Question:

    i think the problem lies with bad leader material.  leaders "age", and become absurdly brittle and weak, even in packaging.  the damn stuff has probably been on the shelf at wallyworld for five or six years.  go to a decent specialty shop and get new leader material.     otherwise, i think it’s your knots.  i have desperately tried to snap flies off on the back cast, and i just can’t do it.  hell, maybe you just have a special talent…

Excuse me, may I help you?  Oh, I see.  Well, you turned left into "Leader Minutia" by mistake.  Go back down the hallway you came up, make a left by the drinking fountain, head for the sign that says "Actually Fishing Outdoors", and then past the restrooms, and right into "Turning A Nice Phrase".  Don’t mention it, have a nice day.

Response:

 Check your leader often, especially if you see a messy cast.

hmmm….this will be bad news for anyone fishing with me… you boys’ll be doin a whole lot of leader checks… jeff (purely messy)

Response:

…from my experience, cloning ain’t required…damned things are everywhere already…and around water? well, you probably haven’t seen the movie and don’t know the reproductive methods of gremlins, but…let’s just say it doesn’t look good for fisherpeople… jeff (creator of "the gremlin defense" – royalties required, unauthorized use or duplication will be punishable by law, bycracky) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – … gremlins…….caught a glimpse of one once…looked sorta like a tiny waldo-wolfgang thing….. Nasty little buggers from all I’ve heard. Wolfgang and the BAD news is we got the technology to clone!      

Response:

It might be that the back cast is low enough to actually hit the water or the ground, then there’s no need for special talents to break off the fly. Most of the guys that I’ve helped with their casting technique had one common problem, their back cast was way too low. But for this problem to appear again and again, I would also guess that the leader is the problem. /Roger

I agree with both points. I have occasionally broken the hook off the fly by letting it hit the rocks behind me. What really makes that a great trick is to continue fishing with the hookless fly. Makes it a bit more of a sporting challenge! Bob — http://rwpatton.home.netcom.com/

Response:

By the way, I live in McKinney about 30 miles or so north of Dallas. Thanks again, Nick Wright

Dale gave you an excellent tip re: the FWFF event in September, and what sounded suspiciously like an invite to Backwoods for the Roadkill Roundup.  You could gain quite a bit by attending either, and moreso by attending both.  If you’d like, drop me an email, and I’ll try to provide as much "local" info as I can. TC, R

Response:

Check your leader often, especially if you see a messy cast. Remove the overhand knots before they tighten.  Don’t delay cutting knots out of the leader and rebuilding it.

Great advice! I saved a lot of time and frustration once I started noticing my messy casts right away and dealing with it before it became an unmanageable mess.  You can untangle things (usually) fairly easily if you stop casting right away. A guide told me the minute rule (ok, maybe 30 seconds)…if you can’t fix it in under (a minute), then cut and redo… you’ll save time, be happier and get your fly on the water… which is the only way you can catch fish. — Rob (of course, fixing messy casting is another problem alltogether…)

Response:

Nick,     Ssounds to me like the whole outfit has been sitting around for a long time…I don’t know why floating line would sink rapidly unless it was old…..Also, there are several sites you can visit to learn to tie different types of knots, buy books, post messages, buy equipment, etc. http://www.flyanglersonline.com/   they have a beginners’ section http://www.thejump.net/fishing/fishing.html  fishin’ knots & other things And here are some links that may be helpful: http://flyfishing.miningco.com/ http://www.njflyfishing.com/ http://www.roundrocks.com/rocks/html/misc.html I’m sure all the others here can also help you a lot…keep at it, ask a lot of questions & PRACTICE!!! Graden

Response:

… gremlins…….caught a glimpse of one once…looked sorta like a tiny waldo-wolfgang thing…..

Nasty little buggers from all I’ve heard. Wolfgang and the BAD news is we got the technology to clone!      

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Could it be that you’re snapping the fly off on the backcast? If you put too much energy into it you can crack the line like a whip, and the fly goes hell knows where. Bob Just what I was thinking.  Put a little mark with a marker on the knot and tippet just above the fly to determine if this is happening if you can’t easily tell.  Does it appear, by looking at the tippet end, if the knot is untying, or is the end, once the fly is gone, a "clean" end? Where in N. Texas are you located?  If you’re near the DFW area, there are a number of instructors (Main Street Outfitters, in FW, for one), and a couple of FFing clubs that might provide some help.  IMO, instruction, particularly professional instruction, will provide dividends beyond the cost incurred (see a recent related thread on this very topic).  If you are comfortable with doing so, reply with a general location – there are several regulars in the general Fort Worth-Dallas <G area. TC, R

Thanks for all the advice. Thinking back on it, this may very well be what I was doing. I had not thought about it before. But that would explain why the leader looked as though it had been cut rather than the knot simply coming undone. I’m going to get all new line for my rod. The "floating fly line" that came with it sinks very rapidly, and it did not come with backing. So I’ll buy some new lines and leaders (hopefully this will help a little) and I’ll continue practicing my casting. Another question semi-related. I’m going to buy the leaders that come tapered instead of tying my own, in this case how necessary is it to have a tippet? By the way, I live in McKinney about 30 miles or so north of Dallas. Thanks again, Nick Wright

Response:

Another question semi-related. I’m going to buy the leaders that come tapered instead of tying my own, in this case how necessary is it to have a tippet?

Knotless tapered leaders are good, but you will definitely need to get some tippet.  Every time you tie on a fly you’re going to lose some material and by tying on some tippet you can delay replacing the leader.  I remember when I was starting out – I ended up changing leaders quite often until I solved my tailing loops (if you see lots of overhand knots all through your leader you are throwing a tailing loop) in which case adding tippet is not as big an issue<g.  Check your leader often, especially if you see a messy cast. Remove the overhand knots before they tighten.  Don’t delay cutting knots out of the leader and rebuilding it. What length and weight leader/tippet to use is an important question.  For most of the fishing I do (panfish, small bass, small trout) I get by with a 7 foot 4x tapered leader with 4x and/or 5x tippet added on.  I carry spools or 4x through 7x tippet for modifying the end of the leader as needed. –Stan

Response:

As a newbie of one year My most difficult time learning  was trying to forget I didn’t have a spinning rod with weights Easy does it grasshopper. Let the rod and line do the work — Fly Fisherman With a Furless Naked Cat named Dub.

Response:

that come tapered instead of tying my own, in this case how necessary is it to have a tippet? By the way, I live in McKinney about 30 miles or so north of Dallas.

