Question:

Nice try, Scott. But nobody’s going to believe that you actually care about fly fishing. Must just be trying to get people on your good side so they’ll vote for Gore. <G

Damn! You caught me. And I thought roffian were dumb… <g right back atcha.

Response:

Thanks for the helpful answers. Of course, it’s the least you could do, after stealing my name…

Response:

Ergo, I have lots of dumb questions about fishing. Here are some: 1.  Summer steelies and chinook both are running in the Deschutes below Shearer’s Falls. I’m familiar with the classic "steelhead swing". Question is: how would I go about targeting chinook in the same water? Why doesn’t the swing pick up chinook too?

well, the swing can pick up chinook… but salmon in rivers just aren’t as aggressive as steelhead plus kings often hold in deeper water than the steelhead… and much of the fishing for steelhead on the deschutes is done with a floating line and kings aren’t apt to move as far for a fly as summer-run steelhead. 2.  What the hell does a Green Butt Skunk or a Freight Train represent? Don’t look like fish; don’t look like bugs; aren’t really all that stimulating… why doesn’t a big chunk of pink yarn with a bead head work as well?

they represent nothing really… they are attrators.  since steelhead do not need to eat to survive in rivers, for the most part they don’t.  you are trying to trigger an instictive or curiosity strike (they don’t have hands so if they want to check out something they check with their mouths).  a chunk of pink yarn will work too… and sometimes probably better than the typical steelhead flies.  of course, there are more realistic steelhead flies, such as the large number of october caddis skating flies, muddlers and stonefly nymphs. 3.  I’m familiar with coho running up smaller creeks during/after a rain, when the water level rises. (I’m thinking of Eagle Creek, off the Clackamas.) Question is, how long after a rain do they run? I went to Eagle Creek on a warm dry day, and there just were no fish in the river (except one that was hanging under a bridge trying to avoid being hit on the head by the plunkers’ lead). I hear that the afternoon of our last rain, zillions ran. So is it only worth fishing for coho there immediately after a rain, or are there other factors (like, do the ones that run up during a rain stay there once they get there, the way steelies do?)

on small creeks they will usually enter during high water events… and imo they bite better when there’s some color to the water.  during low water, look at tidewater areas to find fish moving up and down with the tides.  the coho that run upstream after a high water event will usually stay, but if the water then drops low they will hole up in the deeper parts of the stream or river.  of course, with anadramous fish there are exceptions to every rule <G 4.  I lied in #3. There was one other fish in the creek: a medium coho that kept rolling on the surface of a small pool. Scared him away (see intro paragraph, above). Question is: what they heck are they doing when they roll on top like that? He didn’t seem to be rising to feed…

don’t know why salmon roll.  some people say they do it to loosen their eggs, maybe it’s just boredom waiting to spawn… but i’ve seen them do the same thing out in the ocean when they are months away from entering the rivers and are feeding machines.

Response:

Ergo, I have lots of dumb questions about fishing. Here are some: [snipped]

Nice try, Scott. But nobody’s going to believe that you actually care about fly fishing. Must just be trying to get people on your good side so they’ll vote for Gore. <G –Steve (lemme throw in one more "<g" for good measure)

Response:

I have lots of ideas about things discussed around campfires, but I’ve never pretended to know how to catch fish. My personal contribution to the PETA/AR cause is that not only do I fail to catch fish myself on a fairly consistent basis, but I also put fish down with my clumsy flailing, thereby preventing other fishermen from harming God’s little aquatic creatures either. Ergo, I have lots of dumb questions about fishing. Here are some: 1.  Summer steelies and chinook both are running in the Deschutes below Shearer’s Falls. I’m familiar with the classic "steelhead swing". Question is: how would I go about targeting chinook in the same water? Why doesn’t the swing pick up chinook too? 2.  What the hell does a Green Butt Skunk or a Freight Train represent? Don’t look like fish; don’t look like bugs; aren’t really all that stimulating… why doesn’t a big chunk of pink yarn with a bead head work as well? 3.  I’m familiar with coho running up smaller creeks during/after a rain, when the water level rises. (I’m thinking of Eagle Creek, off the Clackamas.) Question is, how long after a rain do they run? I went to Eagle Creek on a warm dry day, and there just were no fish in the river (except one that was hanging under a bridge trying to avoid being hit on the head by the plunkers’ lead). I hear that the afternoon of our last rain, zillions ran. So is it only worth fishing for coho there immediately after a rain, or are there other factors (like, do the ones that run up during a rain stay there once they get there, the way steelies do?) 4.  I lied in #3. There was one other fish in the creek: a medium coho that kept rolling on the surface of a small pool. Scared him away (see intro paragraph, above). Question is: what they heck are they doing when they roll on top like that? He didn’t seem to be rising to feed… I’ll even condescend to accept answers from those who disagree with me politically! Scott

Response:

Question:

I am looking for a web site that has salt water fly tying. I am going to Key West in June and I would like to tie some flies before I go. Any ideas?

Response:

Try http://www.mindspring.com jim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am looking for a web site that has salt water fly tying. I am going to Key West in June and I would like to tie some flies before I go. Any ideas?

Response:

I apologize my previous post was a bum address try  http://www.mindspring.com/~joeb3   Jim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am looking for a web site that has salt water fly tying. I am going to Key West in June and I would like to tie some flies before I go. Any ideas?

Response:

Thanks! This is exactly what I was looking for. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I apologize my previous post was a bum address try  http://www.mindspring.com/~joeb3  Jim I am looking for a web site that has salt water fly tying. I am going to Key West in June and I would like to tie some flies before I go. Any ideas?

Response:

Try http://www.reel-time.com/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am looking for a web site that has salt water fly tying. I am going to Key West in June and I would like to tie some flies before I go. Any ideas?

Response:

Try Joe Branham’s page www.mindspring.com/~joeb3

Response:

I am looking for a web site that has salt water fly tying. I am going to Key West in June and I would like to tie some flies before I go. Any ideas?

