Question:
I am planning to buy a decommissioned fishing boat in Holland. The vessel was built in the fifties, and probably has the original engine, a 150 HP Deutz SAM 528. I found nothing on the web concerning this engine (I am waiting for a reply from Deutz). Does anyone know, if parts are still available?
Deutz engines are/were very much used in our inland cargo vessels. Try some of our local shipyards in the Rotterdam area about parts and rebuilding of those engines. If you need some adresses send me an email and I will buy the dutch weekly cargo newspaper and give you a list of shipyards. regards, — Norbert Koster "Sundiver" Diamond aka Halcyon 27 Netherlands e-mail: remove "remove_this" from email adress
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I am planning to buy a decommissioned fishing boat…has the original engine, a 150 HP Deutz SAM 528. …nothing on the web….Does anyone know, if parts are still available?
Try looking at http://www.deutz.de/framee.htm . There’s a gent who sometimes shows his face on this NG and on the TrawlerWorld List …. Paul Kruse. He has done extensive comparisons in the course of selecting engines for two boats that he and his son are building, and is quite knowledgeable. I know that he has quite a bit of information on the Deutz. Also, another fellow on the TWL (Peter Denton) is, I believe, in the final stages of a large trawler he’s building (in his back yard) in which he has installed a Deutz. Regards, John Gaquin m/v Brefnie Queen 32′ Luhrs
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Hmm….I wonder if it’s AIR COOLED! All the Deutz diesels I ever encountered or ran were air cooled. I had some driving 3 phase alternators in Iran that were V-16’s. They ran faultlessly 24/7 and only came down when we changed the oil in 40C desert heat!…. Air cooled, with a fan in a shroud that could fly a jet, with no water jacket, they were VERY LOUD, indeed! You had to wear hearing protection to get within 30 ft of one powered up and running 1500 RPM pulling a load….THAT loud. larry – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am planning to buy a decommissioned fishing boat in Holland. The vessel was built in the fifties, and probably has the original engine, a 150 HP Deutz SAM 528. I found nothing on the web concerning this engine (I am waiting for a reply from Deutz). Does anyone know, if parts are still available? Thanks Peter Kiss Before you buy.
Response:
I am planning to buy a decommissioned fishing boat in Holland. The vessel was built in the fifties, and probably has the original engine, a 150 HP Deutz SAM 528. I found nothing on the web concerning this engine (I am waiting for a reply from Deutz). Does anyone know, if parts are still available? Thanks Peter Kiss Before you buy.
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Question:
Try rec.outdoors.fishing.fly.tying — Regards, Jeff Before you buy.
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There is an excellent fly-tying course at http://www.flyanglersonline.com TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de
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I sort of agree with the kit concept….granted some things are sub-par….but you have to have decided you want to tie and be getting ‘into’ it before you have the knowledge that the things ‘are’ sub par. there are different grades of kits, and you usually get a vidoe or book or two to help you get started….. To a person who knows they want to tie…..piecemeal…..to the curious or don’t forget the local groups like the one you missed…..there are usually more than just Trout Unlimited….. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There is a catch 22 here…If you buy a beginners kit, it is cheap and if you decide tying is not for you, you only loose a few bucks. However the tools are also cheap and that can make tying difficult and annoying. On the other hand, good tools are a pleasure to use however they can be pricey. If possible, get a friend to let you tie or at your local fly shop. If you like it, invest in a nice vice and bobbin. There is an excellent video series on PBS called "flytying, the anglers art". You might try to hunt it down. That’s how I learned to tie. gang, last fall I found out that our local TU chapter was going to offer a free fly tying course in the Jan/Feb time-frame and provide all the materials to anyone that was interested. I asked them to email me when they finalized the dates and a couple of the guys that ran the meeting agreed. To make a long story short, I never got an email and when I finally found out about the course, it was already in the 4th week so I figured I missed all the basic stuff and blew it off (my own fault, of course, I should have been checking on it instead of relying on being notified). Now that I’ve been fishing again for a month, I’m really regretting missing that course and wondering if I could teach myself with a tying kit and a good book or video. I realize it would probably not be a good way to learn, but I don’t know anyone that ties and there are no scheduled courses anywhere near me that I’m aware of. Can anyone recommend a good learners kit and/or setup that would get me started? If I’m just asking for trouble and should bag the idea please let me know that too! Tim
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If it is a full coat of a reasonable ( light) colour, consider cutting it up and dyeing it. Mink makes excellent dubbing, and the guard hairs ( these are the longer hairs ) may be used for hair-wings etc. Cut into strips they make excellent zonker patterns etc. It might however be a good idea to try selling the coat as it is, you may find that the proceeds will keep you in fly-dressing materials for a long time. By the way, mink skins are cheap and easy to come by, any furrier will give you a bundle of them for next to nothing, mink coats seldom are ! 
TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de
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Buying materials separately is usually a much better and more economical idea. Have a look at my site, ( address is in the sig line) there is a little bit about starting fly-dressing there. TL MC
I printed your tool list and will take it shopping. Makes sense to buy the correct amount of the right material. Now I have to decide what to do with this full length mink coat. I have had it for years and my new bride doesn’t want it. She has already released it for tying material. Maybe eel or leach patterns with mink strips? Maybe I can make up a couple of mink reel pouches! — Wayne To fish is human….To release Divine! Before you buy.
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Decide what you want to tie, look up the materials necessary. Buy these. Buy a Thompson pro vice, a good pair of scissors, a ceramic bobbin holder and a pair of medium hackle pliers. A needle glued into a piece of dowel with epoxy, makes a good dubbing needle, and is also used for applying varnish ( head cement) to flies. Start with simple flies. There are some very good kits on the market, but these are invariably quite expensive, and will contain stuff you do not need. Also the amount of certain materials is usually less than you need for a couple of dozen flies. Buying materials separately is usually a much better and more economical idea. Have a look at my site, ( address is in the sig line) there is a little bit about starting fly-dressing there. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de
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Can anyone recommend a good learners kit and/or setup that would get me started? If I’m just asking for trouble and should bag the idea please let me know that too!
The Art of Fly Tying CD-ROM is only $20 these days (www.feather-craft.com). You don’t need a kit. Thompson Pro is a good beginner’s vise and will last a long time. Many experienced tiers still use theirs. You have fished for a year now so should have a good idea of what flies you commonly use. Buy the materials you need for those flies and you will be in good shape. Start with simple flies like wooly buggers or hare’s ear nymphs. Do you trust the guys at the local fly shop? They should be able to get you pointed in the right direction. Mu Mu
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Dr. Slick sounds familiar but I can’t place the name.
Cabela’s has them, as well as most fly shops. — Charlie…
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Oh BTW I’ve found it very handy to also have a pair with a serrated edged for tougher stuff. Mine are cheaper than my "fine" ones and work fine. YMMV — Regards, Jeff Before you buy.
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Equipment caveat: Avoid the cheapo kits. Get decent stuff. If you buy a cheapo kit, your chances of having a positive result are reduced, and you’ll end up throwing it all out because nobody else wants it. Spend twice as much on decent stuff, and if you don’t like it, you can sell it for half what you paid on Ebay. You’re out the same amount of money either way.
Joe, I’m getting lots of good advice here and am leaning toward buying a kit just because I really don’t have anyplace closeby to buy it peice by peice and I can order one from somewhere like Orvis or Cabela’s. What would you consider to be a good kit and not a "cheapo" kit? I also really like the idea of the CD and am going to see if I can find it somewhere. Tim
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At least one pair of fine top quality scissors is more or less essential for fine work on the flies themselves. For everything else normal scissors will do. Keep your fine scissors only for fine work, and do not cut any rough materials or wire with them, and they will last a long time. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de
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Check out the Wiss scissors, which I’ve seen in other stores besides fly shops – made for sewers I guess. There’s a picture on this page: http://www.mwflytying.com/tools/fav_tools.html *Disclaimer: I haven’t used them, I just think they look cool and I’m about to buy some myself.
I have a couple pair of Wiss scissors, a larger one I use for sewing projects and a small one I’ve used for fly tying for many years. Very high quality at a reasonable price.
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I have some but prefer Dr. Slick (scissors that is). — Charlie…
You find those at medical supply/pharmacy houses, fly tying material shops, hardware stores, or fabric shops? Dr. Slick sounds familiar but I can’t place the name. — Wayne To fish is human….To release Divine! Before you buy.
