Question:

Yes, that’s the one.  The part I’m trying to remember is the way he attached the turning wheel to the small gear that sticks out of the motor.  My motor has a gear that’s only about 1/4 inch in diameter, so there isn’t much to work with.  Maybe I need to epoxy this to a larger item like the pulley Sandy suggested. Thanks Chas What did the turner look like? Was it the one with the motor mounted on a bookend or are you referring to something else? Walter

Fix underscore in address to reply If you are referring to the turner on the bookend then its the one I made. I didnt post the pictures to ABPF but put them on my website. I have since taken those down but can send the pictures to you if you like. What I used to attach the foam wheel to the motor was a short piece of tubing. I epoxyed the tubing to the foam and just slip it on the the motor shaft. My motor shaft was smooth however, and it was 1/4" O.D. It didnt have a gear on the end. So I am not sure if the tubing will stay put your motor shaft. On this one it works great however. I didnt want to glue the tubing to the motor because it gives me the ability to change the wheel if I want. I hope this help. Good luck. Walter

Response:

It’s one inch PVC.  He (Haag) was telling me he had it in a FF magazine article.  Maybe some one in this NG has seen it.  Sure worked slick. Lou

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m having a hard time visualizing this one.  My motor is a small motor with a small gear sticking out one end.  All that PVC stuff would be too heavy for the bearings in this motor. Thanks Chas There’s a tier with the last name of Haag.  He mounts the closed end of a PVC end cap to the motor shaft-Drill a hole in the center and two nuts with washers to tighten.  Then a 2" piece of the PVC pipe.   An end cap with a hole in it over the PVC pipe.  Another end cap butting against the last end cap.  A long bolt through the two end caps with a spring and thumb nut to adjust slipage.  A long piece of PVC pipe stuck into the last end cap A styrofoam disc from the craft shop on the end of the pipe.  A support as needed.  Don’t glue the pipes together.  You can hold the drying disc and the slip[ joiunt allows the motor to turn.   He had a Bar-B-Que motor on the rig I saw. Lou Fix underscore in address to reply

Response:

Did a quick search.  The tyer’s name is John Haag.  His number is (631) 286-2148.  He ties at the North eastern shows.  I saw him at College Park, MD,  Somerset, NJ, and ashton, PA.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m having a hard time visualizing this one.  My motor is a small motor with a small gear sticking out one end.  All that PVC stuff would be too heavy for the bearings in this motor. Thanks Chas There’s a tier with the last name of Haag.  He mounts the closed end of a PVC end cap to the motor shaft-Drill a hole in the center and two nuts with washers to tighten.  Then a 2" piece of the PVC pipe.   An end cap with a hole in it over the PVC pipe.  Another end cap butting against the last end cap.  A long bolt through the two end caps with a spring and thumb nut to adjust slipage.  A long piece of PVC pipe stuck into the last end cap A styrofoam disc from the craft shop on the end of the pipe.  A support as needed.  Don’t glue the pipes together.  You can hold the drying disc and the slip[ joiunt allows the motor to turn.   He had a Bar-B-Que motor on the rig I saw. Lou Fix underscore in address to reply

Response:

Yes, yours was the one I was looking for.  Looking at Snady’s pictures, I think I’ll try that direction for the attachment.  My shaft is just too small and short for the tubing to get enough purchase.

perhaps this will help? http://192.41.19.35/austin/swedish.wav Mu

Response:

I guess I left myself open for that one. Thanks Mu, Chas Yes, yours was the one I was looking for.  Looking at Snady’s pictures, I think I’ll try that direction for the attachment.  My shaft is just too small and short for the tubing to get enough purchase. perhaps this will help? http://192.41.19.35/austin/swedish.wav Mu

Fix underscore in address to reply

Response:

I guess I left myself open for that one. Chas

Nothing personal.  I was just trying to beat Wolfgang and Charlie to the punch Mu

Response:

No luck here either. A hint in the form of the post numbers with photo attachments would be great.  ….Dave

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you go to the following group you’ll find 3 pictures of a fly curing wheel with a nice simple clutch. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/flytyersbench/ Anyone else find that this yahoo site does not work for them?  I cannot access any photos. Mu Hi Mu, Same here.  And I get a pop up advertising for a video camera of sorts. sPect it was a troll. DaveMohnsen Denver

Response:

Folks, I have just posted 3 pics of a fly turner at alt.binaries.pictures.fishing. Tarpon10

No luck here either. A hint in the form of the post numbers with photo attachments would be great.  ….Dave

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you go to the following group you’ll find 3 pictures of a fly curing wheel with a nice simple clutch. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/flytyersbench/ Anyone else find that this yahoo site does not work for them?  I cannot access any photos. Mu Hi Mu, Same here.  And I get a pop up advertising for a video camera of sorts. sPect it was a troll. DaveMohnsen Denver

Response:

I put some (home made turner) images at: http://montana-riverboats.com/pages/pages.php?page_title=Glue_Turner

Response:

That’s why I couldn’t find it. Yes, yours was the one I was looking for.  Looking at Snady’s pictures, I think I’ll try that direction for the attachment.  My shaft is just too small and short for the tubing to get enough purchase. Thanks for your help. Chas – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you are referring to the turner on the bookend then its the one I made. I didnt post the pictures to ABPF but put them on my website. I have since taken those down but can send the pictures to you if you like. What I used to attach the foam wheel to the motor was a short piece of tubing. I epoxyed the tubing to the foam and just slip it on the the motor shaft. My motor shaft was smooth however, and it was 1/4" O.D. It didnt have a gear on the end. So I am not sure if the tubing will stay put your motor shaft. On this one it works great however. I didnt want to glue the tubing to the motor because it gives me the ability to change the wheel if I want. I hope this help. Good luck. Walter

Fix underscore in address to reply

Response:

A while back someone posted some nice pictures on abpf of a home made turner.  I’ve got the parts now, and I’m trrying to find those pictures.  I have my own archive that must include it, but I just can’t find it. The key idea I’m looking for is the connection between the motor’s shaft and the turning wheel. Was it RW who designed it? Thanks Chas Fix underscore in address to reply What did the turner look like? Was it the one with the motor mounted on a bookend or are you referring to something else? Walter

Response:

Was it RW who designed it?

I think it was.  He was answering questions on it this evening. You will have to wait until he wakes up. (or does he ever wake up?) George

Response:

Hi, If you go to the following group you’ll find 3 pictures of a fly curing wheel with a nice simple clutch. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/flytyersbench/ Regards

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A while back someone posted some nice pictures on abpf of a home made turner.  I’ve got the parts now, and I’m trrying to find those pictures.  I have my own archive that must include it, but I just can’t find it. The key idea I’m looking for is the connection between the motor’s shaft and the turning wheel. Was it RW who designed it? Thanks Chas Fix underscore in address to reply

Response:

…Then fire that baby up and let ‘er rip…

…at 3 rpm. — TBone The Halfordian Golfer

Response:

A while back someone posted some nice pictures on abpf of a home made turner.  I’ve got the parts now, and I’m trrying to find those pictures.  I have my own archive that must include it, but I just can’t find it. The key idea I’m looking for is the connection between the motor’s shaft and the turning wheel. Was it RW who designed it?

I don’t have photos of my turner. I’ll make some this evening. I went to the local electrical supply store (where electricians buy their boxes and fixtures) and bought a low-rpm (6 rpm I believe) gear motor, for $25. I mounted that onto an angle bracket with nuts and bolts. I drilled three 1/8" holes into the rim of a 3" pulley. I put the pulley onto the shaft of the gear motor. I cut the bottom off a 5 gallon drywall bucket, leaving a 4" rim. I drilled 3 holes in the bottom of the bucket that matched the holes in the metal pulley (that’s attached to the shaft of the motor). I glued 1/2" foam onto the outside of the 4" bucket rim. Works like a champ.

Response:

If you go to the following group you’ll find 3 pictures of a fly curing wheel with a nice simple clutch. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/flytyersbench/

Anyone else find that this yahoo site does not work for them?  I cannot access any photos. Mu

Response:

If you go to the following group you’ll find 3 pictures of a fly curing wheel with a nice simple clutch. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/flytyersbench/ Anyone else find that this yahoo site does not work for them?  I cannot access any photos. Mu

Hi Mu, Same here.  And I get a pop up advertising for a video camera of sorts. sPect it was a troll. DaveMohnsen Denver

Response:

There’s a tier with the last name of Haag.  He mounts the closed end of a PVC end cap to the motor shaft-Drill a hole in the center and two nuts with washers to tighten.  Then a 2" piece of the PVC pipe.   An end cap with a hole in it over the PVC pipe.  Another end cap butting against the last end cap.  A long bolt through the two end caps with a spring and thumb nut to adjust slipage.  A long piece of PVC pipe stuck into the last end cap  A styrofoam disc from the craft shop on the end of the pipe.  A support as needed.  Don’t glue the pipes together.  You can hold the drying disc and the slip[ joiunt allows the motor to turn.   He had a Bar-B-Que motor on the rig I saw. Lou

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A while back someone posted some nice pictures on abpf of a home made turner.  I’ve got the parts now, and I’m trrying to find those pictures.  I have my own archive that must include it, but I just can’t find it. The key idea I’m looking for is the connection between the motor’s shaft and the turning wheel. Was it RW who designed it? Thanks Chas Fix underscore in address to reply

Response:

Yes, that’s the one.  The part I’m trying to remember is the way he attached the turning wheel to the small gear that sticks out of the motor.  My motor has a gear that’s only about 1/4 inch in diameter, so there isn’t much to work with.  Maybe I need to epoxy this to a larger item like the pulley Sandy suggested. Thanks Chas What did the turner look like? Was it the one with the motor mounted on a bookend or are you referring to something else? Walter

Fix underscore in address to reply

Response:

I’m having a hard time visualizing this one.  My motor is a small motor with a small gear sticking out one end.  All that PVC stuff would be too heavy for the bearings in this motor. Thanks Chas – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There’s a tier with the last name of Haag.  He mounts the closed end of a PVC end cap to the motor shaft-Drill a hole in the center and two nuts with washers to tighten.  Then a 2" piece of the PVC pipe.   An end cap with a hole in it over the PVC pipe.  Another end cap butting against the last end cap.  A long bolt through the two end caps with a spring and thumb nut to adjust slipage.  A long piece of PVC pipe stuck into the last end cap   A styrofoam disc from the craft shop on the end of the pipe.  A support as needed.  Don’t glue the pipes together.  You can hold the drying disc and the slip[ joiunt allows the motor to turn.   He had a Bar-B-Que motor on the rig I saw. Lou

Fix underscore in address to reply

Response:

Can you provide a picture of your motor? George

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m having a hard time visualizing this one.  My motor is a small motor with a small gear sticking out one end.  All that PVC stuff would be too heavy for the bearings in this motor. Thanks Chas There’s a tier with the last name of Haag.  He mounts the closed end of a PVC end cap to the motor shaft-Drill a hole in the center and two nuts with washers to tighten.  Then a 2" piece of the PVC pipe.   An end cap with a hole in it over the PVC pipe.  Another end cap butting against the last end cap.  A long bolt through the two end caps with a spring and thumb nut to adjust slipage.  A long piece of PVC pipe stuck into the last end cap A styrofoam disc from the craft shop on the end of the pipe.  A support as needed.  Don’t glue the pipes together.  You can hold the drying disc and the slip[ joiunt allows the motor to turn.   He had a Bar-B-Que motor on the rig I saw. Lou Fix underscore in address to reply

Response:

A while back someone posted some nice pictures on abpf of a home made turner.  I’ve got the parts now, and I’m trrying to find those pictures.  I have my own archive that must include it, but I just can’t find it. The key idea I’m looking for is the connection between the motor’s shaft and the turning wheel. Was it RW who designed it? Thanks Chas Fix underscore in address to reply

Response:

The key idea I’m looking for is the connection between the motor’s shaft and the turning wheel. Was it RW who designed it?

Not me. I’m a theoretician. P.S. Try pulleys ans O-rings. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

R.W.?  If you can send me a picture of your motor or post it on binaries, I may be able to explain how we do it.  I use a lot of these motors and maybe yours is the type that has a neat solution. George

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The key idea I’m looking for is the connection between the motor’s shaft and the turning wheel. Was it RW who designed it? Not me. I’m a theoretician. P.S. Try pulleys ans O-rings. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

R.W.?  If you can send me a picture of your motor or post it on binaries, I may be able to explain how we do it.  I use a lot of these motors and maybe yours is the type that has a neat solution.

It’s all in the pulleys and the O-rings. Get the type of pulleys that lock down on the shaft with a screw, fitted as closely as possible to the shaft, and make the O-rings yourself, to size, with a little tension. Then fire that baby up and let ‘er rip. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Question:

Our general river opener is June 1st so you need to plan. I suggest the Yakima, year round water, good range of hatches, suggest you call Patricks Fly Shop (Seattle) or Morning Hatch Flyshop in Tacoma for conditions and advise. Float it for app. $350 for two all day from Elllensburg down Canyon. Lots of bank access also and drive down canyon in spring is great. Fair access for wading in upper canyon between E-burg and Cle Elum. The Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie is also open all year, smaller river, lots of small trout. Overall best bet is to take I-90 over Snoqualmie Pass, get off about four miles West of Cle Elum if you want to eat in Roslyn, or off at Cle Elum onto State Route 10, you can access the river right away if you take right to "North Cle Elum" just as you come into town. If you pay close attention to the lay of the land you will spot the access points east of town off route 10.  Follow RT 10 on down the upper canyon. The road winds lots so be careful. Access points are to the right of highway. Thru the village of Thorp and back onto I-90 to Ellensburg. Get off onto State 97 to follow river down. First access is at Thrall (just some Potato Packing sheds) to right on Ringer Road to a State F&G boat put in and parking lot. Further down river access is generally obvious off the road down to the Rosa dam. You can definitely get to the river on foot at Ringer, Umtanum, and above Red’s Riverview campground. Watch for Desert Big Horn Sheep on slopes in Canyon. Canyon Road will take you into Selah and back end of Yakima. Can take I-82 back to I-90 and home.  I don’t want to be a weenie but I do emphasize you drive carefully on 10 and 97. The country is big and scenic and it tends to pull your eyes off the road. Lots of trucks, log and ag, ripping down road. Don’t count on all hazards to be marked or the access roads to be civilized. Ellensburg has lots of motels, expensive off I-90 exits, but cheap sportsman digs are up road in town. Its a small college town (Central Washington State). Ellensburg veal and lamb are very good, even by Nebraska standards. Some great bars in old section of town. Flys: BWOs, Cahill wets, little brown stones, small nymphs, western March Brown,  ask Patricks Out on the coast the Steelhead will close down April 30th for a month. If you planned it right you could try the Bogachiel, Sol Duc etc.. With two days I wouldn’t recommend it. Lots to see out there but be prepped for weather. If you wanted to be casual about the fish, but see a great sample of the NW, and drive your ass off try this: Go over the pass and down to Yakima like I said above, go south thru the Yakima Indian Res. to Goldendale and then down the Columbia Gorge to Vancouver/Portland and back up I-5 to Tacoma/Seattle. Overnight at Goldendale. (Double ditto on what I said on the roads for the stretch between Goldendale and the Columbia River.  You would see more of the working NW than most ever see, and the pix would be spectacular, guaranteed. Now, Im in Scottsbluff in mid April. Any recommends for NW Nebraska in mid April? Dave Snedeker – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My (flyfishing) wife and I are going to be in Tacoma, WA May 26 – 30. We will be bringing our travel rods (4 weight) with us.  We’ll have two days for fishing.  Any suggestions for rivers/streams for trout withing a two hour drive of Tacoma would be appreciated.  I’m not looking for anyone’s honey hole, just a general location where access is not too rigorous All suggestions will be appreciated (also any clues as to what flies I should tie for the trip would be a big help). Thanks. Jim Impara

Response:

My (flyfishing) wife and I are going to be in Tacoma, WA May 26 – 30. We will be bringing our travel rods (4 weight) with us.  We’ll have two days for fishing.  Any suggestions for rivers/streams for trout withing a two hour drive of Tacoma would be appreciated.  I’m not looking for anyone’s honey hole, just a general location where access is not too rigorous All suggestions will be appreciated (also any clues as to what flies I should tie for the trip would be a big help). Thanks. Jim Impara

Response:

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello! Just one warning from disappointed customer! I had an accident in last august and i broke my Orvis rod. Of course my rod has so called no questions asked quarantee for 25 years since i’m the original owner. So i left my rod in local dealer which send it to local importer – This all happened in during august last year and now it is the beginning of the fishing season and the rod is still in repair!! Nice work Orvis – it is the last of your rods that i’m going to buy! I would be even willing to pay for a decent repair time but this is ridiculous. May this Orvis 25year quarantee means that i have to now wait for 23 years to get my rod repaired… Disappointed customer -Timo ps. IMHO No questions asked quarantees are not good for fly fishing – i’m afraid that smaller rod makers will suffer eventually since the amount of broken rods will increase when the rods gets older…

Same with me Timo, I had similar problem with Orvis in the Netherlands. Their unconditional waranty works great in USA, but outside you will have to wait about a full year to get your repair done or your rod replaced. I changed to Sage and my local dealer replaces every broken (if ever) Sage immediately and gets his from Sage within a few weeks. Ger.

Response:

I disagree, Dave. Having broken my PM-10 9′0" 8 wgt rod two years ago, I did some inquiries and found significant turnaround time between going thru the dealer and mailing it back directly to Orvis. My shipping costs were bearable given the fact that it was the height of saltwater season, and it took only 3 weeks to get it back.  Time is money, and when it comes to my fishing time, it’s worth $1000 an hour…. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any Orvis dealer will take care of it for you.  Or you could ship directly to Orvis in Manchester, VT, but you’d pay the shipping charge.  Let your closest Orvis dealer do it.   Dave LaCourse

Response:

<<I disagree, Dave. Having broken my PM-10 9′0" 8 wgt rod two years ago, I did some inquiries and found significant turnaround time between going thru the dealer and mailing it back directly to Orvis. My shipping costs were bearable given the fact that it was the height of saltwater season, and it took only 3 weeks to get it back. First time I broke a rod (tip in a door – dumb), it took 4 weeks — through the dealer.  Second time (butt – fell on it — dumb) it took two weeks.  We’re about even.   Dave L.

Response:

When I needed my PM-10 9-wt replaced (I bought the rod for $145, on "clearance"), I walked into the Orvis Manchester, VT store, and the clerk walked into the back room and came out with a new rod.  I’d have to say it took about 30-40 seconds. Bob Scott Orvis fan

Response:

well that’s still better than a Reddington which is worth nothing – – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -What do you expect them to do after you paid eight times what the rod cost to build? — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail I had great success with the Orvis guarantee.  I bought a trident in early 1997 that was a 1996 model discounted by about $100.00.  I broke the rod in the Summer of 1997 and returned it to my Orvis dealer here in Houston to get it repaired under the guarantee. The manager of the Houston store, Dave Haywood,  loaned me a replacement rod, a brand new Trident, and took my broken rod and sent it to Orvis in VT.  I didn’t even pay shipping charges.  Three weeks later Orvis sent me a brand new trident,  worth over $100.00 more than I had invested in the original rod.  I returned the loaner and have yet to spend a penny or to be inconvenienced much because of the broken rod.  When I think I could have been out a $400.00 rod I become ever more appreciative of the manner in which the whole affair was handled. I am not some crony of the store manager.  I met him when I bought the rod.  He had no reason to treat me any different than anyone else so I have to assume this is standard policy, at least here in the Houston area. It sounds like the troubles experienced with the guarantee are a function of the dealer.  I would bet a direct contact with the Orvis customer service people would get you the action you deserve. Tom

Ralph H note spurious hyperbole, insults and ‘personal attacks’ made by the author are meant to honour "the Soul of Cicero" and are not intended as personal slights. Please don’t take offense as none is intended. remove "(take_this_out)" for email reply.

Response:

Yes, I suppose the Reddington won’t be worth much either since Orvis bought them. — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail GO TO http://users.ccnet.com/~emh FOR TRAVEL TIE BOX PLANS

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – well that’s still better than a Reddington which is worth nothing – What do you expect them to do after you paid eight times what the rod cost to build? — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail I had great success with the Orvis guarantee.  I bought a trident in early 1997 that was a 1996 model discounted by about $100.00.  I broke the rod in the Summer of 1997 and returned it to my Orvis dealer here in Houston to get it repaired under the guarantee. The manager of the Houston store, Dave Haywood,  loaned me a replacement rod, a brand new Trident, and took my broken rod and sent it to Orvis in VT. I didn’t even pay shipping charges.  Three weeks later Orvis sent me a brand new trident,  worth over $100.00 more than I had invested in the original rod.  I returned the loaner and have yet to spend a penny or to be inconvenienced much because of the broken rod.  When I think I could have been out a $400.00 rod I become ever more appreciative of the manner in which the whole affair was handled. I am not some crony of the store manager.  I met him when I bought the rod.  He had no reason to treat me any different than anyone else so I have to assume this is standard policy, at least here in the Houston area. It sounds like the troubles experienced with the guarantee are a function of the dealer.  I would bet a direct contact with the Orvis customer service people would get you the action you deserve. Tom Ralph H note spurious hyperbole, insults and ‘personal attacks’ made by the author are meant to honour "the Soul of Cicero" and are not intended as personal slights. Please don’t take offense as none is intended. remove "(take_this_out)" for email reply.

Response:

Finally, someone who understands the truth behind these "Guarantees". – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -What do you expect them to do after you paid eight times what the rod cost to build? — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail I had great success with the Orvis guarantee.  I bought a trident in early 1997 that was a 1996 model discounted by about $100.00.  I broke the rod in the Summer of 1997 and returned it to my Orvis dealer here in Houston to get it repaired under the guarantee. The manager of the Houston store, Dave Haywood,  loaned me a replacement rod, a brand new Trident, and took my broken rod and sent it to Orvis in VT.  I didn’t even pay shipping charges.  Three weeks later Orvis sent me a brand new trident,  worth over $100.00 more than I had invested in the original rod.  I returned the loaner and have yet to spend a penny or to be inconvenienced much because of the broken rod.  When I think I could have been out a $400.00 rod I become ever more appreciative of the manner in which the whole affair was handled. I am not some crony of the store manager.  I met him when I bought the rod.  He had no reason to treat me any different than anyone else so I have to assume this is standard policy, at least here in the Houston area. It sounds like the troubles experienced with the guarantee are a function of the dealer.  I would bet a direct contact with the Orvis customer service people would get you the action you deserve. Tom

Response:

What do you expect them to do after you paid eight times what the rod cost to build? — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I had great success with the Orvis guarantee.  I bought a trident in early 1997 that was a 1996 model discounted by about $100.00.  I broke the rod in the Summer of 1997 and returned it to my Orvis dealer here in Houston to get it repaired under the guarantee. The manager of the Houston store, Dave Haywood,  loaned me a replacement rod, a brand new Trident, and took my broken rod and sent it to Orvis in VT.  I didn’t even pay shipping charges.  Three weeks later Orvis sent me a brand new trident,  worth over $100.00 more than I had invested in the original rod.  I returned the loaner and have yet to spend a penny or to be inconvenienced much because of the broken rod.  When I think I could have been out a $400.00 rod I become ever more appreciative of the manner in which the whole affair was handled. I am not some crony of the store manager.  I met him when I bought the rod.  He had no reason to treat me any different than anyone else so I have to assume this is standard policy, at least here in the Houston area. It sounds like the troubles experienced with the guarantee are a function of the dealer.  I would bet a direct contact with the Orvis customer service people would get you the action you deserve. Tom

Response:

  I had an accident in last august and i broke my Orvis rod.   Of course my rod has so called no questions asked quarantee   for 25 years since i’m the original owner. So i left my rod in   local dealer which send it to local importer – This all happened   in during august last year and now it is the beginning of the   fishing season and the rod is still in repair!! Nice work Orvis –   it is the last of your rods that i’m going to buy! I would be even   willing to pay for a decent repair time but this is ridiculous.

I’ve had no problem with them at all – nor has anyone I’ve ever talked to.  They are prompt and courteous.  Even so, I’d never leave a rod and not do anything about it for months.  I always keep close tabs on my repairs, and have never had problems with _any_ company’s guarantee.  Things occasionally get lost or misplaced. What you didn’t tell us is what you have actually done to rectify the situation.  A simple call to Orvis would handle this without problem – something you should have done about 6 months ago.  It would be a hell of a lot more productive than taking time to rant on this newsgroup. Also, if you feel so strongly that these guarantees are bad for flyfishing, then 1) why did you not buy a rod from someone who doesn’t offer one and 2) why did you send your rod in for warrantee work?  If you actually feel this way, both of those actions are more than a little hypocritical. -tgades — Tony Gades. Seattle, WA.  USA http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades/Fishing/fish_page.html NOTICE: DO NOT ADD MY NAME TO _ANY_ MAILING LISTS.  

Response:

Dave, thanks for the info. I was hoping I could do this. I still have the card that was attached to the registration card (which was already sent in) and it talks about shipping to their Vermont site. My problem was just trying to figure out how to get a box that it would fit in. Thanks again. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Bob Bently writes: <<With regards to the Orvis guarantee, can I take a rod to any Orvis dealer and have him ship it back for repair/replacement, or do I have to take it to the dealer I bought it from? Any Orvis dealer will take care of it for you.  Or you could ship directly to Orvis in Manchester, VT, but you’d pay the shipping charge.  Let your closest Orvis dealer do it. Dave LaCourse

Response:

Bob Bently writes:

<<With regards to the Orvis guarantee, can I take a rod to any Orvis dealer and have him ship it back for repair/replacement, or do I have to take it to the dealer I bought it from? Any Orvis dealer will take care of it for you.  Or you could ship directly to Orvis in Manchester, VT, but you’d pay the shipping charge.  Let your closest Orvis dealer do it.   Dave LaCourse

Response:

I had great success with the Orvis guarantee.  I bought a trident in early 1997 that was a 1996 model discounted by about $100.00.  I broke the rod in the Summer of 1997 and returned it to my Orvis dealer here in Houston to get it repaired under the guarantee. The manager of the Houston store, Dave Haywood,  loaned me a replacement rod, a brand new Trident, and took my broken rod and sent it to Orvis in VT.  I didn’t even pay shipping charges.  Three weeks later Orvis sent me a brand new trident,  worth over $100.00 more than I had invested in the original rod.  I returned the loaner and have yet to spend a penny or to be inconvenienced much because of the broken rod.  When I think I could have been out a $400.00 rod I become ever more appreciative of the manner in which the whole affair was handled. I am not some crony of the store manager.  I met him when I bought the rod.  He had no reason to treat me any different than anyone else so I have to assume this is standard policy, at least here in the Houston area. It sounds like the troubles experienced with the guarantee are a function of the dealer.  I would bet a direct contact with the Orvis customer service people would get you the action you deserve. Tom

Response:

With regards to the Orvis guarantee, can I take a rod to any Orvis dealer and have him ship it back for repair/replacement, or do I have to take it to the dealer I bought it from? I ask, because I broke my new Silver Label 8wt of the weekend. There is a dealer nearby, but I bought it from another dealer which is 3.5 hours away? Thanks for any info. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I had great success with the Orvis guarantee.  I bought a trident in early 1997 that was a 1996 model discounted by about $100.00.  I broke the rod in the Summer of 1997 and returned it to my Orvis dealer here in Houston to get it repaired under the guarantee. The manager of the Houston store, Dave Haywood,  loaned me a replacement rod, a brand new Trident, and took my broken rod and sent it to Orvis in VT.  I didn’t even pay shipping charges.  Three weeks later Orvis sent me a brand new trident,  worth over $100.00 more than I had invested in the original rod.  I returned the loaner and have yet to spend a penny or to be inconvenienced much because of the broken rod.  When I think I could have been out a $400.00 rod I become ever more appreciative of the manner in which the whole affair was handled. I am not some crony of the store manager.  I met him when I bought the rod.  He had no reason to treat me any different than anyone else so I have to assume this is standard policy, at least here in the Houston area. It sounds like the troubles experienced with the guarantee are a function of the dealer.  I would bet a direct contact with the Orvis customer service people would get you the action you deserve. Tom

Response:

Timo Harjunen writes:

<<I had an accident in last august and i broke my Orvis rod. Of course my rod has so called no questions asked quarantee for 25 years since i’m the original owner. So i left my rod in local dealer which send it to local importer – This all happened in during august last year and now it is the beginning of the fishing season and the rod is still in repair!! Nice work Orvis – it is the last of your rods that i’m going to buy! I would be even willing to pay for a decent repair time but this is ridiculous. It may be your local dealer that is the trouble, Timo.  I accidently broke two Orvis rods (at different times over the years) and they were "in the shop" four weeks (the longest period).  You should write to Orvis in Manchester, Vermont, USA, and ask them about it.   Do not expect your dealer to work for you on this.   I suspect you are in Finland — good Finnish names — so the mail may also be the culprit in all of this. Dave LaCourse

Response:

Hello! Just one warning from disappointed customer! I had an accident in last august and i broke my Orvis rod. Of course my rod has so called no questions asked quarantee for 25 years since i’m the original owner. So i left my rod in local dealer which send it to local importer – This all happened in during august last year and now it is the beginning of the fishing season and the rod is still in repair!! Nice work Orvis – it is the last of your rods that i’m going to buy! I would be even willing to pay for a decent repair time but this is ridiculous. May this Orvis 25year quarantee means that i have to now wait for 23 years to get my rod repaired… Disappointed customer -Timo ps. IMHO No questions asked quarantees are not good for fly fishing – i’m afraid that smaller rod makers will suffer eventually since the amount of broken rods will increase when the rods gets older…

Response:

Question:

In leader formulas do the lengths of the sections that are reccomended include the extra length needed to tie the connecting knots or are they reccomending that that length be the finished/after knot length.  Also, nail knot, surgeon’s, or blood knots? Bob

Response:

In leader formulas do the lengths of the sections that are reccomended include the extra length needed to tie the connecting knots or are they reccomending that that length be the finished/after knot length.  Also, nail knot, surgeon’s, or blood knots?