I live in Plano. You need to buy a spool of tippet material. When fishing for bluegill around here I simply buy a 7.5 foot tapered 3x leader and immediately tie on a couple of feet of 4x tippet material. The waters we fish have so much stuff growing in the water that you gather a bowl of salad on each knott on a regular basis. By the time you leave a couple of flies in trees and snap a couple of flies off on the casts and change flies a couple of times you will need to replace the tippet with another couple of feet of tippet. It is no problem as a roll of tippet material lasts for a couple of years anyway and it is a good idea to replace it every couple of years anyway. BTW the Roadkill Roundtable meets each Saturday morning to tie flies and tell lies at Backwoods in the southeast corner of Campbell and Coit in Richardson. Come join us for a bs session anytime you want.We are a kind of a splinter group of The Dallas Flyfisher Club and the guys that work at the shop are always available to answer any questions. Ron manages the shop and Marshal works there and they are very knowledgable. Big Dale

Response:

nick – you’ve gotten plenty of good opinions, but you’ll soon discover the truth… gremlins.  damn things been plaguing all aspects of my flyfishing.  caught a glimpse of one once…looked sorta like a tiny waldo-wolfgang thing. they can tie knots in the tippet, snag flies in trees, pull rod tips into closing doors or ceiling fans, push you down into the water in front of your fishing companions just as you’re stepping into a stream…oh the horrors you’re in for now!!  you’ll love every moment – well, most of em. (my opinion… big fly, light or bad tippet, too powerful snapping and too soon on the forward casting stroke.) jeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello, my name is Nick I live in North Texas. My wife recently bought me the little $20 kit from WalMart since I’ve been wanting to try flyfishing. I’ve just about got the knack of fly casting (at least short distances), by practicing in my yard with a small piece of cloth tied on. My question is this, I took it out to the water tonight to give it a "real world" go and I ran into a problem. The flies would not stay tied to the leader. I tried the improved clinch and also the double clinch and without fail after about 5-6 casts the fly would be gone. I know that I’m tying these knots correctly. So I’m wondering where the problem can be? The little piece of cloth I’ve used for practice never once came off. Is it possible that the leader that came with the kit is either just really bad or possibly really old? Will getting a new leader solve my problem? Or are clinch knots not the proper way to tie on? Thanks for any advice. Nick Wright

Response:

Hello, my name is Nick I live in North Texas. My wife recently bought me the little $20 kit from WalMart since I’ve been wanting to try flyfishing. I’ve just about got the knack of fly casting (at least short distances), by practicing in my yard with a small piece of cloth tied on. My question is this, I took it out to the water tonight to give it a "real world" go and I ran into a problem. The flies would not stay tied to the leader. I tried the improved clinch and also the double clinch and without fail after about 5-6 casts the fly would be gone. I know that I’m tying these knots correctly. So I’m wondering where the problem can be? The little piece of cloth I’ve used for practice never once came off. Is it possible that the leader that came with the kit is either just really bad or possibly really old? Will getting a new leader solve my problem? Or are clinch knots not the proper way to tie on? Thanks for any advice. Nick Wright

Response:

Could it be that you’re snapping the fly off on the backcast? If you put too much energy into it you can crack the line like a whip, and the fly goes hell knows where. Bob — http://rwpatton.home.netcom.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello, my name is Nick I live in North Texas. My wife recently bought me the little $20 kit from WalMart since I’ve been wanting to try flyfishing. I’ve just about got the knack of fly casting (at least short distances), by practicing in my yard with a small piece of cloth tied on. My question is this, I took it out to the water tonight to give it a "real world" go and I ran into a problem. The flies would not stay tied to the leader. I tried the improved clinch and also the double clinch and without fail after about 5-6 casts the fly would be gone. I know that I’m tying these knots correctly. So I’m wondering where the problem can be? The little piece of cloth I’ve used for practice never once came off. Is it possible that the leader that came with the kit is either just really bad or possibly really old? Will getting a new leader solve my problem? Or are clinch knots not the proper way to tie on? Thanks for any advice. Nick Wright

Response:

Could it be that you’re snapping the fly off on the backcast? If you put too much energy into it you can crack the line like a whip, and the fly goes hell knows where. Bob

Just what I was thinking.  Put a little mark with a marker on the knot and tippet just above the fly to determine if this is happening if you can’t easily tell.  Does it appear, by looking at the tippet end, if the knot is untying, or is the end, once the fly is gone, a "clean" end? Where in N. Texas are you located?  If you’re near the DFW area, there are a number of instructors (Main Street Outfitters, in FW, for one), and a couple of FFing clubs that might provide some help.  IMO, instruction, particularly professional instruction, will provide dividends beyond the cost incurred (see a recent related thread on this very topic).  If you are comfortable with doing so, reply with a general location – there are several regulars in the general Fort Worth-Dallas <G area. TC, R

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello, my name is Nick I live in North Texas. My wife recently bought me the little $20 kit from WalMart since I’ve been wanting to try flyfishing. I’ve just about got the knack of fly casting (at least short distances), by practicing in my yard with a small piece of cloth tied on. My question is this, I took it out to the water tonight to give it a "real world" go and I ran into a problem. The flies would not stay tied to the leader. I tried the improved clinch and also the double clinch and without fail after about 5-6 casts the fly would be gone. I know that I’m tying these knots correctly. So I’m wondering where the problem can be? The little piece of cloth I’ve used for practice never once came off. Is it possible that the leader that came with the kit is either just really bad or possibly really old? Will getting a new leader solve my problem? Or are clinch knots not the proper way to tie on? Thanks for any advice. Nick Wright

Most likely you are snapping them off.  Untutored beginners frequently show a natural tendency to crack a fly line like a whip.  The correction is a matter of timing.  You are probably starting the forward cast too early and overpowering it, causing the fly to accelerate to supersonic speed in a small fraction of a second….more stress than the tippet can handle.  It didn’t happen with the piece of cloth because it’s greater air resistance simply wouldn’t allow that kind of acceleration.  Watch you back cast.  Don’t start the forward motion until the line extends completely to the rear. If possible, get an experienced caster to coach you.  If not, take lessons or rent videos and practice, practice, practice. Wolfgang

Response:

"Wolfgang Siebeneich" Most likely you are snapping them off.  Untutored beginners frequently show a natural tendency to crack a fly line like a whip.  The correction is a matter of timing.  You are probably starting the forward cast too early and overpowering it, causing the fly to accelerate to supersonic speed in a small fraction of a second….more stress than the tippet can handle.  It didn’t happen with the piece of cloth because it’s greater air resistance simply wouldn’t allow that kind of acceleration.  Watch you back cast.  Don’t start the forward motion until the line extends completely to the rear. If possible, get an experienced caster to coach you.  If not, take lessons or rent videos and practice, practice, practice.

I had virtually the same thing written out to send and then thought I’d check and see if it was already in the thread. What he said! Clark

Response:

Could it be that you’re snapping the fly off on the backcast? If you put too much energy into it you can crack the line like a whip, and the fly goes hell knows where. Bob

Good advice. Is it possible that the leader that came with the kit is either just really bad or possibly really old? Will getting a new leader solve my problem? Or are clinch knots not the proper way to tie on? Thanks for any advice.

The leader could weak. If in doubt, you don’t have to buy a new leader. Buy a spool of 5x tippet and learn to tie about a 18" to 24" piece onto the leader with a double surgeon’s knot. You should be doing that anyway. Cut the leader back to a thicker diameter first. It wouldn’t hurt to replace the whole leader, though. Did you say you paid $20 for this outfit? A decent store-bought leader will cost a quarter of that, but you can tie up your own, after spending more than $20 on materials. Then you can look into buying fly-tying materials, and then you can build your own rods. Eventually, you might build a drift boat and even knit your own waders. The possibilities are endless.

Response:

Hello, my name is Nick I live in North Texas. My wife recently bought me the little $20 kit from WalMart

    i think the problem lies with bad leader material.  leaders "age", and become absurdly brittle and weak, even in packaging.  the damn stuff has probably been on the shelf at wallyworld for five or six years.  go to a decent specialty shop and get new leader material.     otherwise, i think it’s your knots.  i have desperately tried to snap flies off on the back cast, and i just can’t do it.  hell, maybe you just have a special talent… wayno

Response:

I’ve seen a lot of people do it Wayne. But I agree, the leader is probably shot which exasperates the problem. Clark

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello, my name is Nick I live in North Texas. My wife recently bought me the little $20 kit from WalMart     i think the problem lies with bad leader material.  leaders "age", and become absurdly brittle and weak, even in packaging.  the damn stuff has probably been on the shelf at wallyworld for five or six years.  go to a decent specialty shop and get new leader material.     otherwise, i think it’s your knots.  i have desperately tried to snap flies off on the back cast, and i just can’t do it.  hell, maybe you just have a special talent… wayno

Response:

It might be that the back cast is low enough to actually hit the water or the ground, then there’s no need for special talents to break off the fly. Most of the guys that I’ve helped with their casting technique had one common problem, their back cast was way too low. But for this problem to appear again and again, I would also guess that the leader is the problem. /Roger

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello, my name is Nick I live in North Texas. My wife recently bought me the little $20 kit from WalMart     i think the problem lies with bad leader material.  leaders "age", and become absurdly brittle and weak, even in packaging.  the damn stuff has probably been on the shelf at wallyworld for five or six years.  go to a decent specialty shop and get new leader material.     otherwise, i think it’s your knots.  i have desperately tried to snap flies off on the back cast, and i just can’t do it.  hell, maybe you just have a special talent… wayno

Response:

I don’t know where you live in North Texas, but you might want to check out an event that the Fort Worth FlyFishers Club is involved with that will happen on Sept 21. It is called the Trinity FlyFest and it will include casting lessons. For more information go to WWW. FortWorth FlyFishers.com. The Dallas club does not have an event scheuled in the near future which includes fly casting lessons because our next event is our annual club auction on Sept.21. You might just t ask at the Dallas Orvis Store. There is usualy someone there that will give any customer some casting tips and demonstration  in their parking lot. It is a lot easier to work these kind of problems in person rather than on the net. Contact me if I can be any help. Big Dale  

Response:

Question:

In other words, if you’ve made the moral decision to use a nymph, you might as well use all the weight you need to get it where it needs to be.

"the moral decision to use a nymph"??? I always considered it a tactical decision. What is the morality involved here?  Should we get Dr. Laura involved? George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

Response:

"the moral decision to use a nymph"??? I always considered it a tactical decision. What is the morality involved here?  Should we get Dr. Laura involved?

Hold on, Forty should be here momentarily… Kevin

Response:

In other words, if you’ve made the moral decision to use a nymph, you might as well use all the weight you need to get it where it needs to be. "the moral decision to use a nymph"??? I always considered it a tactical decision. What is the morality involved here?  Should we get Dr. Laura involved?

Oh fer cryin’ out loud George, why don’t you tip your nymph with a piece of corn while you’re at it?

Response:

… So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? I’d just as soon toss in a stick of dynamite or a gallon of Clorox as to use a fucking nymph, weighted or unweighted.

That is a red herring.  Is the dynamite weighted or unweighted?

Response:

If it were me Danl, the answer is no.  You will catch fish if you weight your nymphs but what will you use, lead?  Not necessary.  You can use Zinc or copper if you want but there is a downside.  Your nymphs won’t flow along with the current drag free.  This is where 99% of all nymph fishermen mess up.  Trout are selective under water just as much as they are when coming to dry flies.  Drag free drifts is paramount if you’re going to be a savvy and serious nymph fisherman.  It’s difficult enough as it is and those who need to use bobbers while fly fishing is testimony to that fact.   Lead in a size #22 nymph isn’t going to do you any more good than weight inside a size 14 nymph or wet fly.  What you want to always maintain is a natural drift without lead and use nymphs as sparsely dressed as possible.  This is one of the reasons I make my own hand tied leaders because I would rather have weight on the knots above the main tippet and I use as much as is necessary to get the knot where the tippet is attached to the taper section, not the nymph itself.  I use a minimum of 24 inches of nymphing tippet material between the fly and the first knot.  If the weight (I use soft copper wire or zinc) for weight, if needed) and I use Xink on all my nymphs which will put my nymphs right along the same level as my tippet will be.  If your nymph is tumbling and turning and flowing along as naturally as possible, the amount of takes you’re going to get will triple compared to anyone who uses weight dragging nymphs. There is a zone of a foot or less right on the bottom of all rivers that is current free.  This is where resting fish lay as they watch food go drifting by.  As a dry fly rising fish will rise out of the current to take a fly on the surface, nymphing fish often rise from the very bottom to take a nymph passing by in the current.  You do not want your nymph ticking along the bottom as most profess you should be doing.  You want only the first weighted knot to be ticking along the bottom (every once in a while) and not the hook.  The fish that are caught with weighted nymphs are mostly force fed.  What I mean by this is the angler happens to be lucky enough to hit the fish almost right in the face.   I want to catch trout that are actively feeding on nymphs flowing along with the current because these are the fish that will swing left or right a foot or two.  There are feeding stations under water just as there are on the surface for dry fly fishermen. There is a lot more to this than what I have time to write here now, but to answer your question, you don’t need weighted flies as much as you do need more "Drag Free" drifts. George Gehrke Nymphomaniac Fly Fisherman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Owing to the fact the I lost most of my collection of PT nymphs (to a group of rapscallionous willows, aided and abetted by an army of cattails on steroids and a navy of submerged logs) a couple of weeks ago on the Owens, I need to replenish my supply. At least that’s my excuse for spending hours at the tying bench, busily not doing other chores. So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? Danl That’s the best straight line I can serve up tonight…….

Response:

I generally use weighted nymphs, but I prefer to use bead-heads, when practical, to weight them. Bead-head pheasnat tail nymphs are one of my most productive flies.

Mostly because of the "Apex Flash" on the round globe of the bead, not because of the extra weight which is mostly mute in its ability to influence a fishes’ attention Tim. George Gehrke Nymph maniac Fly Fisherman

Response:

I’d just as soon toss in a stick of dynamite or a gallon of Clorox as to use a fucking nymph, weighted or unweighted. — Ken Fortenberry

Okay?!  So why do you say and feel like this about nymph fishing Ken?   George Gehrke "interested"

Response:

… So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? I’d just as soon toss in a stick of dynamite or a gallon of Clorox as to use a fucking nymph, weighted or unweighted. That is a red herring.  Is the dynamite weighted or unweighted?

that, will you please? jesus! my sides hurt . . .

Response:

Seems to me that it really depends on the water you’re fishing. Clearly, an unweighted nymph casts better and makes more elegant presentations,  and a heavy nymph is pretty ugly in the air, but if the water is fast and deep it’s hard to get an unweighted fly down near the bottom. I suppose one solution would be to use a sinking line, but in the small streams that I usually fish I’ve never been able to see much value in using it. And I don’t like having to carry a floating line for dries and a sinking line for nymphs. In other words, if you’ve made the moral decision to use a nymph, you might as well use all the weight you need to get it where it needs to be. — Bob Patton

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Owing to the fact the I lost most of my collection of PT nymphs (to a group of rapscallionous willows, aided and abetted by an army of cattails on steroids and a navy of submerged logs) a couple of weeks ago on the Owens, I need to replenish my supply. At least that’s my excuse for spending hours at the tying bench, busily not doing other chores. So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? Danl That’s the best straight line I can serve up tonight…….

Response:

… So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? I’d just as soon toss in a stick of dynamite or a gallon of Clorox as to use a fucking nymph, weighted or unweighted.

personally, i like fucking nymphs…… but what the hell ken, whatever floats yer boat <g –waldo

Response:

I like to use a heavily weighted Copper John along with an unweighted nymph, or maybe two. The Copper John takes the place of splitshot, but has fish-catching capability. I still haven’t figured out whether it’s better to put the weighted fly on the top or the bottom. Any opinions on that? — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

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personally, i like fucking nymphs…… but what the hell ken, whatever floats yer boat <g

Past tense, right Walt ? — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

… So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? I’d just as soon toss in a stick of dynamite or a gallon of Clorox as to use a fucking nymph, weighted or unweighted. personally, i like fucking nymphs……

Weighted or unweighted?

Response:

Ken Fortenberry wrote… I’d just as soon toss in a stick of dynamite or a gallon of Clorox as to use a fucking nymph, weighted or unweighted.

Oh you dry fly snob! Joel Axelrad **DFD**

Response:

well, if there is really nothing doing on dries, and I can’t spark some action with soft-hackles, sure, I have some weighted nymphs in my boxes. Mostly I’ll go with bead-heads or in some places weighted stone-fly nymphs. I don’t much like casting heavy flies, nor flies with split-shot, but I’ll do what it takes.  I tend to fish places where I can get by just fine without resorting to heavy stuff. Eugene – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Owing to the fact the I lost most of my collection of PT nymphs (to a group of rapscallionous willows, aided and abetted by an army of cattails on steroids and a navy of submerged logs) a couple of weeks ago on the Owens, I need to replenish my supply. At least that’s my excuse for spending hours at the tying bench, busily not doing other chores. So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? I seldom weight nymphs and I just don’t like the way beadheads look. (I know they catch fish but……) I prefer weight on the leader to weight on the fly in most situations. The only nymphs that I consistant tie with weight are large stoneflies. Willi

Response:

I still haven’t figured out whether it’s better to put the weighted fly on the top or the bottom. Any opinions on that?

I think the unweighted fly "swims" better, more naturally, if it’s on the bottom.  The weighted fly serves the same function as a split shot, but lets the other fly drift more or less freely. JR

Response:

I still haven’t figured out whether it’s better to put the weighted fly on the top or the bottom. Any opinions on that?

I put the weighted fly on top with the unweighted fly on the bottom (point). Just seems to be a logical arrangement, and I have had  success using it. George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

Response:

Owing to the fact the I lost most of my collection of PT nymphs (to a group of rapscallionous willows, aided and abetted by an army of cattails on steroids and a navy of submerged logs) a couple of weeks ago on the Owens, I need to replenish my supply. At least that’s my excuse for spending hours at the tying bench, busily not doing other chores. So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs?

I seldom weight nymphs and I just don’t like the way beadheads look. (I know they catch fish but……) I prefer weight on the leader to weight on the fly in most situations. The only nymphs that I consistant tie with weight are large stoneflies. Willi

Response:

… So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? I’d just as soon toss in a stick of dynamite or a gallon of Clorox as to use a fucking nymph, weighted or unweighted.

I would certainly prefer to use dries all the time, but western tailwaters generally require small(sz 20-26) midge larva patterns.  Over the past few years I would guess that I use nymphs nearly 85% of the time.  This includes dropping a nymph from a dry or using a two nymph rig.     Regarding the use of weighed nymphs.  I have started to stay away from weighted nymphs.  I prefer to use weight directly on the tippet, generally 12 to 18 inches above the point fly.  A tailwater guide in Colorado recently pointed out how weighted nymphs simply don’t float naturally through the water column and he always uses unweighted nymphs.   He also pointed out how BH patterns generally don’t look realistic and more often than not many BH(bead heads) are too big for the hook size.   Especially when dealing with sz 24 midge patterns! For weight, I use that green coated stuff from England.  Can’t think of the name right now…. — remove all x’s for reply email. To worry is folly so let us be jolly.

Response:

    I do indeed tie weighted nymphs.  I use a red thread head on my weighted ones to indicate the difference from non-weighted.  I find arsenic-core lead solder to be a good weighting material as I don’t even have to use a priest, not that I ever would.  I do like the feel of those apache or golden trout flopping around in the creel, so some times I use the unweighted flies with the black-thread or beadheads.     By the way, for all those folk looking for a replacement for Gink, got an old transformer sitting out in the back yard and the liquid in that is great.  Keeps a fly floating forever.  I can ship a quart or two to anyone that needs it.  Might not want to hold your floatant bottle in your teeth, though.     Oh, by the way, for all you pissy C&R folks, I do practice it.  I got a latch on the bottom of the creel that lets me empty that sucker real quick if I see a ranger.  All he’ll find in there is a digital camera and an invite to the Elks Club Fly Tie. Danl,    I’ve gotten away from lead wire sinking nymphs and have found the ease of use of bead heads.  If I need to sink a nymph without a bead, I have found that the split-shot works great. — Frank Reid Reverse email to reply.

Response:

… So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs?

I’d just as soon toss in a stick of dynamite or a gallon of Clorox as to use a fucking nymph, weighted or unweighted. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? That’s the best straight line I can serve up tonight…….

Keeps the ball rolling anyway. The only weight I’ll add to a PT is a copper beadhead,  a small one (3/32" for #14, 5/64" for #16, nothing on smaller sizes).  I like a slim silhouette on PTs and think wrapping weight on the shank ruins that.   The flies I most often weight (other than winter steelhead flies) are woolly buggers.  I’ll also weight Prince and stonefly nymphs, which I frequently fish together with a smaller unweighted fly on a dropper. JR

Response:

8< . So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs?

yes. –waldo

Response:

I generally use weighted nymphs, but I prefer to use bead-heads, when practical, to weight them. Bead-head pheasnat tail nymphs are one of my most productive flies. Tim Lysyk

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Owing to the fact the I lost most of my collection of PT nymphs (to a group of rapscallionous willows, aided and abetted by an army of cattails on steroids and a navy of submerged logs) a couple of weeks ago on the Owens, I need to replenish my supply. At least that’s my excuse for spending hours at the tying bench, busily not doing other chores. So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? Danl That’s the best straight line I can serve up tonight…….

Response:

Owing to the fact the I lost most of my collection of PT nymphs (to a group of rapscallionous willows, aided and abetted by an army of cattails on steroids and a navy of submerged logs) a couple of weeks ago on the Owens, I need to replenish my supply. At least that’s my excuse for spending hours at the tying bench, busily not doing other chores. So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? Danl That’s the best straight line I can serve up tonight…….

Response:

Question:

i am plannig to buy a fly rod (Vision extreme of Loop green line) and here`s a few questions: What is the difference between fast and medium fast rod in fishing? i am fishing in the river where is not much room, which one is better? Which line is better for 5-6 rod, 5 or 6 and what`s the difference? (sorry for bad english:))

Response:

i am plannig to buy a fly rod (Vision extreme of Loop green line) and here`s a few questions: What is the difference between fast and medium fast rod in fishing? i am fishing in the river where is not much room, which one is better? Which line is better for 5-6 rod, 5 or 6 and what`s the difference? (sorry for bad english:))

Read the thread entitled "Fly rod speeds explanation" on June 24. Also, for casting distances of less than 40′ the 6wt line may load the rod better, while for over that distance, the 5 wt. line may load better.  But if you can, try out both lines before you buy.  Perhaps a friend has some lines he can let you cast on your rod, as a test. I am not familiar with the rod you mention.  The medium fast rod may be more forgiving (easier to cast if you are not a very experienced caster). PatK * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

The softer (slower) the rod, the easier it is to cast. The stiffer (faster) the rod, the farther you can cast. The same is true for length, the longer the farther. However other factors come into play when choosing your first rod. physical conditions (trees, underbrush etc.) varietys of fish pursued, last but not least water fished. A nine foot 5wt rod is a usless tool on a 20′ wide heavily treed creek, fishing for panfish. Whereas the same rod is ideal wading a wide clear river casting for 2-3lb rainbows. In other words like in all other endevors choose the proper tool for the job. John Popp

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – i am plannig to buy a fly rod (Vision extreme of Loop green line) and here`s a few questions: What is the difference between fast and medium fast rod in fishing? i am fishing in the river where is not much room, which one is better? Which line is better for 5-6 rod, 5 or 6 and what`s the difference? (sorry for bad english:))

Response:

i am plannig to buy a fly rod (Vision extreme of Loop green line) and here`s a few questions: What is the difference between fast and medium fast rod in fishing? i am fishing in the river where is not much room, which one is better? Which line is better for 5-6 rod, 5 or 6 and what`s the difference? (sorry for bad english:)) I

Question:

btw, here in nc, we call it the sidearm, m*****f*****g rhodo cast.

hee hee hee.  OK honest show of hands, who’s finally ripped off a rhodo branch that was getting in their way?? Regards, Jeff

Response:

Guilty! Cut it off, walk away and hope it doesn’t grow back before you return.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – btw, here in nc, we call it the sidearm, m*****f*****g rhodo cast. hee hee hee.  OK honest show of hands, who’s finally ripped off a rhodo branch that was getting in their way?? Regards, Jeff

Response:

Yea, I do that all the time.. it’s, uhh, on purpose, yea that’s it.. It’s amazing how well this works.. if I only had the ability to do this at will. My errant cast strung like a close line along the willows. I tried flipping the line off the willows and in the process, the fly dropped into the lie, the fish took, jumped the log and brok

– -Mark  –  Particle Salad/ Noom Room Studio  http://home.earthlink.net/~psalad  mp3 songs:  http://www.mp3.com/particlesalad

Response:

Some times we have to let the fish win — NOT!  Next time out, try a well weighted Dupont spinner.  Works every time.                     Frank Reid P.S. For those unfamiliar with the vernacular, a Dupont spinner is so-named because the pricipal manufacturer is the Dupont explosives division.  One can normally be obtained from "Crazy Lefty," the guy that works in the explosives bunker at your neighborhood rock quary for a small price. Warning:  an overuse of false casting while using one may be hazardous to your health. sportsmanship snipped – – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The fish is still there, I still try for it, but I think that’s the closest I’m going to get.

Response:

I first noticed it out of the corner of my eye, a dimple under some overhanging willows. <good story snipped

Ah, the old willow cast.   Thanks for a good one. Joe F.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I first noticed it out of the corner of my eye, a dimple under some overhanging willows. Looking closer, I saw the steady, patterned rise of a fish.  I moved into position down and across from the fish and surveyed the situation. The fish was feeding in some very shallow water and was protected by dense willows above and a log protruding from the bank just upstream from his lie. I thought that maybe a side arm cast would keep the fly low enough to clear the willows and somehow land in the small slow water feeding area behind the log. I cast, snagged the willow, broke off my fly and put down the fish. Each time there were surface feeding fish about, I would find this fish methodically sipping in his hole. For awhile, I tried to come up with something new each time I passed his lie. I tried downstream casts, but the current would either push my fly past the small area where he fed or pile it up and snag the log. During hopper season, I tried skipping a hopper into his lie but caught willows and bark. I tried my crude imitations of pile casts and curve casts but the drift would never bring the fly into his feeding lane. I bushwhacked through the thick willows on the bank where he fed, hoping to try dapping, but long before I got into position, he was put down. When I reached out to extricate the flies I had lost in the willows from my past futile attempts, I was tempted to do some trimming but that didn’t seem too sporting. I had tried everything I could think of to get a fly to this fish. I probably could have somehow swung a streamer or nymph under the log and taken the fish, but it was a consistent, steady surface feeder and I was determined to meet it on these terms. I felt the side arm cast I first tried came the closest to getting the fly where it needed to be. Each time I passed its lie I would give it a shot. I mostly caught willows, but once in a while I would get a cast in where it belonged but the current always grabbed the tippet, dragged the fly and put down the fish. After each failure, I would go upstream to a shallow run to catch a couple easy fish to appease myself. One day, after fishing the run and getting ready to head home, I looked downstream noticed the fish was again rising. I was probably 40 feet away. I have trouble hitting an area the size of a Buick at this distance, much less one the size of a pie pan lying under some willows, but what the hell, one last cast. I hauled my three weight and let a cast go. My errant cast strung like a close line along the willows. I tried flipping the line off the willows and in the process, the fly dropped into the lie, the fish took, jumped the log and broke me off. The fish is still there, I still try for it, but I think that’s the closest I’m going to get. Willi

a nice read…thanks.  btw, here in nc, we call it the sidearm, m*****f*****g rhodo cast. to make it even more challenging, as if the bizarre twists of the branches and leaves aren’t enough, at certain times of the year, the rhodos have a sticky substance at the flower heads of the branches which is stronger than any commercial glue.  put your fly or leader in it and it’s generally easier just to cut the tippet. jeff

Response:

I first noticed it out of the corner of my eye, a dimple under some overhanging willows. Looking closer, I saw the steady, patterned rise of a fish.  I moved into position down and across from the fish and surveyed the situation. The fish was feeding in some very shallow water and was protected by dense willows above and a log protruding from the bank just upstream from his lie. I thought that maybe a side arm cast would keep the fly low enough to clear the willows and somehow land in the small slow water feeding area behind the log. I cast, snagged the willow, broke off my fly and put down the fish. Each time there were surface feeding fish about, I would find this fish methodically sipping in his hole. For awhile, I tried to come up with something new each time I passed his lie. I tried downstream casts, but the current would either push my fly past the small area where he fed or pile it up and snag the log. During hopper season, I tried skipping a hopper into his lie but caught willows and bark. I tried my crude imitations of pile casts and curve casts but the drift would never bring the fly into his feeding lane. I bushwhacked through the thick willows on the bank where he fed, hoping to try dapping, but long before I got into position, he was put down. When I reached out to extricate the flies I had lost in the willows from my past futile attempts, I was tempted to do some trimming but that didn’t seem too sporting. I had tried everything I could think of to get a fly to this fish. I probably could have somehow swung a streamer or nymph under the log and taken the fish, but it was a consistent, steady surface feeder and I was determined to meet it on these terms. I felt the side arm cast I first tried came the closest to getting the fly where it needed to be. Each time I passed its lie I would give it a shot. I mostly caught willows, but once in a while I would get a cast in where it belonged but the current always grabbed the tippet, dragged the fly and put down the fish. After each failure, I would go upstream to a shallow run to catch a couple easy fish to appease myself. One day, after fishing the run and getting ready to head home, I looked downstream noticed the fish was again rising. I was probably 40 feet away. I have trouble hitting an area the size of a Buick at this distance, much less one the size of a pie pan lying under some willows, but what the hell, one last cast. I hauled my three weight and let a cast go. My errant cast strung like a close line along the willows. I tried flipping the line off the willows and in the process, the fly dropped into the lie, the fish took, jumped the log and broke me off. The fish is still there, I still try for it, but I think that’s the closest I’m going to get. Willi

Response:

Question:

Alaska River Adventures ( George Heim out of Kenai) is a great operation with a website http://www.alaskariveradv.com/. Katmai Fishing Adventures (Nanci Morris) runs flyfishing trips out of Bristol Bay area but fishes S. Alaska frequently. Katmai is at 907 246 8322 (sorry no web address yet except through http://www.worldangler.com/nmorakad.html – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –    Contact The Alaska Expidition Co.  1-800-572-0980 or 903-463-7112.  They have a lodge on the Tsiu river and September is a good time to go.  Lots of silvers, few bears.   Look and the latest fly-fisherman mag.    Scott Hi Gang, Been gone for a while but had nothing but great advice from this newsgroup in the past. I got the nod for an Alaska fishing adventure this Summer around the first of September.  I’d do either a float trip or lodge in the panhandle around Ketchican or Juneau…I’d like some wilderness maby float plane jet boat or raft and lots of wild salmon and trout. Less bears is better but this is Alaska…what can you do. Can anyone suggest a friendly lodge on the budget side that can give you the flyfish trip of a lifetime? Thanks, -John

Response:

Hi Gang, Been gone for a while but had nothing but great advice from this newsgroup in the past. I got the nod for an Alaska fishing adventure this Summer around the first of September.  I’d do either a float trip or lodge in the panhandle around Ketchican or Juneau…I’d like some wilderness maby float plane jet boat or raft and lots of wild salmon and trout. Less bears is better but this is Alaska…what can you do. Can anyone suggest a friendly lodge on the budget side that can give you the flyfish trip of a lifetime? Thanks, -John

Response:

You might look into Alaska Rainbow Adventures for a float trip. Web site at  http://www.akrainbow.com. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Gang, Been gone for a while but had nothing but great advice from this newsgroup in the past. I got the nod for an Alaska fishing adventure this Summer around the first of September.  I’d do either a float trip or lodge in the panhandle around Ketchican or Juneau…I’d like some wilderness maby float plane jet boat or raft and lots of wild salmon and trout. Less bears is better but this is Alaska…what can you do. Can anyone suggest a friendly lodge on the budget side that can give you the flyfish trip of a lifetime? Thanks, -John

Response:

        Contact The Alaska Expidition Co.  1-800-572-0980 or 903-463-7112.  They have a lodge on the Tsiu river and September is a good time to go.  Lots of silvers, few bears.   Look and the latest fly-fisherman mag.         Scott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Gang, Been gone for a while but had nothing but great advice from this newsgroup in the past. I got the nod for an Alaska fishing adventure this Summer around the first of September.  I’d do either a float trip or lodge in the panhandle around Ketchican or Juneau…I’d like some wilderness maby float plane jet boat or raft and lots of wild salmon and trout. Less bears is better but this is Alaska…what can you do. Can anyone suggest a friendly lodge on the budget side that can give you the flyfish trip of a lifetime? Thanks, -John

Response:

Question:

at about 10 am on saturday, matt called me from the shop to let me know his guided trip was cancelled. it was sleeting/snowing and the outside temp. was about 28. we decided it was perfect weather to go fishing. so we got together, geared up, and headed over to tn to fish the tailwaters on the watauga. after a lunch stop at jeff miller’s favorite burger franchise, we headed to the parking area, put waders on and made our way down to the river. the watauga river at this stretch is about 40 to 50 yards wide with an awesome cliff face acting as the opposite bank. there is a water-level cave in the cliff face that as legend goes, was used by the confederates to hide ammo and stores in the recent unpleasantness. as we approached the water, a few other anglers were pulling out, explaining as they went that the water was going to be coming up from the generating station 12 miles east of where we were and it would get pretty hairy if you were out in the river. i asked one of the guys what kind of increase, and he pointed to his chest…in other words, about 3′ of higher water. well hell, we decided to stay close to shore (mama didn’t raise a fool) and try our luck. i tied on a bead-head pheasant tail, size 14 and started dead drifting it through a run and picked up a 12" or so rainbow. i noticed that i was now standing in about 2 feet of water where before it was only about a foot. i checked a rock that i was keeping an eye on, and sure enough, water was starting to flow over it. i hailed matt and told him we better move back some and as he was pulling in his contraption (for lack of a better term for the established guide rig) a rainbow took one of the many flies he was drifting. another gentleman, who was downstream from us, made his way up towards us and we all entered into discussion about what a great strech of river it was and how much higher the water would rise. neal was fishing a beautiful leonard bamboo rod with a princess reel, awesome. he was testing a new crane-fly pattern that he had tied up. as we were just standing in 6 or so inches of water trying to decide what to do about the riskier conditions, i started dead drifting again. bam, a fish. bam, another, fish. as matt was talking about leaving, bam, another fish. to hell with leaving….i say. the river had come up (a foot or two), the water was faster, but it was definetly fishable. here we were, just the three of us, on the most coveted trophy section of the watauga tail-race. cool. to shorten the story….many more fish were caught (matt even managed a big rainbow at about 18-20), some regal (pabst) beer was consumed, and afterwords, it only took 3 hours for my feet to thaw. walt — Ezflyfish.com http://www.ezflyfish.com BRBG http://www.abebooks.com/home/BLUEBOOKS P.O. Box 5112  Banner Elk, NC 28604 (828)963-5001

Response:

So how far is it from Raleigh to the Watauga? Steve Zimmerman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – excellent trip report snipped… walt

Response:

About 5.5 hours, Steve, if the weather’s OK and I-40/85 doesn’t have more than 10 wrecks in the construction zones between Durham and Hwy 421. Tom — Tom Brown The Signal Group Wake Forest, NC HEATHEN, n. A benighted creature who has the folly to worship something that he can see and feel.                – Ambrose Bierce: The Devil’s Dictionary – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -.. So how far is it from Raleigh to the Watauga? Steve Zimmerman excellent trip report snipped… walt

Response:

Question:

Roffians, A friend of mine wants to get on ROFF but doesn’t really know how to do it. He is using AOL, which I’m not familiar with. I was hoping one of you who have AOL could give him some guidance. His name is Dennis, his email is Thanks Tim Apple — "Bamboo is Better"

Response:

A friend of mine wants to get on ROFF but doesn’t really know how to do it. He is using AOL, which I’m not familiar with. I was hoping one of you who have AOL could give him some guidance. His name is Dennis, his email is Thanks

From the task bar, Click on Internet, Click on Newsgroups Click on Expert Add Type in rec.outdoors.fishing.fly, press enter he will be subscribed To read Click on Internet Click on Newsgroups Click on read my Newsgroups Wayne who if he could ever get his other ISP to work right on text based newsgroups would leave aol in a heartbeat. Wayne Knight (remove nospam to respond via mail) Expert in the creation of  wind knots and tailing loops.

Response:

Question:

Hi Mike, Although I live in the East Bay, I’ve been to a shop fairly close to you in San Bruno.  I think the name is Ultimate fly shop on San Mateo Ave.  Low key but good service.   Within in 2.5 hours there is good fishing on the Yuba, Feather,Putah Creek,and Stanislaus rivers.  Also Sea pearch, stripers etc. are close by.  Never done salt water, but here it’s very good. Welcome, Mike

Response:

(Mike Lynch) writes: I moved to the SF Bay area about 6 mos. ago and I thought I left my fly-fishing days behind me in Utah (where I’m from).  Anyway, I’ve actually heard there’s some good fishing around SF (I live in San Mateo). Any suggestions on where to fish, when to fish, good shops, what to fish for, etc. would be greatly appreciated.  Also, what about saltwater flyfishing – I’ve never done it – popular around here?

Hi Mike and welcome to the neighborhood. As far as shops go there are a bunch: the Midge shop in Los Altos, The Caddis (somewhere in Belmont), the Ultimate in San Bruno, and of course Orvis in San Francisco (where I can be found when I’m not teaching schools), – also Fly Fishing Outfitters around the corner from Orvis. There are only a few places that are day trips out of SF to fish.  Putah Creek coming out of Lake Berryessa is about 1 1/2 hr. from San Mateo (I live in San Mateo).  The Stanislaus River below Goodwin Dam and the Mokulumne River below Comanche Dam are a little over two hours away.  Both the Stanislaus and the Mokulumne are closed now to allow the salmon a chance to spawn unmolested, but will re-open on Jan 1st.   Through Nov. 15th you can drive 5 to 6 hours north and fish the Upper Sac, the McCloud, Hat Creek, the Pit River, and Fall River.  About 4 1/2 hrs to the upper part of the Trinity.  Lots of other small streams and lakes in this Shasta area. You can drive about 4 to 4 1/2 hrs. east and fish the Tahoe area in the Sierra – Truckee, Little Truckee, and numerous small streams and lakes. As long as Tioga Pass through Yosemite is open, the Eastern Sierra is about a 5 1/2 hr. trip.  Lots of great fishing around the Mammoth Lakes area to the south of the pass and the Bridgeport/Twin Lakes area to the North of the pass.  Most of this area closes October 31st, so be sure to check the regs. If you plan on fishing the Sierra, pick up a copy of Ralph Cutter’s book "Sierra Trout Guide".  It is invaluable to get you started in the Sierra and to help you plan trips for years to come. Since you live in San Mateo, you should take Hwy. 92 west to Half Moon Bay.  You can fish up and down the coast from there for Surf Perch and Rockfish.  Pick up a copy of Ken Hanley’s book "Afoot in the Surf Zone" for specifics on beaches, times, and quarry.  Don’t attempt this during the Pumpkin Festival as you could probably drive to Tahoe in the time it takes to travel the 20 or so miles to HMB during the festival.  Normally it’s a pretty quick trip – 1/2 hr. or so.   During June and July you can sometimes catch stripers in the surf at the beaches around the golden gate.  Fairly consistent striper fishing can be had in the delta, though you need a boat to do so.   If you drive down to Sant Cruz or Monterey you can rent a boat and go fish the kelp bed for Kelp Bass. And then of course, there’s the steelhead fishing on the north coast that is just starting.                              Good Fishing,                                   Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – (Mike Lynch) writes: I moved to the SF Bay area about 6 mos. ago and I thought I left my fly-fishing days behind me in Utah (where I’m from).  Anyway, I’ve actually heard there’s some good fishing around SF (I live in San Mateo). Any suggestions on where to fish, when to fish, good shops, what to fish for, etc. would be greatly appreciated.  Also, what about saltwater flyfishing – I’ve never done it – popular around here? Hi Mike and welcome to the neighborhood. As far as shops go there are a bunch: the Midge shop in Los Altos, The Caddis (somewhere in Belmont), the Ultimate in San Bruno, and of course Orvis in San Francisco (where I can be found when I’m not teaching schools), – also Fly Fishing Outfitters around the corner from Orvis. There are only a few places that are day trips out of SF to fish.  Putah Creek coming out of Lake Berryessa is about 1 1/2 hr. from San Mateo (I live in San Mateo).  The Stanislaus River below Goodwin Dam and the Mokulumne River below Comanche Dam are a little over two hours away.  Both the Stanislaus and the Mokulumne are closed now to allow the salmon a chance to spawn unmolested, but will re-open on Jan 1st.   Through Nov. 15th you can drive 5 to 6 hours north and fish the Upper Sac, the McCloud, Hat Creek, the Pit River, and Fall River.  About 4 1/2 hrs to the upper part of the Trinity.  Lots of other small streams and lakes in this Shasta area. You can drive about 4 to 4 1/2 hrs. east and fish the Tahoe area in the Sierra – Truckee, Little Truckee, and numerous small streams and lakes. As long as Tioga Pass through Yosemite is open, the Eastern Sierra is about a 5 1/2 hr. trip.  Lots of great fishing around the Mammoth Lakes area to the south of the pass and the Bridgeport/Twin Lakes area to the North of the pass.  Most of this area closes October 31st, so be sure to check the regs. If you plan on fishing the Sierra, pick up a copy of Ralph Cutter’s book "Sierra Trout Guide".  It is invaluable to get you started in the Sierra and to help you plan trips for years to come. Since you live in San Mateo, you should take Hwy. 92 west to Half Moon Bay.  You can fish up and down the coast from there for Surf Perch and Rockfish.  Pick up a copy of Ken Hanley’s book "Afoot in the Surf Zone" for specifics on beaches, times, and quarry.  Don’t attempt this during the Pumpkin Festival as you could probably drive to Tahoe in the time it takes to travel the 20 or so miles to HMB during the festival.  Normally it’s a pretty quick trip – 1/2 hr. or so.   During June and July you can sometimes catch stripers in the surf at the beaches around the golden gate.  Fairly consistent striper fishing can be had in the delta, though you need a boat to do so.   If you drive down to Sant Cruz or Monterey you can rent a boat and go fish the kelp bed for Kelp Bass. And then of course, there’s the steelhead fishing on the north coast that is just starting.                             Good Fishing,                                  Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

Snip Funny, I moved ther other way… CA to UT. The fishing here is great. I just wanted to mention the Cassel Forebay near Hat Creek in northern CA. Returned there two weekends ago for my annual Columbus Day trip and thought the place is getting better all the time. I know Dick Gallands house and school are right there, but best kept secrets need to leak out once in a while                 Draper, Utah Wherever you go….. There you will be

Response:

Hi all, I moved to the SF Bay area about 6 mos. ago and I thought I left my fly-fishing days behind me in Utah (where I’m from).  Anyway, I’ve actually heard there’s some good fishing around SF (I live in San Mateo). Any suggestions on where to fish, when to fish, good shops, what to fish for, etc. would be greatly appreciated.  Also, what about saltwater flyfishing – I’ve never done it – popular around here? Thanks, Mike Lynch

Response:

Question:

Anyone know of a Horse/Burro Co. that bring folks into the Kings Canyon area of California?  Or maybe a suggested newsgroup I might try. Thanks. Randy Rose

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Anyone know of a Horse/Burro Co. that bring folks into the Kings Canyon area of California?  

There are a number of pack stations that take people into Kings Cyn.  A few are actually in Kings Cyn. and Sequoia Parks and there are several on the east side off US Highway 395.  Best source of names and addresses are two publications from the Automobile Club of Southern Calif. (AAA):    1. The guide book "Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks"    2. The map "Guide to Eastern Sierra" BTW, the fishing, esp. fly fishing, on the small creeks early in the season and the So. Fork of the Kings in late summer and fall is among the best in Calif. and you don’t have to walk or ride very far to escape the crouds.

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Roger– Try Art Flick’s Streamside Guide, an antiquated but fairly accurate book on mayflies, and Gary LaFontaine’s Caddisflies.  Try getting your hands on some entomological field guides from your nearest college library. Remember that nothing beats walking around in a stream catching the insects yourself. Ned Stankus

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Since I am really into fly fishing I would like to learn more about the various hatches and what to look for on the stream’s I fish. I own a copy of "Trout Stream Insects" by Dick Pobst but find I still can not identify all the hatches and what imitation to use. If anyone knows of a good reference book please let me know.  * 1st 1.11 #1315 * The problem with the future is it turns into the present. |_|_| PC-Ohio PCBoard OLS      pcohio.com     HST 16.8: 216-381-3320 |_|_| The Best BBS in America  Cleveland, OH  V34 28.8: 216-691-3030

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