Question:

I am a recent arrival to the Central Valley- the Elk Grove area of Sacramento to be exact- and I’m looking for some fishing area tips. I did go out last night to the Sac River just south of the Freeport Bridge and caught cats with my neighbors, but catfishing is not my favorite pasttime. I did however learn several new tackle tips ; Magic String, Sliders" etc..  While I can tolerate bait fishing and always catch fishing using bait, it is not my favorite fishing. My former pursuits were the smallmouth bass of eastern NY rivers (Hoosick, Hudson, Mohawk) on spin and fly tackle so that may give you an idea of the kind of fishing I’m used to. I am perfectly happy fishing for bluegill  with a light fly rod and I have thoroughly enjoyed the occasional carp I’ve tied into. I know the area here has a wealth of fishing I’m just not sure where it is! I would like to start with freshwater sites for now. I do have a canoe so any smallcraft waters  directions would also be appreciated. Also any local publications I should be reading will be greatly appreciated. Also which stamps are worth the purchase on a CA fishing license? Thanks for being computer literate anglers! Phil

Response:

Get the Fish Sniffer, publisher is in Elk Grove.  Lots of fishing.  The pits next to I-5 hold bass, you can fish from shore, or canoe.  Get Tom Stienstra’s book, Fishing California, lists every bit of fishable water in the state.  The Stanislaus river is good, and canoe friendly.  Go up to Verona and shad may still be there, can fish fron the sandbar in the Feather.  Float the Sac above Colusa with the canoe.  Smallies, shad, salmon, LMB. Bill

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I am a recent arrival to the Central Valley- the Elk Grove area of Sacramento to be exact- and I’m looking for some fishing area tips. I did go out last night to the Sac River just south of the Freeport Bridge and caught cats with my neighbors, but catfishing is not my favorite pasttime. I did however learn several new tackle tips ; Magic String, Sliders" etc..  While I can tolerate bait fishing and always catch fishing using bait, it is not my favorite fishing. My former pursuits were the smallmouth bass of eastern NY rivers (Hoosick, Hudson, Mohawk) on spin and fly tackle so that may give you an idea of the kind of fishing I’m used to. I am perfectly happy fishing for bluegill  with a light fly rod and I have thoroughly enjoyed the occasional carp I’ve tied into. I know the area here has a wealth of fishing I’m just not sure where it is! I would like to start with freshwater sites for now. I do have a canoe so any smallcraft waters  directions would also be appreciated. Also any local publications I should be reading will be greatly appreciated. Also which stamps are worth the purchase on a CA fishing license? Thanks for being computer literate anglers! Phil

Response:

Question:

I’m thinking real hard about incorporating a two-weight into my fly rod arsenal, and I’d like some opinions on their versatility. Is it a "perfect conditions" only rod, or can you get out in a little wind or water on the higher side? Can it handle mid-range flies, small streamers, weighted nymphs, maybe a smallish wooly bugger? Or is it limited to small dries and wets? What about small poppers? I fish more for warm water fish than trout, and I know a two-weight would be adequate for our stream trout in Pennsylvania, but I would use this a lot for bluegill and crappie and my "experimenting" in ponds and coves from my float tube. I also like to push the envelope and challenge all my rods, so I’d see what I could do on bass and steelhead in Lake Erie tribs in the fall. Right now, I’m looking at either Orvis Silver Label two-weight, either the 7′ 9" or 8′ 4" model. Are the Trident models worth twice as much? Any other brands I should consider? Thanks for all opinions! John Scherrer http://www.cianow.com "Courage is being scared to death…and saddling up anyway." – John Wayne

Response:

–MS_Mac_OE_3043294664_217493_MIME_Part Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable <HTML <HEAD <TITLETwo-weight opinions please!</TITLE </HEAD <BODY I’m thinking real hard … I also like to push the envelope and challenge all my r= ods, so I’d see what I could do on bass and steelhead in Lake Erie tribs in = the fall.<BR … Thanks for all opinions!<BR <BR John Scherrer<BR <FONT COLOR=3D"#0000FF"<Uhttp://www.cianow.com<BR </U</FONT<BR <FONT SIZE=3D"4"&quot;Courage is being scared to death…and saddling up any= way.&quot; <BR – <IJohn Wayne</I</FONT </BODY </HTML Be careful what you ask for, someone around here may give you their opinion on using a 2wt for steelhead and on posting in html. Hint: Wear asbestos. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. I’m thinking real hard about incorporating a two-weight into my fly rod arsenal, and I’d like some opinions on their versatility. Right now, I’m looking at either Orvis Silver Label two-weight, either the 7′ 9" or 8′ 4" model. Are the Trident models worth twice as much? Any other brands I should consider? Thanks for all opinions! John Scherrer

John, when you post to a newsgroup NEVER post in MIME format.  Use basic plain text.  Your post is jibberish to a lot of people and wastes time and money for some. Back to your question.  What is the point of adding the 2 wt.? Basically, you are asking if you should use a 2 wt. rod for all the applications you should not use a 2 wt. rod.  I’m not sure what your question really is.  If you want ultra-light line strength, use lighter tippet. — Wayne To fish is human….To release Divine! Before you buy.

Response:

    Many of us here, Frank Church and myself to name a few use the 3wt. Cabelas 3 forks for panfish. Being 7.5′ it is ideal for bank fishing of species within it’s range. Because of it’s low cost, there is nothing lost if it is only used sporaticaly. It also is easy to store due to the 3piece take down. I often recommend it as an addition. The cost of rod, reel, line, and 7X tippets (I feel) of one of the premium makers does not justify the limited use of the smaller weight rods. John Popp

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m thinking real hard about incorporating a two-weight into my fly rod arsenal, and I’d like some opinions on their versatility. Is it a "perfect conditions" only rod, or can you get out in a little wind or water on the higher side? Can it handle mid-range flies, small streamers, weighted nymphs, maybe a smallish wooly bugger? Or is it limited to small dries and wets? What about small poppers? I fish more for warm water fish than trout, and I know a two-weight would be adequate for our stream trout in Pennsylvania, but I would use this a lot for bluegill and crappie and my "experimenting" in ponds and coves from my float tube. I also like to push the envelope and challenge all my rods, so I’d see what I could do on bass and steelhead in Lake Erie tribs in the fall. Right now, I’m looking at either Orvis Silver Label two-weight, either the 7′ 9" or 8′ 4" model. Are the Trident models worth twice as much? Any other brands I should consider? Thanks for all opinions! John Scherrer http://www.cianow.com "Courage is being scared to death…and saddling up anyway." – John Wayne

Response:

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

First off, please turn off the HTML and MIME. I’m thinking real hard about incorporating a two-weight into my fly rod arsenal, and I’d like some opinions on their versatility.

They are not versatile, but can be a useful and fun rod in the right conditions and for the right fish. Is it a "perfect conditions" only rod, or can you get out in a little wind or water on the higher side? Can it handle mid-range flies, small streamers, weighted nymphs, maybe a smallish wooly bugger? Or is it limited to small dries and wets? What about small poppers?

It doesn’t have to be perfect conditions, I take mine out in light wind, but generally when the water is on the high side I bring a different rod. I use small to mid-sized flies, no streamers, nothing weighted, haven’t fished with poppers so I wouldn’t know. I fish more for warm water fish than trout, and I know a two-weight would be adequate for our stream trout in Pennsylvania, but I would use this a lot for bluegill and crappie and my "experimenting" in ponds and coves from my float tube.

A 2-weight is a blast with bluegill and crappie. I also like to push the envelope and challenge all my rods, so I’d see what I could do on bass and steelhead in Lake Erie tribs in the fall.

I’d pass on the bass and steelhead though, the tippet size usually used with a 2-weight would snap right quick.  You could use a heavier tippet and fight the fish from the reel, but then what’s the point of the 2-weight. Right now, I’m looking at either Orvis Silver Label two-weight, either the 7′ 9" or 8′ 4" model. Are the Trident models worth twice as much? Any other brands I should consider?

I have the 7′9" equivalent of the silver label (was called something different back then).  Personally I don’t think the non-silver labels are worth the price, but if you are into asthetics they might be. You might want to consider what type of action you prefer since the 7′9" model is a really slow action and the tridents are relatively fast action.   Later,      - Ken

Response:

Is there any concern about how much protection the rod can provide ?  Or is that not a concern among fly fisherpeople ?

I have found that Trojans and seat belts provide far better protection than any fishing rod could ever give. If I’m ever attacked by a rabid trout, I will be quite willing to re-evaluate. Vegetables aren’t food. Vegetables are what the food eats.

Response:

These are supposed to be close-in rods so don’t buy some fast 2 wt. in the belief it adds to it’s versatility.  Here’s my preferences in no particular order. Orvis 7′ 9" T&T 7′ XL Sage LL 279 Winston IM6 7′

I will be picking up an Orvis Silver Label 792 this weekend.  The local Orvis shop here is willing to let me try it out for a week or two with no obligation to buy…now that is customer service (I purchased my 4wt. from the same shop 2 years ago)!  Apparently, the Silver Label 792 is the same blank as the Superfine/Ultra Fine model with the only real difference being the Silver Label has a walnut, uplocking  reel seat as opposed to the Ultra Fine’s cork, banded seat.  And of course, the price…the Silver Label is about $75.00 USD less than the Ultra Fine.  Actually, it was you Peter who tipped me off about this….thx.  :-) I’ll also be trying out a T&T LPS 802.  I’m sure they are both excellent rods and I will reserve my final judgment until I’ve had a chance to use them both.  Having said that, I will say that the T&T has got to be one helluva rod and really stand out for me to justify spending the extra $$$$ ($380.00 for TT vs. $230.00 for Orvis).  We will see. Also..great tip on the leader..thx again Peter. Natty

Response:

Never felt the need to use my rod for protection. I have, on occasion, used protection on my rod though. Does that count?

  Nope. Before you buy.

Response:

What weight would you need to feel comfortable, Big Dale? I’m pretty good at around 165 myself.  I suspect Dale prefers to pack just a bit more.    :)

125 is adequate for those with steady hands and a steely eye. OBROFF Depends on the two weight.  One of the biggest problems with two is the use of factory leaders.  The little line just can’t turn over a 024 thou butt.  So make your own leaders with .013 to .015 butt sections and the versatility of your little rod goes way up. These are supposed to be close-in rods so don’t buy some fast 2 wt. in the belief it adds to it’s versatility.  Here’s my preferences in no particular order. Orvis 7′ 9" T&T 7′ XL Sage LL 279 Winston IM6 7′ Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

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rod can provide ?  Or is that not a concern among fly fisherpeople ?

I do not consider a 2 weight rod an adequate substitute for a Ruger or a twelve gauge. Big Dale. Big Dale

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Wow! I see you’re from Buffalo!!!! One of my favorite places in the world. Been thru a few times, and came out on do-it-yourself hunt at Bud Love back in the mid-80’s (seems like yesterday!) Taking the family out next month for Badlands, Rushmore, Devil’s Tower, 2/3 nights at Buffalo to see the Bighorns and Custer’s battlefield, then over to Cody, Yellowstone and Jackson Hole. Fishing will be incidental, not the purpose of the trip, if you know of any day trips or float trips or do-it-yourself areas, let me know! John Scherrer http://www.cianow.com

Question:

Hi All, I compiled the following URL’s over the last week or so since I have seen so many requests for locations on the web.  I just posted it on rec.outdoors.fishing.fly.tying and thought you guys would enjoy them also. Pete Tampone Fresno, CA Fly Fishing URL’s http://flyfishing.about.com/sports/fishhunt/flyfishing/ http://www.fishhoo.com/ http://www.anglersworkshop.com/ http://www.bobmarriotts.com/ http://www.btsflyfishing.com/ http://www.buckeyeflyfishers.com/education_frame.htm http://www.cabelas.com/ http://www.masterfx.com/Flysnest/Generalfly.htm http://listings.ebay.com/aw/glistings/list/category1492/index.html http://www.fishticker.com/ http://www.flyanglersonline.com/ http://www.davisbrown.com/alpha.htm http://www.yong-special.com/ http://www.kman.com/ http://www.flyshop.com/bench/index-flies.cfm?ID=1727&flyname=McVay%27s%2 http://www.flyfish.com/cgibin/bin/ldisplay.cgi?forsale http://members.aol.com/azflytyer/ http://globalflyfisher.com/ http://www.agt.net/public/flytying/index.html http://www.mailordercentral.com/hookhack/departments.asp http://www.killroys.com/ http://www.motherlodefly.com/index.html http://www.angelfire.com/wa/salmonid/ http://www.flyshop.com/centers/midwest/09-99carp/ http://www.mwflytyer.com/ http://www.flyshop.com/index.cfm http://members.mint.net/raske/swaps/bucktail/lil_bucktails.html http://www.flyshop.com/Marketplace/index.cfm?content=auction&page=ind… 6854&action=details&fullblown=true http://www.virtualflybox.com/

Response:

Hi Pete, thanks for the URL

Question:

I will be arriving Gatlinburg Aug. 4 in time for an all afternoon class and will be there for the rest of the week. Is anyone else going? Would like to meet to have a few beers etc. I am sure that Marc Pinsel as President and co-founder of The Classic Atlantic Brim Fly Society will call at least one meeting to do serious liver damage at one of the local bars. This is the biggest show of the year for the FFF and if you have never been to one it is something else! They seldom have the big show this far South, so it is a real opportunity for many of us. They are also having a two day long Bamboo Rod Symposium. The one I attended last year in Idaho Falls was very interesting. Big Dale

Response:

Hi Dale, Gretchen and I are leaving today in the motor home. We plan on a slow trip and a little fishing in the process. See you there. Tight Lines – Al Beatty http://www.btsflyfishing.com

Response:

I’ll make the CABFS meetings for sure.  I’ll be setting up the conservation booth on the 4th.  And I’m really looking forward to some of the casting clinics.  If anyone is going up into the park to fish, please post.  We had a great time at the SE conclave last year, some rain, but it was a great time. Dick Whiting – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I will be arriving Gatlinburg Aug. 4 in time for an all afternoon class and will be there for the rest of the week. Is anyone else going? Would like to meet to have a few beers etc. I am sure that Marc Pinsel as President and co-founder of The Classic Atlantic Brim Fly Society will call at least one meeting to do serious liver damage at one of the local bars. This is the biggest show of the year for the FFF and if you have never been to one it is something else! They seldom have the big show this far South, so it is a real opportunity for many of us. They are also having a two day long Bamboo Rod Symposium. The one I attended last year in Idaho Falls was very interesting. Big Dale

Response:

Question:

George, For the 3 wt. we need a medium action.  I like a fast action rod because of my casting style but for small streams and casting tippet most of the time, the slower action is more accurate and has more finesse.  Since we are talking mostly Brook trout and small stream fishing I have been working on a name.  No blockbuster yet comes to mind.  So far its Little Bastard, Small Stream Bastard, Mr. Rapidan Bastard (Monteague had a Rapidan many years ago), or that Bastard Brookie.  Still needs work. Wayne to fish is human….to release divine. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – parties, such as finding some really GREAT Tonkin Cane.  Since I don’t take things for granted Wayne, I would rather admit up front that I may be blind sided, but I assure you, once I have the Cane and the forms I can get yours out just so I can keep my word, if need be.  (I have the tapers)  Do you want a medium or fast fly rod for a three weight? I’m trying to think of a Model name for the 6.5′ .  See the Bastard Page on the web.  I need help in this area. George Wayne To fish is human…to release divine. Folks, the more i read, the less i know.. having been away for several week,s I note that resident most hated/most loved roff guy g g is working on "the bastard"!?!? could someone please clue me in… clearly it is a fly rod and not some bizarre confession. Enquiring minds want to know! edwin —

Question:

Sorry if this topic has been covered before…     It is time for me to start thinking about freshening up my gear for the spring season.  I will need new lines on both my 6wt and 5wt rods.  For the 5wt. I will need a DT and a WF.  For the 6 wt I will need a WF and a sinking tip WF. In your collective experience what is the best line available in these weights?  Consider all-around fishing for both trout and warm-water species. TIA Joe

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Sorry if this topic has been covered before…    It is time for me to start thinking about freshening up my gear for = the spring season.  I will need new lines on both my 6wt and 5wt rods.  = For the 5wt. I will need a DT and a WF.  For the 6 wt I will need a WF = and a sinking tip WF. In your collective experience what is the best line available in these = weights?  Consider all-around fishing for both trout and warm-water = species. TIA Joe

Hi All, (#5 rod) I like double tapers for #3, 4 or 5 weight rods for stream fishing. They will usually have a shorter front taper that is better for short work and that will allow more belly out on short cast to load up the rod. On real short casts, a short rod, short front taper and short leader will allow you to have out way more belly to load up the rod. I think any of the top SA or Cortland lines are good. (#6 rod) I would get an SA Mastery Distance, Cortland 444Lazer or Cortland 444SL line in a weight forward #6 floater for that size rod. The best casting sink tips are the new SA Mastery Wet Tips. They have done something to the blending of the floating and sinking materials to eliminate the hinging effect. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi All, (#5 rod) I like double tapers for #3, 4 or 5 weight rods for stream fishing. They will usually have a shorter front taper that is better for short work and that will allow more belly out on short cast to load up the rod. On real short casts, a short rod, short front taper and short leader will allow you to have out way more belly to load up the rod. I think any of the top SA or Cortland lines are good. (#6 rod) I would get an SA Mastery Distance, Cortland 444Lazer or Cortland 444SL line in a weight forward #6 floater for that size rod. The best casting sink tips are the new SA Mastery Wet Tips. They have done something to the blending of the floating and sinking materials to eliminate the hinging effect. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

Bill Can you give us a bit more detail about those Wet Tips.  I should be using a sink tip for fishing speys to steelies but I hate casting the things.  I once klunked myself on the head casting a big saltwater fly on a 9 weight, for pike.  Sorta lost my enthusiasim for sink tips afterward.  Even when I mastered casting it, it was still too much like work.  Do the Wet Tips cast half-decently? Peter Peter        Merry Christmas

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Question:

Thanks, I may give it a shot sometime soon. In a sit-on-top kayak, staying dry is not much of an option<g. I would expect to stay in pretty close to shore and away from other boats though. I’m not sure since I have never kayaked…but I have used a lake canoe out there.  It is advisable of course to use it in areas where you can avoid heavy boat traffice <obviously. But to answer your question simply…yes…it would probably be a godsend for you. Make sure you have enough room to keep stuff dry Tight lines,

– Charlie…

Response:

I’m not sure since I have never kayaked…but I have used a lake canoe out there.  It is advisable of course to use it in areas where you can avoid heavy boat traffice <obviously. But to answer your question simply…yes…it would probably be a godsend for you. Make sure you have enough room to keep stuff dry Tight lines, — Nicholas J. Slodki

:Nicholas, : :Would a sea kayak be any good down there. I just bought a sit-on-top :and have been thinking about trying it around that area (I’m in :Atlanta). Thanks. : : :Bryan, : :I’ve lived in that area many times before and visit constantly. : :What I suggest is an outfit from 7-10 wt., WF Intermediate or sinktip type :II, and a reel with a min. of 220 yards of 20lb.  backing. : :If you head over toward panama city or are able to get back in the marshes :in Choctawhatchee and St. Andrews Bays, you’re in for a treat.  They haven’t :had much rain down there until this last week and the water should be :relatively clear and the bottom stable.  Redfish and Seatrout will be moving :into the back harbors and inlets at this time of year as winter is :approaching.  On the jetties at the pass entrances, spanish mackerel, reds, :pomano in the surf and flats, jacks, possibly some blues, specks and small :sharks should be everywhere. : :Leaders should be no less 7′ and tapered to a min. of 10lb. class tippet. :Shock tippets would be good for the spanish…about a foot of 30lb. :albrighted to the tippet. : oppers are a must on the flats in the early mornings or evenings for reds, :specks and jacks.  Some dredging flies <McCrab, clousers, Puffs no larger :than a size 1 hook are good during the day.  Also deceivers in red/yellow, :white/yellow, white/black are excellent.  For the spanish macks, glass :minnows in a fast retrieve are way good. : :Make sure you bring a good pair of wading shoes that protect your feet from :shell debris and stingrays (yes, they’re everywhere too lol), a hat, and a :good pair of sunglasses. : :Hope this was helpful to you. : :– :Charlie…

Response:

Bryan, I’ve lived in that area many times before and visit constantly. What I suggest is an outfit from 7-10 wt., WF Intermediate or sinktip type II, and a reel with a min. of 220 yards of 20lb.  backing. If you head over toward panama city or are able to get back in the marshes in Choctawhatchee and St. Andrews Bays, you’re in for a treat.  They haven’t had much rain down there until this last week and the water should be relatively clear and the bottom stable.  Redfish and Seatrout will be moving into the back harbors and inlets at this time of year as winter is approaching.  On the jetties at the pass entrances, spanish mackerel, reds, pomano in the surf and flats, jacks, possibly some blues, specks and small sharks should be everywhere. Leaders should be no less 7′ and tapered to a min. of 10lb. class tippet. Shock tippets would be good for the spanish…about a foot of 30lb. albrighted to the tippet. Poppers are a must on the flats in the early mornings or evenings for reds, specks and jacks.  Some dredging flies <McCrab, clousers, Puffs no larger than a size 1 hook are good during the day.  Also deceivers in red/yellow, white/yellow, white/black are excellent.  For the spanish macks, glass minnows in a fast retrieve are way good. Make sure you bring a good pair of wading shoes that protect your feet from shell debris and stingrays (yes, they’re everywhere too lol), a hat, and a good pair of sunglasses. Hope this was helpful to you. — Nicholas J. Slodki

:I am looking for anyone who may have some tips to share for fly fishing near :the Sandestin Resort in Florida.  I am planning to go mid October. Any :information on areas and tackle would be very helpful to a new initiate. : : :

Response:

Nicholas, Would a sea kayak be any good down there. I just bought a sit-on-top and have been thinking about trying it around that area (I’m in Atlanta). Thanks. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Bryan, I’ve lived in that area many times before and visit constantly. What I suggest is an outfit from 7-10 wt., WF Intermediate or sinktip type II, and a reel with a min. of 220 yards of 20lb.  backing. If you head over toward panama city or are able to get back in the marshes in Choctawhatchee and St. Andrews Bays, you’re in for a treat.  They haven’t had much rain down there until this last week and the water should be relatively clear and the bottom stable.  Redfish and Seatrout will be moving into the back harbors and inlets at this time of year as winter is approaching.  On the jetties at the pass entrances, spanish mackerel, reds, pomano in the surf and flats, jacks, possibly some blues, specks and small sharks should be everywhere. Leaders should be no less 7′ and tapered to a min. of 10lb. class tippet. Shock tippets would be good for the spanish…about a foot of 30lb. albrighted to the tippet. Poppers are a must on the flats in the early mornings or evenings for reds, specks and jacks.  Some dredging flies <McCrab, clousers, Puffs no larger than a size 1 hook are good during the day.  Also deceivers in red/yellow, white/yellow, white/black are excellent.  For the spanish macks, glass minnows in a fast retrieve are way good. Make sure you bring a good pair of wading shoes that protect your feet from shell debris and stingrays (yes, they’re everywhere too lol), a hat, and a good pair of sunglasses. Hope this was helpful to you.

– Charlie…

Response:

I am looking for anyone who may have some tips to share for fly fishing near the Sandestin Resort in Florida.  I am planning to go mid October. Any information on areas and tackle would be very helpful to a new initiate.

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Question:

I am looking for anyone who may have some tips to share for fly fishing in cairns australia.  I am planning to go for two weeks at the end of october to through the middle of november.  Any information on charters, areas, tackle and lodging would be very helpful.

Peter Haynes is part of the Australia’s Premier Fly fishing Guides group, and would be the best guy for that area. His phone Number is 61 7 4033 2398, or if E-Mail is better, make contact through Peter Hayes Guided Fishing, via Neil Grose Tasmania Australia

Response:

I am looking for anyone who may have some tips to share for fly fishing in cairns australia.  I am planning to go for two weeks at the end of october to through the middle of november.  Any information on charters, areas, tackle and lodging would be very helpful.                 Fly-guy

  vcard.vcf

< 1K Download

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Question:

I will be going to Kenya on business  next month,  for about 3 weeks. I understand fly fishing is great there. Does anyone know what fish and what patterns are popular there? For  that matter, does anyone know what AREAS and RIVERS? Thanks in advance. Mike

Response:

I will be going to Kenya on business  next month,  for about 3 weeks. I understand fly fishing is great there. Does anyone know what fish and what patterns are popular there? For  that matter, does anyone know what AREAS and RIVERS?

Aberdare Highlands (formerly "white highlands") north and west of Nairobi.  Be warned (by Canadian papers) law and order may have vanished in some parts of Kenya these days. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Question:

(Fournier Thomas A.J.) writes: Am having trouble casting more than 15 feet without knots in line.

I’m sure you can cast further than that, but I get the point. Usually, excessive knotting is the result of overpowering the cast, thus allowing tailing loops to form. Spend an hour in an open space–not fishing. Watch your cast as you gradually work out line to different distances. I’ll bet you’ll find two things. First, your backcast is breaking down, causing the line to describe something more like a figure-8 than a pair of balanced loops. The remedy is to add a little more power at the start of the backcast and to move your forearm in an upwards direction as it sweeps past you. Second, I’ll bet your loops are *real* tight right now, even with the breakdown. Slow down and open the loop a bit. The line will accept more power (speed) and travel further with less effort. If your loops stand one foot tall or less, that’s too tight and wind knots are inevitable. Try the graduated target method for an afternoon. E-mail me if you need any info on how to set that up. Good luck! JL 8-Wt Editor

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(Fournier Thomas A.J.) writes: Am having trouble casting more than 15 feet without knots in line. Best advice I’ve received — don’t cast with your wrist.  Your wrist stays locked, and tight (almost touching) the pole, and your arm does the casting.  This forces you to move your arm quickly, from 10 o’clock to 2 o’clock and back, to achieve the desired result.  If you do this, you’re casting with the strength of your arm and back and not just with your wrist — you get less tired and the line shoots farther and straighter. Ben

Ben is giving you excellent advice here. My local guru gave me a little casting clinic a few weeks ago and got me to break the bad habit of cocking my wrist on the backcast by tying my forearm to the reel seat – he used a peice of monofilament, but a heavy rubber band would work even better.  I can now lay out sixty or seventy-foot casts with a DT 3-wt., where before I couldn’t do much better than forty or fifty feet.  I found that not cock- ing my wrist has also kept the fly off the water (or in the bushes) on the backcast.  I’m convinced this helps in not spooking a pool.  So get a heavy rubber band or one of those spool keepers and practice a while fishing for lawn trout.  I hope it helps you as much as it has me!  Also, if you’re knotting your line it may because you’re starting your forecast too soon. Try laying off until the rod is "loaded", i.e., ’til you feel the weight of the backcast really pull on the rod tip. Cheers,

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(Fournier Thomas A.J.) writes: Am having trouble casting more than 15 feet without knots in line.

MISATTRIBUTION!!! I can cast 15 feet.  Honest.  No, really. Best advice I’ve received — don’t cast with your wrist.  Your wrist stays locked, and tight (almost touching) the pole, and your arm does the casting.  This forces you to move your arm quickly, from 10 o’clock to 2 o’clock and back, to achieve the desired result.  If you do this, you’re casting with the strength of your arm and back and not just with your wrist — you get less tired and the line shoots farther and straighter. Ben

Good advice. Keep your stick on the ice. Thos.

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I have a Sage fishing pole and the line seems to be sticking in the bottom loop by the handle.  Is this unusual?

Not sure if you mean the little loop just above the handle cork/foam (which is parallel to the rod instead of perpendicular), but if your line is strung through it, that might be the problem. That bottom loop is just there to hook a fly to while you’re not fishing, to keep the fly from snagging on trees, shrubs, and ears of friends. Not sure if this was what you meant by bottom loop, but I thought I’d pipe up just in case. — Scott Ferguson                          My views are mine; what’s mine is mine Cray Computer Corporation       http://www.craycos.com/~ferguson/ferguson.html

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  I’ve been having some problems casting and I wondered if anyone could give me some advice.  I’m kinda new to fly fishing so any advice would greatly be appreciated. I’ve been having trouble casting more than about fifteen feet without getting knots around my fly or tiring myself out. I don’t understand what I am doing wrong. I’ve followed all the directions they gave me at the fishing school I went to .  I’m afraid it might be my fishing pole that might be the trouble.  I have a Sage fishing pole and the line seems to be sticking in the bottom loop by the handle.  Is this unusual? Does anyone else have this problem?  Is my

Ref. "bottom loop":  someone else has already pointed out fly line should be strung from reel to tip only through fly rod guides, not the hook keeper attached just above the handle. Ref. "fifteen feet": modern fly rods are rated to flex under the weight of the first 30 feet of a particular line.  If less line than 30 feet extends beyond the rod tip, it’s that much harder to get the rod to flex OK.  I.e. it’s (usually) harder to cast a fly 20 feet than 40 feet. Unmentioned common casting error is failure to hold the line in the left hand so that it does not move relative to the stripper guide.  While the rod is moving (false casting) the line length beyond the tip should be held constant by left-hand control.  If the line is travelling up and down the guides, i.e. getting longer and shorter, energy is being lost rather than being transferred from hand to rod to line beyond tip. —  |          Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Rd., Carlsbad         |  |        Springs, Ont., Canada K0A 1K0; tel: (613) 822-0734       |  |  "What I’ve always liked about science is its independence from |  |  authority"–Ontario Science Centre (name on file) 10 July 1981 |

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – writes: Am having trouble casting more than 15 feet without knots in line. Best advice I’ve received — don’t cast with your wrist.  Your wrist stays  locked, and tight (almost touching) the pole, and your arm does the  casting.   This forces you to move your arm quickly, from 10 o’clock to 2  o’clock and back, to achieve the desired result.  If you do this, you’re  casting with the strength of your arm and back and not just with your   wrist — you get less tired and the line shoots farther and straighter. Ben

I would also suggest reading Mel Krieger’s book, "The Essence of Fly Casting" and watching his videos. Gary W. Godden

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(Fournier Thomas A.J.) writes: Am having trouble casting more than 15 feet without knots in line.

Best advice I’ve received — don’t cast with your wrist.  Your wrist stays locked, and tight (almost touching) the pole, and your arm does the casting.  This forces you to move your arm quickly, from 10 o’clock to 2 o’clock and back, to achieve the desired result.  If you do this, you’re casting with the strength of your arm and back and not just with your wrist — you get less tired and the line shoots farther and straighter. Ben

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  I’ve been having some problems casting and I wondered if anyone could give me some advice.  I’m kinda new to fly fishing so any advice would greatly be appreciated. I’ve been having trouble casting more than about fifteen feet without getting knots around my fly or tiring myself out.

Try cleaning your fly line.  I find that if I practice on a lawn (especially a new mown lawn) gunk accumulates that impedes the smooth flow of the line through the guides.  When the line is sticky I have to work harder to shoot line.  When I work hard my timing goes off, I "punch" the line out, and I get wind knots. Keep your stick on the ice. Thos.

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  I’ve been having some problems casting and I wondered if anyone could give me some advice.  I’m kinda new to fly fishing so any advice would greatly be appreciated. I’ve been having trouble casting more than about fifteen feet without getting knots around my fly or tiring myself out. Unmentioned common casting error is failure to hold the line in the left hand so that it does not move relative to the stripper guide.  While the rod is moving (false casting) the line length beyond the tip should be held constant by left-hand control.  If the line is travelling up and down the guides, i.e. getting longer and shorter, energy is being lost rather than being transferred from hand to rod to line beyond tip.

FWIW: I had real problems keeping the energy going as well, until a kindly passer-by pointed out this last to me, and also taught me to "load the rod", as he called it. Just a little yank (4-6") on the line with my left hand just as I begin to go forward on the cast really helps me a lot. Also, I was not waiting long enough on the backcast for the line to go all the way out. I still count "one-mississippi-two", but as my .sig shows, I mostly plug & chug, so I don’t get a whole lotta practice. Anyway, without that guy I probably woulda chucked the whole thing, so thanks guy if you’re out there. (Course, I didn’t have a Sage, either)         /   V  V  V  V  V  V  V  /      King’s Computer Management, Inc.        <   0  0  0  0  0  0  0  (o   1633 NE Hwy 10      VVV              Y                 612-784-8042 (voice)                      VVV Heddon Lucky 13 leopard: the lure doesn’t catch fish, fish catch the lure. Opinions? I’m married. I am not allowed to have opinions.

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* Le 09-25-94, JENNIFER LEIGH BOUGHNER exprimait . ALL le propos suivant: JL   I’ve been having some problems casting and I wondered if anyone could JLgive me some advice.   <deleted stuff JLmight be my fishing pole that might be the trouble.  I have a Sage JLfishing pole and the line seems to be sticking in the bottom loop by the <deleted stuff JLfat part be hanging up?  We used orvis poles at my school and we didn’t JLhave any trouble at all. One thing you might want to verify is the flexibility of your Sage pole compare to the Orvis. If you have a soft pole (or slow action) compare to a stiff pole (or fast action) there might be the source of your problem. You have to wait more before changing direction in your cast, to give the line the time to extend completely and the pole to charge (whip action) to the max. If you do not wait enough, than your doing all the work and not the pole. Furthermore, I noticed myself that when I’m not doing it right there are nots in my line. I hope this help. Au plaisir de vous lire, Denis Lamy Trois-Rivieres (Quebec, Canada) ~~~ * VbReader 2.2 #67 * La pensee n’est helas souvent qu’un eclair dans la nuit.

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   I’ve been having some problems casting and I wondered if anyone could give me some advice.  I’m kinda new to fly fishing so any advice would greatly be appreciated. I’ve been having trouble casting more than about fifteen feet without getting knots around my fly or tiring myself out. I don’t understand what I am doing wrong. I’ve followed all the directions they gave me at the fishing school I went to .  I’m afraid it might be my fishing pole that might be the trouble.  I have a Sage fishing pole and the line seems to be sticking in the bottom loop by the handle.  Is this unusual? Does anyone else have this problem?  Is my line too big? I have the line with the triangle in the front. Could the fat part be hanging up?  We used orvis poles at my school and we didn’t have any trouble at all. Thanks for your help, Jennifer    " In our family there wasn’t a clear line between religion and fly fishing.."                 …Norman Mclean

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I’ve been having some problems casting and I wondered if anyone could give me some advice.

It sounds like you’re trying to cast too fast. One of the main reasons for "wind knots" is too quick a motion through the cast. The loop gets too tight, resulting in tailing loops, wind knots and no distance. A very helpful exercise, particularly when getting used to a new rod, is to set out a couple of markers at ten-foot intervals. Start with the ten-foot mark and lay down just enough line to reach it. Pull the line off the reel and manually lay it on the ground between you and the mar if you have to. Then, without pulling any line back through the guides, simply pick the line up with the rod, swing it behind you and lay it back down onto the ten-foot mark as gently as possible. Do this as many times as it takes until you’re comfortable and consistent. Then do the same with the 20-foot mark. You should be able to pick up 25 to 30 feet of line off grass without having to do more than swing the rod back and forth. This exercise will teach you the rythm of your rod and your own body. Once you’ve found those, casting further should be easy. Personally, I floundered around for months before I tried this exercise. Once I did, casting problems get much less severe. It’s no panacea, but I’ve tried it with other novices and all have found that it helped. Good luck! JL 8-Wt Editor LPM Editor

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