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A pharmaceutical fly shop?…..bet he’s got leaves from bushes to chew on to – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My top tip – get good scissors. Nothing is worse that trying to make that close cut with dull, shitty scissors. Joe F. I just spent some time on Mike Connor’s site. I think I’ll take up "fly dressing" instead of "fly tying", sounds much prettier. Mike makes the same point about the scissors. I’ll be dropping by Harry Murray’s fly shop tomorrow when Dianna and I are on the way up to Big Stoney Creek for trout. Harry is a pharmacist and runs the fly shop and pharmacy together. Perhaps I can compare surgical scissors and "fly dressing" scissors. — Wayne To fish is human….To release Divine! Before you buy.
Response:
Check out the Wiss scissors, which I’ve seen in other stores besides fly shops – made for sewers I guess. There’s a picture on this page: http://www.mwflytying.com/tools/fav_tools.html *Disclaimer: I haven’t used them, I just think they look cool and I’m about to buy some myself.
I have some but prefer Dr. Slick (scissors that is). — Charlie…
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We do have a question though. What about the quality of the scissors being offered out there. Do we need the speciality scissors or are there commonly available scissors doing the same or better job?
Check out the Wiss scissors, which I’ve seen in other stores besides fly shops – made for sewers I guess. There’s a picture on this page: http://www.mwflytying.com/tools/fav_tools.html *Disclaimer: I haven’t used them, I just think they look cool and I’m about to buy some myself. Regards, Jeff
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….What about the quality of the scissors being offered out there…..
I have no idea of what is offered with kits Wayne, and I suppose that there is a wide variety of types and quality sold in fly shops. What really matters is that they have fine points, are well made of quality material, and that they fit your fingers. The most convenient place to look for scissors that will meet these criteria is a fabric shop. Sewers use a variety of scissors and they come in all sizes. If you’re looking for something more specialized, your local veterinarian or a friend who works at a hospital can turn you on to a bewildering array.
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Tim, I have recently taught myself to tie. I bought a kit, and I’m not upset that I did. It gave me a vise, scissors, bobbin, threader, hooks and some materials. Granted, this stuff isn’t the greatest quality but it got me started. The next thing I did was purchase a book by Skip Morris, Fly Tying made Clear and Simple. This book is great. It can teach anyone to tie. Now that I am better I am ready to upgrade my vise, but the one from the kit has done just fine. When you catch your first fish on a fly you tied yourself, it is all worth it! I highly recommend the Skip Morris book, it has very thorough step by step instructions and great pictures for each step. It is also spiral bound, so that it stays open easily. What I did was bought the book, picked the first few patterns, went to my fly shop and bought the things I needed to tie those. Came home and worked on those few patterns, when I got them down, I went on to the next few patterns, went to the shop for the materials etc…That way I didn’t have to drop hundreds of dollars at once. I have really enjoyed it and am sure you will too. Have fun with your new hobby, J. Day
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My top tip – get good scissors. Nothing is worse that trying to make that close cut with dull, shitty scissors. Joe F.
I just spent some time on Mike Connor’s site. I think I’ll take up "fly dressing" instead of "fly tying", sounds much prettier. Mike makes the same point about the scissors. I’ll be dropping by Harry Murray’s fly shop tomorrow when Dianna and I are on the way up to Big Stoney Creek for trout. Harry is a pharmacist and runs the fly shop and pharmacy together. Perhaps I can compare surgical scissors and "fly dressing" scissors. — Wayne To fish is human….To release Divine! Before you buy.
Response:
Can anyone recommend a good learners kit and/or setup that would get me started? If I’m just asking for trouble and should bag the idea please let me know that too!
I received a Christmas gift last year of a computer CD "The Art of Fly Tying" that has a lot of video clips and audio instruction on various techniques. It’s actually pretty cool. I’m a beginner myself, and I did take a short course from a local shop the year before, but I thought the CD showed a lot of the same stuff (more, actually) just as well, and in some cases better (close up shots). There is no substitute for in-person instruction for feedback, evaluation, and troubleshooting; but if you have no other option, I’d recommend the CD. Equipment caveat: Avoid the cheapo kits. Get decent stuff. If you buy a cheapo kit, your chances of having a positive result are reduced, and you’ll end up throwing it all out because nobody else wants it. Spend twice as much on decent stuff, and if you don’t like it, you can sell it for half what you paid on Ebay. You’re out the same amount of money either way. My top tip – get good scissors. Nothing is worse that trying to make that close cut with dull, shitty scissors. Joe F.
