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Question:

Good Morning to all,     I have been lerking in this room for about a month now. I really enjoy the information passed and the whit that is flung around the room. I decided to finally make myself known so that I may contribute (what little I do know)if the need arises.     I have been fishing for most of my life, but did not get into fly fishing until about 3 or 4 years ago. I tie, but not too well. Practice makes perfect though. Retired from the military and trying to make my way in the civilian sector. So far, so good. Maryland resident working with frank reid. He told me about this group. Thanks Frank!     Anyways, I look forward to reading more. Dan Mattice Sr.

If you REALLY want to see a bunch of fly fishing junkies, go on over to ROFF  (rec.outdoors.fishing.fly)   — A question is better debated and left unanswered than a question that is answered without debate. -Unknown

Response:

Dan,    Just saw this and welcome to the group.  Flytying is a wonderful diversion for those who like to experience a wider range of fly fishing activity.  Now, get back to work.  ;-)           Frank

Response:

Good Morning to all,      I have been lerking in this room for about a month now. I really enjoy the information passed and the whit that is flung around the room. I decided to finally make myself known so that I may contribute (what little I do know)if the need arises.      I have been fishing for most of my life, but did not get into fly fishing until about 3 or 4 years ago. I tie, but not too well. Practice makes perfect though. Retired from the military and trying to make my way in the civilian sector. So far, so good. Maryland resident working with frank reid. He told me about this group. Thanks Frank!      Anyways, I look forward to reading more. Dan Mattice Sr.

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Hauling: technical thoughts?

Hauling: technical thoughts?

Question:

Putting all that together, I gather that I haven’t broken a rod while casting because I use a roll cast or retrieve enough of a wet line to avoid that overload on the lift, and I’m never over bending the rod while casting.  The fatal errors come in the heat of battle. The more I think about it, I see what you mean about casting being the heaviest force on the rod. Thanks for your help, Chas

Response:

The force generated by "hauling" is not "applied directly" to the line. It’s applied though the loaded, and increasingly loaded, rod.

If it’s done right the rod is already fully loaded and you are just accelerating the line and, more importantly, the tip of the line. — Charlie…

Response:

The force generated by "hauling" is not "applied directly" to the line. It’s applied though the loaded, and increasingly loaded, rod. If it’s done right the rod is already fully loaded and you are just accelerating the line and, more importantly, the tip of the line. — Charlie…

Charlie, Your analysis of hauling to increase line speed and thus increasing casting distance is correct.  If it was a matter of loading the rod as rw says the caster would only have to apply more power to accomplish this. Ernie

Response:

rw, If the haul is done correctly the rod is fully loaded and any additional speed must be imparted to the line by foreword movement of your arm and by pulling "hauling" the line through the guides. Ernie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have to doubt that additional rod loading is minimal, Mike. The only way the caster can increase the speed of the line is by accelerating it. The only way he can accelerate it is by exerting a force on the line at the rod tip. (F=ma). An equal and opposite force is exerted on the rod at the tip, which results in loading the rod.

Response:

Charlie, Your analysis of hauling to increase line speed and thus increasing casting distance is correct.  If it was a matter of loading the rod as rw says the caster would only have to apply more power to accomplish this. Ernie

I’m not saying that the *point* of hauling is to load the rod. I’m saying only that one *effect* of hauling is additional loading of the rod. It has to have that effect — there’s no way around it. Hauling accelerates the line, which generates a force on the rod tip. (F=ma) Consider three cases: 1. After loading the rod on the forward cast (with no hauling), you accidently lose your grip on the line with your noncasting hand. The acceleration of the line vanishes, the force on the rod tip vanishes, the rod straightens without appreciably affecting the line, and the line falls on the water in a bloody mess. 2. You make a normal forward cast without hauling, just holding the line tight. A force is applied to the line by the rod tip, causing acceleration of the line. An equal and opposite force is applied to the rod top, causing loading of the rod. 3. You make a forward cast while hauling. The action of the noncasting hand, pulling on the line, causes an *additional* acceleration of the line. This additional acceleration causes an *additional* force on the rod tip, resulting in additional loading of the rod. If you ignore things like friction, you could replace the effect (on the rod) of hauling by a transient additional stress in the line, and the rod would have no way of "knowing" the difference. It would simply load more. (The line would behave very differently, though.) These three cases are really just points in a continuum. Whether you consider this additional rod loading to be significant is your business, but it’s nonetheless real. This is just elementary physics. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Whether you consider this additional rod loading to be significant is your business, but it’s nonetheless real. This is just elementary physics.

It also ignores the fact that the line is not attached to the tip of the rod and that the rod is very nearly, if not fully, loaded. There may be some additional loading, but what makes the haul work is the additional acceleration applied directly to the line. This is just elementary geometry<g. — Charlie…

Response:

http://www.mikeconnor.de You didn’t comment on my second reason.  Does this make sense to you?      A second reason that the loading is not the key is that you could achieve the same additional loading if you just applied a bit more casting force.  We know that a man of modest strength and a good haul can outcast a muscle man who doesn’t haul. Thanks Chas

This is also correct.    The amount of linespeed any particular rod may generate in a flyline by direct action is limited by various things, one of which is the strength and speed of the caster. ( assuming once again perfect technique). If you haul, you do not increase the loading, as you do not use direct rod action, but your line hand, and you do not require any more strength and speed to obtain similar results to someone who does not haul. However, a powerful person with good technique will always cast better ( assuming distance casting here of course), than a weaker person, simply because he has more power per se. TL MC

Response:

– "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If it were so that hauling dramatically increased rod loading, then hauling on an already optimally loaded rod would cause it to fold up. I’ve been mean to a few rods at times, putting a #10 line in a #8 rod and casting Pike flies for instance, but I’ve never managed to break one casting.  Is this because most of my fishing has been with Graphite or Glass? I have to dig back into some old Physics books to get the details, but I remember stress and strain curves for various materials showing a linear relationship until a limit was released, and then additional stress produced excessive strain until the material failed.  Certainly with an old shoe or a fish on the line and a stout leader it’s easy enough to pass the elastic limit, but does that happen in casting as well? Thanks Chas