I have always assumed that the formulae refer to the finished length of the sections.  I allow about 1 1/2" for the knots, and this seems to work fine.  The nail knot is used to attach the leader butt to the tip of the flyline.  I use the blood knot, except for the tippet (last) knot, where I use the surgeon’s knot (three-turn version — I think the British call this a water knot.)  FWIW, my own experiments show that the surgeon’s knot, if perfectly tied, is stronger than the blood knot, but leaders tied with blood knots turn over better.  Since most breaks occur at the fly or the tippet knot, I believe that my system is a good compromise.  I have found that blood knots cinch up best when you tie them with one less turn of the heavier material than the lighter.  With the Maxima I use, 4/5 turns on the heavy butt sections and 5/6 turns on the lighter material seems to work well.  Heavy material requires a jerk or tug to properly tighten; the other knots should be pulled gently.  I am sure that I learned much of this from books or magazines, but my old brain can’t cite references.  Hope this helps.  –Roger

Response:

In leader formulas do the lengths of the sections that are reccomended include the extra length needed to tie the connecting knots or are they reccomending that that length be the finished/after knot length.  Also, nail knot, surgeon’s, or blood knots?

Most formula’s I’ve seen are finished length. I usually add about six inches for a knot on each end. You could probably use less, but I find it much less frustrating if I have plenty of material to hold onto when tightening my knots. As for knots, I usually use blood knots on the thicker sections. On the smaller diameter material I do something a little different. I tie a nail knot with the smaller material, but I don’t tighten it completely. I then take the larger diameter material and tie a nail knot with it on the smaller material. I now have two knots that will snug together when I pull on the opposite ends of the material. (I’m not sure if that description makes much sense, but it’s the best I can do!). This technique is admittedly a pain in the ass, but I find  it to be the strongest connection there is. When tied this way, I have NEVER broken a tippet off right at the knot. Surgeon’s or blood knots break at the knot quite often in my experience. Typically, I use this technique when I make up my leaders at home. If I am tying or repairing a leader on the river, I usually use the surgeon’s knot to save time. Tim — To reply by e-mail, remove "sick of spam" from my return address!

Response:

In leader formulas do the lengths of the sections that are reccomended include the extra length needed to tie the connecting knots or are they reccomending that that length be the finished/after knot length.  Also, nail knot, surgeon’s, or blood knots? Bob

I would think most formulas are finished lengths. You will have to give yourself what extra length it will take you to tie the knots. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Response:

As for knots, I usually use blood knots on the thicker sections. On the smaller diameter material I do something a little different. I tie a nail knot with the smaller material, but I don’t tighten it completely. I then take the larger diameter material and tie a nail knot with it on the smaller material. I now have two knots that will snug together when I pull on the opposite ends of the material. (I’m not sure if that description makes much sense, but it’s the best I can do!). This technique is admittedly a pain in the ass, but I find  it to be the strongest connection there is. When tied this way, I have NEVER broken a tippet off right at the knot. Surgeon’s or blood knots break at the knot quite often in my experience.

I also use the double nail knot for my leaders…mainly because I never learned to tie a proper bloodknot and the double nail is easy with a knot-tying tool (they almost all have instructions on how to tie the double nail). I’ve never heard anyone talk about which is stronger, and assumed it was the bloodknot since that’s what everyone recommends. Typically, I use this technique when I make up my leaders at home. If I am tying or repairing a leader on the river, I usually use the surgeon’s knot to save time.

Same here. Ric

Response:

In leader formulas do the lengths of the sections that are reccomended include the extra length needed to tie the connecting knots or are they reccomending that that length be the finished/after knot length.  Also, nail knot, surgeon’s, or blood knots?

Hi Bob, In leader formulas the length is the finished length.  Don’t get too anal about it though, if you’re off by an inch or so it will still work.  The idea in the tapering sections is to smoothly transmit the power from the fly line down through the leader to the tippet without hinging.  You just need enough line in each section to make that transition.  Try to keep the proportions close as that is the most important (proportion of butt section to tapering section to tippet section) and has the most affect on the performance of the leader. I like to use the nail knot to attach my leader to the fly line (smallest, smoothest connection), the blood knot for the knots in the butt and tapering section (smallest, smoothest connection again), and either the double surgeon’s knot or the Orvis tippet knot for the tippet (extra bulk doesn’t matter here – strength does). When using the blood knot, use only 3 to a maximum or 4 turns in the butt section, 5 turns in the tapering section, and, if you insist on using the blood knot with your tippets, 6 turns with 6X and 7 turns with 7X.  The more turns you use, the more secure the knot is *IF* you can seat it correctly and completely.  Smaller material uses more turns, thicker material demands fewer turns.   A five turn blood knot is almost impossible to seat well in .021" material and will easily slip after soaking in the water for a few minutes if not totally seated.  I typically use a 3 turn blood knot in the butt section and never have it fail. Beware of using other knots in the heavy part of your leader.  The blood knot is the smallest knot you can tie in monofilament, and the easiest to move through the guides.  A double surgeon’s knot is twice as bulky, and although very slightly stronger than a blood knot, also tends to get caught in the corners of the snake guides when that big fish makes one final lunge.  This results in broken-off fish, zippered-off line guides, broken rod as it gets stuck in the tip-top, or all of the above.  Not a good choice in the heavy section of the leader.  The extra bulk is no big deal in the fine part of the leader because it is just a little bump in the line with little chance of moving through the line guides let alone getting stuck in them.                                           Hope this helps,                                                     Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

Response:

I also use the double nail knot for my leaders…mainly because I never learned to tie a proper bloodknot and the double nail is easy with a knot-tying tool (they almost all have instructions on how to tie the double nail). I’ve never heard anyone talk about which is stronger, and assumed it was the bloodknot since that’s what everyone recommends.

I started using the double nail knot because it is so similar to a knot that I used many years ago when I was a rock climber. The climbing knot was considered one of the strongest because it relies on the force of the knots opposing each other rather than simply on tightening itself under a load. I don’t know which one is actually stronger, but I do know that I have never broken at the knot with the double nail, but I have with the blood knot. In all honesty though, I’ve used te blood knot longer than the double nail so it just may be a matter of time. I’m sticking with the double nail for now. Tim — To reply by e-mail, remove "sick of spam" from my return address!

Response:

Dan Gracia, Your explanations of casting and rod flex finally tell me what have caused my problems going back and forth between different rods.   What is the Orvis tippet knot?  If its for connecting tippet to leader rather than tippet to hook is there a picture on the web or in a book?                                                  Doug Campbell

Response:

Dan Gracia, Your explanations of casting and rod flex finally tell me what have caused my problems going back and forth between different rods.   What is the Orvis tippet knot?  If its for connecting tippet to leader rather than tippet to hook is there a picture on the web or in a book?                                               Doug Campbell

Hi Doug, There is a description of it in the Waterproof Knot Booklet that Orvis sells for around $5.  It’s a slight variation of the Orvis knot to tie on the fly. Basically a figure 8 knot with two turns through the  second loop.  I’ll see if I can scan a copy of it and e-mail it to you.  If you ever get an Orvis knotless leader and send in that little blue card,  they’ll send you a plastic wallet size card with the tippet to hook knot on one side and the leader to tippet knot on the other – no charge.                                  Good Fishing,                                         Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

Response:

Question:

I jsut got the Mastery Series Bonefish line (sinking) which looks extra slippery. Does anyone have a suggestion on what knot to use to attach the butt section?

Response:

I use a quick double nail knot and then super glue it. I’ve been using this method on 9 through 13 wt. lines without any problems. This seems to be a standard method down here in South Florida. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I jsut got the Mastery Series Bonefish line (sinking) which looks extra slippery. Does anyone have a suggestion on what knot to use to attach the butt section?

Response:

I just used a single nail knot on mine and it has held through  several dozen tarpon and miscellaneous other fish.  I put a coat of cement over the top, primarily  to smooth it out.  There are probably better knots, but this one was good enough.  good luck. I jsut got the Mastery Series Bonefish line (sinking) which looks extra slippery. Does anyone have a suggestion on what knot to use to attach the butt section?

– Tim Ackerman "everyone lives downstream"

Response:

I jsut got the Mastery Series Bonefish line (sinking) which looks extra slippery. Does anyone have a suggestion on what knot to use to attach the butt section?

Is that a solid monocore or a braided monocore?  If it’s a solid core I would normally strip off a few inches of coating, tie an overhand knot in the core and slide the butt through it, then tie a nail knot with the butt to the core, being sure to snug it down against the overhand. George Anderson and I tested this knot on the Monic line last year and it seemed to be the only one that was 100%. Marshall

Response:

I just got the Mastery Series Bonefish line (sinking) which looks extra slippery. Does anyone have a suggestion on what knot to use to attach the butt section?

        A needle nail knot.  No matter how slippery the line may be,         that one’s not going to come loose.                                         Tom Hewlett-Packard Laboratories                     Phone: (970) 229-3531 External Research Program                          FAX: (970) 229-6198 3404 East Harmony Road Fort Collins, CO 80525-9599

Response:

I jsut got the Mastery Series Bonefish line (sinking) which looks extra slippery. Does anyone have a suggestion on what knot to use to attach the butt section?

We use the Albright knot to attach the butt section to the front of the flyline. On the rear of the line we fold it back to form a small loop. We then nail knot it twice to form a loop. We tie a Bimini Twist in the backing and loop that to the flyline. We use Goodyear Pliobond cement on all the knots to make them more streamline. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Response:

Similar to Tom’s suggestion:  make a loop out of braided mono, slide it over the fly line, tie a nail knot with 10-12# mono at end of braided mono, then touch it with a drop of "super glue".  This will give you a loop for loop-to-loop connection and it won’t come off. Dave Cornue

Response:

I jsut got the Mastery Series Bonefish line (sinking) which looks extra slippery. Does anyone have a suggestion on what knot to use to attach the butt section? Is that a solid monocore or a braided monocore?  If it’s a solid core I would normally strip off a few inches of coating, tie an overhand knot in the core and slide the butt through it, then tie a nail knot with the butt to the core, being sure to snug it down against the overhand. George Anderson and I tested this knot on the Monic line last year and it seemed to be the only one that was 100%. Marshall

What people call slime line are those clear no-core lines.  They look like a fat mono. Nix on the needle knot. I found with the mastery stillwater and only one nail knot that it squeezed the slime line until it weakened and slipped or broke.  I use and found a good and easy knot is to tie two or three nail knots in a row.  Just leave the tag line 12 inches long on the first one, cinch it tight, then tie another a half-inch up the line. Before you pull this one tight, slide it a bit up the line so it will all be smooth when you pull it tight. Repeat again if you wish. Mark Vinsel — http://www.lanminds.com/local/vinnie/gallery.html

Response:

I jsut got the Mastery Series Bonefish line (sinking) which looks extra slippery. Does anyone have a suggestion on what knot to use to attach the butt section?

THE ALBERTSON KNOT. Mr. G.

Response:

Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

Response:

Question:

A Monday, Sept. 30, 1996 article from The New York Post                                     Harlem angler snags body    A homeless woman fishing in the Harlem River snagged a badly decomposed body last night.  The woman was fishing at the water’s edge at E. 135th St. near Metro-North railroad bridge in Manhattan at about 7:15 p.m.  Police said the body was so badly decomposed that its sex couldn’t be determined. It was taken to the medical examiner’s office for an autopsy. Tight Lines Bob Hill

Since 1990, two bodies have been found on the Roaring Fork, foul play invovled in both incidents. So, when I’m fishing for whities in one of the Fork’s deeeper holes and smell something rotting near the heap of driftwood at the back of the pool, I just call it an unfortunate beaver and head for the next hole. Mitch

Response:

A Monday, Sept. 30, 1996 article from The New York Post                                     Harlem angler snags body    A homeless woman fishing in the Harlem River snagged a badly decomposed body last night.  The woman was fishing at the water’s edge at E. 135th St. near Metro-North railroad bridge in Manhattan at about 7:15 p.m.  Police said the body was so badly decomposed that its sex couldn’t be determined. It was taken to the medical examiner’s office for an autopsy. Tight Lines Bob Hill

damned, I wish you would stick to the important issues or point. George Gehrke/Mr. Gink

Response:

Fereira) writes: attempted to gut and butcher her catch at streamside, a clear violation of urban fishing etiquette.  Let this be an example to all you potential poachers, jack-lighters and trespass fishermen in NYC.  There is zero tolerance for straying off the straight and narrow path here. It was yet another example of mutilation due to the result of C&R.

I’ve been told it’s bad form to gut and butcher prior to a release.             Jim

Response:

Was she using a wet or a dry, and what pattern? Lolo Mt. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A Monday, Sept. 30, 1996 article from The New York Post                                     Harlem angler snags body    A homeless woman fishing in the Harlem River snagged a badly decomposed body last night.  The woman was fishing at the water’s edge at E. 135th St. near Metro-North railroad bridge in Manhattan at about 7:15 p.m.  Police said the body was so badly decomposed that its sex couldn’t be determined. It was taken to the medical examiner’s office for an autopsy. Tight Lines Bob Hill

Response:

A Monday, Sept. 30, 1996 article from The New York Post                                     Harlem angler snags body    A homeless woman fishing in the Harlem River snagged a badly decomposed body last night.  The woman was fishing at the water’s edge at E. 135th St. near Metro-North railroad bridge in Manhattan at about 7:15 p.m.  Police said the body was so badly decomposed that its sex couldn’t be determined. It was taken to the medical examiner’s office for an autopsy. Tight Lines Bob Hill

Response:

A Monday, Sept. 30, 1996 article from The New York Post                                     Harlem angler snags body    A homeless woman fishing in the Harlem River snagged a badly decomposed body last night.  The woman was fishing at the water’s edge at E. 135th St. near Metro-North railroad bridge in Manhattan at about 7:15 p.m.  Police said the body was so badly decomposed that its sex couldn’t be determined. It was taken to the medical examiner’s office for an autopsy. Tight Lines Bob Hill

The body was determined to be a female and so the angler was immediately arrested as she was not in possession of a valid doe permit and she attempted to gut and butcher her catch at streamside, a clear violation of urban fishing etiquette.  Let this be an example to all you potential poachers, jack-lighters and trespass fishermen in NYC.  There is zero tolerance for straying off the straight and narrow path here. Stan

Response:

: A Monday, Sept. 30, 1996 article from The New York Post :                                     Harlem angler snags body :    A homeless woman fishing in the Harlem River snagged a badly decomposed : body last night.  The woman was fishing at the water’s edge at E. 135th St. : near Metro-North railroad bridge in Manhattan at about 7:15 p.m.  Police : said the body was so badly decomposed that its sex couldn’t be determined. : It was taken to the medical examiner’s office for an autopsy. *(sigh)*  It has become an almost regular thing here in Ohio for a fisherman to discover a body. :-O Jon Porter

Response:

What kind of fly was she using? mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A Monday, Sept. 30, 1996 article from The New York Post                                     Harlem angler snags body    A homeless woman fishing in the Harlem River snagged a badly decomposed body last night.  The woman was fishing at the water’s edge at E. 135th St. near Metro-North railroad bridge in Manhattan at about 7:15 p.m.  Police said the body was so badly decomposed that its sex couldn’t be determined. It was taken to the medical examiner’s office for an autopsy. Tight Lines Bob Hill

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A Monday, Sept. 30, 1996 article from The New York Post                                     Harlem angler snags body    A homeless woman fishing in the Harlem River snagged a badly decomposed body last night.  The woman was fishing at the water’s edge at E. 135th St. near Metro-North railroad bridge in Manhattan at about 7:15 p.m.  Police said the body was so badly decomposed that its sex couldn’t be determined. It was taken to the medical examiner’s office for an autopsy. Tight Lines Bob Hill The body was determined to be a female and so the angler was immediately arrested as she was not in possession of a valid doe permit and she attempted to gut and butcher her catch at streamside, a clear violation of urban fishing etiquette.  Let this be an example to all you potential poachers, jack-lighters and trespass fishermen in NYC.  There is zero tolerance for straying off the straight and narrow path here.

It was yet another example of mutilation due to the result of C&R. — John Fereira Isis Distributed Systems – Ithaca, NY

Response:

   A homeless woman fishing in the Harlem River…

Pshew…and I complain about fishing with the crowds on the pan… Perspective, man. TimW

Response:

   A homeless woman fishing in the Harlem River …

God this image is haunting me. This woman is an angler, my friends.  Better than the lot of us lashed together.  Let’s get together and buy her a bus ticket to Ennis or something, Jesus. TimW

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: This woman is an angler, my friends.  Better than the lot of us : lashed together.  Let’s get together and buy her a bus ticket to : Ennis or something, Jesus. Vail.  I hear she can catch big ones right in the middle of town. — Rick "still punchin’" Fletcher T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

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Question:

Curt:  I use a 2 wt. for bream and small bass all the time on creeks here in TX.  Jack Ellis used to only use two rods (3wt. and 10 wt.) when I first met him.  The main problem with light rods for bass isn’t the fish, it’s the size of the flies.  My favorite rods are 5 wts. I only go for the 8wts. When I know I’ll be after big bass and using big flies.         All the reports I’ve had on St. Croix rods are positive.         If you really get into warmwater FF, send me your mailing address and I’ll mail you a couple of my newsletters.  Ellis an I publish one exclusively for the warmwater crowd.                                         Brian

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Howdy folks,    I have a question about rods for panfish, bass, etc.    I just moved to S. Dakota (the eastern end away from the trout streams in the black hills).  It’s pretty obvious thus far that the majority of my fishing will entail warm water fish.  As an avid small stream trout fisherman, my only rod that I own is a nice little 7′6" 3wt. I think I may be a little undergunned for bass    I have no idea what rod to get (yeah, I could look in books, but all my stuff is still packed away in various places….).  I was thinking about a St. Croix, since funds are a little tight and I’ve heard great things about ‘em, but what size, 7wt, 9wt ??  What would a good all around warm water rod?    Any advice would be appreciated, and any offers to sell me a good used rod would be even more appreciated thanks,    curt Curt Anderson Post-Doctoral Research Fellow University of South Dakota School of Medicine Dept. of Anatomy & Structural Biology Vermillion, SD 57069

I’d go with a 7 or 8 for bass…. for a good all around warm water rod(s), I would get a 4 | 5 and a 7….. -Dan-

Response:

Howdy folks,         I have a question about rods for panfish, bass, etc.         I just moved to S. Dakota (the eastern end away from the trout streams in the black hills).  It’s pretty obvious thus far that the majority of my fishing will entail warm water fish.  As an avid small stream trout fisherman, my only rod that I own is a nice little 7′6" 3wt. I think I may be a little undergunned for bass         I have no idea what rod to get (yeah, I could look in books, but all my stuff is still packed away in various places….).  I was thinking about a St. Croix, since funds are a little tight and I’ve heard great things about ‘em, but what size, 7wt, 9wt ??  What would a good all around warm water rod?         Any advice would be appreciated, and any offers to sell me a good used rod would be even more appreciated thanks,         curt Curt Anderson Post-Doctoral Research Fellow University of South Dakota School of Medicine Dept. of Anatomy & Structural Biology Vermillion, SD 57069

Response:

Hi Curt I’d recommend a 9′ for a 7 weight.  It could also be used for trout if you should happen to get near a western river.   Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Howdy folks,         I have a question about rods for panfish, bass, etc.         I just moved to S. Dakota (the eastern end away from the trout streams in the black hills).  It’s pretty obvious thus far that the majority of my fishing will entail warm water fish.  As an avid small stream trout fisherman, my only rod that I own is a nice little 7′6" 3wt. I think I may be a little undergunned for bass         I have no idea what rod to get (yeah, I could look in books, but all my stuff is still packed away in various places….).  I was thinking about a St. Croix, since funds are a little tight and I’ve heard great things about ‘em, but what size, 7wt, 9wt ??  What would a good all around warm water rod?         Any advice would be appreciated, and any offers to sell me a good used rod would be even more appreciated

Hi Curt, I use an inexpensive (not *cheap*) Cortland 6 wt rod and reel on bream and bass with good results.  With 6 wt line I sometimes have a little trouble throwing highly wind-resistant deer hair bugs, though.  I’m about to try loading my reel with 7 wt to see if it improves.  If you want some more detail on my combo, e-mail me.  I’ll be happy to tell you where and how much. By the way, you don’t want to sell your 3 wt, do you?  It’s still an excellent bream rod. -Barry Barry Layfield Huntsville, AL        http://ro.com/~blayf

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Howdy folks,    I have a question about rods for panfish, bass, etc.    I just moved to S. Dakota (the eastern end away from the trout streams in the black hills).  It’s pretty obvious thus far that the majority of my fishing will entail warm water fish.  As an avid small stream trout fisherman, my only rod that I own is a nice little 7′6" 3wt. I think I may be a little undergunned for bass    I have no idea what rod to get (yeah, I could look in books, but all my stuff is still packed away in various places….).  I was thinking about a St. Croix, since funds are a little tight and I’ve heard great things about ‘em, but what size, 7wt, 9wt ??  What would a good all around warm water rod?    Any advice would be appreciated, and any offers to sell me a good used rod would be even more appreciated thanks,    curt Curt Anderson Post-Doctoral Research Fellow University of South Dakota School of Medicine Dept. of Anatomy & Structural Biology Vermillion, SD 57069

I California we use #6, 7 or 8 for warm water fisheries.  If you are using larger bugs, get a larger outfit.  I would get a bass bug taper and use short (7 1/2′), large butt (.023"+), heavy leaders (3x to 0x). William Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA

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Question:

Of all the streams I fish in the great upper peninsula of michigan, the trout only seem to bite spinners and worms. I truly enjoy flyfishing rivers over spincasting, and was wondering if anyone fishes the u.p. with flyrods that can give me some tips. Thanks- Muskie

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I haven’t fished the U.P. (I have a buddy from near Houghton who threatens to take me, but that is another story).  Anyway, I can sympathize.  I grew up fishing in N.E. Minnesota (on the other side of Lake Superior) and found the same problems.  Most of the streams were small and choked with cedars, spuce, or alders.  The only spots open enough to fly fish seemed devoid of cover, and of course were devoid of fish. But keep searching..you will soon find that spot with both cover (shade) and casting room.  Try larger streams and look for boulders and plunge pools below rapids and falls.  Searching is all the fun.  Who other that a trout fisherman would spend hours slugging through brush, mud, and mosquitoes for hours to catch a 7-inch trophy. Tight Lines – Zeke

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Dear Muskie: When you refer to the U.P., you are talking about God’s country, which was also shared by the great Robert Traver.  I have spent a great deal of my youth and later years fishing the streams in the Central U.P..  The fly fishing is fine, and some of the best to be found anywhere. Streamers work especially well.  Try a Royal Coachmen, Muddler, or Black Ghost for good results.  The tried and true G.R. Hares Ear Nymph is a favorite, as well as a good selection of Bead Heads, and Zud Bugs.  No one should also venture out without a supply of Adams dry flies ranging in sizes from #12 to #20, also for a pattern to explore with, try a Betty (also called a Coachmen Trude).  The March Brown hatch can be spectacular, and takes place around the end of June through the first part of July, so carry some March Brown patterns. Just returned from two weeks in the U.P., and while the weather was not always spectacular, the fishing was good. Good Luck, Jim J.

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Question:

Deke Meyer’s Advanced FlyFishing for Steelhead,  Frank Amato Pubs. has a ggod chapter on fishing and tying Spey Flies, with some good patterns. They aren’t too hard to tie, but a rotary vise, such as a Renzetti, will make it a lot easier.–Crashjibe

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I wonder if there are any good instructional books out there that focus on spey flies.  My Jourgenson doesn’t cover them well and Alcott’s Building Salmon Flies hardly mentions them.  They are cool so I’d like to try tying some.  (Would want to do a good job).  Please reply with any good suggestions.   Catch and Release Dave Wood Ravenna OH

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(Dht360slt) writes: I wonder if there are any good instructional books out there that focus on spey flies.

For a step by step, see if you can find a copy of T.E. Pryce-Tannat’s book "How to dress Salmonflies".  He gives nice instructions even though he doesn’t use a vice to hold the hook.  This is one of *the* books on tying salmonflies. It was originally published in 1914.  There was a reprint available a few years ago for around $30.  Worth looking for. If your local fly fishing club does such things, see if you can get Steve Gobin to come do a one day class.  He makes it easy.                                          Tight Threads, Slack Sucks,                                                                    Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Schools

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Question:

: Recently I have begun to do some offshore racing outside the San Francisco Bay  and I now need to buy my own offshore harness.  I’ve been advised that a : a self-inflating harness is the best way to go. : However, I work the foredeck. : Some people say that you really have to submerge these harnesses for them : to inflate, others say that they’ve had them inflate when they are piled : in with other wet gear for a period of time. I’ve used the belt inflated life jacket for about 3 years now.  Normal maintanence requires that you inflate them once a year at least.  If you do that the unit will not inflate until it is under water for a time. If you don’t inflate it regularly it may more may not inflate when you need it.  The CO2 cartrage will discharge over time so you want to replace it yearly to be on the safe side.  If you inflat it put it under water to check for leaks.  A unit that isn’t repack once in a while will be more likely to be holed. I’d say get you’re own equipment.  Also look at the line that connects the harness to the boat.  You may want different lengths for different boats. I’m currently running my jack line from the cochpit around the babystay and back.  This way I can walk around the mast and back if I don’t like the seas on the low side etc.  As this line floats up I can run a very short line.  If I have crew up there on the foredeck helping I need more line. I find line length effects productivity up there.  A short line that is long enough to do the job doesn’t get tangled, stepped on or removed because it’s in the way.  You can make a long line short by splicing your own end and feeding a bunge cord through it. For fore deck work I would recomend getting very creative with this jack line.  If you don’t you will find yourself up there removing it to untangle yourself etc. As for the clip for a jack line they put some pretty user unfreindly line connectors on some of the harness.  I’m devided as they must have a reason but I end up using carbeners because they are easy to work with going in and out of the cabin.  Basicly if I don’t have to think about it I find I connect myself.  If I have to fiddle with it I catch myself unconnected. Another thing to look at on a harness is storage.  I know this sounds strange but the ‘right’ place to put a wistle and a water prouf flash light is on the harness.  It’s been measured that you can blow a wistle in cold water when you can’t yell to flag another boat down. I have the personel strobes but the helogen flash lights (small ones using the AA batteries) can be pointed right at the boat you’re trying to flag down.  These little guys are bright and last a good long time. I also have more faith in a light I’m using often to one that is stored and never used but to test.  Tests don’t give you a feel for the battery life etc. As a fordeck person I hope you know never to go up there without a good sharp knife.  This could save your life someday if you ever get wrapped. I started doing this years ago never needed it but if it’s blowing hard you may not be able to communicate you’re arm being broken to the guy behind you. — AST Research Inc.          (714) 727-8669

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In practice it’s actually very rare for foredeck crew to be "hooked in" while working the foredeck of a competitive race boat. They hook in while sitting on the rail or trimming, but being tethered during a jibe or sail change would be problematic. *Some* crew hook in during these maneuvers at night, but this is rare, in my experience. Even singlehanded, it took practice to learn how to jibe the spinnaker while hooked in. For a full crew to jibe an ocean racer with all their tethers attached would be chaos.   Your first defense against being lost overboard (after holding on tight, that is) is a good life jacket and a personal strobe and whistle. Maybe a backup waterproof flashlight, too. I’m very strict about wearing this equipment offshore. The harness, in the vast majority of weather conditions you’ll encounter off the coast, is going to be far too encumbering to allow you to race the boat effectively. I have an old North vest which I love because it has nice deep pockets for the strobe and other stuff (and it served well when I survived a sinking, the Bird boat FALCON in 1989 Master Mariners, in the middle of SF Bay). If I were shopping for a new lifejacket I’d probably favor one of the Stearns fishing models, because of the multiple pockets, and the high degree of freedom of motion they offer. Having said that, you still need a harness for the times that the weather is *really* bad, and especially for the long time intervals between maneuvers when there’s no efficiency lost by being hooked on. So my preference is for a single-purpose shoulder harness, of a fairly simple design that can be sorted out and put on in the dark while you hold on with the other hand. It’s important that the tether have good, oversized (expensive) shackles at *both* ends, so if you find yourself tangled in something you can re-lead from your end. Also consider using some nylon rope instead of the webbing for the tether. A cleat hitch around the nearest cleat is generally more reliable than a carbiner through a pad eye, and you can adjust the length of the teather to be no longer than what you really need. BTW I don’t think much of caribiners for this application, because they have to be closed to develop full strength. (my tether has a very large torsion-spring gate-type snap hook on the far end, and an equally oversize "fly-away" type spinnaker sheet shackle (about what you’d find on a 40′ boat) at my end.                                              -"Call me Fishmeal"-

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Some people say that you really have to submerge these harnesses for them to inflate, others say that they’ve had them inflate when they are piled in with other wet gear for a period of time.

My experience is that on a long wet trip e.g. sailing from Hawaii back to California, the self-inflating life jackets always trigger. My suboptimal solution has been to remove the self inflating cap, spring, and tablet, but leave the CO2 cartridge and the manual trigger pull tab. Stan Honey San Francisco

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|   | Some people say that you really have to submerge these harnesses for them | to inflate, others say that they’ve had them inflate when they are piled | in with other wet gear for a period of time. |   | My experience is that on a long wet trip e.g. sailing from Hawaii | back to California, the self-inflating life jackets always trigger. | My suboptimal solution has been to remove the self inflating cap, | spring, and tablet, but leave the CO2 cartridge and the manual trigger | pull tab. On the other hand, my experience with a Crewsaver, Crewfit lifejacket is that it has never inflated when I haven’t wanted it to, and has inflated when needed.  I have been out in conditions when I would have expected it to trigger and it hasn’t. I suspect that the tendency to trigger "accidently" depends on the particular lifejacket.  The self inflating capsule on the Crewsaver is well protected by the folded lifejacket and this may not be the case in other designs. Marion Edwards

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Recently I have begun to do some offshore racing outside the San Francisco Bay  and I now need to buy my own offshore harness.  I’ve been advised that a a self-inflating harness is the best way to go. However, I work the foredeck. Some people say that you really have to submerge these harnesses for them to inflate, others say that they’ve had them inflate when they are piled in with other wet gear for a period of time. I would appreciate anyone else’s feedback and experience on this before I spend some money. Thanks for the help, Allison Serventi

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