Question:

   Good fortune, Oh yes.  Now , I know that you and your friend are just checking to see what kind of answers you get here, but I offer this anyway.  Looking around at the following should get you going.    I now buy almost everything from Clemens Tackle, (610) 395 5119, www.clemenstackle.com   Dick French there is extremely knowledgable.  They list other rod wrappers than the Pacific Bay rod wrapper in their catalog and they have good quality in everything needed.  Get their catalog and ask about the RodCrafter’s Journal.  They also have some books you’ll want and video tapes maybe you’ll want later.    Both of the above have run seminars around the country each year but I don’t know anything about that.      Cabela’s "Tackle Craft" catalog  lists the Flex Coat line which looks good too.  Also a list of books and videos.    The best way and the fastest way to get a look at rod building is to go to www.flyanglersonline.com  click on rodbuilding and view the excellent twelve chapter on-line book on rod building.  It really gave me a jump start and I still refer to it.    Fishing with a rod that I built is extremely satisfying.  Almost as satisfying as fishing with my kids and grandkids using rods into which I put all the extra care that is not in a production rod.  Right now I’m thinking about a couple of new rods…  No it is not an addiction…  I could quit any time…  besides I have to build that spinning rod for my daughter-in-law, too.   —

A few days ago I mentioned to a friend (who used to own a fly shop) that I was planning to build some flyrods this winter. He asked me if I had the equipment I needed. I didn’t. He graciously gave me several pieces of useful looking equipment and some materials, including a number of cork grips and a very nice reel seat. I have only a dim notion of what some of this equipment is for. You can see a photo of the stuff at: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/stuff-web.jpg The long device with the aluminum base is obviously meant for wrapping and drying rods. It has two settings: a constant, slow speed labeled "dry", and a variable speed controlled by a foot pedal labeled "wrap". The large motor on the right is for shaping cork grips. The long things standing up in the background are specialized rattail files for reaming grips, I suppose. I don’t really know what the two devices in the middle (above the grips) and the clamp in the back of the photo are for, but I’ll figure it out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mark, if you happen to be reading this. I guess I’ll actually have to build those rods now. No excuses. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Steve,    The thing on the lower left is the foot pedal/reostat. Next to it, above the grips, is a conventional rod wrapper (learn to use it, it’s the most useful devise in the picture). Next to it is a thread holder accessory to the power wrapper. It  has the capacity to hold multiple thread spools, for fancy-shmancy wrapping. The lathe like device is a power wrapper, best used for production (sloppy looking) rod building. The only thing I’d use it for is drying, on the low speed setting. The big thing in the lower right corner is used to shape cork grips, after they’ve been glued up on the devise that’s leaning against the wall on the left. The things leaning against the wall on the right are tapered reamers, for enlarging the ID of the finished cork grip.   Hope this helps. E-mail me if you need instructions on how to use any of this junk.             Charlie

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If anyone could give me some information about how to use this thing I’d appreciate it. The guy who gave it to me can’t find the manual, if there ever was one. The manufacturer is Pacific Bay, Inc., Placentia, CA. The current PacBay catalog lists their address as:         Pacific Bay International, Inc.         165 Business Park Loop         Sequim, WA 98382         (360) 683 – 2080         (360) 683 – 2234 (Fax) They are pretty nice folks at PacBay, I’m sure they can find an instruction book for you.  The list price on that thing is $338, if you were wondering.

Thanks for the information, Kevin. This rod wrapper had so much dust on it that it must have been in my friend’s garage for many years. I despaired of finding a manual. I’ll call PacBay on Monday. Kevin If you can’t figure out how to use it, just box it all up and ship it to me.

I’m afraid you’ll have to come here to use it. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

could the black thing be a thread holder for the rod wrapper? does it attach to the wrapper somewhere?

Bingo. The black thread holder has three rollers (with ball bearings) that butt up against the rod wrapper in such a way that the thread is in exactly the right position. There’s also a metal bar with three machine screws, and I have absolutely no idea what it’s for. It doesn’t seem to fit anything on the rod wrapper or the thread holder. I’ve put three more photos on the web:         http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/p1.jpg         http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/p2.jpg         http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/p3.jpg The first one shows the motor, the chuck in the open position, the thread holder in position, two of the three roller mechanisms, and the mysterious metal plate. The second photo is a little closer up. The third photo shows the rollers that are under the thread holder, and the rod wrapper chuck in the closed position. If anyone could give me some information about how to use this thing I’d appreciate it. The guy who gave it to me can’t find the manual, if there ever was one. The manufacturer is Pacific Bay, Inc., Placentia, CA. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

not that I’ve ever used such fancy equipment but……. in http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/stuff-web.jpg The thing against the back wall with the wood pieces joined by threaded rod is for pressing together individual cork rings that have been put on the rod (or a dowel if you are making the grip separately) while the glue dries. The large motor on the right, I believe, is for turning the rod or the dowel with the cork rings so you can shape them.  It can also be used as a lathe to shape a wood insert for a reel seat.   I have no idea what the metal bar with three machine screws is used for. http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/p1.jpg You got your hands on some nice equipment. Want to make me a custom rod? Willi

Response:

Bingo. The black thread holder has three rollers (with ball bearings) that butt up against the rod wrapper in such a way that the thread is in exactly the right position. There’s also a metal bar with three machine screws, and I have absolutely no idea what it’s for. It doesn’t seem to fit anything on the rod wrapper or the thread holder.

I think it is a thread tensioning bar.  Can you add a pic of what I suspect is a wooden wrapping fixture, and a close-up of the bar, and particularly, its fittings/screws – are they "pulley wheels" or just nuts and bolts? If anyone could give me some information about how to use this thing I’d appreciate it.

How do you mean "how to use it?"  Do you mean rod-finishing in general, or the specifics of this set-up?  If you mean the particulars of this set-up, it doesn’t appear to be anything tricky or "non-standard," but if you mean rod-finishing in general, that’s quite a bit of info.  Anything in particular? TC, R – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -The guy who gave it to me can’t find the manual, if there ever was one. The manufacturer is Pacific Bay, Inc., Placentia, CA.

Response:

There’s also a metal bar with three machine screws, and I have absolutely no idea what it’s for. It doesn’t seem to fit anything on the rod wrapper or the thread holder.

Sort of a PS – It appears there are three holes of similar spacing near the edge of the wooden fixture.  Do these actually line up with the bar? R

Response:

If anyone could give me some information about how to use this thing I’d appreciate it. The guy who gave it to me can’t find the manual, if there ever was one. The manufacturer is Pacific Bay, Inc., Placentia, CA.

The current PacBay catalog lists their address as:         Pacific Bay International, Inc.         165 Business Park Loop         Sequim, WA 98382         (360) 683 – 2080         (360) 683 – 2234 (Fax) They are pretty nice folks at PacBay, I’m sure they can find an instruction book for you.  The list price on that thing is $338, if you were wondering. Kevin If you can’t figure out how to use it, just box it all up and ship it to me.

Response:

A few days ago I mentioned to a friend (who used to own a fly shop) that I was planning to build some flyrods this winter. He asked me if I had the equipment I needed. I didn’t. He graciously gave me several pieces of useful looking equipment and some materials, including a number of cork grips and a very nice reel seat.

Wow, you are lucky.  That’s top notch stuff.  Sorry I can’t help – I’ve never actually used that stuff  (What I mean you gear whores, of course, is that I don’t make enough rods to go to the trouble of buying that stuff. Affordability is not the issue when you are at one with the industry – when you are content in your consumerism – when you… well, you know.)

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A few days ago I mentioned to a friend (who used to own a fly shop) that I was planning to build some flyrods this winter. He asked me if I had the equipment I needed. I didn’t. He graciously gave me several pieces of useful looking equipment and some materials, including a number of cork grips and a very nice reel seat. I have only a dim notion of what some of this equipment is for. You can see a photo of the stuff at:    http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/stuff-web.jpg The long device with the aluminum base is obviously meant for wrapping and drying rods. It has two settings: a constant, slow speed labeled "dry", and a variable speed controlled by a foot pedal labeled "wrap". The large motor on the right is for shaping cork grips. The long things standing up in the background are specialized rattail files for reaming grips, I suppose. I don’t really know what the two devices in the middle (above the grips) and the clamp in the back of the photo are for, but I’ll figure it out. Any help would be appreciated.

Steve, I suspect the long, threaded rods and blocks (there are two blocks, no?) is a cork clamp, and the two things in the middle are thread holders/wrapping jigs/parts.  From what I can see, I’d guess the black one is a holder for use on the larger jig/dryer, and the wooden looking one is a stand-alone wrapping jig, but ???.  Can you post close-ups of them? TC, R

Response:

could the black thing be a thread holder for the rod wrapper? does it attach to the wrapper somewhere? . .Walter .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A few days ago I mentioned to a friend (who used to own a fly shop) that I was planning to build some flyrods this winter. He asked me if I had the equipment I needed. I didn’t. He graciously gave me several pieces of useful looking equipment and some materials, including a number of cork grips and a very nice reel seat. I have only a dim notion of what some of this equipment is for. You can see a photo of the stuff at: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/stuff-web.jpg The long device with the aluminum base is obviously meant for wrapping and drying rods. It has two settings: a constant, slow speed labeled "dry", and a variable speed controlled by a foot pedal labeled "wrap". The large motor on the right is for shaping cork grips. The long things standing up in the background are specialized rattail files for reaming grips, I suppose. I don’t really know what the two devices in the middle (above the grips) and the clamp in the back of the photo are for, but I’ll figure it out. Any help would be appreciated. Steve, I suspect the long, threaded rods and blocks (there are two blocks, no?) is a cork clamp, and the two things in the middle are thread holders/wrapping jigs/parts.  From what I can see, I’d guess the black one is a holder for use on the larger jig/dryer, and the wooden looking one is a stand-alone wrapping jig, but ???.  Can you post close-ups of them? TC, R