If you ask most people at what point a rod is stressed the most, then many of them will tell you that it is in playing a fish.  This is not the case. The basic maximum stress condition for a rod, when used correctly, is when casting. Most modern rods can stand a great deal more stress in this respect than is generally realised.  What they can not stand is shock loading under stress. If you jerk a rod when it is already loaded with a "dead weight", either played out fish, old shoe etc etc then it is highly likely to break. Solid glass fibre rods were probably the most robust rods to date.  Carbon fibre suffers from one or two disadvantages here. Even a slight nick in the surface of a blank can cause sudden massive failure, sometimes the blank will simply shatter without warning. More rods are broken by various extraneous factors than by casting.  The failure might indeed occur when casting, but is usually the result of some other fault. Car doors, falling down on the rod, excessive heat, leaning a rod on a stone and nicking it, ramming the tip into a tree, etc etc. Constantly overloading a rod by casting full lines etc, which are way over the rated weight will usually cause a blank failure as well of course. Most rods broken while actually fishing, do so for a number of reasons, the main one directly fishing related, is getting snagged, putting a good bend in the rod, and then jerking it.  This will quite easily snap a carbon fibre blank, or shatter it . The sudden extreme shock loading under stress is more than the rod can handle. The second most common reason is trying to lift a long line, especially a sunken one, without first roll-casting the line to the surface. Attempting to do this will break most rods. The sudden massive loading is once again more than they can stand. The third most common reason is attempting to land a fish by holding the rod almost vertically, and allowing it to bend over ninety degrees from the vertical. The fish plunges, and the rod simply snaps at the tip. No major exertions are required here by the way, doing the same thing while threading a line through the rings  will also snap a rod tip quite easily. What often happens here, is that the rod is bent, and then the blank "rolls" suddenly changing the stress patterns in the blank walls, and causing it to break. Occasionally rods are broken when fighting very large fish, but this is again an error on the part of the angler. It should normally be impossible for a fish to break a rod, given sufficient angling skill, and correct tackle.. Holding a rod in the fingers and bending it, is also very dangerous. Especially with fine tips. Assuming a rod in good condition, no nicks etc. And also assuming correctly matched line, and reasonable casting, and correct use, then the likelihood of breaking a rod is actually very low indeed. TL MC

Response:

"Mike Connor" wrote This is not a matter of taking sides I hope. Otherwise I will simply retire from the discussion. This is a technical discussion and nothing more.

Of course, my sloppy wording betrayed me. Apart from that, you are perfectly correct. Although the rod loading generated by hauling is inconsequential, irrespective of the current loading state of the rod.  When the rod is already optimally loaded, and as you say at its stiffest, the added loading generated by hauling is so small as to be insignificant. This is just as well, as if hauling did in fact appreciably increase rod loading, then an already optimally loaded rod would simply fold up under the added strain.

You didn’t comment on my second reason.  Does this make sense to you?      A second reason that the loading is not the key is that you could achieve the same additional loading if you just applied a bit more casting force.  We know that a man of modest strength and a good haul can outcast a muscle man who doesn’t haul.

Thanks Chas

Response:

If it were so that hauling dramatically increased rod loading, then hauling on an already optimally loaded rod would cause it to fold up.

I’ve been mean to a few rods at times, putting a #10 line in a #8 rod and casting Pike flies for instance, but I’ve never managed to break one casting.  Is this because most of my fishing has been with Graphite or Glass? I have to dig back into some old Physics books to get the details, but I remember stress and strain curves for various materials showing a linear relationship until a limit was released, and then additional stress produced excessive strain until the material failed.  Certainly with an old shoe or a fish on the line and a stout leader it’s easy enough to pass the elastic limit, but does that happen in casting as well? Thanks Chas

Response:

When you haul you’re loading the rod by making it work harder against the inertia of the line. I don’t really think "shortening the line" is a good way to look at it. A haul takes in maybe two or three feet of line, and you have maybe 30 feet or more out. I agree with what you’re saying, but I can "cast" nearly thirty feet by using only my right arm as the rod (with fingers in O shape to act as the tiptop) and a lefthand haul. So there’s more to it than just the rod tip.

Your finger is playing the role of the rod tip in that case. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text —— Original Message —– Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2000 6:33 AM This would be correct if the line was fixed at the rod tip. When hauling it is not. It moves more or less freely through the guides. The force applied is applied directly to the line, independent of the rod loading.  The "equal and opposite reaction" in this case, is immediate line acceleration due to a direct pull, and is independent of the rod. Some of this force( a relatively small amount actually ) does indeed go towards the total rod loading, but compared to the force which is transferred to the line, this may be more or less ignored. I’m afraid you’re missing the point, Mike. It’s really irrelevant whether the line is fixed or free to move through the guides. There is a force exerted on the line, by the rod tip, that accelerates the line. There is a force equal in magnitude and opposite in direction on the rod tip. That force has the effect of bending the rod. The greater the force, the more the line is accelerated, and the more the rod is bent (i.e., loaded). None of this force can be "ignored". The force generated by "hauling" is not "applied directly" to the line. It’s applied though the loaded, and increasingly loaded, rod. The acceleration is induced by a direct pull on the line, and is only possible because the line is indeed able to move independent of the rod tip. The point is, that when you haul, the line moves, and the rod does not, or only slightly. Thread your rod up with a line. Lay the line out and point the rod straight down the line.  Grasp the line at the butt, and pull sharply. The rod has not been loaded in any way, but the line will spring towards you. The direct pull moves the mass directly. Do the same thing holding the rod at an angle to the line, The same thing occurs, with a relatively small proportion of the applied force bending the rod tip slightly, if at all. Progressively increase the angle until the rod is at right angles to the line. At this point the maximum possible rod loading, under these circumstances, will occur when you pull on the line, nevertheless, the majority of the energy involved still goes towards moving the line, the tip will barely move. It is quite immaterial how hard, how long, or how fast you pull. The energy is transferred directly to the line. The rod is barely affected. The angle of the rod changes the vector, and the rod loads a little, due to friction mainly, but the majority of the energy involved goes into moving the line. If it were so that hauling dramatically increased rod loading, then hauling on an already optimally loaded rod would cause it to fold up. This is not the case. The result of hauling is dramatically increased linespeed, because of the direct application of force to the line.  You dont have to believe me, just try it. This is also incidentally why striking a fish with a pull on the line is better than doing it with the rod. The force applied is transferred more or less directly, with very little loss, to the hook point. The rod does not move much,  and  is not loaded appreciably. Only the line moves. If you strike with the rod, you must first load it, before you can apply any force at all, and because of the mechanical disadvantage involved, the force you transfer will be minimal, and indirect. The principles are the same in both cases. In one case you are transferring energy to accelerate a mass using the short end of a flexible lever, and in the other case you are doing it by giving a direct pull.  The lever is in the second case quite immaterial, and may be ignored. TL MC Again, there’s no "direct" pull on the line. ALL the force affecting the airborne line is generated at the rod tip. If you lay  a piece of string along a table top, and pull one end, depending on the force and speed with which you pull, you can accelerate the string quite easily, giving it very considerable momentum. The string accelerates immediately, simply as a result of the pull. No rods etc are involved. The only force involved is the direct pull. Sure, but that’s not what’s happening when the line is strung though a rod. You (the caster) can exert a force on the line in your left (hauling) hand, but the only force that can be exerted on the airborne line *outside* the rod is exerted at the rod tip. Before hauling was discovered, the line momentum was indeed totally dependent on the acceleration of the rod tip. With hauling, this is no longer the case.  When hauling, the extra line velocity is independent of the rod tip. I’m not saying *anything* about the acceleration of the rod tip. I’m only saying that the force on the line (outside the rod) is generated ONLY at the rod tip. Where else? — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

This is not a matter of taking sides I hope. Otherwise I will simply retire from the discussion. This is a technical discussion and nothing more. Apart from that, you are perfectly correct. Although the rod loading generated by hauling is inconsequential, irrespective of the current loading state of the rod.  When the rod is already optimally loaded, and as you say at its stiffest, the added loading generated by hauling is so small as to be insignificant. This is just as well, as if hauling did in fact appreciably increase rod loading, then an already optimally loaded rod would simply fold up under the added strain. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – RW,     I have to side with Mike here, for a couple reasons.  If the haul is done right, it happens when the rod is fully loaded.  At that point it’s at it’s stiffest, and the flex isn’t increased much by the added force.  The reaction force is actually the force you apply with your line hand when you haul the line in.      A second reason that the loading is not the key is that you could achieve the same additional loading if you just applied a bit more casting force.  We know that a man of modest strength and a good haul can outcast a muscle man who doesn’t haul.      Also, there is direct pull on the line, the guides are like pulleys.  If you consider an 18 inch haul, and watch the effect on the rod tip, I bet it’s drawn back less than 4 inches.  The other 14 inches were directly applied to the line. Chas

Response:

This would be correct if the line was fixed at the rod tip. When hauling it is not. It moves more or less freely through the guides. The force applied is applied directly to the line, independent of the rod loading.  The "equal and opposite reaction" in this case, is immediate line acceleration due to a direct pull, and is independent of the rod. Some of this force( a relatively small amount actually ) does indeed go towards the total rod loading, but compared to the force which is transferred to the line, this may be more or less ignored.

I’m afraid you’re missing the point, Mike. It’s really irrelevant whether the line is fixed or free to move through the guides. There is a force exerted on the line, by the rod tip, that accelerates the line. There is a force equal in magnitude and opposite in direction on the rod tip. That force has the effect of bending the rod. The greater the force, the more the line is accelerated, and the more the rod is bent (i.e., loaded). None of this force can be "ignored". The force generated by "hauling" is not "applied directly" to the line. It’s applied though the loaded, and increasingly loaded, rod. The acceleration is induced by a direct pull on the line, and is only possible because the line is indeed able to move independent of the rod tip.

Again, there’s no "direct" pull on the line. ALL the force affecting the airborne line is generated at the rod tip. If you lay  a piece of string along a table top, and pull one end, depending on the force and speed with which you pull, you can accelerate the string quite easily, giving it very considerable momentum. The string accelerates immediately, simply as a result of the pull. No rods etc are involved. The only force involved is the direct pull.

Sure, but that’s not what’s happening when the line is strung though a rod. You (the caster) can exert a force on the line in your left (hauling) hand, but the only force that can be exerted on the airborne line *outside* the rod is exerted at the rod tip. Before hauling was discovered, the line momentum was indeed totally dependent on the acceleration of the rod tip. With hauling, this is no longer the case.  When hauling, the extra line velocity is independent of the rod tip.

I’m not saying *anything* about the acceleration of the rod tip. I’m only saying that the force on the line (outside the rod) is generated ONLY at the rod tip. Where else? — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Additional rod loading when hauling is  minimal.  Most of the force used is transmitted directly to the line, increasing its speed immediately and drastically. Momentum = Mass * Velocity

I have to doubt that additional rod loading is minimal, Mike. The only way the caster can increase the speed of the line is by accelerating it. The only way he can accelerate it is by exerting a force on the line at the rod tip. (F=ma). An equal and opposite force is exerted on the rod at the tip, which results in loading the rod. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

This would be correct if the line was fixed at the rod tip. When hauling it is not. It moves more or less freely through the guides. The force applied is applied directly to the line, independent of the rod loading.  The "equal and opposite reaction" in this case, is immediate line acceleration due to a direct pull, and is independent of the rod. Some of this force( a relatively small amount actually ) does indeed go towards the total rod loading, but compared to the force which is transferred to the line, this may be more or less ignored. The acceleration is induced by a direct pull on the line, and is only possible because the line is indeed able to move independent of the rod tip. If you lay  a piece of string along a table top, and pull one end, depending on the force and speed with which you pull, you can accelerate the string quite easily, giving it very considerable momentum. The string accelerates immediately, simply as a result of the pull. No rods etc are involved. The only force involved is the direct pull. Before hauling was discovered, the line momentum was indeed totally dependent on the acceleration of the rod tip. With hauling, this is no longer the case.  When hauling, the extra line velocity is independent of the rod tip. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Additional rod loading when hauling is  minimal.  Most of the force used is transmitted directly to the line, increasing its speed immediately and drastically. Momentum = Mass * Velocity I have to doubt that additional rod loading is minimal, Mike. The only way the caster can increase the speed of the line is by accelerating it. The only way he can accelerate it is by exerting a force on the line at the rod tip. (F=ma). An equal and opposite force is exerted on the rod at the tip, which results in loading the rod. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

One other point.  Inertia is the direct measurement of a mass.  The only way to change inertia is to change the mass. One may not "break" inertia.  One may overcome it, ( move the mass) by applying force. Newtons laws explain this relatively simply. The first law states that:  " A body will remain at rest, or continue to move steadily in a straight line without acceleration unless it is acted on by an unopposed force. The second law states: "The acceleration of a body depends directly on the force acting on it but inversely upon its mass" The third law states: "For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction" Force is a measure of the rate at which momentum is changed. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Additional rod loading when hauling is  minimal.  Most of the force used is transmitted directly to the line, increasing its speed immediately and drastically.

Response:

I sure hope you’re not breaking your wrist with this arm cast, which would be very bad form, you know. JR – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I agree with what you’re saying, but I can "cast" nearly thirty feet by using only my right arm as the rod (with fingers in O shape to act as the tiptop) and a lefthand haul. So there’s more to it than just the rod tip. In fact, in a blindfold test I can’t tell the difference between a Cabelas rod and my own arm :)

Response:

So, In your estimation, does your wrist have a fast action or slow action and how does it affect your distance?