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I sort of agree with the kit concept….granted some things are (snip)
Due to a happy turn of events my wife and I have recently begun to look at fly tying. We will be picking up some basic beginner books and canvassing some local tiers for "hands on" assistance. At least one local fly shop offers "custom kits" made to suit your skill level and the type of fly you wish to tie. They even offer "specialty kits" to tie specific flys. I think we will read and watch and try a few basic flys. This winter we will attend one of the many fly tieing classes being offered. We do have a question though. What about the quality of the scissors being offered out there. Do we need the speciality scissors or are there commonly available scissors doing the same or better job? — Wayne To fish is human….To release Divine! Before you buy.
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Hi Tim, I bought a kit when I first started to learn to tie, that was a mistake. Go down to your local shop and buy a vice, scissors, and a bobbin. You can add to your tools as you see fit. Then ask the guy behind the counter what materials you need to tie the types of flies that you use most, and buy the materials to tie them. Also ask him to recommend a book. I taught myself how to tie and while I’m not the greatest, I do catch fish (occasionally) on my flies. When you buy a kit, you get materials that you may never use. I still have some stuff from my kit and I’ve been tying for about 8 years now. HTH, Darin
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There is a catch 22 here…If you buy a beginners kit, it is cheap and if you decide tying is not for you, you only loose a few bucks. However the tools are also cheap and that can make tying difficult and annoying. On the other hand, good tools are a pleasure to use however they can be pricey. If possible, get a friend to let you tie or at your local fly shop. If you like it, invest in a nice vice and bobbin. There is an excellent video series on PBS called "flytying, the anglers art". You might try to hunt it down. That’s how I learned to tie.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – gang, last fall I found out that our local TU chapter was going to offer a free fly tying course in the Jan/Feb time-frame and provide all the materials to anyone that was interested. I asked them to email me when they finalized the dates and a couple of the guys that ran the meeting agreed. To make a long story short, I never got an email and when I finally found out about the course, it was already in the 4th week so I figured I missed all the basic stuff and blew it off (my own fault, of course, I should have been checking on it instead of relying on being notified). Now that I’ve been fishing again for a month, I’m really regretting missing that course and wondering if I could teach myself with a tying kit and a good book or video. I realize it would probably not be a good way to learn, but I don’t know anyone that ties and there are no scheduled courses anywhere near me that I’m aware of. Can anyone recommend a good learners kit and/or setup that would get me started? If I’m just asking for trouble and should bag the idea please let me know that too! Tim
Response:
My uncle gave me his 1950 Herters fly set-up a couple a years ago. I have been learnin’ ever since. But a starter kit, a few books on the subject, and just start tryin’. Op
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – gang, last fall I found out that our local TU chapter was going to offer a free fly tying course in the Jan/Feb time-frame and provide all the materials to anyone that was interested. I asked them to email me when they finalized the dates and a couple of the guys that ran the meeting agreed. To make a long story short, I never got an email and when I finally found out about the course, it was already in the 4th week so I figured I missed all the basic stuff and blew it off (my own fault, of course, I should have been checking on it instead of relying on being notified). Now that I’ve been fishing again for a month, I’m really regretting missing that course and wondering if I could teach myself with a tying kit and a good book or video. I realize it would probably not be a good way to learn, but I don’t know anyone that ties and there are no scheduled courses anywhere near me that I’m aware of. Can anyone recommend a good learners kit and/or setup that would get me started? If I’m just asking for trouble and should bag the idea please let me know that too! Tim
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – gang, last fall I found out that our local TU chapter was going to offer a free fly tying course in the Jan/Feb time-frame and provide all the materials to anyone that was interested. I asked them to email me when they finalized the dates and a couple of the guys that ran the meeting agreed. To make a long story short, I never got an email and when I finally found out about the course, it was already in the 4th week so I figured I missed all the basic stuff and blew it off (my own fault, of course, I should have been checking on it instead of relying on being notified). Now that I’ve been fishing again for a month, I’m really regretting missing that course and wondering if I could teach myself with a tying kit and a good book or video. I realize it would probably not be a good way to learn, but I don’t know anyone that ties and there are no scheduled courses anywhere near me that I’m aware of. Can anyone recommend a good learners kit and/or setup that would get me started? If I’m just asking for trouble and should bag the idea please let me know that too! Tim
Response:
gang, last fall I found out that our local TU chapter was going to offer a free fly tying course in the Jan/Feb time-frame and provide all the materials to anyone that was interested. I asked them to email me when they finalized the dates and a couple of the guys that ran the meeting agreed. To make a long story short, I never got an email and when I finally found out about the course, it was already in the 4th week so I figured I missed all the basic stuff and blew it off (my own fault, of course, I should have been checking on it instead of relying on being notified). Now that I’ve been fishing again for a month, I’m really regretting missing that course and wondering if I could teach myself with a tying kit and a good book or video. I realize it would probably not be a good way to learn, but I don’t know anyone that ties and there are no scheduled courses anywhere near me that I’m aware of. Can anyone recommend a good learners kit and/or setup that would get me started? If I’m just asking for trouble and should bag the idea please let me know that too! Tim
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Question:
Ok, a mini Internet lecture, for both sides of this thread. The processor speed on the client side (and most likely on the server side) *does not matter*.
[snipped] Exactly true for anyone not gifted with a T-3 connection ;^) But as for the rest of us, Jon, the problem is purely one of end-node bandwidth. For most of us – and for most of the time – the slow loading of George’s page has nothing to do with routers or switches or backbone performance. It’s the bandwidth at the faceplate attached to the wall. Also, as long as we’re in "education mode", if you think that a 48KB file is broken up into a mere dozen packets (or anything even remotely close to that) it’s time for you to go back to school ;^) Packet payloads are measured in tens or hundreds of bytes (check out the spec’s on ATM, for instance), not multi-K’s of bytes… The solution to George’s page is simple: lose the eagle, and make the darned page hierarchical. Put the latest set of events on the first page, and bury the history stuff in a half-dozen underlying pages, arranged in chronological order with links back on the first page. No big deal, don’t have to throw anything way, and it would probably take a half-hour to rearrange what he’s got now into something more practical… Regards, /daytripper (sipping the internet through a really thin straw ;^)
Response:
Ok, a mini Internet lecture, for both sides of this thread. The processor speed on the client side (and most likely on the server side) *does not matter*.
(remainded snipped to unclog the superhighway) Thanks for the explanation Jon. Mark Faulkner
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Jon Cook: <<Which is *still* not related to processor speed. What you’re talking about is modem speed — and I’ll still go out on a limb and say that any endpoint with modem above 33K or so will still suffer from *internal* Internet congestion, and not just their end-node bandwidth. Heck, I’ve visited the page from a *very* fast connection and have waited minutes for it to load. Gentlemen, gentlemen….. The entire page was too big — since George has fixed it, it loads in very little time, *regardless of when you call it up*. There is very little internet activity at 6 a.m. EDT, yet it took just as long then as it did at 1 pm or 10 pm. The thing was too long. Dave LaCourse
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bytes per. We will try and archive the site as soon as we can or simply erase the majority of it. Your choice.
FYI, the eagle logo is 753×611pixels. It is only displayed in 176×143 pixels. This is not too bright web-design. The client has to download the big image, which is 48K. This is a total waste, since the image displayed on the webpage (176×143) with good compression, should easily be less than 3K (I checked). Additionally, forcing the client to resize the picture, will hog unnecessary CPU. Some clients and machines are pretty bad at doing such things, i.e. try having a mac (a few years old) render a background picture within a table. It will take ages, and one is better off avoiding these possible pitfalls from the server side. Just select "view image" (right click on picture in netscape) to see how big this bastard really is. — Christian Figenschou – <URL: http://figen.com
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – bytes per. We will try and archive the site as soon as we can or simply erase the majority of it. Your choice. FYI, the eagle logo is 753×611pixels. It is only displayed in 176×143 pixels. This is not too bright web-design. The client has to download the big image, which is 48K. This is a total waste, since the image displayed on the webpage (176×143) with good compression, should easily be less than 3K (I checked). Additionally, forcing the client to resize the picture, will hog unnecessary CPU. Some clients and machines are pretty bad at doing such things, i.e. try having a mac (a few years old) render a background picture within a table. It will take ages, and one is better off avoiding these possible pitfalls from the server side. Just select "view image" (right click on picture in netscape) to see how big this bastard really is. — Christian Figenschou – <URL: http://figen.com
— Mr. G. ‘all’s fair with fur or feather’ http://www.gink.com http://www.rodbuilding.com http://www.xink.com 509-243-4100 or 5500
Question:
I have seen a number of books listed in various magizines regarding fishing with a drift boat. Living in the east, I can’t review any of these at a store. I was wondering if anyone has read some of these and can forward a review. Ian
Response:
I have seen a number of books listed in various magizines regarding fishing with a drift boat. Living in the east, I can’t review any of these at a store. I was wondering if anyone has read some of these and can forward a review. Ian
Hi Ian, I can’t steer you toward a book about using and fishing from a drift boat but Lamoine Hyde at the Hyde Drift Boat Company has produced an excellent instructional video about operating and fishing from a drift boat. You can contact them at 208-529-4343 and ask about the video. You won’t be displeased — I’ve been running a drift boat for 14 years and picked up a tip I’ve incorporated into my arsenal of tricks. — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (97 materials catalog) http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html
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I have seen a number of books listed in various magizines
regarding fishing with a drift boat. Living in the east, I can’t review any of these at a store. I was wondering if anyone has read some of these and can forward a review.<< Ian, Neele Streaks, _Drift Boat Fly Fishing_, is by far the best book on the subject. It is full of information on drift boating, but also on fly fishing in general. If drift boating is in your future, sell your shirt and get it. Expensive, but small print and beautiful photography. — Scott Branyan Rogers, AR http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/flyflinger
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I have seen a number of books listed in various magizines regarding fishing with a drift boat. Living in the east, I can’t review any of these at a store. I was wondering if anyone has read some of these and can forward a review. Ian
Neal Streek’s book is pretty good, though maybe a little light on actual boatmanship techniques. "Whitewater Rafting", by William McGinnis, is reasonably good for that.
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Question:
Could someone help me with some info on the patterns which would be best for fishing the Muskegon or Au Sable rivers in Michigan in 2-3 weeks. We are going to Grand Haven to visit my family for 2 weeks and I would like to get some fishing in. I tie my own, so if you can suggest any conventional pattern, or give me a short description for local patterns I would be eternally grateful. Thanks, Jack Holton Denver, CO "Rasthedog"
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Look up the "white-gloved Howdey" in Caucci and Nastasi’s book, Hatches II. I use size 14. The book also has hatch charts that can really help. Could someone help me with some info on the patterns which would be best for fishing the Muskegon or Au Sable rivers in Michigan in 2-3 weeks. We are going to Grand Haven to visit my family for 2 weeks and I would like to get some fishing in. I tie my own, so if you can suggest any conventional pattern, or give me a short description for local patterns I would be eternally grateful. Thanks, Jack Holton Denver, CO "Rasthedog" Regards, John Sirmans
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Could someone help me with some info on the patterns which would be best for fishing the Muskegon or Au Sable rivers in Michigan in 2-3 weeks. We
Call Steve Southard, owner of the fly factory in Grayling MI at (517) 348-5844. He should be able to give you some info. Rusty Gates also has a nice shop up there, but I don’t have his number handy. . Lenny Bloksberg . .
Response:
Rusty Gates phone #: 517-348-8462; Johnson’s Pere Marquette Lodge 616-745-3972. All three places (incl. the Fly Factory) should also be able to provide you with a guide if you are unfamiliar with the water. have fun – should be plenty of salmon in the waters in mid-Sept.
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Organization: IQuest Network Services X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.91.6 (AnnRMiller) says: Rusty Gates phone #: 517-348-8462; Johnson’s Pere Marquette Lodge 616-745-3972. All three places (incl. the Fly Factory) should also be able to provide you with a guide if you are unfamiliar with the water. have fun – should be plenty of salmon in the waters in mid-Sept.
There are a couple web sites you might try: http://www.novagate.com/~bscheere/bens.html (Ben’s flyfishing corner, contains info on PM, Ausable, Muskegon and Kalamazoo rivers) http://oeonline.com/~rmarsh/fishpg.html (Ricks flyfishing page, contains info on Ausable) For hatches you’ll probably see BLO, trico’s and caddis. Tight lines, Bob
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