Question:

I am a commercial  bush pilot living in Canada, I fly floats in the summer and wheel/skis in the winter.  I  do all of my fueling, cleaning, loading, basically im a one man show.   I love the float season, i love flying into little lakes, beaching on a island, dumping my passengers off and then swimming or fishing for a while if I have time before my next flight.   My problem is this;  I know that if I want to make any money I will probibaly have to move into the multi ifr stuff in the next couple of years before i get too old (im 26).  And the problem with that is I have done the ifr ground school twice (3-day cram fest in Vancouver for $200) and have not completed it either time.  I am bored shitless and cant concentrate!  I just cant get into it and I’m not sure why?  For you comm pilots out there flying ifr all the time; does it suck?  are you bored most of the time?  I go up to the cockpit on air canada A320 sometimes and visit the pilots and they dont seem to have much to do….or see. Any float drivers turned ifr drivers out there who can give me some encouragement?   Are there any fun ifr jobs where i dont have to dawn a shirt with those prissy gold bars?  Am I doomed to choose between a job I hate for the money or a job I love and poverty? Help, jon

Response:

 …And the problem with that is I have done the ifr ground school twice (3-day cram fest in Vancouver for $200) and have not completed it either time.  I am bored shitless and cant concentrate!  I just cant get into it and I’m not sure why?

Skip the book stuff for now and try IFR flight training for a while-that’s where the challenge is. If it still bores you, go back to what you love. If you make good money doing something you hate, how well off are you, really? Dan N9387D at BFM

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John.  I have a private homebuilt floatplane and suffer with a similar malady. In my case it’s eliminating one rat from the urban rat race and going north to make a meagre living by flying.  I encountered the following, which while not right for me, might help you out.  About a year ago, the ontario government was looking for conservation officers to fly small aircraft in northern ontario enforcing hunting and fishing regs, and doing all those other things that conservation officers are supposed to do.  Might be worth checking out.  IIRC, they were flying Maules. Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am a commercial  bush pilot living in Canada, I fly floats in the summer and wheel/skis in the winter.  I  do all of my fueling, cleaning, loading, basically im a one man show.   I love the float season, i love flying into little lakes, beaching on a island, dumping my passengers off and then swimming or fishing for a while if I have time before my next flight.   My problem is this;  I know that if I want to make any money I will probibaly have to move into the multi ifr stuff in the next couple of years before i get too old (im 26).  And the problem with that is I have done the ifr ground school twice (3-day cram fest in Vancouver for $200) and have not completed it either time.  I am bored shitless and cant concentrate!  I just cant get into it and I’m not sure why?  For you comm pilots out there flying ifr all the time; does it suck?  are you bored most of the time?  I go up to the cockpit on air canada A320 sometimes and visit the pilots and they dont seem to have much to do….or see. Any float drivers turned ifr drivers out there who can give me some encouragement?   Are there any fun ifr jobs where i dont have to dawn a shirt with those prissy gold bars?  Am I doomed to choose between a job I hate for the money or a job I love and poverty? Help, jon

Response:

OK I’ll bite, even though floats are still on my "someday" list… I love it all.  I fly all-weather all-night air ambulance operations (IFR, of course), freight, and passengers.  That’s fun.  So is taking my Taylorcraft and hand-propping it, stopping at grass strips, and paying cash for gas (usually whatever cash made it through the laundry in my jeans pocket covers my fuel bill). I also really enjoy giving passengers a super-smooth ride in challenging weather (or at least trying).  I did a life flight the other day with a very ill little girl and her mother and really felt like I was helping them by making the flight as comfortable as possible, even though the destination was barely above minimums.   And, I think I fly each operation better from the experience in the other.  They taylorcraft makes me acutely aware of aircraft limitations (no lights, no radios) and the twins make me aware of the aircraft’s possibilities.  I like both! You’ll need to pursue your IR in order to get full satisfaction.  I know the Canadian system is different from ours but put your head down and get your exams done, then enjoy the flying! Jim Wolper ATP/PhD/CFII

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For you comm pilots out there flying ifr all the time; does it suck? are you bored most of the time?  I go up to the cockpit on air canada A320 sometimes and visit the pilots and they dont seem to have much to do….or see.

No, I’m not bored.  Terror tends to concentrate the mind.  :-)   Not much to see, except the instruments, but you have to watch them VERY closely.  Just because there isn’t much movement doesn’t mean nothing is happening.  Try some flying under the hood & see if you don’t enjoy it.   Admittedly, the ground school isn’t that exciting, but I do enjoy the flying.  If you don’t enjoy precision flying, it won’t be as much fun, but I enjoy the challenge.  A night ILS to minimums makes it seem better.

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Question:

Register now for: Fly tying classes, instructor Derek Tay,  beginning January 1999 Fly Casting classes beginning April 1999 Christmas gift certificates available Atlantic Fly Fishing School Brookfield, Nova Scotia www.flyschool.net

Response:

Register now for: Fly tying classes, instructor Derek Tay,  beginning January 1999 Fly Casting classes beginning April 1999 Christmas gift certificates available Atlantic Fly Fishing School Brookfield, Nova Scotia www.flyschool.net

____ Your http://www.flyschool.net  will show up blueif you add the http://  (I think!)  Why it didn’t light up as a web site, I don’t know.   Someone will tell me. Anyhow, I think teaching people "how" to use their hands tying flies is the primary goal before we teach them specific flies.  For example, how to use the hands to tie in tails, wings, tying knots, etc. When I go to Sports Shows with Fly Tiers, I will watch instructors on how they explain tying a fly, and FEW, if any ever cover what they are doing with their hands to properly divide the wings for that fly, for instance. "Sure, I know you use Calf Hair, but . . . " I will visit your site and see what you have. If you need to try some FLY-MAKER’S WAX or order some, let me know at: http://www.gink.com/ (Was I tactful enough with that fellahs?) no?  huh?

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Question:

I would like some advice on bite tippets for Blue Fish and other toothy critters – both fresh and saltwater.  I have used various wire type leaders for spin fishing but have no experience with fly fishing for northerns, blue fish etc. Thanks Jim

Response:

For bluefish smaller than 4 pounds you can get away with 30 pound mason or similar hard mono.  Anything bigger and you will wnat singlestrand wire. Cehck out any of the good knot books (Mclane or whoever) for ways to join wire to mono. For spanish mackerel heavy mono is fine.  King macs wire.   Northern pike will let you get away with mono.  there are some who say wire is better because it is thinner.  In my experience it just scares the fish due to shine.  Use clear Mason. Do no use braided wire.  No good at all.

I would like some advice on bite tippets for Blue Fish and other toothy critters – both fresh and saltwater.  I have used various wire type leaders for spin fishing but have no experience with fly fishing for northerns, blue fish etc. Thanks Jim — Flyfish NC                                                   Gordon Churchill http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/3853                                                                    

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I would like some advice on bite tippets for Blue Fish and other toothy critters – both fresh and saltwater.  I have used various wire type leaders for spin fishing but have no experience with fly fishing for northerns, blue fish etc. Thanks Jim

Hi Jim, I think most fly fishers use wire for Barracudas, Northern Pike, Sharks and Bluefish. For Billfish, Tarpon, Snook and Jacks most use heavy/hard mono. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

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Question:

I need anything you can dig up, and/or send me on fishing in and around Tucson AZ. I’m going out there on business from 4/22 to 4/29. My address is

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As far as I could tell, there is only one fly shop in Tucson.  That is Tight Lines Fly Fishing, it’s on Grant Road just west of Swan.  I was last there in January on business.  I didn’t get the chance to do any fly fishing around Tucson, but did get the chance to visit the shop.  I think that you’ll have to get out of town about 2 hours before you find any water. Strictly lakes.  You may be able to find some trout.  Check with the shop. I used to live in Tucson and had the most luck at Parker lake (near the border, southeast of Tucson) with spinning gear.  I heard that Pena Blanca Lake was fishing well in January.  It’s almost to Nogales off of I-19.  Good luck.  Kevin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I need anything you can dig up, and/or send me on fishing in and around Tucson AZ. I’m going out there on business from 4/22 to 4/29. My address is

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Question:

I am headed to Captiva Island March 19-26. I am planning to fish till I drop! I need info about where to get maps (ahead of time), where to fish the surf, the grasses, and the mangroves. What would be runnning this time of year? Any chance for Tarpon? I am planning to rent a boat, wade,  or hire a guide for a day. I have some light salt water spinning tackle but my fly rod is too light for salt and my fly reel is designed for fresh water. I am staying a South Seas Plantation and I have access to a car.  Any info about the area will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mike St. Louis, Mo.

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Mike, 941-624-2923 (Fly Fishing).  Both work the Boca Grande/Port Charlotte area and will arrange to meet you at a place of your choice (They bring the boat to you).  Snook, trout, redfish, grouper are for sure and both these guys know were there are some year around Tarpon in the area.  We fished them in November with Dan. Paul Phillips Director of Operations Fintastic Fish Mounts http://www.fintastic.com take off the 1 for E-mail – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am headed to Captiva Island March 19-26. I am planning to fish till I drop! I need info about where to get maps (ahead of time), where to fish the surf, the grasses, and the mangroves. What would be runnning this time of year? Any chance for Tarpon? I am planning to rent a boat, wade,  or hire a guide for a day. I have some light salt water spinning tackle but my fly rod is too light for salt and my fly reel is designed for fresh water. I am staying a South Seas Plantation and I have access to a car.  Any info about the area will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mike St. Louis, Mo.

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Question:

This month’s cover kit comprises a miniature rose sampler kit with wooden frame. p6 Cross Stitch World: news and giveaways p8 A Place in the Country: a picture of a thatched cottage with a profusion of flowers around it designed by Sheila Hudson. (28hpi jobelan; stitch count: 110 high x 140 wide). (All charts in black and white) (See Cool and Simple below) p12 Heart Sampler: lovely pastel sampler using white cotton perle for depth and texture, designed by Christine Ann Martin ( 32hpi jobelan, some beading, wildflowers threads, 218 high x 166 wide; kit available by mail order). p19 Your Letters p20 A Royal Romance: lovely carousel horses – Guinevere and Lancelot – designed by Sue Cook (28hpi evenweave, essential because of large use of fractional stitches, use of Anchor marlitt, Kreinlitt blending filament, Mill Hill beads and charms, tassels and couching; 135high x 100 wide). p26 The Perfect Figurine: article about Royal Doulton with address for cross stitch kit tie-ins. p29 Poppy Cushion: dramatic cushion design by Sue Page (28 hpi jobelan, 129highx129 wide). p32 In the Swim: kit reviews with a fish theme: Fisherman and his Catch by Eva Rosenstand; Fly Fishing by Heritage; Orca Trio by Cross My Heart Inc; and Fishing Sampler by Anchor (Penelope). p34 Classic Collection: a selection of Thank You cards by Debra Page. p39 Out of the Blue: last of the white on blue floral designs by Lesley Brankin to complete the cushion or to use separately. (28hpi evenweave; 133 high x 109 wide – 4 of the flowers plus border; kit available). p42 The Circus, Bath: the delightful Georgian terrace, composed by Christine Sylvester of Abacus Designs (14hpi aida; 74 high x 123 wide). p47 A Chart for Baby: chart reviews with a baby theme. p48 Cool and Simple: A lovely 3-panel sampler by Sue Page (28 hpi jobelan; use of satin stitch, Algerian Eyes, Eyelets and Diamond eyelets, which are all explained; kit available, although it is not mentioned in the mail order section but a kit for the Summer Cottage, see above, is). p54 Fragrant Stitches: round trinket box lid (designer not attributed) of dog roses and rose hips (32hpi evenweave in dark green, 51 high x 49 wide) p60 Do not disturb: door name plates for kids, again not attributed, full alphabet given (14hpi aida; 24 high x 130 wide). NEXT MONTH: lovely rose and lilies firescreen project, Golden Sun Angel, striking Barn Owl and Autumn Sampler. Free floral card kit plus 3 illustrated cards and envelopes. Dianne

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How does one subscribe to this publication? thanks, Angie who can never have enought XS mags.

Response:

How does one subscribe to this publication? thanks, Angie who can never have enought XS mags.

Hi Angie, If you buy any of the x-stitch magazines there is a card or a page which you can fill in and send back to the publisher. Yours in Stitching Sharon ****** — Sharon D Ward http://www.danesholme.demon.co.uk

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Question:

I am planning a trip to Mayville WI. sometime in the spring or summer. I want to do a little flyfishing need a little help on where to go in the area. Mayville is due south of Fond du Lac maybe 20 miles and west of Hywy 41 by about 10 or so. I havent been there for 30 years but want to combine a trip to visit relatives with some fishing. I live in Seattle and do mostly lake fishing here and I want to do river or stream fishing back there. Any suggestions?

Martin:         You might want to indicate what kind of fishing you are interested in. For steelhead/salmon on Lake Michigan’s tribs, or inland? Warmwater or cold? How far you willing to travel? tgb

Response:

Try this site: — http://www.execpc.com/~glsfc/fish_wi

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am planning a trip to Mayville WI. sometime in the spring or summer. I want to do a little flyfishing need a little help on where to go in the area. Mayville is due south of Fond du Lac maybe 20 miles and west of Hywy 41 by about 10 or so. I havent been there for 30 years but want to combine a trip to visit relatives with some fishing. I live in Seattle and do mostly lake fishing here and I want to do river or stream fishing back there. Any suggestions? Martin:         You might want to indicate what kind of fishing you are interested in. For steelhead/salmon on Lake Michigan’s tribs, or inland? Warmwater or cold? How far you willing to travel? tgb

My fishing is for small fish. Hopefully trout but bass or blugill would be OK. I am going to use a 8 ft. 5 wt. fly rod. I would really like to do only streams as that is what I want to learn. I will have to rent a car there so a hours drive would be just perfect. 2 hours would be pushing it but possible if the reward was there. Thanks for the suggestion.

Response:

I am planning a trip to Mayville WI. sometime in the spring or summer. I want to do a little flyfishing need a little help on where to go in the area. Mayville is due south of Fond du Lac maybe 20 miles and west of Hywy 41 by about 10 or so. I havent been there for 30 years but want to combine a trip to visit relatives with some fishing. I live in Seattle and do mostly lake fishing here and I want to do river or stream fishing back there… My fishing is for small fish. Hopefully trout but bass or blugill would be OK. I am going to use a 8 ft. 5 wt. fly rod. I would really like to do only streams as that is what I want to learn. I will have to rent a car there so a hours drive would be just perfect. 2 hours would be pushing it but possible if the reward was there.

Martin:         Let me do a little thinking and map looking and I’ll get back to you. I’m not in that area but know of it and might be able to help. A couple of nice streams suggest themselves right off but I’d rather try to look first and advise later rather than mucking things up the other way around.         You know one of the problems with doing what you are thinking of doing can be best realized by imagining a guy coming to your area and trying to have a good time of it without a scintilla of the hard-won experience you’ve got as to where to go, when, using what equipment, flies, etc., etc. I.e., it might make sense to think about getting a guide if you can swing the dough? Even if only for a 1/2 day (if they go along with same); sometimes they can turn you on to just enough that you can take it from there.         But I’ll get back to you with what I can dig up about the area you’ll be visiting in any case. Tom Burczyk The workings of great institutions is mainly the result of a vast mass of routine, petty malice, self-interest, carelessness, and sheer mistake. Only a residual fraction is thought." Santayana

Response:

I am planning a trip to Mayville WI. sometime in the spring or summer. I want to do a little flyfishing need a little help on where to go in the area. Mayville is due south of Fond du Lac maybe 20 miles and west of Hywy 41 by about 10 or so. I havent been there for 30 years but want to combine a trip to visit relatives with some fishing. I live in Seattle and do mostly lake fishing here and I want to do river or stream fishing back there. Any suggestions? Martin — Martin Jensen

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Question:

Just to ephasizewhat was allreay stated. 1. Mix the FlexCoat EXACTLY 50/50. 2. Make sure resin and hardener are mixed thouroughly.

Response:

I just bought the book The Art of Building a Graphite Fly Rod by L.A. Garcia, and he too stresses an accurate mix and LIGHT stirring (so not to introduce bubbles) for the count of 120.  Every 10 strokes, reverse the direction of your stirring.   A sunny day,      a box of midges,         and a wandering stream…   Man, this MUST be heaven!   <    Steve Kulpa    <<

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<sni In the past I have used Flex Coat to finish off the wraping on guides of the rods that I build.  My question is,  Is there any other coating or adhesive that anyone has used instead of the Flex Coat?  My problems with Flex Coat is that it takes three days for it to dry, and when it is dry the coating doesn’t appear to be very tough.

 <snip This problem was addressed in a series of posts some time back. The solution to your problem is as follows: i) be accurate in mixing 50/50 portions of the resin and hardener and even more important ii) mix thourougly, meaning for at least 2 minutes (or more).

<snip In my boat building, I have run aross instructions for epoxy (2 part) mixtures that recommend that you let the mixture set for 5 minutes, after mixing, before applying, to let the reactions kick off.  They also echo the previous information; be careful about your measurements and mix thoroughly.   I have used flex cote for years and have no problem. I particularly like the flexcote thin mixture.

Response:

In my boat building, I have run aross instructions for epoxy (2 part) mixtures that recommend that you let the mixture set for 5 minutes, after mixing, before applying, to let the reactions kick off.  They also echo the previous information; be careful about your measurements and mix thoroughly.  

I am not sure I’d recommend this.  The pot life of the Flex Coat seems to be fairly short.  The manufacturer recommends spreading out the mixed solution on aluminum foil to increase the life, but I find that even doing this only results in a pot life only slightly longer than the 5 minutes you suggest waiting.   I have never had the slightest problem measuring 50/50 (with syringes) and mixing for about 1-2minutes, then applying immediately (regular or "high build" versions).  Results in a tough, smooth finish that cures in about 24 hours. -tgades

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -M. Gades) writes: In my boat building, I have run aross instructions for epoxy (2 part) mixtures that recommend that you let the mixture set for 5 minutes, after mixing, before applying, to let the reactions kick off.  They also echo the previous information; be careful about your measurements and mix thoroughly.   I am not sure I’d recommend this.  The pot life of the Flex Coat seems to be fairly short.  The manufacturer recommends spreading out the mixed solution on aluminum foil to increase the life, but I find that even doing this only results in a pot life only slightly longer than the 5 minutes you suggest waiting.   I have never had the slightest problem measuring 50/50 (with syringes) and mixing for about 1-2minutes, then applying immediately (regular or "high build" versions).  Results in a tough, smooth finish that cures in about 24 hours. -tgades

I have not had any problem with the pot life on flex coat.  I use the flex coat lite, and generally take about 15 to 20 minutes to get the finish on.  Don’t know what the difference is, but there you be…  You can tell when it is going off when the container gets warm.

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I always make sure my working room temp is above 65 degrees.  A desk lamp left on over your rod turner will suffice.  A fish tank thermometer helps too. Ross Wilson

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In the past I have used Flex Coat to finish off the wraping on guides of the rods that I build.  My question is,  Is there any other coating or adhesive that anyone has used instead of the Flex Coat?  My problems with Flex Coat is that it takes three days for it to dry, and when it is dry the coating doesn’t appear to be very tough. By tough I mean it seems to abraid very easy.  If anyone has any suggestions or has used another method to finish off the threads plaese let me know.                             Paul Grabek

Response:

In the past I have used Flex Coat to finish off the wraping on guides of the rods that I build.  My question is,  Is there any other coating or adhesive that anyone has used instead of the Flex Coat?  My problems with Flex Coat is that it takes three days for it to dry, and when it is dry the coating doesn’t appear to be very tough. By tough I mean it seems to abraid very easy.  If anyone has any suggestions or has used another method to finish off the threads plaese let me know.

I am assuming that you are getting the two-part mixture precisely 50/50? If not, use 2 syringes and mix exactly 50/50.   My experience is that after 12-24 hrs, a thick coat of Flex Coat has totally cured for me. good luck,         -tgades — Tony Gades                         You Flex           / University of Washington             your rod,       / GEOPHYSICS                                     /    / fish takes

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I agree with the other response that I saw to your message.  My rods dry hard in 12-24 hours and are not subject to abrasion.  Check your mixture ratios and be sure to mix *very well* (at least 100 stirs). Of course, varnish can be used, as can a couple of other finishes, but they all take multiple coats and are ultimately subject to cracking.   I suggest you stay with the flex coat. Good Luck                                               Dallas, TX                                               Ennis, MT

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In the past I have used Flex Coat to finish off the wraping on guides of the rods that I build.  My question is,  Is there any other coating or adhesive that anyone has used instead of the Flex Coat?  My problems with Flex Coat is that it takes three days for it to dry, and when it is dry the coating doesn’t appear to be very tough. By tough I mean it seems to abraid very easy.  If anyone has any suggestions or has used another method to finish off the threads plaese let me know.                             Paul Grabek

George E. Hoskin The flex-coat is what I have used mostly ("lite" for fly  rods and fresh water rods, "high build" for salt water or larger fresh water rods.  Either should set up in 24 hours.  Make sure you are mixing well (minimum of two minutes) before applying to rod.  If you need any Blanks, hardware or finishes give me a call (1-800-244-7744). I operate a small retail shop here in Maine.   Will be happy to ship you stuff that you need with a visa/mc  number over the phone. I’m always happy to shoot the breeze about flyfishing, tying flies or rod building, etc. Feel free to call 1-800-244-7744 ANYTIME it rings into house and shop both and I usually stau up late.

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Grabek) writes: In the past I have used Flex Coat to finish off the wraping on guides of the rods that I build.  My question is,  Is there any other coating or adhesive that anyone has used instead of the Flex Coat?  My problems with Flex Coat is that it takes three days for it to dry, and when it is dry the coating doesn’t appear to be very tough. By tough I mean it seems to abraid very easy.  If anyone has any suggestions or has used another method to finish off the threads plaese let me know.                            Paul Grabek

This problem was addressed in a series of posts some time back. The solution to your problem is as follows: i) be accurate in mixing 50/50 portions of the resin and hardener and even more important ii) mix thourougly, meaning for at least 2 minutes (or more). I’ve had the same problem in the past, but after following the suggestions of this pub, I’ve had no more problems. Changing to a different brand of epoxy probably won’t help….the principles remain the same. Good luck! Inge Solberg Houston, TX

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Can anyone tell me if there is a rodbuilding newsgroup? Thanks and tight line! Have I yeilded to temptation, but writing this and saying that NO…..I’m

I wish there was a rod building group as well. The satisfaction of making your own rod is great. I recently put a decorative wrap on a couple of my store bought rods and was looking for ideas. It doesn’t catch more fish, just that little extra. If your building a fly rod the saving are significance. The fly rod I built is a 25% saving compared to of the rack. You loose you warranty though, but I think it’s worth having a better rod with no warranty. Than a rod with a warranty and the desire for a better rod for next year.

Response:

<snip I wish there was a rod building group as well. The satisfaction of making your own rod is great. I recently put a decorative wrap on a couple of my store bought rods and was looking for ideas. It doesn’t catch more fish, just that little extra. If your building a fly rod the saving are significance. The fly rod I built is a 25% saving compared to of the rack. You loose you warranty though, but I think it’s worth having a better rod with no warranty. Than a rod with a warranty and the desire for a better rod for next year.

Don’t the manufacturers still back the blank?  Even for a reduced amount of time? Brian

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I wish there was a rod building group as well. The satisfaction of making your own rod is great. I recently put a decorative wrap on a couple of my store bought rods and was looking for ideas. It doesn’t catch more fish, just that little extra. If your building a fly rod the saving are significance. The fly rod I built is a 25% saving compared to of the rack. You loose you warranty though, but I think it’s worth having a better rod with no warranty. Than a rod with a warranty and the desire for a better rod for next year.

Go to http://www.virtualflyshop.com   there is a rod building group there. TL MC

Response:

Try this http://www.rodguild.com/cgi-bin/bbs/bbs.cgi?forum=chat

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I wish there was a rod building group as well. The satisfaction of making your own rod is great. I recently put a decorative wrap on a couple of my store bought rods and was looking for ideas. It doesn’t catch more fish, just that little extra. If your building a fly rod the saving are significance. The fly rod I built is a 25% saving compared to of the rack. You loose you warranty though, but I think it’s worth having a better rod with no warranty. Than a rod with a warranty and the desire for a better rod for next year. Go to http://www.virtualflyshop.com   there is a rod building group there. TL MC

Response:

Can anyone tell me if there is a rodbuilding newsgroup? Thanks and tight line!

Response:

Can anyone tell me if there is a rodbuilding newsgroup? Thanks and tight line!

There are several areas of interest for rod builders. Have a look at http://www.flyanglersonline.com  there is a complete course on ( graphite ) rod-building also try http://www.virtualflyshop.com  lots of info there as well. TL MC

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Can anyone tell me if there is a rodbuilding newsgroup? Thanks and tight line!

Have I yeilded to temptation, but writing this and saying that NO…..I’m

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fishndad, Can anyone tell me if there is a rodbuilding newsgroup? Thanks and tight line!

Not that I know of.  But I’ve seen several posts in this NG on that topic and have a hunch that, if you ask questions on the topic, you’ll get answers here. I’ve built a few rods — with gratifying results right from the first. Here are some misc. opinions, tips, whatever… 1) It ain’t difficult.  The lion’s share of what’s involved is being willing to work deliberately and pay attention to details. 2) You can build  EXCELLENT rods for a fraction of the "store bought" price. 3) If you do nothing else, get the Clemens catalog: Clemens 444 Schantz Road Allentown, PA  18104 The first few pages of the catalog are devoted to the essentials of rod building and the discussion is complete enough to see you through your first project.  As a bonus, it’s a pretty good source of blanks and components. 4) If you’re at all hesitant about building your first rod on a $200 blank, practice on a section of busted rod and/or start with a cheap blank. Wes Peterson LexCraft Data Services

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        Does anyone know the address and phone number of a catalog that sells rod building materials?  Are the guides supposed to go on top of the spine or on the opposite side?  My book says opposite side but most of my rods seem to be on top of the spine. Eric Howe

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In article    Does anyone know the address and phone number of a catalog that sells rod building materials?  Are the guides supposed to go on top of the spine or on the opposite side?  My book says opposite side but most of my rods seem to be on top of the spine. Eric Howe

Fly rods and large ocean rods have the guides opposite the spline. Others on the spline. Two great rod builder catalogs: Dale Clemens – (610) 395-5119   FAX 398-2580   —  Allentown, PA Angler’s Workshop – (360) 225-9445  FAX 225-8641  –  Woodland, WA Don Burns

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       Does anyone know the address and phone number of a catalog that sells rod building materials?  Are the guides supposed to go on top of the spine or on the opposite side?  My book says opposite side but most of my rods seem to be on top of the spine. Eric Howe

For a more thoughtful perspective on this subject, check out the web site for Manhattan Custom Tackle at www.fishdoc.com.  Phil Koenig, the proprietor, suggests a formula based on which way the blank curves, which makes sense.

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For rod building equipement try Cabella’s.  they have lots of stuff and good books too. Brian

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Try: Blue Ridge Rod Company 410-224-4072 FAX 410-224-4072 They deal solely with components for rod building. They do not sell finished rods etc.  They handle most of the name brand blanks (Sage etc.), Pacific Bay guides etc, Strubble, and so forth. You cannot go wrong.  Call or Fax them and they’ll send you a catalogue.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   Does anyone know the address and phone number of a catalog that sells rod building materials?  Are the guides supposed to go on top of the spine or on the opposite side?  My book says opposite side but most of my rods seem to be on top of the spine. Eric Howe For a more thoughtful perspective on this subject, check out the web site for Manhattan Custom Tackle at www.fishdoc.com.  Phil Koenig, the proprietor, suggests a formula based on which way the blank curves, which makes sense.

You might also want to check out the new web site of the Angler’s Workshop located in the graphite rod builder’s paradise of Woodland, Washington (home of G.Loomis, Talon and Lamiglass). Their URL is http://www.anglersworkshop.com Dave Weitl Seattle, WA http://www.halcyon.com/dweitl

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Try Custom Tackle Supply     2559 Hwy 41A S.     Shelbyville, TN 37160     (615) 684-6164 They have all the components, ship quickly, and are great guys who are very helpful.   A good book for rodbuilding:    The Custom Graphite Rod    by Skip Morris In it he gives advice on location of guides relative to spine — for fly rods on the side opposite the spine. The advice on Manhattan Tackle is also very good.  They respond quickly also and offer on-line and phone help. I just recently completed my first rod – a 3wt 7′6" and managed to catch some fish with it.  It didn’t fall apart and it looks great. Keep your fly dry, David

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If you have got this far, then I guess my subject line did the trick… Anyways, a brief story.  I had my vehicle broken into a little while ago.  After this I went to my insurance agent to get a contents package for my house (I share with others).  In doing so my great concerns were my library and my flytying cabinet!! So the point of this post hopefully is now evident.  Can you imagine going to you insurance agent and telling them that you just had $10,000 worth of feathers and fishing gear stolen, burned etc!!! Exactly, I’d believe you, but how many agents are FFers?? The solution I worked out with my agent was to make alist of everything and photograph it.  This is in my file at their office should anything happen.  In my case its covered under the general contents, however depending on your company it may have to be added as a rider.. Something to look into.. ATB Ian

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Ian I am a fly fishing nut and an insurance agent.  you sure are right about how much we collect over the years.  I would recommend not only taking pictures, but video tape if you can.  Keep the tape/pictures off site (in case of a fire/theft).  What ins. company would believe I have 6 jungle cock necks worth over $100 each (especillay if i smuggled them in from canada!).  I also recommend keeping a "receipt file" where most purchase receipts are keep in a manilla folder by year.  Then keep then in in a steel file cabinet.  save your master card receipts too. The most happy people with insurance claims are the ones who took a few minutes to document proof of ownership before any claim occurred.  Also, I would recommend buying "replacement cost coverage" for your policy.  It is usally just 10% more of the premium and is well worth it.  I say take my wife but don’t dare take my flyfishing equipment!  Any way, document as

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Hi gang: Since moving to Oregon I have been doing alot more fly fishing and I began to see the advantages of a drift boat or the like.  However Drift boats take up alot of space and require a trailer and cost$$$.  I have always enjoyed rafting and surf kyaking so it seemed logical to look at canoes.  What I need is something that can handle the equipment for fishing and camping for a few days and the ability to handle upto class III rapids. Am I dreaming?  Do any of you folks fish from a canoe and have some suggestions on what to look for.  I am willing to give up some initial stability for whitewater capability as most of the rivers I fish have at least a couple of class III and IV rapids. Thanx in advance! charles.

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Hey If you find one let me know..I love fishing bones in a canoe..use an electric troller… and I’m due for a new one.

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Canoes are great watercraft, but not the best fishing craft on streams.  I have a Mad River Explorer which I love, but it is quite difficult for a single person, i.e. stern paddler to manage the canoe in fast water and at the same time place the fisherman in the bow in optimal position to fish holding water.  This is particularly true if the canoe is loaded down with camping gear.  If fishing is you primary use, I would recommend a raft with rowing frame.  It takes up less space than a canoe or driftboat and you could probably pick up one at an end-of-season sale for little more than you’d spend for a canoe capable of negotiating whitewater safely.  On the other hand, if you mostly want to float and *stop* to fish likely areas, the canoe is faster and more fun.  Hope this helps.  One thing to remember is that you won’t stop at Class III if you’re like most of us.   Longspeer

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I fish from canoes quite a bit but in somewhat different waters (ozark streams). My  experience is  that flyfishing while solo paddling required a canoe with good tracking otherwise one ends up having to correct my course during almost every cast. However note that  to run class III rapids you will probably want a play boat with plenty of rocker unless you are exceptionally good on a canoe. I have no solution for this opposing requirements. For what is worth, I use a Mad River Malacite. RioSimpson.

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I used to have an Old Town Katahdin that I could stand in easily.  It has a 41" beam and is a good buy for the money!

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writes: Canoes are great watercraft, but not the best fishing craft on

streams.  I……Longspeer   I Have to Agree that a canoe of any type would be less than ideal for fishing in most faster water.  Rafts are much more stable and forgiving when your attention is on that HUGE trout you have on.  We used to count on going swimming if we took a canoe, and we were on pretty tame waters.  I usually fish from a drift boat, but have fished from rafts and, if set up right, they are great! Steve May

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Check out Aquaterra’s kayaks: Keowee, Keowee II and Gemini or Jocasse. I’ve had a Gemini, a two person 16′ kayak with a single 6′ opening, for six years or so. The big advantage over a canoe is that it’s less influenced by wind. It’s very stable and has a comfortable seating position. Downside: a little on the heavy side 65# and not very practical to carry overhead like a canoe but you can drag it just about over any type of terrain without worrying about damage. Glenn Lemke Manchester, VT

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I agre with Glenn on the advantage of a Sea Kayak over a canoe.  I have an Aquaterra Chinook, BUT–if you ever hook into the bow portion, and I’ve done it with a clumsey cast, you’re screwed!  For all around use in flatwater of 50acres or less–the float tube is probably the way to go.

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Charles: I’ve done considerable fishing from my Mad River "Courier" and it would be an excellent boat for what you want. It was designed to be an extended wilderness tripping boat. It is tough and handles rapids very well and has a semi-v bottom characteristic of Mad River canoes. The construction is of Royalex (or Mad River’s equivalent) so it will take a beating and keep on ticking. I use mine for camping, fishing and just tooting around. I would definitely buy another. Richard Warren Raleigh, NC

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I am the one that suggested a Mad Rive Courier canoe. I forgot to add that this is a solo canoe. Buy yourself one of those cheap short paddles about 24" long to correct your drift with. It is a lot easier than reaching for a long heavy paddle. Richard Warren Raleigh, NC

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