Question:

"Greg Pavlov" wrote  The consolation is that you can then get next  year’s model: it will come with headlights, two  cup holders, and a reverse hydration system.

I assume that’s the women’s version? Bob

Response:

   Well Uncle Wally i guess i will have to have a talk with the big cheese at Simms i thought you was to get the G3"s last month ahead of everyone else.    Well did the rep at least leave the one’s you were prancing around the shop in?                    Handyman Mike           Standing in a river waving a stick

Response:

   Well Uncle Wally i guess i will have to have a talk with the big cheese at Simms i thought you was to get the G3"s last month ahead of everyone else.

shoot mike, that would be unethical <g    Well did the rep at least leave the one’s you were prancing around the shop in?

i tried…. but it was the only pair he had with him on his sales rounds. besides, they were a bit small fer me. he did leave me with some sage stuff to play with. have ya been down to penns lately? i have a buddy that wants to fish it in the spring and we’re planning on a long weekend in march or april. –wally

Response:

Hi everyone! I was planning on buying a pair of Simms guide weight waders when I’m visiting Canada next month. When I contacted a local shop about the waders, they told me that Simms had a new 2003 model of the guide weight waders coming out (the old model will be called ‘Classic Guide’ from now on). Has anyone seen the new model or heard of them? What are the differences?

No, but I figure the *real* difference is about a year. Op  –seriously– – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – — Jarmo Hurri

Response:

Guyz-N-Flyz No, but I figure the *real* difference is about a year. Not *only* that, but also 100CAD. But I’d still be interested to find out. — Jarmo Hurri address or apply rot13 to header email address.

Response:

Guyz-N-Flyz No, but I figure the *real* difference is about a year. Not *only* that, but also 100CAD. But I’d still be interested to find out. — Jarmo Hurri

Try to PING Uncle Wally at ezflyfish.com.  I be he has a new pair in stock, and would know if the differences are worth the extra cost. Op

Response:

Guyz-N-Flyz Try to PING Uncle Wally at ezflyfish.com.  I be he has a Guyz-N-Flyz new pair in stock, and would know if the differences are Guyz-N-Flyz worth the extra cost. Heck, he’s got it *all* http://www.ezflyfish.com/simmsg3waders.html — Jarmo Hurri address or apply rot13 to header email address.

Response:

No, but I figure the *real* difference is about a year. Op  –seriously–

And a lot of dollars   /Roger

Response:

Hi everyone! I was planning on buying a pair of Simms guide weight waders when I’m visiting Canada next month. When I contacted a local shop about the waders, they told me that Simms had a new 2003 model of the guide weight waders coming out (the old model will be called ‘Classic Guide’ from now on). Has anyone seen the new model or heard of them? What are the differences?

hey Jarmo, I’ve seen and tried a pair on about a month ago when the Simms sales rep was in the shop. It has new features and is more breathable according to Simms. I’ve just yesterday loaded the image and Simms press release at my site: http://www.ezflyfish.com/simmsg3waders.html I haven’t field tested a pair yet so I can’t give you any advise concerning it’s functionality etc. but the pair I wore around the store was very comfortable and seemed to be built very well. Tight Lines, –Walt Fly Fishing NC & more… http://www.ezflyfish.com http://www.wilsoncreekoutfitters.com

Response:

differences…. a few that I liked…. 1) Built in gravel guards. 2) the hand warmer will be ideal for holding bottled water or other beverages of choice…. easy access ;^) 3) the ass portion is more durable. i slide on my butt down boulders and hills quite a bit when i fish nc streams. i do this for safety because i’m not very stable walking downhill or downstream. 4) the knees are also more durable which is important here also…. low stealthy profile when fishing. 5) the little built-in chest pack will allow minimalist (no vest) fishing. — wally

Response:

Walt differences…. a few that I liked…. Walt 1) Built in gravel guards. Walt 3) the ass portion is more durable. i slide on my butt down Walt    boulders and hills quite a bit when i fish nc streams. i do Walt    this for safety because i’m not very stable walking downhill Walt    or downstream. Walt 4) the knees are also more durable which is important here Walt    also…. low Walt    stealthy profile when fishing. I think these three are pretty important. But… a bit of bad luck. I’m coming over there in December, and the product will be available in January. Sigh… — Jarmo Hurri address or apply rot13 to header email address.

Response:

And a lot of dollars  

Indian Joe replies–and for the big dollars they did not include a zippered fly for those us who had too much beer last night or too much coffee this morning. or a back supporting belt with a water bottle holder. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

Sound to me like Uncle Wally has some Jarmo. He could proberly hook you up with a set.                    Handyman Mike           Standing in a river waving a stick

Response:

Sound to me like Uncle Wally has some Jarmo. He could proberly hook you up with a set.                    Handyman Mike         Standing in a river waving a stick

nahhh Mike, I won’t be receiving any until they ship them in January to all the dealers. I think I have 15 or so pair due in. –wally

Response:

Greg  The consolation is that you can then get next year’s model: it Greg  will come with headlights, two cup holders, and a reverse Greg  hydration system. I don’t think that reinforced parts in the posterior area and knees qualify in the same class as cup holders. It’s not an imagined need. On the other hand, I do admit that I don’t know how strong these reinforced parts are when compared with the ‘classic’ ones. — Jarmo Hurri address or apply rot13 to header email address.

Response:

I think these three are pretty important. But… a bit of bad luck. I’m coming over there in December, and the product will be available in January. Sigh… – The consolation is that you can then get next year’s model: it will come with headlights, two cup holders, and a reverse hydration system.

And tail fins!

Response:

Hi everyone! I was planning on buying a pair of Simms guide weight waders when I’m visiting Canada next month. When I contacted a local shop about the waders, they told me that Simms had a new 2003 model of the guide weight waders coming out (the old model will be called ‘Classic Guide’ from now on). Has anyone seen the new model or heard of them? What are the differences? — Jarmo Hurri address or apply rot13 to header email address.

Response:

Question:

Try the new Magellan 320 Fisherman. It is handheld, and has all the buoys, lights, and fixed navaids. It is great for a small boat that stays near the coast, and is very reasonable in price. I fish a lot, and use it as a back up on my big boat and just use it alone on my 16 foot and 14 foot boats. — Red Rider (J-V-B Triangle) We Shoot For Accuracy "I may have a bad memory, but I have over 39 years of diaries, log books and notes". If it doesn’t work I’ll apply more force. Of course I support "Freedom of Speech". I also support my right not to pay attention to fools.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am interested in getting a GPS.  I fly fish the coastal waters around Cape Cod from a small boat.  There a many different models available.  I would be interested in suggestions about how to think about this and any specific recommendations people have. Thank you

Response:

I like my Garmin "Map" hand held. its totally waterproof, has charts,its the newest gagjit from Garmin. i can only go up to color now but there $1300 bucks too my unit was $309 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am interested in getting a GPS.  I fly fish the coastal waters around Cape Cod from a small boat.  There a many different models available.  I would be interested in suggestions about how to think about this and any specific recommendations people have. Thank you

Response:

I am interested in getting a GPS.  I fly fish the coastal waters around Cape Cod from a small boat.  There a many different models available.  I would be interested in suggestions about how to think about this and any specific recommendations people have. Thank you

Response:

I am interested in getting a GPS.  I fly fish the coastal waters around Cape Cod from a small boat.  There a many different models available.  I would be interested in suggestions about how to think about this and any specific recommendations people have.

Garmin works for me I currently have the Garmin GPSMAP 230. I have had 2 other Garmins previously. The map chips are great cannot get lost as long as system is operational. 118 days to go..

Response:

Question:

An associate and I are looking for information, books, history, plans, etc. on a wooden, flat bottom, skiff-like drift boat, used for fly fishing.  This craft is used extensively on the Manistee, and AuSable rivers of Michigan. It’s been called the AuSable riverboat.  Any leads would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance. Damian M. Taulbee On A Fly, L.L.C.

Response:

An associate and I are looking for information, books, history, plans, etc. on a wooden, flat bottom, skiff-like drift boat, used for fly fishing. This craft is used extensively on the Manistee, and AuSable rivers of Michigan. It’s been called the AuSable riverboat.  Any leads would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

livery. He has a guide working for him named Roger who builds a beautiful AuSable boat also. Wayne Knight Geneva IL                            

Response:

Question:

I have wrapped 5-6 fly rods duringh the last year. On  the first rod I applied color preserver that came with the( Seymo) 2-part epoxy set for the thread wraps. The result was not good – probably because I had nott managed to apply the color preserver evenly over the entire wraps. for my next rods I did not use any color preserver – just the epoxy and the result is much nicer. The color of the thread darkens somewhat, but I know it in advance and it is no problem at all. My thory is that color preserver may have been necessary for older types of wrapping  thread with properties different from those of modern  threads, but today it is superfluous for normal wrapping. Information/opinnions welcomed! Regards jJan Erik Frithjofsen

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have wrapped 5-6 fly rods duringh the last year. On  the first rod I applied color preserver that came with the( Seymo) 2-part epoxy set for the thread wraps. The result was not good – probably because I had nott managed to apply the color preserver evenly over the entire wraps. for my next rods I did not use any color preserver – just the epoxy and the result is much nicer. The color of the thread darkens somewhat, but I know it in advance and it is no problem at all. My thory is that color preserver may have been necessary for older types of wrapping  thread with properties different from those of modern  threads, but today it is superfluous for normal wrapping. Information/opinnions welcomed! Regards jJan Erik Frithjofsen

I have found the same thing—-I don’t use it. KNACK TEXAS

Response:

 Some threads need color preserver, if not used the color will change. Gudebrod has winding thread that is color fast.

Response:

<snip for my next rods I did not use any color preserver – just the epoxy and the result is much nicer. The color of the thread darkens somewhat, but I know it in advance and it is no problem at all. My thory is that color preserver may have been necessary for older types of wrapping  thread with properties different from those of modern  threads, but today it is superfluous for normal wrapping.

I never worry about the colour of my whippings, some of my rods have three or four different colours on em. Most important is to make them as dull as possible, if a rod is brightly finished matt brown paint will kill the reflections nicely.  I always feel uncomfortable using a rod which flashes when I cast, the only exception being the rods I use night fishing. A side effect of the dull paint jobs is that my tackle is less attractive to thieves Tight lines, —

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I have wrapped 5-6 fly rods duringh the last year. On  the first rod I applied color preserver that came with the( Seymo) 2-part epoxy set for the thread wraps. The result was not good – probably because I had nott managed to apply the color preserver evenly over the entire wraps. for my next rods I did not use any color preserver – just the epoxy and the result is much nicer. The color of the thread darkens somewhat, but I know it in advance and it is no problem at all. My thory is that color preserver may have been necessary for older types of wrapping  thread with properties different from those of modern  threads, but today it is superfluous for normal wrapping. Information/opinnions welcomed! Regards jJan Erik Frithjofsen

Hi Erik, If you are wrapping a rod with red, white and blue threads and it is not NCP(no color preserver) thread you will have a noticeable change in your colors if you do not use color preserver. Most fly rods today are wrapped with shades that match the color of the blanks more closely than that of the salt water conventional rods for example. Your finish will penetrate the thread better without color preserver. Threads usually darken and appear more translucent without color preserver. I would say that Jan/Feb is the peak of the rod building season in North American.   Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Response:

Frithjofsen) writes:  *SNIP*

My thory is that color preserver may have been necessary for older types of wrapping  thread with properties different from those of

modern  threads, but today it is superfluous for normal wrapping.

Color preserver has never been necessary to the functionality or durability of the rod. It was (and is) a cosmetic feature.  It coats the wraps without changing their color, and then when you varnish or epoxy these wraps, the varnish or epoxy never touches the wraps to change their color, but coats and bonds the color preserver to the blank.  There has been an on-going controversy over whether or not this is as durable as using varnish or epoxy without color preserver.  Without color preserver the varnish/epoxy penetrates the thread and bonds it directly to the blank.  With color preserver it coats the preserver but does not penetrate the thread. Varnish/epoxy without color preserver usually darkens the color of the wrap. At the Orvis store in SF we used to have a section of a blank wrapped with all the colors we sold and varnished with 4 coats of Gudebrod’s Glass Rod Varnish (Polyurethane based varnish) which gave the same finish as that on the Orvis premium rods.  All of the colors (Gudebrod thread) were darkened, some more than others.  Bright red became dark red, light brown turned a dark milk-chocolate in color.  2 coats of epoxy would be comparable (although much higher build) and is the industry standard.  Was handy to show people what the final color would look like.  Don’t know if it’s still around since the rod building supplies are no longer carried in the Orvis SF store and I am no longer there.   They can still be ordered, but little if any are in stock. The main reason color preservers became popular was for all the decorative wrapping done on conventional spin/baitcasting/boat rod equipment.                                    Good Fishing (and finishing),                                               Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have wrapped 5-6 fly rods duringh the last year. On  the first rod I applied color preserver that came with the( Seymo) 2-part epoxy set for the thread wraps. The result was not good – probably because I had nott managed to apply the color preserver evenly over the entire wraps. for my next rods I did not use any color preserver – just the epoxy and the result is much nicer. The color of the thread darkens somewhat, but I know it in advance and it is no problem at all. My thory is that color preserver may have been necessary for older types of wrapping  thread with properties different from those of modern  threads, but today it is superfluous for normal wrapping. Information/opinnions welcomed! Regards jJan Erik Frithjofsen

I continue to use color preserver for 2 reasons.  First,  I want predictability in the finished colors of my wraps. Second, I have had occasion to wear out and need to replace guides.  If you allow the epoxy to soak through the un-preserved threads, it is a holy bitch to get the blank cleaned up to replace the wrap.  Threads that have been treated with color preserver come right off and you can clean up the wrap area with a single edged razor blade pretty easily.   — Andrew Brunette

Response:

Question:

I purchased  9′ #6  4- piece rod early this summer and have loved it….however  it not a sage or an orvis…but at a  better price…

Response:

Check the reel seat. I purchased 2 rods for my grandsons a few years ago, and the reelseats failed in 6 months. the metal formed ring that holds the reel broke on both rods had to tape the reels on. While they don’t cost as much as a Sage, or Orvis, if you do a lot of flyfishing buy a rod that will give you years of service not 6 months. I have been flyfishing for 50+ years and have seen them all. Buy good blanks, build your own. Use snake guides, rather than single foot, as single foot bend, and snake guides don’t. Tight lines Art

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I purchased  9′ #6  4- piece rod early this summer and have loved it….however it not a sage or an orvis…but at a  better price…

Response:

Check the reel seat. I purchased 2 rods for my grandsons a few years ago, and the reelseats failed in 6 months. …While they don’t cost as much as a Sage, or Orvis, if you do a lot of flyfishing buy a rod that will give you years of service not 6 months.

You could have returned the rods to Bean for repair or refund;Bean has a 100% guarantee on everything.  So really a Bean rod should be able to give you years of service. You might also take the time (if you can) to visit the Bean store in Freeport, and check the workmanship on their different rods.  The $400+ rods are nicer than the $100 ones.  You get what you pay for, eh?  On the other hand, *all* their rods are guaranteed, no matter the price. BTW, I agree that the best value is in building your own. Russell Gelinas

Response:

Question:

I am trying to find out where a good place to go fly fishing in the

early spring is.  It has to be running water and shallow enough to wade in and hopefully not tooooo many people.  Any tips will be greatly appreciated. Uhh….within an [n] mile radius of where ?  

  Money, travel no object ? If money & travel are no object, go to New Zealand.  It will be late summer – early fall there.  Bring hoppers! CQ

Response:

I am trying to find out where a good place to go fly fishing in the early spring is.  It has to be running water and shallow enough to wade in and hopefully not tooooo many people.  Any tips will be greatly appreciated.

Northwest Nevada is normally very good in the eary spring  However this year is a big question mark after the floods.  If cold weater sets in and reduces the runoff, and the fish have not been washed away, rivers like the East Fork of the Walker fish real well    

Response:

I am trying to find out where a good place to go fly fishing in the early spring is.  It has to be running water and shallow enough to wade in and hopefully not tooooo many people.  Any tips will be greatly appreciated.

Response:

I am trying to find out where a good place to go fly fishing in the early spring is.  It has to be running water and shallow enough to wade in and hopefully not tooooo many people.  Any tips will be greatly appreciated.

Uhh….within an [n] mile radius of where ?   Money, travel no object ? TimW

Response:

I am trying to find out where a good place to go fly fishing in the early spring is.  It has to be running water and shallow enough to wade in and hopefully not tooooo many people.  Any tips will be greatly appreciated.

Hi Montana has some great early spring fishing. When I say early I’m talking about March and April before spring run off. The Bighorn is often very productive at this time and does not have the crowds you can expect during the summer. — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (97 materials catalog) http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html

Response:

Question:

An option to try is if you have some strike putty, make a new fly right on the spot. Just put the putty on a small nymph and see what happens. Good luck, Don Pisinski

Response:

An option to try is if you have some strike putty, make a new fly right on the spot. Just put the putty on a small nymph and see what happens.

Especially good if you have some "Dr. Juice Phish Pheromone Trout In Heat" flavored strike putty on hand. TimW (just typing that got me excited…)

Response:

Kinda makes me think I’m going to way too much trouble tying flies.   I was reading something a few weeks ago about a study done underwater in which some percent of "nymphs" were expelled by the fish because they were sticks, rocks, etc. Why not use a small popper instead of a strike indicator? John Nesselrode Shawnee, KS

Response:

As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  After a couple more "takes" I switched to a dry fly. Nothing.  I switched to an egg pattern in  a similar color. Nothing.  I put the indicator back on. WHaM!  What have others done in this situation?

Tony Route suggested tying up a small bomber pattern in the same colors as the strike indicator, and using that.  Bomber is a spun deer hair piece of work, nothing fancy.  I tied some up, but never used them yet.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m certain that I’m not the only one to have this happen: I was fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  After a couple more "takes" I switched to a dry fly. Nothing.  I switched to an egg pattern in  a similar color. Nothing.  I put the indicator back on. WHaM!  What have others done in this situation? Yes Pete, I’ve had it happen recently.  I was fishing a nymph on a local stocked stream in Central Massachusetts.  What was hitting mine was small brookies, not the quarry dujour, but trout none the less.  My indicator was yellow, so I switched over to a yellow dry fly.  I had a few hits, but the only yellow fly I had was too big for the 4" brookie’s mouth is only so big.  

Try using strike indicator putty.  Then if they start hitting your strike indicator, you can cover the nymph with the strike putty and away you go Carl carl

Response:

Why not use a small popper instead of a strike indicator? Or a 12 bore shotgun.  Such idiotic fish need eliminating before they

stagnate the gene pool. Bruce

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m certain that I’m not the only one to have this happen: I was fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  <snip Pete It happens alot, especially on stocked streams and in ponds where fish are used to getting fed. However, I have also seen it on wild trout streams. The bobbing action of cork or foam on the surface can sometimes be a deadly attractor. In fact, there are some "flies" that are made from cork alone (no other dressing!) … they work, even on sophisticated wild trout. Why? I wish I knew. Bob Elliott (snip)

Hi, I have seen wild rainbows take some pretty large and gaudy strike indicators on spawning runs. It’s also quite common practice here to fish for browns with a dry fly as an indicator above a nymph. It’s sometimes an even bet as to which one gets taken by the fish. Ken Sims New Zealand

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m certain that I’m not the only one to have this happen: I was fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  After a couple more "takes" I switched to a dry fly. Nothing.  I switched to an egg pattern in  a similar color. Nothing.  I put the indicator back on. WHaM!  What have others done in this situation? I’ve had tis happen also, and here are my guesses at what is happening. Everyone tells me that drag, and it could be micro drag that you can’t see, accounts for most refusals of dry flies. When you have a sunken nymph below a strike indicator, the line and nymph act like an anchor in the water column, making the strike indicator drift absolutely drag free. The fish go for it. You see that, and tie on a dry fly, with no anchoring nymph and line, so you get micro drag, and the fish don’t strike. Try using a largish dry fly as a strike indicator. Something bushy like a stimulator or large Elk Hair Caddis. Darryl Hayashida

Or a parachute adams with a pink post.  Works great for me Regards, Dick Hubbard

Response:

drag, and the fish don’t strike. Try using a largish dry fly as a strike indicator. Something bushy like a stimulator or large Elk Hair Caddis. Darryl Hayashida Or a parachute adams with a pink post.  Works great for me Regards, Dick Hubbard

Or just thread a hook thru the strike indicator. Not "pure", but effective. Jerry — Jerry Brown Web: http://rampages.onramp.net/~jbrown "When the Huns are at the gate, they ain’t gonna knock…"

Response:

I sometimes have success with a fly called the Serendipity.  It’s   midge pattern with a red or orange thorax.  I like to use Peacock herl for the body with fine silver or copper wire rib.  Drift it in the film or just under the surface. Your milage may vary. Burton – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  After a

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m certain that I’m not the only one to have this happen: I was fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  After a couple more "takes" I switched to a dry fly. Nothing.  I switched to an egg pattern in  a similar color. Nothing.  I put the indicator back on. WHaM!  What have others done in this situation? Pete It happens alot, especially on stocked streams and in ponds where fish are used to getting fed. However, I have also seen it on wild trout streams. The bobbing action of cork or foam on the surface can sometimes be a deadly attractor. In fact, there are some "flies" that are made from cork alone (no other dressing!) … they work, even on sophisticated wild trout. Why? I wish I knew. Bob Elliott

Instead of strike indicators, I use those braided (Chinese finger vice) line connector devices.  Fishing flats recently on Florida’s Nature Coast, I had redfish hit the connector, It is chartreuse.  I can see it, so I guess fish can too.  It must look like a worm of some type to fish. — Don Jordan POB 2357 Chiefland, FL 32644 http://ripserv.com/indyjones

Response:

I am not one to use strike indicators, largely because it reminds me too much of fishing for catfish as a child. However, I may suggest that you use a floating line and a sinking leader (or leader to which you have applied some sinkant). A combination of sinkant on one and of the line and a clean, floatant-treated line on the other end has worked for me in situations where others might have used strike indicators. Of course, I am also prone to overuse of shims when building, so my solutions are not always the most sound… W.E.S. Harman Virginia Commonwealth University Richmond, Virginia "L’ecrivain original n’est pas celui qui n’imite personne, mais celui que personne ne peut imiter." (The original writer is not he who refrains from imitating others, but he who can be imitated by none.) – Francois-Rene De Chateaubriand,   "Genie du Christianisme" – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m certain that I’m not the only one to have this happen: I was fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  After a couple more "takes" I switched to a dry fly. Nothing.  I switched to an egg pattern in  a similar color. Nothing.  I put the indicator back on. WHaM!  What have others done in this situation? Pete It happens alot, especially on stocked streams and in ponds where fish are used to getting fed. However, I have also seen it on wild trout streams. The bobbing action of cork or foam on the surface can sometimes be a deadly attractor. In fact, there are some "flies" that are made from cork alone (no other dressing!) … they work, even on sophisticated wild trout. Why? I wish I knew. Bob Elliott Instead of strike indicators, I use those braided (Chinese finger vice) line connector devices.  Fishing flats recently on Florida’s Nature Coast, I had redfish hit the connector, It is chartreuse.  I can see it, so I guess fish can too.  It must look like a worm of some type to fish. — Don Jordan POB 2357 Chiefland, FL 32644 http://ripserv.com/indyjones

Response:

I’m certain that I’m not the only one to have this happen: I was fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  After a couple more "takes" I switched to a dry fly. Nothing.  I switched to an egg pattern in  a similar color. Nothing.  I put the indicator back on. WHaM!  What have others done in this situation? Pete

Yes Pete, I’ve had it happen recently.  I was fishing a nymph on a local stocked stream in Central Massachusetts.  What was hitting mine was small brookies, not the quarry dujour, but trout none the less.  My indicator was yellow, so I switched over to a yellow dry fly.  I had a few hits, but the only yellow fly I had was too big for the 4" brookie’s mouth is only so big.   Maybe the indicators look like the pellets from the hatchery (although I doubt they stocked 4" fish). Isn’t it annoying?   Tight lines, Mark Cahill

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m certain that I’m not the only one to have this happen: I was fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  After a couple more "takes" I switched to a dry fly. Nothing.  I switched to an egg pattern in  a similar color. Nothing.  I put the indicator back on. WHaM!  What have others done in this situation SNIPPED TO FIT: Isn’t it annoying? Tight lines, Mark Cahil I’ve also had ‘em go ater the knots in my leader when fishing drys in preference to the piece of work I was offering at the end of my tippet. (Usually a hint to go down to something a lot smaller.) zeno

I could jump into this discussion but think I best not as my views are miles apart  here.  However, I agree with ‘the hint,’ zeno. George Gehrke Mr. Gink

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I’m certain that I’m not the only one to have this happen: I was fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  After a couple more "takes" I switched to a dry fly. Nothing.  I switched to an egg pattern in  a similar color. Nothing.  I put the indicator back on. WHaM!  What have others done in this situation?

I’ve had tis happen also, and here are my guesses at what is happening. Everyone tells me that drag, and it could be micro drag that you can’t see, accounts for most refusals of dry flies. When you have a sunken nymph below a strike indicator, the line and nymph act like an anchor in the water column, making the strike indicator drift absolutely drag free. The fish go for it. You see that, and tie on a dry fly, with no anchoring nymph and line, so you get micro drag, and the fish don’t strike. Try using a largish dry fly as a strike indicator. Something bushy like a stimulator or large Elk Hair Caddis. Darryl Hayashida

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Completely understand.  The notorious Indicator Hatch.   The recommended approach is to go home and tie up some strike indicator imitations and fish them on a dead drift.

I did this, and I’ll be goddamned if it didn’t work! After having a few "selective trout" break out of their feeding patterns to chase my styrofoam orange strike indicator, I went home to the vice, clamped in a number ten hook and wrapped an adhesive backed strike indicator around it. I probably could of stopped right there but, purist that I am, I wrapped a grizzly hackle around the head and tied it off. Vince Marinaro was probably convulsing in his grave as I trotted back to my (then) home water, leering like the Grinch on his sleighride to Whoville. Needless to say, it worked. Not on every fish (thank god) but it worked. It’s all in the orange. Next time you’re tying an Adams, substitute an orange floss body for the usual muskrat. You didn’t hear it from me. Spinolio

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I’m certain that I’m not the only one to have this happen: I was fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  <snip Pete It happens alot, especially on stocked streams and in ponds where fish are used to getting fed. However, I have also seen it on wild trout streams. The bobbing action of cork or foam on the surface can sometimes be a deadly attractor. In fact, there are some "flies" that are made from cork alone (no other dressing!) … they work, even on sophisticated wild trout. Why? I wish I knew. Bob Elliott

In North Georgia most streams are stocked and trophy streams are fed. Although I have had the same experience on streams with natural production which are not fed and the 6" to 10" fish likely are generations away from any fish that was. One particular stream was exclusively browns. I attribute it to the fact that trout are opportunists, curious about there surroundings and lacking hands, they put it in their mouth to find out what it is. Could be a meal and they may be few and far between. When I first began fishing I took a few fish for consumption. One such fish upon examining the stomach contents was full of some type of hard green seeds that had been floating downstream. Not only did the fish not find it offnesive, it continued to gulp the seeds which were also further along in the intestine in much the same condition as those in the stomach. I suppose the fish ‘felt’ full whether it was nutritious or not. The past weekend I was fishing worm imitation, floating it along the bottom in a clear tail out and watched a fish ‘take’ it, or so I thought. I missed, but as the the leaves are falling here, the fish grabbed a leaf and held it in its mouth a little longer than you would expect before realizing what it had. Almost as much fun to observe as to catch! regards, Joe Webb Atlanta Mac User Group (AMUG)

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I’m certain that I’m not the only one to have this happen: I was fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  After a couple more "takes" I switched to a dry fly. Nothing.  I switched to an egg pattern in  a similar color. Nothing.  I put the indicator back on. WHaM!  What have others done in this situation? Pete

It happens alot, especially on stocked streams and in ponds where fish are used to getting fed. However, I have also seen it on wild trout streams. The bobbing action of cork or foam on the surface can sometimes be a deadly attractor. In fact, there are some "flies" that are made from cork alone (no other dressing!) … they work, even on sophisticated wild trout. Why? I wish I knew. Bob Elliott

Response:

I’m certain that I’m not the only one to have this happen: I was fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  After a couple more "takes" I switched to a dry fly. Nothing.  I switched to an egg pattern in  a similar color. Nothing.  I put the indicator back on. WHaM!  What have others done in this situation? Pete

Put a hook on it!

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m certain that I’m not the only one to have this happen: I was fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  After a couple more "takes" I switched to a dry fly. Nothing.  I switched to an egg pattern in  a similar color. Nothing.  I put the indicator back on. WHaM!  What have others done in this situation? Pete Yes Pete, I’ve had it happen recently.  I was fishing a nymph on a local stocked stream in Central Massachusetts.  What was hitting mine was small brookies, not the quarry dujour, but trout none the less.  My indicator was yellow, so I switched over to a yellow dry fly.  I had a few hits, but the only yellow fly I had was too big for the 4" brookie’s mouth is only so big. Maybe the indicators look like the pellets from the hatchery (although I doubt they stocked 4" fish). Isn’t it annoying? Tight lines, Mark Cahil I’ve also had ‘em go ater the knots in my leader when fishing drys in preference to the piece of work I was offering at the end of my tippet. (Usually a hint to go down to something a lot smaller.) zeno

I have had it happen with a yellow strike indicator during hopper season.  Switch to a hopper usually works then. YMMV. Dan — Daniel J. Gaspar                        Department of Chemistry (773) 702-7209                          University of Chicago

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I’m certain that I’m not the only one to have this happen: I was fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  After a couple more "takes" I switched to a dry fly. Nothing.  I switched to an egg pattern in  a similar color. Nothing.  I put the indicator back on. WHaM!  What have others done in this situation?

   I don’t know the entomology of this, but it is common experience. I always carry an orange humpy or two for this situation. They even make pretty good strike indicators. Joel A. Tobias 2941 Doctors Park Dr. Medford, OR 97504

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m certain that I’m not the only one to have this happen: I was fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  After a couple more "takes" I switched to a dry fly. Nothing.  I switched to an egg pattern in  a similar color. Nothing.  I put the indicator back on. WHaM!  What have others done in this situation? Pete Yes Pete, I’ve had it happen recently.  I was fishing a nymph on a local stocked stream in Central Massachusetts.  What was hitting mine was small brookies, not the quarry dujour, but trout none the less.  My indicator was yellow, so I switched over to a yellow dry fly.  I had a few hits, but the only yellow fly I had was too big for the 4" brookie’s mouth is only so big. Maybe the indicators look like the pellets from the hatchery (although I doubt they stocked 4" fish). Isn’t it annoying? Tight lines, Mark Cahil

I’ve also had ‘em go ater the knots in my leader when fishing drys in preference to the piece of work I was offering at the end of my tippet. (Usually a hint to go down to something a lot smaller.) zeno

Response:

I’m certain that I’m not the only one to have this happen: I was fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  After a couple more "takes" I switched to a dry fly. Nothing.  I switched to an egg pattern in  a similar color. Nothing.  I put the indicator back on. WHaM!  What have others done in this situation? Pete

In line with Tim’s comment I often use an orange Bug (deer hair clipped sinker shaped with a hackle wound through) as an indicator, and it has landed fish. Paul

Response:

I’m certain that I’m not the only one to have this happen: I was fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  After a couple more "takes" I switched to a dry fly. Nothing.  I switched to an egg pattern in  a similar color. Nothing.  I put the indicator back on. WHaM!  What have others done in this situation?

Completely understand.  The notorious Indicator Hatch.   The recommended approach is to go home and tie up some strike indicator imitations and fish them on a dead drift. TimW

Response:

I’m certain that I’m not the only one to have this happen: I was fishing a nymph on a floating line with a small orange strike indicator.  As I drifted the flies through a likely looking spot, a nice trout came up and hammered the cork indicator.  After a couple more "takes" I switched to a dry fly. Nothing.  I switched to an egg pattern in  a similar color. Nothing.  I put the indicator back on. WHaM!  What have others done in this situation? Pete

Response:

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -ubject:        Re: How do you spline a 4 piece rod? Huskers writes: I have never built a 4 piece rod before.  How do you spline it? Each Piece individually, two 2-piece sections or what?  The blanks in the mail so… Help! Well, consider that you cast the entire rod, not the individual sections.  Spine the entire blank, all put together. Very bad advice. You can end up with a very odd handling rod. The tip section spline and mid-section splines should be determined and the butt section, if possible, also. Buy a book on custom rod building to learn the complete procedure for splining. Del Clemens, L.A. Garcia or Skip Morris all have written good rod building books. The general method is to bend a section against a table and rotate the section at the same time. There should be two bumps or jumps during the rotation, the larger jump locates the spline. A short butt section spline might be hard to detect. Mark each section’s spline position for use during guide placement. A fly rod  built with the guides located 180 degrees from the spline. Each section’s spline will line up with the other splines when you assemble the completed rod. Don Burns IHMO, use at your own risk, etc.    

I usually locate the spline on each section of a 4 pc., then assemble it into 2 pcs and re-check. Haven’t had one move yet…

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A new web site has info on how to spline a rod. URL:       http://fishdoc.com/ Also has guide spacing for rods, looks like Sage guide spacing. Don Burns P.S. For those of you who keep asking me about why "Spin4trout", AOL for some reason doesn’t allow screen-names to start with the word "FLY". G.O.K!!!  Tried "trout"+xxx – no luck. Didn’t like troutxyz, trout069 or troutvjfvfj and other unused names. After 30 minutes of trying to get a name somehow related to flyfishing I gave up. Since I’ve used my spinning gear with my dad, fishing for lake trout since the 1960’s, I came up with "spin4trout".  Sorry guys. Now if I could find a cheap Ross C-1 or Lamson 1.0,  I might be willing to turn in my spinning rods. <G

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 I agree with the splining advise but would add one thing.  I use a weight on a piece of monofillement with a loop on the end. This I pass over the thin end of the rod piece very loosely. Then turn the section on a table as mentioned before. You can watch the weight dip. Use different size weights for each section. On the 3 weight I I built I use about 1 oz for the tip section, but about 2 lbs for the butt section.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -ubject:     Re: How do you spline a 4 piece rod? Huskers writes: I have never built a 4 piece rod before.  How do you spline it? Each Piece individually, two 2-piece sections or what?  The blanks in the mail so… Help! Well, consider that you cast the entire rod, not the individual sections.  Spine the entire blank, all put together.

Very bad advice. You can end up with a very odd handling rod. The tip section spline and mid-section splines should be determined and the butt section, if possible, also. Buy a book on custom rod building to learn the complete procedure for splining. Del Clemens, L.A. Garcia or Skip Morris all have written good rod building books. The general method is to bend a section against a table and rotate the section at the same time. There should be two bumps or jumps during the rotation, the larger jump locates the spline. A short butt section spline might be hard to detect. Mark each section’s spline position for use during guide placement. A fly rod  built with the guides located 180 degrees from the spline. Each section’s spline will line up with the other splines when you assemble the completed rod. Don Burns IHMO, use at your own risk, etc.    

Response:

Question:

Steve, There is the San Mateo Sportsman’s show that used to be held in March and will be held in Jan or Feb. this coming year (96).  This is a consumer show with all the big guns represented whereas the Fly Tackle Dealer Show is a dealer show not a consumer show.  If you like fly fishing, and live in the Bay Area, don’t miss it.                                                    Dan Dan Gracia Schools Coordinator Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

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I’ll be attending the The Fly Tackle Dealers’ Show in Denver next month. Anyone wishing information on new products (particularly rod blanks and components) exhibited at the show, feel free to post e-mail. I’ll be returning on approx. Sept. 25 and I’ll have a chance to respond at that time. You can also receive a free copy of our current catalogue with custom rods, blanks, componments, fly tying material and accessories by sending your name and snail mail address via e-mail. Phil Koenig Manhattan Custom Tackle    

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Question:

I’m looking for somewhere in Santa Cruz and surrounding areas to throw a dry-fly.  Does anyone know of some place like that … Also, what about catfishing in the local sloughs? Thanks Kim — With a Double Espresso and a British Motorcycle …  |               |_      —-/   / /___   /  |       DoD#    /        –/—       / /—|       800880  /__/       /___/ _____/ /    |

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I’m looking for somewhere in Santa Cruz and surrounding areas to throw a dry-fly.  Does anyone know of some place like that …

You could throw a dry fly in the ocean but you’re not likely to catch anything.  The best place I can think of offhand would be Loch Lomand Reservoir in Felton. If you get there really early in the morning you might pick up a trout or two.  A few years ago I was catching tons on bluegill on wet flies casting from a canoe.  There’s some nice largemouths in the coves as well.  You’d have to wait till next season but you can pick up some steelhead in the San Lorenzo river and Scott creek, north of Davenport. I can’t really think of any good streams in the vicinity that would provide dry fly fishing.  No legal ones anyway. Your best bet is to head to the Sierra. Also, what about catfishing in the local sloughs?

I know a 19lb. catfish was caught out of Loch Lomand as well a couple of years ago.  I don’t know of any sloughs in the Santa Cruz area but the Delta is full of them. John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Thanks Kim — With a Double Espresso and a British Motorcycle … |               |_      —-/   / /___   /  |       DoD#    /        –/—       / /—|     800880  /__/       /___/ _____/ /    |

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