Hi JG, I try to get some sample patterns from someone who fishes the area. I would order some samples of the patterns for the fish that you are after. There are lots of things going on in FL in April/May/June. Example: If you are not renting a boat or going with a guide, you won’t need any tarpon flies, so why tie any? On foot, the most popular thing to fly fish for are bonefish. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop www.kiene.com

Response:

Question:

I was in Orlando on business a couple of months ago. I looked in the Yellow Pages for fishing guides and was just overwhelmed. There were so many that I just couldn’t pick one. Orlando is such a tourist trap that I felt my chances of picking a loser at random were too great. My only other trip to Orlando was about 45 years ago when I was a child. I recall it as a sleepy little place, but it’s sure changed, and much for the worse. If there’s anything in Orlando that isn’t a Disney-like fake I never found it. Their convention center is so big you’d better take a bicycle or roller skates. What’s happened to much of Florida is sad. Do we really need umpteen billion people on the planet? All the good places are being trashed, one after the other. Pretty soon you’ll have to be a billionare to enjoy anything decent. Rant mode off. — something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Florida has many sites on the net.  Check out Florida in the Unitred States section at http://www.davisbrown.com/ffgeo.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am going to Orlando, Florida the 30 of January and I am going to stay there for 6 weeks. I am considering to bring my flyrod, if the flyfishing are good. I’m also looking for a good flyshop with a wide range. If you can help me, I would appreciate it. Tight lines. Jon Arne

Response:

Stick with the Fly Fisherman.  That is unless your in the market for expensive clothing, then by all means Downeast. Regards, David – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – By all means bring the rods, there are some great places to FF within an hour or two of orlando.Both fresh and saltwater.Try these: The Fly Fisherman Inc. 1213 N. Orange Avenue Orlando, FL 32804 (407) 898 1989 and Downeast 538 Park Avenue South Orlando-Winter Park, FL 32789 (407) 645 5100 — Bragging may not bring happiness, but no man having caught a large fish, goes home through the alley. Anonymous http://fish-n-net.com/

Response:

I am going to Orlando, Florida the 30 of January and I am going to stay there for 6 weeks. I am considering to bring my flyrod, if the flyfishing are good. I’m also looking for a good flyshop with a wide range. If you can help me, I would appreciate it. Tight lines. Jon Arne

Response:

By all means bring the rods, there are some great places to FF within an hour or two of orlando.Both fresh and saltwater.Try these: The Fly Fisherman Inc. 1213 N. Orange Avenue Orlando, FL 32804 (407) 898 1989 and Downeast 538 Park Avenue South Orlando-Winter Park, FL 32789 (407) 645 5100 — Bragging may not bring happiness, but no man having caught a large fish, goes home through the alley. Anonymous http://fish-n-net.com/

Response:

I am going to Orlando, Florida the 30 of January and I am going to stay there for 6 weeks. I am considering to bring my flyrod, if the flyfishing are good. I’m also looking for a good flyshop with a wide range. If you can help me, I would appreciate it. Tight lines. Jon Arne

   !’st off, the Orlando area is comprised of other towns nestled together. Being north of Orlando proper 2 shops come to mind, an Orvis (small shop) in Winter Park, there is a larger shop just north of the junction of 434 and 17/92 and I also believe there is a shop in one of the Disney villages. Have no idea from your post as to the type fishing you are interested in. From Orlando you have the choice of the space coast flats on the east coast to bass and panfish in the St.Johns to the north to the Gulf coast to the west. Orlando also has an extensive group of lakes in it’s area ranging from small 1 acre to 20 or more acres, lake info is available from the Fl. game and fish commision on thier site under the heading "fish orlando". Also lake Okachoby (headwaters of the glades(biiiig bass) isn’t all that far. That time span is rather early in the season for fresh but you never know. Good luck.                                                            John Popp                                                         in Sanford Fl.

Response:

Question:

Uh-Oh…I think someone just turned on the heater it’s starting to get hot in here….. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – To all sponsoring and/or midwiving the BASTARD: The news surrounding the birth of the BASTARD is nothing short of fantastic. As a fan of split-cane rods, I salute these efforts and think everyone should have the chance to own and fish a properly tooled and crafted cane rod.  So what about the BASTARD?  Does anyone out there really think that a split-cane rod can be produced for $300???!!!  HELLO?!  ARE WE ALL THAT DELUDED??!!?? Cane hex blanks alone wholesale for over $200 and quadrates are double that. But the BASTARDS will be made from cheap cane in a no-nonsense fashion, as if a BLANK has any nonsense. Cheap cane is cheap because it is covered either with water marks or grower’s marks.  I know, I know…the BASTARD aesthetic is not concerned with aesthetics.  But grower’s marks typically go through the enamel and sever the power bundles.  Yes, this effects casting, noticeably.  Really.  Cane costs could be reduced by making one-tip rods, but that cuts the life of the BASTARD in half. What about the tapers?  Initially, it would be easy enough to sell only one taper/length in each line weight; there are plenty of tapers out on the web. But soon customers won’t be so patient.  You’ll need more.  That means taking the time to reset you planing forms and triple-check the depth.  Then you’ll have to test out guide spacing on each different taper.  Time, time. What about tooling?  To put up with the rigors of production, you’ll have to get decent tooling.  Your cheapest tools will be your planing forms (~$800 for one that will last) and planes (at least four; as much as you want them to be, but don’t skimp on the blades).  Don’t forget your beveler and binder which together go for the price of a year’s tuition at an Ivy-league school.  A good depth guage is a car payment.  And don’t forget your wrapper, whipping thread, sock, tube…  To keep costs down I guess you don’t have to worry about the finish, just use tung-oil.  Then you don’t need varnish, dip-tanks, color-preserver, or any of that.  But tung-oil rods *often* won’t last a half of a decade. What about hardware?  Snakes and tip-tops are no big deal, but forget about the agate (or even agatine) stripper.  If you find a good agate stripper for less than $30, then you haven’t found agate. (Doesn’t sound like much, but that’s already 10% of your rod.)  To keep costs down, what’s wrong with SiC? Hook-keepers?  Anyone who’s read Garrison knows that American cane rod-makers don’t use hook-keepers.  It’s called a stripping guide. Yup.  Saved money there.  Reel seats?  Forget fancy, how about alder?  Don’t even get me started on ferrules. If you can somehow get all the above costs diffused through an enormous production run so that they retail for under $500, you still haven’t paid you labor.  Even if it’s a labor force of one, Mr. G, he’ll need to eat once in a while.  Hobbyists can finish a cane rod in about 40-50 man-hours.  Custom rods from the 30 or so who make cane rods for a living (full-time) take about 80-100 man-hours.  These folks probably want to charge a little more than minimum wage. There are reasons that cane rods cost as much as they do, and there are reasons that the many attempts to produce low-cost cane rods in the last 30 years have failed.  What you get in a properly made and well-crafted cane rod is not only a superior fishing instrument, but a piece of American history. The cane-rod industry is one of the last in this country that consists of independent artisans who apprentice under masters and continue to improve upon the tradition.  If you read up on the history of cane-rods you’ll notice that even though split-cane and greenheart originated in the UK, the modern tradition of split-cane rods is American and any reputable rod-maker can trace his apprenticeship back to a 19th century master.  Yes, they still cost a lot, but if you ever talk to a full-time rod-maker (at the FFF or somewhere) you’ll see that no one gets rich making rods, they do because they love it. And finally…Is there a real difference between cane and graphite or glass? Well, is there a difference between an Aston-Martin and a Geo?  or is there a difference between Night Train and the Famous Grouse?  Both cars will get you where you want to go and both drinks will eventually get you drunk, but I guess it depends on how you want to get there.  Maybe a better analogy is shaving with garden-shears or a straight razor.  One is clumsy and potentially painful and the other, with a little practice, is an instrument of precision and tradition that is a pleasure to use and surpasses all. If you decide to get a split-cane rod, get the right one for the right reasons.  Don’t get any old BASTARD because it is cheap.  Perhaps the BASTARD will be the rod that will change the ff-ing world.  Perhaps not.  But at least talk to a cane rod-maker (check out the cane Rodmakers page at http://home1.gte.net/jfoster/index.htm) to see what kind of rod they can make you and what their rods can do over a production rod. Oh, but I doubt any of of those rodmakers would be able to seel you a Marryat reel.  Tough luck. The Tonkin Kid