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Response:

A few days ago I mentioned to a friend (who used to own a fly shop) that I was planning to build some flyrods this winter. He asked me if I had the equipment I needed. I didn’t. He graciously gave me several pieces of useful looking equipment and some materials, including a number of cork grips and a very nice reel seat. I have only a dim notion of what some of this equipment is for. You can see a photo of the stuff at:         http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/stuff-web.jpg The long device with the aluminum base is obviously meant for wrapping and drying rods. It has two settings: a constant, slow speed labeled "dry", and a variable speed controlled by a foot pedal labeled "wrap". The large motor on the right is for shaping cork grips. The long things standing up in the background are specialized rattail files for reaming grips, I suppose. I don’t really know what the two devices in the middle (above the grips) and the clamp in the back of the photo are for, but I’ll figure it out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mark, if you happen to be reading this. I guess I’ll actually have to build those rods now. No excuses. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Boy you certainly did luck out.  That is some professional level equipment he gave you. Its hard to really tell from the picture, but the real seat and the handles also seem to be of very high quality. You’ve correctly identified most of the equipment.  The two devices in the middle (above the grips) and the clamp in the back of the photo are for gluing together cork rings for building your own handles. Have fun. Using a rod you put together yourself gives much of the same satisfaction one gets from fooling tough trout with flies you tied yourself. Bob Weinberger

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A few days ago I mentioned to a friend (who used to own a fly shop) that I was planning to build some flyrods this winter. He asked me if I had the equipment I needed. I didn’t. He graciously gave me several pieces of useful looking equipment and some materials, including a number of cork grips and a very nice reel seat. I have only a dim notion of what some of this equipment is for. You can see a photo of the stuff at: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/stuff-web.jpg The long device with the aluminum base is obviously meant for wrapping and drying rods. It has two settings: a constant, slow speed labeled "dry", and a variable speed controlled by a foot pedal labeled "wrap". The large motor on the right is for shaping cork grips. The long things standing up in the background are specialized rattail files for reaming grips, I suppose. I don’t really know what the two devices in the middle (above the grips) and the clamp in the back of the photo are for, but I’ll figure it out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mark, if you happen to be reading this. I guess I’ll actually have to build those rods now. No excuses. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Question:

I have been an avid, die hard fly fisherman for many years now, and now my three sons are also addicted to the sport. I recently decided to try using barbless hooks on some of my mini leech and damselfly patterns. I seem to be betting the same hook set, but 90% of the fish are long line released and I see nothing wrong with what I am doing. Any Ideas??

Response:

I have been an avid, die hard fly fisherman for many years now, and now my three sons are also addicted to the sport. I recently decided to try using barbless hooks on some of my mini leech and damselfly patterns. I seem to be betting the same hook set, but 90% of the fish are long line released and I see nothing wrong with what I am doing. Any Ideas??

Just do more of the same Mike.  If you’re losing fish, you have been letting slack get in the line and when they jump, you’re not bowing to the fish.  Chances are you’re stripping in real fast to get the slack out but you must have too much slack laying on the ground.  Try fishing with less slack and get on the reel ASAP would be my advice.   Another thing you must remember is "which side of the fishes mouth" are you hooked up in?  You hook up with the fish FACING the current.  When they are fighting and turn away from the current, you need to go easy. Only pull harder when they are facing the current and the hook is on your side of the jaw. Hope this helps Mike, — MrG/American Sportsman "the saga continues"

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Keep a tight line! Ernie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have been an avid, die hard fly fisherman for many years now, and now my three sons are also addicted to the sport. I recently decided to try using barbless hooks on some of my mini leech and damselfly patterns. I seem to be betting the same hook set, but 90% of the fish are long line released and I see nothing wrong with what I am doing. Any Ideas??

Response:

Don’t feel like the lone ranger! I had the same problem day before yesterday on the Conejos River in south central Colorado. Great fly fishing with 12 to 18 inch browns and some larger that I lost either with the  long line release (I like that) or a few cases of snap the 6X tippet. It was great fun nonetheless! Damn, now I’m back in Dallas… Graham – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have been an avid, die hard fly fisherman for many years now, and now my three sons are also addicted to the sport. I recently decided to try using barbless hooks on some of my mini leech and damselfly patterns. I seem to be betting the same hook set, but 90% of the fish are long line released and I see nothing wrong with what I am doing. Any Ideas??

Response:

I have been an avid, die hard fly fisherman for many years now, and now my three sons are also addicted to the sport. I recently decided to try using barbless hooks on some of my mini leech and damselfly patterns. I seem to be betting the same hook set, but 90% of the fish are long line released and I see nothing wrong with what I am doing. Any Ideas??

I have days like that.  Other days, it doesn’t happen.  Could be any number of things going on.  Smaller hooks are made of thinner wire which necessarily equates with sharper hooks…..large hooks are more likely to fail to penetrate deeply.  Some days fish are more sluggish; others, more active.  A lot of line in or on the water is more difficult to control.  A long or light tippet stretches more.  There are a host of other factors which might come into play.  At any rate, barbless hooks suggest you are planning to release them anyway, no?  A little earlier is better than a little later for the fish.

Response:

I have been an avid, die hard fly fisherman for many years now, and now my three sons are also addicted to the sport. I recently decided to try using barbless hooks on some of my mini leech and damselfly patterns.

Is there a chance that in your anticipation of having to keep the pressure on the hook that you are setting up too quickly and not getting solid hookups? I’ve been crushing the barbs off my hooks for years now and it seems like at first, when I was concerned about the hook staying in place, that I may have done just that. It doesn’t seem to be a problem anymore. Flyfish

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Mr. G. made some great points.  Like FlyFish, I’ve been using barbless hooks or flattening barbs for a few years now and when I lose a fish most times it’s due to having too much line on the water and not getting the fish on the real quickly enough. GL…and tight lines! Natty

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Question:

Ernie, I assume you are in eastern PA? I am new to flyfishing, but do know where you can do some awesome striper fishing if you aren’t too far east. Raystown Lake has great landlocked striper fishing. 20-30 pounders are the norm and 40+ pounders are caught every year. They do have a website, not sure of the url. Try a search. good luck, Matt

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Hey Guys, Been Fishing the Salt with a fly rod and other tackle for a while now.  Always looking for people to go with.  Would be interested in hearing from any body close. I am in NW Montgomery county.  Any body interested shoot me an email. Ernie, I would suggest a 10WT for most of your fishing, and an intermediate shooting setup for most of your fishing in the surf.  Seems like you are doing battle with the wind most of the time.  Faster sinking lines are great from jetties and intlets.  Get a stipping basket.  Fishing the surf with a fly rod can be very productive for several species in NJ and north coast waters and sometimes it will out produce conventional and spin tackle. Experiment… Damian Damian NuWave Tackle Innovative products designed by fishermen for fishermen Fly Tying equip and matls., Tackle and more. http://www.nuwavetackle.com/

Response:

Thanks Paul              Ernie

Response:

Hello Ernie, Like any "species specific" fishing, you first have to know your quarry and then you must understand your quarry’s quarry.  Check out http://www.fishbelly.com , it’s a new web site that is loaded with great information on fishing for all species of fish.  However, to meet your needs, check out the article by Lefty Kreh on fishing his deceiver fly http://www.fishbelly.com/articles/lk110399.htm Bookmark the site because there’s a new article coming soon by Lou Tabory that deals with how to present your flies for best results.  We will also be highlighting the many different prey items that all species of game fish love.  We will include underwater images that will help you "match the hatch" so to speak, in salt water. I hope this info helps.  If you have any other questions, hop on the fishbelly message forum and I’ll be happy to try and answer them. Finally, if you’re looking for "in depth" — no pun intended — information on stripers, check out the selection of videos at Fishbelly.  As an underwater videographer who has spent over 40 years in the striper’s domain, I can promise you any of the Laptew Production videos will make you a better striper angler. Seize the day!  Go fishing. Mike

Response:

After many years of trouting I would like to give stripers a try. I live in Penna, and can easily get to NJ or the Cape , beforo I start calling guides, some basic info      (when, where, with who) would be appreciated                                                  Thanks,                                                            Ernie

Response:

After many years of trouting I would like to give stripers a try. I live in Penna, and can easily get to NJ or the Cape , beforo I start calling guides, some basic info      (when, where, with who) would be appreciated                                                  Thanks,                                                            Ernie

For equipment you’ll want a 9wt, a sinking line and a reel that’s doesn’t say freshwater only. You can use a 7wt but if it’s really windy or you catch a really big fish you’ll appreciate the 9wt. A few clouser and a a few decievers are all you’ll need for flies. The early season in MA chartruse is a good color. I can’t help with NJ. Check with a local shop for what colors are good. If you buy the flies at the same shop you’re likely to get better advice. Paul

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Question:

See "Presentation" by Borger, or LaFontaine’s "Caddis" book.  Overpower a sidearm cast, just like skipping a stone on the water. It might work, but when I try it I always feel like a pompous ass. Oh-oh.  POLITICAL CORRECTION: for the illiterate out there, I mean that to be a four-legged animal, not somebody’s butt. BB

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Thanks everyone for oyur help! I will let you know how I go… PS Got my second trout on fly yesterday…. Put up a terrific fight for the size.  I got three big runs from this fish with line stipping of at a rate of knots… I thought it was a monster but it turned out to be about 1.5 lb. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How do you skip a fly.  I have read and heard about doing this…but I have know idea what is ment by it… Can someone help me out on this please

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(and so did charlie choc) The author is Leonard M. Wright jr, "Fishing the Dry Fly as a Living Insect," Dutton, 1972.

If, as charlie suggests, it is out of print, try the public libraries. Its a neat old book with some unorthodox solutions to some still relevant problems. The patterns he suggests and the materials he uses are not as water repellant nor as buoyant as the elk hair caddis, however, so you might want to use Wright’s technique, but stick with the EHC. brent

Response:

Mike Here’s another method that’s worked for me.  Use a long rod, very long leader 12′ with a very light tippet and stand almost directly upstream of the fish.   As the fly approaches the end of the drag free drift, lift the rod tip up and get all of the line and leader out of the water.  The fly just lightly dances on top of the water.  I’ve had a ‘bow jump 6" out of the water to take a fly danced this way. It works best if the wind and stream currents are going the same way, but it is difficult to get right if they are in opposite directions. Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.cgocable.net/~pcharles/index.html

Response:

Brent The author is Leonard M. Wright jr, "Fishing the Dry Fly as a Living Insect," Dutton, 1972. Dave Snedeker – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – (some good advice on technique and a probable origin for the technique) Mike: If you are looking to dig even deeper, check out "Fishing the Dry Fly as a Living Insect" by (an author I know, but whose name escapes me this early on a sunday – damn that aluminum cookware!). He describes how to tie and fish the ‘fluttering caddis’, but using hackle barbules and mink hair rather than elk hair. In any case, as Walt points out, the fish love the fly and the technique. good luck brent

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How do you skip a fly.  I have read and heard about doing this…but I have know idea what is ment by it… Can someone help me out on this please

maybe try looking at some of Lefty’s writings – also try FFM website, www.flyshop.com.  http://www.newsfeeds.com/       The Largest Usenet Servers in the World!

Response:

(some good advice on technique and a probable origin for the technique) Mike: If you are looking to dig even deeper, check out "Fishing the Dry Fly as a Living Insect" by (an author I know, but whose name escapes me this early on a sunday – damn that aluminum cookware!). He describes how to tie and fish the ‘fluttering caddis’, but using hackle barbules and mink hair rather than elk hair. In any case, as Walt points out, the fish love the fly and the technique. good luck brent

Response:

How do you skip a fly.  I have read and heard about doing this…but I have know idea what is ment by it…

I skip a caddis after the initial drift is completed.  Landlocked salmon love it when the fly reaches the end of the drift and swings around to be straight down stream.  A retrieve back with sudden jerks of the rod will also encourage hits. However, this only works for a certain kind of caddis, usually in June in Maine.  The same trick applied in September does not produce the same results. Dave LaCourse

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How do you skip a fly.  I have read and heard about doing this…but I have know idea what is ment by it…

There is no "right" way to do this. Experimentation is always worthwhile. I get 80%+ of my fish on a drag free drift, even on caddis. Fish feeding on Duns or emergers can be put down if there is any drag or motion to your fly, especially on heavily fished areas. I generally fish an area first using a drag free approach and then try some twitching or induced drag. Generally, just a twitch which moves the fly ever so slightly is what’s needed. However, in riffles and runs, more pronounced skips and hops followed by drag free drifts can be productive. A technique that sometimes brings up reluctant surface feeders in pocket water is a down stream technique. Wade upstream and to the side of one of the mini pools in a pocket stretch, until you are ten to fifteen feet away. In pocket water, fish are not easily spooked and a close approach is generally possible. Make a short cast to the side of the pocket you’re going to fish, raise your rod tip so that all the line and leader is off the water and hop a heavily dressed dry in and around the mini pool. With this technique, you can generally use a fly one or two sizes larger than what you would use on flatter water and a heavier tippets is also helpful. Strikes are violent. Fish will often will swipe at the fly but will hit it if your next cast is a drag free one. This is a good midsummer technique.  Especially in midsummer, these stretches of pocket water hold lots of fish including some good ones. Willi

Response:

How do you skip a fly.  I have read and heard about doing this…but I have know idea what is ment by it… Can someone help me out on this please

Response:

How do you skip a fly.  I have read and heard about doing this…but I have know idea what is ment by it… Can someone help me out on this please

 Mike, By twitching your rod real fast you send vibrations out your flyline/leader/tippet to the caddis. This causes the fly to "dance" on the water and it is a rare trout that can resist this flamenco. Here in the mountains of NC, there is a deceased flyfishing legend by the name of Mark Cathey. He "developed" this style back in the 20’s & 30’s on Hazel Creek and he always managed to fill his creel with the limit. Good luck with your dancing lessons, Walt —          The Blue Ridge Book Gallery      P.O. Box 5112  Banner Elk, NC 28604 http://www.abebooks.com/home/BLUEBOOKS/HOME.HTM

Response:

Question:

What is the proper size flies to use with a 3x and a 4x tippet or leader ? What is the tippet/leader range for WF5F line ?

Our most popular tippet sizes are 3x through 6x. In leaders we sell lots of 7 1/2′, 4x and 5x and 9′, 4x, 5x and 6x.  This is what the fly fishers buy in Nor Cal. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

Response:

What is the proper size flies to use with a 3x and a 4x tippet or leader What is the tippet/leader range for WF5F line ?

Standard rules: — divide hook size by 4 to get tippet thickness in Xs:  thus    #12 fits 3x, #16 fits 4x etc.  Most people nowadays fish    one grade finer. — Leader butt should be 2/3 thickness of line end, and not    too much stiffer. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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What is the proper size flies to use with a 3x and a 4x tippet or leader ? What is the tippet/leader range for WF5F line ?

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What is the proper size flies to use with a 3x and a 4x tippet or leader ? What is the tippet/leader range for WF5F line ?

class, boy. — George Gehrke All Writings

Question:

        Help.  I’m stuck up at School and I need something to stay sane. I love to fly fish, but I don’t ha the time to get out.  And there aren’t really any good spots around.  I am interested in fly tying,  but don’t know which one’s are good.  If you have any information please help me. Thanks, Nick

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   Help.  I’m stuck up at School and I need something to stay sane. I love to fly fish, but I don’t ha the time to get out.  And there aren’t really any good spots around.  I am interested in fly tying,  but don’t know which one’s are good.  If you have any information please help me. Thanks, Nick

Ask someone in your local fly shop to show you what you need to get started.  I think you will find that you can get better tools and much better supplies if you buy them seperate, than if you get a kit.  I did when I first started tying.  The difference in cost will be less that you thing. Good Luck, Greg

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Don’t get a kit. In a kit you get a lot of crap that you will never use and some really cheap tools. Get a Thompsom "A" vise, some hooks, and the materials you need for the flies you want to tie. If you haven’t tyed flies before, the wooly bugger is the starting place. Size 10 hooks, thread, chenille and a couple chicken feathers and you are in business.

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Nick: I think the best way to get yourself a fly-tying kit would be buying one piece at a time.  I can’t say that I have seen any really kits worth getting and I am not sure that one can save money either. Simply by a tool or two at a time along with some tying materials for a specific fly.  Gradually, you will end up with enough of tools and materials for the flies you would fish with. There is no need to buy the most expensive vice.  A Thompson vise is plenty for now. good luck jimmy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Help.  I’m stuck up at School and I need something to stay sane. I love to fly fish, but I don’t ha the time to get out.  And there aren’t really any good spots around.  I am interested in fly tying,  but don’t know which one’s are good.  If you have any information please help me. Thanks, Nick

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Check out "The Hyper-Compleat Guide To Getting Started in Flytying" by Steve Schweitzer at Midwest Flytyer at http://www.mwflytyer.com/mft/articles/hyperguide.htm.  Not a bad article.  I’ve passed it onto others who found it useful.

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Question:

Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers? A friend told me that you could preserve them with borax.  We have not yet been able to come up with a mixture ratio for this material.  Are there other preservatives which could be used? First task is to remove all fat or flesh from the skin.  When this is done, some tyers do not bother with any preservative, since they are not going to use the skin for any purpose, i.e. it does not need to stay flexible.

No, but it does need to be bug resistant.  I find that soaking bird or mammal skins in a saturated borax solution* and then drying them in a tray full of borax bug-proofs them without the use of anything smelly or toxic. *Fill a pail with hot water.  Add borax (plain unscented washing soda) and stir.  Keep adding borax until no more will dissolve.  Cool to room temperature. Soak your skins. Keep your stick on the ice, Thos.

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Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers?

snip….. snip…. No, but it does need to be bug resistant.  I find that soaking bird or mammal skins in a saturated borax solution* and then drying them in a tray full of borax bug-proofs them without the use of anything smelly or toxic. *Fill a pail with hot water.  Add borax (plain unscented washing soda) and stir.  Keep adding borax until no more will dissolve.  Cool to room temperature. Soak your skins.

Here’s another method that has worked well for me. Scrape all fat off the underside of the skin. Tack the skin to a board or piece of cardboard with the feathers down. Make sure the feathers are dry and arranged the way you want them before you do this. Sprinkle dry borax on the scraped skin surface covering all exposed skin. Be generous with the Borax. It will absorb water out of the skin. I kind of pile it on. Let it sit out for a few days to a few weeks. I don’t know the minimum time because I often set these out in the garage or basement and forget them for a while. A low humidity area would be best. When the skin is crinkly dry, untack it and brush off the borax and you are done. For a final treatment, put it in a plastic baggy and run it through several freeze-thaw cycles in order to kill any remaining resident insects. Cheers. Jon

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I’ve used footpowder to "cure" moose hide and it really works. Don’t see why it wouldn’t do the same thing on capes :O)  It’s also inexpesive and goes a long ways. Keith P

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers? A friend told me that you could preserve them with borax.  We have not yet been able to come up with a mixture ratio for this material.  Are there other preservatives which could be used? Also,  I would like to dye some of the capes.  Have heard that you should dye at the same time the felts are being cured? Any information on this procedure would be very appreciated. Trout Bum.

I just use plain old course salt.  Just spread the salt generously over the hyde and lay out in the sun, feather side down of course.  The saly draws out the moisture and the sun evaporates it.  After the skin is dry I shake off the excess salt then dust with talcum powder.  I still have pelts from pheasant season of two years ago, works great for me.                                                         Spy in Hawaii

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Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers? A friend told me that you could preserve them with borax.  We have not yet been able to come up with a mixture ratio for this material.  Are there other preservatives which could be used?

Hi BB, Years ago, I had some young customers that would go to the local live stock auction and bid on old roosters. They said they paid about $2 to $3 for live birds. They killed and skinned them. They tacked the skins feather side down, skin side up on a wood surface. They used salt to dry up and cure the skins. After they are real dry and stiff, I would put them into an airtight container or a big zip lock bag. As far as dying the feathers goes, you can use Rite or Vinyards(sp) dye. It is an art and not many do it well. The skin/feathers have to be clean, de-greased and moistened to except the dye. You put the dye into water and control the temperature so as to not ‘burn’ or ‘cook’ the feathers. I think we added something like rubbing alcohol to set the dye? You need very white hackle if you are looking for bright colors. Black is very hard to get. It can turn out purple. I hear about ‘cold’ dying processes. Good luck and have fun. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

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Hi, The method I used to preserve some pheasant skins was to scrape off as much fat as possible with a *non-serated edge* butter knife, stretch out and tack the skin feather side down, rub out and let dry with rock salt (usually 2 or 3 applications) and finally to cover the remaining almost-clean skin with borax. Then I let it dry in the garage for about 2 weeks.   Then I put them in a zip-lock bag.  Still have some of one skin left after ~12 years.

**SNIP** As far as dying the feathers goes, you can use Rite or Vinyards(sp) dye. It is an art and not many do it well. The skin/feathers have to be clean, de-greased and moistened to except the dye. You put the dye into water and control the temperature so as to not ‘burn’ or ‘cook’ the feathers. I think we added something like rubbing alcohol to set the dye? You need very white hackle if you are looking for bright colors. Black is very hard to get. It can turn out purple. I hear about ‘cold’ dying processes. Good luck and have fun.

To get a decent black with RIT dye you also have to add some brown into the mix.  Added a bit of Vinegar to set the dye (insturctions on the package). Like Bill said, you have to be careful with the temperatures (use a candy thermometer) or you can ruin some great feathers.   This is a very messy process but is worth the effort if you can’t get what you need locally and you can dye a bunch of stuff at once.  A.K. Best has a book out on dying materials that is quite good if your interested.                                   Good Fishing,                                         Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools Mt. Shasta Fly Fishing Schools http://www.thegrid.net/flyfish

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Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers? A friend told me that you could preserve them with borax.  We have not yet been able to come up with a mixture ratio for this material.  Are there other preservatives which could be used? Also,  I would like to dye some of the capes.  Have heard that you should dye at the same time the felts are being cured?   Any information on this procedure would be very appreciated. Trout Bum.

Response:

Could anyone out there tell me what you need to preserve feathers? A friend told me that you could preserve them with borax.  We have not yet been able to come up with a mixture ratio for this material.  Are there other preservatives which could be used?

First task is to remove all fat or flesh from the skin.  When this is done, some tyers do not bother with any preservative, since they are not going to use the skin for any purpose, i.e. it does not need to stay flexible. Also,  I would like to dye some of the capes.  Have heard that you should dye at the same time the felts are being cured?  

See Eric Leiser’s Fly Tying Materials (1973) or other books.  The main points seem to be preliminary rinse with a mordant, to maximize dye’s effect, and then control of temperature to avoid cooking (the way egg white is transformed by high temperature.) — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Question:

Harrison River in British Columbia has lots of big (to 25lbs.), strong (I’ve broken at least one reel) salmon.  Chums are not great to eat, but for us catch & release people they can be fun.  Small pink marabou flies fished deep can be great.  Downstream from the bridge is a favorite spot. Help!  I’d really like more information on this fishery.  Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.  Thanks!  :-) P.S. Please E-MAIL me your response (I am usually out fishing, so I don’t have time to MONITOR this bulletin board…but email gets to me no problem).  Thanks K Lawson

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I’ve fished the Harrison for a number of years. You want chums try flour red or orange glo-bug yarn with a tinsel body. Dead drift with a type 4 sink tip. For a change of pace try cutts part on the east shore. More my style. I find the big dogs  (and if you’ve been fishing in BC as long as me you’d call them dogs) kind of boring after getting over the initial novelty of big fish on the fly. But lots of people enjoy these hard pulling fish and if that’s you’re cup of tea – you know where they are. Should continue into Nov. Try the chehalis just up the Morris Valley road by the Sasquatch Inn for mondo dogs and lots of coho. Good cutts in Dec and steelhead show in late Dec- Jan. Gets very crwoded tho’ Best of luck!

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Question:

i’ve asked about fishing in colorado during the first week of april, and i’ve gotten mixed responses.  some say i’ll need an ice pick, others say there will be good fishing.  i’m confused. i’ll be staying in winter park, but would be willing to drive 1.5-2 hours to get  to a fishable locale.  i’m new to fly fishing, so i probably will be practicing my casting more than catching fish, but who knows?  any tips would be appreciated. anyone in colorado up for some fishing? (or teaching?) thanks, narayan — Narayan Nayar

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Dear Novice, I am an avid flyfisherman in Colorado and fish all season.  Depending on where you go you may encounter ice or clear, cold water.  The South Platte River, although heavily fished, can be fished all year around.  The area around Deckers is the most popular and has "Gold Medal" water.  You can pull out a 10lb rainbow in some of the deeper Holes (Gilpen Trail) or below Cheesman Dam.  Another place to fish is the Blue River in Silverthorne.  Some of the biggest fish are right below the Dam and in back of the outlet stores.  Word has it that their are 15lb Rainbows that are in their.  They feed on Miasis (sp?) Shrimp.  These are all within about 2 hrs or less.  One thing to remember is that the weather can be either beautiful and 50 degrees, or snowing 6-12 inches (especially in Summit county). Those are two places that you can try.  They are popular, but there are many fishing stores around to help you with fly selection and equipment.

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Question:

Does anyone have info about flyfishing possibilities on Bon-Aire?   My wife and daughter are trying to make me go and I won’t dive.

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I love Bonaire, maily, almost exclusively for the diving, but I can’t imagine that there is much in the way of flyfishing to be done.  Bonaire is a volcanic island and the depth profile tends to go: small coral shelf, small drop off (mebbe to 100′ or so), another small shelf and then BLAMMO, you have dropped off the edge of the world.  I’ve never been to either Klein Bonaire, but I suspect that it is similar.  Also, Bonaire has one of the strictest and longest standing reef and fish protection laws in the Carribean, primarily because of a fellow named Don Stuart (Captain Don) who is one of the wackier and more colorful people this world has to offer (and I’ve searched out quite a few).  He is a fantastic guy to drink some beers with down at Habitat, expecially on "country/western night".  We haven’t been down for eight years now owing to our having a couple of little units to consider, but a friend of mine just spent a month there on his sailboat and had a great time.  He said that it has grown a good bit since we were last there together in 87 but that the diving is still fantastic and the beer (Amstel) is still great, and affordable.  Essentially, the World Wildlife Fund did a great thing when they set up the Bonaire Marine Park, but they didn’t have flyfishers in mind.  Go on and take your snorkel, or better yet your regulator and have a great time.  If you do go, make sure you have the book "Guide to the Bonaire Marine Park", by Tom van’t Hof.  It’s a fantastic book and will show you how th dove the island WITHOUT A DIVE GUIDE OR BOAT!!!!  What a bonus!  You can dive REALLY CHEAP. Obviously, I love the place.  I hpe you go, even if there isn’t any flyfishing that I know of. Dave

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I couldn’t agree more.  I proposed to my wife there 9 years ago (she accepted!).  We haven’t been back, but we talk about it all the time. Neither of us dive, but we both snorkeled continuously.  It is sometimes better just to look at the fish than to catch them.  They are spectacular.  You don’t need a boat or a tour guide-just walk out into the water and you’re surrounded by the reef. The people were great, the ocean is great, the food is not.  There is a little town on the other side of the island from Kralendijk (the capital) where you can sit at a wonderful little outdoor juke joint and eat with the natives.  It is not a tropical paradise, very rocky, a desert island, but we loved it. Go, make your wife and daughter happy, and you’ll probably have a good time too.

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Does anyone have info about flyfishing possibilities on Bon-Aire? My wife and daughter are trying to make me go and I won’t dive.

I was there ~4 years ago and caught bonefish in the salt evaporation ponds on the south end of the island.  There are also some mangrove swamps that I think had some tarpon hanging out (not sure about this.)  The bonefishing was wade only (no boats allowed on the salt ponds.)  I think the name of the guide service I used there was Piscatour.  I don’t think Bonaire has a reputaion as a bonefish mecca, but they are there.  Also saw one permit zip by while we were out there.   There is also some offshore fishing there, but I didn’t try it. The ponds cove a fairly large area,  and if the mangrove area has permit and tarpon, you might find enough to interest yourself, but I would still be a little nervous about going there for fishing only. Dave B.

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