida Panhandle. Destin? Port St. Joe? ….other?

Response:

This past month has been HOT! HOT! HOT! Not only record temperature-wise but the Tarpon have been here in very large numbers. They have been cruising through AND laying up in the bay, great opportunities for both Fly fisherman and Plug Casters alike. Some days this month we have had up to 35 shots at Tarpon on Fly, with a respectable hook up ratio. Though we have been after the Tarpon since early May, barring unforeseen weather (the "H" word) we plan on fishing for them into September.     Tarpon aren’t the only fish to grace our waters this time of year either. We have seen huge schools of Black Drum, some nice sized Redfish, Tripletail, Sharks, Cobia, Jack Crevalle and other reef fish. For more details and information please email me direct or call me at 850-653-8896. Thanks! Kathy Robinson

Response:

Question:

Greetings fellow fur floggers, I have sent the controls to create this newsgroup.  If I have done it right, this should start appearing on newsservers shortly.  Please post a fishing image to help legitimize the ng.   We decided on .fishing, so that it will allow us to grow it to .fishing.fly, .salt, .naked or whatever.   Pray for the new group…(Or as they say in The Ghosts in the Darkness) Prey for the new group. TimW

Response:

Greetings fellow fur floggers, We decided on .fishing, so that it will allow us to grow it to .fishing.fly, .salt, .naked or whatever.  

Given the sex-site spammers that have overrun all the .bin groups I bet you’re not far off with that.  The group appeared here today, so I’ll be looking for posts. — Derek R. Larson           Indiana University       Department of History   "Eastward I go by force, but Westward I go free!"  -H. D. Thoreau

Response:

just a reminder of this groups existence and a call for posts there…it is starting to get some quality images in it. Tks. — TimW Halfordian Golfer

Can’t get the group.  My ISP swears I have access to all the groups. Anyone have any ideas? — Mark N. Cahill For E-mail remove the _Remove_This from the reply to address. http://www.geocities.com/Baja/3297

Response:

just a reminder of this groups existence and a call for posts there…it is starting to get some quality images in it. Tks. — TimW Halfordian Golfer

Response:

Question:

Have seen ad and sent for brochure on Diamondback rods, anyone have any experience with this company? I am interested in buying a blank from them. Would appreciate any life experiences with this company. Thanks, DLowe

They are nice rods.  I have fished them, at the request of my fishing partner who sells them.  They cast very similar to a Scott, have a nice finish, etc.  Life experiences you may not find, as they haven’t been around that long (like maybe 5 or 6 years?) Tight lines, -Burton

Response:

Excellent company run by first class people who build a fine product. You won’t be disappointed in my opinion. Tom Dougherty – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Have seen ad and sent for brochure on Diamondback rods, anyone have any experience with this company? A few years ago, I bought a prototype 8 1/2′ 3/4 wgt. (prototype meaning no graphics on the rod and it wasn’t listed in their brochure) that I ran across on sale, and I think it’s wonderful.  It has a slow action, rather like my Winston 3 wgt., but it’s a bit heavier than an all-graphite rod would be (I think it’s one of their ‘lamiglass’ hybrids).  It casts both 3 & 4 wgt. lines equally well; I choose which based on wind conditions and fish spookiness.  HPH

Response:

after reading all reply’s i am happy to know that i am not the only one who has broken there diamondback rods.i have two backwater series rods and both have broken at the ferrule,the last one breaking on the first cast of the first day in the florida keys.great trip!!they did repair them very fast but not even a letter of explanation.i think my next rod is an rplx.                                                           larry morris

Response:

I love fly fishing in general it is so fun!!!! I love you too

Response:

I love fly fishing in general it is so fun!!!! I love you too

that was beautiful man. you still aren’t getting my beer, though… TimW

Response:

I love fly fishing in general it is so fun!!!! I love you tooGeez Jerry –

Isn’t 10:32 in the morning a tad early to be drinking?