Response:

To all sponsoring and/or midwiving the BASTARD:

and George began his reply: ______ That is me, "tonkin kid".  Talk to me.  I’m the man.  I’m the uno numeruno Bastard you need to address yourself too.  Now then?  You were saying?

(remainder of repartee snipped, in my never-ceasing attempt to save band-width) Go get’em George.  We can’t have these blithering naysayers ruining our fun. Mark Faulkner

Response:

‘kid,’ is licking his wounds.  He will heal though and will come back to try to learn  more about us. O.G.O

Response:

Tonkin Kid, I think you should change your name to "The Foolium Kid". 1. Do you know what the price of a bundle of Tonkin cane is. 2. Do you know the average number of good culms in a bundle of Tonkin cane? 3. Do you know how many rods with extra tips can be built with one culm? 4. Do you know how many strips a man using power tools can plain in a day? 5. Do you know how many blanks one man can finish in a day? 4. Do you know what the mark up is on a bamboo rod? I don’t know where you buy your hardware and materials but you won’t ever find me there.  I have seen figures just like yours trying to justify the cost of graphite rods also, but you should peddle your foolium elsewhere, I am not in the market. Ernie Harrison

Response:

To all sponsoring and/or midwiving the BASTARD: The news surrounding the birth of the BASTARD is nothing short of fantastic. As a fan of split-cane rods, I salute these efforts and think everyone should have the chance to own and fish a properly tooled and crafted cane rod.  So what about the BASTARD?  Does anyone out there really think that a split-cane rod can be produced for $300???!!!  HELLO?!  ARE WE ALL THAT DELUDED??!!?? Cane hex blanks alone wholesale for over $200 and quadrates are double that. But the BASTARDS will be made from cheap cane in a no-nonsense fashion, as if a BLANK has any nonsense.   Cheap cane is cheap because it is covered either with water marks or grower’s marks.  I know, I know…the BASTARD aesthetic is not concerned with aesthetics.  But grower’s marks typically go through the enamel and sever the power bundles.  Yes, this effects casting, noticeably.  Really.  Cane costs could be reduced by making one-tip rods, but that cuts the life of the BASTARD in half. What about the tapers?  Initially, it would be easy enough to sell only one taper/length in each line weight; there are plenty of tapers out on the web. But soon customers won’t be so patient.  You’ll need more.  That means taking the time to reset you planing forms and triple-check the depth.  Then you’ll have to test out guide spacing on each different taper.  Time, time. What about tooling?  To put up with the rigors of production, you’ll have to get decent tooling.  Your cheapest tools will be your planing forms (~$800 for one that will last) and planes (at least four; as much as you want them to be, but don’t skimp on the blades).  Don’t forget your beveler and binder which together go for the price of a year’s tuition at an Ivy-league school.  A good depth guage is a car payment.  And don’t forget your wrapper, whipping thread, sock, tube…  To keep costs down I guess you don’t have to worry about the finish, just use tung-oil.  Then you don’t need varnish, dip-tanks, color-preserver, or any of that.  But tung-oil rods *often* won’t last a half of a decade. What about hardware?  Snakes and tip-tops are no big deal, but forget about the agate (or even agatine) stripper.  If you find a good agate stripper for less than $30, then you haven’t found agate. (Doesn’t sound like much, but that’s already 10% of your rod.)  To keep costs down, what’s wrong with SiC? Hook-keepers?  Anyone who’s read Garrison knows that American cane rod-makers don’t use hook-keepers.  It’s called a stripping guide. Yup.  Saved money there.  Reel seats?  Forget fancy, how about alder?  Don’t even get me started on ferrules. If you can somehow get all the above costs diffused through an enormous production run so that they retail for under $500, you still haven’t paid you labor.  Even if it’s a labor force of one, Mr. G, he’ll need to eat once in a while.  Hobbyists can finish a cane rod in about 40-50 man-hours.  Custom rods from the 30 or so who make cane rods for a living (full-time) take about 80-100 man-hours.  These folks probably want to charge a little more than minimum wage. There are reasons that cane rods cost as much as they do, and there are reasons that the many attempts to produce low-cost cane rods in the last 30 years have failed.  What you get in a properly made and well-crafted cane rod is not only a superior fishing instrument, but a piece of American history. The cane-rod industry is one of the last in this country that consists of independent artisans who apprentice under masters and continue to improve upon the tradition.  If you read up on the history of cane-rods you’ll notice that even though split-cane and greenheart originated in the UK, the modern tradition of split-cane rods is American and any reputable rod-maker can trace his apprenticeship back to a 19th century master.  Yes, they still cost a lot, but if you ever talk to a full-time rod-maker (at the FFF or somewhere) you’ll see that no one gets rich making rods, they do because they love it. And finally…Is there a real difference between cane and graphite or glass? Well, is there a difference between an Aston-Martin and a Geo?  or is there a difference between Night Train and the Famous Grouse?  Both cars will get you where you want to go and both drinks will eventually get you drunk, but I guess it depends on how you want to get there.  Maybe a better analogy is shaving with garden-shears or a straight razor.  One is clumsy and potentially painful and the other, with a little practice, is an instrument of precision and tradition that is a pleasure to use and surpasses all. If you decide to get a split-cane rod, get the right one for the right reasons.  Don’t get any old BASTARD because it is cheap.  Perhaps the BASTARD will be the rod that will change the ff-ing world.  Perhaps not.  But at least talk to a cane rod-maker (check out the cane Rodmakers page at http://home1.gte.net/jfoster/index.htm) to see what kind of rod they can make you and what their rods can do over a production rod. Oh, but I doubt any of of those rodmakers would be able to seel you a Marryat reel.  Tough luck.   The Tonkin Kid

Response:

To all sponsoring and/or midwiving the BASTARD:

______ That is me, "tonkin kid".  Talk to me.  I’m the man.  I’m the uno numeruno Bastard you need to address yourself too.  Now then?  You were saying? Oh?  By the way – Refer to me from now on as "O.G.O." The news surrounding the birth of the BASTARD is nothing short of fantastic.

As a fan of split-cane rods, I salute these efforts and think everyone should have the chance to own and fish a properly tooled and crafted cane rod.  So what about the BASTARD?

dense quality Imported Just For this bastard. Does anyone out there really think that a split-cane rod can be produced for $300???!!!

HELLO?!  ARE WE ALL THAT DELUDED??!!??

Cane hex blanks alone wholesale for over $200 and quadrates are double that.

But the BASTARDS will be made from cheap cane in a no-nonsense fashion, as if a BLANK has any nonsense.

more careful on who you’re talking too here ‘tonkin kid’.  Is that it?  "Tonkin Kid?"  Are you saying you have the market cornered on cheap bamboo?  Sorry.  We don’t want any. Cheap cane is cheap because it is covered either with water marks or grower’s marks.  I know, I know…the BASTARD aesthetic is not concerned with aesthetics.

BASTARD BAMBOO FLY ROD.  This fly fishing world is ready for a Beautiful Bastard – and this is it.  In fact, you’re beginning to qualify for one. But grower’s marks typically go through the enamel and sever the power bundles.  Yes, this effects casting, noticeably.  Really.  Cane costs could be reduced by making one-tip rods, but that cuts the life of the BASTARD in half.

equate your kind of foolishness with a high quality BASTARD FLY ROD.  "Don’t Tread On Me Dude"  Just might become a Bastard Model.  Thank goodness, nothing you’ve said so far applies to a BASTARD FLY ROD.  "Half Life," looks more promising to the "tonkin kid," buddy.  Where do you get off making such outlandish statements and lies?  Do you work for Bill Clinton? What about the tapers?

Initially, it would be easy enough to sell only one taper/length in each line weight; there are plenty of tapers out on the web.

But soon customers won’t be so patient.

You’ll need more.  That means taking the time to reset you planing forms and triple-check the depth.  Then you’ll have to test out guide spacing on each different taper.  Time, time.

BASTARD BAMBOO FLY ROD.  Like I said.  I’m rich. What about tooling?  To put up with the rigors of production, you’ll have to get decent tooling.

tooling is the best in the world.  Do you want to come and work for me? Your cheapest tools will be your planing forms (~$800 for one that will last) and planes (at least four; as much as you want them to be, but don’t skimp on the blades).  Don’t forget your beveler and binder which together go for the price of a year’s tuition at an Ivy-league school.  A good depth guage is a car payment.  And don’t forget your wrapper, whipping thread, sock, tube…  To keep costs down I guess you don’t have to worry about the finish, just use tung-oil.  Then you don’t need varnish, dip-tanks, color-preserver, or any of that.  But tung-oil rods *often* won’t last a half of a decade.

shop.  Everything is free except raw materials.  You need to get your planing forms from someone that doesn’t screw you all the time, kid.  It was "kid" – right? What about hardware?  Snakes and tip-tops are no big deal, but forget about the agate (or even agatine) stripper.  If you find a good agate stripper for less than $30, then you haven’t found agate. (Doesn’t sound like much, but that’s already 10% of your rod.)  To keep costs down, what’s wrong with SiC? Hook-keepers?  Anyone who’s read Garrison knows that American cane rod-makers don’t use hook-keepers.  It’s called a stripping guide. Yup.  Saved money there.  Reel seats?  Forget fancy, how about alder?  Don’t even get me started on ferrules.

have too but, I will admit I’d rather just buy them ready made.  You’re down to nickle/dime stuff.  Hardware.  No mystery in hardware.  If we can’t buy it at a price that is fair, we will make it right here. Kid, you just don’t know what the hell  you’re talking about.  If we can build it cheaper, guess what the choice is going to be? If you can somehow get all the above costs diffused through an enormous production run so that they retail for under $500, you still haven’t paid you labor.  Even if it’s a labor force of one, Mr. G, he’ll need to eat once in a while.  Hobbyists can finish a cane rod in about 40-50 man-hours.  Custom rods from the 30 or so who make cane rods for a living (full-time) take about 80-100 man-hours.  These folks probably want to charge a little more than minimum wage.

person operation.  Automation on as much as is possible is guaranteed.  Those ‘full time’ rod makers have to cut the vacations and coffee breaks pal. I just love it when all these losers keep equating how others should run their businesses.  Has anyone latched onto that yet?  "Welllllllll?"  They think.  If it takes ME 100 hours to make a bamboo fly rod, that means its going to take you 100 hours too." wrong! There are reasons that cane rods cost as much as they do, and there are reasons that the many attempts to produce low-cost cane rods in the last 30 years have failed.  What you get in a properly made and well-crafted cane rod is not only a superior fishing instrument, but a piece of American history. The cane-rod industry is one of the last in this country that consists of independent artisans who apprentice under masters and continue to improve upon the tradition.  If you read up on the history of cane-rods you’ll notice that even though split-cane and greenheart originated in the UK, the modern tradition of split-cane rods is American and any reputable rod-maker can trace his apprenticeship back to a 19th century master.  Yes, they still cost a lot, but if you ever talk to a full-time rod-maker (at the FFF or somewhere) you’ll see that no one gets rich making rods, they do because they love it.

BASTARDS. And finally…Is there a real difference between cane and graphite or glass?

_______Well, gee?  I don’t know?  Is there a difference between land and water? The moon and the sun?  Your wife as compared to mine?  Golfing in the middle of a street and a fairway?  You tell us kid.  This is a heavy question. Well, is there a difference between an Aston-Martin and a Geo?  or is there a difference between Night Train and the Famous Grouse?  Both cars will get you where you want to go and both drinks will eventually get you drunk, but I guess it depends on how you want to get there.  Maybe a better analogy is shaving with garden-shears or a straight razor.  One is clumsy and potentially painful and the other, with a little practice, is an instrument of precision and tradition that is a pleasure to use and surpasses all.

qualified.  Park it dude.  Your engine is racing but your tires are standing still.  All this has NOTHING to do with   BASTARD FLY RODS.  You have not one, single, base point to stand on.  You are just (to be perfectly frank) a baseless opinion.  A noise.  A silent fart in church.  You are way off base on nearly everything.  But!  That is okay.  We get them like you here all the time.  We just need to soften you up a little and get you drunk a time or two.  We might even teach you how to be a success.  Here, anything is possible.  Even for you kid. If you decide to get a split-cane rod, get the right one for the right reasons.  Don’t get any old BASTARD because it is cheap.

pine tree all the time?  Just LISTEN to yourself!  Quote:  "Don’t get any old BASTARD because it is cheap."  Well, there are no other BASTARDS and these are not old.  Right away, you make yourself out an idiot of principle, ‘kid’. This also isn’t ANY old BASTARD.  That is another mistake.  It is my BASTARD FLY ROD COMPANY and you have NO RIGHT to say or ASSUME the things you’re doing here . . . kid. (God, I love this place!) Perhaps the BASTARD

‘hope’ for ‘the kid.’  What do you guys think?  Is he or is not ‘the kid’ qualifying as a real bastard who should own a bastard? will be the rod that will change the ff-ing world.

life.  How do we know?  Because you’re HERE!  It is everyone’s pleasure to meet a cynic such as  yourself.  You

… read more »

Response:

Question:

This is a skins game.  .50 each per hole.  If we have four or eight players, the first hole is going to be worth 4 Bucks man! Where is your sense of adventure?  The third  hole could be worth $12 dollars!  Why, that is enough to take us out to dinner in North Carolina and I mean . . . everyone! Bring the Pings!  Otherwise we will have to kill you.

I think I’ll take that afternoon off and go nutball huntin’, that’s a million bucks right there<g. — Charlie…

Response:

know how to kibbitz Wayno, you’re hired for half my winnings! George, I teach high performance and pursuit driving to cops.  I  don’t know whether you’d want to be in a golf cart with me. <g  But I can kibbitz.  Sounds like fun. Dave Dave LaCourse

Response:

Oh boy, hog jowls and boiled parsnips. — Ernie Harrison Want something to do? Go to:  http://users.ccnet.com/~emh – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This is a skins game.  .50 each per hole.  If we have four or eight players, the first hole is going to be worth 4 Bucks man! Where is your sense of adventure?  The third  hole could be worth $12 dollars!  Why, that is enough to take us out to dinner in North Carolina and I mean . . . everyone!

Response:

Oh boy, hog jowls and boiled parsnips.

It’s an acquired taste<g. — Charlie…

Response:

Nothing is tastier than Carolina pork barbecue. I’ll have mine with collard greens. Can’t get either up here.. Tim Lysyk – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Oh boy, hog jowls and boiled parsnips. — Ernie Harrison Want something to do? Go to:  http://users.ccnet.com/~emh This is a skins game.  .50 each per hole.  If we have four or eight players, the first hole is going to be worth 4 Bucks man! Where is your sense of adventure?  The third  hole could be worth $12 dollars!  Why, that is enough to take us out to dinner in North Carolina and I mean . . . everyone!

Response:

How long does it take to acquire it Charlie? — Ernie Harrison Want something to do? Go to:  http://users.ccnet.com/~emh – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Oh boy, hog jowls and boiled parsnips. It’s an acquired taste<g. — Charlie…

Response:

How long does it take to acquire it Charlie?

Don’t know, not quite there yet<g. On the other hand, meat from the jowls is probably pretty good; if you’ve ever eaten canned chili or stew you have had ‘cheek meat’ from cattle. I worked for a while at a slaughter house in the 60’s when I was in college and you might be surprised what’s in your favorite snack<G. — Charlie…

Response:

How long does it take to acquire it Charlie? Don’t know, not quite there yet<g. On the other hand, meat from the jowls is probably pretty good; if you’ve ever eaten canned chili or stew you have had ‘cheek meat’ from cattle. I worked for a while at a slaughter house in the 60’s when I was in college and you might be surprised what’s in your favorite snack<G. — Charlie…

chili cook-off’ because it so happens, no one makes a better bowl of chili then I do.  They might be ‘almost’ as wonderful, but certainly, not what the Gods of Gink know is an absolute delight.  Hum?  "The Great Gods of Gink Chili-Cook-Off?" Anyhow, I can make a big pot of Gink’s Chili AND "Gink-Dip"  (if you’re laughing Walt I’m going to smack you) which we take with us as a special treat and surprise on our Fly Fishing Float Trips.  Gink Dip is most certainly the "Super Snack" every outdoorsman should know about if they’re looking for something nice and different.  Gink Dip is an invention of mine geared around "White Tuna" and is note enjoyed with a fork but rather with crackers and a refreshment.  Saltines are a favorite. Talk about what might surprise you . . . George —

Question:

– Now booking Cape Cod, MA inshore fly fishing wading trips for stripers for the 97 season. I supply all tackle and flies as well as casting instructions if needed. If you don’t score stripers, I don’t get paid. Fair enough? $125/single $200/two anglers for a full day wading trip. Email me http://www.flyfishing-the-salt.com. Email references given upon request. Good fishing…Ted Bobetsky

Response:

– Now booking Cape Cod, MA inshore fly fishing wading trips for stripers for the 97 season. I supply all tackle and flies as well as casting instructions if needed. If you don’t score stripers, I don’t get paid. Fair enough? $125/single $200/two anglers for a full day wading trip. Email me http://www.flyfishing-the-salt.com. Good fishing…Ted Bobetsky

Response:

Question:

  Which sinking line should I choose for nymph fishing in small rivers?   unless the river is really large, you don’t need a sinking at all…   TimW

Do you change for a sinking leader or will the nymph drag the leader down with it quickly enough? Peter. —  Peter Sollander, CERN ST/MC/TCR  Tel: (+41) 22.767.8081          Fax: (+41) 22.767.8910        

Response:

  Which sinking line should I choose for nymph fishing in small rivers?   unless the river is really large, you don’t need a sinking at all…   TimW Do you change for a sinking leader or will the nymph drag the leader down with it quickly enough?

I use a long leader and split shot and fish effectively in 6+ feet of water.  One spot in particular that comes to mind.  The majority of the Roaring Fork flows between these two big rocks right in the main channel causing impressive rapids.  I would routinely wade deep right to the edge of this and nail nice ‘bows one nymphs fished deep with 5 or more BB’s right in this fast water.   My problem with sinking lines, leaders etc. is that the fly will float up from the bottom too far, unless the weight is RIGHT THERE within 6 inches or so of the bug.  A fly one or two feet off the bottom in this fast water will not catch fish. TimW For larger rivers, and some streamer applications, a Hi-speed, Hi-D Sinking tip line is WAY cool.  Dragging a big wooley behind a driftboat with a sink tip can be deadly. TimW

Response:

: If the river is unusually fast or deep, you might want to use a sink : tip, the weight of the line depends on what your rod is rated for. The : idea is to get the nymph to bounce on the bottom once in a while. A : small split shot or some "Shape-A-Weight" on the leader can do the same : thing. True. A great time and money saver. : As far as being a beginning caster, I would get the Weight Forward (WF) : line as it is easier to put the fly where you want it. I’ve been told this often, but my experience has been that they’re really not that much easier to cast than a DT line, and DT lines turn over a mite easier. PLus, you can turn ‘em around when then get worn! –mike

Response:

Which sinking line should I choose for nymph fishing in small rivers? DT, WF?  sinking tip? #1-#4? and what about leaders?  Sinking? Fast Sinking, Extra Fast Sinking?

If you are fishing "small rivers" I wouldn’t bother with a sinking line. You can get a fly down to the fish even with a floating line. A long leader with a small split shot or bead head  will do in most situations. I’ve been tying beads into the body of many nymphs instead of lead and find they work great. You can also add a sink tip to your line, sized to the situation. I always carry a few in different sizes just in case. If you are planning to fish a lake, or a fast, deep river then a sinking line would be handy. I carry a med. sink for lakes and time the decent. For Steehead in rivers I pack a floating, 10 ft. sink tip, and a 24 ft 325 gn. sink tip. The last line works great for strippers….but casting is kind of chuck and duck….

Response:

For nymph fishing small rivers and creeks a floating line is generally all that is required.  For especially deep hole a weight forward would be a good choice, but in  most instances a floating line with a leader set for the depth of water, and a strike indicator, is my general set-up of choice. Clint

Response:

writes: Which sinking line should I choose for nymph fishing in small rivers? DT, WF?  sinking tip? #1-#4? and what about leaders?  Sinking? Fast Sinking, Extra Fast Sinking? What’s a beginner’s choice Any ideas?

Hi Pete, I would not choose a sinking line for nymph fishing in most situations. The object of most nymph fishing is to get the fly to *dead drift* in the bottom 6" or so of water.  It’s very tough to dead drift a nymph on a sinking line as you have no control over the sinking line once it sinks. You are at the mercy of the currents because you can’t mend the line.  It is much more effective to fish nymphs on a floating line with a long leader because you can mend it and control the drift; and it’s especially effective to use a strike indicator to suspend the nymph exactly where you want in the water column and drift it down the current lane you choose. If you want particulars on this, drop me some e-mail & I’ll let you know how to set such a system up, along with casts to help you fish it. The place I use a full sinking line is in a lake as it allows you to swim your fly right over the top of weedbeds and structure which is very difficult to do with a floating line and a long leader.  Works well because there is no current in the lake to push your line around.  You could also use a sink tip for this though It tends to rise up a bit as you retrieve it.   A sink tip is a good choice in rivers because you can mend the belly section (the floating part) to control the sinking part.  Unfortunately it’s not real good for "dead drifts" as you need to have some tension on the line to detect the strike and if you have tension on the line you’re not getting a dead drift.  I will use a sink tip for swimming streamers across the current and also for swinging nymphs through the current to imitate a big swimming nymph (like an isonychia) or perhaps a caddis pupa (rarely but once in a while). Don’t feel you need to go out and buy all the different types of lines – floating, sinking (in 6 different densities), and sink tips (in all the different densities and about 10 or 12 different lengths).  Get a floating line and learn how to use it.  Then if you are going to fish specific conditions – such as on a lake at a depth of 10 feet deep – get the appropriate line for those conditions.  Otherwise you can go out and buy 6 different lines or more and still not have the one you need when you need it.                                          Hope this helps,                                                   Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

Response:

Which sinking line should I choose for nymph fishing in small rivers? DT, WF?  sinking tip? #1-#4? and what about leaders?  Sinking? Fast Sinking, Extra Fast Sinking? What’s a beginner’s choice Any ideas? Cheers,        Pete. —  Peter Sollander, CERN ST/MC/TCR  Tel: (+41) 22.767.8081          Fax: (+41) 22.767.8910        

Response:

Which sinking line should I choose for nymph fishing in small rivers?

unless the river is really large, you don’t need a sinking at all… TimW

Response:

Which sinking line should I choose for nymph fishing in small rivers?

If the river is unusually fast or deep, you might want to use a sink tip, the weight of the line depends on what your rod is rated for. The idea is to get the nymph to bounce on the bottom once in a while. A small split shot or some "Shape-A-Weight" on the leader can do the same thing. As far as being a beginning caster, I would get the Weight Forward (WF) line as it is easier to put the fly where you want it.

Response:

Question:

-run-off on upper Bow usually in mid June to early July at latest – lower Bow and Crow would be 2-3 weeks earlier – this year will be heavy as mountain snow-pack is 150% – early May should be okay barring anything unusual                              Dan Bell, Upper Bow Fly Fishing Co. Banff

Response:

: -run-off on upper Bow usually in mid June to early July at latest : – lower Bow and Crow would be 2-3 weeks earlier : – this year will be heavy as mountain snow-pack is 150% : – early May should be okay barring anything unusual :                              Dan Bell, Upper Bow Fly Fishing Co. Banff How would you stagger your fishing trips so as to avoid run-off in SW Alberta?  For example, could I fish the lower Bow in May, switch to the upper Crow in late May/early July, etc? Pete

Response:

Question:

I’m thinking of buying a Winston 9′ 6 weight rod. I’m interested in hearing peoples’ opinions about Winston rods. Does anyone know what the company means when they refer to "Winston action"?

