Question:

I fished with a ROFF lurker Sunday, a really good fisherman and tier, and we got rain, snow, and wind.  Both of us caught a few good fish and we enjoyed watching the guides and their sports in the Texas hole.  Two guys in one boat had a foul hooked double.  First time we’d ever seen that one.

I’m assuming you don’t mean my version of a double – foul hooking a fish with *both* my nymphs… ??

Response:

I’m assuming you don’t mean my version of a double – foul hooking a fish with *both* my nymphs… ??

  Man, that’s disgusting.  You need to brush up on your style:)   I caught a fish last year on two nymphs, one fly in each corner of his MOUTH. That’s the way we westerners do things. With a little class.  I’ll bet you tie Parachute Adams’ on treble hooks, too. Snoop — —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

I’m assuming you don’t mean my version of a double – foul hooking a fish with *both* my nymphs… ??

Wow.  I’ve never seen that one before either! bruce h

Response:

I’m assuming you don’t mean my version of a double – foul hooking a fish with *both* my nymphs… ??   Man, that’s disgusting.  You need to brush up on your style:)   I caught a fish last year on two nymphs, one fly in each corner of his MOUTH. That’s the way we westerners do things. With a little class.  I’ll bet you tie Parachute Adams’ on treble hooks, too.

Yeah, but I’ve noticed that if I leave off the tail, body, wings and even hackle from my treble Adams it snags ‘em just as well.  Frankly, I don’t think the fish can tell the difference…..

Response:

I’m planning on having a really small group at the San Juan December 7-10. You are invited if you are reading this.  Join the Western clique.  We’re really not all that picky 2002 has been a pretty slow year for me, fishing wise, although I’ve had the good fortune to take some good trips and I have caught lots of good fish. Just not as many as expected in many cases.  Fishing, like many other pursuits, can sometimes be improved by managing one’s expectations. Even the San Juan, a veritable aquarium, has been slower than expected on the days I managed to get up there this year.  And while I was in Idaho and Montana, struggling to catch fish and enjoying everyone’s company, the San Juan was rocking, with the fish eating anything, apparently.  Did I mention that Indian Joe is a HOOT? I vowed to make the time to fish the Juan for a weekend or more and really walk around and concentrate on locating concentrations of fish for the December trip.  Of course it’s not too tough in that river but the fish do move around as the conditions change.  And I’ve never even seen the river as low as it’s flowing now as a result of our drought – 350 cfs.  Last weekend I fished Friday afternoon and all weekend. At the Western Clave, Jeff C mentioned to me that he had hoped for visible hatches and working fish and a puzzle to solve.  We really didn’t get it. We were casting to likely water and mostly blind, not casting to visible fish (except the bridges!) or rise forms.  At the San Juan, you can cast to working fish and throw everything in your box at them and not hook anything but the Tamarisk behind you for two hours.  Well, unless your initials are WL that is.  And other times, the fish are visibly feeding, you can identify pretty closely what they’re eating, and lo and behold, a few of them eat your presentations of imitations.  As somebody once said and I’ve repeated often, some days are electric. Friday afternoon was Electric.  Saturday was raining, cold and mostly windy and the fish still ate a good presentation.  I looked up and down the river and saw the other fly fishers waiting for a chance to get a drift or sitting on the river bank waiting it out.  Sunday dawn I was walking across the upper flats, intent on checking out an apparently trapped goose that I had spotted from my truck.  As I got closer and it got a little brighter outside, I could tell it wasn’t a goose.  The shotgun blasts kicked my brain into gear.  Decoy, hunters.  Wow.  I’ve seen a lot of shotgun shells there but I’ve never had a couple of camo guys stand up on the island in front of me and start blasting at some distant ducks.  Even more amazing was the fact that they weren’t bothered by the other twenty or so guys that arrived over the next couple of hours. The baetis hatch Sunday afternoon was really something to behold.  We were at the right place at the right time.  I think there was a debate here some time ago about whether or not cloudy conditions bring out the baetis.  At the San Juan it seems obvious.  I was extremely happy to be there. I fished with a ROFF lurker Sunday, a really good fisherman and tier, and we got rain, snow, and wind.  Both of us caught a few good fish and we enjoyed watching the guides and their sports in the Texas hole.  Two guys in one boat had a foul hooked double.  First time we’d ever seen that one. bruce h

Response:

Question:

Dave, Earlier this year I lost the ability to see close with my regular glasses on.  I also know that my regular near sight (without glasses) is going down hill as well.  So after a few 10-15 minute sessions on stream changing flies on 6x, I gave in and got the magnifiers which are a life-saver for me. I also bought a boom-arm magnifier light for tying and other close work at home. I was really hoping the progressives worked but for me, I felt like I was walking around with fish-eye lenses and was getting headaches. I just went tonight and turned them in (I was in a trial period) for regular distance lenses, and back I go to the clip on magnifiers on stream — Rob

Response:

Rob;   That’s too bad about the progressives. I love mine in the regular everyday lenses–but tying knots on stream–or even tying flies at home on the bench–is better accomplished with the naked eye. Sucks getting old–but the alternative is a *helluva* lot worse. Dave M

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dave, Earlier this year I lost the ability to see close with my regular glasses on.  I also know that my regular near sight (without glasses) is going down hill as well.  So after a few 10-15 minute sessions on stream changing flies on 6x, I gave in and got the magnifiers which are a life-saver for me. I also bought a boom-arm magnifier light for tying and other close work at home. I was really hoping the progressives worked but for me, I felt like I was walking around with fish-eye lenses and was getting headaches. I just went tonight and turned them in (I was in a trial period) for regular distance lenses, and back I go to the clip on magnifiers on stream — Rob

Response:

I broke down and bot a few of those cute little needle threader type hook threaders that sit in my C&F boxes. They work ok and all but I’ve noticed that on smaller sizes the tippet forms a crease where it is hooked by the threader and pulled through. This makes my a bit nervous to include the creased section either in my knot or in my leader section. My concern is that by forming such a sharp bend in the tippet, I’m creating a weak spot and risking a break when load is applied. Anyway, the solution is just to snip off the bend. Aside from that, my little sise 22’s have become very popular with the smallmouth bass crowd. I’ve tended to fish the last two hours of the day recently and found that the darker bodied (BWO) parachutes have been hands down more productive than the lighter brown and tan bodies, even though the pattern is otherwise identical. They must put some cheese flavoring in that Super Fine olive dubbing. As an aside, check out http://www.dnr.state.oh.us/wildlife/fishing/fishid/default.htm I don’t live in Ohio, but I’ve found the line drawings and descriptions on this site of typical panfish and bass to be very interesting. I printed out all of the species that my son has caught and we colored them (to the best of our recollection) with water colors. Over and out. -bh Boulder, CO

Response:

Rob;   I have progressives for both my regular glasses and polarized progressives for my fishing glasses. You’d think they’d work fine–but noooo. Still much easier–for me anyway–to whip off the glasses and use the naked eye. I *do* have to be a bit careful in the dusk after taking off the fishing (dark) glasses–my "regular" ones don’t have the Croakies attached. Be a shame to drop them in the river.   Dave M

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well…the "trick"; if you want to call it that; at least for me–because I’m so near-sighted–is to hang my glasses off a string /croakies off my neck; and tie on the fly using just my regular vision. That’s a trick I learned from watching my mother-in-law threading a needle. I’ve been told that it only works if you’re nearsighted–but if you are–it works like a charm. HTH. if you’re nearsighted and can’t see near anymore just happened to me earlier this year.  I’m trying progressive lenses (instead of bifoculs) right now, but hate them. I’m probably going to resort to 2 pairs of glasses… regular distance correction and reading glasses. On stream I’ll just use my clip-on magnifiers. Rob

Response:

Now I’m wondering how in the heck I’m going to tie these little gems on. Being half blind (and equally crazy) I have a tough time tying an 18 on 6x. What’s the trick to it? Anybody?

As an aside, don’t use your teeth to cut the tippet because this will flatten the end of it, making it wider than the diameter of the tippet. Use a sharp pair of nippers or scissors and cut the tippet at an angle. Mu

Response:

Peter Charles writes… The eyes have hung in so far but after a day of staring at computer screens, they can need some help tying flies.  Bought a cheap pair of 1.25 diopter half-glassses from the drug store – work great. Peter

Hell I’m up to 2.75 diopter and it still doesn’t work. I’ve got to use magnifiers. The clip-on ones work well and you can buy polaroids with magnifiers built right in How the hell did you tie the damn things without magnifiers? Joel Axelrad **DFD**

Response:

but makes it much more pleasant. Wolfgang For who, you or the guy watching you? Darin

Share the wine and the spectators’ acuity will match your own……the possibilities for amusement are endless.      :) Wolfgang

Response:

Actually I found a really simple solution. I have lazy eye, like a squint except your eyes dont go in different direction. On a good day I can see fine with a small amount of strain, on a bad day I end up borrowing my mothers reading glasses to be able to see in front of my arm. It has almost gone though, my vision is perfect after taking up cross-stitch. Watch tv do cross stitch means I need to continually refocus and at the same time training my eyes to focus. I know this is not the case with a large number of you but try short-long exercise. It may make a difference. As for tying, my proficiency has gone from a 10-12 to 22+ with better focussing.

Response:

Depends on the state of your teeth. *grin* – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Now I’m wondering how in the heck I’m going to tie these little gems on. Being half blind (and equally crazy) I have a tough time tying an 18 on 6x. What’s the trick to it? Anybody? As an aside, don’t use your teeth to cut the tippet because this will flatten the end of it, making it wider than the diameter of the tippet. Use a sharp pair of nippers or scissors and cut the tippet at an angle. Mu

Response:

I must have been born with grinders, ‘cuz I fully understand Mu’s advice. AFTER I cut the line cleanly with nippers, and AFTER I don my magnifiers, I have to move the fly around to get the best backgound for finding the hole. (sound like the start of a bad joke, eh.)  Foreground, background, and contrast all play a role. David . – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – As an aside, don’t use your teeth to cut the tippet because this will flatten the end of it, making it wider than the diameter of the tippet. Use a sharp pair of nippers or scissors and cut the tippet at an angle. Mu

Response:

Well…the "trick"; if you want to call it that; at least for me–because I’m so near-sighted–is to hang my glasses off a string /croakies off my neck; and tie on the fly using just my regular vision. That’s a trick I learned from watching my mother-in-law threading a needle. I’ve been told that it only works if you’re nearsighted–but if you are–it works like a charm. HTH.

if you’re nearsighted and can’t see near anymore just happened to me earlier this year.  I’m trying progressive lenses (instead of bifoculs) right now, but hate them. I’m probably going to resort to 2 pairs of glasses… regular distance correction and reading glasses. On stream I’ll just use my clip-on magnifiers. Rob

Response:

I sat up last night and tied a couple dozen medium brown parachute duns in sizes 20 and 22. This morning I’m looking at them, not half bad BTW, and wondering how the hell I did that. I can barely see the ribbing on the bods and the hackle is as fine as that from a hummingbird’s scrotum. <huh? whaddid he say? Now I’m wondering how in the heck I’m going to tie these little gems on. Being half blind (and equally crazy) I have a tough time tying an 18 on 6x. What’s the trick to it? Anybody?

magnifier clip-ons onstream, or pre-tie them at home.

Response:

Well…the "trick"; if you want to call it that; at least for me–because I’m so near-sighted–is to hang my glasses off a string /croakies off my neck; and tie on the fly using just my regular vision. That’s a trick I learned from watching my mother-in-law threading a needle. I’ve been told that it only works if you’re nearsighted–but if you are–it works like a charm. HTH. Hell, that’s how I tie the fly to the tippet!

Same here.

Response:

Being half blind (and equally crazy) I have a tough time tying an 18 on 6x. What’s the trick to it? Anybody? One word: Magnifiers. Or a couple of glasses of wine……doesn’t really speed the process, but makes it much more pleasant. Wolfgang

…and it gives you TWO hook-eyes to aim for — NightStalker

Response:

"Nightstalker" …and it gives you TWO hook-eyes to aim for — NightStalker

One more glass and you’ll see 3. This makes it much easier, you aim for the middle one. Clark

Response:

I sat up last night and tied a couple dozen medium brown parachute duns in sizes 20 and 22. This morning I’m looking at them, not half bad BTW, and wondering how the hell I did that. I can barely see the ribbing on the bods and the hackle is as fine as that from a hummingbird’s scrotum. <huh? whaddid he say? Now I’m wondering how in the heck I’m going to tie these little gems on. Being half blind (and equally crazy) I have a tough time tying an 18 on 6x. What’s the trick to it? Anybody?

The eyes have hung in so far but after a day of staring at computer screens, they can need some help tying flies.  Bought a cheap pair of 1.25 diopter half-glassses from the drug store – work great. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Make grandson feel needed! OR leave fly off, eliminates need to reel in fish,unhook etc. — John Popp in Sanford Fl.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I sat up last night and tied a couple dozen medium brown parachute duns in sizes 20 and 22. This morning I’m looking at them, not half bad BTW, and wondering how the hell I did that. I can barely see the ribbing on the bods and the hackle is as fine as that from a hummingbird’s scrotum. <huh? whaddid he say? Now I’m wondering how in the heck I’m going to tie these little gems on. Being half blind (and equally crazy) I have a tough time tying an 18 on 6x. What’s the trick to it? Anybody?

Response:

but makes it much more pleasant. Wolfgang

For who, you or the guy watching you? Darin

Response:

I sat up last night and tied a couple dozen medium brown parachute duns in sizes 20 and 22. This morning I’m looking at them, not half bad BTW, and wondering how the hell I did that. I can barely see the ribbing on the bods and the hackle is as fine as that from a hummingbird’s scrotum. <huh? whaddid he say? Now I’m wondering how in the heck I’m going to tie these little gems on. Being half blind (and equally crazy) I have a tough time tying an 18 on 6x. What’s the trick to it? Anybody?

I’m excessively nearsighted, so first I try lowering my glasses and using a bare eye look.  Doesn’t help with 6X tippet.  Then I haul out the cheap drugstore reading glasses.  Helps.  I can see how I’m missing it.  Then I keep on jabbing what I think is the end of the tippet into where I think the eye of the hook is until I luck out. Takes about 10 minutes as a general rule.  The thing I hate is when I finally get it through and go to pull it enough through to make a knot and something slips and it’s out again.  But if I’m sitting in the sunshine and the water’s gurgling nearby, that’s almost okay. — rbc:  vixen    Fairly harmless remove invalid or hit reply to email. Though I’m very slow to respond. http://www.visi.com/~cyli

Response:

I sat up last night and tied a couple dozen medium brown parachute duns in sizes 20 and 22. This morning I’m looking at them, not half bad BTW, and wondering how the hell I did that. I can barely see the ribbing on the bods and the hackle is as fine as that from a hummingbird’s scrotum. <huh? whaddid he say? Now I’m wondering how in the heck I’m going to tie these little gems on. Being half blind (and equally crazy) I have a tough time tying an 18 on 6x. What’s the trick to it? Anybody?

Response:

Being half blind (and equally crazy) I have a tough time tying an 18 on 6x. What’s the trick to it? Anybody?

One word: Magnifiers. George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

Response:

Well…the "trick"; if you want to call it that; at least for me–because I’m so near-sighted–is to hang my glasses off a string /croakies off my neck; and tie on the fly using just my regular vision. That’s a trick I learned from watching my mother-in-law threading a needle. I’ve been told that it only works if you’re nearsighted–but if you are–it works like a charm. HTH.   Dave M

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I sat up last night and tied a couple dozen medium brown parachute duns in sizes 20 and 22. This morning I’m looking at them, not half bad BTW, and wondering how the hell I did that. I can barely see the ribbing on the bods and the hackle is as fine as that from a hummingbird’s scrotum. <huh? whaddid he say? Now I’m wondering how in the heck I’m going to tie these little gems on. Being half blind (and equally crazy) I have a tough time tying an 18 on 6x. What’s the trick to it? Anybody?

Response:

Being half blind (and equally crazy) I have a tough time tying an 18 on 6x. What’s the trick to it? Anybody? One word: Magnifiers.

Or a couple of glasses of wine……doesn’t really speed the process, but makes it much more pleasant. Wolfgang

Response:

Have been using these and they work great, 4 different magnifications to choose from. http://www.mageyes.com/Hobby.htm

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I sat up last night and tied a couple dozen medium brown parachute duns in sizes 20 and 22. This morning I’m looking at them, not half bad BTW, and wondering how the hell I did that. I can barely see the ribbing on the bods and the hackle is as fine as that from a hummingbird’s scrotum. <huh? whaddid he say? Now I’m wondering how in the heck I’m going to tie these little gems on. Being half blind (and equally crazy) I have a tough time tying an 18 on 6x. What’s the trick to it? Anybody?

Response:

Well…the "trick"; if you want to call it that; at least for me–because I’m so near-sighted–is to hang my glasses off a string /croakies off my neck; and tie on the fly using just my regular vision. That’s a trick I learned from watching my mother-in-law threading a needle. I’ve been told that it only works if you’re nearsighted–but if you are–it works like a charm. HTH.

Hell, that’s how I tie the fly to the tippet! — http://rwpatton.home.netcom.com/

Response:

Question:

I have a 9′  for 5 that I built a couple of years ago.  In the right hands it  seems to cast a good line.  Medium to medium fast action.  If you would like, you could stop by and try it the next time you are headed to Cornwall. Chris Richer – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  My only Talon rod is a light 10.5 ft spinning rod,  so I really don’t know.  Angler’s Workshop always  lists a small number of Talon blanks in their catalog.  You might want to give them a call to see if they will  tell you anything about them. Thanks, found it.  It’s in their VI Plus series.  I’ve never casted a Talon or even held one in my hands, do you know what they’re like? Remove "XX" from address

– Chris Richer chrisratnostormspamdotca

Response:

I have a 9′  for 5 that I built a couple of years ago.  In the right hands it  seems to cast a good line.  Medium to medium fast action.  If you would like, you could stop by and try it the next time you are headed to Cornwall. Chris Richer

I appreciate that Rick, I’ll be in Cornwall, Saturday, September 21st. If that’s OK for you I can send you my phone number and we can arrange something – maybe chase a few smallies. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

still trying to find a good anchoring system to use with my kayak. The dealer kit [anchor off bow and line to cleat beside cockpit]  forces the boat to face upstream or upwind according to the conditions. This forces me to cast into wind and fight fish around anchor line. Also I cannot get to anchor if it gets hung up. Anyone got a suggestion for a better rig.? Joe McIntosh

Response:

Petah I’d look at http://www.tomwhite.com I’ve gotten several of his GLoomis IMX blems and they’ve been turned into fine rods. He’s friendly, has good service and ships at 1/2 of warp speed. YMMV Flyfish

I’ve sent him an email – we’ll see what happens. Thanks Peter Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Anyone have a source for spey rod blems (or just a good source for spey blanks)?  Winter’s coming up and I’ve got an itch to build a new rod. Thanks,      - Ken

Worth a try with Tom White, see my previous post. Flyfish

Response:

I looked up a few lists I had from a year or so ago and found that Talon makes a 4 pc 8.5 ft 7 weight blank, but on the order of US$165 or so.  And if you strike out with everything else, you may want to at least check out Cabela’s 3 pc 8.5 ft 6-10 lb test spinning rod at $US79, don’t know if that particular blank is sold separately…  

Thanks, found it.  It’s in their VI Plus series.  I’ve never casted a Talon or even held one in my hands, do you know what they’re like? Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

 Apart from spending big bucks on a saltwater Vector or Heliply, I’m SOL.  

Those are both nice rods, and would give you an excuse to do a little flats fishing now and then. <g — Charlie…

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yup, I know.  The 8′6" length 7wt. apparently is popular as a brookie rod for fishing on Quebec lakes out of canoes and boats.  I found my old one to be ideal for steelheading out of a drift boat and for all day blind casting for smallies.  There used to be a few different models on the market but I suppose the demand for them was low and they’ve been discontinued. Peter, If the only problem with the rods is portability, have you considered a car top carrier such as a Yakima or Thule? The cost would likely be about the same as a "good" rod, and could be used for other purposes as well. Just a thought.

I’ve looked at those before, but I’d rather have something that would fit in the trunk.  I haul computers and manuals plus occasional suitcases all over Ontario for my job.  It’s nice to be able to tuck in a couple of rods as well. I used to keep a Cabelas Stowaway 3 wt., a Daiwa 4/5 and a Cortland 8/9 (really a 9 wt.) in the a big bag in the back of my truck.  It worked great but over time I found the Cortland to be too much rod for most of the fish and the Stowaway was redundant.  I currently have a nice St. Croix 8 wt. but I lack spools and lines for it.  OTOH, I have loads of 7 wt. lines mounted.  So it’s six of one half-dozen of the other, do I buy more lines and spools for the 8 or buy a 7 wt. rod? I know what Wayne Knight would say, "Buy both." Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

 Apart from spending big bucks on a saltwater Vector or Heliply, I’m SOL.   Those are both nice rods, and would give you an excuse to do a little flats fishing now and then. <g

If you could see the nice, shiny new 48" Thermador range in the kitchen of the nice, shiny new house, you’d know why Vector and Heliply are off my list.  :) Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yup, I know.  The 8′6" length 7wt. apparently is popular as a brookie rod for fishing on Quebec lakes out of canoes and boats.  I found my old one to be ideal for steelheading out of a drift boat and for all day blind casting for smallies.  There used to be a few different models on the market but I suppose the demand for them was low and they’ve been discontinued. Peter, If the only problem with the rods is portability, have you considered a car top carrier such as a Yakima or Thule? The cost would likely be about the same as a "good" rod, and could be used for other purposes as well. Just a thought.

And if I may, why does it have to fit in the trunk?  Is it a security thing, or…???  Either way, a couple of questions – are you willing to finish/refinish something, and does it have to graphite? TC, R

Response:

you’d know why Vector and Heliply are off my list.  :)

Well, you don’t have to get both right away. <g — Charlie…

Response:

And if I may, why does it have to fit in the trunk?  Is it a security thing, or…???  Either way, a couple of questions – are you willing to finish/refinish something, and does it have to graphite? TC, R

I know that there are some fiberglass blanks kicking around in a 7 wt. (Fenglas?) but they generally don’t have the horsepower to handle wind, etc. so that’s why I wasn’t really considering them. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

models on the market but I suppose the demand for them was low and they’ve been discontinued. Could you build one out of a 9′ 6wt blank that you cut back? Maybe I’m just showing my ignorance, Jon.

I considered that – get a cheap blank and chop 6" off the tip. However, I’d have to be very careful that I choose a blank that doesn’t exhibit a radical thickening of the blank just beyond the tip. Some of the cheaper ones I’ve had don’t maintain a thin tip very far down the blank.  If I chopped one of those, I might end up with a one very brutal rod.   Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

I considered that – get a cheap blank and chop 6" off the tip.

What about a cheap "tip-flex" and cut 6" off the butt? — Charlie…

Response:

I considered that – get a cheap blank and chop 6" off the tip. What about a cheap "tip-flex" and cut 6" off the butt?

It’ll speed up the rod somewhat by the line rating probably won’t change. It’s probably the least risky of the two ends.  Alternately, if I found an 11′ 4 piece, I just leave off the bottom piece.  Daiwa has a few in that length that I should check out. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I used to have a short 7 wt. and my son owns one too, unfortunately they are (were) both 2 piece rods and I need one that’ll fit in the trunk of the Golf.  Apart from spending big bucks on a saltwater Vector or Heliply, I’m SOL.   Anyone know of an affordable 8′6" multi piece 7 wt.? BTW, my previous short 7 wt. and my son’s are mostly used for smallies, small stream steelheading, and fishing from drift boats etc. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Petah I’d look at http://www.tomwhite.com I’ve gotten several of his GLoomis IMX blems and they’ve been turned into fine rods. He’s friendly, has good service and ships at 1/2 of warp speed. YMMV Flyfish

Response:

Petah I’d look at http://www.tomwhite.com I’ve gotten several of his GLoomis IMX blems and they’ve been turned into fine rods. He’s friendly, has good service and ships at 1/2 of warp speed.

Anyone have a source for spey rod blems (or just a good source for spey blanks)?  Winter’s coming up and I’ve got an itch to build a new rod. Thanks,      - Ken

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – And if I may, why does it have to fit in the trunk?  Is it a security thing, or…???  Either way, a couple of questions – are you willing to finish/refinish something, and does it have to graphite? TC, R I know that there are some fiberglass blanks kicking around in a 7 wt. (Fenglas?) but they generally don’t have the horsepower to handle wind, etc. so that’s why I wasn’t really considering them. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

I was actually thinking of the Eagle Claw/Wright and McGill travel rods (some are combo spin/fly) or "redesigning" something like an older (and cheaper) Silaflex or Conolon fiberglass rods out there by adding joints. You could find an old darlin’ for 10-20.00US (800CDN <G), and be done for under 100.00US and a small amount of time.  FWIW, a lot of the old rods in the range in question will toss some line.  Of course, they aren’t featherweights, and Lefty won’t wanna borrow your gear, but OTOH, Lefty won’t wanna borrow yer gear <G.  And if some punk does "borrow" your gear, it ain’t the end of the world. TC, R

Response:

I used to have a short 7 wt. and my son owns one too, unfortunately they are (were) both 2 piece rods and I need one that’ll fit in the trunk of the Golf.  Apart from spending big bucks on a saltwater Vector or Heliply, I’m SOL.   Anyone know of an affordable 8′6" multi piece 7 wt.? BTW, my previous short 7 wt. and my son’s are mostly used for smallies, small stream steelheading, and fishing from drift boats etc. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Just lend me a 9 footer and it will be down to size in no time.

LOL got any spares? Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Check out Temple Fork they have excellent pricing, good selection, I have used several of there rods and have been very happy.

I used to have a short 7 wt. and my son owns one too, unfortunately they are (were) both 2 piece rods and I need one that’ll fit in the trunk of the Golf.  Apart from spending big bucks on a saltwater Vector or Heliply, I’m SOL. Anyone know of an affordable 8′6" multi piece 7 wt.? BTW, my previous short 7 wt. and my son’s are mostly used for smallies, small stream steelheading, and fishing from drift boats etc. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at

http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Check out Temple Fork they have excellent pricing, good selection, I have used several of there rods and have been very happy.

will do, thanks Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Hi Peter, You might have trouble finding a # 7 multipiece shorter than 9′. Orvis might have something. The Redington "Wayfarrer" 9′ #7, 5 pc is $195. The St.Croix "Avid" 9′ #7, 3 pc is $220. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com 800/400-0359 toll free USA

I used to have a short 7 wt. and my son owns one too, unfortunately they are (were) both 2 piece rods and I need one that’ll fit in the trunk of the Golf.  Apart from spending big bucks on a saltwater Vector or Heliply, I’m SOL. Anyone know of an affordable 8′6" multi piece 7 wt.? BTW, my previous short 7 wt. and my son’s are mostly used for smallies, small stream steelheading, and fishing from drift boats etc. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at

http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Hi Peter, You might have trouble finding a # 7 multipiece shorter than 9′. Orvis might have something.

Yup, I know.  The 8′6" length 7wt. apparently is popular as a brookie rod for fishing on Quebec lakes out of canoes and boats.  I found my old one to be ideal for steelheading out of a drift boat and for all day blind casting for smallies.  There used to be a few different models on the market but I suppose the demand for them was low and they’ve been discontinued. I already own a 9′6"  T&T Horizon steelhead 7 wt. so there isn’t much advantage to drop to a 9 footer vs. the 9′6"  I’ve used this rod in boats as well and it’s much more cumbersome for casting, manoeuvering around in the boat, and landing fish.  Its size and weight makes it less than ideal for all day casting.  I’ve mainly used it for nymphing and swinging wets for steelhead, a role for which it excels. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Yup, I know.  The 8′6" length 7wt. apparently is popular as a brookie rod for fishing on Quebec lakes out of canoes and boats.  I found my old one to be ideal for steelheading out of a drift boat and for all day blind casting for smallies.  There used to be a few different models on the market but I suppose the demand for them was low and they’ve been discontinued.

Peter, If the only problem with the rods is portability, have you considered a car top carrier such as a Yakima or Thule? The cost would likely be about the same as a "good" rod, and could be used for other purposes as well. Just a thought. George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

Response:

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – They write about mind control lasers affecting your head, and why you should wear tinfoil, but tinfoil acts as a receiver, so you get MORE of the mind control rays (are just past X-ray range, near Gamma rays. Probably are Gamma rays, actually.) Don’t tell my mother-in-law!  I finally convinced her to wear the aluminum foil helmet (made it myself, actually), and I don’t want to lose credibility with her…

when i wear my foil helmet i sound like a truck in reverse *beep beep beep* headkase – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

No, check it out, like, the device is magnetic, right? And, with enough carefull precision and some-one else’s infected butt one can carefully maneouver the device out through one’s mouth like they did in -now what was that k-ko0l christopher lambert movie in the 80’s again? Anyway, I’ve succeeded in removing mine and am currently on the road towards Mexico with a jammer in my left testicle – if all goes to plan the world will be obliterated by 7 ‘o clock this evening. I can’t give you any more details – Wish me luck. I HEAR THE OLD ONES SPEAK TO ME THROUGH JOHN TRAVOLTA’S RECTUM!!! AND STILL, THE PURPOSE OF LIFE HAS NOT YET DAWNED ON ME!!! PLACE YOUR NIPPLE IN MY MOUTH AND I WILL SHOW YOU ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW!!! GIVE ME MY ORANGE JUICE!!! SHMOO!!! -WIZDUMB. (H3′Z S0 SL1CK) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – They write about mind control lasers affecting your head, and why you should wear tinfoil, but tinfoil acts as a receiver, so you get MORE  of the mind control rays (are just past X-ray range, near Gamma rays.  Probably are Gamma rays, actually.) Don’t tell my mother-in-law!  I finally convinced her to wear the aluminum foil helmet (made it myself, actually), and I don’t want to lose  credibility with her… when i wear my foil helmet i sound like a truck in reverse *beep beep beep* headkase

Response:

hehe made me smile

Response:

hehe made me smile

me too

Response:

i was just let in on a conspiracy from a guy in a black suburban with a flat top…. he had lepard print cup holders and one of those bead seat covers on the passenger side… he started "have you ever met a kid that wanted to be a preast?" "no" i replied as i started out the door he grabbed me and pulled me back in proclaiming i was being watched now. i asked by who, only to see a group of priests across the street.. he sped away, me still in the seat and he started to unveil all he knew. Priests don’t grow up, there aliens… and the pope is a prince… now, whenever a certain area is to be breached they down what the call a faggit, or a fag as we call them to go hit on all the locals, being a fag he is not seen as a threat.. so he integrates himself into the surroundings… quetly making money here and there while he can.  At night time he is contacted in his basement and beams all his money to the collective, now.. when enough money is reached the collective buys what they call a ultimate money raising house… or church, with the tax free income from the brain washed populi that fills the collection baskets and the rich and famous using there own tax evading ways (set up by the aliens using another node that comes out of the spine)[acid is the way to get around this node... hence the alien populis created drug charges for the drug... this also explains why the 60's/early 70's where creative times... we thought for ourselves] now, jesus was really an alien named bob that used his powers for good… the aliens being evil nailed him to a piece of wood and raped him… many times (there all gay remember) now back to the preists of doom. They followed us down the local blvd. using penis shaped ships… they were cloaked but we say them on the acid boys saburben heat sensors… they cornered us in a ally, when all of a sudden he started to bump suvivor by destiny’s child… he then said the aliens hated women and bad music… and destiny’s child was the worst enemy sense there all secretly lesbain.  which goes into another conspiracy regarding Nuns… but that will come at another time… if your not into acid he also revieled that nude pictures of the golden girls in your wallet also helped cancel out the node. Tyler.

Response:

They write about mind control lasers affecting your head, and why you should wear tinfoil, but tinfoil acts as a receiver, so you get MORE of the mind control rays (are just past X-ray range, near Gamma rays. Probably are Gamma rays, actually.)

Don’t tell my mother-in-law!  I finally convinced her to wear the aluminum foil helmet (made it myself, actually), and I don’t want to lose credibility with her…

Response:

Well, I’ve been reading up on conspiracy theories. Why? probably because my tinfoil isn’t working. Well, here’s a summary of what’s actually going on: The Illuminati do have orbital mind control lasers. But they’re not the Illuminati, that’s just a front. They’re aliens. Government aliens. And they have written many of the conspiracy theories – yeas, especially "Secret Squirrel." They write about mind control lasers affecting your head, and why you should wear tinfoil, but tinfoil acts as a receiver, so you get MORE of the mind control rays (are just past X-ray range, near Gamma rays. Probably are Gamma rays, actually.) They write about alien implants, and even abduct people to spread these theories, always being sure to have them believe the implants are in their heads. Of course, people even tell them, even if they don’t believe them, that it is all in their heads. But is it? No, that’s the conspiracy. You see, they are putting the mind control chips in your ass. How does it work? well, everyone has nerves in their ass, which it attaches to. Very few people check their ass for scars, so few people notice. It’s not active all the time, just when they really need it, and they have to reabduct people every few months to change the batteries. What are the signs? Hemmorhoids. Hemmorhoids are a sure sign you are allergic to the implant, or have just had it replaced and are still sore from the implantation. Other signs include an overwhelming desire to scream "you are a fucking idiot" at random people, especially scientologists. Scientologists are not immune, but are usually controlled by a rival, even more evil, conspiracy. You see, these conspiracies have been at war for thousands of years. The Illuminati are against Scientology, and if they control your ass, will force you to hate John Travolta. But you hated John Travolta before? Yes, this is what they want you to think. Of course, their is a solution. Wrapping your head in tinfoil only exposes you to MORE mindcontrol rays (tinfoil works like an antenna). So, what you need to do instead, is wrap your ass in duct tape. Really. And don’t ever take it off at night, for that is what they want you to do. When you are sleeping is the most important time to wear the duct tape, as that is when they will try to abduct you. Also, to stop them, boobytrap your ass. Really. Moustraps on the outside of the duct tape work good, and can be ducttaped on themselves. Rattraps work even better, but have the drawback of occasionally trapping a rat on your ass, which is not a fun thing, especially if rats have a natural tendency to search your ass for food. Glue mousetraps should not be worn, as they tend to trap, well, the chair you sit on, which is rarely a good thing. Garlic, of course, can always be used in addition to the traps, just in case the Illuminati are allergic to it. Never use mines or explosives, just in case the Illuminati do trigger your ass. And remember, all is not what it seems, especially with tinfoil on your head and ducttape on your ass. — — theoneflasehaddock formerly of deja.com AIM – the1flasehaddock Suspected GLOBAL VILLAGE IDIOT. founder of the ‘Royal Discordian Opposition to the Cursed Number after Nine and Before Seven’ Known mad Imposter Fuckwit, you hatter bastards

Response:

Well, I’ve been reading up on conspiracy theories. Why? probably because my tinfoil isn’t working. Well, here’s a summary of what’s actually going on: Read GURPS Illuminati. Then remember that the author, Nigel Findley, died shortly after the book was published. It has the most interesting version of the OMCL’s you can find.

I’ve been meaning to read that one for a while, I keep hearing how good it is, I just never get around to finding a copy. Instead, I sit at a computer and troll. Yay. — — theoneflasehaddock formerly of deja.com AIM – the1flasehaddock Suspected GLOBAL VILLAGE IDIOT. founder of the ‘Royal Discordian Opposition to the Cursed Number after Nine and Before Seven’ Known mad Imposter Fuckwit, you hatter bastards

Response:

: Well, I’ve been reading up on conspiracy theories. Why? probably because my : tinfoil isn’t working. Well, here’s a summary of what’s actually going on: : : The Illuminati do have orbital mind control lasers. But they’re not the : Illuminati, that’s just a front. They’re aliens. Government aliens. And they : have written many of the conspiracy theories – yeas, especially "Secret : Squirrel." They write about mind control lasers affecting your head, and why : you should wear tinfoil, but tinfoil acts as a receiver, so you get MORE of : the mind control rays (are just past X-ray range, near Gamma rays. Probably : are Gamma rays, actually.) You need to use ARSCC-approved tinfoil hat to keep the mind control waves out of your head.  The ARSCC R&D Lab guarantees they are effective against even Scientology’s toadally gnarly Operating Thetans who can kill you with a thought. Perry Scott Co$ Escapee (ARSCC = alt.religion.scientology Central Committee.  It does not exist.  Really!  Now, see this red light?  … )

Response:

Well, I’ve been reading up on conspiracy theories. Why? probably because my tinfoil isn’t working. Well, here’s a summary of what’s actually going on:

Read GURPS Illuminati. Then remember that the author, Nigel Findley, died shortly after the book was published. It has the most interesting version of the OMCL’s you can find. —   /   Marc Etienne Lachance, HOKuM, LMAA  /<  Episkopos without a cabal, /____ Non-Leader of Something or Another.

Response:

Ever read "Foucault’s Pendulum"? I can’t look at another conspiracy theory the same, now. But, here’s mine:  there _is_ a conspiracy, only it’s not perpetrated by anyone in control of any government, or supergovernment, or occult organisation, or racial group or whatever.  It’s perpetrated by a wide variety of people with enough money not to worry about where their next meal is coming from, or about whether they’ll have a place to sleep, who are so caught up in trying to find some outside, all-encompassing explanation for why they got turned down at the bank for that loan for a jetski, or why Tammy didn’t win first at her school athletics day, or why Uncle Rob got cancer, that they lose sight of the places where they really _are_ being manipulated. Instead of spending some time thinking about (and getting mad about) the unequal distribution of resources (particularly food, but money can always by food, even in a famine) between the First and Third World, they get all anti about GE and how horrible it is that they’re forced to eat fly genes in those nice, fresh tomatoes.   Instead of getting active about overpopulation and/or too-low birth rates, they crow and complain when the government tries to steal _their_ money to build another road or add another few dollars to some superannuation scheme. Instead of seeing that eating unhealthily, not exercising, not going for regular check-ups and not following medical advice, they complain that it’s actually cellphones and suppressed anger and rays from spy satellites that makes them sick.     Instead of doing something constructive to lower the costs of medication to people in other countries (particularly for AIDS medication in Central Africa) to a level that is actually something lower than ten times their yearly income for a year-long course, they moan and whinge about how it’s actually vaccination that creates all the terrible sicknesses that we see in our everyday suburban, middle-class neighbourhood. I could (and will) go on about this, but you get the idea……. Love you heaps, Altair "We didn’t know they were going to drop a space station on us." -Trevor Canty, New Zealand fishing boat skipper, quoted in the New Zealand Herald, March 23, 2001. Coven of the Triple Moon: http://www.geocities.com.Paris/Cafe/8564/

Response:

Question:

Hello. I’m Art Daudelin, a writer on assignment for "Physicians Financial News." I’m doing a piece on Fly Fishing and would like to speak with someone who can give me an overview and philosophy of the sport, as well as some tips, travel spots, etc. An M.D. would make a great subject for an interview, as the magazine is targeted to physicians, but any good insight would be welcome. E-mail me if you are interested… thanks in advance, art daudelin

Response:

If I didn’t fish whenever possible, I’d strangle every911 callin, terminally unemployable slob who gets on teh medic…. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello. I’m Art Daudelin, a writer on assignment for "Physicians Financial News." I’m doing a piece on Fly Fishing and would like to speak with someone who can give me an overview and philosophy of the sport, as well as some tips, travel spots, etc. An M.D. would make a great subject for an interview, as the magazine is targeted to physicians, but any good insight would be welcome. E-mail me if you are interested… thanks in advance, art daudelin

Response:

Question:

Hi John, Steffen Rods are built by the Steffen brothers, their company is located in Northern Arizona near Lee’s Ferry.  They build extremely fine rods. You may have gotten that one for a steal, if it was cheap in a swap meet.  These rods should easily compare to Scott, Sage, Loomis, etc. in quality. The only difference, naturally is the action of the rod.  Steffen Bro’s do build their own blanks. These rods are not too well known, because the boys aren’t very dependable in shipping rods out to their retailers. Certain times of the year, fishing on Lee’s Ferry is more important than making an income.  A lot of retailers will not stock their rods for this reason. Although, sometimes I have to agree with their attitude about fishing before working. It must depend on how much cash you have in the bank. Good Luck Bill — William Endicott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently acquired a rod at an estate sale.  The seller didn’t know the history of it.  It is graphite, marked Steffen Rod Co.  The blanck is unsanded gray, reminiscent of a Scott Power Ply.  Does anyone know anything about the Steffen Rod Co.?  Are they still in business?  Is this just a custom built Powerply or is it actualy a blank made for this company?  Any help you can give me would be appreciated.  BTW…it doesn’t cast half bad. John Woodling Sacramento, CA

Response:

Does anyone know anything about the Steffen Rod Co.?  Are they still in business?  Is this just a custom built Powerply or is it actualy a blank made for this company? John Woodling Sacramento, CA

John; Steffen Rod Co. is based in Arizona, but I’m not sure of the town. Their rods are much more popular out there in the West than they are here in the East. However, they are gaining in popularity.  They "roll their own" at Steffen.  They are very competent rods.  They are certainly still in business, but you don’t hear much about them.  They forego national advertising to keep their overhead at a minimum.  They also don’t offer an unlimited warrantee, but will repair rods at a reasonable price.  Right now, they only offer 2 series of rods.  One is like yours and the other is sanded and with fancier hardware, but it’s the same rod, essentially.  We have a guy here in eastern PA who sells their stuff.  Very good casting rods for $250.  Compared to my Scott Alpha, they are significantly slower; not that it is a *bad* thing. Jason Beary

Response:

I recently acquired a rod at an estate sale.  The seller didn’t know the history of it.  It is graphite, marked Steffen Rod Co.  The blanck is unsanded gray, reminiscent of a Scott Power Ply.  Does anyone know anything about the Steffen Rod Co.?  Are they still in business?  Is this just a custom built Powerply or is it actualy a blank made for this company?  Any help you can give me would be appreciated.  BTW…it doesn’t cast half bad. John Woodling Sacramento, CA

Dear John: Mark Steffen, of Steffen Brothers, lives in Flagstaff, Arizona. He sells his rods locally through Peace Surplus Sporting Stores, 779-4521. Mark is the current President of the our local fly fishing group…. Northern Arizona Flycasters, Inc. Besides making great rods, he is an all around good guy, hardcore fisherman and fly fishing activist. Give him a call if you have any questions. Dawson Henderson

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently acquired a rod at an estate sale.  The seller didn’t know the history of it.  It is graphite, marked Steffen Rod Co.  The blanck is unsanded gray, reminiscent of a Scott Power Ply.  Does anyone know anything about the Steffen Rod Co.?  Are they still in business?  Is this just a custom built Powerply or is it actualy a blank made for this company?  Any help you can give me would be appreciated.  BTW…it doesn’t cast half bad. John Woodling Sacramento, CA Dear John: Mark Steffen, of Steffen Brothers, lives in Flagstaff, Arizona. He sells his rods locally through Peace Surplus Sporting Stores, 779-4521. Mark is the current President of the our local fly fishing group…. Northern Arizona Flycasters, Inc. Besides making great rods, he is an all around good guy, hardcore fisherman and fly fishing activist. Give him a call if you have any questions. Dawson Henderson

I have fished Steffen steelhead (8wt) and 4-piece 6-wt rods for years. They are marvelous. I use the 4-piece in New Zealand just about every day for 4-6 week trips and find that it handles innumerable large fish, horrendous wind, and roll-casting very heavy nymphs on the Tongariro like no other rod.The Midge in Los Altos Calif carries the rods. If you have trouble with a Steffen, the maker repairs them very well. Try it, you’ll like it!!

Response:

Hi ! Does anybody know, how to purchase one of these rods here in europe witout knowing a pal who travels the US frequently ?? TIA

Response:

I recently acquired a rod at an estate sale.  The seller didn’t know the history of it.  It is graphite, marked Steffen Rod Co.  The blanck is unsanded gray, reminiscent of a Scott Power Ply.  Does anyone know anything about the Steffen Rod Co.?  Are they still in business?  Is this just a custom built Powerply or is it actualy a blank made for this company?  Any help you can give me would be appreciated.  BTW…it doesn’t cast half bad. John Woodling Sacramento, CA

Response:

Question:

Stick with the hardwood patches for the planks.  Ignore the loose canvas unless it is peeling off.  (As long as it is well attached along the stems and gunwales.)  Sand lightly (wet or dry) being careful not to sand into the fabric.  Paint with marine grade paint: flat, semi, or gloss … your choice.  Classic Boatworks. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Howdy all!  I need some help here. I own a canvas-covered cedar ribbed canoe [Chestnut Prospector Fort Garry, circa 1970] in need of repairs and paint.  First, any books to recommend? I have borrowed Stelmok and Thurlow’s *The Wood & Canvas Canoe*.  Fine book and great for anybody wishing to restore a canvas canoe, but I would prefer not to "restore" the canoe.  Any other books? Specifically: Some of the planks are cracked.  My father in the past has placed small flat pieces of hard-wood over these cracks and held them in place with marine epoxy. Varnish then covers the works. It appears to have worked well over the years.  I might use small pieces of cedar instead.  I would prefer not to use sheet-metal and have to remove the ribs. The paint is cracked and peeled.  The canvas is a little loose in a couple of places.  Trail-Head in Ottawa painted the canoe for me in 1994 and frankly, I do not think they did a good job. I need to strip it all off and re-paint, I would assume.  How? Wet-and-dry sand paper?  Chemical?  If so, which chemical?  Should I remove the keel before removing the paint?  Use a semi-gloss finish as recommended by Stelmok and Thurlow? I do not believe that the canoe needs to re-canvased.  I use it presently to fly fish for kamloops trout in the Merritt/Kamloops area and it works fine. Cheers, Burnaby, BC

Response:

Check out the Wooden Canoe Heritage Association site and you’ll find all the help you can handle. Rich Briere – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Howdy all!  I need some help here. I own a canvas-covered cedar ribbed canoe [Chestnut Prospector Fort Garry, circa 1970] in need of repairs and paint.  First, any books to recommend? I have borrowed Stelmok and Thurlow’s *The Wood & Canvas Canoe*.  Fine book and great for anybody wishing to restore a canvas canoe, but I would prefer not to "restore" the canoe.  Any other books? Specifically: Some of the planks are cracked.  My father in the past has placed small flat pieces of hard-wood over these cracks and held them in place with marine epoxy. Varnish then covers the works. It appears to have worked well over the years.  I might use small pieces of cedar instead.  I would prefer not to use sheet-metal and have to remove the ribs. The paint is cracked and peeled.  The canvas is a little loose in a couple of places.  Trail-Head in Ottawa painted the canoe for me in 1994 and frankly, I do not think they did a good job. I need to strip it all off and re-paint, I would assume.  How? Wet-and-dry sand paper?  Chemical?  If so, which chemical?  Should I remove the keel before removing the paint?  Use a semi-gloss finish as recommended by Stelmok and Thurlow? I do not believe that the canoe needs to re-canvased.  I use it presently to fly fish for kamloops trout in the Merritt/Kamloops area and it works fine. Cheers, Burnaby, BC

Response:

Howdy all!  I need some help here. I own a canvas-covered cedar ribbed canoe [Chestnut Prospector Fort Garry, circa 1970] in need of repairs and paint.  First, any books to recommend? I have borrowed Stelmok and Thurlow’s *The Wood & Canvas Canoe*.  Fine book and great for anybody wishing to restore a canvas canoe, but I would prefer not to "restore" the canoe.  Any other books?

This book is the "bible" of wood canvas canoe repair and restoration, so don’t be afraid of it. You don’t have to be doing a major restoration to appreciate the techniques and advice that the book has to offer. As for other books, there are books and articles available from and on the WCHA website that might be of some help to you. Specifically: Some of the planks are cracked.  My father in the past has placed small flat pieces of hard-wood over these cracks and held them in place with marine epoxy. Varnish then covers the works. It appears to have worked well over the years.  I might use small pieces of cedar instead.  I would prefer not to use sheet-metal and have to remove the ribs.

Don’t use metal. It’s ugly and not necessary. You can glue/screw on patches over cracked ribs as long as you don’t have too many in a row that are broken. Stain them the color of the wood and varnish over the whole area. It will work out fine.  If you decide to recanvas you may want to try a backside rib repair. This is detailed in a Wooden Canoe back issue available at the WCHA website. The paint is cracked and peeled.  The canvas is a little loose in a couple of places.  Trail-Head in Ottawa painted the canoe for me in 1994 and frankly, I do not think they did a good job.

If the canoe leaks, remember that painting will not help much. Leaks are caused by cracked filler, not cracked paint. The paint protects the filler and if this is cracked, your options are more limited. You can try to fill the cracks with bondo or something similar, but I generally take this as an indication that the canoe needs to be recanvassed. I need to strip it all off and re-paint, I would assume.  How? Wet-and-dry sand paper?  Chemical?  If so, which chemical?  Should I remove the keel before removing the paint?  Use a semi-gloss finish as recommended by Stelmok and Thurlow?

Chemical strippers may eat right through the filler, depending on the formula used. Sanding down to the filler is fine, but be sure not to sand too deeply and expose canvas weave or it’ll leak for sure.  Paint is your choice, but I use marine enamel. Semi-gloss tends to not show imperfections in the filler as gloss does, but many people use gloss paint to advantage. I do not believe that the canoe needs to re-canvased.  I use it presently to fly fish for kamloops trout in the Merritt/Kamloops area and it works fine.

Good, although canvassing is not all that tough. There are a couple of articles and back issues of Wooden Canoe that talk about it. Jerry and Rollin’s book also details it well. You can do it yourself for about $150 in materials and an afternoon’s worth of time. Enjoy your canoe. They make great friends. -Tim — Tim Hewitt – Webmaster Wooden Canoe Heritage Association, Ltd http://www.wcha.org

Response:

Howdy all!  I need some help here. I own a canvas-covered cedar ribbed canoe [Chestnut Prospector Fort Garry, circa 1970] in need of repairs and paint.  First, any books to recommend? I have borrowed Stelmok and Thurlow’s *The Wood & Canvas Canoe*.  Fine book and great for anybody wishing to restore a canvas canoe, but I would prefer not to "restore" the canoe.  Any other books? Specifically: Some of the planks are cracked.  My father in the past has placed small flat pieces of hard-wood over these cracks and held them in place with marine epoxy. Varnish then covers the works. It appears to have worked well over the years.  I might use small pieces of cedar instead.  I would prefer not to use sheet-metal and have to remove the ribs. The paint is cracked and peeled.  The canvas is a little loose in a couple of places.  Trail-Head in Ottawa painted the canoe for me in 1994 and frankly, I do not think they did a good job. I need to strip it all off and re-paint, I would assume.  How? Wet-and-dry sand paper?  Chemical?  If so, which chemical?  Should I remove the keel before removing the paint?  Use a semi-gloss finish as recommended by Stelmok and Thurlow? I do not believe that the canoe needs to re-canvased.  I use it presently to fly fish for kamloops trout in the Merritt/Kamloops area and it works fine. Cheers, Burnaby, BC

Response:

Question:

After reading this group for a couple of years it has become clear that a lot of people either have much more disposable income than I do, or that my priorities are skewed somehow.  At any rate, I’m looking for a new rod to replace the old glass Fenwick I’ve fished for 15+ years, but I don’t want to shell out $300.  Or even $200.  Less than $100 would be great–

Well, Derek, there is both bad news and good news for you. Yes, there was a time long ago when it was possible to fool a trout and enjoy a "quality angling experience" (QAE to those of us in the industry) with a $100 rod, but those days are long behind us. As we approach the turn of a century, studies show that there are very few trout in today’s streams that will engage anglers who use inexpensive rods. Sure, some anglers will tell you that when it comes to rod blanks, "plastic is plastic", but someone who really knows the industry will answer "yes, but some plastics are more plastic than others". Having arrived at this dilemma, your choice becomes clear. The good news for you, Derek, is that you are unlikely to find many rods for less than $200, making it much easier for you to avoid an inexpensive flyrod by simply paying more money for an expensive one. Moreover, a knowledgeable rod merchant will surely do all he can to guide you toward the most expensive alternative to an inexpensive purchase. Spinolio

Response:

Want I want is simple, an 8.5′ 5wt rod that will cast well enough to keep me happy and won’t fall apart. The St. Croix Pro Graphite rods have gotten very good reviews, I often hear them being called the best value in fly fishing. I think cost $75 or so. St. Croix Imperials and Redington Red Start rods are also supposed to be nice, they cost between $100 and $150.

Several people have made this recommendation.  The problem is, there are no fly shops anywhere near me.  The only place in town with fly gear sells G. Loomis rods (at list) to yuppies, and little else (it’s just a sporting goods store).  Anyone know of a good mail order source?  Some place with a friendly return policy? Test cast them all and let me know how it comes out!

Can anyone recommend a fly shop (or a good sporting retailer) in Indianapolis or Louisville?  I usually wait until I’m back in Oregon/Idaho visiting family to buy anything of significance (Kaufman’s Streamborne in PDX, and Intermountain Arms in Boise). — Derek R. Larson           Indiana University       Department of History   "Eastward I go by force, but Westward I go free!"  -H. D. Thoreau

Response:

Not quite….the Legend Series St Croix is 42 million mods, while the less expensive Imperial is 32 million modulus, and is a somewhat slower action rod.

I like a slower action, and fortunately (for me) the slower rods can be less expensive (unless you get into split cane, but that’s a whole other topic).   When you’re rod shopping, one method that works pretty well is to not only test cast the rod (or rods) you’re thinking of buying, but to also test a more expensive rod, so you have something for comparison.  You may even find that the less expensive rod is more to your liking.  Find the rod that is right for you, and to hell with what you’re "supposed" to prefer.  The emperor has no clothes. CQ

Response:

Rick Fletcher wrote to: [snip] try and build from a blank.  It’s worth the time and money saved, just like tying.

Interesting idea. How much would it cost to build my own $300 rod? How much is saved? bird

Response:

Several people have made this recommendation.  The problem is, there are no fly shops anywhere near me.  The only place in town with fly gear sells G. Loomis rods (at list) to yuppies, and little else (it’s just a sporting goods store).  Anyone know of a good mail order source?  Some place with a friendly return policy?

Ask the ownner if you can look at his gear catalogues – he is visited weekly by fishing gear salesmen who would gladly sell him anything he wanted to buy.  He probably keeps the catalogues in the back office.  Ask when the local salesman (or saleswoman) is coming through, and you can ask them about their lines.  If the guy won’t help you do this, boycott the store.

Response:

Its my understanding that all of the St. Croix series use the same graphite.  Thus no difference in performance.

I looked over both the Pro and the Imperial.  About the only differences that I noticed were the blank and the performance.   Both were good rods, but IMHO, the Imperial was much better, and only a little bit more expensive. CQ

Response:

Yes, there was a time long ago when it was possible to fool a trout and enjoy a "quality angling experience" (QAE to those of us in the industry) with a $100 rod, but those days are long behind us. As we approach the turn of a century, studies show that there are very few trout in today’s streams that will engage anglers who use inexpensive rods.

Mr. Spinolio:  I really must disagree with your comments about the price of a rod significantly impacting on an anglers success rate.  With respect to the U.S.A., I’ll bow to your experience; but in my area of Canada, I don’t agree that this correlation applies.  Granted, we don’t get the pressure on our streams that Montana residents do; but I happily take large browns on the most heavily fished river in Ontario with both my Sage graphite, an old Algonquin "feralite" and a cane rod left to me by my father that’s older than Moses. IMHO an angler adapts his skills to his tackle.  It’s no doubt easier to fish a $5000.00 custom made bamboo than an old glass rod…but if you can’t afford the custom, buy the best you can afford and go fishing.  I’ve never known a fish to check the price tag on a rod before inhaling a nymph.    Here’s a suggestion for Derek that may allow him to buy good tackle for a fraction of the cost of new.  Go to your local fly fishing school, (there’s probably one near by…they’re popping up like mushrooms after a spring rain) and ask them if they have any rods for sale.  You’ll be amazed.  Especially if you offer cash and don’t ask for a receipt.  Then you’ll have quality, cheaply, and you can worry about your backcast as opposed to the cost of your rod.   Jim Ward Twin Willow Farm Home of good horses, fine whiskey and great wild trout.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Want I want is simple, an 8.5′ 5wt rod that will cast well enough to keep me happy and won’t fall apart. The St. Croix Pro Graphite rods have gotten very good reviews, I often hear them being called the best value in fly fishing. I think cost $75 or so. St. Croix Imperials and Redington Red Start rods are also supposed to be nice, they cost between $100 and $150. Several people have made this recommendation.  The problem is, there are no fly shops anywhere near me.  The only place in town with fly gear sells G. Loomis rods (at list) to yuppies, and little else (it’s just a sporting goods store).  Anyone know of a good mail order source?  Some place with a friendly return policy? Test cast them all and let me know how it comes out! Can anyone recommend a fly shop (or a good sporting retailer) in Indianapolis or Louisville?  I usually wait until I’m back in Oregon/Idaho visiting family to buy anything of significance (Kaufman’s Streamborne in PDX, and Intermountain Arms in Boise). — Derek R. Larson           Indiana University       Department of History   "Eastward I go by force, but Westward I go free!"  -H. D. Thoreau

There is a recent Orvis shop up nin the Keystone area; nice folks.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – …I’m looking for a new rod to replace the old glass Fenwick I’ve fished for 15+ years, but I don’t want to shell out $300.  Or even $200.  Less than $100 would be great… Check out the St. Croix Imperial graphite.   They list for $120, which includes a rod case, and lifetime guarantee. I just bought one (a 9′ 4/5wt); cast it and a Diamondback side by side, and thought the St. Croix was better.  They also make a Pro series, that costs less, but for the performance, the Imperial is a better buy. CQ Its my understanding that all of the St. Croix series use the same graphite.  Thus no difference in performance.  But I agree, they are a great buy. Jim

Hi Jim,      Not quite….the Legend Series St Croix is 42 million mods, while the less expensive      Imperial is 32 million modulus, and is a somewhat slower action rod. I own their      4 piece 5/6 travel rod, and the little 7′ 3 wt, and believe St Croix is one of the best buys      on the market. connection with the company,      just a satisfied customer. Regards,

Response:

Derek, another suggestion:  I just recently bought a 8.5, 5 wt rod from Orvis.   It is part of a relatively new series of less-expensive rods, called the Clearwater series.  Its a good rod, similar to their more expensive rods, and you can definitely mail order it from Orvis. Steve

Response:

…I’m looking for a new rod to replace the old glass Fenwick I’ve fished for 15+ years, but I don’t want to shell out $300.  Or even $200.  Less than $100 would be great… Check out the St. Croix Imperial graphite.   They list for $120, which includes a rod case, and lifetime guarantee. I just bought one (a 9′ 4/5wt); cast it and a Diamondback side by side, and thought the St. Croix was better.  They also make a Pro series, that costs less, but for the performance, the Imperial is a better buy. CQ

Its my understanding that all of the St. Croix series use the same graphite.  Thus no difference in performance.  But I agree, they are a great buy. Jim

Response:

: After reading this group for a couple of years it has become clear that a : lot of people either have much more disposable income than I do, or that : my priorities are skewed somehow.  At any rate, I’m looking for a new rod [snip] Sheesh Derek, you’ve been around here long enough to have heard all this before.  Are you just trying to bait a war? I suggest you try Lamiglass and Reddington.  And I strongly recommend you try and build from a blank.  It’s worth the time and money saved, just like tying. — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

Response:

…I’m looking for a new rod to replace the old glass Fenwick I’ve fished for 15+ years, but I don’t want to shell out $300.  Or even $200.  Less than $100 would be great… Check out the St. Croix Imperial graphite. They list for $120, which includes a rod case, and lifetime guarantee. I just bought one (a 9′ 4/5wt); cast it and a Diamondback side by side, and thought the St. Croix was better.  They also make a Pro series, that costs less, but for the performance, the Imperial is a better buy. CQ

THIS IS GOOD news to hear, for me. — George Gehrke/President Gehrke’s World’s Best Fly Fishing Products Asotin, WA 99402 509-243-4100  FAX 4644

Response:

Derek I own three Lamiglass rods that have served me well for quite a long time. Cabelas carried them as recently as last year for under $100 but I don’t see them is this year’s catalog. They may still have some if you call them. Some flyshops may have a few left as well. Also, you might consider building your own rod. You can control the parts of it that are most important to you but still keep the cost down. You don’t really need, IMHO, the expensive wrapping platforms etc. Dave

I allways thought the best inexpensive rod was the one you could afford to buy.

Response:

After reading this group for a couple of years it has become clear that a lot of people either have much more disposable income than I do, or that my priorities are skewed somehow.  At any rate, I’m looking for a new rod to replace the old glass Fenwick I’ve fished for 15+ years, -Derek

Hi Derek Most fly shops have rental equipment and often sell that equipment a the end of the season. Check with a few and see if you can’t get a bargain. — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html

Response:

Derek I own three Lamiglass rods that have served me well for quite a long time. Cabelas carried them as recently as last year for under $100 but I don’t see them is this year’s catalog. They may still have some if you call them. Some flyshops may have a few left as well. Also, you might consider building your own rod. You can control the parts of it that are most important to you but still keep the cost down. You don’t really need, IMHO, the expensive wrapping platforms etc. Dave

Response:

Derek, I am in the same boat as you financially. The kids, house, dogs, make it tough to shell out $300 on a rod. I have a post on this board about the Cabela’s Fish Eagle Traditional rod, 8′6" 6wt for $96. We’ll see what the response is. There’s a brand out there called Hi-Tech (HT) that are supposed to be good rods at great prices, but I can’t find any retail outlets that stock them.  

You can afford a dog!?!?!?  You lucky so and so.  Had to eat ours last year!  This year we had to rent a used turkey for christmas!  Bloody luxury. Mike

Response:

Want I want is simple, an 8.5′ 5wt rod that will cast well enough to keep me happy and won’t fall apart.

The St. Croix Pro Graphite rods have gotten very good reviews, I often hear them being called the best value in fly fishing. I think cost $75 or so. St. Croix Imperials and Redington Red Start rods are also supposed to be nice, they cost between $100 and $150. Test cast them all and let me know how it comes out! Tight lines, Tom Chandler Tom Chandler   "When in doubt, have two guys come through the door with guns."                                               –Raymond Chandler

Response:

…I’m looking for a new rod to replace the old glass Fenwick I’ve fished for 15+ years, but I don’t want to shell out $300.  Or even $200.  Less than $100 would be great…

Check out the St. Croix Imperial graphite.   They list for $120, which includes a rod case, and lifetime guarantee. I just bought one (a 9′ 4/5wt); cast it and a Diamondback side by side, and thought the St. Croix was better.  They also make a Pro series, that costs less, but for the performance, the Imperial is a better buy. CQ

Response:

Hi Derek- Have you considered buying a used rod? There are several sites on the internet that have "classified" areas where people sell used stuff at much lower prices than new. The virtual flyshop has one such area, but there are others. I recently bought a used tying vise and sold my old one in this way. You may be able to pick up a $300 rod for $100. Check it out. Good luck! Steve Rosenblum

Response:

Want I want is simple, an 8.5′ 5wt rod that will cast well enough to keep me happy and won’t fall apart……entry-level Orvis outfit (Clearwater 865) looks okay, but is there anything else to compare in the $100 price range?  While home over the holidays I looked at some new rods "made" by an outfit called Northwest-X or somesuch in Lake Oswego, Oregon– they were at GI Joes, about $80 for a 5wt 8.5".  Didn’t cast one though.  Anyone familar with that line? Thanks for any tips– please post responses rather than email so all can comment. -Derek —

Greetings Derek:         I just started flyfishing about a year ago, so take my advice with a grain of salt.  I started out with a 2-piece 5wt, 8.5ft, that I got as a package deal from LL Bean.  I more recently purchased a 4-piece, 4wt, 7.5ft travel rod from them as well.  The 5wt ran me $200, reel and all; the 4wt, $110, reel, case and all.  Bean also sells the rod and reel set they use in teaching their classes, for a reasonable price (in the $100-150 range). They may not be the greatest rods, given other people’s comments at this site, but you can get a medium or fast-ish action rod from them, that are all lifetime guaranteed.  I have really enjoyed my two rods, and they certainly got me out and fishing with a minimum investment.  Hope this helps you out. Dan Johnson – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Derek R. Larson           Indiana University       Department of History   "Eastward I go by force, but Westward I go free!"  -H. D. Thoreau

Response:

Check out the Cabela’s catalog, their own are pretty good, as are the St Croix’s and Reddingtons, but in that 8′6" range don’t count out the inexpensive Pfluger (also in the catalog)  Call them if you don’t have the current FF catalog 1/800-237-4444 I am not related in any way to them, but at the low end of the price spectrum, where I started, they have yet to disappoint me.  All of their house brand equip and gear has served me well. jg

Response:

Derek, I am in the same boat as you financially. The kids, house, dogs, make it tough to shell out $300 on a rod. I have a post on this board about the Cabela’s Fish Eagle Traditional rod, 8′6" 6wt for $96. We’ll see what the response is. There’s a brand out there called Hi-Tech (HT) that are supposed to be good rods at great prices, but I can’t find any retail outlets that stock them.  

Response:

Want I want is simple, an 8.5′ 5wt rod that will cast well enough to keep me happy and won’t fall apart.

Under $100, consider the Cortland GRF-1000.  Under $200, consider the Sage Discovery (Model 580 DS).  Doubtless there are other good choices too.  Try to actually cast the rod before buying it, to ensure that you’ll be happy with its performance. Woods Hole, MA   USA

Response:

After reading this group for a couple of years it has become clear that a lot of people either have much more disposable income than I do, or that my priorities are skewed somehow.  At any rate, I’m looking for a new rod to replace the old glass Fenwick I’ve fished for 15+ years, but I don’t want to shell out $300.  Or even $200.  Less than $100 would be great– I don’t get to fish nearly as much in Indiana as I did growing up in Oregon (all my steelhead gear, all my packable trout gear, etc. etc. is still out there collecting dust).   Want I want is simple, an 8.5′ 5wt rod that will cast well enough to keep me happy and won’t fall apart.  My wife has a Cabella’s rod (the Sweetwater?) that was given to her as a gift; it’s not great, but I often use it rather than the 8wt. Fenwick I brought out here with me.  The stores around here either sell junk (Eagle Claw, Pflueger) or G. Loomis, so it may have to be mail order. The entry-level Orvis outfit (Clearwater 865) looks okay, but is there anything else to compare in the $100 price range?  While home over the holidays I looked at some new rods "made" by an outfit called Northwest-X or somesuch in Lake Oswego, Oregon– they were at GI Joes, about $80 for a 5wt 8.5".  Didn’t cast one though.  Anyone familar with that line? Thanks for any tips– please post responses rather than email so all can comment. -Derek — Derek R. Larson           Indiana University       Department of History   "Eastward I go by force, but Westward I go free!"  -H. D. Thoreau

Response:

Question:

does anyone know of any web sites that deal with flyfishing in labrador?

Response:

does anyone know of any web sites that deal with flyfishing in labrador?

a good site is: http://ad-here.com/cfho/NF2.HTM If you’re interested in fly fishing large brook trout contact:         Bill Murphy         owner/operator         Adventure North Ltd.         102 Brentwood Drive, Bedford, Nova Scotia B4A 3S1         ph/fax: 902-835-8033 See Crook’s Lake Lodge featured in this month’s Fly Rod and Reel and Gray’s Sporting Journal The Expeditions Issue. Lynn Martin

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – does anyone know of any web sites that deal with flyfishing in labrador? a good site is: http://ad-here.com/cfho/NF2.HTM If you’re interested in fly fishing large brook trout contact:         Bill Murphy         owner/operator         Adventure North Ltd.         102 Brentwood Drive, Bedford, Nova Scotia B4A 3S1         ph/fax: 902-835-8033 See Crook’s Lake Lodge featured in this month’s Fly Rod and Reel and Gray’s Sporting Journal The Expeditions Issue. Lynn Martin

and the rivers full of Big "Brookies"!        

Response:

tanya try YAHOO ON YOUR BROWSER AND SEE WHAT THAT BRINGS TYPE LABRADOR FLY FISHING GOOD LUCK                    DICK PATREDIS —     In the immortal words of OLD RANCID CRABBTREE    Any time a man ain’t fishing he is frittering away                       HIS LIFE. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – does anyone know of any web sites that deal with flyfishing in labrador?

Response:

does anyone know of any web sites that deal with flyfishing for labradors?

 I don’t know why you would want to fish for a labrador but I would suggest a tennis ball type of pattern (if the labs that you’re after are anything like mine). Maybee chum with some barbeque scraps. MT —             It’s not the bible that’s filled with contradictions,                  It’s our brains that are filled with them.                              J. Vernon McGee

Response:

 I don’t know why you would want to fish for a labrador but I would suggest a tennis ball type of pattern (if the labs that you’re after are anything like mine). Maybee chum with some barbeque scraps.

HAHA!! tennis balls, footballs, snowballs, airballs, sticks, rocks, onions, roadkill…it just doesn’t matter!  Labs are the gamin’est fish in the sea, and they don’t care what you use.  They’re all over it, and that’s why they’re the best dogs ever invented. Right on, Mark. BTW, I grew up with a black lab, and the only thing I found that it wouldn’t eat was canned pineapple – but it loved the fresh stuff.  Smart dog. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – MT —             It’s not the bible that’s filled with contradictions,                  It’s our brains that are filled with them.                              J. Vernon McGee

Response:

Question:

May be ordered from Blu Ribbon Flies in W. Yellowstone.                         Mike in PDX                "When the trout are lost, smash the state."                                            Tom McGuane

Response:

You can find it here and there. Check with Donegals and Castle Arms. Also, Hunters sells some silk floss. I use guderbrod’s (sp) silk. It’s inexpesive ($2-2.5 per spool) and does the job just fine. Charles (Chuck) Abbott      The MITRE Corporation "There is not a single blackfly in the Adirondacks. All are married and have large families." Henry Wells

Response:

Dave Hughes mentions this as the best body material for soft hackles.  Does anyone know a mail order source for this rare stuff?

National Feather-Craft in St. Louis carries the silk in a variety of colors and is a large mail order house so it is easy to have them ship to you. For soft hackle flies you most likely want the silk thread (Gosmer) as opposed to the silk floss (stout). You can reach National Feather-Craft at 800-659-1707.

Response:

 I’m trying to tie size 20-26 midge drys. I can’t find hackle any smaller than 20 on even the most primium grade necks. I am now using darlone and other synthetic materials. What does everyone else use? Also I’d like help in how to tie the synthetics to look like a palmered hackle. I always get something that looks like an elk caddis and not a hackle that goes completely around the fly.

I have the same problem.  I have heard that using half a "normal" hackle in a dubbing loop has the right effect in that it alows you to choose the hackle length, but to date I haven’t tried it.  I can see it being tough to get all the hackle fibres to lie in the same direction doing this however. If you try it, let me know how you get on Russ ps have you tried Darrel Martin’s "Micropatterns" book for ideas ?

Response:

Hoffman. Although, I understand your dilema. It’s ver difficult to size hackle on these small ones.

Response:

Hey, if there is anyone out there who loves to fly fish and has the time to chat a little bit with me about fly fishing, PLEASE send me an E-mail. I am senior at the University of Oregon who started to fly fish last Spring. Fly fishing in my number one priority in life right now and I want to be out there in the rivers as much as I can when the season starts. I really don’t know that many people that fly fish around here so it is kind of frustrating not to have anyone to talk with about flies, rods, fish etc. Thanks, Marcelo

Response:

 I’m trying to tie size 20-26 midge drys. I can’t find hackle any smaller than 20 on even the most primium grade necks. I am now using darlone and other synthetic materials. What does everyone else use? Also I’d like help in how to tie the synthetics to look like a palmered hackle. I always get something that looks like an elk caddis and not a hackle that goes completely around the fly.

Response:

Also I’d like help in how to tie the synthetics to look like a palmered hackle. I always get something that looks like an elk caddis and not a hackle that goes completely around the fly.

You could try a dubbing loop, but on a size 26 fly, that might not be practical. Try ostrich herl. Have you tried CDC? Bob Petti Endwell, NY

Response:

Dave Hughes talks a lot about using Pearsall’s Gossamer silk thread for tying wets, especially soft hackles.  Does anyone know a mail order source for this stuff? — Jim Benenson                 Los Alamos, New Mexico, USA "To protect your rivers, protect your mountains"       Emperor Yu of China, circa 1600 B.C.

Response:

Actually it has nothing to do with fishing…it refers to the thin thread of sanity that kept Jim Pearsall attached to this earth.

Response: