Question:

The principal of my elementary school was named Lyman Edward Angel. Had a daughter that was a little older than me that was friends with my sis, but I can’t remember her name. Small world. That’s my wife’s aunt. Drew

Hit me just now. Her name is Dawn. That the one? — Charles Davis    K4SWB <I’m The NRA

Response:

Seems like there are a lot of NC boys here. I’m in Lenoir which is pronounced:  "len-war"–like that fellas name that painted out of focus pictures, Renoir– at least  to us sofisticated folk. Actually grew-up and live in the Raleigh–name after the cigerette brand– area most my life, but don’t ever expect to move back.

Not as long as I live here, anyway.

Response:

charles, i reside in the sunny community of foscoe… –waldo Seems like there are a lot of NC boys here. If you feel like it, tell me where in NC you are. I’m in Reidsville. Just north of Greensboro. I’m gonna make me a list of who is here, and where each of you are, and thought I’d start out close to home. Thanks. — Charles Davis    K4SWB <I’m The NRA

– Tight Lines, –Walt Fly Fishing NC & more… http://www.ezflyfish.com http://www.wilsoncreekoutfitters.com

Response:

charles, i reside in the sunny community of foscoe… –waldo

That’s near Morganton, right? — Charles Davis    K4SWB <I’m The NRA

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charles, i reside in the sunny community of foscoe… –waldo That’s near Morganton, right? —

actually, near boone. the store is in morganton. –walt

Response:

actually, near boone. the store is in morganton. –walt

Gotcha. — Charles Davis    K4SWB <I’m The NRA

Response:

Hit me just now. Her name is Dawn. That the one?

That’s the one. Drew

Response:

……I’m gonna make me a list of who is here, and where each of you are…..

Uh oh. Wolfgang somewhere in stanley.

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greenville, with a plot of ground on england branch in graham county… jeff Noted. —

uh oh. Charles Davis    K4SWB <I’m The NRA

UH OH! Wolfgang

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – greenville, with a plot of ground on england branch in graham county… jeff Noted. — uh oh. Charles Davis   K4SWB <I’m The NRA UH OH! Wolfgang

Response:

Seems like there are a lot of NC boys here. If you feel like it, tell me where in NC you are.

I’m in Atlanta, but it’s the source of most of the folks fishing the Nantahala. <g — Charlie…

Response:

Seems like there are a lot of NC boys here.

I’m in Lenoir which is pronounced:  "len-war"–like that fellas name that painted out of focus pictures, Renoir– at least  to us sofisticated folk. Actually grew-up and live in the Raleigh–name after the cigerette brand– area most my life, but don’t ever expect to move back. Mark  –aka Opie, Op, asshole, shit-maggot–

Response:

The principal of my elementary school was named Lyman Edward Angel. Had a daughter that was a little older than me that was friends with my sis, but I can’t remember her name.

Small world. That’s my wife’s aunt. Drew

Response:

. I’m in Lenoir which is pronounced:  "len-war"–like that fellas name that painted out of focus pictures, Renoir– at least  to us sofisticated folk.

I’ve never heard it pronounced that way, but then I know few sofisticates. Actually grew-up and live in the Raleigh–name after the cigerette brand– area most my life, but don’t ever expect to move back.

I went there once, and that was enough. Mark  –aka Opie, Op, asshole, shit-maggot–

Sounds like we might be kin. — Charles Davis    K4SWB <I’m The NRA

Response:

greenville, with a plot of ground on england branch in graham county… jeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Seems like there are a lot of NC boys here. If you feel like it, tell me where in NC you are. I’m in Reidsville. Just north of Greensboro. I’m gonna make me a list of who is here, and where each of you are, and thought I’d start out close to home. Thanks.

Response:

Seems like there are a lot of NC boys here. If you feel like it, tell me where in NC you are. I’m in Reidsville. Just north of Greensboro.

        sweet baby jesus–rockingham county.  where do you keep your trailer? I’m gonna make me a list of who is here, and where each of you are, and thought I’d start out close to home. Thanks.

        now charles, this here ain’t one of them 1984 big brother deals, is it?         just kiddin, of course.  some of my best friends live in rockingham county. wayno 1519 whilden place greensboro  27408

Response:

says… I’m in Charlotte. Grew up in Asheville with time spent in Watauga County. You familiar with any Angels or Trents up that way? Matter of fact I’ll be up there on the 9th for a wedding. Drew Patterson

The principal of my elementary school was named Lyman Edward Angel. Had a daughter that was a little older than me that was friends with my sis, but I can’t remember her name. Betty Sue Trent ran the record store, and I went to school with some Trents, but that was loooooong ago, and in another galaxy, it seems. Got some neighbors named Patterson. — Charles Davis    K4SWB <I’m The NRA

Response:

greenville, with a plot of ground on england branch in graham county… jeff

Noted. — Charles Davis    K4SWB <I’m The NRA

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says…    sweet baby jesus–rockingham county.  where do you keep your trailer?

I should be so lucky. Still living in the truck, ‘cept when Shirley needs it to get to work at the beauty saloon.    now charles, this here ain’t one of them 1984 big brother deals, is it?

Nah. Just curious. What started me thinking was that it seems that whenever you all have a clave, they make the NC boys get off by themselves.    just kiddin, of course.  some of my best friends live in rockingham county.

I stayed in G’boro for a while, till she tossed me out. — Charles Davis    K4SWB <I’m The NRA

Response:

On the assumption that displaced Tarheels count, I’m just outside St Louis. Born in Murphy (Cherokee county) and grew up in Henderson county. I figger Missouri appreciates the cultural benefit provided by North Carolinians so much that they just won’t let me go. Still go to Murphy several times a year and have to go to Charlotte occasionally. I do have an annual NC non-resident fishing license. Bob Patton

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Seems like there are a lot of NC boys here. If you feel like it, tell me where in NC you are. I’m in Reidsville. Just north of Greensboro. I’m gonna make me a list of who is here, and where each of you are, and thought I’d start out close to home. Thanks. — Charles Davis    K4SWB <I’m The NRA

Response:

says… On the assumption that displaced Tarheels count, I’m just outside St Louis. Born in Murphy (Cherokee county) and grew up in Henderson county. I figger Missouri appreciates the cultural benefit provided by North Carolinians so much that they just won’t let me go. Still go to Murphy several times a year and have to go to Charlotte occasionally. I do have an annual NC non-resident fishing license. Bob Patton

Everyone counts. I’ve just started a list so I can put people and places together. — Charles Davis    K4SWB <I’m The NRA

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Seems like there are a lot of NC boys here. If you feel like it, tell me where in NC you are.