I have a 9′ 2-piece 7 weight that I used for a week in Alaska (Wood- Tikchik State Park) last summer for rainbows, sockeye salmon, and arctic char.  The rod is a little slower than, say, a Sage, but it it really a pleasure to cast and especially to play fish with. It might not be as great for casting heavy or bulky flies in the wind, but it really is fun for most fishing.  A very distinctive feel and definitely plenty of muscle for fighting big fish. I also use that one a lot for bass bug fishing here in Iowa and just love it. Bob

Response:

It might not be as great for casting heavy or bulky flies in the wind, but it really is fun for most fishing.  A very distinctive feel and definitely plenty of muscle for fighting big fish.

I love the Winston rods and use almost nothing else.  The one occasion to go to something stronger, however, is, as suggested, for bulky flies in the wind.  Other than that situation, however, the "Winston Action." is perfect for me. BTW, there has been thread on the Flyfish listserve that would indicate that Winston rods have a very broad and loyal following. Lyman Hughes                                               Dallas, TX                                               Ennis, MT

Response:

I have two Winston Rods—they are "sweet."  I have an 8′ 3wt made from 1st generation graphite and an 8 1/2" 3 pc. 5wt.  The 3wt is my small stream, light action tool. It excels at small flies, fine tippets in the close to medium ranges, is ultra lite in the hand and will lay up to 65′ with a little effort…still pinpoin acuracy. My 5wt is for bigger streams. I prefer the 8 1/2" legnth over the 9′ for personal reasons.  The im6 graphite is a little faster, but is "sweet" to cast.  It feels so light in my hand and smooth on the cast it is a joy to use. I’ve fly fished for 18 years and these rods are the ones I’ll use till my last fishing day.  The comsetics, the Winston action are as allthe other posts describe.  Winston is the epitome of what a quality production rod should be and expect to pay dearly for it…then enjoy!  

Response:

I’ve owned several winston rods, my 9′6" 6 wt.Graphite I, is my favorite. My idea of the "winston action" is a slower to moderate action rod, i.e. it bends deeply into the butt section. I find for me this action is the best. Your feeling on casting a rod is the most important element in buying any rod.

Response:

I’m thinking of buying a Winston 9′ 6 weight rod. I’m interested in hearing peoples’ opinions about Winston rods. Does anyone know what the company means when they refer to "Winston action"?

Hmmm…I’m an incredible Winston bigot (consider yourselves warned!) – I own three of their rods and am eyeing a fourth (all of them are for freshwater use) – and yet I’m not certain how to convey the feel of their rods…But I’ll give it a go… First of all, they’re incredibly smooth, from tip to butt – a true progressive taper using IM6 graphite with resultant progressive action (using the standard jargon, I guess most freshwater Winston rods would be "medium/fast" to "medium" – though some of their short rods might be considered "fast"). A Winston loads easily enough to make a short cast, but has enough backbone to support you on those wind-fighting long reaches. Such are the hallmarks of a well designed progressive action rod… Speaking of the tip: Winston is known for their tip designs, and I don’t believe you’ll find a rod made by anyone that will protect fine tippets better than a Winston. I have no fear in using 7x-8x tippets in low/clear water situations even when I know there’s a good chance that a 3 or 4 pound landlock salmon or wild brookie will latch on. I’ve landed large fish using fine tippets under tough conditions that I just *know* were kept on the line as much because of the rod as my abilities. (Hey – that’s the way it should be – we’re partners! ;^) Regarding more aesthetic qualities: I defy anyone to show me an off-the-shelf rod that is better appointed and finished than any model Winston you might look at. They’re simply beautiful. You won’t find a cheap plastic winding check on a Winston, or aluminum or steel reel seats with PhonyWood ™ inserts – they use German Silver and exotic wood components instead. They use high grade cork for their grips, and high quality strippers, snakes, and tiptops. First rate stuff…And you’ll never find a rod wrapped better than a Winston – a flawless emerald green jewel… Besides my Winston collection, I also own a couple of GLoomis IMX rods (for AtSal & striper/bluefish/false albacore use), a Sage RPL (bassin’ and schoolies), and a full custom built on a GLoomis IM6 blank (backup trout/landlock rod). All very fine rods, well designed/manufactured for the tasks I use them for. But they don’t give me the same sheer pleasure to hold and cast as the Winstons do… If you’re looking for blinding speed – pass on the Winstons and get a GLoomis IMX. Otherwise, spend some time at your local shop’s "casting pool" (be it grass, asphault, or *real water* ;^) with a Winston… /dave (geeze – he sure does get carried away, don’t he? ;^) <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.    Alpha Server Engineering  < <           "Read this and nobody gets hurt"           < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Response:

I’m thinking of buying a Winston 9′ 6 weight rod. I’m interested in hearing peoples’ opinions about Winston rods. Does anyone know what the company means when they refer to "Winston action"?

I use the three-piece 9′ #6 model and like it better than any I have tried.  Three years ago it was the only three-piece model I could find and that is what I wanted so I cast it and it felt so nice that I saved my pennies and bought it.  Now there are other three-piece rods on the market.  In this price range you should try Scott too.  I could not tell the difference in action from the two-piece but if you hike or travel at all this is a real convenience. The Winston action is a soft tip with a medium, fully flexing butt, more reminiscent of classic cane than most of today’s fast stiff graphite. I mostly cast big loops because I use long leaders and often use two-fly rigs and big loops prevent tangling and this rod does that very well.  It also loads easily at short distances. If you fish a very tight crisp loop or need to cast for long distance as the primary consderation, you will like the stiffer rods better. Last year I hooked a steelhead over ten pounds unexpectedly on this rod, and had to try to horse the thing back up past a rock he had gone around and beyond.  I knew this was really abuse but held the reel tight and really put a bend in it, and found it had the power to do this (unfortunately later in the game the leader parted at the abrasion). I think the best word for Winston action is lively. Whether casting or playing fish, it feels springy and sensitive. I wholeheartedly recommend their rods. Mark Vinsel Visit my gallery: http://www.lanminds.com/local/vinnie/gallery.HTML

Response:

Have use Winstons for 15 years.  Fell they are the best rods onmarket.  Can handle a King Salmon on my 8 wgt.  Nice beause between a 4wgt and 10 wgt, they all cast the same. — Gene Dobrzynski, Eagle River, Alaska

Response:

I have two Winstons, one of which is a 9′0 for 6 wt. three pc. This is a great rod. Like most of the other people who have responded to your inquiry I have several other rods (including cane) which are used for various situations but for a production graphite rod I think the Winstons are in a class by themselves. Before I bought the 6 wt I tried a Sage SP+ in  a 5wt. with a Wulff 5/6 Triangle Taper line which was very nice. Ultimately the Winstons superior aesthetics and more subtle action (the Winston Action!) tipped the scales in favor of the Winston. If you have already bought the Winston (or whatever rod you selected) enjoy it. If not, good luck withyour decision Bill Sadataki

Response:

I’m thinking of buying a Winston 9′ 6 weight rod. I’m interested in hearing peoples’ opinions about Winston rods. Does anyone know what the company means when they refer to "Winston action"?

Response:

"I’m thinking of buying a Winston 9′ 6 weight rod. I’m interested in hearing peoples’ opinions about Winston rods. Does anyone know what the company means when they refer to "Winston action"?" I am familiar withthe Winston rods.  I own a couple (including the 9′ 6wt) and have made several rods from Winston blanks for others.  Here are my thoughts. I very much like the Winston  rods.  The "Winston action" is a slow action that is true for all IM6 graphite rods, but is particularly smooth in the Winstons.  My favorite rods are the Winstons in the lighter weights.  The ones that I have made have been three weights.  Perfect mid-range, spring creek, dry fly rods.  O secondary importance, but also nice, is the fact that the deep green rods are absolutely beautiful. Two words of caution.  The softer action carries into the heavier rods as well.  this makes a 6wt a very nice rod for longer distances or a little wind when a lighter rod just won’t cut it.  But if you have a heavy wind, the "Winston action" just isn’t strong enough.  If you need an IMX, the IM6 just won’t do the job.  So if you are planning on getting the 9′ 6wt for heavy wind conditions, I would caution against it. Second, Winston just switched to its own factory for the manufacture of its blanks.  Before now, the blanks came from Loomis to Winston specs.  I assume (and have been assured by people at the factory) that the action of the blanks made by Winston will be the same action as the ones from Loomis.  Time will tell, but I have already made one rod with the new blanks, and it was perfect. (BTW, if you are near or in Twin Bridges, MT, go by the Winston factory.  Thepeole are very friendly and wil be glad to show you around.) Finally, although I am a big fan of the Winstons, you should try out any rod that you are considering buying if you are not familiar with the action.  What is right for one person may not be right for another. Good luck,                                               Dallas, TX                                               Ennis, MT

Response:

Question:

Once upon a time after a full day of fishing I tied on a olive

wooly bugger, turned around and cast down stream and let all of my line out in the current.  The I started reeling, yes thats right reeling the line back in.  And guess what.  The trout loved it. Hope I am not stipped of my rod and waders for admit<<< Hey, they call that slamming fish where i come from, and its a hell of technique.  Works great for steelhead and salmon. Tom — "For the love of the fly, the cycle of spring, and all things that remind us of nature’s cruel dance."

Response:

Colin Albert writes: My favorite patterns are similar – elk hair caddis, lt cahill, griffin gnat renegade, adams.  But, and I am a bit ashamed to admit this — I have caught more trout and larger trout on a #16 royal wulff than any other.  There, I saidit.  This fly has seemed to go out of favor, and I wonder why.  Am I the onlyone that ties this on when nothing is working???

I use the Royal Wulff #14 on small mountain streams in New Mexico. It is the best single producer for me. I wonder how much color can be seen from below water, and how much the fisherman can see. May improve the fisherman’s odds ? Nothing makes a more attentive fisherman than a fly that he thinks is going to work ! Arch Thiessen an indian trader from Santa Fe ******* Arch Thiessen                                                 "never put off ’till tomorrow what can be put off ’till next week" . . . anon

Response:

My favorite patterns are similar – elk hair caddis, lt cahill, griffin gnat renegade, adams.  But, and I am a bit ashamed to admit this — I have caught more trout and larger trout on a #16 royal wulff than any other.  There, I saidit.  This fly has seemed to go out of favor, and I wonder why.  Am I the onlyone that ties this on when nothing is working???

I’ve caught alot of Brown Trout on the Royal Wulff in the small lakes in the hills of Mid Wales. It seems to work especially well in a flat calm and can bring fish to the surface if twitched rather than fished static. I’m never sure if this is simply because of the disturbance caused or whether the pattern has something to do with it. A Grey Wulff of the same size doesn’t seem to have the same effect. Any answers? Oliver Hides BBC Wales Cardiff.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -My favorite patterns are similar – elk hair caddis, lt cahill, griffin gnat renegade, adams.  But, and I am a bit ashamed to admit this — I have caught more trout and larger trout on a #16 royal wulff than any other.  There, I saidit.  This fly has seemed to go out of favor, and I wonder why.  Am I the onlyone that ties this on when nothing is working??? I’ve caught alot of Brown Trout on the Royal Wulff in the small lakes in the hills of Mid Wales. It seems to work especially well in a flat calm and can bring fish to the surface if twitched rather than fished static. I’m never sure if this is simply because of the disturbance caused or whether the pattern has something to do with it. A Grey Wulff of the same size doesn’t seem to have the same effect. Any answers? Oliver Hides BBC Wales Cardiff.

Once upon a time after a full day of fishing I tied on a olive wooly bugger, turned around and cast down stream and let all of my line out in the current.  The I started reeling, yes thats right reeling the line back in.  And guess what.  The trout loved it. Hope I am not stipped of my rod and waders for admitting this. heheh Tom

Response:

: : : : I’ve caught alot of Brown Trout on the Royal Wulff in the small lakes in the : hills of Mid Wales. It seems to work especially well in a flat calm : and can bring fish to the surface if twitched rather than fished static. I’m : never sure if this is simply because of the disturbance caused or whether the : Once upon a time after a full day of fishing I tied on a olive wooly bugger, : turned around and cast down stream and let all of my line out in the current. :  The I started reeling, yes thats right reeling the line back in.  And guess : what.  The trout loved it. Hope I am not stipped of my rod and waders for : admitting this. heheh : Tom Anyone who would strip you of anything for catching fish on a particular fly is just a snob.  I have had lots of luck with wooly buggers as well as Royal Wulffs.  I think the Royal Wulff is a beautiful fly and is described by the original tyer Lee Wulff as a nice desert for fish…

Response: