Question:
Any opinions on what will be hatching this Thursday, with 90 degree weather last week, snow today, and low water? On the river I’ll be fishing, on 4/25 I would expect the end of the Quill Gordons, some Blue Quills, the beginning of the Hendricksons, maybe some Shad Fly caddis. But, with the odd weather, heaven knows what’s happening and I’d appreciate some opinions, founded in current observation or not. Thanks in advance. Glenn GKT
Response:
Any opinions on what will be hatching this Thursday, with 90 degree weather last week, snow today, and low water? On the river I’ll be fishing, on 4/25 I would expect the end of the Quill Gordons, some Blue Quills, the beginning of the Hendricksons, maybe some Shad Fly caddis. But, with the odd weather, heaven knows what’s happening and I’d appreciate some opinions, founded in current observation or not.
How are the water temps compared to what they would normally be? IMO, that is a very important, if not THE most important, part of the "equation." — Warren change addy to yahoo for email Henry’s Fork Clave info and Bozeman, MT fishing info http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt3/HFclave.html
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I think you’re right but I won’t know the exact temperature for that stream until I get there. They are probably near normal now, most likely following a small spike during the four hot days. GlennHow are the water temps compared to what they would normally be? IMO, that is a very important, if not THE most important, part of the "equation." — Warren change addy to yahoo for email Henry’s Fork Clave info and Bozeman, MT fishing info http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt3/HFclave.html
GKT
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I think you’re right but I won’t know the exact temperature for that stream until I get there. They are probably near normal now, most likely following a small spike during the four hot days.
Sometimes you can get water temps from the USGS Streamflow reports. Look around http://mt.waterdata.usgs.gov/nwis/help/?redirect=rt_www_redirect — Warren change addy to yahoo for email Henry’s Fork Clave info and Bozeman, MT fishing info http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt3/HFclave.html
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Question:
I figure tying your own pays around $3 per hour. It has to be a labor of love.
Well, it is. And flies tied with the local knowledge angle are nearly always better. Way better. bruce h
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4. Green Butt Skunks (If you want you can collect about 3 dozen of these, from me, by looking at low hanging branchs on the Clackamas in OR)
Hehee…Christian, if you’re interested, I’ll work out a swap with you. I’ll send you directions to a collection of great flies hanging on the BWO-eating Boxwood, which is right upstream of the Hendrickson-eating Hardwoods and slightly west of the Adams-eating Ash (not to be confused with the Cahill-chewing Conifer) directly across from the…. Zippy Who decorates trees year round regardless of which holiday season is in effect
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On the glow bugs, I was taught my Jeff at Kaufmanns how to do that and my is it easy. You tie the material on just like you would bar bell eyes and wind your thread as tight as you can underneath the materia, getting it to stand up as straight as you canl. Cut it to the desired length and presto it is a ball that wraps around the hook…neat as hell…(I guess you would have to see it done, but it is very easy) Padishar Creel — who ties all his own flies except those he buys and those that actually catch fish…<g
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Do you guys tend to buy or tie your own flies?
I tie my own flies and only fish with flies I tied. No synthetic material on those flies, no CDC, no foam. Bamboo rod built by hand in my garage. Horse hair leaders. No sinkers or strike indicators, ever. Silk line, no plastic allowed. Click-n-pawl reel; disc drag is an abomination. I always put the fish on the reel, no matter how small the fish. Dry flies only, fished upstream, thank you very much. My floatant is wind and wind alone. To do anything less or anything different would be ungentlemanly. I am a gear jingo. –Steve 
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<quite right and me too , snipped I am a gear jingo.
BY JOVE ! I think he’s got it ! — Ken Fortenberry
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While it’s true that most of the flies I tie wouldn’t win any prizes, the fish don’t seem to give a damn. FiddleAway
Same here. The fish is the best judge IMHO. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html
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[snip] To do anything less or anything different would be ungentlemanly. I am a gear jingo.
Please keep this crap off of roff. There are streamer fishermen here who find it offensive. — Charlie…
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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Do you guys tend to buy or tie your own flies? I tie my own flies and only fish with flies I tied. No synthetic material on those flies, no CDC, no foam. Bamboo rod built by hand in my garage. Horse hair leaders. No sinkers or strike indicators, ever. Silk line, no plastic allowed. Click-n-pawl reel; disc drag is an abomination. I always put the fish on the reel, no matter how small the fish. Dry flies only, fished upstream, thank you very much. My floatant is wind and wind alone. To do anything less or anything different would be ungentlemanly. I am a gear jingo. –Steve
Good one Steve but CDC is natural. Willi
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Good one Steve but CDC is natural.
Regardless. Clearly you are no gentleman 
–Steve
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I have tied about 200 flies for the SJ in January and they’ll all fit easily in one film container Everything for that river is easy to tie except the tiny dries, which I usually buy. $1.50 for a size 24 single adult midge seems like a bargain. $1.50 for a UFO on the other hand… bruce h
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when i travel, i buy locally tied flies to support local tiers and also when i see patterns i don’t know that turn my crank…but i love to tie and i tie maybe 75-80% of my flies…a few of them I even tie well. Eugene Knapik Toronto
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have tied about 200 flies for the SJ in January and they’ll all fit easily in one film container Everything for that river is easy to tie except the tiny dries, which I usually buy. $1.50 for a size 24 single adult midge seems like a bargain. $1.50 for a UFO on the other hand… bruce h
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Do you guys tend to buy or tie your own flies?
Common flies (e.g. wooly buggers, royal coachmen) can be purchased on eBay or from gofishin.com for around 50 cents each. More unusual ones go as high as 75 cents. The same White Wulffs I paid $2.75 each for at a fly shop were 75 cents on eBay. Frogs, mice, crabs, big streamers are a little more (around $1.25). I figure tying your own pays around $3 per hour. It has to be a labor of love. Ken (to reply via email remove "zz" from address)
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Bruiser– I’m thinking of getting into tying just save a little on foam humpies, foam black ants and midges. Your note sounds as if midges {24} are difficult and you perfer to buy. If I am reading you right–why are midges harder to tie if you use some type of magnifier?Indian Joe
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Bruiser– I’m thinking of getting into tying just save a little on foam humpies, foam black ants and midges. Your note sounds as if midges {24} are difficult and you perfer to buy. If I am reading you right–why are midges harder to tie if you use some type of magnifier?Indian Joe
When tying the same pattern, small flies are much more difficult, IMO. There is very little room on the shank of the hook and a very light touch is needed. It isn’t just seeing what you are doing. Your fingers are VERY large when tying a size 24 fly. Willi
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I tie my own flies and only fish with flies I tied. … … To do anything less or anything different would be ungentlemanly. I am a gear jingo.
Steve, I have some cork, a natural product, should you ever run out. FiddleAway
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IJ, What I meant was, I buy the tiny dries (except maybe comparadun and griffiths) and tie all the nymphs and emergers, which are super easy once you get the hang of it. Yes I use magnification. The little dries, like tiny parachute adams, bwo parachute, and single adult midge patterns are impossible for me. bruce h
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While it’s true that most of the flies I tie wouldn’t win any prizes, the fish don’t seem to give a damn. FiddleAway
true with me as well…I don’t catch many fish whether they’re my own or store bought!
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Do you guys tend to buy or tie your own flies?
I do both. I do a bit of both, but seems like I buy quite of few of the patterns that I can’t create worth a damn.
I’m not sure of your point (or question). The only way to get better is practice, but if you don’t want to get better (or even tie, and there’s nothing wrong with either), I see nothing "wrong" with buying. If you only use a few flies of "quite (a) few..patterns," you’re probably better off cost-wise in buying them, esp. if they are patterns that utilize the more-expensive materials. IMO, tying is more a related "hobby" as opposed to a cost-saving measure (there are a few exceptions). Plus, it gives you a good, relatively inexpensive excuse to frequent fly shops in that you truly are buying essential FF’ing items – whether you buy ‘em or tie ‘em, you gotta have ‘em. TC, R
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Do you guys tend to buy or tie your own flies? I do a bit of both, but seems like I buy quite of few of the patterns that I can’t create worth a damn.
While it’s true that most of the flies I tie wouldn’t win any prizes, the fish don’t seem to give a damn. FiddleAway
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I tie all my flies except in these situations: 1. I do not have the materials ( I have been collecting alot of material so this does not happen often ) 2. I have never tied that fly, but hear it’s the ‘go to’ fly for my next fishing adventure. I’ll buy one to copy. 3. Egg patterns ( I have not figured out glo-bugs and I’m not pouring plastics) Flies I really enjoy tying: 1. Soft Hackles (that and they work great) 2. Balsa wood bass poppers 3. Spun deer hair flies Flies I end up tying most of the time: 1. Soft Hackles 2. Adams 3. Wolly Buggers 4. Green Butt Skunks (If you want you can collect about 3 dozen of these, from me, by looking at low hanging branchs on the Clackamas in OR)
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Do you guys tend to buy or tie your own flies? I do a bit of both, but seems like I buy quite of few of the patterns that I can’t create worth a damn.
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I tie virtually all my own flies and love doing so, there are occasions in the peak of the season where I am unable to keep up and need to restock from commercial supplies. Clark Guided Flyfishing in paradise! http://www.dryflynz.cjb.net
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I tie most flys I use often, like bead heads and wooly buggers..I buy most dries, i’m not a very good tyer. Tim Apple Do you guys tend to buy or tie your own flies? I do a bit of both, but seems like I buy quite of few of the patterns that I can’t create worth a damn.
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Do you guys tend to buy or tie your own flies? I do a bit of both, but seems like I buy quite of few of the patterns that I can’t create worth a damn.
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I tie most flys I use often, like bead heads and wooly buggers..I buy most dries, i’m not a very good tyer. Tim Apple
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Do you guys tend to buy or tie your own flies? I do a bit of both, but seems like I buy quite of few of the patterns that I can’t create worth a damn.
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Do you guys tend to buy or tie your own flies?
Personally, I tie my own. I do a bit of both, but seems like I buy quite of few of the patterns that I can’t create worth a damn.
I buy one as an example to take home as an aid so that I can tie my own. I have this thing about not fishing with flies I didn’t tie myself. I seldom use flies that were either bought or given to me by a friend unless I am totally out of the pattern and have nothing that will substitute. When I met Lou Teletski in Yellowstone we had a little "mini-fly swap" which was pretty cool. It was fun seeing some of the patterns I have heard many of the ROFFians back east talk about that are not popular out here. I stuck the flies in my collection of patterns, which I keep as examples, and have since tied a few of my own duplicates. It is kind of nice doing it this way because you always have the original example pattern and still get the pleasure of tying/using your own flies. The more I practice, the better the pattern turns out and eventually I can make a halfway decent replica. — Warren www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt
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Harry Mason: For one thing the big bugs show the mistakes in a much larger format :-) Proportion is displayed in all its glaring reality much more in larger bugs. One can cheat on big flies.
Don’t you mean "one can NOT cheat on big flies"? After receiving a book on Carrie Stevens, I went out and bought all the feathers and stuff to tie her flies. Boy, do little mistakes show up as big ones when you are tying a size 2 8x. I am keeping the 1st Grey Ghost and Rapid River that I have tied. Hopefully, somewhere down the line, I will improve, especially with the proportions. But, right now, I am struggling. I want these to be perfect, and I doubt I have the knowledge/skill at this point. Dave LaCourse
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Anything with knotted Pheasant tail legs. I have to have a few Islay malts first. Maybe that’s the problem.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I know we all would rather tye our flies than buy them for a number of reasons, but…… What six bugs would you like to purchase because you find tying them a hassle or time consuming or both or what ever ? I’ll start… 1 Royal Wullf 2 Kauffman stones 3 small humpy 4 no hackles 5 prince….my fav 6 muddler style flies Harry Mason www.troutflies.com
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When I go on an extended trip, I always take along my tieing gear. When I get there (wherever) there always seems to be one fly or another that’s hot that week, and it’s usually something I don’t have in my 500+ on-hand. The question is generally, "Do I want to tie flies, or do I want to fish?" Since I usually fish from dawn to dusk, I end up buying them, regardless of how easy they may be to tie. There’s nothing that I buy instead of tie because of the difficulty. That doesn’t mean mine will turn out as well, however… As a germane aside, my sister is an expert fly tier, as well as an excellent fly fisher. She tied every evening for years, while watching t.v., tackling some of the most difficult for the challenge. Then her house burned up in the Oakland fire and she lost over 4,000 unfished flies. The insurance comany tried to pay her for the hooks, feathers, etc., but finally did settle up for replacement value. Max Before you buy.
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I know we all would rather tye our flies than buy them for a number of reasons, but…… What six bugs would you like to purchase because you find tying them a hassle or time consuming or both or what ever ?
I’m pretty new at this tying thing, so for me it comes down to anything with hackle, anything with wings, and anything with dubbing. :-) I’m getting better, though (I’ve just about got this GRW thing <g). Joe F.
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What six bugs would you like to purchase because you find tying them a hassle or time consuming or both or what ever ?
spun deer hair flies microfibbet tails extended bodied mayflies Mu
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How ’bout #20 Tricos? I bought a bunch from Trout Fitters in Fergus. The things are so small, I had one sitting here on my desk, and it just disappeared on me… I have never had any success with them mind you, but they sure are neat to look at!
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Mike; I found a few tyers like that in England. Incredible flies at a great price. Unfortunately, I’m pretty tight-fisted right now and can’t buy a fly unless I’m using it as a model. Flies that I would rather have made - Tupp’s Indespensible (I don’t have a good source for a ram’s (tupp) scrotum hairs. Frank’s Fightin’ Craw – I get tired when I’m on the 60th fly of the evening. Can’t we just ship them off to Thailand for production? Classic salmon flies – I got to sit down and watch Poul Jorgensen tie at a Partridge of Redditch event for 2 hours. It was awesome. I tried to replicate his efforts and felt woefully inadequate. First flies on the new water – need model flies to figure out the pattern. What does a White Miller Caddis look like if you’ve never seen it and have to get ready for the hatch? Burnt wing flies – you know how many decent wings I’ve torched trying to do this? You know what this smells like? "The fly that the guy at the bottom of the pool is cleaning up with while I’m being skunked." If some one came along the bank and said "hey, want what he’s using? 20 bucks!" I would be on him like buzzards on the renderin’ wagon. Its a testosterone thing. Why did you buy that new Ford 350 pick’em-up wid da V-8 and when your wife would have been happy with a new Ford Focus? Its a testosterone thing. Why do you have tools in your work room that most people just rent? Its a testosterone thing. Why do you wanna jump Anna Nichole Smith’s bones? Hell with testosterone, if you don’t you be dead. Frank "stream of conciousness" Reid Before you buy.
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How ’bout #20 Tricos? I bought a bunch from Trout Fitters in Fergus. The things are so small, I had one sitting here on my desk, and it just disappeared on me… I have never had any success with them mind you, but they sure are neat to look at!
______ Probably kidnapped and raped by real Tricos. Those little bugs are real gang bangers. Those little suckers can catch you the largest trout of your life on a dry Ian. I wish we could get together on a river or three I have in mind regarding these little devils. It is perhaps the most exciting kind of dry fly fishing any man could hope for, my friend. — Mr.Gink "the saga continues" http://www.gink.com/
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For me, anything smaller that 18, I would rather buy, my ole eyes can’t take it much any more. I love fishing the tiny fly in the tiny stream. chris
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I know we all would rather tye our flies than buy them for a number of reasons, but…… What six bugs would you like to purchase because you find tying them a hassle or time consuming or both or what ever ? I’ll start… 1 Royal Wullf 2 Kauffman stones 3 small humpy 4 no hackles 5 prince….my fav 6 muddler style flies Harry Mason www.troutflies.com
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1. Dave’s Hopper, 2. Dave’s Hopper…6. Dave’s Hopper Lou
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I know we all would rather tye our flies than buy them for a number of reasons, but…… What six bugs would you like to purchase because you find tying them a hassle or time consuming or both or what ever ? I’ll start… 1 Royal Wullf 2 Kauffman stones 3 small humpy 4 no hackles 5 prince….my fav 6 muddler style flies Harry Mason www.troutflies.com
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Those of us that do tye and there lots of reasons not to :-) do have patterns that we just hate . Clipped Deer hair seems to head the list. Small bugs are intimidating to some but IMO they can and usually are a easier to build than the big ones. For one thing the big bugs show the mistakes in a much larger format :-) Proportion is displayed in all its glaring reality much more in larger bugs. One can cheat on big flies. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -How ’bout #20 Tricos? I bought a bunch from Trout Fitters in Fergus. The things are so small, I had one sitting here on my desk, and it just disappeared on me… I have never had any success with them mind you, but they sure are neat to look at!
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<< I know we all would rather tye our flies than buy them for a number of reasons, but…… I guess I am an odd duck in the world of fly fishing but I hate tying flies. I love building rods and wrapping the guides but fly tying drives me nuts. For years I forced myself to tie due to the high prices in the fly shops but I finally found a store that sells high quality flies for .50 each. For the first time in years, my fly box is full of dry flys of every size shape and color. I have enjoyed fishing this a lot more because I don’t go through the pre-trip tying grind. So I guess my vote is for all of them. Mike
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Easy, anything with stacked, compressed and clipped deer hair. I hate spinning and clipping deer hair – the fly usually ends up looking like shit. I can never get it compressed enough without bending the hook or breaking something and when I clip it, it looks like it just lost a fight with a chainsaw. Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html
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Question:
I am looking for a source of soft hackle for size #18,16,14 flies. The ruffed grouse and hangarian standard breast hackle I have are two long. It would be nice to have a naturally barred brown/tan feather but I would settle for a hen neck, preferably barred, and preferrably dyed. Does anyone have a suggestion? JK
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Try www.blueribbonflies.com/ They usually have a great many quail and partridge soft hackle skins. Ralph Wood C & R Guide Service www.wildtrout.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I am looking for a source of soft hackle for size #18,16,14 flies. The ruffed grouse and hangarian standard breast hackle I have are two long. It would be nice to have a naturally barred brown/tan feather but I would settle for a hen neck, preferably barred, and preferrably dyed. Does anyone have a suggestion? JK
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John Kaufmann schrieb in Nachricht I am looking for a source of soft hackle for size #18,16,14 flies. The ruffed grouse and hangarian standard breast hackle I have are two long. It would be nice to have a naturally barred brown/tan feather but I would settle for a hen neck, preferably barred, and preferrably dyed. Does anyone have a suggestion? JK
Hi John, There is a strain of dwarf partridges commonly kept by people who have aviaries. Their hackles are perfect for small soft hackles. They are not quite as robust as the normal partridge hackles, but they make great wet flies. There is also a strain of quail with similar feathers. Ask around at your local poultry or bird fanciers association, once they realise you are serious about it, it will literally rain dead birds ! Dont say I didnt warn you ! <G Just about the only other alternative is to look for freak coloured hen necks and dye them yourself. The game bird feathers are better though. Tight lines ! Mike Connor
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Look here: http://expage.com/page/tyesupplies
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0] : I am looking for a source of soft hackle for size #18,16,14 flies. The : ruffed grouse and hangarian standard breast hackle I have are two long. : It would be nice to have a naturally barred brown/tan feather but I would : settle for a hen neck, preferably barred, and preferrably dyed. : Does anyone have a suggestion? : JK There is a technique shown in Dave Hughes’ book "Wet Flies" for using larger hackle when there is no alternative. You tie in and wrap the hackle at a position down the shank that is the amount the fibers are too long. Then you fold the fibers forward toward the eye and close wrap them with thread up to the position you would normaly tie the hackle. Then you fold the fibers back and wrap in front of them to stand them up and tie off. It’s less than ideal, the fibers are a little stiffish in relation to the size of the fly, but it will get you fishing with something in that size. Another suggestion is to get a whole partridge skin including the neck whose feathers are around the sizes you want. The ones I’ve seen lately run around $25. Poking around fly shops in my area, I have found these small "speckled hen" backs in quite a variety of natural grays and brown. I think they come from India, but I’m not sure. There are some fairly small feathers on these that are ok for #18. Mike — Michael McGuire Hewlett Packard Laboratories (remove x’s from email if not Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971 a spammer) Phone: (650)-857-5491
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John, How bout stripping the (too long) hackle fibers off the quill and, holding them in your right hand, work them over the eye of the hook to where you want them, to the length you want, and wrapping them in with the thread in your left hand. You don’t usually want a real heavy hackle on soft hackle flies anyhow, right? Takes a little practice, but it works. I think it’s called ‘paint brush style’. See ya Will – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am looking for a source of soft hackle for size #18,16,14 flies. The ruffed grouse and hangarian standard breast hackle I have are two long. It would be nice to have a naturally barred brown/tan feather but I would settle for a hen neck, preferably barred, and preferrably dyed. Does anyone have a suggestion? JK
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Question:
3. I have always presumed that the two air bladders which provide a back support on my floatube are ample to at least keep me afloat. Is this a naive assumption.
It is more likely you will flip upside down and drown than lose all three air bladders. Ernie Harrison
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3. I have always presumed that the two air bladders which provide a back support on my floatube are ample to at least keep me afloat. Is this a naive assumption.
I think that the assumption is correct BUT: These tubes are not attached to your body. That is you have to make sure you can hold on to them one way or another. Maybe more critical is hypo thermia. If your main flotation fails, the chances are that you are going to get wet. Depending on conditions and time immersed, this can lead to great trouble. William Buchman
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I already posted this once, but got no responses. So I’m going to try once more to see if I can get some answers. If you remember responding to my first post, let me know by e-mail. This will let me know that for some reason, I am not seeing all of the messages posted to this board. Thanks -dnc- Some of the recent posts on float tube and wader safety have really opened my eyes to the issue. Thanks to all for the fair warning. But now I have more questions. 1. The ‘Sea Hunt’ solution: Remember when scuba diver Mike (Lloyd Bridges) used to save the day with one of those little, autoinflatable ‘balloons’ he kept handy? Do those devices still exist. Seems like the perfect solution; non bulky, yet there when you really need it. Anyone have any knowledge on such devices and how well they work, etc. 2. If I were to tip over backwards in my floatube as I was exiting the water, it seems like the right thing to do would be to (a) disengage the quick release on the strap that connects the seat to the tube (b) reach up and push the tube away as I slide my feet out of the tube. i.e. I come out of the tube the same way I usually do (except for the fact that I’m upside down). This seems like the common sense way to do it, but is it the optimal solution when you are in very shallow water (say, just deep enough so you can’t use your arms to push your head above water). 3. I have always presumed that the two air bladders which provide a back support on my floatube are ample to at least keep me afloat. Is this a naive assumption. 4. I forgot, if you do fall into a strong current, you try to keep your feet pointed downstream: correct? Seems like you have the double problem of keeping your head away from rocks and also trying to keep water out of your waders.
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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I already posted this once, but got no responses. So I’m going to try once more to see if I can get some answers. If you remember responding to my first post, let me know by e-mail. This will let me know that for some reason, I am not seeing all of the messages posted to this board. Thanks -dnc- Some of the recent posts on float tube and wader safety have really opened my eyes to the issue. Thanks to all for the fair warning. But now I have more questions. 1. The ‘Sea Hunt’ solution: Remember when scuba diver Mike (Lloyd Bridges) used to save the day with one of those little, autoinflatable ‘balloons’ he kept handy? Do those devices still exist. Seems like the perfect solution; non bulky, yet there when you really need it. Anyone have any knowledge on such devices and how well they work, etc. 2. If I were to tip over backwards in my floatube as I was exiting the water, it seems like the right thing to do would be to (a) disengage the quick release on the strap that connects the seat to the tube (b) reach up and push the tube away as I slide my feet out of the tube. i.e. I come out of the tube the same way I usually do (except for the fact that I’m upside down). This seems like the common sense way to do it, but is it the optimal solution when you are in very shallow water (say, just deep enough
You can now get CG approved inflatable PFD’s. You should always wear a PFD in your tube. (some places it’s the law) You should ALWAYS wear a belt around the ouside of your waders high enough to prevent water from spilling into them & regulate the amount you take in. Be Safe!! Bill D. so you can’t use your arms to push your head above water). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 3. I have always presumed that the two air bladders which provide a back support on my floatube are ample to at least keep me afloat. Is this a naive assumption. 4. I forgot, if you do fall into a strong current, you try to keep your feet pointed downstream: correct? Seems like you have the double problem of keeping your head away from rocks and also trying to keep water out of your waders.
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Question:
"I’m taking week long trip in June/July to this area. Any
great recommendations on streams/rivers to flyfish on? << Spent some time in Kalispell last fall. This is definitely northwest Montana and it is stunningly beautiful but it is no hotspot for flyfishing. I fished all the streams in the Kalispell/Whitefish area and averaged about 0.5 fish per hour. Two forks of the Flathead River border Glacier National Park on the West and South. These are gorgeous rivers and you’d never regret spending a day on them but they’re not very fertile. Don’t get me wrong – there are plenty of fish but nothing like the famous Montana streams of the Yellowstone area and elsewhere. There is a very nice fly shop in Whitefish (can’t remember the name) where you can get flies and advice. If you go to this area, YOU MUST VISIT GLACIER NATIONAL PARK. It rivals anyplace on earth for beauty. Tim
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: Podell writes:
: "I’m taking week long trip in June/July to this area. Any great : recommendations on streams/rivers to flyfish on? I need something wide : enough to backcast on, as I still spend an inordinate amount of time in : the trees on narrow streams….." : In Montana, try the Madison, the Gallatin, the Beaverhead, the : Jefferson, the Big Hole, the Missouri, and the Yellowstone if you don’t : want to travel very far (there are dozens more within a short drive). : Then, of course there are all of the rivers of Yellowstone Park. Not to beat a dead horse… but none of these rivers are in Northwest Montana, either. Mr. Hugh, do you own resort property or something?<g There are many other rivers in the Montana/Idaho region other than around Bozeman/Big Sky. Rick — T. Rick Fletcher – http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Assistant professor of chemistry | That’s Idaho, not Iowa. | These University of Idaho | Upper Left Hand Corner. | opinions Moscow, ID 83844-2343 | No, I don’t grow potatoes. | are mine.
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Podell writes:
"I’m taking week long trip in June/July to this area. Any great recommendations on streams/rivers to flyfish on? I need something wide enough to backcast on, as I still spend an inordinate amount of time in the trees on narrow streams….." Wow, are you in for a surprise and some fun. You are going to be on some rivers where a backcast would have to be hundreds of feet long to get into trouble. There are some BIG rivers to fish. Certainly try the Henry’s Fork in the Harriman State Park, the Teton and perhaps the Falls rivers in Idaho. In Montana, try the Madison, the Gallatin, the Beaverhead, the Jefferson, the Big Hole, the Missouri, and the Yellowstone if you don’t want to travel very far (there are dozens more within a short drive). Then, of course there are all of the rivers of Yellowstone Park. You are going to have to do some serious narrowing down of the options! but you will have fun. Don’t overlook using guides if you can afford it. Many of these rivers are best floated rather than waded. Dallas, TX Ennis, MT
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: Podell writes:
: "I’m taking week long trip in June/July to this area. Any great : recommendations on streams/rivers to flyfish on? I need something wide : enough to backcast on, as I still spend an inordinate amount of time in : the trees on narrow streams….." : trouble. There are some BIG rivers to fish. Certainly try the Henry’s : Fork in the Harriman State Park, the Teton and perhaps the Falls rivers in : Idaho. Ummm…none of these rivers are in *Northern* Idaho. But I must agree he is in for a nice surprise. Rick — T. Rick Fletcher – http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Assistant professor of chemistry | That’s Idaho, not Iowa. | These University of Idaho | Upper Left Hand Corner. | opinions Moscow, ID 83844-2343 | No, I don’t grow potatoes. | are mine.
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I’m taking week long trip in June/July to this area. Any great recommendations on streams/rivers to flyfish on? I need something wide enough to backcast on, as I still spend an inordinate amount of time in the trees on narrow streams…..
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