Question:

*** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com *** Hi, I’m new to fly fishing and just purchased a Fenwick Highlander HLF906 9′      6 weight in Australia. I checked Fenwick’s site but this rod isn’t mentioned. I’ve been told that it is a medium action rod, but as this is my first rod I have no idea. Any comments would be appreciated. ta, Gary  —–= Posted via Newsfeed.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeed.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== 100,000 Groups! – 19 Servers! – Unlimited Download! =—–

Response:

"Gary, but as this is my first rod I have no idea.

….then, that rod is anything you want it to be……

Response:

says… *** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com *** Hi, I’m new to fly fishing and just purchased a Fenwick Highlander HLF906 9′      6 weight in Australia. I checked Fenwick’s site but this rod isn’t mentioned. I’ve been told that it is a medium action rod, but as this is my first rod I have no idea. Any comments would be appreciated.

Hi Gary, I have an HighLander in an #8 for fishing saltwater and like its very firm action.  Impressed enough with the action (the hardware is a littly chintzy on the #8) to find out if they had smaller sizes especially a #4.  Where did you score your #6?  Sorry I can’t comment on the action of the lower weights, haven’t seen one yet. Steve

Response:

"Gary, but as this is my first rod I have no idea. ….then, that rod is anything you want it to be……

Wow. So deep (really deep), so fast. — TL, Tim I’d want mine to be a Hardy 7′9" 4wt.

Response:

"Gary, but as this is my first rod I have no idea. ….then, that rod is anything you want it to be…… Wow. So deep (really deep), so fast. — TL, Tim I’d want mine to be a Hardy 7′9" 4wt.

I wanted mine to be about 14 inches and praised by all women, but all I got was a broken Popcicle stick. Op

Response:

"Gary, but as this is my first rod I have no idea. ….then, that rod is anything you want it to be……

You write good words, John.  You write words to live by. "The moving finger writes; and, having writ, moves Wolfgang hey, why’s everybody pointing at ME?!      :(

Response:

You write good words, John.  You write words to live by. "The moving finger writes; and, having writ, moves

I’ve been sitting on variations on _that_ for days and you go and waste it in this thread! Steve (I did wonder just _who_ would crack first

Response:

You write good words, John.  You write words to live by. "The moving finger writes; and, having writ, moves I’ve been sitting on variations on _that_ for days and you go and waste it in this thread!

Ya takes yer opportunities where ya finds ‘em. Steve (I did wonder just _who_ would crack first

O.K., I’m easy.      :) Wolfgang

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O.K., I’m easy.      :)

Naw, just cheap…

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – "Gary, but as this is my first rod I have no idea. ….then, that rod is anything you want it to be…… Wow. So deep (really deep), so fast. — TL, Tim I’d want mine to be a Hardy 7′9" 4wt. I wanted mine to be about 14 inches and praised by all women,

She, glad… but all I got was a broken Popcicle stick.

Wee, bad Op

Not e-gad? Signed, Daysed and cunfoosed

Response:

says… Hi, I’m new to fly fishing and just purchased a Fenwick Highlander HLF906 9′      6 weight in Australia. I checked Fenwick’s site but this rod isn’t mentioned. I’ve been told that it is a medium action rod, but as this is my first rod I have no idea. Any comments would be appreciated.

Gary, While out looking for a spare SW outfit this morning I came across a 6wt in a shop I rarely visit.  Didn’t cast it but felt good in the hand – fast action by the feel, single foot guides of sufficient size and a half-decent looking reel seat (better than the 8wt). You could do a lot lot worse for the $s.   Steve (who has another $50 worth of tying materials for his trouble and no spare outfit … Next Shop – Lilydale

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Question:

Just thought I’d post this for a friend, hopefully this is allowed by all of you. She is selling her fly fishing ranch along with all her fly shop inventory. If any of you are interested take a look here; http://www.blackfireflyfishing.com Thanks!!

Response:

Just thought I’d post this for a friend, hopefully this is allowed by all of you. She is selling her fly fishing ranch along with all her fly shop inventory. If any of you are interested take a look here; http://www.blackfireflyfishing.com

Wolfgang workin in a coal mine, goin down down down

Response:

helping? …you should rename the post: "helping rip-off the ignorant"…the prices are a joke,,she must be giving you a cut of the hefty product..id offer you 30cents on the dollar..like any other "liquidation"…so go play in the middle of the River..your bargain aint welcome here bubbye

Just thought I’d post this for a friend, hopefully this is allowed by all of you. She is selling her fly fishing ranch along with all her fly shop inventory. If any of you are interested take a look here; http://www.blackfireflyfishing.com Wolfgang workin in a coal mine, goin down down down

— Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

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Question:

I’m still looking for some help to get Fly fishing america magazine, anyone can help me! I got the last one with the 58 travel rod review, but i would like to get the other one that will come out! please contact me directly if you can help me! Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com. Up to 100 minutes free! http://www.keen.com

Response:

As some of you know i can’t get that nice magazine in Canada, some nice fellow board member sent me the last one with the review of the 58 travel rod.

Bob, here is the web page for the magazine www.flyfishamerica.com/ and I sent Bill Battles email suggesting he allow the folks in the boonies an opportunity to subscribe (or in my case prescribe) to his fine magazine. Maybe if enough of us do ask, we might be able to convince them to mail us the latest issues?  Who knows? Padishar Creel

Response:

Fly fishing america magazine…. Thanks Padishar, They seem a bunch of nice folks tough! I’m trying to find someone who can send me copy regularly as they came out!  Too bad we can’t subscribe ‘caus i would. A canadian in distress! Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com. Up to 100 minutes free! http://www.keen.com

Response:

As it happens, I’m planning to head down to the shop this afternoon.   If it’s there, I’ll get it for you.

Sorry, nothing new.   The "Travel Rod" issue was the only issue in the shop. Joe F.

Response:

Thanks for your effort Joe, Be sure  to let me know when the next issue comes out! Thanks again! Robert Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com. Up to 100 minutes free! http://www.keen.com

Response:

As some of you know i can’t get that nice magazine in Canada, some nice fellow board member sent me the last one with the review of the 58 travel rod. Is the new one out yet if so, would somebody be kind enough to send me two copies! I’ll cover the shipping! Please get in touch with me

Your timing is very good Robert.   As it happens, I’m planning to head down to the shop this afternoon.   If it’s there, I’ll get it for you. Joe F.

Response:

As some of you know i can’t get that nice magazine in Canada, some nice fellow board member sent me the last one with the review of the 58 travel rod. Is the new one out yet if so, would somebody be kind enough to send me two copies! I’ll cover the shipping! Please get in touch with me Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com. Up to 100 minutes free! http://www.keen.com

Response:

Question:

Thanks Possibly I can get a answer from IGFA before we go. I can almost see it going either way – Actually I guess its not very different from the way most tube flies are constructed since the head and front fly is mounted on the shock tippet. On my tubes I am using 90# wire with the 2nd tube between the 2 tandem hooks and then attaching the leading hook to the shock with a cinch knot and placing  a foam head and the leading tube mounted on the shock tippet. I am using owner AKI’s so the snelling doesn’t work – they don’t have turned up eyes like the octopus hooks he’s using. He’s not really planning on conforming to IGFA anyways and is planning to use 3-4′ shocks. I was just intrigued by the simplicity of his rigs. On the landing: On all my gear trips the standard has been to "leader" a billfish to boat to be released or brought in for pictures, but on standard gear the leader is like 10′ long.  I am planning to use about 4′-5′ total leader including class and shock. I seem to recall reading somewhere, or being told by a captain, that a billfish was "caught" or the "landing phase starts" when either the leader or class tippet went inside the first guide or something. After that the mate could leader the fish  to control it while gaffing, netting, billing  or releasing. Reeling down to the class shouldn’t be a major problem, but trying to "leader" a billfish at 3′-4′ sounds very dangerous. On most of my other offshore flyfishing experiences we were either gaffing or netting the fish so, it wasn’t much of an issue using very short leaders. I hope to get to read an actual IGFA book this weekend – maybe it will clarify the specifics. Thanks again for the info.

  Hello   I also submitted this question to the Igfa site under construction but I   don’t know if they are set up to give responses yet.     I was wondering what the IGFA states concerning Shock tippets and tandem   flies.     It’s my understanding that the shock tippet length can be up to 12" to the   eye of the leading hook on a tandem fly and the max distance between tandem   hooks on a fly is 6" eye to eye.     1. Does the shock tippet require a separate connection at the fly or can the   shock leader be snelled to the first hook then the tag end of the same line   be attached to the back hook?  That would total 18" of the same shock   tippet – class to trailing hook.   If I understand what you mean, no.  The best rule of thumb is to use tackle that   won’t raise eyebrows, i.e., "usual and customary" (and taint a record with the   "technical record" charge).     A friend of mine is rigging some flies like this for Billfish.  Although the   fly would only have "one shot" (until the shock tippet was damaged) the   connection is very clean, straight running, and seems to give an extra 6" of   shock.   See above.       Also I have another nagging basic question.   2. When is a fish considered "caught" on fly gear – so someone else can   touch the line or leader  and assist in the landing or releasing the fish.   Is the when the leader goes in the rod tip? the class line, the shock?   something else?   Absolutely no touching the leader before the fish is "landed" and only in   gaffing or netting.  If someone else helps before the fish is brought to gaff,   DQ.   The above is solely my opinion, based on my knowledge only (I’ve read the rules,   and have only a passing knowledge, I don’t fish for record/trophy anymore).  If   you are going for record, you captain should have a working and ready knowledge,   as well as a copy of the rulebook to refer to.  If you are going on a bareboat   for record, get a copy of the rules from the IGFA (they are in Ft. Lauderdale –   561 area code).   HTH?   R

Response:

Thanks   Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online?   I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction   Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages?   Thanks     Google turned up this one:   http://www.wolfffishing.com/ingamfisasru.html   —   Charlie…

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello I also summited this question to the Igfa site under construction but I don’t know if they are set up to give responces yet. I was wondering what the IGFA states concerning Shock tippets and tandem flies. It’s my understanding that the shock tippet length can be up to 12" to the eye of the leading hook on a tandem fly and the max distance between tandem hooks on a fly is 6" eye to eye. 1. Does the shock tippet require a separate connection at the fly or can the shock leader be snelled to the first hook then the tag end of the same line be attached to the back hook?  That would total 18" of the same shock tippet – class to trailing hook.

If I understand what you mean, no.  THe best rule of thumb is to use tackle that won’t raise eyebrows, i.e., "usual and customary" (and taint a record with the "technical record" charge). A friend of mine is rigging some flies like this for Billfish.  Although the fly would only have "one shot" (until the shock tippet was damaged) the connection is very clean, straight running, and seems to give an extra 6" of shock.

See above. Also I have another nagging basic question. 2. When is a fish considered "caught" on fly gear – so someone else can touch the line or leader  and assist in the landing or releasing the fish. Is the when the leader goes in the rod tip? the class line, the shock? something else?

Absolutely no touching the leader before the fish is "landed" and only in gaffing or netting.  If someone else helps before the fish is brought to gaff, DQ. The above is solely my opinion, based on my knowledge only (I’ve read the rules, and have only a passing knowledge, I don’t fish for record/trophy anymore).  If you are going for record, you captain should have a working and ready knowledge, as well as a copy of the rulebook to refer to.  If you are going on a bareboat for record, get a copy of the rules from the IGFA (they are in Ft. Lauderdale – 561 area code). HTH? R

Response:

Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

Response:

Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

No, but rule did you need info on? R

Response:

Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

Google turned up this one: http://www.wolfffishing.com/ingamfisasru.html — Charlie…

Response:

Hello I also summited this question to the Igfa site under construction but I don’t know if they are set up to give responces yet. I was wondering what the IGFA states concerning Shock tippets and tandem flies. It’s my understanding that the shock tippet length can be up to 12" to the eye of the leading hook on a tandem fly and the max distance between tandem hooks on a fly is 6" eye to eye. 1. Does the shock tippet require a separate connection at the fly or can the shock leader be snelled to the first hook then the tag end of the same line be attached to the back hook?  That would total 18" of the same shock tippet – class to trailing hook. A friend of mine is rigging some flies like this for Billfish.  Although the fly would only have "one shot" (until the shock tippet was damaged) the connection is very clean, straight running, and seems to give an extra 6" of shock. Also I have another nagging basic question. 2. When is a fish considered "caught" on fly gear – so someone else can touch the line or leader  and assist in the landing or releasing the fish. Is the when the leader goes in the rod tip? the class line, the shock? something else? Thanks for any insights you might have on these questions Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

No, but rule did you need info on? R

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Question:

Hi can anyone help me with some  locations to flyfish in the Tahoe area.  I know there is alot of water and theres got to be a  few hot fly fishing spots. What flies? Fly shops? any thing else that might be helpful? float tubes on the lake? Thanks Great White Thanks for all thoughs who replied to my northerns and tigers questions landed me my first tiger 36"  17 pounds. "Got to quite wishin need to go fishin" Jimmy buffett

Response:

Hi-    Unless you know the area very well, Lake Tahoe is a poor flyfishing destination. South of the Lake is the East Carson River and flowing out of the lake on the North end is the Truckee River. These are the two premier rivers in the area. Currently the Carson is fishing well and the Truckee is blown out.    -Ralph – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi can anyone help me with some  locations to flyfish in the Tahoe area.  I know there is alot of water and theres got to be a  few hot fly fishing spots. What flies? Fly shops? any thing else that might be helpful? float tubes on the lake? Thanks Great White Thanks for all thoughs who replied to my northerns and tigers questions landed me my first tiger 36"  17 pounds. "Got to quite wishin need to go fishin" Jimmy buffett

Ralph Cutter, California School of Flyfishing. http://www.flyline.com

Response:

Ralph is right about the Tahoe area.  The only change is that the Truckee downstream from Tahoe should be improving shortly.  The flows were just decreased today and hopefully will be stable for a while. Also try the Little Truckee, along with the handfull of small creeks in the North Tahoe area.  Good luck. Dick

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Question:

Anyone have an idea of the value of a 1977 Seamaster Tarpon Model flyreel. Anti-reverse, left ahnd retrieve.Thanks. Jack.

Response:

Anyone have an idea of the value of a 1977 Seamaster Tarpon Model flyreel. Anti-reverse, left ahnd retrieve.Thanks. Jack.

Maybe $500 to $1000? I am not really sure,but they are hard to get. If you advertise it in the Miami Harold right now, it’s peak tarpon season, you might get more? Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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I’m not sure of the model and year of the reel you have, but I not seen a Seamaster under $1,100 in a long time down here. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone have an idea of the value of a 1977 Seamaster Tarpon Model flyreel. Anti-reverse, left ahnd retrieve.Thanks. Jack. Maybe $500 to $1000? I am not really sure,but they are hard to get. If you advertise it in the Miami Harold right now, it’s peak tarpon season, you might get more? Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Response:

Bill- Is this an "S" handle reel or the one with the flat plate with the single knob mounted directly to it? If it is the latter and in v/g to exc condition, you might see upwards of $1500 for it. In lesser condition, considerably less. If it is an "S" handle, they are highly collectible in good condition and could bring $1500 to $2000. Good luck. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone have an idea of the value of a 1977 Seamaster Tarpon Model flyreel. Anti-reverse, left ahnd retrieve.Thanks. Jack. Maybe $500 to $1000? I am not really sure,but they are hard to get. If you advertise it in the Miami Harold right now, it’s peak tarpon season, you might get more? Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Response:

Bill — Try contacting Bob Berger, owner of Bonefish Bob’s, a flyfishing store in Islamorada, FL. Bonefish Bob specializes in used saltwater flyfishing equipment and is an expert in Seamaster reels. Sorry, I don’t have his phone number handy, but I’m sure you can get it from information. BobE. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Bill- Is this an "S" handle reel or the one with the flat plate with the single knob mounted directly to it? If it is the latter and in v/g to exc condition, you might see upwards of $1500 for it. In lesser condition, considerably less. If it is an "S" handle, they are highly collectible in good condition and could bring $1500 to $2000. Good luck. Anyone have an idea of the value of a 1977 Seamaster Tarpon Model flyreel. Anti-reverse, left ahnd retrieve.Thanks. Jack. Maybe $500 to $1000? I am not really sure,but they are hard to get. If you advertise it in the Miami Harold right now, it’s peak tarpon season, you might get more? Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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Question:

I’m going to try shad fishing this year in Mass.  Any recommendations for flies to tie?   Any other tips would also be appreciated.   _Rich_

Response:

  I’m going to try shad fishing this year in Mass.  Any   recommendations   for flies to tie?   Any other tips would also be appreciated.     _Rich_ Last year at the Merrimack River I had good luck with small clousers.  I can’t honestly say I was trying to catch just shad, but that’s what took the fly.  The most important aspect of this type of fishing is getting the fly down to where the fish are, any fly reasonably close in imitation will work as long as it gets down to the fish.  In a strong current you’re going to need a weighted line such as a Teeny 350, let the current and the line do the work for you. Don

Response:

Last year at the Merrimack River I had good luck with small clousers.  I can’t honestly say I was trying to catch just shad, but that’s what took the fly.  The most important aspect of this type of fishing is getting the fly down to where the fish are, any fly reasonably close in imitation will work as long as it gets down to the fish.  In a strong current you’re going to need a weighted line such as a Teeny 350, let the current and the line do the work for you. Don

I’ve been shad fishing the past two weekends on the Roanoke River in NC and have had the best success with 2-1/0 white/yellow clousers.  Everyone says to go small(6-4), but I did much better with the larger flies.  Granted, these are Hickory shad, but they did seem to prefer the larger fly.  I also had a lot of success with a gold or silver ’spoon’  fly(braided mylar coated with epoxy). The visibility in the Roanoke hasn’t been great, and they really seemed to like the flash.  -William Ivey   Raleigh, NC

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Question:

I would advise against wrapping any guide that’s bigger than you.  -AR

Response:

If you use no color preserver, you take away the option of ever replacing a guide if you need to.  There is no way to remove the wrap without destroying the blank.

Bad advice here!  It is actually quite easy to remove a guide wrapped with non-NCP thread.  Done correctly, there will be no damage to the blank.  Simply cut through the wrap and epoxy with a single edge razor.  Slice along the guide foot to help avoid nicking the blank. Once you get started, simply slip your fingernail under the wrap and it will peel off.  No problem. I think your mass production types are more interested in eliminating a step from the manufacturing process (properly applied and allowed to dry, color preserver would add about 24 hours) than blending the color of the thread into the blank.

Actually, I think most manufacturers use non-NCP because most buyers prefer the look. You are correct however that the wrap will be stronger when the epoxy finish is applied without color preserver.  OTOH, I’ve been told that when properly done, the wrap alone should provide all the strength required to hold the guide on the rod and you should not rely on the finish to make up for a loose wrap.

It is true that you should never rely on the finish to make up for a loose wrap, but then you would always use a finish, so whether the thread wrap alone would be strong enough over time to hold the guide is academic.  Go for the strongest wrap you can and use non-NCP thread except for trim rings. Lyman Lyman G. Hughes Dallas, TX Ennis, MT

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Bad advice here!  It is actually quite easy to remove a guide wrapped with non-NCP thread.  Done correctly, there will be no damage to the blank.  Simply cut through the wrap and epoxy with a single edge razor.  Slice along the guide foot to help avoid nicking the blank. Once you get started, simply slip your fingernail under the wrap and it will peel off.  No problem. Actually, I think most manufacturers use non-NCP because most buyers prefer the look. It is true that you should never rely on the finish to make up for a loose wrap, but then you would always use a finish, so whether the thread wrap alone would be strong enough over time to hold the guide is academic.  Go for the strongest wrap you can and use non-NCP thread except for trim rings.

Great post, Lyman. My 15 years of building custom fly rods for myself, others, and commercially confirm everything you’ve said. In my rod repairs, I have never encountered a situation where blank damage has occurred when removing a guide, even on rods that had been wrapped 25 years ago. It just takes care and patience. I use standard thread with no color preservers on 90% of the rods I build. The bottom line is this technique is the best way to obtain a wrap that closely matches the color of the blank. This "stealthiness" has invaded the fly rod industry. Just take a look at Sage’s new SP line or Winston’s IM6 rods and you’ll see why the process looks so good. Ryan

Response:

If you use no color preserver, you take away the option of ever replacing a guide if you need to.  There is no way to remove the wrap without destroying the blank. Bad advice here!  It is actually quite easy to remove a guide wrapped with non-NCP thread.  Done correctly, there will be no damage to the blank.  Simply cut through the wrap and epoxy with a single edge razor.  Slice along the guide foot to help avoid nicking the blank. Once you get started, simply slip your fingernail under the wrap and it will peel off.  No problem.

Are you kidding?  What kind of "epoxy" are you using?  When applied without color preserver the finish soaks through the thread and comes into direct contact with the blank.  I have encountered no epoxy that will "peel off" of anything. Every time I’ve tried what you mention, the thread/finish combination has turned into a solid mass.  I’ve tried exactly what you describe and cut along the guide foot with a razor.  When I pulled off the guide (with much effort) the rest of the wrap/finish stayed right where it was and left a nice solid wrap with a trench gug out where the guide foot had been.

Response:

I used straight epoxy with no color preserve and had my rod spinner break down during the night. I woke up wih big bellies in all my wraps. I just cut them off fairly easily with a rasor and re-wrapped the whole rod. It wasn’t a big project to remove the old wrappings.

Response:

Quoting "DavidC.Benjamin"<dcb from a message in rec.outdoors.fishing.fly    <I am seeking advice on the use of non-NCP thread for    <guide wrapping on a rod I am building.  Up to this point    <I have used only NCP threads and have been very satisfied    <with the results when finished. David – If you use non-NCP thread withoput applying color preserver it will become somewhat transparent when you apply the rod finish.  How transparent will depend on the color thread used.  If you look at some  factory rods its easy to see which brands do not use color preserver as the guidefeet show thru the wraps.  If you use color preserver the non-NCP thread will have a sparkley coloring as opposed to the flatter colors of the NCP thread.  It’s really personal preference which you prefer more. Jim Carlisle

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I am seeking advice on the use of non-NCP thread for guide wrapping on a rod I am building.  Up to this point I have used only NCP threads and have been very satisfied with the results when finished.   Recently, I bought a Thomas & Thomas Horizon blank and it is a dark blue in color.  I plan to wrap it using a dark blue colored thread (Navy Blue) with light blue and gold highlights.  However, when ordering the threads I found that the Navy Blue (Guderod #066) does not come in NCP.  I am worried that when coated it will become transparent — which I definitely do not want.  Skip Morris’s book says that if you do a trial wrap and soak it with water, you can see what it will look like when coated.  I did so and it was not transparent and I am satisfied with the way it looks and hopefully will look when coated. Question: has anyone out there had any experience with this "problem" and will it really remain non-transparent when finished?  I hope to wrap the rod within the next few days, finish it this weekend and fish it on the 27th or 28th. As you can imagine I hope to get feedback "very" soon. Thanks in advance! Keep your fly dry, David p.s. Lyman, are you out there?

I think many of the major fly rod manufacturers use non-NCP thread with no color preserver. This is not the way they finish those cool convetional salt water sticks. You will get a transparent result with no color preserver on standard thread. This gives them a clean look with the thread blending with the blank and also allows the epoxy to penetrate the thread better to bond with the blank. I have been selling rod building supplies for over 30 years and have heard almost every story imaginable. If someone has better info I will not be shocked as I have been wrong before. William Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am seeking advice on the use of non-NCP thread for guide wrapping on a rod I am building.  Up to this point I have used only NCP threads and have been very satisfied with the results when finished.   Recently, I bought a Thomas & Thomas Horizon blank and it is a dark blue in color.  I plan to wrap it using a dark blue colored thread (Navy Blue) with light blue and gold highlights.  However, when ordering the threads I found that the Navy Blue (Guderod #066) does not come in NCP.  I am worried that when coated it will become transparent — which I definitely do not want.  Skip Morris’s book says that if you do a trial wrap and soak it with water, you can see what it will look like when coated.  I did so and it was not transparent and I am satisfied with the way it looks and hopefully will look when coated. Question: has anyone out there had any experience with this "problem" and will it really remain non-transparent when finished?  I hope to wrap the rod within the next few days, finish it this weekend and fish it on the 27th or 28th. As you can imagine I hope to get feedback "very" soon. Thanks in advance! Keep your fly dry, David p.s. Lyman, are you out there? I think many of the major fly rod manufacturers use non-NCP thread with no color preserver. This is not the way they finish those cool convetional salt water sticks. You will get a transparent result with no color preserver on standard thread. This gives them a clean look with the thread blending with the blank and also allows the epoxy to penetrate the thread better to bond with the blank. I have been selling rod building supplies for over 30 years and have heard almost every story imaginable. If someone has better info I will not be shocked as I have been wrong before. William Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA

But… If you use no color preserver, you take away the option of ever replacing a guide if you need to.  There is no way to remove the wrap without destroying the blank. I think your mass production types are more interested in eliminating a step from the manufacturing process (properly applied and allowed to dry, color preserver would add about 24 hours) than blending the color of the thread into the blank. You are correct however that the wrap will be stronger when the epoxy finish is applied without color preserver.  OTOH, I’ve been told that when properly done, the wrap alone should provide all the strength required to hold the guide on the rod and you should not rely on the finish to make up for a loose wrap.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am seeking advice on the use of non-NCP thread for guide wrapping on a rod I am building.  Up to this point I have used only NCP threads and have been very satisfied with the results when finished.   Recently, I bought a Thomas & Thomas Horizon blank and it is a dark blue in color.  I plan to wrap it using a dark blue colored thread (Navy Blue) with light blue and gold highlights.  However, when ordering the threads I found that the Navy Blue (Guderod #066) does not come in NCP.  I am worried that when coated it will become transparent — which I definitely do not want.  Skip Morris’s book says that if you do a trial wrap and soak it with water, you can see what it will look like when coated.  I did so and it was not transparent and I am satisfied with the way it looks and hopefully will look when coated. Question: has anyone out there had any experience with this "problem" and will it really remain non-transparent when finished?  I hope to wrap the rod within the next few days, finish it this weekend and fish it on the 27th or 28th. As you can imagine I hope to get feedback "very" soon. Thanks in advance! Keep your fly dry, David p.s. Lyman, are you out there? I think many of the major fly rod manufacturers use non-NCP thread with no color preserver. This is not the way they finish those cool convetional salt water sticks. You will get a transparent result with no color preserver on standard thread. This gives them a clean look with the thread blending with the blank and also allows the epoxy to penetrate the thread better to bond with the blank. I have been selling rod building supplies for over 30 years and have heard almost every story imaginable. If someone has better info I will not be shocked as I have been wrong before. William Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA

I always use color preservative to provide the ability to replace the guide (it WILL happen) and to seal the underwrap/blank wrap. In addition I find that the application of epoxy is easier (resulting in a much better finish) since I don’t have to hunt for gaps in the thread (the preserver fills it in). Of course as you say there are a million stroies and a million ways …. "The true angler is always content to fish alone" Brian Di Carlo

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Using that dark thread on a similarly-colored blank, you shouldn’t have any trouble.  I build a lot of salt-water "standup" tuna rods on black Seeker blanks, and use medium blue non-NCP A thread for base wraps.  It works fine–as does the even lighter grey "gunmetal" thread I’m now using on a pair of Shakespeare Ugly Sticks.  Just be careful to use enough coats of color preserver, and soak all of the wrap.  I usually use 3 coats half-strength and 2 coats full strength (Clemens "Brilliance" brand) before applying the epoxy coats.  If you see "bleed-through" with the color preserver that doesn’t disappear when the preserver dries, you have a problem.  Redo that wrap.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I am seeking advice on the use of non-NCP thread for guide wrapping on a rod I am building.  Up to this point I have used only NCP threads and have been very satisfied with the results when finished.   Recently, I bought a Thomas & Thomas Horizon blank and it is a dark blue in color.  I plan to wrap it using a dark blue colored thread (Navy Blue) with light blue and gold highlights.  However, when ordering the threads I found that the Navy Blue (Guderod #066) does not come in NCP.  I am worried that when coated it will become transparent — which I definitely do not want.  Skip Morris’s book says that if you do a trial wrap and soak it with water, you can see what it will look like when coated.  I did so and it was not transparent and I am satisfied with the way it looks and hopefully will look when coated. Question: has anyone out there had any experience with this "problem" and will it really remain non-transparent when finished?  I hope to wrap the rod within the next few days, finish it this weekend and fish it on the 27th or 28th. As you can imagine I hope to get feedback "very" soon. Thanks in advance! Keep your fly dry, David p.s. Lyman, are you out there?

There is a very good chance that the thread will become somewhat transparent when you apply epoxy.  The way to solve this problem is to use colour preserver.  One of the best brands available in my opinion is U40 Color Lock.   I think you will be pleased with regular thread over NCP thread.  This type of thread has stronger highlights when used with color preserver, and I think looks much better than NCP.  As well, an added bonus is that Regular thread is a little stronger than NCP as well it is not as porous, therefore, you will not have the same bubble problems that may occur with NCP. Ian Scott Wishbone Custom Rods http://www.headwaters.com/wishbone

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I am seeking advice on the use of non-NCP thread for guide wrapping on a rod I am building.  Up to this point I have used only NCP threads and have been very satisfied with the results when finished.   Recently, I bought a Thomas & Thomas Horizon blank and it is a dark blue in color.  I plan to wrap it using a dark blue colored thread (Navy Blue) with light blue and gold highlights.  However, when ordering the threads I found that the Navy Blue (Guderod #066) does not come in NCP.  I am worried that when coated it will become transparent — which I definitely do not want.  Skip Morris’s book says that if you do a trial wrap and soak it with water, you can see what it will look like when coated.  I did so and it was not transparent and I am satisfied with the way it looks and hopefully will look when coated. Question: has anyone out there had any experience with this "problem" and will it really remain non-transparent when finished?  I hope to wrap the rod within the next few days, finish it this weekend and fish it on the 27th or 28th. As you can imagine I hope to get feedback "very" soon. Thanks in advance! Keep your fly dry, David p.s. Lyman, are you out there?

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Question:

I am wondering if there are any tricks to tying backing onto my reel then to my floating fly line?  It seems pretty straightforward, but I have noticed alot of talk about different fishermen’s reliance upon and use of backing. What’s the process.  Thanks for any troubleshooting tips.

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I am wondering if there are any tricks to tying backing onto my reel then to my floating fly line?  It seems pretty straightforward, but I have noticed alot of talk about different fishermen’s reliance upon and use of backing. What’s the process.  Thanks for any troubleshooting tips.

You should ask this in rec.outdoors.fishing.fly, it will likely touch off a major discussion! First off, you definitely need backing, unless you plan to spend your time catching 4" trout that are 15ft away. What you use as backing is another matter. Some guys like to lay out $$$ for custom designed fly rod backing – I prefer to use an el cheapo alternative, black dacron line. It costs about 1/4 as much as real backing and is pretty much the same thing. The backing knot is another question entirely. The folks in r.o.f.f will talk about everything from nail knots at the high end down to modified versions of a sheet bend / figure eight combination called a backing knot. Best to do some reading at the library to see what’s the best for your purposes (ie what can you be bothered tying, and how important you think it is to your type of fishing). Good luck Rod

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Question:

Hans T.H. Beernink, Department of Biochemistry, University of Vermont

<snip: LOTS of good golden trout info deleted…   Ob Philosophical rantings (optional):   It seems that there is quite a mystique about the California golden   trout.  Californians like to say that it is the only trout truely native   to CA.  I know that most of the Western waters that can support goldens were   stocked with Kern goldens at one time or another (including those in Wyoming,   Colorado, and Utah), and the DFG has been hatching goldens at the foot of   Mt. Whitney for years..  There is also some debate over the different strains   of golden, in particular the small rosy fish found in the little Kern.     I’ve also heard that the golden is merely a uniquely colored rainbow, and   in fact is not a different species at all.  Whatever your angle on the   golden, it doesn’t really matter.  It’s a beautiful little fish, and fun   to catch.  Unfortunately, it’s also one of the most sensitive of the   trout.  The golden requires very clean water that is relatively   pristine.  There are lots of lakes and streams that at one time or   another held goldens, but are now incapable.  Between the effects of acid   rain, garbage from campers and hikers, and the cattle industry’s use of   the high meadows in the golden trout’s habitat, the trout are showing   signs of decline.  The fish are smaller, probably due to the lack of   food, and the waters capable of supporting goldens are fewer in number.     Let’s hope the trout are still here in a hundred years……       Best regards,   Hans   Greetings, Hans, and THANK YOU for the excellent post on golden trout.     Another problem besides habitat degredation, which DFG & others are finally realizing, has to do with the introduction of brook trout by the DFG  into Sierra lakes:  For years I have seen the brook trout spread from these lakes into the streams and rivers below them, displacing the golden (and rainbow) trout as they went.  Now finally the DFG has that "limit plus 5" or some-such program allowing you to keep an additional five brook trout beyond       the regular bag limit.  I have long made it a practice to never keep anything BUT brook trout to eat when a fresh meal of fish is in order. (Yummy, now where did I put ‘ole Mark Vinsel’s trout burrito recipe?)  In fact, I needed to buy new topo maps this year because my old ones were getting too beat up to read any more, and I was suprised to read in my new USDA Forest Service topo map the following:   "FISHING"   <SEVERAL PARAGRAPHS DELETED   "Brook trout are the most common fish in the wilderness.  They are easy to   catch and provide good trail-side meals.  A new fishing regulation allows   a larger bag -limit of small brook trout than in previous seasons!   Harvesting brook trout can improve angling by keeping the population in   check and reducing the numbers of small fish." I sure hope it isn’t too late – brook trout really do a number on the populations of golden and rainbow.     Thanks again for your informative post. Tight lines and happy trails!   -Mark Anderson

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In this newsgroup about two weeks ago there was a thread about goldens and we decided that there was no such thing as a golden over 16" in CA. In montano there are places to catch big goldens but its not the same as a CA golden.

Really.  Ralph Cutter claims in the "Sierra Trout Guide" that the California record for the Volcano Creek Golden Trout is 9 pounds, 8 ounces. That must have been one fat fish. — John Fereira Isis Distributed Systems  Ithaca, NY

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<snip :   :   Greetings, Hans, and THANK YOU for the excellent post on golden trout. :   :     Another problem besides habitat degredation, which DFG & others are : finally realizing, has to do with the introduction of brook trout by the : DFG  into Sierra lakes:  For years I have seen the brook trout spread from : these : lakes into the streams and rivers below them, displacing the golden (and : rainbow) trout as they went.  Now finally the DFG has that "limit plus 5" : or some-such program allowing you to keep an additional five brook trout : beyond       the regular bag limit.  I have long made it a practice to : never keep anything BUT brook trout to eat when a fresh meal of fish is in : order. (Yummy, now where did I put ‘ole Mark Vinsel’s trout burrito : recipe?)  In fact, I needed to buy new topo maps this year because my : old ones were getting too beat up to read any more, and I was suprised to : read in my new USDA Forest Service topo map the following: :   <snip :   : I sure hope it isn’t too late – brook trout really do a number on the : populations of golden and rainbow.   this is, of course, true.  Unfortunately, the DFG is responsible for the decline in "native" golden populations in the high sierras.  The brookie is not a native fish in the west.  It was, as you pointed out, introduced by the DFG, and only recently have they tried to make ammends.  In fact, some of the branches of the Kern were "poisoned" in a forced fish kill in an effort to replant the native goldens.  I don’t know if this was the correct approach, but they seem to be trying. Best regards, Hans — "The worst monotonous drone coming from a lectern or the most eye-splitting textbook written in turgid English is nothing in comparison to the psychological Sahara that starts right in your bedroom and spurns the horizon."         -Joseph Brodsky, from "In praise of Boredom"          delivered as a commencement address at Dartmouth College. Hans T.H. Beernink, Department of Biochemistry, University of Vermont

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<Regarding Golden Trout The biggest fish will be in rich lakes with limited spawning access. Lakes directly in a cirque receive sterile water, while lakes a step or two down in the chain receive water enriched by the lakes or meadows above. Lakes with more shallows and weedbeds are richest, though there has to be some deep water to protect against winterkill. The final criteria is the lack of a trail. The ideal would be a lake two steps down the chain, long and narrow, backing up into a meadow, with a single feeder stream with a falls a hundred yards above and below.  

Another reason Goldens are typically found in a chain of lakes is that, unlike cutthroat which like to spawn in inlets, Goldens spawn in lake outlets.  If there is not a lake below, the fry will wash downstream. With a chain of lakes, the fry will wash into a lower lake, where they can grow a few years, and then swim back up to their parents’ lake. — -Wayne Trzyna

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The biggest fish will be in rich lakes with limited spawning access. What do you mean?  Goldens spawn in streams.

I suspect he’s talking about the tendency of fish to overpopulate and stunt in high lakes with abundant spawning habitat but limited food. I’ve found lakes where this has happened to Goldens, as well as Cutts, and especially Brookies.  Since the original poster was looking for a trophy, he should avoid lakes with prolific spawning, unless the food supply can support it, which is rare in the types of high lakes in which Goldens are found. — -Wayne Trzyna

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All this talk about Golden trout raises another issue: patterns. What are some patterns with which folks have caught Goldens? I read somewhere that Goldens do not eat smaller fish and therefor won’t chase streamers.  Can anyone contradict this?   I personally have caught them on variaous small nymphs and dries.  At one lake, small attractors were especially effective, like a size 18 humpy. — -Wayne Trzyna

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Although it has been a long time ago–maybe 30 years–I fished one of the "sterile" lakes.  It was on the trail from Kearsearge pass to Glenn pass. Although you could swear there were no fish in it, all of a sudden, I couldn’t keep the fish from hitting the fly on the surface.  They would chase each other to get to it.  That lasted for about half an hour, and then, the lake appeare dead again. I should point out that this was in the early days of my fly fishing and sinking the fly never entered my mind. William Buchman

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: All this talk about Golden trout raises another issue: patterns. : What are some patterns with which folks have caught Goldens? : I read somewhere that Goldens do not eat smaller fish and therefor : won’t chase streamers.  Can anyone contradict this?   : I personally have caught them on variaous small nymphs and dries.  At one : lake, small attractors were especially effective, like a size 18 humpy. I’ve found that goldens in the high sierras are generally opportunists.   i.e., the high sierras have relatively little to offer in the way of mayflies/caddis/stoneflies etc., so the trout will generally eat whatever comes thier way.  Most dries will raise fish, but the bigger ones tend to like bushy attractors and terrestrials.  Try a small ‘hopper or a cricket.  Streamers *do* work too, but you generally need to put in right in front of the fish.  Smaller, flashy streamers like the micky finn or grey ghost work.  Hey, what about a wet fly?  The parmachene belle is one of my favorites, and works very well for larger goldens…. Best regards, Hans — "The worst monotonous drone coming from a lectern or the most eye-splitting textbook written in turgid English is nothing in comparison to the psychological Sahara that starts right in your bedroom and spurns the horizon."         -Joseph Brodsky, from "In praise of Boredom"          delivered as a commencement address at Dartmouth College. Hans T.H. Beernink, Department of Biochemistry, University of Vermont

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We hope to seek out California’s golden trout (catch & release) but are looking for a trophy sized fish.  We have combed the Sierra– catching goldens from 6 to 16 inches & resturned then safely back to the waters. Any suggestions for catching a golden over 16 inches.  We are not timid not without energy to go to the highest or most remote Sierra lakes. Thanking you in advance for advice. Denny

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In this newsgroup about two weeks ago there was a thread about goldens and we decided that there was no such thing as a golden over 16" in CA. In montano there are places to catch big goldens but its not the same as a CA golden. TimFLYFISH Dream of flyfishing, but also let the fish dream. C & R

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In this newsgroup about two weeks ago there was a thread about goldens and we decided that there was no such thing as a golden over 16" in CA.

Oh??? — -Wayne Trzyna

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We hope to seek out California’s golden trout (catch & release) but are looking for a trophy sized fish.  We have combed the Sierra– catching goldens from 6 to 16 inches & resturned then safely back to the waters. Any suggestions for catching a golden over 16 inches.  We are not timid not without energy to go to the highest or most remote Sierra lakes. Thanking you in advance for advice.

OY – by trophy do you mean something to put on the wall?   If you are you should understand that large goldens usually don’t have the brilliant colors that the whappers have.  I’m assuming not so I’ll offer some advice. You will have no satisfaction unless you do the work yourself. Here’s the general idea: The biggest fish will be in rich lakes with limited spawning access. Lakes directly in a cirque receive sterile water, while lakes a step or two down in the chain receive water enriched by the lakes or meadows above. Lakes with more shallows and weedbeds are richest, though there has to be some deep water to protect against winterkill. The final criteria is the lack of a trail. The ideal would be a lake two steps down the chain, long and narrow, backing up into a meadow, with a single feeder stream with a falls a hundred yards above and below.   Now get out your topos and go prospecting. Mark Vinsel Visit my gallery: http://www.lanminds.com/local/vinnie/gallery.HTML

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: We hope to seek out California’s golden trout (catch & release) but are : looking for a trophy sized fish.  We have combed the Sierra– catching : goldens from 6 to 16 inches & resturned then safely back to the waters. : Any suggestions for catching a golden over 16 inches.  We are not timid : not without energy to go to the highest or most remote Sierra lakes. : Thanking you in advance for advice. I’ve spend a good deal of time in the Golden Trout Wilderness and the surrounding wilds of Inyo, etc., and I’ve spend most of that time fishing for Goldens. If you want a "trophy" trout, don’t fish for goldens.  Most of the fish are in the 10-12" range, and you’ll catch scads of them on almost anything.  BTW, Tim is wrong when he says that Goldens over 16" aren’t caught in CA.  In fact, I’ve caught quite a few.  They are very difficult to find, however, and it’s more luck than skill.   Most of the streams in the parks are packed with small goldens, but a fish over 12" is considered big in the streams.  The high lakes hold the big fish, but you need to be careful where you go, as some of these lakes are used as hatcheries (previously discussed….).  Most of the fry are planted in surrounding lakes, and this is often (or *was* often) done by airdropping the fry.  The fish then populate adjoining streams, etc.   It takes a hell of a long time for a golden to get big (over 18"): thus they are quite rare.   Best course of action?  Get the map, hike out for a week, and try some lakes.  Don’t dredge the bottom of the lakes, as they are generally lifeless.  Most of the fish will be in about 3-10′ water, near submerged rocks and glacial boulders.  Sometimes, the larger fish will cruise near an overhanging patch of grass if one is available. Flies?  Don’t go without a sierra red dot.  Basically its a red/orange floss body and a grizzly hackle at both the eye and bend of the hook.   Also bring the adams, humpies, some terrestrials (big ants are great, but beetles too…) and maybe a royal wulff.  I’d also try some wet flies and bright streamers.  Nymphs work, especially with some krystal flash, or other bright material (try some Z-lon..).  The bigger fish won’t rise as easily as the little ones, and expect to catch lots of fingerlings…. Ob Philosophical rantings (optional): It seems that there is quite a mystique about the California golden trout.  Californians like to say that it is the only trout truely native to CA.  I know that most of the Western waters that can support goldens were stocked with Kern goldens at one time or another (including those in Wyoming, Colorado, and Utah), and the DFG has been hatching goldens at the foot of Mt. Whitney for years..  There is also some debate over the different strains of golden, in particular the small rosy fish found in the little Kern.   I’ve also heard that the golden is merely a uniquely colored rainbow, and in fact is not a different species at all.  Whatever your angle on the golden, it doesn’t really matter.  It’s a beautiful little fish, and fun to catch.  Unfortunately, it’s also one of the most sensitive of the trout.  The golden requires very clean water that is relatively pristine.  There are lots of lakes and streams that at one time or another held goldens, but are now incapable.  Between the effects of acid rain, garbage from campers and hikers, and the cattle industry’s use of the high meadows in the golden trout’s habitat, the trout are showing signs of decline.  The fish are smaller, probably due to the lack of food, and the waters capable of supporting goldens are fewer in number.   Let’s hope the trout are still here in a hundred years…… Best regards, Hans  – "The worst monotonous drone coming from a lectern or the most eye-splitting textbook written in turgid English is nothing in comparison to the psychological Sahara that starts right in your bedroom and spurns the horizon."         -Joseph Brodsky, from "In praise of Boredom"          delivered as a commencement address at Dartmouth College. Hans T.H. Beernink, Department of Biochemistry, University of Vermont

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Randall Kaufmann of Kaufmann’s Streamborn is something of an expert on golden trout.  He usually spends multiple weeks per year in the high Sierra, and the Wind River area of WY.  I was just looking through his latest fly tying book and there are some great photos of Goldens.  If Also Kaufmann’s Streamborn has  a great color catalog that you can full color photos of lots of travel destinations.  They’ve got a new web page at http://www.teleport.com/~kman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – We hope to seek out California’s golden trout (catch & release) but are looking for a trophy sized fish.  We have combed the Sierra– catching goldens from 6 to 16 inches & resturned then safely back to the waters. Any suggestions for catching a golden over 16 inches.  We are not timid not without energy to go to the highest or most remote Sierra lakes. Thanking you in advance for advice. Denny

Response:

We hope to seek out California’s golden trout (catch & release) but are looking for a trophy sized fish.

A valid goal.  :) The biggest fish will be in rich lakes with limited spawning access.

What do you mean?  Goldens spawn in streams.  Limited access lakes such as Chicken Spring, or Funston Lake are actually dependant upon plants from DF & G.  Lakes with tributaries have the better prospects for a wild fish of size. Lakes directly in a cirque receive sterile water, while lakes a step or two down in the chain receive water enriched by the lakes or meadows above. Lakes with more shallows and weedbeds are richest, though there has to be some deep water to protect against winterkill.

I agree there.  The larger lakes have the larger fish.  Depth seems to be most important.  Shallow lakes in the High Sierra are usually sterile.  The Lake in the Eastern Sierra which has (according to Cal Fish and Game, anyway) without tributaries.  It is probably dependant upon stocking for new fish but the ones that survive get to about 20" over a period of ten or so years. The final criteria is the lack of a trail.

That is probably the *most* important factor of all.  The above mentioned lake is above timberline, about 10 miles of switchbacks from the trailhead. The last 3 miles is a rock climb.  That is why there are 20" Goldens in it. Now get out your topos and go prospecting.

Hear, hear!  I think the best part of finding those trout is fishing the ten or twenty lakes that look right but fail to produce.  Once you find the lake that you have personally prospected and sampled it becomes your personal find.  Good luck.  Take a long hard look at those topos, get out your flyrod and sample your fish! Tight lines, John Mark Vinsel Visit my gallery: http://www.lanminds.com/local/vinnie/gallery.HTML

–                Six strings…                Nineteen frets…                Fourty four notes…                And a solid top.  What else do you need?

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