Rah-leigh.

Response:

Seems like there are a lot of NC boys here. If you feel like it, tell me where in NC you are. Rah-leigh.

Thankee. — Charles Davis    K4SWB <I’m The NRA

Response:

Seems like there are a lot of NC boys here. If you feel like it, tell me where in NC you are. I’m in Reidsville. Just north of Greensboro. I’m gonna make me a list of who is here, and where each of you are, and thought I’d start out close to home. Thanks. — Charles Davis    K4SWB <I’m The NRA

Response:

I’m in Charlotte. Grew up in Asheville with time spent in Watauga County. You familiar with any Angels or Trents up that way? Matter of fact I’ll be up there on the 9th for a wedding. Drew Patterson – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Seems like there are a lot of NC boys here. If you feel like it, tell me where in NC you are. I’m in Reidsville. Just north of Greensboro. I’m gonna make me a list of who is here, and where each of you are, and thought I’d start out close to home. Thanks. — Charles Davis    K4SWB <I’m The NRA

Response:

Question:

Having just(moved here and) gotten into flyfishing, I was wondering if I could only buy 10 flies—which ones (size,color?)would YOU have to have to in your vest? Thanks, Amelia

Response:

Having just(moved here and) gotten into flyfishing, I was wondering if I could only buy 10 flies—which ones (size,color?)would YOU have to have to in your vest? Thanks, Amelia

I hardly ever use anything other than a parachute Adams, a Royal Wulff or a Yellow Humpy in sizes 14, 16 and 18. I’m a dry fly purist so I’ll defer to Wayno to give you the benefit of his experience with the nymphs of the Blue Ridge. — Ken Fortenberry- pun most definitely intended

Response:

Having just(moved here and) gotten into flyfishing, I was wondering if I could only buy 10 flies—which ones (size,color?)would YOU have to have to in your vest? Thanks, Amelia

I would buy 9  size 10 foam yellow humpies  and one size 24  gray midge.  As a beginner you will probably loose the humpies in the trees but at least you will be able to  see them when you hit the stream. I would get the midge to amaze my friends when they ask about flies and also to amaze yourself by realizing   that  advanced fishing is difficult. Guess I am at level two in fly fishing and hope this is the year I begin to catch a few fish. Indian Joe

Response:

Having just(moved here and) gotten into flyfishing, I was wondering if I could only buy 10 flies—which ones (size,color?)would YOU have to have to in your vest? Thanks, Amelia

    mr. fortenberry, in his characteristically humble and helpful fashion, has pointed you in the right direction with regard to dry flies, although i must say that after mid may, my preference for top water flies would be kaufmann’s "stimulators" in sizes 10 (hopper imitation), 14 and 16 (caddis/stonefly) and in yellow, lime, and royal colors.     i have never used a nymph in my life, so i can’t help you with such things. wayno (ok, ok, here’s the deal on the nymphs:  prince; red squirrel; size 10, 14.) and, for down home personal service, and even more expertise, contact walt winter at ezflyfish.com.  he is a fellow roffian, guide, and blower of smoke.

Response:

I’ve noticed that yellow seems to be favored in dry flies by fishermen in the Blue Ridge.  Yellow Humpies, yellow/orange stimulators, Harry Murray’s Mr. Rapidan (yellow wings and yellow mixed into the dubbing), Walt’s Yallahammer, etc.

        well, that’s certainly true for early may through early october.  but i have *always* done better from march through early may on adams or royal wulff patterns.  ernie shweibert (one of my dearest friend, have i ever told you the absolutely intriguing story of how we first met?) would call it a sulphur thang, i reckon. wayno

Response:

 ernie shweibert (one of my dearest friend, have i ever told you the absolutely intriguing story of how we first met?)

No, but if you don’t tell me every detail next time we meet, I’ll be angry.

Response:

Point 1: you have my sympathy. This hobby will soon turn into an obsession Point 2: You’ve received some great advice from some real experts. They know what they are talking about, hard as that may be to believe! (this is as of 7:30 p.m. CT on Monday; I dunno what else you might hear! Be careful.) Point 3: My advice (worth exactly what it costs): go to the local walmart store and buy some of their cheap flies; take them with your gear to the nearest stocked water, and practice, practice, practice. Then as you improve your presentation skills and develop the desire for more of a challenge, get some of the flies that’ve been previously recommended and search out some more challenging water. Ezflyfish.com seems to me like a great source. Point 4: find some great folks to fish with who will help get you out on those cold rainy days when, without encouragement, you’d end up couch-potatoing in front of the TV. Bob Patton

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Having just(moved here and) gotten into flyfishing, I was wondering if I could only buy 10 flies—which ones (size,color?)would YOU have to have to in your vest? Thanks, Amelia

Response:

[snip] and, for down home personal service, and even more expertise, contact walt winter at ezflyfish.com.  he is a fellow roffian, guide, and blower of smoke.

Just don’t accept any yellow humpies from him.  <BSEG they tend not to have points – ask Mr. Fortenberry I’ve only been able to fish NC once but did OK on Royal Wulffs, Royal Coachman, and Irrestistibles.  Of course, I also caught some on streamers. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Having just(moved here and) gotten into flyfishing, I was wondering if I could only buy 10 flies—which ones (size,color?)would YOU have to have to in your vest? Thanks, Amelia

Amelia, The aforementioned flies by the most distinguished roffians are excellent suggestions…. I’ll humbly add my .02 worth…. Adams Parachute size 12 Adams Parachute size 14 Adams Parachute size 16 Adams Parachute size 18 Yellow Humpy size 12 Yellow Humpy size 14 Yellow Humpy size 16 Orange Stimulator size 12 Orange Stimulator size 14 Orange Stimulator size 16 if one of peculiar tastes was to expand their horizons….. Orange Ausable Wulff (brookies love ‘em) March Browns…… especially in March! BWO’s yellowthangy parachute Tan or grey elk hair caddis Sulphurs…. all styles anything with yellow. anything with orange. small wet flies dropped behind a stimulator…… (i caught way too many fish yesterday using a yellahammer dropper) for bottom dwellers, the following nymphs are standard fare…. beadhead princes, hare’s ear, pheasant tails….. for big brown trout….. big olive wooly buggers. for selective trout….. size 20-24 cdc emergers or griffiths gnats. hope this helps…. Tight Lines, –Walt Fly Fishing NC & more… http://www.ezflyfish.com http://www.wilsoncreekoutfitters.com

Response:

Point 1: you have my sympathy. This hobby will soon turn into an obsession Point 2: You’ve received some great advice from some real experts.

Hey, I thought my advice was great too.

Response:

Having just(moved here and) gotten into flyfishing, I was wondering if I could only buy 10 flies—which ones (size,color?)would YOU have to have to in your vest?

I don’t think you need 10 patterns.  Pick the flies based on the water type. In western NC that means basically freestone mountain streams that are relatively infertile.  That means a lot of pocket water and opportunistic rather than selective trout .  So use something that stays afloat (if it’s a dry fly) and the fish can see in the broken water.  So use a #12 Parachute Adams or #14 Humpy and save the #18 No-hackle BWO and #22 Griffith’s Gnat for the tailwaters and spring creeks.  Go a little bigger and/or a little fuzzier and/or a little more flash.  A #14 beadhead Hare’s Ear nymph instead of a #18 Pheasant Tail.  Any searching pattern will catch fish, since there are no bigtime haches that the trout get real selective to in most waters (there might be exceptions, such as midges on the Davidson).  A Parachute Adams is more or less a mayfly imitation, but on infertile waters the fish take it as a gray Thingamajiggy that fell out of a tree for all I know. I’ve noticed that yellow seems to be favored in dry flies by fishermen in the Blue Ridge.  Yellow Humpies, yellow/orange stimulators, Harry Murray’s Mr. Rapidan (yellow wings and yellow mixed into the dubbing), Walt’s Yallahammer, etc.

Response:

Question:

I haven’t fished them yet; but I’m from Long Island originally, and when I visit the family this summer I will definitely fish one or both of these streams.  I’ve reached the point in my life when I realize that there are few trips that can’t be extended a day to fish a few hours. Growing up in Brentwood on Long Island, I was mentally a million miles away from fly fishing for trout.  It’s only from the vantage point of 900 miles away that I see the opportunities on Long Island. Keep your rod tip up. Memphis Jim

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If anyone fishes these streams please let me know. I’ve been fishing them on and off for years with mostly poor results. I do better on the Ausable. Meanwhile beginners seems to out catch me easily. Any tips/advice? or do you want to buy my rods?

Response:

If anyone fishes these streams please let me know. I’ve been fishing them on and off for years with mostly poor results. I do better on the Ausable. Meanwhile beginners seems to out catch me easily. Any tips/advice? or do you want to buy my rods?

Response:

Any tips/advice? or do you  want to buy my rods?

 If they are T&T, Winston or Cane….maybe. Wayne Always looking for fine rods-cheap.

Response:

I fished the Connetquot twice. I did not find it particularly satisfactory: inspite of the 3 to 4 fish per hour catch rate, the fish behave mostly like large stockers (heck, they are mostly large stockers), they thrash rather than fighting. Probably, fishing during this time of the year for sea-run ‘bows is more exciting than fishing in the summer. My advice: wholly buggers, large bead-head nymphs. The river is small, mostly very flat, with one or two deep holes per beat. That’s where the fish like to hang out, all of them, in quite large pods. Work those holes carefully, starting from the side closest to you, and from the downstream side of the hole. Inspite of the fact that these fish are stocked, they can be weary, since they see a lot of fishermen.  Using a stealthy approach helps too !. -Vittorio – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If anyone fishes these streams please let me know. I’ve been fishing them on and off for years with mostly poor results. I do better on the Ausable. Meanwhile beginners seems to out catch me easily. Any tips/advice? or do you want to buy my rods?

Response:

Question:

I’m heading to see my brother for a few days and will be in the Boulder area.  Can anyone recommend some areas/ types of flyfishing.  My preference is drys but just want to enjoy some great scenery.  Wild fish preferred! thanks much! Bruce

Response:

<snipped Bruce, I know Mike Medintz lives up in that area.  I went up there a month ago and fished the Big Thompson with moderate success.  I was using a black midge with a red bead head and got some good action.  We started fishing just below the dam at Estes(?) Park in the early morning, then drove down about 4 miles and fished a really good stretch with a lot of big boulders breaking up the water.  Nice area. bc. — Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy. -Benjamin Franklin

Response:

Question:

Why the bimini twist?

…cuz the foxtrot looks dorky? -wf

Response:

If you aren’t worried about records, forget the bimini and fish a good tapered leader.  The bimini is a way to fish for big fish, like tarpon with a light tippit. If you are willing to fish a little heavier leader forget the bimini.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve only fished in the salt a few times but finally broke down and bought Lefty Kreh’s book on the subject.  My question is what use is the Bimini Twist?  I understand that if you are trying for a world record then you need great 100 per cent strength knots to tie in your 1 foot of "tippet class". I’m not really interested in that and I suspect the vast majority of salt water fisherman arent either…why not just tie your bite tippet on  with a surgeons knot or something? Sorry for this off topic question……now back to the Gink Wars. jorge — Posted via Talkway – http://www.talkway.com Exchange ideas on practically anything ™.

