Question:

I am a commercial  bush pilot living in Canada, I fly floats in the summer and wheel/skis in the winter.  I  do all of my fueling, cleaning, loading, basically im a one man show.   I love the float season, i love flying into little lakes, beaching on a island, dumping my passengers off and then swimming or fishing for a while if I have time before my next flight.   My problem is this;  I know that if I want to make any money I will probibaly have to move into the multi ifr stuff in the next couple of years before i get too old (im 26).  And the problem with that is I have done the ifr ground school twice (3-day cram fest in Vancouver for $200) and have not completed it either time.  I am bored shitless and cant concentrate!  I just cant get into it and I’m not sure why?  For you comm pilots out there flying ifr all the time; does it suck?  are you bored most of the time?  I go up to the cockpit on air canada A320 sometimes and visit the pilots and they dont seem to have much to do….or see. Any float drivers turned ifr drivers out there who can give me some encouragement?   Are there any fun ifr jobs where i dont have to dawn a shirt with those prissy gold bars?  Am I doomed to choose between a job I hate for the money or a job I love and poverty? Help, jon

Response:

 …And the problem with that is I have done the ifr ground school twice (3-day cram fest in Vancouver for $200) and have not completed it either time.  I am bored shitless and cant concentrate!  I just cant get into it and I’m not sure why?

Skip the book stuff for now and try IFR flight training for a while-that’s where the challenge is. If it still bores you, go back to what you love. If you make good money doing something you hate, how well off are you, really? Dan N9387D at BFM

Response:

John.  I have a private homebuilt floatplane and suffer with a similar malady. In my case it’s eliminating one rat from the urban rat race and going north to make a meagre living by flying.  I encountered the following, which while not right for me, might help you out.  About a year ago, the ontario government was looking for conservation officers to fly small aircraft in northern ontario enforcing hunting and fishing regs, and doing all those other things that conservation officers are supposed to do.  Might be worth checking out.  IIRC, they were flying Maules. Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am a commercial  bush pilot living in Canada, I fly floats in the summer and wheel/skis in the winter.  I  do all of my fueling, cleaning, loading, basically im a one man show.   I love the float season, i love flying into little lakes, beaching on a island, dumping my passengers off and then swimming or fishing for a while if I have time before my next flight.   My problem is this;  I know that if I want to make any money I will probibaly have to move into the multi ifr stuff in the next couple of years before i get too old (im 26).  And the problem with that is I have done the ifr ground school twice (3-day cram fest in Vancouver for $200) and have not completed it either time.  I am bored shitless and cant concentrate!  I just cant get into it and I’m not sure why?  For you comm pilots out there flying ifr all the time; does it suck?  are you bored most of the time?  I go up to the cockpit on air canada A320 sometimes and visit the pilots and they dont seem to have much to do….or see. Any float drivers turned ifr drivers out there who can give me some encouragement?   Are there any fun ifr jobs where i dont have to dawn a shirt with those prissy gold bars?  Am I doomed to choose between a job I hate for the money or a job I love and poverty? Help, jon

Response:

OK I’ll bite, even though floats are still on my "someday" list… I love it all.  I fly all-weather all-night air ambulance operations (IFR, of course), freight, and passengers.  That’s fun.  So is taking my Taylorcraft and hand-propping it, stopping at grass strips, and paying cash for gas (usually whatever cash made it through the laundry in my jeans pocket covers my fuel bill). I also really enjoy giving passengers a super-smooth ride in challenging weather (or at least trying).  I did a life flight the other day with a very ill little girl and her mother and really felt like I was helping them by making the flight as comfortable as possible, even though the destination was barely above minimums.   And, I think I fly each operation better from the experience in the other.  They taylorcraft makes me acutely aware of aircraft limitations (no lights, no radios) and the twins make me aware of the aircraft’s possibilities.  I like both! You’ll need to pursue your IR in order to get full satisfaction.  I know the Canadian system is different from ours but put your head down and get your exams done, then enjoy the flying! Jim Wolper ATP/PhD/CFII

Response:

For you comm pilots out there flying ifr all the time; does it suck? are you bored most of the time?  I go up to the cockpit on air canada A320 sometimes and visit the pilots and they dont seem to have much to do….or see.

No, I’m not bored.  Terror tends to concentrate the mind.  :-)   Not much to see, except the instruments, but you have to watch them VERY closely.  Just because there isn’t much movement doesn’t mean nothing is happening.  Try some flying under the hood & see if you don’t enjoy it.   Admittedly, the ground school isn’t that exciting, but I do enjoy the flying.  If you don’t enjoy precision flying, it won’t be as much fun, but I enjoy the challenge.  A night ILS to minimums makes it seem better.

Response:

Question:

My uncle found a STEEL fly rod in his basement over the past weekend. He doesn’t fish, so he said that I could have it.  I haven’t seen it yet, but he says that it’s 7′6" or maybe even 8′ in length and is definitely a fly rod.  I’m hoping to pick it up tonight and check it out. Any ROFFians ever fished with a steel fly rod–and would they do it again? Is this a rare item?  Is it valuable or is it garbage? Tom Before you buy.

Response:

A guide buddy of mine has an old steel telescoping fly rod (w/ reel). He says it is worth some $$. Don’t know how much though. Maybe take it to someone who deals in old rods for some idea of its worth. Never has fished with it I don’t think. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana http://www.montana.com/dno/dno.htm 406-626-4022 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My uncle found a STEEL fly rod in his basement over the past weekend. He doesn’t fish, so he said that I could have it.  I haven’t seen it yet, but he says that it’s 7′6" or maybe even 8′ in length and is definitely a fly rod.  I’m hoping to pick it up tonight and check it out. Any ROFFians ever fished with a steel fly rod–and would they do it again? Is this a rare item?  Is it valuable or is it garbage? Tom Before you buy.

Response:

Tom,    The first outfit I ever fished with was a rusty telescoping steel rod and a worn out level wind reel which caused more line tangles than I care to remember.  I hope I never have to do it again.  As to value, have you have seen the sign "We buy junk and sell antiques"? Ernie Tom wrote <snip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any ROFFians ever fished with a steel fly rod–and would they do it again? Is this a rare item?  Is it valuable or is it garbage? Tom

Response:

Tom, My first ‘fly rod’ was a telescoping steel model bought at Western Auto. It was a total abomination to cast, but the fact that it telescoped made it handy for fishing the small brooks I frequented at the time. I have no idea what it is worth……I suspect it will have some value as a curiosity. George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

Response:

My uncle found a STEEL fly rod in his basement over the past weekend. He doesn’t fish, so he said that I could have it.  I haven’t seen it yet, but he says that it’s 7′6" or maybe even 8′ in length and is definitely a fly rod.  I’m hoping to pick it up tonight and check it out. Any ROFFians ever fished with a steel fly rod–and would they do it again? Is this a rare item?  Is it valuable or is it garbage? Tom

Well, it wasn’t a steel rod after all.  It was an old fiberglass rod painted silver.  The paint was worn off in places and the glass was a rust color so it kind of looked like a rusty metal rod. Another uncle does have a steel rod that looks like a fly rod with the handle and reel seat on backwards–fly rod-style guides/eyes and a cork handle but the reel seat is in the front…  an odd piece, I’d say. Tom Before you buy.

Before you buy.

Response:

Question:

Has anyone had the chance to use these rods before?  I saw them at the Flyfishing Retailers Expo in Saltlake City and was quite impressed with them.  They seem really good looking, made in Florida by a new company. Components and quality seems to belie the fact that they are only priced around $100-200!  I’m going to get one to try out and was wondering if anyone had any experience with them.  I’m not endorsing or promoting them or am anyway associated with them.  Enuf said! Before you buy.

Response:

They seem really good looking, made in Florida by a new company. Components and quality seems to belie the fact that they are only priced around $100-200!  I’m going to get one to try out and was wondering if anyone had any experience with them.  I’m not endorsing or promoting them or am anyway associated with them.

To answer your question I have not heard of them, but now I have a question. Do you have a contact for the company or the ownership of this company, I have heard that len codella’s son was involved in a new graphite rod co. Len used to be with T&T who once had a line of rods called the Heritage series which they dropped, I think about the time Len left. If this is Len’s son’s company and if they are based on the old Heritage action I’m gonna have to buy a few. Thanks Wayne Knight (remove nospam to respond via mail) Expert in the creation of  wind knots and tailing loops.

Response:

A member of my TU chapter has been selling those Heritage rods.  I don’t know much about where they’re from (maybe Korean blanks?) but I liked the feel of them when we had a chance to try them out last spring.  We bought a bunch of them to replace the aging Cortlands we use in our flycasting classes – very good value.  We’re also going to raffle off a couple this year for fundraisers. –Stan – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Has anyone had the chance to use these rods before?  I saw them at the Flyfishing Retailers Expo in Saltlake City and was quite impressed with them.  They seem really good looking, made in Florida by a new company. Components and quality seems to belie the fact that they are only priced around $100-200!  I’m going to get one to try out and was wondering if anyone had any experience with them.  I’m not endorsing or promoting them or am anyway associated with them.  Enuf said!

Response:

Cool! I will be calling them about buying a few.  I will keep you all updated.  This much I was told when I talked to them at the convention, they are somehow in league with Teton/Tioga folks, and that they roll their own blanks and are based in Florida.  They have only apparently been in business for 9 months and are currently trying to buuld up an inventory.  Presently they are unable to keep up with demand..or so I’ve been told. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A member of my TU chapter has been selling those Heritage rods.  I don’t know much about where they’re from (maybe Korean blanks?) but I liked the feel of them when we had a chance to try them out last spring.  We bought a bunch of them to replace the aging Cortlands we use in our flycasting classes – very good value.  We’re also going to raffle off a couple this year for fundraisers. –Stan Has anyone had the chance to use these rods before?  I saw them at the Flyfishing Retailers Expo in Saltlake City and was quite impressed with them.  They seem really good looking, made in Florida by a new company. Components and quality seems to belie the fact that they are only priced around $100-200!  I’m going to get one to try out and was wondering if anyone had any experience with them.  I’m not endorsing or promoting them or am anyway associated with them.  Enuf said!

Before you buy.

Response:

I’m interested in learning more. Do you have a contact, telephone #, City? Tom – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Cool! I will be calling them about buying a few.  I will keep you all updated.  This much I was told when I talked to them at the convention, they are somehow in league with Teton/Tioga folks, and that they roll their own blanks and are based in Florida.  They have only apparently been in business for 9 months and are currently trying to buuld up an inventory.  Presently they are unable to keep up with demand..or so I’ve been told. A member of my TU chapter has been selling those Heritage rods.  I don’t know much about where they’re from (maybe Korean blanks?) but I liked the feel of them when we had a chance to try them out last spring.  We bought a bunch of them to replace the aging Cortlands we use in our flycasting classes – very good value.  We’re also going to raffle off a couple this year for fundraisers. –Stan Has anyone had the chance to use these rods before?  I saw them at the Flyfishing Retailers Expo in Saltlake City and was quite impressed with them.  They seem really good looking, made in Florida by a new company. Components and quality seems to belie the fact that they are only priced around $100-200!  I’m going to get one to try out and was wondering if anyone had any experience with them.  I’m not endorsing or promoting them or am anyway associated with them.  Enuf said! Before you buy.

Response:

Well, i just spoke to Phil who was the older gentleman I met at the show.  He said that they are at the moment unable to keep up with the orders and it’ll be at least two mths before he’s caught up.  They can only make about 500 rods a week at the moment.  He is going to try to get me a 6wt and an 8 wt to test out.  They also have spey rods and their travel rods won’t be available till next year. I did manage to get more info about the rods: They don’t have the warranties that Redington has, nor do they come with fancy tubes and cases.  Most of the rods are black on black, stainless SIC stripping guides, stainless snake guides, aluminum reel seats on the saltwater models, wood on the others.  Nice finish on the rods in my opinion. Phil also said that for those of you who are interested, your best bet is to contact your nearest Teton/Tioga dealer abt the rods. I’ll let you all know when I get the rods. Before you buy.

Response:

Question:

Mike Connor: <<Is it my imagination, or is there more bitterness and acrimony than usual on ROFF tonight ? It ain’t your imagination, Mike.  I have let me feud with George Gehrke bleed onto these pages and for that I am sorry.  My apologies to you and to all of ROFFdom. Dave LaCourse

Response:

My father told me a long time ago, "If you cant say something good about somebody, then keep your mouth shut", my father was a very wise man. Unfortunate indeed that I was never able to follow his advice to the letter. However this may be, anybody fancy a try ?  We are a common interest group, with an extremely broad base, but we ought to be able to agree on something. What is it ? Any suggestions ? Why are we here ? What do we wish to achieve

You’re right Mike, lifes too fricking short and time astream is not enough…. So I’ll start…. George, I’ll say this for you positively , you’ve got balls and I admire that quality in you. Wayne Knight (remove nospam to respond via mail) Expert in the creation of  wind knots and tailing loops.

Response:

I’m up for it Mike. Tim Apple — "Bamboo is Better"

Response:

I like this idea! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would make an alternative proposal: That each and every single one of us just shuts up and goes fishing for a few days. That’s right.. starting, say Wednesday night (Greenwich time, minus five hours) nobody posts to ROFF until they’ve spent at least two consecutive days fishing.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is it my imagination, or is there more bitterness and acrimony than usual on ROFF tonight ? You know, one of the main reasons I am more or less hopelessly addicted to this place, is that it removes me from my not inconsiderable everyday problems and worries, much as fishing itself does, although in a different way.  I feel I know many of you, far more intimately than one might imagine, given the intrinsic limitations. This is a very strange medium, and I wonder what exciting new aspects of humanity will arise from it. Hopefully not just negative ones. At the moment the medium is restricted to those with the wherewithal and intelligence to participate, this is however increasing daily, and will hopefully result in considerably improved communications on a wide scale.  It seems almost sacrilegious to waste such an opportunity with petty personal feuds. When  I see you kicking the verbal shit out of each other, however justified this may seem to be to the one or the other at the time, it actually hurts me personally, to my own surprise and consternation. I would dearly love to know the reason. Distance and lack of personal knowledge are not sufficient to explain this. Whatever,  I would like to propose a "be nice on ROFF week ". This does not even require any positive effort on the part of the participants. My father told me a long time ago, "If you cant say something good about somebody, then keep your mouth shut", my father was a very wise man. Unfortunate indeed that I was never able to follow his advice to the letter. However this may be, anybody fancy a try ?  We are a common interest group, with an extremely broad base, but we ought to be able to agree on something. What is it ? Any suggestions ? Why are we here ? What do we wish to achieve ? I am genuinely interested, what keeps us here ? Why do we continue in the face of sometimes frightful insults and aspersions ? Things that in normal life would result in at least a riot ? Give it some thought. Tight lines ! Mike Connor

What keeps me coming back as a newbie is I’m addicted to flyfishing and this is my fishing when I can’t be on the water (which is most of the time .) I love this sport and I enjoy reading this ng. I’ve learned quite a bit in the short time that I’ve been here and I hope to learn a hell of a lot more. I plan on being here for a long time. I’ve also really enjoyed your stories too Mike, I actually sit down here and wonder what you’ve written this time. Thanks and keep up the great stories. Tight lines, Darin

Response:

Thanks Darin, my pleasure, glad you enjoy them. TL MC

Response:

I think if you re-sort the list by sender (or by thread, for that matter) you’ll see the vocal "WE" are small in number and the frequent posters are repetitive in nature, especially on certain subjects. I attempt to limit myself to the threads of genuine interest to me, reviewing the new posts by: 1) Topic 2) Sender 3) Lines and then determine what I really want to read…after reading those, I then choose "MARK ALL READ" and go away until some later time. What keeps me here?  About 3% of the posts….. Larry #:)# Enjoy the eclipse, those of you that get to see it live….for us on the West Coast of the US, it’s on www.exploratorium.edu beginning at 3am PST. Hey Mike….do you get TWO evening hatches today????  =8^0

Response:

Is it my imagination, or is there more bitterness and acrimony than usual on ROFF tonight ? You know, one of the main reasons I am more or less hopelessly addicted to this place, is that it removes me from my not inconsiderable everyday problems and worries, much as fishing itself does, although in a different way.  I feel I know many of you, far more intimately than one might imagine, given the intrinsic limitations. This is a very strange medium, and I wonder what exciting new aspects of humanity will arise from it. Hopefully not just negative ones. At the moment the medium is restricted to those with the wherewithal and intelligence to participate, this is however increasing daily, and will hopefully result in considerably improved communications on a wide scale.  It seems almost sacrilegious to waste such an opportunity with petty personal feuds. When  I see you kicking the verbal shit out of each other, however justified this may seem to be to the one or the other at the time, it actually hurts me personally, to my own surprise and consternation. I would dearly love to know the reason. Distance and lack of personal knowledge are not sufficient to explain this. Whatever,  I would like to propose a "be nice on ROFF week ". This does not even require any positive effort on the part of the participants. My father told me a long time ago, "If you cant say something good about somebody, then keep your mouth shut", my father was a very wise man. Unfortunate indeed that I was never able to follow his advice to the letter. However this may be, anybody fancy a try ?  We are a common interest group, with an extremely broad base, but we ought to be able to agree on something. What is it ? Any suggestions ? Why are we here ? What do we wish to achieve ? I am genuinely interested, what keeps us here ? Why do we continue in the face of sometimes frightful insults and aspersions ? Things that in normal life would result in at least a riot ? Give it some thought. Tight lines ! Mike Connor

Response:

—–BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE—– When  I see you kicking the verbal shit out of each other, however justified this may seem to be to the one or the other at the time, it actually hurts me personally, to my own surprise and consternation. I would dearly love to know the reason.

I don’t know about how things have been where you are, but for the last few weeks it’s been unbearably hot in parts of the US. Hot weather for long stretches tends to shorten tempers, I’ve noticed. It might also be that you’re normally a peacemaker type and thus more likely to notice such things. It could be multiple threads going on about topics that are controversial here, such as C&R or dam breeching, or unpleasant ones such as the guy who won’t shut up about the Hardy reel on ebay. Whatever,  I would like to propose a "be nice on ROFF week ". This does not even require any positive effort on the part of the participants.

I’m game. Of course, I’m going to be offline for a few weeks with dreams of wetting a line in the St. Joseph river than the Florida Intracoastal Waterway, so it won’t be hard for me to refrain from online rudeness. I am genuinely interested, what keeps us here ? Why do we continue in the face of sometimes frightful insults and aspersions ? Things that in normal life would result in at least a riot ?

I can think of a couple of reasons. For one thing, we’ve a swarm of curmudgeonly bastards here. Old-fashioned gentlemen, and young folks who aspire to be old curmudgeonly bastards someday. In crowds like that, a certain amount of shit-slinging is practically background noise in that you notice it only when it stops. The reason why several of us have Golden Retrievers is that few of us are like them. Not to mention, we do have that common interest: fishing. Fishing is pretty fundamental, and helps to moderate the worst of the virtual carnage. At any rate, I don’t see ROFF becoming a love-in. If nothing else, I would dearly like to not see any single one of you naked. I’m sorry, but my tastes are limited to women within four years of my ripe old practically senile 23. I doubt that any of you qualify. I would make an alternative proposal: That each and every single one of us just shuts up and goes fishing for a few days. That’s right.. starting, say Wednesday night (Greenwich time, minus five hours) nobody posts to ROFF until they’ve spent at least two consecutive days fishing. Look at it this way: We’re all either abrasive old bastards or abrasive young bastards. How do you thing George picked the name for his fly rod project? You can’t stuff twenty of them into one newsgroup without at least a little friction. And yet, when you got a bunch of them into the same room, what did they do? They drank, laughed, went fishing, and drank some more. And if we ever decide to have one in the midwest or the Rockies (or I can figure out travel to NC), I’d be there in a heartbeat. Even after having friction with some of the other people likely to be there, what’s the worst that could happen? That I’d have to drink with fellow fishermen? Please don’t throw this here po’ b’rer rabbit inta that mean ol’ briar patch! —–BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE—– Version: 2.6.2 iQCVAwUBN7E52ckBcsCVVLK5AQFlxwQAib10NUq3IcFIDOofXN3xhP77O63ihWXB LBNuADgWBCyJboFoY6/yzLwmRA+g8IOlPPeW5UGIzxJGmD3ebHiE47+oGNrtdLtN v4v2E1ouzd6Fkf4ybdLtam9J2bmll7iit8ylAChDfQ2wmEN6KWdAyUc4I+oJ44KS QSaCeykGu8Q= =QnA3 —–END PGP SIGNATURE—– God invented beer and fishing so that 20-something Kansas Jayhawkers wouldn’t take over the world -me

Response:

Question:

Are there any good fly shops in Montreal? I want to take advantage of the

Response:

Last I checked (I live up the road in Ottawa), there were two fly shops in downtown Montreal on (I think McGill Street).  One of them is called Boutique Salmo Nature.  Another option is to call up WWW.WWDOAK.COM.  They are in New Brunswick, but they do a lot of mail order business with American sports.  Also, they have small town overhead, so they might be cheaper than a downtown Montreal shop. Keep your stick on the ice, Thos. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Are there any good fly shops in Montreal? I want to take advantage of

Response:

Are there any good fly shops in Montreal? I want to take advantage of the

Try Peter Farago at Boutique Classique Angler, 414 McGill St. Montreal (514) 878-3474.  Salmo Nature, the Orvis shop, is on McGill also, just a couple of blocks down from Classique.  But I don’t have their business card for the details. Peter Email address hacked. Remove -delete-this- to email a reply.

Response:

There are a few good fly shps in Montreal, but if your interrested you could contact the Montreal Fly Fish Association (Moucheurs Montreal M

Question:

I agree with whoever said test test test. i know testing helps me feel better knowing what my sugar is. I also think it’s an individual matter for each to find. I know it’s been like that for me. I try to raise my blood sugar before my workouts (aerobic classes usually) so that I don’t have to worry about it during and after the wrokout. I usually have juice or fruit and it works to raise it enough so I don’t have to worry, and then i usually have dinner after. When I go out for bike rides alone I do the same thing. If it helps, I kept an article about managing blood sugar that i read in the magazine Diabetes Self Management. I thought it was a very good article that gave lots of examples about blood suagr during exercise and what to do about food and insulin. It was in the November December 1996 issue. The title was Balancing Blood Sugar and Exercise by Richard Weil. I don’t know if this is in the library, but there is a number in the magazine that i guess you could call to request a copy or maybe a back issue. The number is 800 234-0923 (that’s the subscription service). There’s also a number for advertising [212] 989-0200. I would try both numbers. The article really cleared up some things for me so I recommend it to you. I don’t work for the magazine, but I do think the article was helpful. Good Luck, Tina

Response:

There are also all too many stories of a lone person who goes out into the woods never to return.  Diabetes is rarley a factor in these stories. Bears, Clifs, Falling rocks, Pitfalls, Snakes, Ect, Those are factors, Diabetes almost never.

Much more common are:   Falls causing sprains/broken bones: you lose your mobility, then you’re in trouble. Happens even without ‘cliffs’.   Inadequate clothing and/or shelter (exposure, hypothermia).   Insufficient food intake/food supply (starvation).   Insufficient water. – - – The root cause of these problems is usually foolish overconfidence. The one which is highly affected by DM is insufficient food intake,   which I have suffered a few times. Test often! Take lots of extra food, extra drugs, an entire extra test kit.   Experience is critical. DON’T try a 5-day in the middle of no where until you have a lot of solo overnights and 2-nighters under your belt.

Response:

   Newsgroups: misc.health.diabetes    Ok, me again, needing advice. It seems that this is my first summer    on Insulin. After my expirience with that nasty hypo seizure on    vacation, I’m leary of engaging in certain outdoor avtivities alone. Actually you have answered your own question… You said "ALONE" The simple soultion is as follows 1: Always have a ready source of "Quick" glucose (Cake Iceing tubes)    Gluco gell, Gluco Tabs, Regular (not diet) pop,  Orange juice 2: (And this is perhaps the more improtant) always have a partner who    KNOWS you are diabetic and KNOWS the signs of HYPO in you. Now if you happen not to be a diabetic (As many are not) Then #2 is becomes #1 and delete all after PARTNER.  That is right… Man was not ment to be alone, Man was ment to be partnered (No this is not a religious or moral statment)  but there have been many, many, many stories of a couple of people who went out in the woods and one became injured.  The other saved his/her life.  There are also all too many stories of a lone person who goes out into the woods never to return.  Diabetes is rarley a factor in these stories. Bears, Clifs, Falling rocks, Pitfalls, Snakes, Ect, Those are factors, Diabetes almost never. So the easy answer is DO NOT HIKE ALONE,  Take a main squeze or hiking partner "Nothing adds excitement like something that is none of your business" A professor is one who talks in someone else’s sleep. Net-Tamer V 1.08X – Registered

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ok, me again, needing advice. It seems that this is my first summer on Insulin. After my expirience with that nasty hypo seizure on vacation, I’m leary of engaging in certain outdoor avtivities alone. I love to hike into the woods and go flyfishing. Or sometimes go to isolated rocks on the ocean for some surf fishing etc. Is the simple answer like this: "We’re diabetic, we can do anything,…if you test every hour or 2"?? Also, how do some of you handle… ah let’s say mountain climbing? Your metabolism goes from slow to maximum? How do you carbo load enough to handle that? Trial and era maybe? Test on the trail every 20 mins? My wife is also a bit nervous everytime I leave the house on any journey (after witnessing my seizure). I’m having a tough time because I have an very avtive life and find this area of insecurity intensly frustrating. Thoughts?                                         Terry Weir

When you know let me in on the secret.  Last winter I went out one weekend alone to go hiking and waterfall viewing.  One time I was about 3 miles into a lonely trail when it hit.  I had taken extra carbo before the hike (granola bars), and luckily I had a sack of candies.   The entire walk back it was one candy after another.  I must have injested over 100 grams carbo by the time I got back to civilization.   So what’s the answer?  Eat as you go?  Doesn’t sound fun to me.  Less insulin?  I’ve read that you should actually take a little insulin before you excercise, to make sure your body doesn’t starve of glucose and start keto.  Maybe both…..  Trial and error seems the only way for now.

Response:

This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ok, me again, needing advice. It seems that this is my first summer on Insulin. After my expirience with that nasty hypo seizure on vacation, I’m leary of engaging in certain outdoor avtivities alone. I love to hike into the woods and go flyfishing. Or sometimes go to isolated rocks on the ocean for some surf fishing etc. Is the simple answer like this: "We’re diabetic, we can do anything,…if you test every hour or 2"?? Also, how do some of you handle… ah let’s say mountain climbing? Your metabolism goes from slow to maximum? How do you carbo load enough to handle that? Trial and era maybe? Test on the trail every 20 mins? My wife is also a bit nervous everytime I leave the house on any journey (after witnessing my seizure). I’m having a tough time because I have an very avtive life and find this area of insecurity intensly frustrating. Thoughts?

You are talking essentially about exercise so I have attached my standard exercise answer.  There is tremendous variability in diabetics response to exercise and the response is also affected by your type of diabetes and medication.  Some people can get along with only minor adjustments in their routine and some of us have to do quite a bit of compensation.  The more you learn about diabetes, your particular flavor of it, how the body normally works, and how a diabetics body works, the better you will be able to adjust to abnormal situations be they changes in activity, diet, workshifts or whatever.  Diabetics can do pretty much what ever they want to.  The first diabetic to swim the English Channel was just in the news. That doesn’t mean, however, that it you don’t have to put extra effort into it to deal with the effects of having diabetes.  When I think about doing things with diabetes, I often remember the old joke about Ginger Rogers.  She did everything Fred did, but backwards wearing high heels. — Charles Coughran Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; name="EXERCIS5.TXT" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="EXERCIS5.TXT" The best way to deal with problems associated with diabetes and exercise begins with understanding of what goes on in the metabolic system of normal people and what the differences are for diabetics. Only with such understanding can you make intelligent choices about pharmacological tactics. Relying on rules of thumb can cause more problems it solves because of the wide variability of individual responses and the wide variety of diseases that fall under the rubric of diabetes. Not to mention, I have seen postings where the rules of thumb were clearly misunderstood. While the following is intended for those who take insulin, it may assist those on oral medications as well. Exercise in this context means extended aerobic activity, say a minimum of 20 minutes of jogging. This is a somewhat simplified account but I think it captures the most important aspects for exercise related bg control. Comments encouraged. When a normal person starts to exercise, the insulin output of his pancreas goes down. At first blush, this seems backward since the muscles are working hard and therefore require more glucose to be transported from the blood into the cells. There are two reasons more glucose can be transported with less available insulin. The first is that during exercise insulin becomes much more efficient. The mechanism of this effect is not fully understood, but it helps overcomes the reduction in circulating insulin. Second, exercise activates non-insulin mediated glucose transport pathways. These pathways are not sufficient to handle the load in the absence of insulin, but do increase the effective insulin efficiency. When insulin levels decline relative to the counterregulatory hormones — glucagon, epinephrine, norepinephrine, growth hormone, and cortisol — the liver is stimulated to release stored glucose. The blood glucose that is being transported into the cells is replaced by that from hepatic stores. It is this hormonal balance system that keeps the levels of blood glucose in the normal narrow range during exercise. For those of us who inject insulin, the first problem is obvious. Our circulating levels of insulin do not react to exercise. Absent any correction, when the muscles demand glucose and insulin becomes more efficient our blood glucose plummets and we become hypoglycemic. This is the reason for a commonly encountered prohibition to not schedule exercise when your insulin is peaking. The higher the level of circulating insulin, the more pronounced the effect. One solution is to reduce our circulating insulin levels by reducing insulin intake. Here specific advice starts to be difficult due to the wide variety of insulins, regimens, and individual variability. The spectrum spans from a Type II who takes a little NPH to help his beta cells out to a c-peptide free pumper. I have spoken to diabetic runners whose tactics would put me in an ambulance, even though our situations seem to be very similar. You see a lot of advice of the form, "reduce your insulin 2 units for every hour of strenuous exercise". This kind of advice ignores real world variability and is sometimes much worse than useless. Clearly, someone who takes one shot/day has a much more limited ability to adjust circulating insulin levels than someone using multiple injections or a pump. The other approach is to increase blood glucose levels by eating carbohydrates timed to arrive at the blood stream in the form of glucose when it is needed. The easiest way to do that is usually to eat fast acting carbohydrates during or immediately preceding exercise. Again, there are rules of thumb around about so many grams of carbohydrates for a particular length of exercise at some defined level. Again, they seem to be swamped by individual and circumstantial variability. Some of us do a combination of both and pump up our bg levels somewhat before exercise and reduce insulin levels to keep things on an even keel. The bottom line is to make careful adjustments and test, and test, and test, to find out how things work for your particular body. So much for too much insulin. What happens when the circulating insulin level is too low? When levels are so low that even the increase in insulin efficiency doesn’t overcome the defect, glucose isn’t transported into the cells. Worse, since insulin levels are low the liver continues to pump glucose into the blood. The result is bg levels rise with exercise. The muscles get stressed due to lack of fuel and the metabolism of fats kicks in, ketones start being produced and the danger of ketosis or ketoacidosis looms. This is the basis for another rule of thumb which is often misunderstood. The rule is usually stated "don’t exercise when your bg is above 240 mg/dl (13.3 mmol/l) and ketones are present in the urine". This makes sense because those are signs that you have inadequate insulin supplies — that’s how many of us got diagnosed. Exercise in those circumstances will make things worse, not better. On the other hand, if you are 300 mg/dl (16.7 mmol/l) because you just drank a large regular cola by mistake with lunch, exercise is a great way to bring that bg down in a hurry. Why your bg is elevated is just as important as the fact of the elevated level when deciding whether or not exercise is contraindicated. The 240 is also a somewhat arbitrary number. Some people start throwing ketones at significantly lower levels. In short: avoid exercise if your insulin level is too low. Do exercise if you are sure your insulin level is adequate but your blood glucose is too high. Exercise also produces effects at longer time scales. Sometime after exercise, there is often a take up of blood glucose by the muscles to replenish depleted stores. This most often occurs an hour or two after exercise, but has been reported in the range of 1/2 hour to 48 hours. Again, as is the case during exercise, artificially high insulin levels will lead to hypoglycemia. The last rule of thumb is to watch for hypoglycemia after exercise. *SPECULATION BEGINS HERE* A problem some of us encounter from time to time is a post exercise bg spike. Blood glucose readings will be reasonable after exercise but sharply elevated a few hours later. It is my speculation that this represents circulating insulin levels that were adequate to deal with exercise induced blood glucose demand with its attendant insulin efficiency increase, but too low to deal with the post exercise demand when insulin efficiency has lowered somewhat. It has been my experience that post exercise elevated bg levels respond to much less insulin than would be required in a more normal situation. It appears that insulin efficiency falls off after exercise at some rate and you can be on the correct side of the curve during exercise and the wrong side after. This hypothesis is the best of a couple I have come up with. *SPECULATION ENDS HERE* Regular exercise over time scales of weeks or months can reduce overall insulin requirements. In addition, as muscles become trained and improve their internal storage, it feeds back into the amount of glucose demand present during exercise, and thus into the entire control cycle. Diabetes makes exercise, and almost everything else, harder. But, hey, if it was easy it wouldn’t be any fun There are two very good, readable books from which you can get more information. The better is Campaigne and Lampman, _Exercise in the Clinical Management of Diabetes_. Almost as good is _The Health Professional’s Guide to Diabetes and Exercise_ edited by Ruderman and Devlin and published by the American Diabetes Association.

Response:

Ok, me again, needing advice. It seems that this is my first summer on Insulin. After my expirience with that nasty hypo seizure on vacation, I’m leary of engaging in certain outdoor avtivities alone. I love to hike into the woods and go flyfishing. Or sometimes go to isolated rocks on the ocean for some surf fishing etc. Is the simple answer like this: "We’re diabetic, we can do anything,…if you test every hour or 2"??

Frequent testing is not necessary.  I engage in all types of strenuous and active things (skiing, hiking, bicycling, snokling, rock climbing, etc.) with no testing at all during the activity. My method is this:  take into consideration your level of activity, adjust your insulin accordingly, and bring along lots of sugary things to compensate.  Of course, this only works if you are relatively good judge (like I am) of when your blood sugar is low. For example, when I go skiing, I’ve found that after eating a regular breakfast and taking a normal dose of insulin in the morning, that I can eat lunch without taking any insulin during the day’s activities. Then I eat dinner and take a normal dose.  It so happens that the decrease in my blood sugar corresponding to my increased activity is almost exactly balanced by the lunch I eat (usually it is not a very large lunch, though, because the ski food prices are so high). I should say that I am on an ultralente/Humalog regimine (I split the ultralente dose into morning and evening, and then just take the required amount of Humalog right before I’m going to eat something). Also, how do some of you handle… ah let’s say mountain climbing? Your metabolism goes from slow to maximum? How do you carbo load enough to handle that? Trial and era maybe? Test on the trail every 20 mins? My wife is also a bit nervous everytime I leave the house on any journey (after witnessing my seizure). I’m having a tough time because I have an very avtive life and find this area of insecurity intensly frustrating. Thoughts?

When I do something like this, I just don’t take any of the regular insulin (but keep the ultralente the same).  Often I still go low and need to eat something. If you can’t tell when you are getting low, then you are screwed and this easy method (make sure you have enough insulin so you don’t go hig and just eat when necessary to prevent lows) won’t work. keith

Response:

Ok, me again, needing advice. It seems that this is my first summer on Insulin. After my expirience with that nasty hypo seizure on vacation, I’m leary of engaging in certain outdoor avtivities alone. I love to hike into the woods and go flyfishing. Or sometimes go to isolated rocks on the ocean for some surf fishing etc. Is the simple answer like this: "We’re diabetic, we can do anything,…if you test every hour or 2"?? Also, how do some of you handle… ah let’s say mountain climbing? Your metabolism goes from slow to maximum? How do you carbo load enough to handle that? Trial and era maybe? Test on the trail every 20 mins? My wife is also a bit nervous everytime I leave the house on any journey (after witnessing my seizure). I’m having a tough time because I have an very avtive life and find this area of insecurity intensly frustrating. Thoughts?                                         Terry Weir

Response:

You got it test test test…. experience experience  you can do anything if you are willing to do what it takes to know your body every step of the way.  Include your wife in everything…this should boost her confidence that you as a team can handle anything.  I have been diabetic for 20-years and have never let it stop me from anything I really wanted to do.  it just takes work. Good Luck, M.H. Moman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ok, me again, needing advice. It seems that this is my first summer on Insulin. After my expirience with that nasty hypo seizure on vacation, I’m leary of engaging in certain outdoor avtivities alone. I love to hike into the woods and go flyfishing. Or sometimes go to isolated rocks on the ocean for some surf fishing etc. Is the simple answer like this: "We’re diabetic, we can do anything,…if you test every hour or 2"?? Also, how do some of you handle… ah let’s say mountain climbing? Your metabolism goes from slow to maximum? How do you carbo load enough to handle that? Trial and era maybe? Test on the trail every 20 mins? My wife is also a bit nervous everytime I leave the house on any journey (after witnessing my seizure). I’m having a tough time because I have an very avtive life and find this area of insecurity intensly frustrating. Thoughts?                                         Terry Weir

– The world is wide, and I will not waste my life in friction when it could be turned into momentum.                   -Frances Willard

Response:

Question:

I’ll be in Andros fishing for bones 2/21. Any hot patterns beside the usual Gotchas and Crazy Charlies?

Lefty likes charteruse/white Clousers. Some are using smaller, light colored crabs. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Response:

I’ll be in Andros fishing for bones 2/21. Any hot patterns beside the usual Gotchas and Crazy Charlies?

Response:

Hi Steve- I went bonefishing in Mexico a few weeks ago. Every single fish was caught on one of Craig Matthews (Blue Ribbon Flies, W. yellowstone) patterns called "Bonefish Bitters". The fly lands very gently, doesn’t spook fish, and they gobbled it up! It was originally called "Pop’s Bonefish Bitters" but there are a number of variations. It is very easy to tie, but would be hard to explain in print.  I would get a copy of Dick Borwn’s book "Bonefish Fly Patterns". It has many dozens of good patterns including Bonefish Bitters. Or call Craig at Blue Ribbon Flies. Good Luck! Steve Rosenblum

Response:

Question:

I’ve decided that it’s about time I changed the bead on my nipple ring (14 g).  I figured that I could get a pair of pliers to open and close the ring at an art supply store, but I was wondering what exactly I should be looking for.   Thanks, Spidey

Response:

I’ve decided that it’s about time I changed the bead on my nipple ring (14 g).  I figured that I could get a pair of pliers to open and close the ring at an art supply store, but I was wondering what exactly I should be looking for.

What you need is a pair of circlip pliers, the type that open as you squeeze the handles, You’d get them at a hardware store.  Put the ends of the circlip pliers inside the bcr, squeeze gently and the ball will just drop out.

Response:

I’ve decided that it’s about time I changed the bead on my nipple ring (14 g).  I figured that I could get a pair of pliers to open and close the ring at an art supply store, but I was wondering what exactly I should be looking for.  

Art supplies aren’t the first thing to come to mind when thinking of where to get new pliers. Hardware hardware hardware. Up here we have Eagle Hardware (unaware of stores outside of WA) Eagle is the shit…and a good place to get all the heavy hardware for your SM/BD needs…usually a handsome *bear* to help you to boot. Seattle is such a piercing friendly place, if I went to the hardware store asking for pliers to open my cbr’s they’d prolly lead me right to them.   You could also wrap tape around the jaws of a pair of needle nose…those are real easy to barrow, you have 14ga rings, those don’t really require special tools. Good luck in your shopping Qathi — "I appreciate and support Lani’s efforts to keep r.a.b. a useful, interesting, readable newsgroup"    =^..^=            =^..^=

Response:

I’ve decided that it’s about time I changed the bead on my nipple ring (14 g).  I figured that I could get a pair of pliers to open and close the ring at an art supply store, but I was wondering what exactly I should be looking for.  

Depending on which part of the country you’re from, you’ll find them called circlip pliers, reverse pliers or lock-ring pliers.  I found a pair at my local hardware store for about $10.  However, my guess is that you won’t need them for a 14g ring.  I can open anything under 12g with my fingers….. laura

Response:

I’ve decided that it’s about time I changed the bead on my nipple ring (14 g).  I figured that I could get a pair of pliers to open and close the ring at an art supply store, but I was wondering what exactly I should be looking for.  

For opening the ring (assuming its not soft enough to turn with your bare hands) I’d head off to a hardware store and ask for Snap Ring Pliers.  Wrap the ends in tape (masking or even better, first-aid tape) to avoid scratches. For closure, pretty much any generic pliers will do, thuogh if you’re feeling really fancy, you could get jewellers pliers. In either case, avoid scratching the jewelry, and ensure that your instruments are clean!  Its simple and easy to use a pressure-cooker that’ll kill off any nasties.  Either that, or consider going to a piercer to do it for you.  Most will do it gladly for a minimal fee, or (like we do) a hefty tip. Denise Robinson, AMBIENT "Peerless Prodigies of Physical Phenomena!"         Ottawa, Canada- EH! (613)723-4779         http://infoweb.magi.com/~ambient/

Response:

I’ve decided that it’s about time I changed the bead on my nipple ring (14 g).  I figured that I could get a pair of pliers to open and close the ring at an art supply store, but I was wondering what exactly I should be looking for.  

 Like everyone else said, go to a hardware store, get snap ring pliers. If you want to get a look at what these tools look like before heading to the store, poke around on "Gauntlet’s" web page. Or just do like Denise Robinson suggested:  "Either that, or consider going to a piercer to do it for you." Best luck, Jeff.

Response:

I’ve decided that it’s about time I changed the bead on my nipple ring (14 g).  I figured that I could get a pair of pliers to open and close the ring at an art supply store, but I was wondering what exactly I should be looking for.  

Try removing the bead without pliers.  Rings are manufacturered to different hardnesses, depending on the company.  I prefer to use rings that are annealed – they are more flexible and resist metal fatigue. If your ring is 5/8" in diameter or larger, you should be able to remove the bead fairly easily.  Use a tissue for a more secure grip. If you must use pliers, tape the jaws with 3 layers of tape to prevent scratching.  Scratched jewelry can damage a piercing. Ring expanding pliers (reverse action) are used to expand the ring just enough to dislodge the ball.  The ring should spring back into shape.  Ring expanding pliers are available from many body jewelry manufacturers. —                                  * Ardvark *                               Anne  Greenblatt                   Piercing FAQ Manager for rec.arts.bodyart                              Piercing Exquisite                          http://www.c2.org/~ardvark/

Response:

– – I’ve decided that it’s about time I changed the bead on my nipple ring (14 – g).  I figured that I could get a pair of pliers to open and close the – ring at an art supply store, but I was wondering what exactly I should be – looking for.   – – -Try removing the bead without pliers.  Rings are manufacturered to -different hardnesses, depending on the company.  I prefer to use rings that -are annealed – they are more flexible and resist metal fatigue. – -If your ring is 5/8" in diameter or larger, you should be able to remove -the bead fairly easily.  Use a tissue for a more secure grip. – -If you must use pliers, tape the jaws with 3 layers of tape to prevent -scratching.  Scratched jewelry can damage a piercing. – -Ring expanding pliers (reverse action) are used to expand the ring just -enough to dislodge the ball.  The ring should spring back into shape.  Ring -expanding pliers are available from many body jewelry manufacturers. Or your local hardware store  :) Me, a couple of weeks ago at the hardware store:    ME: "I’m looking for expanding ring pliers"    CLERK: "What are you using them for?"    ME: "I need to change my jewelry"    CLERK: "PA?" Which lead to a discussion of our various pierces… I put heat-shrink tubing on the jaws of the pliers to keep from scratching the jewelry. —         Steve Carter      

Response:

Try removing the bead without pliers.  Rings are manufacturered to different hardnesses, depending on the company.  I prefer to use rings that are annealed – they are more flexible and resist metal fatigue.

I have found slightly twisting the ring sideways, rather than spreading it works, and it’s fairly easy to ‘flatten’ the ring back into shape if you go too far, rather than trying to reform a circle.  I also used that technique in everything from jewlry making to fly fishing If your ring is 5/8" in diameter or larger, you should be able to remove the bead fairly easily.  Use a tissue for a more secure grip.

A garage handiwipe or cotten kitchen wipe rag works well too, and wont scratch. They are usually blue, in a pop up dispenser, are thicker, and give a grip, without grit and I can’t remember the brand for the life of me, ….  Some brands of finger cots, made of a slightly thicker latex than durible condoms, also give good grip without damage on smaller jewlry (esp if you have small fingers).  The only way to know is to try them.  You can find them in pharmacies and sometimes bead-shops. If you must use pliers, tape the jaws with 3 layers of tape to prevent scratching.  Scratched jewelry can damage a piercing.

Heat shrink tubing, or specifically plastic eletricians tape works well. Also, using FLAT pliers, without teeth, is better, since damage to the ball is truly minimized… *OR* use a plier that has been slightly modified by removing just enough teeth to let a ball nestle in it, and use the electricians tape to provide a cushioned grip.  I have a modified craftsman pliers that has worked well like this on the larger guages, giving a good grip – espeically for trying to INSERT the ball into the closed ring. Ring expanding pliers (reverse action) are used to expand the ring just enough to dislodge the ball.  The ring should spring back into shape.  Ring expanding pliers are available from many body jewelry manufacturers.

Yes, and come in many sizes… they are good, with a gentle touch, to pop the ball out, and in conjunction with a soft grip pliers like the one above, the ball can be inserted/removed while the ring is held slightly open by the expanding pliers. Of course, for each ring size, you need to have a set of pliers <G… gets expensive for a shop to buy all at once…. but getting one pair for your own jewlry should be affordable — about as much as a new ring. — BodyArtist Practioner in Flesh http://www.bodyart.com     Gallery Area & Members Areas Available Custom scanning 35mm & Prints.    In Pittsburgh – while you wait!

Response:

Ummmm, okay, thanks everyone fore replying.  This is kind of weird because I posted the original question about two months ago, and got replies then, all of the sudden there are more?   But yes, I did get the right kind of pliers, I need to expand the ring for a new super cool bead that is a little wider than the original one.  

Response:

Question:

Does anyone have any experiance with them? I am in the process of building a Thomas and Thomas 8wt 3 piece and I was thinking about what guides to use. You say T&T doesnt make those blanks? Yeah I know, but a buddy of mine pulled a few strings and it is going to be a special item. Anyway, I need some advice on the Titanium Nitride guides, are they worth the money? Are the a pain in the ass the put on? Any problems? Thanks….. -Mike

Response:

Does anyone have any experiance with them? I am in the process of building a Thomas and Thomas 8wt 3 piece and I was thinking about what guides to use. You say T&T doesnt make those blanks? Yeah I know, but a buddy of mine pulled a few strings and it is going to be a special item. Anyway, I need some advice on the Titanium Nitride guides, are they worth the money? Are the a pain in the ass the put on? Any problems? Thanks….. -Mike

I put a set of PacBay TN guides on an 8 weight I built on a Powell blank. Aesthetically very nice, the the finish is now wearing off the tip (after 4 yrs.). I can’t really tell you I noticed a big performance difference, not like going from snake guides to single foot SICs. They are more corrosion resistant, though IMO if you clean your rod properly this shouldn’t be a huge deal. They go on the same as any guide :- I think if I were to build myself a real top of the line designer rod I’d use TN guides as well a TN reelseat (Clemens and Orvis have them) because I think they look pretty slick. There are many brands of TN guides now, you want to check as many as possible. The cheaper ones may wear off faster. I believe one of the saltwater ff mags had a review on titanium components a few months ago. I’ll try to find it tonite…                                                 jc

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   any experiance with them? I am in the process of  building a Thomas and Thomas 8wt 3 piece and I was thinking about what  guides to use.  Anyway, I need some advice on the Titanium Nitride guides, are they worth  the money? Are the a pain in the ass the put on? Any problems?  Thanks…..  -Mike  Hi  If your design includes gold hardware; reelseat, guides, tiptop, etc.  you’ll get a beauty of a rod. I use T/N stuff on my rods and notice  appreciative stares from others.  Haven’t got any bad news about ‘em either. – six years later.  –  Thanks,  J.P.Erwin – System Tech – Network Surveilance  Views expressed here are MINE – nobody else dares to open their yap!

Hello Mike,  I used TN guides on a Sage RPL I did last year.  I used the guides along with a gold Powell reel seat and got a nice look.  The gold appearance is not that gaudy.  I’m hoping for good durability. Jeff

Response:

Does anyone have any experiance with them? I am in the process of building a Thomas and Thomas 8wt 3 piece and I was thinking about what guides to use. You say T&T doesnt make those blanks? Yeah I know, but a buddy of mine pulled a few strings and it is going to be a special item. Anyway, I need some advice on the Titanium Nitride guides, are they worth the money? Are the a pain in the ass the put on? Any problems? Thanks….. -Mike There is also a black TN guide set (at least I think it is TN) that is

really hard and looks good.  I use them for the stealth factor.  Have em on two rods and they appear to be pretty good.  Have only used them for about a season at this point, but they got hard use.  No grooving to date, unlike the set they replaced.

Response:

If TiN coating is used as a wear preventative on so many drills, reamers and carbide metal cutting tools, I would think it would be an excellent finish for guides.

Response:

: -Mike There is also a black TN guide set (at least I think it is TN) that is : really hard and looks good.  I use them for the stealth factor.  Have em What exactly is the stealth factor?  Are we now involved in all out war? In order to combat the fisherman with radar and motors on their float tubes, the trout have established hidden "listening posts" to detect the presence of fisherman topside?   Titanium nitride has a low radar cross section, so the stealthy fisherman goes undetected? Just wondering.

First, I lied.  They’re not TiN, they are DLC guides from Hopkins and Holloway.  They’re still good. By stealth factor, I mean that they are black, so they reflect less light and thus spook fewer fish.   Now, I do have composite wrapping on the drift boat to keep the radar signature down…

Response:

I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon to build up from the blank.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : -Mike There is also a black TN guide set (at least I think it is TN) that is : really hard and looks good.  I use them for the stealth factor.  Have em What exactly is the stealth factor?  Are we now involved in all out war? In order to combat the fisherman with radar and motors on their float tubes, the trout have established hidden "listening posts" to detect the presence of fisherman topside?   Titanium nitride has a low radar cross section, so the stealthy fisherman goes undetected? Just wondering. First, I lied.  They’re not TiN, they are DLC guides from Hopkins and Holloway.  They’re still good. By stealth factor, I mean that they are black, so they reflect less light and thus spook fewer fish.   Now, I do have composite wrapping on the drift boat to keep the radar signature down…

May I suggest an inflatable for total stealth ? As far as low reflection guides go, I had pretty good luck with the Perfection ‘EZ Flow’. Oversized and a nice grey color. Think I gotta do something about my chartreuse fishing hat though…

Response:

First, I lied.  They’re not TiN, they are DLC guides from Hopkins and Holloway.  They’re still good. By stealth factor, I mean that they are black, so they reflect less light and thus spook fewer fish. Now, I do have composite wrapping on the drift boat to keep the radar signature down… May I suggest an inflatable for total stealth ? As far as low reflection guides go, I had pretty good luck with the Perfection ‘EZ Flow’. Oversized and a nice grey color. Think I gotta do something about my chartreuse fishing hat though…

I hope those aren’t the same grey guides I got some time back form Anglers Workshop.  They were supposed to be teflon coated and real slick.  Well, they were, until they got all grooved up.  They were way soft.  That’s why I got the DLC guides I referred to.   Bear in mind I’m tough on guides.  I fish from a boat most of the time, and sand and grit gets all over the line.  A better recipe for destroying guides could not be found.

Response:

I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon to build up from the blank.

Kevin, I built an Orvis PM10 4pc 4wt last year, and unfortunately I’ve been pretty disappointed with it’s performance. The rod throws nice tight loops for casts out to about 60′ (using a Cortland 444 Lazerline WF4W) but for anything beyond 60′ the rod just feels overloaded and "mushy" (i.e. not crisp). I also built an Orvis PM10 4pc 8wt and can throw it about 90′ before the same "mushy" feeling sets in, so I’m sure that some of my impression is biased by the lighter line weight. I’m now in the process of building a GLoomis IMX 4pc 5wt and have great hopes for it. The rod feels *much* stiffer throug- out it’s length than do any of the Orvis rods I’ve built, but I’m reserving final judgement until I’ve had a chance to finish the project and get the rod out to the local casting ponds. Unfortunately, I have no experience with the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 wt, so I really can’t give any feedback on that series. Best of luck with whatever you decide, Fred

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – First, I lied.  They’re not TiN, they are DLC guides from Hopkins and Holloway.  They’re still good. By stealth factor, I mean that they are black, so they reflect less light and thus spook fewer fish. Now, I do have composite wrapping on the drift boat to keep the radar signature down… May I suggest an inflatable for total stealth ? As far as low reflection guides go, I had pretty good luck with the Perfection ‘EZ Flow’. Oversized and a nice grey color. Think I gotta do something about my chartreuse fishing hat though… I hope those aren’t the same grey guides I got some time back form Anglers Workshop.  They were supposed to be teflon coated and real slick.  Well, they were, until they got all grooved up.  They were way soft.  That’s why I got the DLC guides I referred to.   Bear in mind I’m tough on guides.  I fish from a boat most of the time, and sand and grit gets all over the line.  A better recipe for destroying guides could not be found.

Hmm, I’ll have to check them. If they’re teflon coated I didn’t know it when I bought them :- Mine were on a Fisher 10 wgt. used mostly on surf and jetties in N.E., like you I’m rough on tackle (the rod is now broken . I originally had SICs on the rod, but switched to snakes to accomodate the heavy heads I like to throw. On my other rods, my black PacBays on my 11 weight have held up extremely well, fishing surf 3-4 times/week May- Oct. for 2 years. My PacBay TNs have begun to wear after about 4 years. The SICs, though ugly, have held up well for me too. Also, the single foot takes less time to wrap, which is important for me this time ‘cos I have to build the rod between the screams/needs/etc. of a 3 mo. old ! Fast is good, ja. I tend to cycle through rods pretty fast, slipping on jetties, etc. tends to beat them up good, so often the guides don’t get a chance to wear out !                                                         jc

Response:

: I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight : and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or : both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, : disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon : to build up from the blank. Hi Kevin,    I read a follow on post about the Orvis PM 10 and thought I’d mention my thoughts about the RPL (and the LLB) series. I have a 586 RPL and a 790 RPL and love them both. They are what the RPL stands for: Reserve Power Line. Wonderful line throwers. Now on the other hand, My wife has a 4711 LLB and I have just finished a 490 LLB and they are too soft for my arm. I have great difficulty casting with them. My wife, however, wouldn’t give her’s up. It is light and does a great job for her.    Two of my daugherts also have 586 RPL(s) and they swear by them. It is a very easy rod to cast. lukn4fish — Bob San Jose, Ca

Response:

I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon to build up from the blank.

Hi Kevin, I have cast and fished with both the Sage and Orvis 5wt. rods you mentioned. The RPL in my opinion is the all around better of the two.  Both are very fine rods; However,  the Sage has more backbone and will throw a tighter loop.  The chioce is yours as to which rod is better for you.  I prefer a very fast rod.  Some people like to have a slightly slower,  softer rod.  The fast action of the RPL is somewhat unforgiving when you use light tippets. I suggest that you fish with both before purchasing.  A day on the stream with a rod will give you much more information than casting one or the other at a fly shop. Good luck,  let me know what you think of both. Bryan Bonds White River Anglers http://www.ipa.net/~bbonds Fayetteville,  Ar

Response:

I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon to build up from the blank.

Hi Kevin, I’ve tried both before buying the PM-10 9′ 5wt 2 pce. Depending on your preferences in a rod both are very nice rods. The RPL is a somewhat stiffer rod, very nice casting (even beyond 75′) but when you hook a moderate sized trout the PM-10 gives you more pleasure. Recently I bought a Sage LL 590-3 instead of the PM-10. Its casting is about in between the RPL and the PM-10. Above all it gives a lot more fun when playing a moderate sized trout. Finally : When distance is your main goal, buy a RPL 590 or even better SP+ 590. when performance is your goal, buy PM-10, LL 590 (3) or SP 590 (3). Succes,  Ger.

Response:

Kevin, I can’t speak about the Orvis– However, I have fished with a Sage RPL 8ft for a 4 for many years.  I have fished the West Branch of the Ausable to the Madison.  I have never been disapointed with the rod.  I’ve caught everything from  bluegills to landlocked salmon with it and it has been a pleasure.  Tight loops, distance,  and when needed a delicate feel. I also own two Orvis Rods.  A green mountain and a far and fine.  Neither of these rods are worth the money I spent on them.  They hang on my wall while I fish with my Sage rods. In my opinion there is no comparison.  Fish with the Sage! Mike

Response:

You should try these rods yourself and see which ones cast best for you.  We all have different casting styles and preferences.

Response:

I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon to build up from the blank.

Kevin, Can’t help with the Sage rods, but can speak form experience about the PM-10’s.  I personally fish with the PM-10 865-4 (8 1/2 ft. 5 wt. 4 pc.) and the rod fits me perfectly. I love it.  The tip is very delicate and the rod loads and casts easily up close as well as having plenty of power to boom out the entire line if I need to. As you cast more and more line, the rod very smoothly and predictably flexes farther and farther down the blank with no sudden stops or hinges.  It became available this year in a 9ft. version for a little better line control, but I still like the 8 1/2ft.  We use the PM10 905 in our fly fishing schools and it is also superb.  Same light tip with plenty of power but I prefer the way the 4 pc. casts over the 2pc.  One of those things about buying top quality shoes and they’re all good, but this one’s really comfortable.  The PM10 904 is a little smoother IMHO than the 905 but doesn’t have as much power.  If  you

Question:

I’ve often seen the advice posted to ask a local fly shop about what flies are currently on a stream where I intend to fish and what a good stretch of water is.  If the fly shop is not near my home and therefore I don’t usually take my business there, what is the fair way to compensate them for their advice?  Should I buy a fly or two?  Some fur or feathers?

Sure that’d be good.  But lets say your headed there maybe next month.  In the mean time, give them a call and get their address.  Send them $20 or so, and ask them to gather up a few flies that should be working when you arrive and mail them to you.  Also ask them for a tip on locations, etc. Typically, you’ll get good stuff, probably more than what you actually paid for (lets say the $ covers 10 flies, most times you’ll get a dz anyway), plus you’ll have models for your own tying bench. When you get there, stop in.  You will be warmly greeted by the guy or gal who filled your order, and they’ll remember you as a friend.  Trust me on this- it always has been effective! — Mike Tucker- The Virtual Flyshop, The Complete Resource              Web Page:  http://rmii.com/~flyshop/flyshop.html              Tel. 970-498-8779   FAX 970-491-2585 If you try 970 and it doesn’t work use 303.  Leave it to US WEST to change our area code and not tell the rest of the world……

Response:

I’ve often seen the advice posted to ask a local fly shop about what flies are currently on a stream where I intend to fish and what a good stretch of water is.  If the fly shop is not near my home and therefore I don’t usually take my business there, what is the fair way to compensate them for their advice?  Should I buy a fly or two?  Some fur or feathers?  (I tie my own flies.)  Or do they really not mind some guy coming in, asking about flies and good spots, then walking out? Thanks for the advice/opinions, Dave

Response:

Braunegg) writes: I’ve often seen the advice posted to ask a local fly shop about what flies are currently on a stream where I intend to fish and what a good stretch of water is.  If the fly shop is not near my home and therefore I don’t usually take my business there, what is the fair way to compensate them for their advice?  Should I buy a fly or two?  Some fur or feathers?  (I tie my own flies.)  Or do they really not mind some guy coming in, asking about flies and good spots, then walking out? Thanks for the advice/opinions, Dave

Buy only what you need and try to give them some feedback on your experience so your not the only one getting something out of this. They aren’t running a community service, they are in business! Sharing good locations and tips keeps *customers* comming back so it makes good business sense, but, after a while, they may find that they take a bit longer to get to you…

Response:

I’ve often seen the advice posted to ask a local fly shop about what flies are currently on a stream where I intend to fish and what a good stretch of water is.  If the fly shop is not near my home and therefore I don’t usually take my business there, what is the fair way to compensate them for their advice?  Should I buy a fly or two?  Some fur or feathers?  (I tie my own flies.)  Or do they really not mind some guy coming in, asking about flies and good spots, then walking out?

This is really a nice question to see.  Without deteriorating into a rant, if you go into a fly shop and someone won’t give you the time of day until you flash your AMEX, leave and go elsewhere.  There are too many people who run shops who simply don’t deal with anyone but their perceived "good customers."  Let ‘em starve.  In our shop, everyone I’ve hired remains employed primarily on a customer service basis.  The sales people are not commissioned.  In my mind and the vision of our store, we treat a purchase of a tippet and the purchase of an outfit are equally important.  If I catch someone short-answering any customer, I point out proper behavior. (and most of those guys got jobs with other fly shops . . . strange how that works.) Of course, store-folk are human.  We deal with the 20 questions about this knot, that fly, or those fisheries, many asked in the most unbelievably rude and offensive manner, and every once in a while, our heads start to whirl a bit.   So, as  a previous poster noted, it is nice to call back and return information.  Luckily, this business is still one in which relationships can develop between customers and shop owners.  As a customer, if you feel someone treated you well, return the favor.  If they were unhelpful and rude spend your money elsewhere.   Many times my eventual "best customers" came from a 15 minute phone conversation in which I didn’t make any money at all. Well, got to go open the shop — hope this helps –jim *                                                     *

Response:

If I catch someone short-answering any customer, I point out proper behavior. (and most of those guys got jobs with other fly shops . . . strange how that works.) Luckily, this business is still one in which relationships can develop between customers and shop owners.  As a customer, if you feel someone treated you well, return the favor.  If they were unhelpful and rude spend your money elsewhere.  

Good to see this response from a fly shop owner. Where I live we have three fly shops.  I frequent two of them, and these tow are as happy to see a customer when he’s buying a sppol of tippet (or nothing at all) as when he’s buying a new rod.  The other shop just doesn’t have a friendly atmosphere.  I think the main thing that makes anyone a repeat customer in a fly shop is that they are comfortable there, even if they don’t spend their money.   As consumers, it’s only fair that we support the shops we like.  Don’t go cast a rod at your local shop, and the buy it through mail order because you can save a few bucks.  It’s low class, and it may result in the fly shop not being there the next time you really need something.  Want to wait three weeks for mail order when you need something for the weekend. Just my $0.02

Response:

: I’ve often seen the advice posted to ask a local fly shop about what : flies are currently on a stream where I intend to fish and what a good : stretch of water is.  If the fly shop is not near my home and : therefore I don’t usually take my business there, what is the fair way : to compensate them for their advice?  Should I buy a fly or two?  Some : fur or feathers?  (I tie my own flies.)  Or do they really not mind : some guy coming in, asking about flies and good spots, then walking : out? : Thanks for the advice/opinions, : Dave         The easiest thing to do is to buy some of the flies that they recommend whether you tie or not there has to be something that you don’t have.         Rick

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Braunegg) writes: I’ve often seen the advice posted to ask a local fly shop about what flies are currently on a stream where I intend to fish and what a good stretch of water is.  If the fly shop is not near my home and therefore I don’t usually take my business there, what is the fair way to compensate them for their advice?  Should I buy a fly or two?  Some fur or feathers?  (I tie my own flies.)  Or do they really not mind some guy coming in, asking about flies and good spots, then walking out? Thanks for the advice/opinions, Dave Buy only what you need and try to give them some feedback on your experience so your not the only one getting something out of this. They aren’t running a community service, they are in business! Sharing good locations and tips keeps *customers* comming back so it makes good business sense, but, after a while, they may find that they take a bit longer to get to you…

Hi, I hate quoting quotes, but to follow this up… We welcome people just dropping in and chatting about NS and where to flyfish. I even went so far as to put in a map and a bl;ackboard and some markers for the map, and we made a "community fishing bulletin board- the old style not electronic!). Why I don’t mind, even if you don’t buy then, is that someday you will weant to buy, and hopefully you’ll remember us – In the meantime…. Tight Lines Bill Curry Tight Lines Tackle Shop and Guide Service Lockeport, Nova Scotia Canada   B0T 1L0 902-656-3329 (ph and fax)

Response: