Question:

Paint

snip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Remember, PVC pipe left in the sun gets brittle, it might help keep them from cracking. http://hometown.aol.com/hlaviation/

Response:

what about  filling the tubes with foam?  a quick option might be a macroflex type squirt foam that people use for insulation, or what about pool noodles?  ever taken a couple and tied them to make a floating chair? fun stuff.  anyhow, could find some pool noodles and stuff them in the pvc pipes.  whatever… sounds like a fun project. doftya – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hell, I liked the original poster’s original idea – PVC pipe. I’ve seen this done, I know folks locally who made floating duck blinds like that. They used fairly large diameter pipe, and capped the ends with glued-on caps. Easy, strong, effective. Mr. Has A Horrible Headache How about 5 gal. plastic buckets? Any new home under construction that is in the drywall phase will have lots of drywall compound buckets and the lids. Just make sure you ask before you take them! Barrells tend to make the raft ride too high (I built one as a kid). Difficult to climb aboard without a long boarding ladder. For stabililty you need four so that makes a pretty large raft, maybe more than you had in mind.

Response:

Hello.  I am told sometimes making rafts is discussed here.  If not, perhaps some of you can direct me to another newsgroup.  My husband and I want to make a light weight raft for our pond without spending a fortune.  We were thinking of PVC pipe for the bottom as pontoons of sorts.  Any ideas?                 Many Thanks, Becky

Response:

My husband and I want to make a light weight raft for our pond without spending a fortune.  We were thinking of PVC pipe for the bottom as pontoons of sorts.  Any ideas?                Many Thanks, Becky

 Milk jugs and pallets.  Nothing beats free.  Really as for a raft for the pond, only your imagination is the limit since no ones life is really at stake on it. Have fun and play around. http://hometown.aol.com/hlaviation/

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Unless you can find PVC on the side of the road you will probably find it pretty expensive. You probably need 12" and the caps (expensive too). Another option would be poly drums. Styrofoam blocks are cheaper but there is some ecological concern if they are not encapsulated. If they crumble up the lake will have the pieces floating around for a while. I have seen rafts made with concrete forming (cardboard) tubes but they won’t last very long unless you saturate them with epoxy resin or something.

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Empty beer kegs provide excellent flotation. The best procedure, of course, is to buy them full and empty them during the summer-long "design phase." The raft won’t get built right away, but who’s to care?

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Empty beer kegs provide excellent flotation.

The best procedure, of course, is to buy them full and empty them during the summer-long "design phase."<< — Gould I thought you had to take the empties back. OT Archie Bunker quote: "You can never buy beer – you only rent it."

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We used to make them out of metal 55 gallon barrels. I imagine plastic would be even better nowadays. Cheap, maybe free depending on where you find them. Hello.  I am told sometimes making rafts is discussed here.  If not, perhaps some of you can direct me to another newsgroup.  My husband and I want to make a light weight raft for our pond without spending a fortune.  We were thinking of PVC pipe for the bottom as pontoons of sorts.  Any ideas?                 Many Thanks, Becky

– Keith In the ongoing battle between objects made of fiberglass going tens of miles per hour and the shore going zero miles per hour, the shore has yet to lose.

Response:

You might want to try the newsgroup call " rec.boats.building".  There was a thread there some months back where someone posted a similar question and received a lot of responses to help him calculate the size of pipe needed based on weight and bouyancy needs. BillS – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello.  I am told sometimes making rafts is discussed here.  If not, perhaps some of you can direct me to another newsgroup.  My husband and I want to make a light weight raft for our pond without spending a fortune.  We were thinking of PVC pipe for the bottom as pontoons of sorts.  Any ideas?                 Many Thanks, Becky

Response:

Barrells tend to make the raft ride too high (I built one as a kid). Difficult to climb aboard without a long boarding ladder. For stabililty you need four so that makes a pretty large raft, maybe more than you had in mind. To reduce the freeboard, you could let water into the drums to ballast it down. I wouldn’t recomend steel drums, even if your are in a freshwater pond. I learned from experience that drums, once they leak and fill, are amost impossible to get out of even a shallow pond. You can’t drain the water out until you get them on dry land. Have you ever tried to roll a 300 lb drum in mud?? So if you go the drum route, I recommend you get the plastic ones and also get new gaskets for the bungs. The old ones will usually not seal properly. There are some smaller drums in plastic. I think 20 gal., they would be perfect. Around here, some of the marinas float their docks on tires filled with foam. I think they stack about 3 tires and fill them with pour-in-place foam. Then they build the dock on top of a series of these tire floats. They have a funny bounce when you walk on them, especially if they are only two tire floats wide. Those who use the styrofoam floats are required to incapsolate them to prevent the crabs from tearing the foam apart and floating around for eternity. One method was to wrap them in several layers of garbage bags before putting them under the raft or dock. Seems to last for a few years. I strongly recommend that you turn this project over to a couple 12 year old boys with access to a lot of scrap lumber, nails, a hammer and a saw. "And then a future boat builder is born." It would be a shame to take this rare opportunity away from those who deserve that ‘life experience’ and have some adult delute it with technical stuff. — My experience and opinion, FWIW. Steve S/V Good Intentions

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Hello.  I am told sometimes making rafts is discussed here.  If not, perhaps some of you can direct me to another newsgroup.  My husband and I want to make a light weight raft for our pond without spending a fortune.  We were thinking of PVC pipe for the bottom as pontoons of sorts.  Any ideas?                Many Thanks, Becky

Check around to the pool cleaning companies in your area.  They all get many chemicals for swimming pools in these neat, resealable, poly containers that usually just get thrown out.  Start collecting them cheap or free.  You might also check around for a company specializing in 55 gallon drums.  They have many usable discards you might find just right for your float.  We used to weld them together and make pontoon boats out of them….two lines of 55 gal oil drums welded together into pontoons with the front end one bent up into a "bow" so it would pass through the water smoothly….(c; Larry

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How about 5 gal. plastic buckets? Any new home under construction that is in the drywall phase will have lots of drywall compound buckets and the lids. Just make sure you ask before you take them! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Barrells tend to make the raft ride too high (I built one as a kid). Difficult to climb aboard without a long boarding ladder. For stabililty you need four so that makes a pretty large raft, maybe more than you had in mind.

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The lid seals are seldom reuseable. From my experience, the gasket pulls out upon intial removal of the lid. However you can purchase new lids for a couple bucks a the home improvement store. Good suggestion. Steve s/v Good Intentions

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How about 5 gal. plastic buckets?  Any new home under construction that is in

the drywall phase will have lots of drywall compound buckets and the lids.<< — Kelly Wouldn’t you need to seal the lids on with adhesive?

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How about 5 gal. plastic buckets?  Any new home under construction that is in the drywall phase will have lots of drywall compound buckets and the lids.<< — Kelly Wouldn’t you need to seal the lids on with adhesive?

Silly-cone caulk would work. db

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The problem with the plastic buckets is that they will be toast if left in the sun for any time.  After a few months in the sun, you can break the edges of your typical "pickle bucket" with your fingers.  Most marine supply store sell rectangular sealed poly boxes with UV stabilized plastic.  They are made to serve as floats for docks and such.  Those would work, and they even have grooves and eye-holes for attaching together or securing to the wooden dock. BillS – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How about 5 gal. plastic buckets? Any new home under construction that is in the drywall phase will have lots of drywall compound buckets and the lids. Just make sure you ask before you take them! Barrells tend to make the raft ride too high (I built one as a kid). Difficult to climb aboard without a long boarding ladder. For stabililty you need four so that makes a pretty large raft, maybe more than you had in mind.

Response:

Not the plastic buckets I have around here (contractor plaster pails). These things are like an ex-wife, they never go away. I’ve had a couple sitting outside in the weather and sun for over 6 years to water my dog (pails, not ex-wives).  I just gave one a big kick yesterday because it was in my way (pail, not ex-wife). I have other sitting around with drain holes and filled with scrap lead. Even the handles allow me to lift them (albeit, not very high or far). I’d say there pretty tough and enduring. It’s the lids that never seem to last if  you can get them with the pails. (now if the ex-wife came with a lid, maybe I could shut her up also.) — My experience and opinion, FWIW. Steve S/V Good Intentions

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Hell, I liked the original poster’s original idea – PVC pipe. I’ve seen this done, I know folks locally who made floating duck blinds like that. They used fairly large diameter pipe, and capped the ends with glued-on caps. Easy, strong, effective. Mr. Has A Horrible Headache

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How about 5 gal. plastic buckets? Any new home under construction that is in the drywall phase will have lots of drywall compound buckets and the lids. Just make sure you ask before you take them! Barrells tend to make the raft ride too high (I built one as a kid). Difficult to climb aboard without a long boarding ladder. For stabililty you need four so that makes a pretty large raft, maybe more than you had in mind.

Response:

Not the plastic buckets I have around here (contractor plaster pails). These things are like an ex-wife, they never go away.

Ppppfffftttt… Damn…grumble grumble keyboard grumble… http://hometown.aol.com/hlaviation/

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There was discussion on building pontoon boats for one-man fishing floats out of 12" PVC pipe on rec.outdoors.fishing.fly maybe a year ago.  One of the regulars on that group regularly fishes the Baltic one one of these craft.  He STRONGLY recommends filling the pontoons with stryrofoam.  

  That sounds like a real good idea.  It’ll also strengthen them.  Remember, PVC pipe left in the sun gets brittle, it might help keep them from cracking. http://hometown.aol.com/hlaviation/

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Well, what wonderful imaginative ideas!  We are so very grateful for the great response.  Many thanks.   Becky & Roy

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We used to pay $5 for the used poly drums from the barrel supplier.  They have some that are watertight, but can not store certain items in.  So they sell them cheap. Bill

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello.  I am told sometimes making rafts is discussed here.  If not, perhaps some of you can direct me to another newsgroup.  My husband and I want to make a light weight raft for our pond without spending a fortune.  We were thinking of PVC pipe for the bottom as pontoons of sorts.  Any ideas?                Many Thanks, Becky Check around to the pool cleaning companies in your area.  They all get many chemicals for swimming pools in these neat, resealable, poly containers that usually just get thrown out.  Start collecting them cheap or free.  You might also check around for a company specializing in 55 gallon drums.  They have many usable discards you might find just right for your float.  We used to weld them together and make pontoon boats out of them….two lines of 55 gal oil drums welded together into pontoons with the front end one bent up into a "bow" so it would pass through the water smoothly….(c; Larry

Response:

Agreed, foam-filled would be desirable on a boat.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There was discussion on building pontoon boats for one-man fishing floats out of 12" PVC pipe on rec.outdoors.fishing.fly maybe a year ago.  One of the regulars on that group regularly fishes the Baltic one one of these craft.  He STRONGLY recommends filling the pontoons with stryrofoam.  If the pontoons get holed or otherwise leaky you need something in them to keep them from filling with water and sinking. john message Hell, I liked the original poster’s original idea – PVC pipe. I’ve seen this done, I know folks locally who made floating duck blinds like that. They used fairly large diameter pipe, and capped the ends with glued-on caps. Easy, strong, effective. Mr. Has A Horrible Headache How about 5 gal. plastic buckets? Any new home under construction that is in the drywall phase will have lots of drywall compound buckets and the lids. Just make sure you ask before you take them! Barrells tend to make the raft ride too high (I built one as a kid). Difficult to climb aboard without a long boarding ladder. For stabililty you need four so that makes a pretty large raft, maybe more than you had in mind.

Response:

There was discussion on building pontoon boats for one-man fishing floats out of 12" PVC pipe on rec.outdoors.fishing.fly maybe a year ago.  One of the regulars on that group regularly fishes the Baltic one one of these craft.  He STRONGLY recommends filling the pontoons with stryrofoam.  If the pontoons get holed or otherwise leaky you need something in them to keep them from filling with water and sinking. john – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hell, I liked the original poster’s original idea – PVC pipe. I’ve seen this done, I know folks locally who made floating duck blinds like that. They used fairly large diameter pipe, and capped the ends with glued-on caps. Easy, strong, effective. Mr. Has A Horrible Headache How about 5 gal. plastic buckets? Any new home under construction that is in the drywall phase will have lots of drywall compound buckets and the lids. Just make sure you ask before you take them! Barrells tend to make the raft ride too high (I built one as a kid). Difficult to climb aboard without a long boarding ladder. For stabililty you need four so that makes a pretty large raft, maybe more than you had in mind.

Response:

Question:

Oops!  I am sure glad that I am not required to understand the physics of fly casting in order to do it because if I was I would be in serious trouble. I try to keep it simple.  I fish, therefore I am. JK

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Bloody hell John, I hope you mean grains !  I would not like to try casting a fly-line weighing over a pound !  (Especially not from Airflo !! 500 grams would be 7716 grains !!!! 350 grains = 22.5  grams or 0.8 oz. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de I have had very good experiences fishing the their fast sinking line. The design is similar to the Teeny in that it has a running (intermediate) line attached to a shooting head.  The version I have is about 500 grms. My experience is that this weight business differs wildly between fly lines. The Cortland line I have which I think is a 350 feels like 650.

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I have had very good experiences fishing the their fast sinking line.  The design is similar to the Teeny in that it has a running (intermediate) line attached to a shooting head.  The version I have is about 500 grms. My experience is that this weight business differs wildly between fly lines. The Cortland line I have which I think is a 350 feels like 650.

That’s interesting.  My Teeny 300 feels heavier than my Scientific Anglers Wet Cel 11 wt shooting head (nominally 330 grains – I haven’t weighed it because my scale is in storage in Michigan) on my 9 weight rod.  I’m not sure what it is.  IIRC Teeny’s prototypes were originally made by Sci Ang and might still be. (In fact, two years ago at a fly fishing show I asked a 3M rep all kinds of questions regarding splicing custom density compensated shooting heads and he sent me and assortment of 5 sinking fly lines that he had used for his research.  Three of them were 3M lines and two were Teenys).  Obviously the linear density of the Teeny line is greater since it’s 300 grains and 24 ft whereas the 11 wt Wet Cel is 330 grains over 30 feet.  The 11 wt is rated as a Type IV and not sure what the Teeny is.  The 11 wt is tapered and the Teeny is not. Airflo claims that their Depth Charge lines have the smallest diameter/grain weight ratio.  That might have something to do with your experiences. Mu, still searching for clues

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Throw him in the river and he will come up with

a fish in his mouth.                                   Arabian proverb.<   When I was a kid, growing up in Youngstown OH, we used to say (about someone we considered lucky), "If he fell in the Mahoning River, he’d come out with a fish in his pocket."  The M. was dead as a doornail from steel mill pollution in those days.  

Response:

I have had very good experiences fishing the their fast sinking line.  The design is similar to the Teeny in that it has a running (intermediate) line attached to a shooting head.  The version I have is about 500 grms. My experience is that this weight business differs wildly between fly lines. The Cortland line I have which I think is a 350 feels like 650. My main concerns in these kinds of line are: 1. The most importand consideration is tangles.  I fish for striped bass off Cape Cod where the air temperature can vary from 95 degrees in summer to forty degrees in the fall.  I have found the Airflo to have the least tendency to tangle.  Since one of the main concerns in fishing fast sinking, shooting head lines is distance, this is a major concern.   I commonly have 70 feet of line to contend with when retrieving.  If the line tends to tangle you can find the day very frustrating and you can lose some nice fish if a tangle jams in your guides. 2. Finding the correct weight.  As noted above, I do not know how much the issue is actual weight and how much it is the way that weight is distributed but there is quite a range in the way these shooting head type lines feel to cast. I noticed on their web site that they are now guarranteeing their lines not to crack for five years. JK

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Ref other postings: Early airflo lines were terrible, not even much use as parcel string, came undone too easily. The modern ones are much better, quite usable in fact. Not as good as the best Cortland or Sci Anglers of course, but available here (uk) at competetive package prices. You gents in the US would balk at the prices we pay! Chris — Throw him in the river and he will come up with a fish in his mouth.                                                                 Arabian proverb. Where’s this river then? I hope its the Bow, Thompson or Vedder, which I aim to fish this summer.

Response:

Bloody hell John, I hope you mean grains !  I would not like to try casting a fly-line weighing over a pound !  (Especially not from Airflo !! 500 grams would be 7716 grains !!!! 350 grains = 22.5  grams or 0.8 oz. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have had very good experiences fishing the their fast sinking line.  The design is similar to the Teeny in that it has a running (intermediate) line attached to a shooting head.  The version I have is about 500 grms. My experience is that this weight business differs wildly between fly lines. The Cortland line I have which I think is a 350 feels like 650.

Response:

Hi Ref other postings: Early airflo lines were terrible, not even much use as parcel string, came undone too easily. The modern ones are much better, quite usable in fact. Not as good as the best Cortland or Sci Anglers of course, but available here (uk) at competetive package prices. You gents in the US would balk at the prices we pay! Chris — Throw him in the river and he will come up with a fish in his mouth.                                                                 Arabian proverb. Where’s this river then? I hope its the Bow, Thompson or Vedder, which I aim to fish this summer.

Response:

Hi Ref other postings: Early airflo lines were terrible, not even much use as parcel string, came undone too easily. The modern ones are much better, quite usable in fact. Not as good as the best Cortland or Sci Anglers of course, but available here (uk) at competetive package prices. You gents in the US would balk at the prices we pay! Chris — Throw him in the river and he will come up with a fish in his mouth. Arabian proverb. Where’s this river then? I hope its the Bow, Thompson or Vedder, which I aim to fish this summer.

I bought an Airflo line last year at a sporting goods store that was getting out of the fishing business.  This particular shop specializes in hunting/shooting and apparently wasn’t very successful selling to anglers.  The line had been reduced in price three times to a final selling price of only $20.  For that price, I figured I couldn’t go wrong–so I bought it.  It’s a DT5F in a light brown color and so far it seems to work as advertised…  I’m probably not a good enough caster to be critiquing fly lines, but I don’t have any complaints about the Airflo line I’ve got. Tom G always looking for a good deal

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Question:

Hi All, We went to BC last week and the water was high because they have had a lot of  unusual rain the past month or so. I had a customer by that lives in Great Falls, MT and he said they were in a draught? What is happening out your way? — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com

Response:

My favorite rivers flooded last week, so we fished bluegills and went out for draughts afterwards (BBC Pale Ale – heavy on the Cascade hops this summer).  Definitely no drought in Massachusetts this year.  It hasn’t hit 90 degrees (F) in over a month.

Raining like heck in Juneau, Alaska and it hasn’t hit 90 degrees since we’ve been keeping records.

Response:

It is still hot in Dallas. Duh!! remember we are not all that far from Wichita Falls which has the claim of one of the most appropriately named bicycle races in a few weeks, The Hotter Than Hell 100. Lake Lewisville is still over 13 feet low. Big Dale .

Response:

My favorite rivers flooded last week, so we fished bluegills and went out for draughts afterwards (BBC Pale Ale – heavy on the Cascade hops this summer).  Definitely no drought in Massachusetts this year.  It hasn’t hit 90 degrees (F) in over a month.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – We went to BC last week and the water was high because they have had a lot of  unusual rain the past month or so. I had a customer by that lives in Great Falls, MT and he said they were in a draught? What is happening out your way? Bill Kiene

Response:

What is happening out your way?

Serious drought in Georgia. — Charlie…

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Wet and cool in Ontario – all of the rivers are high and we’ve had a few floods. Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

What is happening out your way?

reporting from north carolina:         it’s been a great year for bermuda grass.  the golf course fairways are lush and green.  of course, i live in paradise.  in fact, there is a little town about 20 miles northwest of here by the name of "eden". wayno

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Hi All, What is happening out your way?

Big Dale covered the DFW area (hotter’n hell, 11 or 12 days over 100, and dry) and it was hot (mid 90s), with a little rain in Orlando area, raining to beat all hell on the MS/AL Gulf Coast, particularly Mobile. TC, R – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com

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Well, in Ohio farmers are expecting exceptional corn crops…….spring rains have been the pits. Of course this is smallmouth bas country which is some fine fishing.  This spring as the fishing started to heat up we began having rains.  Oh, you could find a place to fish but my usual haunts were high and muddy.  About the time you thought you could go fishing tomorrow, put a hurtin on me. So for a month I was unable to fish….and this while the wife and little girl were out of town.  By the time the water was fishable again, boom, summer was here….algae, green water the whole bit. Early morning and late evening were the ticket….I just missed out on a whole spring of fishing…….john – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi All, We went to BC last week and the water was high because they have had a lot of  unusual rain the past month or so. I had a customer by that lives in Great Falls, MT and he said they were in a draught? What is happening out your way? — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com

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Lotta Summer rain here in Maryland.  Some of the stockies are still around, as the rain has kept the rivers cool.  Temp was in the 70s yesterday.  Nebraska on the other hand is in draught and its sizzlin’ hot in the 100s.        Frank Reid Before you buy.

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 in fact, there is a little town about 20 miles northwest of here by the name of "eden".

When I lived in Kansas I used to fish by a little town named ‘Climax’ not far from ‘Eureka’. — Charlie…

Response:

 in fact, there is a little town about 20 miles northwest of here by the name of "eden". When I lived in Kansas I used to fish by a little town named ‘Climax’ not far from ‘Eureka’. — Charlie…

        "climax" is about 15 miles southeast.  in the nether regions, one might say. wayno

Response:

 in fact, there is a little town about 20 miles northwest of here by the name of "eden". When I lived in Kansas I used to fish by a little town named ‘Climax’ not far from ‘Eureka’. — Charlie…

Not far from Friends University, I take it? <G R

Response:

When I lived in Kansas I used to fish by a little town named ‘Climax’ not far from ‘Eureka’. — Charlie…

  When I lived in Nebraska and owned a 90 hp Super Cub, my flying buddy and I talked about establishing a record for the quickest time in a Super Cub on a flight from Colon, Nebraska to Athol, Kansas:) Bob Skinner   Buffalo, WY — —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Ya’ll keep your pre-verted towns away from the home of my dear, sainted mother.  She lives in Virgin, UT.  As a matter of fact, I was jus’ thinkin’.  There’s this lady, lives down the street, name’s Mary.  Then again, she CAN’T be that Mary, ’cause she moved up from Las Vegas.    Virgin is the only place in the world with an actual Virgin Recycling Center.                       Frank Reid Before you buy.

Response:

The trout in Northern California are plentiful and in great condition after four years of good rain and snowfall.  River runoff has reduced to the point where dry fly fishing is good and will remain that way for the rest of the year.  This is the year for those 100 trout days. Ernie

Response:

Not far from Friends University, I take it?

About 75mi (or so) east of Friends University of Central Kansas<g. (not the officially sanction name of the school). — Charlie…

Response:

   "climax" is about 15 miles southeast.  in the nether regions, one might say.

Ah, you’ve been there<g. — Charlie…

Response:

What is happening out your way?

Its looking like drought in CO.  Streams not controlled by dam releases are running quite low and warm, at least on the eastern slope.  Hopefully at least some of the fish will survive.

Response:

Up here in the Lakes District it has been raining off and on all summer. The last 5 days or so it’s been sunny. I haven’t been to any rivers in a couple of weeks just fishing the lake so I can’t say how they are. One plus though if the water is high it usually brings record runs for the fall.             Ian – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hi All, We went to BC last week and the water was high because they have had a lot of  unusual rain the past month or so. I had a customer by that lives in Great Falls, MT and he said they were in a draught? What is happening out your way? — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com

Response:

What is happening out your way?

I have only been able to fly fish our local river on two occasions in the last three months becasue it’s so muddy.  We watered the lawn only once this entire summer.  Not flood per se, but steady precipitation. Mu

Response:

What is happening out your way? I have only been able to fly fish our local river on two occasions in the last three months becasue it’s so muddy.  We watered the lawn only once this entire summer.  Not flood per se, but steady precipitation. Mu

Today, will be (provided we don’t get rain) the  144th consecutive day without measurable precipitation in Las Vegas – Going for the record of 150 set in 1950!  So I guess you could say that we are having a drought.  BUT!  20 minutes after it starts raining, we will be in a flood.  I normally fish in Utah – about 3 hours north of here.  Creeks and ponds in that area are near or at record lows.  Fire danger is rated at Extreme+.  

Response:

What is happening out your way? In The Southern Tier of Vermont,  We had three months of nearly

continuous rains.  The rivers and streams were quite high and not very fishable.  This has settled quite a bit in the past month and the fishing is the best that it has been in my experiance. There has been a fairly steady Sulfur hatch and #10 & #12 sulfers are highly reliable and productive. The Trout are very numerous, well distributed, and in excellent health.   They are deep, broad, and remarkably brightly colored.  They are also guite long winded, makeing for some outstandingly long fights.  Some of the jumps are spectacular. The health of the fisheries is probably due to higher than average streamflows. In fact, fishermen should be extra aware of the weather. Because of the high water table, flash flooding can be an important consideration.  You want to be sure that you leave yourself a ready escape if you are fishing in the rain. If it has rained, the rivers and streams will be high for a couple of days.  The best times to fish are when the water has cleared and receded some.  Evening is the best time, with the last hour of light being the peak time.   So, just choose a water and hang on!                                     Mike Don’t forget to let them go.

Response:

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My home river has been alternating on a daily basis between running high and muddy and high and clear with an amber tinge. When it is running amber, the fishing is pretty good, but with the heavy flows, traditional dry techniques aren’t productive. In this heavy flowing, colored water, I’ve been having good success with a technique that was shown to me by an old rancher about twenty years ago. The technique is a fun one and is often productive when the trout are reluctant to come up for traditionally fished dries. It’s a technique geared for fishing fast, heavy water. I use it mainly in pocket water, but it also works on the streamside edges of heavy, deep water and in around any obstructions in deep strong runs. The flies I use are a high floating dry with a wet fly or soft hackle on a dropper of about 2 feet. I generally use a dry about two sizes bigger than I normally would and use a fly two sizes smaller than the dry as a dropper. The dropper is optional but will result in more hookups. I’ll describe the technique for a pocket water situation where I mainly use it. Casts can be short or long, but since you can approach fish closely in pocket water, often surprisingly close, and short casts give you much more control, I use casts of under fifteen feet 90% of the time. The only time I use longer casts is when the water is too deep or heavy to get to an area I want to fish. I try to fish an area thoroughly, even spots where there doesn’t appear to be any rocks that could break up the current, but I concentrate the casts to run through any visible areas where larger rocks provide calm water cushions. I generally a cast up and across stream and immediately raise the rod tip to lift all the fly line off the water and get direct contact with the fly.  I then begin dragging and skipping the fly across the current. I vary the action of the fly but the key is lots of action.  When the flies get in a position just below me, I begin maneuvering them through each small pocket I can find.  I skitter them upstream and down, back and forth through any pockets below. This technique will bring good fish to the surface that ignore more placid, traditional techniques. The quick moving flies result in strikes that are aggressive, vicious, slashing, fast, exciting etc. and you will get many more misses than hookups. Setting the hook at the strike usually results in pulling the fly away from the trout. Strikes need to be delayed but because of the tight line, the fish will usually hook themselves. Since there are a large percentage of missed fish with this technique, the feeding locations and holding areas that are revealed, need to be fished again. Since most of these missed strikes, refusals etc. are to the larger, more visible dry, the next thing I do is to try to maneuver the small dropper through the area trying to skip it across the surface. If this doesn’t work, I do a number of traditional drag free drifts through the area, paying close attention for hits on the dropper. This technique is definitely a kick when it’s working.  It elicits strikes from trout more akin to those of a bass or a pike to a popper than a typical sedate sip to a dry. I tend to ignore the technique when the fish are rising to more typical techniques but maybe I shouldn’t. Willi Interesting technique Willi.  I think most of us have used a similar

approach for pocket water, but not with a dropper, and not with a systematic plan.  For me its been an approach used out of necessity at times for fishing pocket water, especially casting over currents or boulders.  I’ll try it next opportunity. Pat K Before you buy.

Response:

My home river has been alternating on a daily basis between running high and muddy and high and clear with an amber tinge. When it is running amber, the fishing is pretty good, but with the heavy flows, traditional dry techniques aren’t productive. In this heavy flowing, colored water, I’ve been having good success with a technique that was shown to me by an old rancher about twenty years ago. The technique is a fun one and is often productive when the trout are reluctant to come up for traditionally fished dries. It’s a technique geared for fishing fast, heavy water. I use it mainly in pocket water, but it also works on the streamside edges of heavy, deep water and in around any obstructions in deep strong runs. The flies I use are a high floating dry with a wet fly or soft hackle on a dropper of about 2 feet. I generally use a dry about two sizes bigger than I normally would and use a fly two sizes smaller than the dry as a dropper. The dropper is optional but will result in more hookups. I’ll describe the technique for a pocket water situation where I mainly use it. Casts can be short or long, but since you can approach fish closely in pocket water, often surprisingly close, and short casts give you much more control, I use casts of under fifteen feet 90% of the time. The only time I use longer casts is when the water is too deep or heavy to get to an area I want to fish. I try to fish an area thoroughly, even spots where there doesn’t appear to be any rocks that could break up the current, but I concentrate the casts to run through any visible areas where larger rocks provide calm water cushions. I generally a cast up and across stream and immediately raise the rod tip to lift all the fly line off the water and get direct contact with the fly.  I then begin dragging and skipping the fly across the current. I vary the action of the fly but the key is lots of action.  When the flies get in a position just below me, I begin maneuvering them through each small pocket I can find.  I skitter them upstream and down, back and forth through any pockets below. This technique will bring good fish to the surface that ignore more placid, traditional techniques. The quick moving flies result in strikes that are aggressive, vicious, slashing, fast, exciting etc. and you will get many more misses than hookups. Setting the hook at the strike usually results in pulling the fly away from the trout. Strikes need to be delayed but because of the tight line, the fish will usually hook themselves. Since there are a large percentage of missed fish with this technique, the feeding locations and holding areas that are revealed, need to be fished again. Since most of these missed strikes, refusals etc. are to the larger, more visible dry, the next thing I do is to try to maneuver the small dropper through the area trying to skip it across the surface. If this doesn’t work, I do a number of traditional drag free drifts through the area, paying close attention for hits on the dropper. This technique is definitely a kick when it’s working.  It elicits strikes from trout more akin to those of a bass or a pike to a popper than a typical sedate sip to a dry. I tend to ignore the technique when the fish are rising to more typical techniques but maybe I shouldn’t. Willi

Response:

Question:

One of the most valuable "how to" books on fly fishing I have had the pleasure of reading is "The Cast" by Ed Jaworski. He has recently published a new book, "Troubleshooting the Cast", a paper back book which addresses 32 common casting problems. The book is well written, and the diagrams are easy to follow and uncluttered. I got my copy in the mail this last week and have been using some of his techniques to work out some kinks on a pond here in Kansas, especially I problem I have casting weighted flies. I highly recomend those of you who might have a little casting kink check it out. Your friendly gear whore and singlemaltmeister. Wayne

Response:

How much was it and where can I get it on-line? — Vern My ROFF page: http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/ResortRd/v_deloy/ROFFintro.html – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – One of the most valuable "how to" books on fly fishing I have had the pleasure of reading is "The Cast" by Ed Jaworski. He has recently published a new book, "Troubleshooting the Cast", a paper back book which addresses 32 common casting problems. The book is well written, and the diagrams are easy to follow and uncluttered. I got my copy in the mail this last week and have been using some of his techniques to work out some kinks on a pond here in Kansas, especially I problem I have casting weighted flies. I highly recomend those of you who might have a little casting kink check it out. Your friendly gear whore and singlemaltmeister. Wayne

Before you buy.

Response:

The back cover lists the price $12.95 and I bought mine at amazon.com Wayne

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How much was it and where can I get it on-line? — Vern My ROFF page: http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/ResortRd/v_deloy/ROFFintro.html One of the most valuable "how to" books on fly fishing I have had the pleasure of reading is "The Cast" by Ed Jaworski. He has recently published a new book, "Troubleshooting the Cast", a paper back book which addresses 32 common casting problems. The book is well written, and the diagrams are easy to follow and uncluttered. I got my copy in the mail this last week and have been using some of his techniques to work out some kinks on a pond here in Kansas, especially I problem I have casting weighted flies. I highly recomend those of you who might have a little casting kink check it out. Your friendly gear whore and singlemaltmeister. Wayne Before you buy.

Response:

The back cover lists the price $12.95 and I bought mine at amazon.com

I just ordered one from there. My wife hates ‘one click’ ordering<g. — Charlie…

Response:

One of the most valuable "how to" books on fly fishing I have had the pleasure of reading is "The Cast" by Ed Jaworski.

Hey Walt, is this available at EZFlyfish? Joe F.

Response:

One of the most valuable "how to" books on fly fishing I have had the pleasure of reading is "The Cast" by Ed Jaworski. Hey Walt, is this available at EZFlyfish? Joe F.

Hi Joe, It will be indirectly available later today if my damn isp will properly function. I’ve started a "collection" of recommended books available through brbg/ez in association with amazon. Here’s the link to main page: http://users.boone.net/wgw/brbg-3.html Here’s the link to where this title will be located (if I can make a successful upload): http://users.boone.net/wgw/brbg-gen-ff.html Walt

Response:

Question:

What do you like to fish? For lots of fun, generally smaller cutthroats, I suggest the Dewatto River. You can park at the bridge 2-3 miles from the mouth and fish downstream. Lots of pockets, log jams and no path to speak of. Hope you are in shape. Its a very small river, with its own pristine salt estuary.  Smash down your barbs because those occasional decent size bows you catch that fight like hell are most likely young steelhead. Wade wet or with wellies. The further you get in the better chances for something bigger. Amazing what these small pools can hold. The bottom is coated with caddis. Suggest small Stimulators to avoid hooking the tiny fellows. Also, stop in the FF  shop in Poulsbo for advice and flies. Also check out the current thread on the Dosewallips and the Duckabush in ROFF for info on two midsize streams. If you can breakaway for longer drive up the Skokomish and hike up the "Staircase" for a mile for the best trout river on Hood Canal. Its steep but not that bad and well worth it. Bears last year so no little wandering kids. All the above are delicate, waters so tread lightly. We may also be into Silvers by this time in the salt along the beaches. Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I will be in the Bremerton WA area, staying at the SUB Base, next week. Any info on nearby fresh water fishing would be appreciated, I will probably have a few of hours free each evening. Thanks Jim

Response:

I will be in the Bremerton WA area, staying at the SUB Base, next week. Any info on nearby fresh water fishing would be appreciated, I will probably have a few of hours free each evening. Thanks Jim

Hi Jim, The Dewatto was the first river to come to my mind as well, because it’s on that side of the Hood Canal, though I ‘ve never fished it myself. The fly shop’s name that David mentioned is Northwest Angler their phone number is 360.697.7100 the address is 18804 Front St., Poulsbo. They’re located right thread above regarding fishing the Olympic Peninsula. Tight lines, Darin

Response:

I will be in the Bremerton WA area, staying at the SUB Base, next week. Any info on nearby fresh water fishing would be appreciated, I will probably have a few of hours free each evening. Thanks Jim

Response:

Question:

I’ve got a question about trying again after the end of a 25-year marriage. (I’m a 54-year-old male dumpee).  Naturally, I plan to use the usual methods to try and find someone to share my life with, but in this day of the internet, I thought I might try something additional, and I wanted to find out what y’all thought. I have no desire to "put on a front".  I think it would be only fair to let a possible partner find out all necessary information about me, with a minimum of effort or embarrassment for all concerned. So my idea was to set up a web page, with my personal details, and if I meet someone who seems to have possibilities, direct them to the site, so they can find out all relevant information.  This way, if I’m not the type they are looking for, it would save time for all concerned. Now the idea of the web page is not to attract possible partners, as I would have no desire or expectation that a random ’surfer’ would happen upon it. The idea again is to point someone I have already met to look at the page. While surfing, I found that I apparently was not the first to come up with this idea, as I have seen pages that seem to be of this type, so the question is: Is this a good idea? Now, after the reception of my "A mountain out of molehill" post, I suppose it might be a good idea to leave out that minor detail, and fill in a possible candidate when the time seems ripe, but other that that, do you think that the idea of a web page is ridiculous , or does it have merit. Any ideas are welcome. Thank you, Simcha Gomez  (a pseudonym)

Response:

Personally I think that life has gotten all too impersonal. It is entirely up to you how you feel about trying something like that. But true Love if there really is such a thing I am not sure you will find it that way. You may find a lot of Golddiggers if you aren’t careful, And careful is what you want to be on the internet. Can’t you go to local coffee shops or take up a new hobby and try to meet people that way? I am certainly not going to recommend a Bar or club. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve got a question about trying again after the end of a 25-year marriage. (I’m a 54-year-old male dumpee).  Naturally, I plan to use the usual methods to try and find someone to share my life with, but in this day of the internet, I thought I might try something additional, and I wanted to find out what y’all thought. I have no desire to "put on a front".  I think it would be only fair to let a possible partner find out all necessary information about me, with a minimum of effort or embarrassment for all concerned. So my idea was to set up a web page, with my personal details, and if I meet someone who seems to have possibilities, direct them to the site, so they can find out all relevant information.  This way, if I’m not the type they are looking for, it would save time for all concerned. Now the idea of the web page is not to attract possible partners, as I would have no desire or expectation that a random ’surfer’ would happen upon it. The idea again is to point someone I have already met to look at the page. While surfing, I found that I apparently was not the first to come up with this idea, as I have seen pages that seem to be of this type, so the question is: Is this a good idea? Now, after the reception of my "A mountain out of molehill" post, I suppose it might be a good idea to leave out that minor detail, and fill in a possible candidate when the time seems ripe, but other that that, do you think that the idea of a web page is ridiculous , or does it have merit. Any ideas are welcome. Thank you, Simcha Gomez  (a pseudonym)

Response:

Yes, I think that would be a good idea, although I would be kind of leary .  I suppose if you write back and forth for a long time and send pictures it would be o.k.   Maybe the web page would give some credibility to you also, for people would be aware of what you like to do for hobbies and pictures of your family would make that person comfortable in writing you.    Oh sure go do it! )

I think it seems like a good idea, too.  But then, I’m a guy, so what do I know about what women want. It just seems like a really thorough personals ad to me.  Instead of "DWM who likes fly-fishing and Harleys seeking beautiful woman with similar interests" he could add his URL.  This way they would be able to find out that he likes fly-fishing in central Oregon and restoring antique Harley engines, as well as his height, weight, a picture, some of his favorite books, and CDs. It seems like it would really save time in weeding out the women who are looking for a rich Adonis.  I would rather be up front with a woman about who I am, what I do, and what I like, than to have to go through an evening, a week, or a month of stress dating while she finds it out, only to dump me, which can be quite painful by itself. I would think it would be a real time- and stress-saver. — Drew

Response:

Yes, I think that would be a good idea, although I would be kind of leary .  I suppose if you write back and forth for a long time and send pictures it would be o.k.   Maybe the web page would give some credibility to you also, for people would be aware of what you like to do for hobbies and pictures of your family would make that person comfortable in writing you.    Oh sure go do it! )

Kim

Response:

Simcha, Yes you can meet people on the internet, if you know what you’re doing. I caution you, though, it is a lot harder for men than women. But I know quite a lot of people who met this way and are happily involved, myself included… Having a web page is a nice touch, provided you don’t make it look like your dating resume and fill it with details about why you are a good catch. That stuff (and I’ve seen a lot) is a real turn-off, unless it can be done with just the right touch of self-effacing humor. If you do a home page, make it something personal that would interest anyone in your life — relatives, friends, colleagues. Instead of merely listing your hobbies and interests resume style, make one or two the centerpiece of your page. I.e., Simcha’s Fly Fishing Web Site… not Simcha’s Chick Fishing Web Site…. get the idea? I’d also recommend leaving off your photo, and sending it out only by request. You want a woman who is attracted to you for your mind, not your looks, right? Still, absolutely nothing beats the personal touch . . . the slow buildup as you reveal details about yourself via email, until finally you swap photos and then plan that first real-life meeting! Meeting over the Internet still requires the same amount of effort on your part, but I feel it has very definite advantages, especially for newly divorced people who can’t face the brutal rejection of the singles scene. It is most ideal for people who can express themselves well in writing. Good luck — and remember, just have fun with it. Dating is not a job search!.;-) jen  

Response:

Simcha, Why don’t you send in your photo and your bio to either me or Lee, that way you will meet others that are in the same situation you are in?  Just an idea. Daisy Add variety to your sex life, use the other hand. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve got a question about trying again after the end of a 25-year marriage. (I’m a 54-year-old male dumpee).  Naturally, I plan to use the usual methods to try and find someone to share my life with, but in this day of the internet, I thought I might try something additional, and I wanted to find out what y’all thought. I have no desire to "put on a front".  I think it would be only fair to let a possible partner find out all necessary information about me, with a minimum of effort or embarrassment for all concerned. So my idea was to set up a web page, with my personal details, and if I meet someone who seems to have possibilities, direct them to the site, so they can find out all relevant information.  This way, if I’m not the type they are looking for, it would save time for all concerned. Now the idea of the web page is not to attract possible partners, as I would have no desire or expectation that a random ’surfer’ would happen upon it. The idea again is to point someone I have already met to look at the page. While surfing, I found that I apparently was not the first to come up with this idea, as I have seen pages that seem to be of this type, so the question is: Is this a good idea? Now, after the reception of my "A mountain out of molehill" post, I suppose it might be a good idea to leave out that minor detail, and fill in a possible candidate when the time seems ripe, but other that that, do you think that the idea of a web page is ridiculous , or does it have merit. Any ideas are welcome. Thank you, Simcha Gomez  (a pseudonym)

Response:

Question:

I,m interested in purchasing a kickboat for fly fishing the rivers of western Montana. What are features you can’t live without and what are the features that aren’t used or needed at all.

I got a bucks bronco.  Reasons why: a. Stainless steel frame b. adjustable foot pegs (especially important if you are going to run moving water or are taller or shorter than the mythical "average") Things I don’t like: a. LOTS of places for your line to snag, especially when casting across your body (which you will do if you use it on a lake in the wind and don’t anchor) New developments: a. They just came out with a 10 foot pontoon. I wasn’t overly impressed with the "all metal back deck" available on some of the boats on the market.  Other than that There aren’t many "features" that vary between boats.  Most are rocker designs, have a seat, oarlocks, and a stripping apron.

Response:

I,m interested in purchasing a kickboat for fly fishing the rivers of western Montana.   (Bitteroot, Blackfoot, Clark Fork).  There is some sizable water here and I’m looking for advice from someone experienced with the small craft.  I’m looking for a pontoon style, but curious to know what is best…8′, 9′, or bigger.  What are features you can’t live without and what are the features that aren’t used or needed at all. Thanks, Tom

Response:

I,m interested in purchasing a kickboat for fly fishing the rivers of western Montana. What are features you can’t live without and what are the features that aren’t used or needed at all.

I’ve used the Bucks Bronco and like the newer models a lot.  I own a JW Outfitters Voyager and it is one tough boat that can handle Class III water with ease.

Response:

I,m interested in purchasing a kickboat for fly fishing the rivers of western Montana. (Bitteroot, Blackfoot, Clark Fork).  There is some sizable water here and I’m looking for advice from someone experienced with the small craft.  I’m looking for a pontoon style, but curious to know what is best…8′, 9′, or bigger.  What are features you can’t live without and what are the features that aren’t used or needed at all. Thanks, Tom

Tom: I also have a Buck’s Bronco and also bought it partly because of the stainless frame.  My *only* minor complaint is the ratchet mechanism for the anchor.  Either mine doesn’t operate correctly or I’ve never figured out how to use it right.  It really doesn’t drop the anchor very easily. Other than that, I love the thing.  I’ve used it on streams here in Utah as well as Idaho & Wyoming and it’s great.  It has 8′ pontoons and I’ve had it on the Green, the Snake, and the South Fork, all pretty good-sized streams. I always wear a life vest, partly because I’m still not that experienced a boatman.  My dream is to take it on a camping float in Alaska. Good storage capacity, easy to inflate & deflate, sturdy and well-built.  If I deflate it about 3/4 of the way, it will slide fully-assembled right in the back of my SUV so carrying it is a breeze.  It really doesn’t even take long at all to figure out the rowing/kicking/maneuvering. I would say that you will occasionally find yourself pointed a different direction from where you want to cast (I do, anyway), but that can be part of the fun. Bob Bob

Response:

Look into the Outcast PAC line. The 8′ and 10′ are great. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I,m interested in purchasing a kickboat for fly fishing the rivers of western Montana.   (Bitteroot, Blackfoot, Clark Fork).  There is some sizable water here and I’m looking for advice from someone experienced with the small craft.  I’m looking for a pontoon style, but curious to know what is best…8′, 9′, or bigger.  What are features you can’t live without and what are the features that aren’t used or needed at all. Thanks, Tom

Response:

I,m interested in purchasing a kickboat for fly fishing the rivers of western Montana.   (Bitteroot, Blackfoot, Clark Fork).  There is some sizable water here and I’m looking for advice from someone experienced with the small craft.  I’m looking for a pontoon style, but curious to know what is best…8′, 9′, or bigger.  What are features you can’t live without and what are the features that aren’t used or needed at all. Thanks, Tom

Tom:  I’ve used the Buck’s Bag Bronco and Southfork models on the Clark Fork and Bitteroot, and they have been great, although other brands no doubt will to the job.  They have 7ft pontoons, I think (haven’t measured).  Have taken them through some pretty rough water as well. Never felt the need for an anchor or a stripping apron, although the rear deck is perfect for a cooler.  Have fun – you will love it. Mark Faulkner

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I,m interested in purchasing a kickboat for fly fishing the rivers of western Montana. What are features you can’t live without and what are the features that aren’t used or needed at all. I got a bucks bronco.  Reasons why: a. Stainless steel frame b. adjustable foot pegs (especially important if you are going to run moving water or are taller or shorter than the mythical "average") Things I don’t like: a. LOTS of places for your line to snag, especially when casting across your body (which you will do if you use it on a lake in the wind and don’t anchor) New developments: a. They just came out with a 10 foot pontoon. I wasn’t overly impressed with the "all metal back deck" available on some of the boats on the market.  Other than that There aren’t many "features" that vary between boats.  Most are rocker designs, have a seat, oarlocks, and a stripping apron.

I have a Yukon 2, by Leigh outdoor, and I work there as a part time job.  All of Leighs pontoon boats are made out of aluminum. (no rust) They tend to not be as heavy and are very strong.  We had a guy who came in who wanted one to run white water, he said he liked to fish on the side.  He ran it on the portion of the Snake below Jackson, and loved it.  I guess he ran that stretch 4 times in one day with it.  When he came back in he said that he tried to tip it over on "lunchcounter" or whichever one where the river narrows and is forced between two rock outcroppings. (its really big)  I guess he tried to go through side ways and front ways but to no avail so on the last try he through all of his weight backward and practically stood up on the foot pegs to get it to go over.  He claims he never had so much fun in his life.  It is a very sturdy boat.  Leigh makes a 10 footer for long trips as well.  It is the "gallatin".  The Yukon’s and Green river models are good for up to 3 day trips if you pack right. and are just fine for the 3 or 4 hour trip as well.  They pack down into a space of about 2 1/2 feet by 3 1/2 feet.  You can easily transport 2 in the trunk of a small car.  The unique thing is that the pontoons have a heavy inner tube in them.  (like a truck tube)  and are very durable.  All models have adjustable foot pegs that allows both big and small to be comfortable.  All the paint is powder coated on.   Not to bash other manufacturers but we have had so many calls about a certain manufacturers frames rusting out that our product designer at one time was thinking of making a frame that would fit on the competitors pontoons, but has since decided against doing so.  You don’t want a frame that has the potential to rust on you. Leigh frames carry a lifetime warrenty and are the only Coast Guard Certified pontoon boat that I know of.  They have many models to choose from and all the extra’s you can imagine.  Just find one that suited most to your needs.  If there is ever a problem you can call them and they will go to great lengths to see that you are pleased. When there is a problem and you have an upcomming trip, if they can’t fix it in time they will send you a loaner boat to get you through, until they can get your boat fixed up. Of course I’m not prejudice, I just work there.   They have a site but not all of their boats are listed, but you can call them and they will send you a catalog or tell you where the nearest supplier is or you can E-mail me and I’ll make sure you get a catalog. or http://www.b-mktg.com/leighhp/leighhp.htm or Leigh Outdoor Products 62 S. 950 W.  Brigham City UT 84302 1-435-734-0750 I hope you find the best boat for you. Shaun

Response:

Question:

Grow up and get a life!  If you have a "head in the sand" approach to flyfishing that’s fine, but don’t try to foist it on the rest of us.  Most fly fishers enjoy a variety of approaches to catch, and often release, a variety of fish species.   To each his or her own.

Response:

A nicely weighted nymph, quietly cast upstream, on a dead drift, is truly the only sporting way to pursue the honorable Mr. Trout.                                                        __ john quill taylor                                     / / writer at large                                      / /   Hewlett-Packard, Storage Systems Division    __     /_/ / Boise, Idaho U.S.A.                         /_/  __ _ Telephone: (208) 396-2328 (MST = GMT – 7)     /  \  / Snail Mail: Hewlett-Packard                    / \             11413 Chinden Blvd                 \             Boise, Idaho 83714                   _/             Mailstop 852                            _/                                                   _/       "When in doubt, do as doubters do." – jqt –                   haiti, rwanda, cuba, bosnia, … we have a list,              where is our schindler?

Response:

Question:

   Okay folks!  Just for grins, why don’t we all tell a little about : _where_ we tie our flies!  Have a permanent spot?  Or always breaking out : the stuff, then sweeping away bits of feather and tinsel?  Seen any : clever setups?  What’s the ideal way to store your stuff for ready access? : Enquiring flyfishers want to know!

I use a "Hackle Hutch" table top cabinet I ordered from the Bailey Fly Shop several years ago, but I’m not sure they still make it. For travelling, I use a D.B. Dun travelling case. I love ‘em both. Gary W. Godden/CO.

Response:

       Okay folks!  Just for grins, why don’t we all tell a little about _where_ we tie our flies!

    Before I became interested in fly fishing, I was a band director.  I had a     big drafting desk for charting marching drill.  It now serves as my fly     tying table.  I have, however, outgrown my cardboard box for my materials.     (ha)     Bob

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in response to:  Okay folks!  Just for grins, why don’t we all tell a little about _where_ we tie our flies! I work at my desk at college.  I don’t have any "real" fly tying materials.  I just   use a pair of vise grips and a large book to set on one end to hold it steady.  i   kinda like seeing how little equipment I can get a way with.

Of course, it would be hard (for me) not to mention the infamous Bing Lemke.   Bing passed on several years ago, but there are several books which document his fly tying mastry.  Bing was most famous for the extended body, iwamasa winged may flies he tied . . . in sizes 32, 36 and 38 . . . without a vice!  A photo of Bing’s hands show them to be crusty, callosed, arthritic meat cleavers.  Yet, he was able to pinch the barb of a hook while he wove masterful flies.  He used no bobbin, just pulled a length of thread off a spool and twisted up the smallest, most authentic mayflies you ever saw.  Bing is a standard to be emulated.  I am continually humbled by his memory. Pete Morris

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 Okay folks!  Just for grins, why don’t we all tell a little about _where_ we tie our flies!

For what it’s worth, I like working into a corner (two suspended counter tops at right angles) which makes it easier to hang a waste-basket right below the vice. I also keep an 18×18" blue poster board behind the vise, which reduces eye strain. Ear phones, jolt-cola and chew help keep the production level up too. —

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Wilkinson) writes: <flying tying desk I’ve managed to find happiness with the same Plano box your speak of, mated with a large drafting table. Just the right height, plenty of space. And onsidering the price ($25 at a garage sale), unbeatable. I’m thinking of adding on a cork bulletin board to hand flies on for drying, but can’t bring myself to put holes in the wall I just finished painting last year. JL 8-Wt Editor

I’ve been using an old hard side brief-case for years. It’s been getting pretty full resently. Got a place to mount a vice inside and sits on about any desk or in the car. My problem is, I’ve got kids. If I left the stuff out I know I would be removing hooks and cleaning up all the time. Regards, Marc Cozzi

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 Okay folks!  Just for grins, why don’t we all tell a little about _where_ we tie our flies!

Well, up until this week I was tying at a small drafting table, with a home- made version of a tying table I saw in the Cabell’s catalog on top. I had laid out the original on a piece of cardboard, and rapidly came to the conclusion that the commercially available desks had WAY too little room for my taste! The one I made is 12" deep, 24" long, and has 14 pegs long enough for 3 spools of thread along the back. The arms are 3 inches wide, with two staggered rows of holes for tools…10 per side. Now, as I said, this was till this week… I’ve moved rooms now, and have a dedicated table in the basement, made from a spare closet door! 30" wide, and 6′6" long, with four 6′ shelves above it. I keep my materials in plastic shoe boxes (from the local $1 shop) on the shelves. I’m in heaven! <<grin — Joe Ellis         o/~ The Synthetic Filker o/~ |    TesserAct Studios

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I currently have a large "Lid Locker" tackle box under my desk here at work. At lunch when the mood strikes me, I can set up and zip out several deceivers and Clouser minnows during my lunch hour. I really love the tackle box, plenty of room for my hook collection in the lid, and easy to get to. I do get the occasional funny look from passing workmates though, and sometimes I’ll hand in a report with fine feather down between the pages and cuttings of Krystal Flash, but it’s pretty much become my trademark around here… Kai

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:       Okay folks!  Just for grins, why don’t we all tell a little about : _where_ we tie our flies!  Have a permanent spot?  Or always breaking out : the stuff, then sweeping away bits of feather and tinsel?  Seen any : clever setups?  What’s the ideal way to store your stuff for ready access? : Enquiring flyfishers want to know! Whoops, sorry Scott.  I hit reply instead of followup. Anyway, I use a foot locker (not military but it would work fine) that I modified by building two shallow trays that slip inside and adding outside corner moulding to the top to help keep materials on it when I use it as a tying surface.  It holds "almost" everything and is portable at least to motels and pickup camps.  It doubles as an end table in my office which is furnished about as "mix & match" as you could imagine, so it fits.  I’m pretty happy. Chuck

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: :     Okay folks!  Just for grins, why don’t we all tell a little about : : _where_ we tie our flies!  Have a permanent spot?  Or always breaking out I tied commercially for awhile in my 13′ trailer out in the driveway by lantern.  I kinda liked it.  Now I have a desk that I built and all of my supplies in tupperware boxes that stack.  I built a shelf that is mounted to the wall that has holes in it for the tools (some go all the way through and some only about an inch).  Beats the kitchen table, but I must say that I managed to tie about a billion flies at the ol’ kitchen table, so I guess the moral is not to wait for the ideal setup, but start a’dubbin no matter where you be… Tim Walker

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I am a little late in reading my newsgroup, but if it’s not too late I would like the details of the tying desk. The club I am a member of has a design that is very cheap/inexpensive to build.

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I reverse engineered an almost perfect copy of the Orvis Portable oak tying table from the catalog picture.  Made it from furniture grade oak for about $50 total.  It could easily be made from plywood or laminate for a lot less.  It works great.  Anyone who wants details let me know.

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Wilkinson) writes:

<flying tying desk I’ve managed to find happiness with the same Plano box your speak of, mated with a large drafting table. Just the right height, plenty of space. And onsidering the price ($25 at a garage sale), unbeatable. I’m thinking of adding on a cork bulletin board to hand flies on for drying, but can’t bring myself to put holes in the wall I just finished painting last year. JL 8-Wt Editor

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:       Okay folks!  Just for grins, why don’t we all tell a little about : _where_ we tie our flies!  Have a permanent spot?  Or always breaking out <Scotts situation deleted I used to have to break out  equipment and you know I always forgot something. Then one day I arrived home to find the most horrible piece of furniture sitting enticingly under a large window with the westering sun streaming on to it’s laminated surface and what’s more it’s in the LIVING room (true dinks!). My SO (bless her cotton socks) had gone a purchased a $20 dollar desk from a junk shop. The living room placement has advantages and disadvantages:         – you can be sociable and still tie                 (although people like to look over your shoulder)         – She can always find you         – Pets like to help (especially the Cats)         – and you can keep an ear on the "game" and monitor the answering machine. With 4 large drawers for finished flies, hackles, fur and feathers and a pair of those plastic multi-drawer boxes and a small desk lamp – not quite paradise but good enough in the interim. Left covered in the detritus of a tying session the singular unattractiveness of the desk is almost hidden steve Melbourne, Australia

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   Okay folks!  Just for grins, why don’t we all tell a little about _where_ we tie our flies!

A few years ago I chanced across an old, oak library cardfile.  It has 60 drawers and 3 pull-out leaves at mid-level.  Unlike most card files, this one’s drawers have solid bottoms and a recessed rod for holding the gizmo designed to keep the cards upright.  The drawers are just wide enough for a nice neck.  I picked this up for $200.  It is certainly not a piece of furniture for a newbie.  It’s big and heavy, but it is great to be able to organize everything. Glad I have a home office to keep this thing in! Pete Morris

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 Okay folks!  Just for grins, why don’t we all tell a little about _where_ we tie our flies!

Still working at the dining room table, unfortunately.   However, The wife is looking for Xmas suggestions.  

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –    Okay folks!  Just for grins, why don’t we all tell a little about _where_ we tie our flies!  Have a permanent spot?  Or always breaking out the stuff, then sweeping away bits of feather and tinsel?  Seen any clever setups?  What’s the ideal way to store your stuff for ready access? Enquiring flyfishers want to know!    Oh yes…we’re talking "budget" here, unless you know of a specially-made desk that worth the $$$!    I’ll start off by saying for months I’ve been searching for an ideal "on-the-road" fly tying kit…I finally found what works pretty darn well: a Plano "Phantom Pro" tackle box!  It’s one of the giant "BASSMASTER" kinds (made to hold 10,000 plugs ‘n spinners).  This particular model is good for fly tiers, though, because it has a spacious top compartment plenty big enough for your vise and all your hackle capes. Then, the front panel opens out, then slides _under_ the 4 compartment drawers…so it doesn’t get in the way when you set the whole thing on a table to tie.  Got mine for $40 at the local Sports Authority store.    Otherwise, I just found an old desk in the basement of our neighborhood church that the minister said I could have…it’s not very pretty, but looks great for tying!  It’s a "semi-rolltop," meaning it has two rolltop compartments on either side, with the usual cubbyholes and drawers in the middle.    A friend has a full-fledged rolltop, which is great for just hiding the whole mess when guests arrive!    What do YOU do? —      //\ Scott Wilkinson                           "No one suspects      \// Independent Documentary Producer         the days to be gods."      //\ Bethesda, Maryland      \// (301)229-4742                                —Emerson

I’m sorry, but I have the ultimate.  We have an extra bedroom in my house which I adopted as my office.  Pulled up the stupid carpet, re-finished the hardwood floor and re-painted the walls.  By one wall I have a big old steel military desk with my computer and work references.  On the opposite wall I have a 2.5′ x 8′ peice of hardwood veneer plywood stretched across 2 short file cabinets (Yes, I had to get a banister post to serve as a leg in the middle) to serve as my fly tying bench.  I have a small bookshelf on the desk for my fishing books, and all my materials are filed in shoe boxes by material, then color, in order across my fly desk.  I also have those hardware organiser drawer things for odds and ends.  Under the desk I have boxes of spare bird skins and other larger things, and in the closet hang my entire large animal hydes (currently deer and sheep).  The rest of the closet has my fishing bags and rod collection.  I never have to clean it up, I just shut the door to keep out kids (when they visit, I don’t have any yet myself).  I have a large area to work  too.  I like to invite friends over to tie with me, and there’s room for 2 people with vises to sit at this thing.  The best part is that I have a big oak and leather rolling chair in the middle.  When I work at the computer, I set the computer to do a long job, turn around and tie a fly.  Then when the computer is ready I work until the computer is stuck calculating another long function when I just swing around and tie another fly.  Never a wasted moment here.  I can just work for hours like this. . Sorry to brag.  Hope many others out there get something as nice or better. . Lenny Blokberg . .

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        Okay folks!  Just for grins, why don’t we all tell a little about _where_ we tie our flies!  Have a permanent spot?  Or always breaking out the stuff, then sweeping away bits of feather and tinsel?  Seen any clever setups?  What’s the ideal way to store your stuff for ready access? Enquiring flyfishers want to know!         Oh yes…we’re talking "budget" here, unless you know of a specially-made desk that worth the $$$!         I’ll start off by saying for months I’ve been searching for an ideal "on-the-road" fly tying kit…I finally found what works pretty darn well: a Plano "Phantom Pro" tackle box!  It’s one of the giant "BASSMASTER" kinds (made to hold 10,000 plugs ‘n spinners).  This particular model is good for fly tiers, though, because it has a spacious top compartment plenty big enough for your vise and all your hackle capes. Then, the front panel opens out, then slides _under_ the 4 compartment drawers…so it doesn’t get in the way when you set the whole thing on a table to tie.  Got mine for $40 at the local Sports Authority store.         Otherwise, I just found an old desk in the basement of our neighborhood church that the minister said I could have…it’s not very pretty, but looks great for tying!  It’s a "semi-rolltop," meaning it has two rolltop compartments on either side, with the usual cubbyholes and drawers in the middle.         A friend has a full-fledged rolltop, which is great for just hiding the whole mess when guests arrive!         What do YOU do? —      //\ Scott Wilkinson                           "No one suspects      \// Independent Documentary Producer         the days to be gods."      //\ Bethesda, Maryland      \// (301)229-4742                                —Emerson

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