Response:

Good choice in books … My S/W Flyfishing Bible, I call it. As I understand it ( and have somewhat tested) the Bimini is the strongest knot to use "if tied properly!  I personally am a strong proponent of the "spider hitch" It is easier, smaller, and faster to tie, and I now can tee it in a few seconds…even in the dark.   I almost always use it to loop on tippet to leader on all sizes I use (5x to 20#) even in freshwater.  It supposedly is just as strong as a bimini except for shock load.  Since most of the time the rod / line absorbs the shocks it works great for me.  I have even done some testing and it usually takes a better bimini than I can tie to exceed the breaking strength of one of my spiders.  I have also performed this test with a couple of professional S/W guides biminis (in up to 20# test) and usually their bimini fails first. (or of course the unknotted line in the middle. If you want to give it a try I think the knot is listed in Lefty’s book. Usually they show this knot being tied using a finger or thumb as the "guide" to wrap around. I have had better luck using a small object like a toothpick or hemostats.  After some practice it can easily be tied with no tools by looping the line "between" the thumb and forefinger with no tools. Like the bimini this knot’s real purpose it to double the line and use the loop lines to tie another knot to something… or to make a doubled loop.  I use a lot of loops and normally just make the spiders loop, combine the lines, and tie a surgeons loop close to the spider.  This can result in a small loop of double line. (or as large as you need)  For your shock leader or bite tippet this give you a doubled line of class tippet to tie the knot with. The knot tied with the doubled line is almost always stronger than the spider, bimini, or the single class tippet.  I find the issue of attaching wire, 40# or 100# mono to any doubled 12-16 lb connection more prone to failure and problems than the class termination knot. So far I Never lost a fish due to a spider breaking. (Although I have lost lots of fish due to the line breaking between the knots (where it’s supposed to) just poor dumb bad luck….  I have lost a number of fish due to bimini knot failure. If you go with the bimini in the 20# & under size I highly recommend using pliobond or something on the final hitches.  I have seen way too many bimini’s start coming apart while fishing if they are not glued.  I even saw this once on a friends backing to flyline connection where he had used a bimini.  The really sad part is that a number of us were taught to tie our best binini’s by Stu Apte … So I guess we can’t blame the teacher!  I recall reading somewhere that it only took a few years to "perfect" a bimini and ony a couple more to perfect it on a rocking boat out in the middle of the ocean.  Maybe they were right. The real test is to always break a lot of line and knots until you are confident they as strong as the line. (or at least as strong a YOU can tie them)  I make leaders from clear Ande and use Ande tournament class line. This stuff comes in 1/4 lb spools, so I have a lot to waste. I just tie up the knots on each end to end up about 3′ outside the loops and then use a couple of chunks of cut off broom handles to hold on to and break the knots. I stand on the stick with the loop over it on one end and pull with my hands at the other until it breaks.  Just make sure you have safety glasses  on and don’t touch the line itself.  16# and up is quite violent when it breaks and can give you a nasty cut if it gets near you hands. (ah the voice of experience)  This isn’t real scientific but really help you determine the best knots that you can tie. Good luck in the salt!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve only fished in the salt a few times but finally broke down and bought Lefty Kreh’s book on the subject.  My question is what use is the Bimini Twist?  I understand that if you are trying for a world record then you need great 100 per cent strength knots to tie in your 1 foot of "tippet class". I’m not really interested in that and I suspect the vast majority of salt water fisherman arent either…why not just tie your bite tippet on  with a surgeons knot or something? Sorry for this off topic question……now back to the Gink Wars. jorge — Posted via Talkway – http://www.talkway.com Exchange ideas on practically anything ™.

Response:

Thanks so much for the advice over the bimini twist. (George and RJ). I will indeed practice a bit with the spider hitch and see if I can master that. I was fishing in the backcountry on my last trip to Latin America for snook and baby tarpon…..the fish were completely non leader tippet shy so I thought well in order not to lose’em in the mangroves and make sure I can horse’em, I’ll tie like 20 pound test on for a tippet.  I was having a ball catching 10 pound baby tarpon and small snook (and replacing the tippet every 3 or 4 fish cause the tarpon were sawing it up pretty good). However I hooked a big snook….the boat driver said "Its a big snook, Jorge….don’t let him get in the mangrove"…..the rod was an 8 weight Scott…..it was bent double and then broke a foot above the handle.   What did I do wrong there?  Is an 8 weight too lite for the backcountry?  Should I only use 10 pound tippets and depend on breaking off rather than stressing the rod too much?   It was a big snook….the boat was being pulled sideways into the mangrove and I’ll did was just hold on (in panic!). I appreciate the help you guys are giving to this beginner in the salt. Jorge — Posted via Talkway – http://www.talkway.com Exchange ideas on practically anything ™.

Response:

Most likely you dinged the rod at some time and it was weak there.  If it is a top of the line rod you can probably get it replaced.  You can also have a problem if you grab the rod above the handle cause you can change where the rod is stressed.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks so much for the advice over the bimini twist. (George and RJ). I will indeed practice a bit with the spider hitch and see if I can master that. I was fishing in the backcountry on my last trip to Latin America for snook and baby tarpon…..the fish were completely non leader tippet shy so I thought well in order not to lose’em in the mangroves and make sure I can horse’em, I’ll tie like 20 pound test on for a tippet.  I was having a ball catching 10 pound baby tarpon and small snook (and replacing the tippet every 3 or 4 fish cause the tarpon were sawing it up pretty good). However I hooked a big snook….the boat driver said "Its a big snook, Jorge….don’t let him get in the mangrove"…..the rod was an 8 weight Scott…..it was bent double and then broke a foot above the handle. What did I do wrong there?  Is an 8 weight too lite for the backcountry?  Should I only use 10 pound tippets and depend on breaking off rather than stressing the rod too much?   It was a big snook….the boat was being pulled sideways into the mangrove and I’ll did was just hold on (in panic!). I appreciate the help you guys are giving to this beginner in the salt. Jorge — Posted via Talkway – http://www.talkway.com Exchange ideas on practically anything ™.

Response:

Sounds like you were using the same guide I used…. Except when he tried to tell my buddy repeatedly in excited broken  English (the fish) GO IN MANGROVE! GO IN MANGROVE!  My buddy stepped out of the boat and sank to his shoulders in the silt….. But that’s a whole different story. We were in Cancun earlier this year and used 8 & 9 wt rods on the baby (4′ ) tarpon we found there & didn’t have any rod strength problems. I was using Sage Rplx’s and my buddy was using the Orvis and Fenwick HMG’s…  The tarpon action was hot and we ended up using straight 40# leaders when the all the premade tippets ran out….and still managed to break off a fair number of fish! (the folks at Sage are probably cringing if they read this! Sorry to have to tell you but your story sounds like operator error.  Strong saltwater fish need to fought with the butt of the rod not the tip.  You are risking it if you bend the rod beyond 90

Question:

Hello, I am new to Georgia, northwest of Atlanta (between Marietta and Roswell to be exact). Can anyone tell me if there is a flyfishing club in this area? Also, I am also looking for information on float trips in Georgia, Tenn., Carolinas, or Kentucky. I am originally from the Green Country Fly Fishers Club in Bartlesville, OK. Dave Whitlock was on of the founding members there 25 years ago. Eric

Response:

Hello, I am new to Georgia, northwest of Atlanta (between Marietta and Roswell to be exact). Can anyone tell me if there is a flyfishing club in this area? Also, I am also looking for information on float trips in Georgia, Tenn., Carolinas, or Kentucky. I am originally from the Green Country Fly Fishers Club in Bartlesville, OK. Dave Whitlock was on of the founding members there 25 years ago. Eric

there.  You should give him a call Eric. George —

Question:

For nymphing I use an intermediate line.

Is that right?  On rivers as well as lakes?  Seems like line control would be a problem.  Isn’t it? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – -Burton — L. Burton Hawley         2330 NW Hummingbird Corvallis, OR

Response:

Just my .02 cents worth. A double taper will always roll cast better because of the line structure. On a double taper you are casting (roll) a taper section(larger) vs a wt fwd which will be into running line which is smaller. Tight Loops KenW   —

A double taper will only roll cast better if you roll cast longer than the line belly. Assuming that your rod and your leader are 9ft each, the front taper including the line belly is 36 ft you are talking about a 54ft roll cast! Most trout are caught within a shorter distance. In other words: no advantage for the DT line. The real advantage is that line handling (mending) longer lines is easier and that you can turn around a DT which makes it possible to use a DT line twice as long. The best roll-casting line I found so far is the Wulff Triangle Taper with it’s 36-40ft of tapered line belly (depending on the line weight). Thomas — Thomas Urbig

Response:

I got in on this discussion rather late, so pardon me if I missed something. A double taper will only roll cast better if you roll cast longer than the line belly. Assuming that your rod and your leader are 9ft each, the front taper including the line belly is 36 ft you are talking about a 54ft roll cast! Most trout are caught within a shorter distance. In other words: no advantage for the DT line. The real advantage is that line handling (mending) longer lines is easier and that you can turn around a DT which makes it possible to use a DT line twice as long. The best roll-casting line I found so far is the Wulff Triangle Taper with it’s 36-40ft of tapered line belly (depending on the line weight).

A double-taper is a real asset if you aerialize your roll cast and combine it with a single haul.  This will make a 54′ roll cast easy even on 5 wt. rods.  To do this, you want to make a _small_ backcast so that about 4-5′ of the tip of the line hit the water next to you.   You’ll have a big loop of the line also next to you.  As soon as the last 4-5′ of line hit the water, you start the forward cast and add a single-haul. I live in the Pacific Northwest and out here, spey casting has grown in popularity dramatically.  In the winter, we get a lot of rain and the rivers swell big time, and spey casting allows us to cast a large fly much further with less effort than any other technique.  I use a 14′ 9wt two-handed rod for steelhead and salmon, and with it, 70-100′ roll casts are a breeze.  For this type of work, a double-taper line is needed.  Scientific Anglers makes a Mastery Series Spey/Salmon line that is 120′ long with a 77′ belly.  It works well, but once you get a lot of line out there, it can be more difficult to work with than a double-taper line. (If you’re not familiar with spey casting, it is swinging the rod to reposition the line to make an aerialized roll cast.  It is often done with two-handed rods but can be done with single-handed rods as well.  One of the neatest things about spey casting is that you can make very long casts without a backcast.  This has great application to anglers who don’t have boats.) Spey casting is hard to describe with words, so if you’ve never seen it, borrow or rent a video on it.  Hugh Faulkus and Derek Brown each have excellent videos. Dan

Response:

I essentially use DT’s and shooting heads. In the past few years I have cut the DT’s in two parts, glued a braided loop connector to the butts, and used only one half with a running line. I like this approach for the following three reasons: 1) I can store the other half in large coils,     so when I “reverse” the line I have a nice,      new line, instead of the portion that was      wound up tightly on the reel 2) I can swap the half DT with the shooting head,         the running line is already on the spool 3) Most of my casting is within 1/2 line (I use    long leaders, a 90′ line/2+12′ leader is     roughly 60′ away.    If you need to cast longer than that, the running     line is much better than the second half of         the DT, since it glides much better through         the guides. -Vittorio

Response:

I have WF4F line on a fly reel I received for Christmas (it is well balanced for my Adams Traveler 4 weight rod). Among other things, for my birthday, I received an extra spool for the reel.  My fishing is primarily in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park which means I fish relatively narrow mountain streams with riffles, pocket water and deep swift pools. I like the WF4F but would like some advice on what type of line (DT, ST, F/S, etc.) would be a good choice for the second spool. Any advice?

Response:

I have WF4F line on a fly reel I received for Christmas (it is well balanced for my Adams Traveler 4 weight rod). Among other things, for my birthday, I received an extra spool for the reel.  My fishing is primarily in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park which means I fish relatively narrow mountain streams with riffles, pocket water and deep swift pools. I like the WF4F but would like some advice on what type of line (DT, ST, F/S, etc.) would be a good choice for the second spool. Any advice?

Another floating line, even a double taper, would not be of any great value. Some type of fast sinking, full length line or sinktip might be nice for the deep, faster runs. Orvis makes a very fast sinking #4 line with a  4′ mini-tip. It is a full length, 80′ or more, of floating line with a 4′ section of very fast sinking line on the end. Cortland makes a weight-forward #4 line in full sinking  in a type 3 rate of sink. Not lots of sinking lines are available for the smaller sizes. On some rods, you can overline one size, particularly with sinking lines and get a few more choices. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Response:

A double-taper is a real asset if you aerialize your roll cast and combine it with a single haul.  This will make a 54′ roll cast easy even on 5 wt. rods.  To do this, you want to make a _small_ backcast so that about 4-5′ of the tip of the line hit the water next to you.   You’ll have a big loop of the line also next to you.  As soon as the last 4-5′ of line hit the water, you start the forward cast and add a single-haul.

What you describe is an improved roll cast for the one handed rod. This is not only a valuable technique for a 5wt, it even does the job with a 3wt (or even 1wt!). But you can make the job much easier with a WF-line. I use e.g. a 3/4 Wulff Triangle Taper for most of my fishing and with the improved roll cast or spey cast (different techniques, I know!) and a single haul I can almost cast a whole line. That is because you shoot most of the line out which is a domain of the WF line. The disadvantage is that I have to strip in my line to about the back taper of the line belly to make a good cast with the WF which is of course not necessary with the DT line. Should I mention that the Wulff Triangle Taper is really becoming my favourite?! Thomas <valuable stuff about spey casting deleted Dan

– Thomas Urbig

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I have fished the Smokies  and think that a DT 4 line will roll cast much better than the WF 4 in the small confided streams of the area. Snip if you regularly fish the bigger rivers of the area then get one of the mini-sink tips. Thinking of getting one of these myself for my big river trips. Good Luck!

I agree with you completely about the DT.  It never fails to make me laugh when people say they won’t use a DT ’cause you can’t shoot them, and then when you see them cast they false cast all but about 5 feet of their line.  Ooooh, you sure made full use of that WF!  On the minitip though I’m torn.  I have one and it performs and casts very well, but It really lets me down when it comes to fishing a sculpin type fly along the bottom.  I get better depth and longer drifts with my 13 foot type IV 5 weight than with my 6 weight minitip.  For what it does do well though, the minitip is a high quality, VERY long lasting line.  It just isn’t the only sinking tip line you’ll ever need. Phil

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Should I mention that the Wulff Triangle Taper is really becoming my favourite?!

It always has been mine for dry fly fishing.  For nymphing I use an intermediate line. -Burton — L. Burton Hawley         2330 NW Hummingbird Corvallis, OR

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Just my .02 cents worth. A double taper will always roll cast better because of the line structure. On a double taper you are casting (roll) a taper section(larger) vs a wt fwd which will be into running line which is smaller. Tight Loops KenW   —

Response:

For nymphing I use an intermediate line. Is that right?  On rivers as well as lakes?  Seems like line control would be a problem.  Isn’t it?

Yep, I like to get deep fast and have a straight connection to the nymph.   Although my former fishing partner also used intermediates and he like to use a bow in the line as a strike detector.  Personal preference I guess.  What line control problems are you thinking about.  It worked well for us, we caught thousands of fish.  (That was before I stopped and decided to rethink my attitude and purpose re: fishing) -Burton — L. Burton Hawley       2330 NW Hummingbird Corvallis, OR

Response:

        Greg Metzler . I like the WF4F but would like some advice on what type of line (DT, ST, F/S, etc.) would be a good choice for the second spool. Any advice?

I agree with Bill, go with a sink tip.  Orvis, Cortland or Teeny jg

Response:

I have fished the Smokies  and think that a DT 4 line will roll cast much better than the WF 4 in the small confided streams of the area. This is a definite asset on all but the largest rivers. However, if you regularly fish the bigger rivers of the area then get one of the mini-sink tips. Thinking of getting one of these myself for my big river trips. Good Luck!

Response:

Question:

I have a 14ft 9/10 wt. Spey rod and I’m looking for information as to the availability of a good sink tip Spey line. Hopefully someone can point me to the right source. Thanks, MJR

Response:

I have a 14ft 9/10 wt. Spey rod and I’m looking for information as to the availability of a good sink tip Spey line. Hopefully someone can point me to the right source. Thanks, MJR

The RIO Windcutter is expensive but comes with interchangeable floating and two weights of sinking tips that match to the taper for decent spey casting. It is a shorter belly than his other line, the Accelerator.  I am not sure if the Accelerator has the removeable tips but that is a longer belly line specifically for spey casting, but not appropriate for shooting or overhand.  I think the belly on the windcutter is about 45 or 50 feet so you end up shooting your spey cast and retrieving a bit back near the belly before casting. Thw windcutter also has a removeable floating mid section and I have found that by removing this and the tip I am able to add about 25′ of leadcore, just for overhand not spey casting, but it throws it pretty good and this really gets deep. Your tackle dealer may be able to tell you more, or look RIO up – I think they are in Blackfoot, Idaho or Montana, one of the two. You could also make your own in the time-honored tradition. Cut up an 8 wt. shooting head into 5, 10, and fifteen foot pieces and put stiff mono loops on the ends, and cut off the front taper of a DT-10 line and put another loop there and this should turn over fairly decently. You need to use very heavy mono like Maxima 80 lb. or so, or strip off the plastic and make a loop with the braided core and coat with pliobond.  Going a couple of sizes lighter in the sink tips allows it to kick over easier and will work much better than trying it with 9 or 10 wt. shooting head pieces. This info is from Trey Combs big Steelhead book. Happy Steelheading, mark Vinsel — http://www.lanminds.com/local/vinnie/gallery.html

Response:

I have a 14ft 9/10 wt. Spey rod and I’m looking for information as to the availability of a good sink tip Spey line. Hopefully someone can point me to the right source. Thanks, MJR

You don’t say if you want a line for overhead, switch or speycasting… Anyway, check out http://www.teleport.com/~flyfish/speyline.html (A nice page with comprehensive info) Good luck and… /Tord Andreasson, Sweden

[ speyline.html 13K ]

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This document was last edited: January 25, 1996SteelheadquartersQuest for the Perfect Spey Lineby Mark Bachmann, for The Fly Fishing Shop, Welches, Oregon, USA

The first thing that you will notice when listening to a gathering of two hand fly rod advocates is there are a lot of different ideas about which is the best fly line configuration. At present there are at least(8) different full floating spey line taper configurations manufaured in the USA.

At present three configurations for sinking tip lines are commonly used. We will try to make some sense of these differing approaches to fly line taper design, knowing and welcoming in advance that there will be some disagreement on some points. We will pass on the more interesting e-mail discussions and ask only that these discussions be limited to subjects thoroughly tested for several long days on-stream.

The perfect spey line would fish long, fish close, fish calm, fish wind and throw large and small flies. For the purpose of these discussions the words spey and two-hand will be used interchangeably. The lines listed in the following text are specially designed for spey or change-of-direction-roll-casting. They may not be appropriate for over head casting.Double Taper Floating Spey Lines. Double taper is the traditional fly line design for two hand fly rods. There are some obvious reasons why. A double taper is the easiest to mend at long distance. A double taper turns over smoothly. Since the belly of the line is a constant diameter there is little need to strip, coil or shoot line. Theoretically turn around time is quicker and the angler is more efficient. Besides when spey casts were first developed, the equipment of the time was more difficult to shoot line with. However double tapers often need long back loops to load the rod for long casts. These loops can get blown by the wind or get tangled in the stream side brush.Cortland or S.A. Traditional 90′ Double TaperThe traditional 90′ double taper fly line has about 76′ of belly with about 7′ of taper on each end. Taper design is dependent on the size of the line and the maufacurer who made it. I’ve met a number of anglers packing around the 120′ spey double tapers that couldn’t cast the first 90′. It takes a fair amount of practice to cast consistently 90′ and stay under control. The extra thirty feet of bulk of the 120′ spey line needs a heavier and often more expensive reel to hold it. Use the 90′ lin if it fits your conditions.Cortland or S.A., Specially designed 120′ Double Taper Spey LinesThese lines are designed for really good fly casters who fish big rivers with rods that are longer than those commonly used for steelhead fishing. However if you’re fishing a very large river and have the skill, it’s hard to cast 120′ with a 90′ fly line.Custom made, Double taper, tickler-tip spey lines. This type of double taper fly line has had part of the tip taper removed from one end andis joined to 15′ to 20′ of a smaller diameter double taper fly line. The tip is often joined to the main line with a loop to loop system. The floating tip can be removed and a sinking one added. This makes it the most adaptable spey line out there. The problem is for me that it doesn’t do anything very well. (I know I’ll get the E-mails for this one.) I have fished with anglers who can cast very well with this system however.Cortland, Step taper Double Taper Spey Line This fly line has a short belly with very long front taper on each end which descends in steps. The taper is desinged to magnify the energy flowing down the line and increase line speed at long distance. The double taper design makes long distance mending comfortable. I used one of these lines on the Deschutes River last fall for about two weeks and caught several steelhead with it. It preformed well enough during calm days but gave me fits in the wind. The test line may have been a little heavy for the rod I was using it on. I think that next fall I will try the same rod with the next size smaller line and see what happens. (I’ll keep you posted.)Weight Forward Floating Spey Lines, Royal Wulff Triangle Taper Spey LinesThis line has a continuous taper for 65′ to 80′. It has a short rear taper and then enough running line to reach a full 120′ length. The rear of the tapered head is larger than a double taper of the same weight designation. The design theory is that as the loop unrolls, a larger diameter line is forcing energy into a smaller diameter line. This helps maintan line speed. The triangle taper fly line was invented by Lee Wulff. I will make no unbiased bones about it , this is my favorite full floating fly line. If the design was good enough its good enough for me. Besides, I met Joan Wullf for the first time last fall. She sure seemed like a nice lady. I’d just as soon put the money in her pocket. This line casts long, is controllable long, casts well enough in the wind and lays the fly down delicately. Keep yours real clean with the new Scientific Anglers Fly Line Dressing.Cortland Step Taper Weight Forward Spey LinesStep tapers have a short level belly and a long front taper which is graduated in steps. It is desingned to condence energy much like the triangle taper. I’ve spent a limited amount of time on the water with this line. My partner, Mark Sensland used a weight foreward step taper line extensively on the Deschutes last fall and came back singing its praises. If you’ve seen him cover the water, it doesn’t take long to realize that he’s a man of vast steelhead experience.Rio Wind Cutter Spey Lines These 120′ lines are specifically designed for windy conditions. They have comparatively short heavy heads that are designed to turn around quickly with a shallow back loop and load the rod deeply for maximum line speed. The running line is small diameter for minimum wind resistance. I fished a couple of evenings on the Deschutes when the wind was blowing so hard that it would have been impossible for me to cast with any other line. One evening I hooked three steelhead and landed two. Beats sitting around camp. I recommend that you have one of these lines in your arsonal for those really bad days. Rio fly lines are designed by Jim Vincent of Blackfoot, Idaho. Jim is aknowlged as one of the better spey casters in the U.S. and has produced a very good video on the subject. We of course have them…$29.95. Rio Accelerator Spey Lines These lines are designed to give and extra kick at the end of the tip turn-over. They are a long belly weight forward configuration which tapers down and then once again enlarges to create extra mass near the tip.Sinking Tip Spey LinesThere are many conditions when steelhead will take a fly but they won’t rise to the surface for it. A sinking tip fly line takes the fly down to the fish’s level. The only problem is that there are many different depths and current speeds that will hold steelhead. Several sink rates are neccasary to cover all the conditions you may encounter. Carrying and changing extra fly lines can be cumbersome and time consuming. A floating line with changable sinking tips is more streamlined than carrying extra spools with different lines. It is a system that is readily adapted to the spey rod. The extra length of the spey rod gives the advantage that this loop system doesn’t have to enter the guides when stripping or casting. Since the line isn’t aerolized during the back cast any hinging effect caused by the loop conection isn’t a factor. Lines that are designed with a front taper to blend the energy flow for a specific weight of sinking tip, do turn over more controlably than a level drop conection. Staying in your casting rythem is easier if all of your sinking tips are the same weight and length and the density is varied for different sink rates.Custom, Double Taper Sinking Tip Spey LinesThis system is simply a double taper floating fly line with all or part of the tip taper chopped off and a loop installed for adding sinkingtips. Like its full floating counterpart, it doesn’t have to be stripped back to be recast. It can be mended to very long distances. It does have some design disadvantages however. If the line has enough mass to turn over a tip that is heavy enough to have an effective sink rate, the line becomes heavy enough to bog the rod down at longer casting ranges. Pulling a sunk tip to the top of the water so it can be recast, is fatiuging and more difficult to time at longer distances. Often the line must be stripped back so that the tip can be pulled to the top of the water. Because of the larger diameter of the line remaining in the guides, double taper lines don’t shoot as … read more »

Response:

Question:

The last time I used a dropper fly I had horrible problems with the line tangling up. I had attached the fly to the tag end of a surgeons knot Has anyone got any suggestions for keeping the whole thing untangled when fishing? I guess you could attach the dropper onto the first fly, but I often wonder about hooking success? Any thots would be appreciated. Jeff Dueck Calgary Alberta Canada

Response:

The last time I used a dropper fly I had horrible problems with the line tangling up. I had attached the fly to the tag end of a surgeons knot Has anyone got any suggestions for keeping the whole thing untangled when fishing? I guess you could attach the dropper onto the first fly, but I often wonder about hooking success? Any thots would be appreciated.

I use a two-fly rig often.  I tie the upper fly onto the end of the taper then with this attached I tie my tippet in with a barrel knot, leaving the fly hanging about 2" from the knot.  As long as the lower fly is heavier and the upper isn’t hanging down too far I don’t have problems. When I tangle it is the fault of my casting.  When I overpower the rod it forms a "tailing loop" where the flies tangle in the line.  With a two fly rig it works best to cast a gentle slow cast with a nice wide loop. If it’s windy forget the upper fly. Mark Vinsel Visit my gallery: http://www.lanminds.com/local/vinnie/gallery.HTML

Response:

The last time I used a dropper fly I had horrible problems with the line tangling up. I had attached the fly to the tag end of a surgeons knot Has anyone got any suggestions for keeping the whole thing untangled when fishing? I guess you could attach the dropper onto the first fly, but I often wonder about hooking success? Any thots would be appreciated. Jeff Dueck Calgary Alberta Canada

I have good luck by tying a loop knot into my tippet and then tying a pefection loop into my dropper leader, and looping them together.  Keep the dropper leader short, less than 6 inches, and the stiffness of the loop junction will keep you good. ATB

Response:

The last time I used a dropper fly I had horrible problems with the line tangling up. I had attached the fly to the tag end of a surgeons knot Has anyone got any suggestions for keeping the whole thing untangled when fishing?

I tie the tippet for the dropper to the curve in the hook of the first fly (usually a dry, with the dropper a nymph) using an improved clinch knot. I’ve never lost a dropper even tho’ my hooks are debarbed, and I don’t think that the dropper has interfered with hookups on the upper fly. The big advantage is that this rig casts much like a single fly and avoids the twists and snarls that I formerly encountered tying the dropper off from the leader above the other fly.

Response:

The last time I used a dropper fly I had horrible problems with the line tangling up. I had attached the fly to the tag end of a surgeons knot Has anyone got any suggestions for keeping the whole thing untangled when fishing?

Tom Johnson at Johnson’s Pere Marquette Lodge taught me to tie a second peice of tippet to the eye of the first fly, and attach the second fly to the second tippet.  So far it has worked great for me. . Lenny Bloksberg . .

Response:

The last time I used a dropper fly I had horrible problems with the line tangling up. I had attached the fly to the tag end of a surgeons knot Has anyone got any suggestions for keeping the whole thing untangled when fishing?

        Another method of avoiding tangles is to run your tippet through the eye of the dropper fly, tie on another length of tippet with a double surgeon’s knot and then tie on your tail fly. The dropper fly runs free but snugs up against the surgeon’s knot during casting. The only problem is that the dropper fly can’t be larger than a #14 or it slides over the knot but I rarely use flies that large so it’s no problem.

Response:

: The last time I used a dropper fly I had horrible problems with the line : tangling up. I had attached the fly to the tag end of a surgeons knot : Has anyone got any suggestions for keeping the whole thing untangled : when fishing? : :       Another method of avoiding tangles is to run your tippet through : the eye of the dropper fly, tie on another length of tippet with a double : surgeon’s knot and then tie on your tail fly. The dropper fly runs free : but snugs up against the surgeon’s knot during casting. The only problem : is that the dropper fly can’t be larger than a #14 or it slides over the : knot but I rarely use flies that large so it’s no problem. For a classical dropper, make sure that you are using a reasonably stiff piece of mono to make the leader.  I find that if the mono can support the weight of the fly horizontally over the 5-10 cm length of the dropper, then it is stiff enough not to tangle when casting.  However, I too prefer the methods previously mentioned.

Response:

Tom Johnson at Johnson’s Pere Marquette Lodge taught me to tie a second peice of tippet to the eye of the first fly, and attach the second fly to the second tippet.  So far it has worked great for me.

This works only if the eye is complete – and many hooks have either a small gap in the eye, or where the wire was cut may have sharp corners exposed to the inside of the eye. Neither of these may affect the mainline, but a trailing dropper might decide to go it alone with some vigorous casting… <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.    Alpha Server Engineering  < <           "Read this and nobody gets hurt"           < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Response:

The real key is learning to cast.  Don’t bother with any kind of dropper set up if you can’t exercise a modicum of loop control in all wind/weather conditions.                                 Mike in PDX                "When the trout are lost, smash the state."                                            Tom McGuane

Response:

You can attach an additional wet fly to your leader by leaving the heavier tag end of the barrel knot closest to your tippet a little long.   If the barrel knot is tied properly, the heavier tage end should stick out at 180 degrees from the tippet tag end.  Trim off the tag end of the tippet and just tie the additional fly to the remaining line.  The dropper line should be short (I usually use 6-8 inches) and no finer than 3X, or else it will tangle.  You can use this to attach as many flies as you want further up the leader too. Jim Davis Philadelphia, PA Temple University

Response:

Question:

: Heard this Napa valley winery is holding a fly fishing school each month : sponsored by some big name equipment manufactuere?  Anybody know anything : about this – good or bad or worthwhile for some from Seattle to fly down : and attend?  I know that they make good wine! — Glen Bolen Assistant Regional Planner The views expressed are my own and do not reflect the opinions of my employer, METRO.

Response:

Read a blurb in USAir Magazine (March ‘95) that Orvis was sponsoring those schools, which are held on the Russian River. Haven’t heard anything about them, but if you’ve got that kind of money to spend, and fly-fishing is your main objective, I think you could get more bang for your buck with private lessons. If you want to drink wine and schmooze with the well-funded dilettantes, the telephone number is 415-392-1600.

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