Well, it’s not a limp wrist I’ll tell you that much :) And while it *is* acting as the rod tip, it’s not loading in the same sense as a fly rod is it? Isn’t most of the line action due to acceleration because I’m pulling on it (and not wrist flip caused by the pulling)? –Steve

Response:

RW,     I have to side with Mike here, for a couple reasons.  If the haul is done right, it happens when the rod is fully loaded.  At that point it’s at it’s stiffest, and the flex isn’t increased much by the added force.  The reaction force is actually the force you apply with your line hand when you haul the line in.      A second reason that the loading is not the key is that you could achieve the same additional loading if you just applied a bit more casting force.  We know that a man of modest strength and a good haul can outcast a muscle man who doesn’t haul.      Also, there is direct pull on the line, the guides are like pulleys.  If you consider an 18 inch haul, and watch the effect on the rod tip, I bet it’s drawn back less than 4 inches.  The other 14 inches were directly applied to the line. Chas

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This would be correct if the line was fixed at the rod tip. When hauling it is not. It moves more or less freely through the guides. The force applied is applied directly to the line, independent of the rod loading.  The "equal and opposite reaction" in this case, is immediate line acceleration due to a direct pull, and is independent of the rod. Some of this force( a relatively small amount actually ) does indeed go towards the total rod loading, but compared to the force which is transferred to the line, this may be more or less ignored. I’m afraid you’re missing the point, Mike. It’s really irrelevant whether the line is fixed or free to move through the guides. There is a force exerted on the line, by the rod tip, that accelerates the line. There is a force equal in magnitude and opposite in direction on the rod tip. That force has the effect of bending the rod. The greater the force, the more the line is accelerated, and the more the rod is bent (i.e., loaded). None of this force can be "ignored". The force gener ated by "hauling" is not "applied directly" to the line. It’s applied though the loaded, and increasingly loaded, rod. The acceleration is induced by a direct pull on the line, and is only possible because the line is indeed able to move independent of the rod tip. Again, there’s no "direct" pull on the line. ALL the force affecting the airborne line is generated at the rod tip. If you lay  a piece of string along a table top, and pull one end, depending on the force and speed with which you pull, you can accelerate the string quite easily, giving it very considerable momentum. The string accelerates immediately, simply as a result of the pull. No rods etc are involved. The only force involved is the direct pull. Sure, but that’s not what’s happening when the line is strung though a rod. You (the caster) can exert a force on the line in your left (hauling) hand, but the only force that can be exerted on the airborne line *outside* the rod is exerted at the rod tip. Before hauling was discovered, the line momentum was indeed totally dependent on the acceleration of the rod tip. With hauling, this is no longer the case.  When hauling, the extra line velocity is independent of the rod tip. I’m not saying *anything* about the acceleration of the rod tip. I’m only saying that the force on the line (outside the rod) is generated ONLY at the rod tip. Where else? — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

So, In your estimation, does your wrist have a fast action or slow action and how does it affect your distance? Paul

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – When you haul you’re loading the rod by making it work harder against the inertia of the line. I don’t really think "shortening the line" is a good way to look at it. A haul takes in maybe two or three feet of line, and you have maybe 30 feet or more out. I agree with what you’re saying, but I can "cast" nearly thirty feet by using only my right arm as the rod (with fingers in O shape to act as the tiptop) and a lefthand haul. So there’s more to it than just the rod tip. In fact, in a blindfold test I can’t tell the difference between a Cabelas rod and my own arm :) –Steve

Response:

Additional rod loading when hauling is  minimal.  Most of the force used is transmitted directly to the line, increasing its speed immediately and drastically. Momentum = Mass * Velocity A very short haul of a couple of inches is sufficient to increase line speed drastically, and thus increase its momentum, allowing the mass to be thrown a greater distance. The harder(force), longer ( distance) and faster( time) the haul, the greater the resulting line momentum, independent of the rod.  The same effect may be observed without using a rod at all. Shortening line decreases the mass, and therefore reduces momentum.  As far as hauling is concerned this is more or less negligible. Shortening the line by even a couple of feet, does not reduce its mass by much. If you overload the rod, the haul will still be effective, but due to the rod already being overloaded, additional strain, even slight, due to shock loading might damage it. Otherwise the length of line ( total mass ) is irrelevant when hauling. The effect is the same with or without a rod, and with any length of line. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – From what I’ve always been told,  the reason that hauling improves the line speed is that additional loading is put into the rod by the action of hauling. Obviously the hauling is done during the power phases fore and aft.  An immediate reaction of the hauling action is a shortening of the line,  and therefore an increase in velocity:  Is it at all significant compared to the additional loading of the rod?  Is the inertia of the line broken by the haul and therefore allows the spring of the rod to work on an already moving line? I suppose the way to test it out would be to overline a rod and cast a sufficient length of line to overload the rod.  Would hauling be effective? According to the simple haul/loading spring idea,  the haul would (perhaps) be ineffective, though the shortening of the line (derived from the haul) would still prevail?

Response:

When you haul you’re loading the rod by making it work harder against the inertia of the line. I don’t really think "shortening the line" is a good way to look at it. A haul takes in maybe two or three feet of line, and you have maybe 30 feet or more out.

I agree with what you’re saying, but I can "cast" nearly thirty feet by using only my right arm as the rod (with fingers in O shape to act as the tiptop) and a lefthand haul. So there’s more to it than just the rod tip. In fact, in a blindfold test I can’t tell the difference between a Cabelas rod and my own arm :) –Steve

Response:

From what I’ve always been told,  the reason that hauling improves the line speed is that additional loading is put into the rod by the action of hauling. Obviously the hauling is done during the power phases fore and aft.  An immediate reaction of the hauling action is a shortening of the line,  and therefore an increase in velocity:  Is it at all significant compared to the additional loading of the rod?  Is the inertia of the line broken by the haul and therefore allows the spring of the rod to work on an already moving line? I suppose the way to test it out would be to overline a rod and cast a sufficient length of line to overload the rod.  Would hauling be effective? According to the simple haul/loading spring idea,  the haul would (perhaps) be ineffective, though the shortening of the line (derived from the haul) would still prevail?

Response:

From what I’ve always been told,  the reason that hauling improves the line speed is that additional loading is put into the rod by the action of hauling. Obviously the hauling is done during the power phases fore and aft.  An immediate reaction of the hauling action is a shortening of the line,  and therefore an increase in velocity:  Is it at all significant compared to the additional loading of the rod?  Is the inertia of the line broken by the haul and therefore allows the spring of the rod to work on an already moving line?

When you haul you’re loading the rod by making it work harder against the inertia of the line. I don’t really think "shortening the line" is a good way to look at it. A haul takes in maybe two or three feet of line, and you have maybe 30 feet or more out. Imagine what would happen if the end of the line were attached to a springy tree branch when you hauled. (An all too frequent occurence in my case.) The rod would bend even if you didn’t move it forward. By hauling, you cause an increase in the force exerted by the rod tip on the line. When you haul in the normal, more felicitous case, more or less the same thing happens, but the resistance of the tree branch is replaced by the inertia of the line. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fish » Gift for Love of Your Life

Gift for Love of Your Life

Question:

John, With Christmas upon us … some of us are trying to decide on the perfect gift for the ‘love of our lives’

Glad you posted this!  For those of us in ROFF, it’s probably not hard to imagine what another ROFFian would like for Christmas. But I’d sure like to hear some suggestions for what ROFFians can give their wives.  Now, I’m a lucky flyfisher in that my wife also enjoys ff — but not with the passion and addiction that applies to me. So I’m reluctant to give here something ff-related.  It can seem a bit self-serving — like the idiot husband that gives his wife a new mop! So how about gift selections for the wonderful ladies that so graciously tolerate our peculiar habits? Wes Peterson Who would call himself "liberal," let him love justice. Let him love equality. Let him love compassion and charity. But let him love first, and above all the rest, Liberty.

Response:

With Christmas upon us … some of us are trying to decide on the perfect gift for the ‘love of our lives’ … and with this group … there are probably some great ideas … want to share? I have already gotten the fly vest as a hint that fishing may be on the horizon … but really … what is the real ‘gift’ of 1999 … hope this thread helps others too … John

Ernie’s blood knot tool is the perfect stocking stuffer for a flyfisherman. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

I’ve been dropping some pretty broad hints about Wheatly flyboxes. It’s the perfect gift for the flyfisherman — too expensive for a typical tightwad fisherman to buy for himself, but the finest quality with the patina of Old World tradition. I’m getting my wife and kids a new video/audio system with a DVD player and a satellite dish and receiver. (I’ll make my money back in a year or two by avoiding VHS tape-rental late fees.) I think a couple of Wheatly flyboxes would even the score. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

With Christmas upon us … some of us are trying to decide on the perfect gift for the ‘love of our lives’ … and with this group … there are probably some great ideas … want to share? I have already gotten the fly vest as a hint that fishing may be on the horizon … but really … what is the real ‘gift’ of 1999 … hope this thread helps others too … John —

On Christmas eve he handed his wife a small rectangular gift that rattled loudly. She asked what he did this time as he was quite a kidder. He just told her to open it. When she did she found a box of Cracker Jacks. P.O.’d she got up to leave. He calmed her and got her to open the box. She fished out the prize pouch and A black pearl ring from Neiman’s. Needless to say, the night went much better after that. Tyler Hopper "He’s a High Tech Redneck"

Response:

I’m going to wrap myself up in an aluminum tube manufactured by the Boeing company and have myself shipped to her door. If you do so you will arrive mushed, disheveled, discolored, and with a marred finish.  For your own sake and that of the dear lady use schedule 40 PVC!

… and by all means don’t use UPS! Yes!  Those brown trucks are hot.  Things will *shrivel*  or worse, *shrink*.    Sometimes they get flattened or bent. Dave L.

Response:

the real ‘gift’ of 1999 … hope this thread helps others too … John Gentlemen, Gentleman, Gentlemen, take a sage word of advice from one who appreciates the fair sex with vigor. –(much wisdom snipped) Wayne

        thus spake zarathustra!  when hart speaks on the subject of women, only the unlucky fail to heed his words…         wayno

Response:

I’m going to wrap myself up in an aluminum tube manufactured by the Boeing company and have myself shipped to her door. If you do so you will arrive mushed, disheveled, discolored, and with a marred finish.  For your own sake and that of the dear lady use schedule 40 PVC!

… and by all means don’t use UPS!

Response:

Michael, re-reading my post, I apologize for a poor taste word selection. No slur was intended and it is in fact a great gift idea. jim

No worries Jim! I revel in the friendly "poking"! — Michael Era

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Flyfishing » Llama Packing???? anyone know about Llamas?

Llama Packing???? anyone know about Llamas?

Question:

I’ve been told that the current up-and-coming pack animal is the lowly goat. I’m not kidding. I understand that the forest service uses them as pack animals in Idaho. They are very sure footed and can eat anything. They gotta be cheap, and you can eat them in a pinch or when you’re done with them.                         Dale Lindsley – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve got a really screwed up knee and backpacking is getting very difficult. I’ve seen various pack animals on trails and I’m wondering about Llamas… what do they cost, what kind of care do they require, and what amount of pasture/property do they need? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Jim in Oregon The road goes ever, ever on…..

Response:

I’ve been told that the current up-and-coming pack animal is the lowly goat. I’m not kidding. I understand that the forest service uses them as pack animals in Idaho. They are very sure footed and can eat anything. They gotta be cheap, and you can eat them in a pinch or when you’re done with them.

        That was in 1995 in the Sawtooth NRA.  Might have been tried other places as well.   Didn’t work out and when I was back this summer, the goats were history.  Basically, they don’t do well when the person changes from trip to trip.  They take well to one owner and that’s pretty much it.  Not a good behavior pattern for a stock animal.  That was pretty much the behavior they had when my folks raised goats.  It always took some time before they could deal with changes in owners and routine.  The habit of eating anything was detrimental as well since they kept eating things which poisoned them. They are sure footed, we had to put the corner braces on the fences on the outside, othewise they’d walk up the brace and be gone over the fence.   Usually not far, we’d find them in the rhodendron – flat out with blue protruding tongue – take ‘em to the vet for the antidote. They did make good bar-b-que though.  Meat was a bit tough but I’ve never seen any that a pressure cooker couldn’t soften. Linux.  Isn’t he is the character that drags the blanket around all the time?

Response:

That is a training issue I take mine up to the snow every spring. They carry the X country skis up. The group skis down and one person leads the llamas back down. Como Say Llamas www.llamapacker.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Jim- Funny you should mention Llamas, especially in Oregon. I was up on North Sister this weekend with an extremely experienced climbing friend. Anyway, he told me that one time, forget how long ago, he was up there and ran into a group of folks that had rented some Llamas for the weekend for just your purpose. The intent was to take them into Camp Lake by South Sister. Anyway, they got a ways up the trail and the Llamas absolutely REFUSED to cross snow. They tried and tried and tried, and couldn’t get them to cross snow. They waited a day and tried again. Nope. Not happening. If any of your trips involve snow, I’d check into this. Maybe it was just a training issue, maybe not. As far as I know, Llamas come from snow country but maybe if they’ve never seen it, they don’t want nothin’ to do with it. — Matt Jarvis addressing. I’ve got a really screwed up knee and backpacking is getting very difficult. I’ve seen various pack animals on trails and I’m wondering about Llamas… what do they cost, what kind of care do they require, and what amount of pasture/property do they need? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Jim in Oregon The road goes ever, ever on…..

Response:

And some won’t cross large puddles if they can’t see the bottom. Obviously you want a trained one. Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Jim- …. Anyway, they got a ways up the trail and the Llamas absolutely REFUSED to cross snow. They tried and tried and tried, and couldn’t get them to cross snow…..

Response:

I just rented 2 llamas that hiked from Yosemite to Tahoe 153 miles. they crossed every obstical imaginable. They carried 90#s each and ranged from 8 to 12 miles a day with 1 lay over day. Como Say Llamas www.llamapacker.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – And some won’t cross large puddles if they can’t see the bottom. Obviously you want a trained one. Mike Jim- …. Anyway, they got a ways up the trail and the Llamas absolutely REFUSED to cross snow. They tried and tried and tried, and couldn’t get them to cross snow…..

Response:

Jim- Funny you should mention Llamas, especially in Oregon. I was up on North Sister this weekend with an extremely experienced climbing friend. Anyway, he told me that one time, forget how long ago, he was up there and ran into a group of folks that had rented some Llamas for the weekend for just your purpose. The intent was to take them into Camp Lake by South Sister. Anyway, they got a ways up the trail and the Llamas absolutely REFUSED to cross snow. They tried and tried and tried, and couldn’t get them to cross snow. They waited a day and tried again. Nope. Not happening. If any of your trips involve snow, I’d check into this. Maybe it was just a training issue, maybe not. As far as I know, Llamas come from snow country but maybe if they’ve never seen it, they don’t want nothin’ to do with it. — Matt Jarvis addressing. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve got a really screwed up knee and backpacking is getting very difficult. I’ve seen various pack animals on trails and I’m wondering about Llamas… what do they cost, what kind of care do they require, and what amount of pasture/property do they need? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Jim in Oregon The road goes ever, ever on…..

Response:

Llamas are great on the trail, but you need special expertise to handle them.  They will eat anything that grows along side the trail. Including plants that will kill them.  The Mt. LeConte Lodge in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park is stocked via Llamas.  The handlers take them up the same trail three times a week, and know all the danger areas by heart.  Earlier this spring, a slide made their normal route up the Trillium Gap trail impassable, so they re-routed up Bullhead.  One llama keeled over dead right on the trail, and two others died back at the ranch.  They believe it was from rhoderdendron poisoning. Since then, they started using modified muzzels to prevent re-occurance. Also, even though they are easier on the trails than horses, many National Parks do not recognize this fact. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve got a really screwed up knee and backpacking is getting very difficult. I’ve seen various pack animals on trails and I’m wondering about Llamas… what do they cost, what kind of care do they require, and what amount of pasture/property do they need? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Jim in Oregon The road goes ever, ever on…..

Response:

You might check into goats. Keith – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve got a really screwed up knee and backpacking is getting very difficult. I’ve seen various pack animals on trails and I’m wondering about Llamas… what do they cost, what kind of care do they require, and what amount of pasture/property do they need? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Jim in Oregon The road goes ever, ever on…..

Response:

You might check into goats. Keith

     FWIW..  I was reading a book about flyfishing mountain lakes by a well-known (to fishermen, at least) author.  There was an entire chapter about pack animals.  The author said goats were the best, horses worst, and llamas and all others in between. — Yellowstone TRs:  http://www.cis.ksu.edu/~dha5446/hiking/yellowstone/

Response:

In defence of the llama….They only spit at each other over food or females…unless poorly trained and abused they never spit at people.  In the back country they do less damage than a pair of hiking boots, due to their padded feet.They can be turned loose when at camp and do about the same damage as a deer. Como Say Llamas Llama packing and llama rentals www.llamapacker.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Know they spit when annoyed so duck a lot.One golf course uses them as caddies for the golf bags.Quite a sight-men wearing lime green pants and mauve and chartreuse shirts following a llama that poops all over the place-can’t quite housetrain them. * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

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Know they spit when annoyed so duck a lot.One golf course uses them as caddies for the golf bags.Quite a sight-men wearing lime green pants and mauve and chartreuse shirts following a llama that poops all over the place-can’t quite housetrain them. * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

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I’ve got a really screwed up knee and backpacking is getting very difficult. I’ve seen various pack animals on trails and I’m wondering about Llamas… what do they cost, what kind of care do they require, and what amount of pasture/property do they need? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Jim in Oregon The road goes ever, ever on…..

Response:

I operate a llama packing business in CA, I also rent them. You might check out my site listed below I have some info about them. You need at least 2 llamas, as they are herd animals. If you have an acre that is more than enough. If you are just getting started I would recommend 1 to be trained…..This means trained on the trail, at least a season or a couple hundred miles of loaded trail experience. It will make your experience much more enjoyable as the trained llama will train the green one for you. I do not sell them, but I do know where they are (most of the time). llamas for packing should be tall and narrow, but most important is they have to have the right attitude. I would be more than happy to talk in detail about what to look for. The prices average $500 for an untrained ( or very little) to $1500 for a fully trained llama. As with a backpack and hiking boots, the saddle is the most important part, I recommend the Sopris saddle ( about $600) ouch…worth every penny. David Drewry Como Say Llamas www.llamapacker.com 916 923 0408

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve got a really screwed up knee and backpacking is getting very difficult. I’ve seen various pack animals on trails and I’m wondering about Llamas… what do they cost, what kind of care do they require, and what amount of pasture/property do they need? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Jim in Oregon The road goes ever, ever on…..

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing Flies » The most expensive fly

The most expensive fly

Question:

What’s the most expesive fly you’ve ever bought? I mean a fly that you’ve actually used; not some collector’s item salmon fly mounted in a frame that you hang on the wall. I’ll bet I can top it.

I dunno, I went into the Fishhawk in Atlanta a few years back to buy some BWO, came out with a cane rod and they gave me the flies for free, Does that count? Wayne Knight (remove nospam to respond via mail) Expert in the creation of  wind knots and tailing loops.

Response:

What’s the most expesive fly you’ve ever bought? I mean a fly that you’ve actually used; not some collector’s item salmon fly mounted in a frame that you hang on the wall. I’ll bet I can top it. I dunno, I went into the Fishhawk in Atlanta a few years back to buy some BWO, came out with a cane rod and they gave me the flies for free, Does that count?

It depends, Wayne. How many flies did they "give" you? You’d have to divide the cost of the rod by the number of flies, but then you’d still have the rod. So I guess is doesn’t count. Now if you actually wanted the flies but not the rod, and the only way they’d sell you the flies was with the rod … My most expensive fly was an ordinary beadhead nymph. I was fishing some high water in May, snagged it on the other side of the stream, and took a bath going to retrieve it, ruining the $600 camera I was foolishly carrying. I just got a digital camera but I don’t yet have a waterproof case. (Soon!) I won’t wade in more than 6" of water if I’m carrying it. — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

my own slamon flies but a few I have bought.  I paid $95 for an Art Flick Cream Variant.  Looking back, I think I got soaked.  I have two Poul Jorgensen speys that I paid $60 for the both.  Mary Dette will sell you her dries & nymphs for $2.50 a piece yet.  Fran Betters will tie you on order for 2 bucks per fly.  I much prefer trading, though.  John Gierach has a "Trade Wind" that I tied, and in exchange I have two Labrador drakes, a hopper, and a stonefly.  He is actually a real good tier.  Ed Shenk has a Ruby butterfly of mine (probably in a desk drawer.)  My next target is Gary Lafontaine.  If anybody can give me his mailing address, can I have it?  He won’t answer my emails! Pete C

Response:

I have some gorilla charlies tied from fur gathered from a mature silvertip lowland gorilla by a zoo vet.  The were free but would probably be somewhat difficult  to replace.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What’s the most expesive fly you’ve ever bought? I mean a fly that you’ve actually used; not some collector’s item salmon fly mounted in a frame that you hang on the wall. I’ll bet I can top it. — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

______  In this case, it isn’t a question of ‘expensive’ even though a dry fly tied by George Harvey is now going for $125 each.  There is a limited number of these jewels of dry fly perfection in THIS MANS remaining lifetime.  No George is still with us, (Thank You Lord!) but the fact remains, he is probably ‘thee’ premier dry fly tier in the world.  With eye sight failing, George (The Dry Fly Man) Harvey probably ties the best dry flies in the world.  There is no one his equal or superior.  He is an icon of ‘the craft.’   I can tie dry flies nearly as nice as George Harvey’s but I had tying lessons by  him and I was a very inattentive student.  I watched HOW he USED his hands, his fingers, his wrists.  I spent hours watching him, right by his side in many Eastern Fly Tying Shows.  To watch George tie just ONE FLY is enough information to turn on six more light bulbs in ones head.  It isn’t so much the things you remember but the many little things you miss.  The subtitles, the way the feathers are placed, a dozen things slips by even an experts eye.  One has to see him tie more than one, to get it right. The fact is, a George Harvey tied dry fly is worth more than just money.  I have several dozen of these flies which I have paid George a small fortune for.  He chuckles at my sincerity regarding his value to the world of Fly Fishing.  Those flies are now sitting in a safe.  The question is, would anyone here fish with one of these flies AFTER paying $125 or more for one? I would.  In fact, I do.  They sit on the water, like magic.  He sits on my shoulder watching the drift.   And the trout cometh. Mr. G.   ‘all’s fair with fur or feather’ http://216.55.26.157/vchat/   http://www.gink.com http://www.rodbuilding.com (Bamboo Is Fun) http://www.xink.com 509-243-4100 or 5500

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Flyfishing » Flyfishing for Bass

Flyfishing for Bass

Question:

Can any one recommend the right size fly pole for Bass and small Stripers?                                                 Thanks!

Response:

I HAVE BEEN TOLD TO USE A 6 OR 7 WEIGHT FLY ROD .THAT IS WHAT I AM GOING TO DO THIS SUMMER 97.I CAN HARDLY WAIT. TIE YOUR OWN FLIES AND YOU WILL BE SURPRISED.

Response:

try using a 9ft boron rod…use 7wgt fwd line and use either a popping bus or a deer hair bug tied by one of the catalog co. ll bean dan baily orvis…etc

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Big Cicada Year

Big Cicada Year

Question:

(L. R. Fortney) writes: on the Green, my guide attracted several large browns by tossing some bread into the water.  … he caught a cicada and after being surprised that the underside was chalk white (I wasn’t) he tossed it to the fish.  Fluttering it’s wings, it drifted unmolested over three 20" browns and out of sight down the river. Ignoring the guide’s advice to use one of their ugly black ‘cicada’ imitations, I started fishing a white winged light gray irresistable when we started drifting again…with sufficient success … I think that’s because a lot of Green river trout are pretty tame and a little on the dumb side.

I’m not sure that I follow the train of thought here.  I understand that LRF is sharing his feeling of self satisfaction at two upping the guide by knowing the underbody color of a cicada and catching fish on a light colored fly.  I’m not sure that I understand the point of the rest of the story. I assume that the fish were feeding on the white bread and  it was stated thay they refused the cicada.  So, was the light fly used to simulate the bread or the cicada? :) BTW, tame and dumb are not the same thing.  Fish that see a large number of fly fishers will tolerate human presence.  I’ve seen fish on the Henry’s Fork take naturals with leader draped across their back.  Often, fishing will not disturb their feeding, but they are seldom fooled by imitations. I’ve also seen some very finicky fish feed on bread crumbs, but I never thought to match the hatch… Thanks for the tip :-) Keywords:

Response:

Fishers- An entemologist buddy tells me this is the big year of the 17-year locust (really a cicada) cycle. I drove through Virginia today and he was right! There are tons of them on the road (and windshield), at least in central Va., and they haven’t really started yet. Does anyone have a good pattern for the cicada’s we get out here?  I fished the Green in Utah last year with a cicada and the trout loved it!  : )  I would think these underfed (south)eastern fish would love them too. Any experiences fishing cicadas in the east? Miles — Miles Silman Department of Zoology Duke University

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Fishers- An entemologist buddy tells me this is the big year of the 17-year locust (really a cicada) cycle. I drove through Virginia today and he was right! There are tons of them on the road (and windshield), at least in central Va., and they haven’t really started yet. Does anyone have a good pattern for the cicada’s we get out here?  I fished the Green in Utah last year with a cicada and the trout loved it!  : )  I would think these underfed (south)eastern fish would love them too. Any experiences fishing cicadas in the east? Miles — Miles Silman Department of Zoology Duke University

Miles, I’ve been fishing a cicada hatch for about 3 weeks in Arizona (In an area I’d prefer to keep unamed). I don’t know if they differ much from the east coast to the west coast but the browns have been hitting them really hard and I’ve managed to land a few around 20". I bought some Rainy’s Float Foam (Large and X-Large) and used the improved cicada instructions included in the pack. After making some observations I’ve come up with two different patterns that seem to work well. Pattern 1:   Hook TMC 200R   Used an underwing of white crystal flash   Substituted black elk hair for the light elk hair overwing   Added a very small tuft of white calf hair on top of overwing (optional) Pattern 2:   Hook TMC 200R   Used an underwing of white crystal flash   Substituded black crystal flash for the light elk hair overwing   Added a very small tuft of white calf hair on top of overwing (optional) I’ve tried fishing the light elk hair overwing but have noticed quite a few more refusals. As of late the fish seem to be a little more suspicious of the two patterns given above. So I’m going to try a 2X long hook and may use burnt orange thread or dubbing for the abdomen. I plan to give this new pattern a try this weekend. Good luck, Jeff Anderson

Response:

The New York Times ran a story on the eastern Cicada hatch sometime last week..FYI..These would really be a meal for a trout!

Response:

I fished the Green in Utah last year with a cicada and the trout loved it!

  I’ve found that what they call a ‘cicada’ pattern on the Green has little resemblance to a live cicada.   When we stopped for lunch last year on the Green, my guide attracted several large browns by tossing some bread into the water.  To settle an argument as to whether a live cicada has a red, black, or white underside he caught a cicada and after being surprised that the underside was chalk white (I wasn’t) he tossed it to the fish.  Fluttering it’s wings, it drifted unmolested over three 20" browns and out of sight down the river. Ignoring the guide’s advice to use one of their ugly black ‘cicada’ imitations, I started fishing a white winged light gray irresistable when we started drifting again…with sufficient success that the guide changed his tune and switched my son to the one white fly he had in his box. Naturally, we only had a couple between us and they quickly got chewed to bits.  Granted that their patterns do catch fish…but I think that’s because a lot of Green river trout are pretty tame and a little on the dumb side.   I doubt that very many of our eastern trout are big enough to down a live cicada, and even fewer would be stupid enough to go for a Green river cicada pattern? — Lloyd Fortney —Opinions are mine— Some of my flower and garden JPEG images are at http://www.phy.duke.edu/Faculty/Fortney/LRF_Personal_Home_Page.html

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fish » Fishing near Thunder Bay, Ontario

Fishing near Thunder Bay, Ontario

Question:

I plan to be in Thunder Bay, Ont. in mid-July. Does anyone have suggestions for places to fly fish for trout or smallmouths?

Response:

I am often up in T-Bay on business and I am looking for good spots too, so if anyone has any ideas? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I plan to be in Thunder Bay, Ont. in mid-July. Does anyone have suggestions for places to fly fish for trout or smallmouths?

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing Reel » Video

Video

Question:

I live in Illinois—not exactly the fly fishing capital of the world—and I’m planning a trip out west  (Yellowstone, Grand Tetons, Black Hills) in August.  I’ve never been fly fishing, but I’m determined to give it a try.   I’m getting a basic Orvis Clearwater rod and reel, but I have no idea how to use it.   Does anyone know if there is a video that teaches basic fly fishing techniques, basic info about the types of flies you should use in what conditions, etc.?  Any information about where I might find such a video would Dan Simeone                   (PHONE) 217-333-0850 Station Manager               (FAX) 217-333-7151 University of Illinois

Response:

Try Orvis’ "Fly Fishing School".  It’s an eighty minute video for about $20.00 and covers just about all you would need to know.

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Wasp/Bee repellent

Wasp/Bee repellent

Question:

Can anyone suggest a repellent for wasps and bees. On Monday I was stung twice while training. I will be competing in IMC and apparently the wasps can be a problem when cycling through the fruit orchards. I don’t want to go through the discomfort again and wouldn’t want my worst enemy to go through it either. I did a swim /bike workout yesterday. After putting on my wetsuit I was stung in the right heel. there was no significant swelling which is a plus in my favor. then an hour later on the bike I was stung on the back of my neck. I don’t know what it was but it must have been a wasp or bee. If there is a repellent I will put it on my body and also my bike. I found that the wasps seemed to be attracted to the gatorade that had splashed on the bike frame and bottle. they were landing on both and ’sniffing’ around. Any suggestions would ‘bee’ appreciated!! TriFiend

Response:

The only thing I’ve found that actually works for wasps is lavender (the plant). The fishing clubs usually plant it along the river banks near where I live to keep the little bastards away. I don’t know whether there is a commerical product that does the same. Usually a  bit rubbed into the skin works ok, with the disadvantage that you smell like Joan Collins’ knickers for a while. Most bug repellants only seem to be directed toward mosquitos and midges and you sweat them off anyway. I had quite a lot of success with some tablets I got from a camping/climbing shop that made your sweat unattractive to them. Only problem was after a while I started turning yellow  (ha ha). I now find mosquitos and wasps the ideal motivation for impromptu fartlek sessions, in fact I did a 10K PB after being chased by a Horse fly last month…. really helps with the 5K kick ! tim

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Can anyone suggest a repellent for wasps and bees. On Monday I was stung twice while training. I will be competing in IMC and apparently the wasps can be a problem when cycling through the fruit orchards. I don’t want to go through the discomfort again and wouldn’t want my worst enemy to go through it either. I did a swim /bike workout yesterday. After putting on my wetsuit I was stung in the right heel. there was no significant swelling which is a plus in my favor. then an hour later on the bike I was stung on the back of my neck. I don’t know what it was but it must have been a wasp or bee. If there is a repellent I will put it on my body and also my bike. I found that the wasps seemed to be attracted to the gatorade that had splashed on the bike frame and bottle. they were landing on both and ’sniffing’ around. Any suggestions would ‘bee’ appreciated!! TriFiend

As far as I know, there is no repellent for wasps or bees.  Chances are better of getting stung by a wasp then a bee.  A bee dies after it stings something, so will only sting when bothered, just riding by on a bike will not make it sting you.  As far as wasps, they are natures best terrorists. The best prevention from them is to wear light colored clothing.  They seem to attack dark colored moving objects more that light colored. The reason you see them around the gatorade is because they love sugar. If you want to keep them away from your bike, just use water in the bottles.                                                 Brian

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