Response:

I love fly fishing in general it is so fun!!!! I love you too

..T-Bone..Send the Doc a homebrew!!….;)

Response:

I love fly fishing in general it is so fun!!!! I love you too ..T-Bone..Send the Doc a homebrew!!….;)

Nah, he’d just use it to splash back more prozak. TimW

Response:

I love fly fishing in general it is so fun!!!! I love you too ..T-Bone..Send the Doc a homebrew!!….;)

Actually it sounds like he has had one too many already! -Burton

Response:

6/7 wt, 8-1/2 ft four-piece rods for years.  Very stiff action and will punch a line into the wind like no other rod I’ve ever used. Great for alpine lake fishing, which is why this is my backpacking rod of choice. Also great for going deep in big streams. Forget delicate presentations, however.  I also broke mine, and Diamondback fixed it very nicely. I think Diamondback used to private label a line of rods for L.L.Bean. Good luck!

Response:

Have seen ad and sent for brochure on Diamondback rods, anyone have any experience with this company? I am interested in buying a blank from them. Would appreciate any life experiences with this company. Thanks, DLowe 21757.

Response:

Have seen ad and sent for brochure on Diamondback rods, anyone have any

experience with this company? I am interested in buying a blank from them. Would appreciate any life experiences with this company.<< I like the action of the rods, I have two a 9wt and a 5 wt. The five weight broke at the ferrules while casting the first time out and it took too long (IMO) to get it back but they did fix it. I will not buy another one, that is my experience. Wayne Knight Marietta GA                                              

Response:

Have seen ad and sent for brochure on Diamondback rods, anyone have any experience with this company? I am interested in buying a blank from them. Would appreciate any life experiences with this company. Thanks, DLowe 21757.

      I visited the factory up in Vermont a few years ago, and at the time their set-up looked efficient and clean; they stocked a nice line of rods, blanks and rod-building supplies. I’ve not been there recently.   Louise Scharrenberg

Response:

Have seen ad and sent for brochure on Diamondback rods, anyone have any experience with this company?

A few years ago, I bought a prototype 8 1/2′ 3/4 wgt. (prototype meaning no graphics on the rod and it wasn’t listed in their brochure) that I ran across on sale, and I think it’s wonderful.  It has a slow action, rather like my Winston 3 wgt., but it’s a bit heavier than an all-graphite rod would be (I think it’s one of their ‘lamiglass’ hybrids).  It casts both 3 & 4 wgt. lines equally well; I choose which based on wind conditions and fish spookiness.  HPH

Response:

Have seen ad and sent for brochure on Diamondback rods, anyone have any experience with this company? A few years ago, I bought a prototype 8 1/2′ 3/4 wgt. (prototype meaning no graphics on the rod and it wasn’t listed in their brochure) that I ran across on sale, and I think it’s wonderful.  It has a slow action, rather like my Winston 3 wgt., but it’s a bit heavier than an all-graphite rod would be (I think it’s one of their ‘lamiglass’ hybrids).  It casts both 3 & 4 wgt. lines equally well; I choose which based on wind conditions and fish spookiness.  HPH

I built a rod on a Diamondback 3 pc. Backwater blank last year and have fished it, oh probably 100 times more or less. The first two times out I broke the ferrule between the mid and tip section. Diamondback was real good about replacing it, and the rod designer, George, seemed genuinely interested in what the hell I was doing with their rods to do this :- I was using a 450 head (10 weight blank). The third ferrule was the charm and I’ve since had no problems at all, though I notice they’ve gone to the (IMO) much more reliable tip over butt ferrule in this year’s Saltwater rods (yay!). In terms of performance it casts very well with the rated line (#10) no need to overload it for wind or large flies. It’s less stiff than my Cabelas HML and a little more stiff than my Fisher GT40 if that helps. I can cast it all day without fatigue. Their stock rods seem very well built, I like their clown nose fighting butts, and the saltwater blank is especially nice to look at. I’d get another one, esp. with the new ferrule.                                                                 jc

Response:

Question:

Hi guys-    Am going to Borneo on a cave mapping trip in October through December. Anybody know anything about the fisheries there or who to contact? -Ralph —

Response:

Hi guys-   Am going to Borneo on a cave mapping trip in October through December. Anybody know anything about the fisheries there or who to contact? -Ralph —

        oh, god, what a great post.  thanks, cutter.  haven’t had a laugh like this in months.                 a. wayne harrison

Response:

        oh, god, what a great post.  thanks, cutter.  haven’t had a laugh like this in months!                 a. wayne harrison

        No. Really.         I’d hate to show up with a box of PMD’s when the centipede hatch was going bonkers.         Seriously though, if anyone has any leads regarding fish or fishing in Borneo I’d appreciate a word. -Me

Response:

        oh, god, what a great post.  thanks, cutter.  haven’t had a laugh like this in months!                 a. wayne harrison         No. Really.         I’d hate to show up with a box of PMD’s when the centipede hatch was going bonkers.         Seriously though, if anyone has any leads regarding fish or fishing in Borneo I’d appreciate a word.

I do not. RE: Fish in Caves… Once I was in a cave in Colorado that had running water in it (on an extended backpacking rip)…it was FULL of brookies…wierd little huge jawed brookies…that would hit anything. We ate a lot of them… We kept ‘em alive on a stringer…bonk one…cut off the head…insert weenie stick along spine and cook like a marshmallow.  DELICIOUS ! TimW

Response:

Try contacting  Hock-Heng Pro Fishing in Singapore , they are pretty knowledgable from what I remember . Unfortunately I do not have their contact information anymore , but remember the name . G

Response:

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –    Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly    Organization: Temple University, Academic Computer Services    Misha,    Personally, I would bag the idea of using clip swivels at all.  From    personal experience, they tend to sink dry flys and they also are    difficult to get your fly onto (which if you’re using a dry will almost    certainly cause you to crush the hackles, tail, etc.). How ’bout pre-tying on the tippet, with a loop at the end, for a loop-to-loop -type of connection? — Matt Meola NRA Life, Libertarian, Militiaman Gun control means using two hands. Live free or die!

Matt, A loop-to-loop connection between the tippet and the next section of the leader might not allow the fly to turn over as easily (compared with, say a surgeons or barrel knot).  Also, it would seem to be a little too bulky for my taste, which could possibly put down some fish. Also, I have my doubts concerning the practicality of carrying around a hundred or so flys with tippets already attached (I’m implying that this was what you were getting at previously.  I apologize in advance if I misinterpreted your posting.). Best Regards, Jim Davis Philadelphia, PA Temple University

Response:

It gets rather tiring when I have to switch Flies and have to continue retying different Flies onto my line.. I use #14 and was wondering are their any types of Clip Swiviles out there for quick Fly changing..

Clips or swivels are too heavy and are not made in sizes small enough for the flies needed sometimes by trout. The simplest solution is to learn the turle knot, which is easy (can almost be tied blindfold or at night) and does not mash hackles. —  |          Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Rd., Carlsbad         |  |        Springs, Ont., Canada K0A 1K0; tel: (613) 822-0734       |  |  "What I’ve always liked about science is its independence from |  |  authority"–Ontario Science Centre (name on file) 10 July 1981 |

Response:

   Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly    Organization: Temple University, Academic Computer Services    Misha,    Personally, I would bag the idea of using clip swivels at all.  From    personal experience, they tend to sink dry flys and they also are    difficult to get your fly onto (which if you’re using a dry will almost    certainly cause you to crush the hackles, tail, etc.). How ’bout pre-tying on the tippet, with a loop at the end, for a loop-to-loop -type of connection? — Matt Meola NRA Life, Libertarian, Militiaman Gun control means using two hands. Live free or die!

Response:

It gets rather tiring when I have to switch Flies and have to continue retying different Flies onto my line.. I use #14 and was wondering are their any types of Clip Swiviles out there for quick Fly changing.. Misha

Response:

It gets rather tiring when I have to switch Flies and have to continue retying different Flies onto my line.. I use #14 and was wondering are their any types of Clip Swiviles out there for quick Fly changing.. Misha

Misha, Personally, I would bag the idea of using clip swivels at all.  From personal experience, they tend to sink dry flys and they also are difficult to get your fly onto (which if you’re using a dry will almost certainly cause you to crush the hackles, tail, etc.). Best Regards, Jim Davis Philadelphia, PA Temple University

Response:

Question:

Does anybody have any float tube puncture experiences to relate? Whilst toodling along on a lake the other day I started to think about what would happen if my tube suddenly sprung a leak.  A life preserver is an obvious answer, but over fleece jacket and fly vest? What happens when your chest waders fill with water? How difficult is it to exit the deflated tube and then remove clothing? etc. etc. etc….. Failing any practical advice as a result of this posting, I think its time to find a pool somewhere and experiment with various scenarios. Any suggestions? B.

Response:

Does anybody have any float tube puncture experiences to relate? Whilst toodling along on a lake the other day I started to think about what would happen if my tube suddenly sprung a leak.  A life preserver is an obvious answer, but over fleece jacket and fly vest? What happens when your chest waders fill with water? How difficult is it to exit the deflated tube and then remove clothing? etc. etc. etc…..

Float fishing without a life jacket is very ill advised (I started to say stupid, but decided to be nice instead).  With all the stuff you carry fly fishing you could go right to the bottom very easily.  Anybody carry extra spools, split shot, etc?  I don’t think waders are that much of a problem, since the water in them will be neutral boyancy, though I’ve not tried that. Try a better quality life jacket under your vest.  If you’re wearing a jacket anyway, it should not be that much of a problem.  Another solution is inflatable life jackets that have a CO2 cartridge in them. You can even buy fly vests with these built in.  And, I saw an integrated fly jacket/life jacket combination in a fly shop the other day which would be a good solution. One thing I wonder about is hyperthermia, though.  If you take a dip in a cold water pond in early spring or late fall, how long before you pass out?  I sure wouldn’t want to try it.  I would think waders would really help here, though, since they are somewhat like the wet suits divers wear. — | Dartmouth College                                  Home:  603-448-5677 | | 6211 Sudikoff Laboratory, Rm 108                                       | | Hanover, NH  03755                                                     |

Response:

Does anybody have any float tube puncture experiences to relate? Whilst toodling along on a lake the other day I started to think about what would happen if my tube suddenly sprung a leak.  A life preserver is an obvious answer, but over fleece jacket and fly vest? What happens when your chest waders fill with water? How difficult is it to exit the deflated tube and then remove clothing? etc. etc. etc….. Failing any practical advice as a result of this posting, I think its time to find a pool somewhere and experiment with various scenarios. Any suggestions? B.

While it has never happened to me, my thoughts on the subject is the backrest is an inflated bladder on my float tube, so if I suffered a puncture, kick like crazy for the shore, and when the tube is too deflated to support me anymore, free my feet from the tube, hug the backrest, and keep kicking. In my younger days I surfed in the Pacific Ocean, and I wore a neoprene wet suit. The wet suit was fairly thin (for ease of movement), I would estimate about the same thickness of a 2 or 3 mm wader. The wet suit was amazingly buoyant. Enough so that I would float at chin level with no effort. I think a neoprene chest wader would help a lot with floatation also. I have also seen a set of suspenders that inflates with a CO2 cartridge. Maybe if I couldn’t swim I would consider buying it. Darryl

Response:

<stuff deleted One thing I wonder about is hyperthermia, though.  If you take a dip

                                ^^ I rarely get hyperthermia unless I’m fishing too far down Hot Creek. HypOthermia, now that’s a problem in cold water. (Sorry, I couldn’t resist!) Sean Brennan

Response:

Well, it happened to me tonight.  As I loaded my float tube, I noticed it was a bit low.  I stopped by the gas station on the way out, and filled the tube.  However, I did continue to wonder why it was low, so I did keep an eye on the tube level for a while.  Well my tube didn’t seem to be loosing air, so naturally my attention turned to the crappie and bass that were hitting tonite.  Long about dusk, I suddenly noticed the tube was getting low and -then- noticed the sound of a leak.  I wasn’t far off the bank, rarely am when fishing this local gravel pit, so I paddled over to the bank and got out.  No reason to panic, the loss of air was audible but fairly slow.  As I laid the tube in the back of mmy truck, I could still hear the leak. Altogether I had been out fishing at least 4 hours, I know because I was listening to the Broncos getting beat by the Jets, and the post game show. Sure glad the fish were biting, because the Broncs weren’t.  I suppose the radio headphones were the reason I couldn’t hear the leak. I have no clue why or how I got the puncture, probably was due to the tube being about 10 years old.  I think I’ll get a new one.  My tube is one that has a separate tube for a back rest, so in case of a rapid deflation, I might be able to stay afloat.   All things considered, I wouldn’t even consider wearing a life jacket not in the past and not in the future.  In some states, a life jacket is req’d, but I don’t think it is in CO.  This experience confirmed my belief that any small puncture will deflate very slowly, since the air pressure in a float tube is so low.  I would take a good swift slice with a knife to achieve a rapid failure, and that is not likely (at least in places where I fish . Tight Lines, Kevin

Response: