Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Flyfishing » Anyone been to Danbury CT Flyfishing U?
Do we have any early reviews of the Flyfishing University show in Danbury today, tomorrow and Sunday (1/4, 5, 6)? Their web site hasn’t ever been completed regarding exhibitors…just the fly tying & fishing classes. I was planning on going…but it’s a bit of a drive. Peter Simonson
Peter: This show was so well advertised that I never heard of it and I live only 40 miles away!
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » American Shad Flies
"Bass Boss" wrote… Stop for a few seconds to light a cigarette or something, with my fly or a lure just dangling in the water right beside me and the fish (smallmouth bass) will swim right up and take the fly or lure.
Shhh! That’s a fishn’ secret! I’ve noticed that all kinds of crap goes floating down the stream, some of it, such as puffy seeds, looks a lot like my fly. Some insects, like water striders, get totally ignored. Your fly has to stand out as something the fish really does want to eat. When your fly is hanging motionless in a moving stream, it is already standing out as something different. Impart a little twitch and that could do it. I’ve caught many fish after making a really bad cast, and just pulling the line in to give it another shot. Whack! It’s a somewhat guilty pleasure, as at that point I was only trying to get some line in to make a better cast. Timothy Juvenal
Heh…I remember the first smally I caught right here by my home in the Kishwaukee river…I had my first fly rod and was trying to cast..with no instruction, what a mess. I had this big clump of line all tangled about me with the end of the line like 20 feet away; I was doing my best to untangle myself..I finally got the mess figured out and low and behold there was a little smally at the end. By no means the biggest..heck..coulde of been the smallest, but no matter what; he was the most memorable. My first fish on a fly rod. Hell, a few months later I finally even figured out how to cast! Tim Apple
This is what Ragnar up at Great Slave Lake refers to as a "Big Fish Maneuver". Lighting a cigarette, digging out a sandwich, but the real killer is setting the rod down and pissing over the side of the boat. A sure fire technique for getting a strike on a slow day. Chas – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – That is something that never ceases to amaze me. I could cast to fish all day long and not get a bite. Stop for a few seconds to light a cigarette or something, with my fly or a lure just dangling in the water right beside me and the fish (smallmouth bass) will swim right up and take the fly or lure.And I mean I’ve actually had fish swim right up between my legs to take a fly. Trying to imitate that out where one would cast to is pretty hard. With the current flowing, how can one stop a fly in the river, just pause it for a few seconds, so the fish will take it? To be able to put a fly in their face and keep it there just long enough to make them eat it. If it goes on by, they won’t touch it. But to hang for a few seconds… Iv’e actually had fish take a fly that got snagged on a rock. They’ll just swim right up and pick it off the rock. But to cast to these fish and let the fly drift… They don’t want it. Amazing sometimes…
Hi Jamie and Group I often fish Shad on the same pool as Jamie. The Lahave is a Salmon River so you must use unweighted flies and get them down. Makes for interesting fishing. One evening in June I was standing in the river, water to my knees fishing shad when a dragon fly light on my waders. About 12 – 15 in above water level. I was admiring its colors when the water brobe and a nice Bass jumped up and grabby it riight there. Talk about needing to go ashore to tie on flies. It hit me quite hard but susprise was the biggest thing. See you all in June at the Shad Hole Paul – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – That is something that never ceases to amaze me. I could cast to fish all day long and not get a bite. Stop for a few seconds to light a cigarette or something, with my fly or a lure just dangling in the water right beside me and the fish (smallmouth bass) will swim right up and take the fly or lure.And I mean I’ve actually had fish swim right up between my legs to take a fly. Trying to imitate that out where one would cast to is pretty hard. With the current flowing, how can one stop a fly in the river, just pause it for a few seconds, so the fish will take it? To be able to put a fly in their face and keep it there just long enough to make them eat it. If it goes on by, they won’t touch it. But to hang for a few seconds… Iv’e actually had fish take a fly that got snagged on a rock. They’ll just swim right up and pick it off the rock. But to cast to these fish and let the fly drift… They don’t want it. Amazing sometimes… < < < < < < < < < < < < < < < < < Joe, Thanks for the info on the flies. If you could please take a picture of the fly you described I would be very grateful. I fish my flies on a floating line. I cast directly across the current and let it swing down, watching closely for any "slow downs". Once the line is fully extended downstream I raise the road about 3 feet then slowly drop it in a continuous rhythm. Very similar to jigging with spinning gear and a heavy spoon. I stop pulsing the rod to take up line about every 6 feet. Actually, I’ve caught many just holding my leader and dangling the flies to fish holding in front of me. They have no fear of a man standing relatively still in the river. This is a great way to see what they prefer. Thanks Joe. Get me that picture! — Regards, Jamie 8^) http://users.andara.com/~jbheim I’m trying to put together a gallery of these flies. If any of you have any flies that you have used successfully let me know please. I’m looking for originals as well as standards. I have a few at my site now if any one would like to have a look. Here (MD) there’s been one "magic bullet" fly for hickory shad year after year, & I’ll try to remember to take a pic for you. (Simple tie: #8 hook, tinsel body, red & yellow marabou wing, red thread head) Oddly enough, last spring during the run, I couldn’t catch shit on it. The guy upstream from me was killin’ ‘em on a little green number, about size 10, similar to the bead head dart on your page. Interestingly, the Eel River flies look ver similar, if not identical, to the Lazer Egg (http://www.angelfire.com/wa/salmonid/fly48.html) steelhead fly. Out of curiosity, how do you fish yours? Sinking line? Sink tip? Dead drift? Swing? Joe F. already thinking ahead to April
See you there Paul. Your story reminds me of a few times I’ve seen smallies jump on shore after dragonflies. The smaller ones are so aggressive they are almost suicidal. — Regards, Jamie 8^) http://users.andara.com/~jbheim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Jamie and Group I often fish Shad on the same pool as Jamie. The Lahave is a Salmon River so you must use unweighted flies and get them down. Makes for interesting fishing. One evening in June I was standing in the river, water to my knees fishing shad when a dragon fly light on my waders. About 12 – 15 in above water level. I was admiring its colors when the water brobe and a nice Bass jumped up and grabby it riight there. Talk about needing to go ashore to tie on flies. It hit me quite hard but susprise was the biggest thing. See you all in June at the Shad Hole Paul That is something that never ceases to amaze me. I could cast to fish all day long and not get a bite. Stop for a few seconds to light a cigarette or something, with my fly or a lure just dangling in the water right beside me and the fish (smallmouth bass) will swim right up and take the fly or lure.And I mean I’ve actually had fish swim right up between my legs to take a fly. Trying to imitate that out where one would cast to is pretty hard. With the current flowing, how can one stop a fly in the river, just pause it for a few seconds, so the fish will take it? To be able to put a fly in their face and keep it there just long enough to make them eat it. If it goes on by, they won’t touch it. But to hang for a few seconds… Iv’e actually had fish take a fly that got snagged on a rock. They’ll just swim right up and pick it off the rock. But to cast to these fish and let the fly drift… They don’t want it. Amazing sometimes… < < < < < < < < < < < < < < < < < Joe, Thanks for the info on the flies. If you could please take a picture of the fly you described I would be very grateful. I fish my flies on a floating line. I cast directly across the current and let it swing down, watching closely for any "slow downs". Once the line is fully extended downstream I raise the road about 3 feet then slowly drop it in a continuous rhythm. Very similar to jigging with spinning gear and a heavy spoon. I stop pulsing the rod to take up line about every 6 feet. Actually, I’ve caught many just holding my leader and dangling the flies to fish holding in front of me. They have no fear of a man standing relatively still in the river. This is a great way to see what they prefer. Thanks Joe. Get me that picture! — Regards, Jamie 8^) http://users.andara.com/~jbheim I’m trying to put together a gallery of these flies. If any of you have any flies that you have used successfully let me know please. I’m looking for originals as well as standards. I have a few at my site now if any one would like to have a look. Here (MD) there’s been one "magic bullet" fly for hickory shad year after year, & I’ll try to remember to take a pic for you. (Simple tie: #8 hook, tinsel body, red & yellow marabou wing, red thread head) Oddly enough, last spring during the run, I couldn’t catch shit on it. The guy upstream from me was killin’ ‘em on a little green number, about size 10, similar to the bead head dart on your page. Interestingly, the Eel River flies look ver similar, if not identical, to the Lazer Egg (http://www.angelfire.com/wa/salmonid/fly48.html) steelhead fly. Out of curiosity, how do you fish yours? Sinking line? Sink tip? Dead drift? Swing? Joe F. already thinking ahead to April
That is something that never ceases to amaze me. I could cast to fish all day long and not get a bite. Stop for a few seconds to light a cigarette or something, with my fly or a lure just dangling in the water right beside me and the fish (smallmouth bass) will swim right up and take the fly or lure.And I mean I’ve actually had fish swim right up between my legs to take a fly. Trying to imitate that out where one would cast to is pretty hard. With the current flowing, how can one stop a fly in the river, just pause it for a few seconds, so the fish will take it? To be able to put a fly in their face and keep it there just long enough to make them eat it. If it goes on by, they won’t touch it. But to hang for a few seconds… Iv’e actually had fish take a fly that got snagged on a rock. They’ll just swim right up and pick it off the rock. But to cast to these fish and let the fly drift… They don’t want it. Amazing sometimes… < < < < < < < < < < < < < < < < <
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Joe, Thanks for the info on the flies. If you could please take a picture of the fly you described I would be very grateful. I fish my flies on a floating line. I cast directly across the current and let it swing down, watching closely for any "slow downs". Once the line is fully extended downstream I raise the road about 3 feet then slowly drop it in a continuous rhythm. Very similar to jigging with spinning gear and a heavy spoon. I stop pulsing the rod to take up line about every 6 feet. Actually, I’ve caught many just holding my leader and dangling the flies to fish holding in front of me. They have no fear of a man standing relatively still in the river. This is a great way to see what they prefer. Thanks Joe. Get me that picture! — Regards, Jamie 8^) http://users.andara.com/~jbheim I’m trying to put together a gallery of these flies. If any of you have any flies that you have used successfully let me know please. I’m looking for originals as well as standards. I have a few at my site now if any one would like to have a look. Here (MD) there’s been one "magic bullet" fly for hickory shad year after year, & I’ll try to remember to take a pic for you. (Simple tie: #8 hook, tinsel body, red & yellow marabou wing, red thread head) Oddly enough, last spring during the run, I couldn’t catch shit on it. The guy upstream from me was killin’ ‘em on a little green number, about size 10, similar to the bead head dart on your page. Interestingly, the Eel River flies look ver similar, if not identical, to the Lazer Egg (http://www.angelfire.com/wa/salmonid/fly48.html) steelhead fly. Out of curiosity, how do you fish yours? Sinking line? Sink tip? Dead drift? Swing? Joe F. already thinking ahead to April
I’m trying to put together a gallery of these flies. If any of you have any
flies that you have used successfully let me know please. I’m looking for originals as well as standards. I have a few at my site now if any one would like to have a look. Here (MD) there’s been one "magic bullet" fly for hickory shad year after year, & I’ll try to remember to take a pic for you. (Simple tie: #8 hook, tinsel body, red & yellow marabou wing, red thread head) Oddly enough, last spring during the run, I couldn’t catch shit on it. The guy upstream from me was killin’ ‘em on a little green number, about size 10, similar to the bead head dart on your page. Interestingly, the Eel River flies look ver similar, if not identical, to the Lazer Egg (http://www.angelfire.com/wa/salmonid/fly48.html) steelhead fly. Out of curiosity, how do you fish yours? Sinking line? Sink tip? Dead drift? Swing? Joe F. already thinking ahead to April
Joe, Thanks for the info on the flies. If you could please take a picture of the fly you described I would be very grateful. I fish my flies on a floating line. I cast directly across the current and let it swing down, watching closely for any "slow downs". Once the line is fully extended downstream I raise the road about 3 feet then slowly drop it in a continuous rhythm. Very similar to jigging with spinning gear and a heavy spoon. I stop pulsing the rod to take up line about every 6 feet. Actually, I’ve caught many just holding my leader and dangling the flies to fish holding in front of me. They have no fear of a man standing relatively still in the river. This is a great way to see what they prefer. Thanks Joe. Get me that picture! — Regards, Jamie 8^) http://users.andara.com/~jbheim
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m trying to put together a gallery of these flies. If any of you have any flies that you have used successfully let me know please. I’m looking for originals as well as standards. I have a few at my site now if any one would like to have a look. Here (MD) there’s been one "magic bullet" fly for hickory shad year after year, & I’ll try to remember to take a pic for you. (Simple tie: #8 hook, tinsel body, red & yellow marabou wing, red thread head) Oddly enough, last spring during the run, I couldn’t catch shit on it. The guy upstream from me was killin’ ‘em on a little green number, about size 10, similar to the bead head dart on your page. Interestingly, the Eel River flies look ver similar, if not identical, to the Lazer Egg (http://www.angelfire.com/wa/salmonid/fly48.html) steelhead fly. Out of curiosity, how do you fish yours? Sinking line? Sink tip? Dead drift? Swing? Joe F. already thinking ahead to April
Jamie, Just gotta say, thats a pretty smally on your page, you take the photo yourself? The color is great. Tim Apple
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Joe,
Thanks Tim, I can’t claim that pic however. I got that off the web a couple of years ago. It was on a site that just had pictures of differen’t fish. No caption or anything. I fell in love with it right away. — Regards, Jamie 8^) http://users.andara.com/~jbheim
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Jamie, Just gotta say, thats a pretty smally on your page, you take the photo yourself? The color is great. Tim Apple Joe,
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » what's the big problem?
Don’t tell me that all of us haven’t told the occaisional little fib about where the good fishing is from time to time to keep a good spot to ourselves, or at least keep the crowd down a little. Fisherman have had a reputation for being outrageous liars since man started using worms for bait and I know we haven’t come down out of that tree yet. I have told my share in the past and i can pretty much guarantee that I will continue to do so, especially as my favorite spots become more and more crowded. Sure, the mob scene on the tailwaters can be fun, the fish still outnumber the people on most of them, but a guy has to be alone in the mountains every once in a while. John Before you buy.
Actually although not specific, these are my close in favorites. As for fishermen lying, I’m sorry but I have no reason to lie. I actually fished a lake where the bass averaged over ten pounds(had to spool a zebco 404 with35lb test to hold them out from pilings. One bass I caught out of that lake had to have his tail bent to go in a freezer door after beheading. Unfortunately the state of Florida deemed it a dieing lake and drew it down. I caught Stump knockers out of it on the fly. I had to use a 5wt. they went 1 to 2 pounds. Right now the speck (crappy) minimum limit is 12" for Lake Monroe. If you choose not to believe it so be it. John Popp in Sanford Fl. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Don’t tell me that all of us haven’t told the occaisional little fib about where the good fishing is from time to time to keep a good spot to ourselves, or at least keep the crowd down a little. Fisherman have had a reputation for being outrageous liars since man started using worms for bait and I know we haven’t come down out of that tree yet. I have told my share in the past and i can pretty much guarantee that I will continue to do so, especially as my favorite spots become more and more crowded. Sure, the mob scene on the tailwaters can be fun, the fish still outnumber the people on most of them, but a guy has to be alone in the mountains every once in a while. John Before you buy.
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing Flies » Mexican Fly Fishing?
I am moving to the mexican interior for a year (Michoacan) and am looking for some suggestion for non-coastal fly fishing. I know the mountain sttreams hold some trout but I know no more. Thanks very much for any suggestions.
You might look around for some Cyclids. (I believe that spelling is right). Peacock Bass are member of this family. They behave like bluegills. The northernmost occurs in South Texas and is called the Rio Grande Perch. They will take flies and fight like hell. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I am moving to the mexican interior for a year (Michoacan) and am looking for some suggestion for non-coastal fly fishing. I know the mountain sttreams hold some trout but I know no more. Thanks very much for any suggestions.
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » HELP…I am temporarily in Indiana. Fishing?
Hi. I just moved to West Lafayette Indiana from Wyoming. I am here to finish my degree (Resort management) and will be here until June. Does anybody know of a place nearby where I can fly fish? I used to (well, 3 weeks ago) fish almost everyday and I desperately miss it. Thanks!! Shannon WYShan.aol.com
Just practice catch and release, and don’t eat the fish anyway. You are somewhat lucky in that you have a number of rivers and creeks up there that have some nice smallmouth fishing. You can float the Tippy or find some smaller streams for wading. Ask around, and check in at some bait shops. I don’t know of FFng clubs in the Purdue area, but there are further north. Also there is some good farm pond fishing for Largemouth and bluegill. As far as trout go, do as I do and go to Mich or out west. Kevin Williams
You ain’t that far from Missouri or Arkansas. A 3 day expedition to the Ozarks will help you get over your leaving Wyoming blues. I have fished both of these states pretty heavily in the last year (after moving here from Summit Co. Colorado) and have been smitten by the unspoiled beauty, the "pure strain McCloud Rainbows" (available nowhere else in the U.S.) and the relative lack of pressure in the Wild Trout management areas. If you would like some more information and/or would like to get together and see what there is in Missouri, feel free to e-mail me at: Tight Lines and Keep the Faith. Joe Sandone
HI SHANNON, YOU ARE NOT TOO FAR FROM SOME OF THE BEST FALL RUN GREAT LAKES FISHING IN THE MIDWEST. PROBALBLY ABOUT AN HOUR. IN THE TOWN OF PORTAGE IS THE LITTLE CALUMET RIVER AND SALT CREEK AND ABOUT A MONTH FROM NOW THE FISH WILL BEGIN TO MOVE IN. BRING YOUR 9WT. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER DETAILS.
Let me offer a few suggestions. Trail Creek (and Salt Creek and the Little Calumet River) in Michigan City, about 2 hours from West Lafayette, offers some good steelhead fishing pretty much year round. In the fall, chinooks, cohos, and browns are also available. Obviously, they’re all hatchery fish, so I never feel guilty about keeping one every now and then. I’ve taken steelhead up to 17 pounds, though bait fisherman get them over twenty pounds in the fall with some regularity. The chinooks may top 30 lbs. Careful, though, most of the southern shore of Lake Michigan and surrounding area reminds me of a toxic, industrial wasteland. Damn, it ain’t Wyoming. I gotta move. Let me also suggest the Pigeon River near Howe. It’s probably 3 hours from Lafayette. It’s a fairly pretty river with browns and rainbows, some of them pretty big, but all hatchery raised. Indiana has a problem getting its trout to reproduce in the wild. Anyway, for more info or suggestions, contact me. Bruce
Shannon – how far are you from South Bend? You can come up and fish for steelhead and salmon in the St. Joseph River right in Leper Park. Other spots in southwest Michigan too. email me for more info. Ann
: Hi. I just moved to West Lafayette Indiana from Wyoming. I am here to : finish my degree (Resort management) and will be here until June. Does : anybody know of a place nearby where I can fly fish? I used to (well, 3 : weeks ago) fish almost everyday and I desperately miss it. Thanks!! : Shannon : WYShan.aol.com Well, you are 30 (maybe less) miles from the Middle Fork Illinois State Fish and Game Reserve. It’s just north of Kick-a-poo state park and NW of Danville (Both Illinois) As a indiana resident, you’ll need a non-resident license, (i think it’s under $25 for a year or around $15 for 10 days) I think your 50+ miles from Lake Michigan, but you should be near Sugar Creek (which runs thru that section of indiana). You should call the Indiana DNR, they should have free information that they’ll mail you (I’m sure they have set-aside areas too) Chicago Area Paddling/Fishing Page: http://www.ripco.com/~jwn/
<snip : One warning: Get a copy of the regs and carefully read the consumption : advisories– there is *no* water in Indiana that is not under some level : of consumption advisory for toxins like heavy metals, pesticides, dioxin, : etc. On some waters you shouldn’t eat anything, on others it’s okay to : have 1-2 meals a week; pregnant women are advised not to eat any fish : caught here at all. I’ve got the full EPA data on these advisories and : think it’s actually worse than the state regs let on– I won’t eat any : fish caught in Indiana water. <snip On the Illinois DNR page, they have divided fish into 3 catagories, one that you can eat a few times a week, one that you can never eat, and my favorite catagory (group II) which shouldn’t be consumed by males under 16, females who ever anticipate giving birth, and there are a few other people who, depending on their health, can’t eat group II fish. (i just always liked the "ever anticpate" clause). Chicago Area Paddling/Fishing Page: http://www.ripco.com/~jwn/
You poor soul. I have pity on you. Wyoming to Indiana. That’s probably worse than what we did– Oregon/Idaho to Indiana. If you want to fish here it’ll be panfish, bass, and perhaps the hybrids they call "wipers." The best fishing is in farm ponds, though the large reserviors have produced a number of record bass and catfish. Down south (where I am) there are monster catfish in some of the old quarries (seen Breaking Away?). There are basically no salmonids at all though, with the exception of the Lake Michigan fishery and some stockers they put in a couple of creeks as sacrifices. It’s a whole ‘nuther ballgame out here, let me tell you. My steelhead gear and trout flies went into storage long ago, and only come out when I’m lucky enough to make it back West. One warning: Get a copy of the regs and carefully read the consumption advisories– there is *no* water in Indiana that is not under some level of consumption advisory for toxins like heavy metals, pesticides, dioxin, etc. On some waters you shouldn’t eat anything, on others it’s okay to have 1-2 meals a week; pregnant women are advised not to eat any fish caught here at all. I’ve got the full EPA data on these advisories and think it’s actually worse than the state regs let on– I won’t eat any fish caught in Indiana water. All that said, it’s good fun to learn to panfish, and I’ve found that bluegill or small bass on a #4 line can be a load of fun. You’ll want to check out Turkey Run State Park and the Willow Slough, Lasalle, Hillenbrand, Winamac, and Kanakee fish and wildlife areas up in your corner of the state. If you have time, drive up to Michigan for the real fishing; we did over Memmorial Day and it was well worth the 8 hour drive, if only to see running water that wasn’t brown. Good luck- — Derek R. Larson Indiana University Department of History "Eastward I go by force, but Westward I go free!" -H. D. Thoreau
Shannon, Depending on how close you are to Lake Michigan you are within a short drive of year-round steelhead fishing. Pick up a fly fishing mag and check the ads. I bet there is an outfitter close by.
Hi. I just moved to West Lafayette Indiana from Wyoming. I am here to finish my degree (Resort management) and will be here until June. Does anybody know of a place nearby where I can fly fish? I used to (well, 3 weeks ago) fish almost everyday and I desperately miss it. Thanks!! Shannon WYShan.aol.com
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Fly Fishing in Arizona
Any good fishing within 100 miles of Phoenix?
John, When I drove out to California from the East Coast, my southerly route took me through Arizona to visit a friend at Embry Riddle Univeristy in Prescott. We fished a small stream that parallels the main road heading out of Sedona. We caught some decent rainbows in the 10-13 inch class. I’m most certain that these were hatchery trout. I would also guess that the Department of Fish and Game would be stocking that stream being spring time now. Give it a try! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any good fishing within 100 miles of Phoenix?
John, When I drove out to California from the East, my southerly route took me through Prescott to visit a friend at Embry Riddle University. We went out and fished a small and scenic stream that parallels the main road heading out of Sedona. We caught some decent rainbows in the 10-12 inch class which were I’m sure stocked fish. I got em on black wooly buggers. Being Spring, I’d imagine they would be stocking soon. Give it a try! Justin – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any good fishing within 100 miles of Phoenix?
Path:
news.epix.net!news.sprintlink.net!worldlinx.com!clio.trends.ca!ki.net!winte rnet com!news2.interlog.com!news2.toronto.istar.net!istar.net!newsjunkie.ans.net !ne wsfeeds.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!gatech!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!psinn tp!t ransformer.pti-us.com.!news Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly Organization: Power Technologies Inc. Lines: 1 NNTP-Posting-Host: joe.pti-us.com Any good fishing within 100 miles of Phoenix?
I just retuerned from fishing in AZ, and had a blast! Oak creek canyon above Sedona was pretty good but too many people.I had the you wanted but its worth the distance, lost count on the number of fish, largest was a 25 inch 6 pound rainbow!!! if you are thinking of going there let me know ill give you the whole scoop! dave
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Info on High Sierra Fly-Fishing Wanted
suggest attractor patterns as well as the standard hare’s ears, zug bugs, and hatch matches….like caddis in June. I am suprised that you can get into the palisades area in early June. Last year this was solid snow until August
I have a customer who’s going to be in the High Sierra’s around Bishop, California, the last week in June. He’s interested in any fly-fishing opportunities there, particularly in the Alpine lakes and Pallisades Glacier areas. Any information on local shops, patterns, etc., would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Jim McKay Henry Weston Outfitters
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Rye Playland/Westchester, NY F'Fishing?
Does anyone know anything about fly fishing for stripers and blues at Rye Playland (or anywhere else in Westchester County for that matter)? I live in the area and would appreciate any info. thanks — floete
If you live there you already know you need a boat…. If that is no problem then you will find very good fishing from Scotch caps as far east as you want to run. The best times for me were on a dropping tide near the caps or a high tide just about everywhere else. Clousers work well, poppers when blues are around and big deceivers too. Watch for fire worm hatch in June/July. For Playland the breakwall was good. Use a sinking tip and have fun ! "The true angler is always content to fish alone" Brian Di Carlo
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Rod Building Advice
I’m interested in attempting to build my own fly rod. I’ve been looking through several catalogs for supplies, so no problem there. Does anyone have any advice on "how to" books regarding rod building? Thanks.
The definitive book on custom rod building is : Advanced Custom Rod Building by Dale Clemens publisher is Winchester Press. Can be bought through any mail order catalog that sells rod building supplies. — Dave
In my opinnion "Start to Finish Fly rod Building" (50 pages) published by the FlexCoat Company is more than sufissient to do a very good first-time job. If you fall in love with rod building you can buy the more comprehensive stuff. I bought it from Anglers Workshop, WA. Good Luck Jan errik Frithjofsen I’m interested in attempting to build my own fly rod. I’ve been looking through several catalogs for supplies, so no problem there. Does anyone have any advice on "how to" books regarding rod building? Thanks.
Jan Erik Frithjofsen
I’m interested in attempting to build my own fly rod. I’ve been looking
through several catalogs for supplies, so no problem there. Does anyone have any advice on "how to" books regarding rod building<< A very good book with excellent photographs of the building process including many close ups is Handcrafting a Graphite Fly Rod by Louis Garcia, published by Frank Amato Publications, it sells for $15.95. This is an excellent book for the first time builder. It walks you through the process from start to finish in a clear and precise manner. A.G.W. Manchester, NH
I’m interested in attempting to build my own fly rod. I’ve been looking through several catalogs for supplies, so no problem there. Does anyone have any advice on "how to" books regarding rod building? Thanks.
A good book is one by Skip Morris on building graphite fly rods. Also check mail order houses who specialize in rod building (e.g., Dale Clemens in Allentown, PA)
: I’ve built two rods and the only problem I ran into was mixing the flexcoat. The first rod : came out wonderfully because I used the measuring syringes. Next rod : the syringes were all gunked up and my mix was tacky for 6 months. So : I ask how do you clean them out after each use and or where do you : purchase extras?
Here’s another alternative: don’t use flex coat. Their epoxy is too thick and the syringes are unreliable. I use a two-part epoxy formula made by Manhattan Custom Tackle that gives a thin, glassy finish. You mix it using metal measuring spoons, so you know the parts are equal.
: I’ve built two rods and the only problem I ran into was mixing the flexcoat. The first rod : came out wonderfully because I used the measuring syringes. Next rod : the syringes were all gunked up and my mix was tacky for 6 months. So : I ask how do you clean them out after each use and or where do you : purchase extras? Here’s another alternative: don’t use flex coat. Their epoxy is too thick and the syringes are unreliable. I use a two-part epoxy formula made by Manhattan Custom Tackle that gives a thin, glassy finish. You mix it using metal measuring spoons, so you know the parts are equal.
I have had great sucess with the thinner of the two Flex Coat formulations.. After you build a rod them away. Replacement syringes are cheap insurance.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just use a piece of tying thread as the loop, pull it until it is under only the last 2 or 3 wraps, then cut it with a little exacto knife. Don’t get too much thread under the wrap or you’ll get nubs and they never really burn off that well. I use a piece of about 10lb test mono tippet material to pull the thread through, less twisting of everything. Once the end is pulled under the last several wraps and through pull on it quite hard and this will stretch it and lift the wraps a little and then carefully cut it close with an X-acto or razor blade. Then the end will pull back under the wraps nicely leaving no bumps… sometimes I nick the wraps but then I just redo them. Beats the hell out of trying to singe ends off, I always end up with sooty thread when I try that. Good luck build nice rods!
I am surprised that no one commented on a simpler solution to pulling the thread through and cutting it off with a sharp knife/ razorblade/ X-acto knife/ etc. You can use the same method but leave the end of the thraed rather short, let’s say 1/8th. of an inch. If you pull this short end back under the last 10 wraps or so none of it will come out and you won’t have to bother with trimming the end off or singing it or having an unsightly stump. It may not always work but it really is quite simple. Good luck! Tom Hackmann
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello All: A query for those of you versed in the fine art of rod building: I am intending to build myself a rod on a Sage SP blank when they become available in March. However, I have some trepidations as this would be my first foray into the rod building world. My question is: instead of risking a messy/lousy job on an expensive blank should I build a practice rod on a cheaper or blemished/second rod blank first? I would like my SP rod to be without too many major errors, cosmetic or otherwise. I intend to go slow and carefully. Is that all I need to do or are there certain mistakes that I must learn first in order to avoid later?
I have a question about the two part epoxy. I built two rods and the first one went fine because I used the syringes provided with the Crystal Coat to measure the two parts. The second rod is still tacky after 4 months, probably because the measurement of the Coat was incorrect. Why? Because the two measuring syringes were all gunked up from the first use. So two questions. 1. How do you clean the syringes? No I didn’t mix the two. 2. Where do you buy new syringes without buying an entire new package of Clear Coat?
I’ve built two rods and the only problem I ran into was mixing the flexcoat. The first rod came out wonderfully because I used the measuring syringes. Next rod the syringes were all gunked up and my mix was tacky for 6 months. So I ask how do you clean them out after each use and or where do you purchase extras?
The directions on the Flex Coat I’ve been practicing with says not to clean the syringes. I think it says to simply store them seperately in air tight containers. I have not gone back to look at them since I put them in zip lock baggies, so I’m not sure if I’ll face the same problem you had or not. As far as extras, the mail order companies (e.g. Angler’s Workshop, Jans) seem to have the best prices on these type of supplies.
—— snip ——- : : I’ve built two rods and the only problem I ran into was mixing the flexcoat. The first rod : came out wonderfully because I used the measuring syringes. Next rod : the syringes were all gunked up and my mix was tacky for 6 months. So : I ask how do you clean them out after each use and or where do you : purchase extras? I was told by the guys at Flexcoat to use alcohol to clean the syringes. I have also read in Advanced Custom Rod Building by Dale Clemens that you can thin the Flexcoat up to 15% to make it thiner. I store my syringes in mid-stroke after cleaning. Oh, Netcrafter’s sells them seperately including the mixing cups. Keep your feet dry, — Bob San Jose, Ca
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello All: A query for those of you versed in the fine art of rod building: I am intending to build myself a rod on a Sage SP blank when they become available in March. However, I have some trepidations as this would be my first foray into the rod building world. My question is: instead of risking a messy/lousy job on an expensive blank should I build a practice rod on a cheaper or blemished/second rod blank first? I would like my SP rod to be without too many major errors, cosmetic or otherwise. I intend to go slow and carefully. Is that all I need to do or are there certain mistakes that I must learn first in order to avoid later? Follow up questions: what is the most difficult aspect of the process? what should I practice? Yet another inquiry: what is your preferred method of finishing (tying off) the wraps? Do most folks use the method Garcia talks about in his book (pulling the thread underneath the wraps with a loop of guitar string or similar, and then while the thread is still under the wraps pulling the thread and loop in opposite directions until the thread breaks)? Or is there a more preferred method? Thanks for any info you can share. Andy
If you can find a flyshop that has a rod building class I strongly recommend it. I built my first rod on Sage RPL blank and I am very pleased with the result. A good teacher has a lot of tricks that make the job easier. To prevent bubbles, blow on the wet flex coat. First after mixing, then after applying. Bubbles disappear like magic. To pull end of wrap under the winding use a piece of same thread to make a loop and catch the main thread. Continue to wind for1/8 inch or so and pull the loop to snug it against the last turn. Cut off the end of the thread with a SHARP razor blade leaving about 1/16 inch end. Grasp the loop and give a quick pull back against the direction the thread is being wound. The end will pull under the winding leaving no end showing. Just take your time, nothing is difficult. Chuck
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello All: A query for those of you versed in the fine art of rod building: I am intending to build myself a rod on a Sage SP blank when they become available in March. However, I have some trepidations as this would be my first foray into the rod building world. My question is: instead of risking a messy/lousy job on an expensive blank should I build a practice rod on a cheaper or blemished/second rod blank first? I would like my SP rod to be without too many major errors, cosmetic or otherwise. I intend to go slow and carefully. Is that all I need to do or are there certain mistakes that I must learn first in order to avoid later? Andy If you can find a flyshop that has a rod building class I strongly recommend it. I built my first rod on Sage RPL blank and I am very pleased with the result. A good teacher has a lot of tricks that make the job easier. To prevent bubbles, blow on the wet flex coat. First after mixing, then after applying. Bubbles disappear like magic. To pull end of wrap under the winding use a piece of same thread to make a loop and catch the main thread. Continue to wind for1/8 inch or so and pull the loop to snug it against the last turn. Cut off the end of the thread with a SHARP razor blade leaving about 1/16 inch end. Grasp the loop and give a quick pull back against the direction the thread is being wound. The end will pull under the winding leaving no end showing. Just take your time, nothing is difficult. Chuck
I’ve built two rods and the only problem I ran into was mixing the flexcoat. The first rod came out wonderfully because I used the measuring syringes. Next rod the syringes were all gunked up and my mix was tacky for 6 months. So I ask how do you clean them out after each use and or where do you purchase extras?
: Andy : : If you can find a flyshop that has a rod building class I strongly : recommend it. I built my first rod on Sage RPL blank and I am very : pleased with the result. A good teacher has a lot of tricks that make : the job easier. : : To prevent bubbles, blow on the wet flex coat. First after mixing, : then after applying. Bubbles disappear like magic. : : To pull end of wrap under the winding use a piece of same thread to : make a loop and catch the main thread. Continue to wind for1/8 inch or : so and pull the loop to snug it against the last turn. Cut off the end : of the thread with a SHARP razor blade leaving about 1/16 inch end. : Grasp the loop and give a quick pull back against the direction the : thread is being wound. The end will pull under the winding leaving no : end showing. : : Just take your time, nothing is difficult. : : Chuck Chuck, I agree with every thing you have read, and I used to wrap that way. I had seen a wrapping tool in Herter’s catalog back in the late forties that I copied. This Christmas my kids gave me a Flo-coat wrapping tool. You don’t need it but it is nice. Netcrafter has them in their cat cheap. The thing I found was a copy of L.A. Garcia’s book "Hand crafting a Graphite Rod". It has some very nice photos (examlpes) of tools that can be copied. Something worth making _or_ purchasing is a whip finisher. I would never use a razor blade to cut the line for fear pf nicking the graphite and setting up a stress point for a fracture. Garcia states that if you pull evenly on the finisher and the thread end, the thread will break and in the process the finisher will come out also. Instead of using the same thread to tug the whip under the wrap, I’d suggest some monofiliment of about 15 lb. Just some additional thoujghts, — Bob San Jose, Ca
I just use a piece of tying thread as the loop, pull it until it is under only the last 2 or 3 wraps, then cut it with a little exacto knife. Don’t get too much thread under the wrap or you’ll get nubs and they never really burn off that well.
I use a piece of about 10lb test mono tippet material to pull the thread through, less twisting of everything. Once the end is pulled under the last several wraps and through pull on it quite hard and this will stretch it and lift the wraps a little and then carefully cut it close with an X-acto or razor blade. Then the end will pull back under the wraps nicely leaving no bumps… sometimes I nick the wraps but then I just redo them. Beats the hell out of trying to singe ends off, I always end up with sooty thread when I try that. Good luck build nice rods! Catch and Release Dave Wood Ravenna OH
Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly Organization: Prodigy Services Company 1-800-PRODIGY Here’s an idea I haven;t seen posted here before: instead of practicing on a cheap blank you probably won’t fish with anyway, buy a 3′ length of wooden dowling from your local hardware store (less than $1) and pretend it’s a blank. Practice placing guides, wrapping them and finishing. Then you’ll be ready for the real thing.
Consider that a wooden dowel will behave differently wrt absorption of the epoxy/varnish and wrt the way the wraps slide (and are manipulated) on the blank. It is always better to practice on something as close to the target as possible; it is always better to practice on something than not to practice at all. — Office: Denver, Colorado 1-303-595-2864 Home: Bailey, Colorado
Thought I’d add a couple of things. See below. snip Follow up questions: what is the most difficult aspect of the process? what should I practice? Placing the guides just takes time & trial and error, ditto on wrapping them. If you’re going to shape your own grip that would be where to practice. If using a pre-built grip practice reaming the hole while still keeping it centered. But the real thing to practice I think is mixing, applying and drying the varnish. Try it a couple times on an old rod just to make sure you get the results you expect before going ‘live’. If you plan on modifying the blank for any reason (by cutting it) you definitely want a couple cheap guinea pigs.
One of the keys to working with Flex-coat type finishes or other epoxies is consistent temperature. I like to work in the 75 degree (F) range and keep an aquarium thermometer on my work surface. A normal desk lamp will keep the temp consistent and can its height can be adjusted accordingly (if your epoxy starts smoking, your area is too hot 
) Keep the light on throughout the curing process. Yet another inquiry: what is your preferred method of finishing (tying off) the wraps? Do most folks use the method Garcia talks about in his book (pulling the thread underneath the wraps with a loop of guitar string or similar, and then while the thread is still under the wraps pulling the thread and loop in opposite directions until the thread breaks)? Or is there a more preferred method? I just use a piece of tying thread as the loop, pull it until it is under only the last 2 or 3 wraps, then cut it with a little exacto knife. Don’t get too much thread under the wrap or you’ll get nubs and they never really burn off that well.
So he uses the guitar string to cut the thread? I think I’ll stick to a razor blade. The blade should cut the thread with the slightest touch. If it doesn’t, change blades. On wraps in general, be consistent from guide to guide. Keep count of the number of turns. If you take 10 turns before jumping on to the foot, do it on all the guides the same way. Attention to detail is key. Relax, your rod’s going to fish fine when you’re done. Ross
My question is: instead of – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -risking a messy/lousy job on an expensive blank should I build a practice rod on a cheaper or blemished/second rod blank first? I would like my SP rod to be without too many major errors, cosmetic or otherwise. I intend to go slow and carefully. Is that all I need to do or are there certain mistakes that I must learn first in order to avoid later? Follow up questions: what is the most difficult aspect of the process? what should I practice? Yet another inquiry: what is your preferred method of finishing (tying off) the wraps? Do most folks use the method Garcia talks about in his book (pulling the thread underneath the wraps with a loop of guitar string or similar, and then while the thread is still under the wraps pulling the thread and loop in opposite directions until the thread breaks)? Or is there a more preferred method?
Here’s an idea I haven;t seen posted here before: instead of practicing on a cheap blank you probably won’t fish with anyway, buy a 3′ length of wodden dowling from your local hardware store (less than $1) and pretend it’s a blank. Practice placing guides, wrapping them and finishing. Then you’ll be ready for the real thing. The most difficult aspect of the process, IMO, is wrapping, especially if you are fussy about appearance. Which leads to your last question: I haven’t heard of that technique before, but it sounds like it will result in frayed thread ends sticking out of the wraps. A neater solution is to pull up on the thread end at a 90 degree angle to the blank and cut with a very sharp exacto knofe as close to the wraps as possible. More often than not, the cut end is snaps back under the wrap.
| Hello All: | | my first foray into the rod building world. My question is: instead of | risking a messy/lousy job on an expensive blank should I build a practice | rod on a cheaper or blemished/second rod blank first? I would like my SP | | Follow up questions: what is the most difficult aspect of the process? | what should I practice? | Andy OK I was in this position about 8 months ago. Since then I have built two rods, a Loomis IM6 8′ 6wt and a IMX 9′ 9wt. I dont think you need to practice on anything cheaper than what you want to fish with. There is no magic to building a graphite rod, and you really don’t need any of the stands that are sold as wrapping stands. I used the Morris book which explained everything well enough. I used the dish method to hold the thread and a Law book for tensioning. Wraps are comparatively easy to do and you can redo any of them if you feel they are not up to par untill you flex coat them. I did a couple of wraps on a dowell to get the hang of it. Finishing a wrap by pulling it under the last 1/2 dozen wraps with another piece of string then I cut it flush with a new X-acto blade. I can’t tell the diference between my wraps and Loomis Sage et al and I’m pretty picky. Things get a bit tricky if you want to include embedded trim rings but you probably won’t bother on your first attempt. The only thing I’ve had trouble with is a inlayed wrap of only one thread. The only thing I havn’t done is apply the flex coat myself (the place I bought everything else will flex coat as a service). I did buy some and I did a wrap on a section of a metal rod and coat it. It came out OK not meny bubbles – and I wasn’t being careful in the mixing process – decided to let the store do it because hand turning it was a pain in the you-know-what and I didn’t want to buy a turner then. I’m currently making a turner out of an old electric clock and I’ll do everything myself next time (I’ll still buy preformed grips). Good luck and have fun. PVM — / Paul V. Moruzzi | Patient Monitoring Division (PMD) | | Hewlett Packard HP Telnet: 1-659-7850 | | 3000 Minuteman Road Voice: 1-508-659-7850 | | Andover, Ma. 01810-1099 Fax: 1-508-685-5372 |
Hello All: A query for those of you versed in the fine art of rod building: I am intending to build myself a rod on a Sage SP blank when they become available in March. However, I have some trepidations as this would be my first foray into the rod building world. My question is: instead of risking a messy/lousy job on an expensive blank should I build a practice rod on a cheaper or blemished/second rod blank first? I would like my SP rod to be without too many major errors, cosmetic or otherwise. I intend to go slow and carefully. Is that all I need to do or are there certain mistakes that I must learn first in order to avoid later?
The first rod I built was on a cheap ($60) blank from a now defunct company. Everything worked fine, the glue jobs all held, etc., but there were some cosmetic touches that were beyond my capability at the time, so naturally I went on to build another and so on and so :- I don’t get too gaudy, in fact I don’t even use a trim band anymore, but I do like a single inlaid thread at the butt and at each ferrule. At first getting these right was maddening and very time consuming, but failure doesn’t wreck the blank, so you can start over again. By the time I bought a good blank I’d built 3 or 4 rods and it came out exactly like I wanted it to. Follow up questions: what is the most difficult aspect of the process? what should I practice?
Placing the guides just takes time & trial and error, ditto on wrapping them. If you’re going to shape your own grip that would be where to practice. If using a pre-built grip practice reaming the hole while still keeping it centered. But the real thing to practice I think is mixing, applying and drying the varnish. Try it a couple times on an old rod just to make sure you get the results you expect before going ‘live’. If you plan on modifying the blank for any reason (by cutting it) you definitely want a couple cheap guinea pigs. Yet another inquiry: what is your preferred method of finishing (tying off) the wraps? Do most folks use the method Garcia talks about in his book (pulling the thread underneath the wraps with a loop of guitar string or similar, and then while the thread is still under the wraps pulling the thread and loop in opposite directions until the thread breaks)? Or is there a more preferred method?
I just use a piece of tying thread as the loop, pull it until it is under only the last 2 or 3 wraps, then cut it with a little exacto knife. Don’t get too much thread under the wrap or you’ll get nubs and they never really burn off that well. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Thanks for any info you can share. Andy
Hello All: A query for those of you versed in the fine art of rod building: I am intending to build myself a rod on a Sage SP blank when they become available in March. However, I have some trepidations as this would be my first foray into the rod building world. My question is: instead of risking a messy/lousy job on an expensive blank should I build a practice rod on a cheaper or blemished/second rod blank first? I would like my SP rod to be without too many major errors, cosmetic or otherwise. I intend to go slow and carefully. Is that all I need to do or are there certain mistakes that I must learn first in order to avoid later? Follow up questions: what is the most difficult aspect of the process? what should I practice? Yet another inquiry: what is your preferred method of finishing (tying off) the wraps? Do most folks use the method Garcia talks about in his book (pulling the thread underneath the wraps with a loop of guitar string or similar, and then while the thread is still under the wraps pulling the thread and loop in opposite directions until the thread breaks)? Or is there a more preferred method? Thanks for any info you can share. Andy
Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Flyfishing » Used drift boat prices?
I have the opportunity to buy a used 2-man fiberglass drift boat, equiped w/oars, anchor, trailer, etc., but I’m really not sure what’s the going price? Any ideas? Please let me know what to what out for in buying a used fiberglass drift.
Please let me know what to what out for in buying a used fiberglass drift.
Leaks? — -Wayne Trzyna
i looked at boat that could handle two persons only (not sure of the size) and the guy was asking $1400. Because of the small size and ability to carry such a light load, many people don’t want them. Bottom line is that the guy took $800 for it. Having had a few drift boat, don’t get sucked into the price and compromise on the size. A two man boat offers limited carry capacity. You will always have more gear then you anticipate plus at least two other friends who want to fish. I just built a 17′ flyfishing model that can carry 3 fisherman and one oarsman confortability, first one I ever owned that really is close to what I need. — Gene Dobrzynski, Eagle River, Alaska