Question:

Fishing in Chili. January/ Februari 2003 I want to visit Chili specially for fly fishing. Who can give me information about the fishing licenses. By example, do you need for every river a special license or just only a state license? Is it possibility to fish teh most river or is it private? Are ther also campgrounds and is it aloud to camp across the rivers. where can I rend a car for a resonableness price? Every information is very welkom, by e-mail or by post office box. thank you very very much. Marty Maas Eikenhof 11 5243 RJ Rosmalen The Netherlands.

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Fishing in Chili

I hear the fishing can be real hot

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JeffC wrote… I hear the fishing can be real hot

Only if you are using habenero flies. — Warren change addy to yahoo for email Henry’s Fork Clave info and Bozeman, MT fishing info http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt3/HFclave.html

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Research and look up Jim Repine who has a lodge on the Futalafu River in Chili.  He can line you out with everything you need to know. George Gehrke http://www.gink.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Fishing in Chili. January/ Februari 2003 I want to visit Chili specially for fly fishing. Who can give me information about the fishing licenses. By example, do you need for every river a special license or just only a state license? Is it possibility to fish teh most river or is it private? Are ther also campgrounds and is it aloud to camp across the rivers. where can I rend a car for a resonableness price? Every information is very welkom, by e-mail or by post office box. thank you very very much. Marty Maas Eikenhof 11 5243 RJ Rosmalen The Netherlands.

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Question:

First of all, do not attempt to attribute things to me that I did not say, by incorrect interpretation.  My reply to the original post read: "I wonder why somebody does not shoot you.  It would be an act of kindness to humanity." This is not open to interpretation. The statement is clear and complete, there is no ambiguity.

I agree that it’s clear.  An "act of kindness to humanity" is "good". You offered me useless, condescending,  and unsolicited advice…

On the contrary, I implied you had something good to offer when you post fly fishing information.  What you perceived as advice was actually a lighthearted way of saying I don’t approve of what you said.  As I’m sure you’d agree, there are times when something disagreeable is said in ROFF, and times when someone feels compelled to speak against it.  Perhaps I should have replaced the lighthearted, tongue-in-cheek tone of voice in the post with a simple "that was uncalled for and I don’t like it."  Then you couldn’t interpret it as condescending, or advice.  It was a statement of disapproval, nothing more.  …There are no "lines" here, which have not already long since been crossed, as people never tire of reiterating.

I think George clearly "crossed the line" when he wished Charlie Choc dead. If someone hadn’t flamed him for it first, I would have.  Let’s keep things in perspective.  We are talking about George Gerhke, not Timothy McVeigh. Timothy McVeigh deserves to die. This is an extremely  serious personal confrontation between myself, and another person. It is being carried out here because this is where it started, and because it is also of general interest.

If it is of general interest, then why would you tell me to keep out of it? If it’s personal, then why is it in public?

Response:

At this particular point I would like to take the opportunity of apologising to Jeff Connelly.  It was not my intention to be quite so personally insulting towards you. Upon reading the post again, I was indeed a little harsh on you, and there was no reason to jump on you like that. The sentiments expressed reflect my thoughts exactly, but it was unfair to direct them at you personally. I know you basically meant well. Please accept my apologies.

Accepted.  I apologize for sounding like a wise guy.  My intent wasn’t to be condescending, it was: "I think that kind of talk is out of line."  I’d say the same thing no matter who said it.  I think you and I basically feel the same way about things around here.

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I think George clearly "crossed the line" when he wished Charlie Choc dead. If someone hadn’t flamed him for it first, I would have.  Let’s keep things in perspective.  We are talking about George Gerhke, not Timothy McVeigh. Timothy McVeigh deserves to die.

Jeez Connelly, what planet do you live on?  Get a grip man.  Wishing someone dead is not an uncommon thing.  It’s something everyone has longed for at one time or another, and it doesn’t make one evil, uncaring, or even noteworthy.  Each and every one of us deserves to die in someone’s estimation.  Big deal.  Let’s keep thing in perspective here; it’s not as if he wants to deprive him of the right to vote or something. Wolfgang

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Jeez Connelly, what planet do you live on?  Get a grip man.  Wishing someone dead is not an uncommon thing.  It’s something everyone has longed for at one time or another, and it doesn’t make one evil, uncaring, or even noteworthy.  Each and every one of us deserves to die in someone’s estimation.  Big deal.  Let’s keep thing in perspective here; it’s not as if he wants to deprive him of the right to vote or something.

Wolfgang, why don’t you just shrivel up and die.  Hey, that felt good!  Can I have your fly tying stuff?

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I only wonder if the FBI Agent that shot the little baby and the mother though the screen door AT RUBY RIDGE will be at Timothy McVeigh’s side holding the last needle clamp? My question is this.  What is the point?  If anyone thinks this execution is going to make people feel good, I don’t think so. I wouldn’t be surprised if McVeigh sneers or smiles at everyone before the State kills him.  But what is his point?  What is the message Timothy McVeigh has been trying to get across?  If anyone has an opinion? I wonder, in some strange way, if society may end up making him a martyr agaisn’t the politically incorrect?  Usually, there is an eye for an eye, a tooth for a tooth, a crime for a crime? What a mess.  Exactly, what the hell is going on?  This man doesn’t care if they kill him.  He is going to his death, satisfied and convinced it was worth it all.  But?  WHAT was worth it?  What is his motive and will it pay off in the long run IF there IS a light at the end of the McVeigh tunnel/mystery? Strange? http://www.msnbc.com/news/557958.asp — George Gehrke   "All’s Fair With Fur or Feather" (gg) http://www.gink.com/chat  questions & answers site 7 PM Weekdays Pacific Time

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I only wonder if the FBI Agent that shot the little baby and the mother though the screen door AT RUBY RIDGE will be at Timothy McVeigh’s side holding the last needle clamp?

You who have so much knowledge of things concerning flyfishing insist on posting not only off-topic stuff, but subjects you know will start a controversy with you right in the middle, I suspect right where you want to be. First off, this dipshit killed 168 innocent people, none who had a damned thing to do with Ruby Ridge, and he deserves to die.  That he apparently has a death wish (or wants to be seen as a martyr) is of no consequence in these proceedings. Secondly George, it is not the State of Indiana who is killing him, it is the US Government, the place of execution just happens to be in Terre Haute, IN. not that I give a crap where he dies. Frank Church

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snipped to save room: Secondly George, it is not the State of Indiana who is killing him, it is the US Government, the place of execution just happens to be in Terre Haute, IN. not that I give a crap where he dies. Frank Church

I’m sure not many people do.  You’re right about it being a Federal Case.   Just forget it.  You’re right. — George Gehrke   "All’s Fair With Fur or Feather" (gg) http://www.gink.com/chat  questions & answers site 7 PM Weekdays Pacific Time

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I wonder why somebody does not shoot you.  It would be an act of kindness to humanity. MC

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I wonder why somebody does not shoot you.  It would be an act of kindness to humanity.

Slack off Mike before you become what you hate.  Find your way back to the fly fishing posts where you can do some good.  I’m sure your stretched blood vessels will thank you in the morning.

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Slack off Mike before you become what you hate.  Find your way back to the fly fishing posts where you can do some good.  I’m sure your stretched blood vessels will thank you in the morning.

You just do not get it, do you? I must have done something really special at one time or another to deserve all the wonderful free advice I am getting lately. In order to become anything even remotely resembling Gehrke, to whom I assume you are referring, I would require, at the very least, a frontal lobotomy, a minimum forty years of practice at being the biggest arsehole extant, and my balls cut off. Even then, it is still doubtful whether I could ever be evil, dishonourable, or stupid enough to fill the bill. One last time, I do not hate Gehrke.  It is not possible for a sensible man to hate a thing. I did not hate the dog that bit my wife once, right outside our house, I simply destroyed it before it could bite her or anybody else again. I jumped on it and  broke its neck, although it also bit me twice in the arms. At least two ineffectual wankers who were present, including the owner of the beast, complained about that too, and attempted to prevent me from grabbing the animal in the first place. They can thank their lucky stars they did not cause me any real problems, or really get in my way, especially as my wife was still bleeding badly from the bite when the police arrived some time afterwards. All the stupid bastards could do was moan about the poor dog. Even the policemen were disgusted at them, especially after seeing the wound in my wife

Question:

My buddy and I want to schedule our first trip out west to flyfish for trout.Spring or summer will be the plan. We will probably hire guides most of the time. We are looking for suggestions on where you guys would go if you had the chance.I have been saving for a long time to travel out west to fish for good size trout. I have been flyfishing for 15 years and have never fished west of New York. I am not looking for the most expensive trip but I dont mind spending some money for a quality experience. Thanks in advance br

Response:

Go to Ennis Montana from July 21-31.  It should be a lot of fun and very good fishing.  Other ROFFians will be there.  Check it out at the following url http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/sp_ROFF_people/wclave/wclave.html — Vern Before you buy.

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Why not try coming the the Northwest?  Here in British Columbia we have ton’s ‘o’ trout, even some bass, and lots of secluded lakes and rivers to try.  Plus the Canuck buck is cheap for you guys.  If I had the time and money I’d hit the Elk and St. Mary’s river systems in July, do some lake fishing "anywhere", but if you stick to the Kootenays, there’s Whitetail Lake and a number of other "trophy lakes" that are reasonably accessible. Check out www.anglingbc.com  or  www.sportfishingbc.com   or www.bcadventure.com   for some links and fishing guides or lodges. Cheers.

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Bruce,     The fishing in the Southwest corner of Montana is terrific.  I fish the Beaverhead, the Ruby, and the Big hole.  All have proved to be very good to me.  I have a friend who guides with Frontier Anglers out of Dillon Montana. His name is Garey Avis.  He has hooked me up with many nice fish.  If you are interested I could pass along his home phone number.     Make the trip, you’ll be glad you did. "Catch you Later" David Lloyd

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My buddy and I want to schedule our first trip out west to flyfish for trout.Spring or summer will be the plan. We will probably hire guides most of the time. We are looking for suggestions on where you guys would go if you had the chance.I have been saving for a long time to travel out west to fish for good size trout. I have been flyfishing for 15 years and have never fished west of New York. I am not looking for the most expensive trip but I dont mind spending some money for a quality experience. Thanks in advance br

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The fishing in the Southwest corner of Montana is terrific.  I fish the Beaverhead, the Ruby, and the Big hole.  All have proved to be very good to me.

Not any more.  The fish are all gone due to whirling disease.  The only fish left are the secret stashes I have and will only reveal to those that show up at the Western Conclave in Ennis (Jul 21-31) Warren Western Conclave Guru For info: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/sp_ROFF_people/wclave/wclave.html

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I just received my "Fly-Fishing" magazine yesterday.  In it they have a good article about Henry’s Fork which is just across the south- western state line of Montana. According to "Fly-Fishing" magazine, the Henry’s Fork has rebounded to become one of the best fly-fishing rivers in America.  In fact, "Sports Afield" rated Henry’s Fork in their April 1999 issue as one of the top fly-fishing rivers in the USA and "Trout" magazine recently rated Henry’s Fork as the BEST trout stream in America. (I know that the names of the magazines should not be in quotation marks but underlined or italicized instead.  However, I don’t have that ability when using deja.com) I know that Henry’s Fork is not in Montana, but it is almost in Montana.  At least, it’s on the same place of the globe. I’m going to fish Henry’s Fork on August 1 after the western conclave. If any of you have a little extra time after the western conclave, join me.  It should be fun. — Vern ROFF page: http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/ResortRd/v_deloy/ROFFintro.html Before you buy.

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I’d recommend the Green River just below the Flaming Gorge Dam down to Little Hole in NE Utah.  Fantastic fishing along with spectacular scenery. Rich Utah Fish Finder http://www.utahfishfinder.com/flyfishing.shtml

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Rich wrote I’d recommend the Green River just below the Flaming Gorge Dam down to Little Hole in NE Utah.  Fantastic fishing along with spectacular

scenery. I really like section A of the Green too, but pack your elbow grease. You’ll need it for rubbin up next to the guy upstream and downstream from you. —                                                       -dnc-

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It really depends on what you’re looking for…and sometimes, where there are lot of trout – there are also lots of people. You may want to try Northwest Montana as an option (lots of trout and not many people) – The Kootenai River (45 minutes south) has some great troutfishing – a couple of years ago a 30+ pound rainbow was caught! In addition, in our area – just to the west of Glacier Park – there are plenty of local trout lakes, rivers, streams, and higher alpine lakes that are tremendous…I enjoy fishing them because I’m usually the only person in the area – and they produce great rainbow and native cutthroat trout. On the Kootenai River – I would recommend Dave Blackburn (see the link on my links page) – he knows the river extremely well.  Several of the other lakes and streams are accessible by forest service trails – and are well marked – there really isn’t a need for a guide. Good luck on finding that special place! Keith and Dona The Montana Cabin http://www.TheMontanaCabin.com Rich wrote I’d recommend the Green River just below the Flaming Gorge Dam down to Little Hole in NE Utah.  Fantastic fishing along with spectacular scenery. I really like section A of the Green too, but pack your elbow grease. You’ll need it for rubbin up next to the guy upstream and downstream from you. —                                                       -dnc-

Before you buy.

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I really like section A of the Green too, but pack your elbow grease. You’ll need it for rubbin up next to the guy upstream and downstream from you.

You can skip the elbow grease if you fish downstream of little hole, but even then, plan on hiking several miles to escape the hordes. Stay upstream of red creek, especially if rain is in the forecast. — Rusty Hook Laramie, Wyo Before you buy.

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–                                                       -dnc- Rusty Hook wrote I really like section A of the Green too, but pack your elbow grease. You’ll need it for rubbin up next to the guy upstream and downstream from you. You can skip the elbow grease if you fish downstream of little hole, but even then, plan on hiking several miles to escape the hordes. Stay upstream of red creek, especially if rain is in the forecast.

Thanks for the advice.  I’ll be there in May.  I threaten to try the B section every year but still have not, maybe this year.  Red Creek is downstream from Little Hole I take it.  Is this a safety warning (like, if it rains too much it may be difficult to get home) or just a fishing warning (like, if it’s raining, Red Creek turns the Green to Red)?

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Question:

Okay gang, what would be on your ideal fly fishing web site?  And what sites come close to your ideal? Jeff

Thosands of people should reveal their honey holes, and no one should be able to access the site but me. — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)

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Okay gang, what would be on your ideal fly fishing web site?  And what sites come close to your ideal? Jeff

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Okay gang, what would be on your ideal fly fishing web site?  

Tech stuff: 1. Smart technology design, made to maximize usability on different client configurations. No Frames, No Java, No Java script, No Banners, No animated gifs, No excessive graphics, No risky and non fail-gracefully code, No excessive tables, No overdoing lay-out with html – settle for structure. 2. Universal non-plattform specific readability in terms of fonts and colors. 3. Keep it simple! 99 of a hundred trying to be fancy end up looking like complete and utter imbeciles. Let your content speak for it self, don’t fuck it up with bad design decisions. 4. Do not split long pages into several small ones (common sense applies, though). 5. Make it fast and effortless for visitors to figure out the structure of your website, latest updates and contents (search-engine, what’s new-overview, site map). Do not make your site look cool for the uninterested drooling 7-year old who will visit your site once or twice. Make it functional for your frequent visitors. Read this: http://photo.net/wtr/thebook/ And check out http://www.w3.org/ as well. That is the easy part, now the hard stuff. Content guidelines: 1. Only do stuff you or your staff is knowledgeable on. 2. Do things well and complete, or don’t do them at all. You get no extra points for putting it on the web. The Internet is 20 years old and maturing every minute (ROFF excepted of course . Sucky things aren’t cool any longer just because they are on the web, they just suck. 3. Allow feedback and publicly available comments on everything (interactive). Share what you know, and let others share what they know related to your site. 4. Update regularly. Don’t suddenly take a 6 month absence without notice. Be committed, and stay that way. Content: Firstly, take a look at the major search engines, and see what sites are out there. A million or two. Find anything missing? Or a concept that could be substantially improved upon by you? 1. I couldn’t give a rat’s ass about another site set out to help newbies figure the most basic things. There are plenty of those already (I assume). 2. Neither do I pursue sites which focuses on technical fly fishing stuff, like hatches, insects, knots, rods, technique etc. Of course, an extensive site of this would be interesting, and definitively worthy of a bookmark, and be used as a reference. If the site is somewhat less then really really really great (which will require insane amounts of work), it’s not interesting to me at all. Remember, hundreds of books has been written on these subjects by very knowledgeable people. Be better, or be gone. 3. I want personal stuff. I like pictures and I enjoy stories. I want someone who is adept at writing to share his thoughts and experiences with me. I may be a weirdo, but I tremendously enjoy reading other people’s stories from fly fishing outings/trips. I want to know how they feel, what they are thinking, what happens etc, almost like a diary. Be willing to share. You can probably tell me very little about fly fishing, but you can probably tell me very much about yourself as a fly fisherman. Write a book about it, and put the chapters on your website. Offer intelligent and lengthy stuff. Screw those who gets a headache from reading more than a few minutes straight. Write it so good, that non-fly fishers will enjoy it as well. 4. Be humble, and expect nothing in return. 5. Write in Norwegian, so I can fully enjoy the subtle linguistic concept. (ok, this one is rather optional) That’s how the ideal fly fishing web site is to me. Quite easy, actually. Make one, and I’ll visit regularly, if I like your style. — Christian Figenschou – <URL: http://figen.com

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Question:

Thanks. I’d love to go there, maybe next year! Miikeh – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Very Nice,         maybe some day I will see my local waters (On your site)   like Hat creek or the Pit River.

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If anyone is intersted, I have a new fly fishing site.  It’s nothing fancy, but I would appreciate any input or suggestions.  It has lots of pictures of streams I fish near my home in Minneapolis and other streams out west.  I also will be posting the current stream conditions for spots as I fish ‘em. http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/mmhodg/ Thanks. MikeH

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Very Nice,          maybe some day I will see my local waters (On your site)    like Hat creek or the Pit River.

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Question:

ZAKANY wrote Since your lawn is new, I would caution against using any weed killer on it this year, or early next year. New lawns usually look poor the first year. For crabgrass, I prefer using a pre-emergent. Thus, I would have you wait to address the crabgrass for two years. Broadleaf weeds, however, can be taken care of about one year from now. Until then, water, overseed, and fertilize your grass/weed mixture.

I agree, especially on the point of giving a new lawn time to establish. Crab grass really don’t compete that much with a lawn–new or old. It comes from a problem or condition (such as being new) with the lawn itself. Occasionally, dry spots that develop in spring will be filled with crab grass by late summer. Yet, the next year, with more rain or better watering, the same spots will have no crab grass problems at all. I have never even bothered with a pre-emergent. Naturally, crab grass pops up here and there but it never takes over provided I have given the lawn reasonable care in the spring and early summer. Also, seeding new lawns in the fall is a good way of minimizing most any weed problems.   -Paul

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Keep on watering and mowing very regularly (and deeply on the watering.).   Put out some fresh grass seed just before watering if you remember it.  The lawn grass will outgrow the crabgrass and it’ll all look great in about a year, maybe two at most.  If you can handle it, mow every 5 days, whether it looks as if it needs it or not.  Most people seem to mow once a week, because it’s an easy way to remember when to do it, but 5 days is the best.  Even on a weekly mowing schedule, it’ll still look good way sooner than you’d think possible. Try to water once a week for about 6 to 8 hours at a time.  Helps the grasses put their roots way down and keeps them surviving hot and dry times. Don’t bother to pull the crabgrass.  For one thing, it’s helping hold the soil until the regular grasses can take over their rightful place. I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed.  I now have 65% crab grass and 10% weed and the rest lawn.  I need an inexpensive way to deal with this crab grass.  I am ready to give up on this whole lawn thing and just put crushed stone or something…  I live in RI (New England). Please help.  -Joe —– To reply by e-mail, remove the "XXX" from the above e-mail address.

"If I die of curiosity, who will entertain you with naive questions?"  I only answer my mail on an average of once every two months.  Be patient.  http://www.visi.com/~cyli/

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<<<I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed. <<  Crab grass seed is pervasive but doesn’t germinate easily under mulch or a healthy lawn.  In lawn you can stop most weed germination by applying a preemergent such as HALTS in the spring or kill adult (younger is better) crabgrass by spraying with a selective "Crabgrass Killer" product that won’t harm most other grasses. Since your lawn is new, I would caution against using any weed killer on it this year, or early next year. New lawns usually look poor the first year. For crabgrass, I prefer using a pre-emergent. Thus, I would have you wait to address the crabgrass for two years. Broadleaf weeds, however, can be taken care of about one year from now. Until then, water, overseed, and fertilize your grass/weed mixture. Mistakes are the Portals to Discovery…and Ridicule

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I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed.  I now have 65% crab grass and 10% weed and the rest lawn.  I need an inexpensive way to deal with this crab grass.  I am ready to give up on this whole lawn thing and just put crushed stone or something…  I live in RI (New  England).

  Crab grass seed is pervasive but doesn’t germinate easily under mulch or a healthy lawn.  In lawn you can stop most weed germination by applying a preemergent such as HALTS in the spring or kill adult (younger is better) crabgrass by spraying with a selective "Crabgrass Killer" product that won’t harm most other grasses. — Lloyd Fortney http://www.phy.duke.edu/~fortney/ has links to my garden, flower, flyfishing, and travel JPEG images as well as teaching, research, and stuff like that

Response:

I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed.  I now have 65% crab grass and 10% weed and the rest lawn.  I need an inexpensive way to deal with this crab grass.  I am ready to give up on this whole lawn thing and just put crushed stone or something…  I live in RI (New  England). Please help.  -Joe —– To reply by e-mail, remove the "XXX" from the above e-mail address.

Response:

I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed.  I now have 65% crab grass and 10% weed and the rest lawn.  I need an inexpensive way to deal with this crab grass.  I am ready to give up on this whole lawn thing and just put crushed stone or something…  I live in RI (New England). Please help.  -Joe

Joe, I hate to have you go through all of that work again, but this would be my suggestion. Till up the "lawn" again.  Then water it very good.  Let the weeds and crabgrass grow for a week or two, then till again.  Water heavily and let it grow for another week or two.  Then till again.  I would suggest repeating this process until late august/early september when the temperatures start to break.  The idea is to bring up as many of the weed seeds as possible, let them germinate and then kill them by tilling them up.   If the area is small you might even want to try soil solorization seperately or in conjunction with the tilling.  Just lay down clear plastic sheeting over the area that was tilled and/or  watered heavily. The high heat and moisture under the sheeting will help the weed seeds germinate more quickly and then will burn them out with the intense heat and sunlight.  This is really only good if you are going to have some nice sunny, warm weather in the near future. A day or so after the last tilling rake out all of the dead stuff that you can get out.  You may wish to do this after every tilling before watering again, but it will probably depend upon how much time you have.  Once you have raked out all of the debris possible, grade the lawn and reseed with a good disease resistant grass seed mix (try to find a hybrid name not a common grass seed).  Use Kentucky Bluegrass and/or Perennial Rye for sunny areas and Fine Fescue for shaded areas. You may want to topdress the lawn with some good topsoil and then fertilizer with a good organic fertilizer.  I use a liquid seaweed and fish emulsion mix which is good as a foliar feed or as a soil prep. Keep the grass watered well for the next couple of weeks.  Make sure that the soil is moist most of the time, but no puddles.  Once the lawn begins to establish itself (after a few weeks), begin watering more deeply and less often.  This will encourage deeper root growth which will help the plant withstand the first frosts. In the spring cut your lawn once before it even turns green.  Just take off the very tips of the blades.  Then wait until the lawn is of regular mowing height before cutting again.  This will encourage an early start and will help you beat the weeds.  Mow the lawn long (about 2 1/2 to 3 inches).  This will help shade the ground and keep many weed seeds from germinating in the first place.  Then make sure to bag your lawn clippings when any weeds that may pop up begin to go to seed.  This will prevent these seeds from being a nuisance later. I recommend overseeding the lawn each fall for a few years.  This, along with organic mowing methods described above and a good organic fertilizer program will eventually crowd out your weeds and provide for a nice, thick turf. Regards, Michael Kaufman Organic Lawncare Specialist <http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/klawncare/welcome.htm "Organic Fertilizer and Other Products / ‘FREE’ Organic Lawncare Tips"

Response:

I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed.  I now have 65% crab grass and 10% weed and the rest lawn.  I need an inexpensive way to deal with this crab grass.  I am ready to give up on this whole lawn thing and just put crushed stone or something…  I live in RI (New  England). Please help.  -Joe —– To reply by e-mail, remove the "XXX" from the above e-mail address.

Hi Joe.  I’d suggest you contact the U of RI Cooperative Extension office nearest you.  Try to get their publication(s) on turf grasses. They should have them–most states do.  Then follow directions, consulting an extension agent if necessary.  They are very helpful ordinarily.  John Reiner

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Question:

Can anyone give me some information or hints about fishing for N. Pike in Sweden ? I’ve heard about pike fishing in the Baltic sea, but can’t find any information about it… Gertjan Gertjan Doedens The Netherlands

Response:

Can anyone give me some information or hints about fishing for N. Pike in Sweden ? I’ve heard about pike fishing in the Baltic sea, but can’t find any information about it… Gertjan

Try some of these sites for more info, but I know most of the pike fishing in the Baltic is lure fishing from boats with very little bait fishing.  If you need anymore help, e mail me direct as I have a few articles in mags here that cover the pike fishing in the Baltic. <UL <LI<A HREF="http://www.algonet.se/~henrik_b/"Baltic Sea Sportfishing</A <LI <A HREF="http://www.pi.se/magnus.ugander/fb_home.html"Specimen Group – Fina Biten Homepage</A <LI <A HREF="http://www.bahnhof.se/~jrpstrom/index.html"The Specimen Group – Team Cisco</A <LI <A HREF="http://hem1.passagen.se/birger1/index.html"Sportfiskeguiden</A <A HREF="http://www.capricorn.se/" Capricorn Fly-Fishing. </A <LI <A HREF="http://www.pi.se/magnus.ugander/carphome.html" Carp Invaders Homepage. </A <LI <A HREF="http://www.algonet.se/~fishhole/fishhole.htm" The Fishing Hole. </A <LI <A HREF="http://www.ts.umu.se/~widmark/lwfishxl.html" LW’s Fishing Site. </A <LI <A HREF="http://www.pi.se/magnus.ugander/mu_home.htm" Magnus Ugander Specimen Fishing Page. </A <LI <A HREF="http://pew.psy.gu.se/~psymarer/salmon.html?" Martin G. Erikson’s Homepage. </A </UL <P — Davy Holt Surfing from Clydebank,        *"O Sir, doubht not that angling is Scotland.                      * an art… The question is rather The Scottish Angling Homepage  * whether you are capable of http://www.dholt.demon.co.uk/  * learning  it?"     Izaack Walton  

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Question:

I  have a friend that has an old fly rod and wants to know how much it is worth.  I’m not familiar with this particular sport, but thought maybe someone could point me to a book or internet site that would be helpful.   The information he gave me was that it is made by Wright and McGill, Eagle Claw, Trailmaster 6′9", Model VM8TM, Line size 7", mini serrules. You can either email me directly (as I am not a reader of this group), or just reply here in the group and I will come back each day for a few days. Thank you for your help. Richard Fitzgerald

Response:

  Dick Spurr’s Classis Chronicle page is reachable from my homepage listed below.  Hope this helps . . . http://www.kings.edu/~lsgorney/index.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I  have a friend that has an old fly rod and wants to know how much it is worth.  I’m not familiar with this particular sport, but thought maybe someone could point me to a book or internet site that would be helpful.   The information he gave me was that it is made by Wright and McGill, Eagle Claw, Trailmaster 6′9", Model VM8TM, Line size 7", mini serrules. You can either email me directly (as I am not a reader of this group), or just reply here in the group and I will come back each day for a few days. Thank you for your help. Richard Fitzgerald

Response:

I  have a friend that has an old fly rod and wants to know how much it is worth.  I’m not familiar with this particular sport, but thought maybe someone could point me to a book or internet site that would be helpful. The information he gave me was that it is made by Wright and McGill, Eagle Claw, Trailmaster 6′9", Model VM8TM, Line size 7", mini serrules. You can either email me directly (as I am not a reader of this group), or just reply here in the group and I will come back each day for a few days. Thank you for your help.

I beleive I had owned one of these rods in the mid ’70’s. A great pack rod then. I also beleive that is a combonation spin/fly,swapping the handle around to accomadate your fishing needs. I used an HCH or an HDH double taper, this sounds sort of dated but that’s the facts. Caught many fish on both spin and fly. IMHO, it was a better spin rod than a fly rod. It was all the 7wt. line rating and maybe a little more, a real noodle comparied to todays graphites. Do I miss it? Yes, just the backcountry memories. If you look close on the lable it should say that it has a life time guarantee, too. Paid about $50 new ‘74. I heard that this rod was to go back into production for around $110-145 last year or this. Your friends rod worth about $50-70 Doug Knight Posting on the road this weekend I want NO SPAM in this box, You are for warned

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Question:

Does anyone have any experiance with them? I am in the process of building a Thomas and Thomas 8wt 3 piece and I was thinking about what guides to use. You say T&T doesnt make those blanks? Yeah I know, but a buddy of mine pulled a few strings and it is going to be a special item. Anyway, I need some advice on the Titanium Nitride guides, are they worth the money? Are the a pain in the ass the put on? Any problems? Thanks….. -Mike

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Does anyone have any experiance with them? I am in the process of building a Thomas and Thomas 8wt 3 piece and I was thinking about what guides to use. You say T&T doesnt make those blanks? Yeah I know, but a buddy of mine pulled a few strings and it is going to be a special item. Anyway, I need some advice on the Titanium Nitride guides, are they worth the money? Are the a pain in the ass the put on? Any problems? Thanks….. -Mike

I put a set of PacBay TN guides on an 8 weight I built on a Powell blank. Aesthetically very nice, the the finish is now wearing off the tip (after 4 yrs.). I can’t really tell you I noticed a big performance difference, not like going from snake guides to single foot SICs. They are more corrosion resistant, though IMO if you clean your rod properly this shouldn’t be a huge deal. They go on the same as any guide :- I think if I were to build myself a real top of the line designer rod I’d use TN guides as well a TN reelseat (Clemens and Orvis have them) because I think they look pretty slick. There are many brands of TN guides now, you want to check as many as possible. The cheaper ones may wear off faster. I believe one of the saltwater ff mags had a review on titanium components a few months ago. I’ll try to find it tonite…                                                 jc

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   any experiance with them? I am in the process of  building a Thomas and Thomas 8wt 3 piece and I was thinking about what  guides to use.  Anyway, I need some advice on the Titanium Nitride guides, are they worth  the money? Are the a pain in the ass the put on? Any problems?  Thanks…..  -Mike  Hi  If your design includes gold hardware; reelseat, guides, tiptop, etc.  you’ll get a beauty of a rod. I use T/N stuff on my rods and notice  appreciative stares from others.  Haven’t got any bad news about ‘em either. – six years later.  –  Thanks,  J.P.Erwin – System Tech – Network Surveilance  Views expressed here are MINE – nobody else dares to open their yap!

Hello Mike,  I used TN guides on a Sage RPL I did last year.  I used the guides along with a gold Powell reel seat and got a nice look.  The gold appearance is not that gaudy.  I’m hoping for good durability. Jeff

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Does anyone have any experiance with them? I am in the process of building a Thomas and Thomas 8wt 3 piece and I was thinking about what guides to use. You say T&T doesnt make those blanks? Yeah I know, but a buddy of mine pulled a few strings and it is going to be a special item. Anyway, I need some advice on the Titanium Nitride guides, are they worth the money? Are the a pain in the ass the put on? Any problems? Thanks….. -Mike There is also a black TN guide set (at least I think it is TN) that is

really hard and looks good.  I use them for the stealth factor.  Have em on two rods and they appear to be pretty good.  Have only used them for about a season at this point, but they got hard use.  No grooving to date, unlike the set they replaced.

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If TiN coating is used as a wear preventative on so many drills, reamers and carbide metal cutting tools, I would think it would be an excellent finish for guides.

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: -Mike There is also a black TN guide set (at least I think it is TN) that is : really hard and looks good.  I use them for the stealth factor.  Have em What exactly is the stealth factor?  Are we now involved in all out war? In order to combat the fisherman with radar and motors on their float tubes, the trout have established hidden "listening posts" to detect the presence of fisherman topside?   Titanium nitride has a low radar cross section, so the stealthy fisherman goes undetected? Just wondering.

First, I lied.  They’re not TiN, they are DLC guides from Hopkins and Holloway.  They’re still good. By stealth factor, I mean that they are black, so they reflect less light and thus spook fewer fish.   Now, I do have composite wrapping on the drift boat to keep the radar signature down…

Response:

I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon to build up from the blank.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : -Mike There is also a black TN guide set (at least I think it is TN) that is : really hard and looks good.  I use them for the stealth factor.  Have em What exactly is the stealth factor?  Are we now involved in all out war? In order to combat the fisherman with radar and motors on their float tubes, the trout have established hidden "listening posts" to detect the presence of fisherman topside?   Titanium nitride has a low radar cross section, so the stealthy fisherman goes undetected? Just wondering. First, I lied.  They’re not TiN, they are DLC guides from Hopkins and Holloway.  They’re still good. By stealth factor, I mean that they are black, so they reflect less light and thus spook fewer fish.   Now, I do have composite wrapping on the drift boat to keep the radar signature down…

May I suggest an inflatable for total stealth ? As far as low reflection guides go, I had pretty good luck with the Perfection ‘EZ Flow’. Oversized and a nice grey color. Think I gotta do something about my chartreuse fishing hat though…

Response:

First, I lied.  They’re not TiN, they are DLC guides from Hopkins and Holloway.  They’re still good. By stealth factor, I mean that they are black, so they reflect less light and thus spook fewer fish. Now, I do have composite wrapping on the drift boat to keep the radar signature down… May I suggest an inflatable for total stealth ? As far as low reflection guides go, I had pretty good luck with the Perfection ‘EZ Flow’. Oversized and a nice grey color. Think I gotta do something about my chartreuse fishing hat though…

I hope those aren’t the same grey guides I got some time back form Anglers Workshop.  They were supposed to be teflon coated and real slick.  Well, they were, until they got all grooved up.  They were way soft.  That’s why I got the DLC guides I referred to.   Bear in mind I’m tough on guides.  I fish from a boat most of the time, and sand and grit gets all over the line.  A better recipe for destroying guides could not be found.

Response:

I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon to build up from the blank.

Kevin, I built an Orvis PM10 4pc 4wt last year, and unfortunately I’ve been pretty disappointed with it’s performance. The rod throws nice tight loops for casts out to about 60′ (using a Cortland 444 Lazerline WF4W) but for anything beyond 60′ the rod just feels overloaded and "mushy" (i.e. not crisp). I also built an Orvis PM10 4pc 8wt and can throw it about 90′ before the same "mushy" feeling sets in, so I’m sure that some of my impression is biased by the lighter line weight. I’m now in the process of building a GLoomis IMX 4pc 5wt and have great hopes for it. The rod feels *much* stiffer throug- out it’s length than do any of the Orvis rods I’ve built, but I’m reserving final judgement until I’ve had a chance to finish the project and get the rod out to the local casting ponds. Unfortunately, I have no experience with the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 wt, so I really can’t give any feedback on that series. Best of luck with whatever you decide, Fred

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – First, I lied.  They’re not TiN, they are DLC guides from Hopkins and Holloway.  They’re still good. By stealth factor, I mean that they are black, so they reflect less light and thus spook fewer fish. Now, I do have composite wrapping on the drift boat to keep the radar signature down… May I suggest an inflatable for total stealth ? As far as low reflection guides go, I had pretty good luck with the Perfection ‘EZ Flow’. Oversized and a nice grey color. Think I gotta do something about my chartreuse fishing hat though… I hope those aren’t the same grey guides I got some time back form Anglers Workshop.  They were supposed to be teflon coated and real slick.  Well, they were, until they got all grooved up.  They were way soft.  That’s why I got the DLC guides I referred to.   Bear in mind I’m tough on guides.  I fish from a boat most of the time, and sand and grit gets all over the line.  A better recipe for destroying guides could not be found.

Hmm, I’ll have to check them. If they’re teflon coated I didn’t know it when I bought them :- Mine were on a Fisher 10 wgt. used mostly on surf and jetties in N.E., like you I’m rough on tackle (the rod is now broken . I originally had SICs on the rod, but switched to snakes to accomodate the heavy heads I like to throw. On my other rods, my black PacBays on my 11 weight have held up extremely well, fishing surf 3-4 times/week May- Oct. for 2 years. My PacBay TNs have begun to wear after about 4 years. The SICs, though ugly, have held up well for me too. Also, the single foot takes less time to wrap, which is important for me this time ‘cos I have to build the rod between the screams/needs/etc. of a 3 mo. old ! Fast is good, ja. I tend to cycle through rods pretty fast, slipping on jetties, etc. tends to beat them up good, so often the guides don’t get a chance to wear out !                                                         jc

Response:

: I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight : and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or : both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, : disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon : to build up from the blank. Hi Kevin,    I read a follow on post about the Orvis PM 10 and thought I’d mention my thoughts about the RPL (and the LLB) series. I have a 586 RPL and a 790 RPL and love them both. They are what the RPL stands for: Reserve Power Line. Wonderful line throwers. Now on the other hand, My wife has a 4711 LLB and I have just finished a 490 LLB and they are too soft for my arm. I have great difficulty casting with them. My wife, however, wouldn’t give her’s up. It is light and does a great job for her.    Two of my daugherts also have 586 RPL(s) and they swear by them. It is a very easy rod to cast. lukn4fish — Bob San Jose, Ca

Response:

I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon to build up from the blank.

Hi Kevin, I have cast and fished with both the Sage and Orvis 5wt. rods you mentioned. The RPL in my opinion is the all around better of the two.  Both are very fine rods; However,  the Sage has more backbone and will throw a tighter loop.  The chioce is yours as to which rod is better for you.  I prefer a very fast rod.  Some people like to have a slightly slower,  softer rod.  The fast action of the RPL is somewhat unforgiving when you use light tippets. I suggest that you fish with both before purchasing.  A day on the stream with a rod will give you much more information than casting one or the other at a fly shop. Good luck,  let me know what you think of both. Bryan Bonds White River Anglers http://www.ipa.net/~bbonds Fayetteville,  Ar

Response:

I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon to build up from the blank.

Hi Kevin, I’ve tried both before buying the PM-10 9′ 5wt 2 pce. Depending on your preferences in a rod both are very nice rods. The RPL is a somewhat stiffer rod, very nice casting (even beyond 75′) but when you hook a moderate sized trout the PM-10 gives you more pleasure. Recently I bought a Sage LL 590-3 instead of the PM-10. Its casting is about in between the RPL and the PM-10. Above all it gives a lot more fun when playing a moderate sized trout. Finally : When distance is your main goal, buy a RPL 590 or even better SP+ 590. when performance is your goal, buy PM-10, LL 590 (3) or SP 590 (3). Succes,  Ger.

Response:

Kevin, I can’t speak about the Orvis– However, I have fished with a Sage RPL 8ft for a 4 for many years.  I have fished the West Branch of the Ausable to the Madison.  I have never been disapointed with the rod.  I’ve caught everything from  bluegills to landlocked salmon with it and it has been a pleasure.  Tight loops, distance,  and when needed a delicate feel. I also own two Orvis Rods.  A green mountain and a far and fine.  Neither of these rods are worth the money I spent on them.  They hang on my wall while I fish with my Sage rods. In my opinion there is no comparison.  Fish with the Sage! Mike

Response:

You should try these rods yourself and see which ones cast best for you.  We all have different casting styles and preferences.

Response:

I’m looking for any comparisons between the Sage RPL in 4 and 5 weight and the Orvis PM 10 in 4 and 5 weight. If you’ve tried either one or both, give me your thoughts on what they do best, advantages, disadvantages and any other thoughts. I’ll be trying them both real soon to build up from the blank.

Kevin, Can’t help with the Sage rods, but can speak form experience about the PM-10’s.  I personally fish with the PM-10 865-4 (8 1/2 ft. 5 wt. 4 pc.) and the rod fits me perfectly. I love it.  The tip is very delicate and the rod loads and casts easily up close as well as having plenty of power to boom out the entire line if I need to. As you cast more and more line, the rod very smoothly and predictably flexes farther and farther down the blank with no sudden stops or hinges.  It became available this year in a 9ft. version for a little better line control, but I still like the 8 1/2ft.  We use the PM10 905 in our fly fishing schools and it is also superb.  Same light tip with plenty of power but I prefer the way the 4 pc. casts over the 2pc.  One of those things about buying top quality shoes and they’re all good, but this one’s really comfortable.  The PM10 904 is a little smoother IMHO than the 905 but doesn’t have as much power.  If  you

Question:

 So, again, is there any outfit that sells new/used military Jeep trailers or similar ones here in the states?

I know of a place in Ogden, Utah, just north of Salt Lake where there is huge junkyard.  They have a different area there where you can get all kinds of army trailers, sorry but I don’t remember what the place is called. But you can see it from the freeway on the West side. Joe

Response:

That would be Smith & Edwards Surplus I mentioned in my previous post…. — Scott Weiser ****** "I love the Internet, I no longer have to depend upon my friends, family and co-workers, I can annoy people WORLDWIDE!" ****** The opinions expressed are my own.  If I was a laywer, you’d be paying big bucks for this.  All complaints should be

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Now that I nolonger have the luxury space of my Bronco with the Wrangler; I’m in the market for a new/used military jeep trailer. Does anyone know where I can purchase one? The Army did away with the Jeep trailer when they went to the Hummer, so I know there has to be thousands of them out there somewhere. The local Army/Navy store had some well used ones a couple of years ago and was selling them for $350.00. I suspect with the rust and artic camo paint job that they came from some units in Alaska. So, again, is there any outfit that sells new/used military Jeep trailers or similar ones here in the states? TIA, Dennis 4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4 Dennis Noes, 95 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L SE, Atlanta, GA.,USA UNFWDA-SFWDA Four Wheel Drive Education Awareness Rep. Member of United FWD Assoc., Southern 4WD Assoc., Tread Lightly and Georgia Bounty Runners 4WD Club 4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4

Try No Excuses, Inc. located in New Eygpt, NJ. # 1 800 923 JEEP (5337) or  609 758 3833 This is the best place to go for hard to find parts for Jeeps.

Response:

Dennis, I placed my order for one of the last 4.0L YJ’s last July.  While waiting for the promised October delivery, I faced with the same dilema of where to put my camping goodies along with my wife and kids when the Jeep arrived.   I went looking for a trailer.  Used military trailers, I soon found, are very difficult to come by.  I found a company north of Sacramento (Helter Mfg. or something like that) that makes a very well designed Jeep trailer.  However, the $2400 price sent me back to scouring military surplus lots with little success. In early August, while fly-fishing in Idaho, I stopped for a meal at Smitty’s in Idaho Falls.  After ordering, while waiting for my food, I looked across the parking lot and there was an army surplus store with a 1/4 ton military trailer parked in front. About that time my food came,  I woofed and went over to investigate.  As I walked in to the store, a guy was writing a check for the trailer.  When I asked if any more were available, I was told to call the next day and talk to Dana the owner. To make a long story shorter, Dana had purchased 75 of these M146 trailers from a base in Montana.  All were in very good shape and were priced firm at $450 a piece.  At the time he still had "several" left in his other warehouse in Shelly, ID.  Apparently a Las Vegas 4×4 club had purchased 10 sight-unseen and were on there way up for them later that month.   I purchased a nice brigadier general’s trailer complete with a star on the back and a pintle hitch for another $30.  The trailer was built new in 1967 and still has the origonal rubber.  My biggest problem was adapting the 1 1/4" mini receiver hitch on my minivan to pintle hitch.  With a little engineering and a little help from a friend in Island Park we rigged up the hitch.  I pulled the trailer down to my home in the S.F. Bay area with no problems. My first purchase for my YJ when it finally arrived in mid November was a Tomken Machine bumper with a 2 inch receiver.  It is a well engineered bumper.  The trailer pulls great and I am in the process of completing some minor body work and giving it a paint job.  They are a well engineered trailer with a parking brake and the full pivet pintle eye.  I have been told that the springs, shocks and hubs are all interchangable with an M38A1, but I have not been able to confirm that.  I can confirm that I still get 20 mpg pulling it behind my Grand Caravan. I was back in Idaho Falls in early October.  Four trailers were parked in front.  I can’t remember the name of the surplus store, but I imagine that a call to Smitty’s Pancake house would get you their number.   It’s a long way from Georgia, but good luck. Bill

Response:

Sorry if this is redeudant. I missed the ezrlier part of this thread. I can lead you to scads of 1/4 ton military jeep trailers. I got one myself with a surge break system (!) for the excellent price of $400. Best place to find dealers is Military Vehicles Magazine. See my earlier and I’ll send you the detalis on the mag and maybe a few dealer names. I am kicking myself for not jumping on a 3/4 ton with surge brakes for $850 a few months back, but storage and ready cash were a bit of a problem then. These things are dynamite-like having a pickup truck at your disposal with no holding costs and very minimal maintenence costs. Oh well, maybe in the future.

Response:

By the way, I paid $325 for the trailer and $20 for a brand new spare tire on a rim at DRMO.

Response:

Check with any local Air Force or Army base and ask for information on DRMO. They’ll know what your talking about. I bought mine up here in Alaska. I’m in the AF and this is where me and my friends got ours along with spare tires for the trailers. I’ve had mine for two years now and it’s still in good shape. It was made in 1964 and has a little rust but it’s only on the surface, it can be sanded off easily. They are excellent for towing off-road or on the highway. I can hardly tell that it’s behind me.

Response:

Now that I nolonger have the luxury space of my Bronco with the Wrangler; I’m in the market for a new/used military jeep trailer. Does anyone know where I can purchase one?  The Army did away with the Jeep trailer when they went to the Hummer, so I know there has to be thousands of them out there somewhere. The local Army/Navy store had some well used ones a couple of years ago and was selling them for $350.00. I suspect with the rust and artic camo paint job that they came from some units in Alaska.  So, again, is there any outfit that sells new/used military Jeep trailers or similar ones here in the states?  TIA,  Dennis 4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4  Dennis Noes, 95 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L SE, Atlanta, GA.,USA  UNFWDA-SFWDA Four Wheel Drive Education Awareness Rep.  Member of United FWD Assoc., Southern 4WD Assoc.,  Tread Lightly and Georgia Bounty Runners 4WD Club 4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4×4x4

Response:

So, again, is there any outfit that sells new/used military Jeep trailers or similar ones here in the states? TIA,

Dennis Hopefully some of these places may be able to help, check out our new Military Vehicle Digest as it develops online: http://www.4×44u.com/pub/k2/mvd/mvd.htm PS – Dennis, we’ve wanted one of those ourselves! Antelope Valley Equipment and Truck Parts 44532 Trevor Lancaster, CA 93534 (805) 945-6788 Sarafan Auto Supply 23 North Madison Ave. Springvalley, NY 10977 (914) 356-1080 Ordinance Unlimited 20945 Osborne St. Canoga Park, CA 91304 (818) 700-2905 Thomas W. Murry Box 214 Dover, DE  19903 (302) 736-1790 Brentmullins Jeep Parts PO Box 9599 College Station, TX 77842 (409) 690-0203 Frank’s Surplus PO Box 555 Bryn Athyn, PA 19009 (215) 947-5616 Military Vehicle Locator Service PO Box 1562 Fort Collins, CO 80522 (303) 221-4920 fax/phone Rapco Parts Co. (817) 872-2403 All American Military Goods 726 West Michigan PO Box 143 New Carlisle, IN  46552 (219) 654-8081 Army Jeep Parts PO Box 1006 Bristol, PA 19007 (215) 788-6012

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Try: U.S. Surplus Expediters PO Box 158 1000 East 1700 South Clearfield, UT  84015-0158 801-825-3489 They have numerous M-101 1/4 Ton trailers, some better than others, a couple were pretty cherry with little or no rust.  They also have some M-105 trailers, the larger ones with 110"x 83" ID on box, used with the deuce & 1/2, which have 9.00 x 20" Budd wheels, good for HUMMERs with a bit of lowering to get the pintle to match up and a new axle with electric brakes. Tell them I referred you. Also: Smith & Edwards Surplus 3936 N. Hiway 126 Ogden, UT 84404 801-731-1120 They have *acres* of trailers and old military surplus. Don’t buy one sight unseen unless you are willing to put up with rust, body damage, etc. and repair it.  Insist on pictures and serial number verification.  Better yet, grab a plane to Salt Lake and inspect it yourself, or hire me to go out and broker for you.  If you are *really* interested, let me know e-mail *this weekend*, as I am going out to Salt Lake on Sunday the 7th. I’m sure we can work something out as far as inspecting/brokering/shipping. Don’t know where you can get the even smaller M-100, which is the genuine "Jeep" trailer, but if you have an immediate need, I can check with a couple of sources.  The key is how much you are willing to pay, how fast you can jump on the deal, and how much you trust the dealer.   I got an absolutely cherry M-105 rebuilt and repainted in 1989 with *no* rust for $450, was quoted $450-650 on M-101’s, and once paid $2000 for an M-101 with HMMWV hubs and a hydraulic surge brake.  As you can see, quite a variance. Regards, — Scott Weiser P.S.  *Always* insist on proper title paperwork, with the proper signatures of the original purchaser at the government auction and the proper chain of title for each owner after. I bought a trailer with the "original" DRMO paperwork from a guy in California, only to find that the DRMO listed someone else, a guy in Utah for which my guy was selling the trailer, as the "owner of record", and Colorado refused to title the trailer, citing the "shadow ownership" as title fraud, a felony. I had to send the paperwork back to the guy I bought it from, pay sales tax in California (twice what I would have paid here), and pay for California plates and registration which I never used, all to get a valid California title which Colorado would accept when applying for re-titling in Colorado.  Cost me about $200 extra. Some states are not as rigid, but you’d better check *first* to see what you need in the way of title papers for an out-of-state purchase of surplus government vehicles.  Make proper titling part of the *written* sales agreement, so you have an out if you can’t get it titled for some reason. ****** "I love the Internet, I no longer have to depend upon my friends, family and co-workers, I can annoy people WORLDWIDE!" ****** The opinions expressed are my own.  If I was a laywer, you’d be paying big bucks for this.  All complaints should be

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