Question:

Got an Inside Passage cruise booked for the week of June 15th with my wife and kids, my parents and my brothers.  The boys are looking for some fly fishing opportunities when we are in any and all ports.  Does anyone have any recommendations for locations, guides, or do-it-yourself tips for Seward, Skagway, Ketchikan, orJuneau?  Thanks.  ~  The other "Bob A"

Response:

Bob A. (the other one) writes: Got an Inside Passage cruise booked for the week of June 15th with my wife and kids, my parents and my brothers.  The boys are looking for some fly fishing opportunities when we are in any and all ports.  Does anyone have any recommendations for locations, guides, or do-it-yourself tips for Seward, Skagway, Ketchikan, orJuneau?  Thanks.  ~  The other "Bob A"

Go to:  http://www.google.com/ Type in the above towns, one at a time, within quotes, and + "fly fishing" i.e. "seward" + "fly fishing" You’ll get thousands of hits; you will have to go through them and see what is important/interesting to you.  Good luck. Dave

Response:

Question:

All apologies if the answer is in an FAQ…I couldn’t find on for this NG. I’ll be on the Rogue river in OR this month, and would like to try fly fishing.  I’m a fairly learned baitcasting guy. Problem is, I’ve no equipment.  I’d like to buy a starter combo, and am looking at a Cortland (http://www.cbsmall.com/cgi-bin/webc.exe/discountfishinginc/st_prod.ht… rodid=130&p_catid=16&sid=4Wi2mP01630e2xz-27100614880.92) for $150 and this Cahill (http://thestore.alloutdoors.com/productfamily.asp?dept=1&category=103… cat=10325&pf=40193&sid=&shopperid=F2R1KL5P97S92LPH00A3HLDGRM5A3TBD) for $65. Any suggestions about brands, what to look for, how much is reasonable to spend would be appreciated.  I’m going to the local Galyan’s tomorrow.  I’d like to think I could try the hobby for $150…is that reasonable? Thanks! Scott

Response:

Yes it is entirely reasonable Scott. St Croix has the Legend series of fly rods for around $100, I own 3 of them and entirely satisfied with them all. There are several of us on this NG who have "discovered" Cabela’s 3 Forks and Stowaway series flyrods. I can tell you that I have extensively tested all my 3 Forks and Stowaways and they are well worth the money. Probably the best dollar for dollar buy on fly rods anywhere. Since you are new at this flyrodding business, a slower action rod would be the best choice for you, and the Cabela’s rods are slow action rods.  You will be fishing for trout on the Rogue (presumably) I would recommend a 5 wt 9 footer.  St Croix carries this in One other piece of advice, you can get a good reel these days for around $40 and up, and that’s really all you need, but get a decent quality line.  Hope this helps. Frank Church Elkhart, IN USAF RETIRED – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – All apologies if the answer is in an FAQ…I couldn’t find on for this NG. I’ll be on the Rogue river in OR this month, and would like to try fly fishing.  I’m a fairly learned baitcasting guy. Problem is, I’ve no equipment.  I’d like to buy a starter combo, and am looking at a Cortland (http://www.cbsmall.com/cgi-bin/webc.exe/discountfishinginc/st_prod.ht… p rodid=130&p_catid=16&sid=4Wi2mP01630e2xz-27100614880.92) for $150 and this Cahill (http://thestore.alloutdoors.com/productfamily.asp?dept=1&category=103… b cat=10325&pf=40193&sid=&shopperid=F2R1KL5P97S92LPH00A3HLDGRM5A3TBD) for $65. Any suggestions about brands, what to look for, how much is reasonable to spend would be appreciated.  I’m going to the local Galyan’s tomorrow.  I’d like to think I could try the hobby for $150…is that reasonable? Thanks! Scott

Response:

Welcome to flyfishing Scott.  If you want a very economical starter set, I would suggest a Pflueger Purist 5 or 6 wt 8 1/2′ rod from Kmart or GI Joe’s for about $45 and a Pflueger Medalist reel (about $30?) or an Okuma Sierra (for $39 from www.Ezyflyfish.com), and a Cortland Fair Play fly line to match the rod.  All for well under a $100.  The rods are surprisingly good performers compared to anything I’ve tried for under $100.  I agree with the idea of renting or borrowing some equipment first, if possible, and also taking some flycasting lessons. Good Luck flyfishing, Pat K * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

John, I got the beer, but where’s my steak? — Opie  –Planning for the Past–

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – …this is by far the best……spend three c-notes on a half a day’s fishing with a lot of instruction and a person in your frame of mind will save a lot of money in the long run…..buy the guide a beer and a sandwich or steak afterwards and keep you ears open!……john Problem is, I’ve no equipment.  I’d like to buy a starter combo, You know, there is another possibility here.  A lot of fly shops out here have rental equipment.  I would check around and find a fly shop that offers some rentals and go in there.  Chances are that you can rent equipment and perhaps get some free casting lessons while you try out rods.  That would free up some money for flies, tippet, ect while keeping the costs down to a minimum in case you don’t like fly fishing. Warren X#-[ Trout Dwellers Unite! Western Conclave Guru For info: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/sp_ROFF_people/wclave/wclave.html

Response:

I’ve been watching this thread pretty close and it has come to my attention that more well thought out posts are now being offered. There are a great many more posts that recommend low cost great for beginners starter kits like the Cabelas line and a lot less of the "what do you want to fish for and where" along with the "get what fits you" and "The better you learn with, the better you’ll be (meaning spend a bundle on a fast long rod.) The last of which is pure BS. A beginner needs a rod that will let him feel loading and allow him time to react, is forgiving of off timing and minor foepas. Is not expensive to buy leaving enough for vet flys etc. is short enough not to tangle in tree limbs. Last but not least is a combination that is still of use even after the graduation up to the faster longer rods as expertise grows. The best advice is to amass all the mail order catalogs you can get. Study them, Then purchase a starter combo that is slow, short , and pleases your eye. By the way the reel is important unless you are fishing for shinners. John Popp

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Problem is, I’ve no equipment.  I’d like to buy a starter combo, You know, there is another possibility here.  A lot of fly shops out here have rental equipment.  I would check around and find a fly shop that offers some rentals and go in there.  Chances are that you can rent equipment and perhaps get some free casting lessons while you try out rods.  That would free up some money for flies, tippet, ect while keeping the costs down to a minimum in case you don’t like fly fishing. Warren X#-[ Trout Dwellers Unite! Western Conclave Guru For info: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/sp_ROFF_people/wclave/wclave.html

Response:

The FAQ page can be found on the new ROFF page.  The link is bellow.  A lot of other good ROFF information is also on the page.  Enjoy.  :-) BTW, I like the Cabela’s rods for the buck.  Check out http://www.cabelas.com/texis/scripts/store/+/CatalogDisplay/displayPOD/C abFALL1998/CabFALL1998AVATAA/IA495C They are in your price range and would be a good starting point. However you should know that after you’re hooked, you might want something that cost a little bit more and that fits your particular fishing style. — Vern The new ROFF page: http://home.earthlink.net/~flyfishing4fun "Wilderness needs no defense, only more defenders"                             quote by Edward Abbey All apologies if the answer is in an FAQ…I couldn’t find on for this NG. (snip) Problem is, I’ve no equipment.  I’d like to buy a starter combo, and am looking at a Cortland for $150 and this Cahill (snip)… I’d like to think I could try the hobby for $150…is that reasonable?

YES Thanks! Scott

Before you buy.

Response:

…this is by far the best……spend three c-notes on a half a day’s fishing with a lot of instruction and a person in your frame of mind will save a lot of money in the long run…..buy the guide a beer and a sandwich or steak afterwards and keep you ears open!……john

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Problem is, I’ve no equipment.  I’d like to buy a starter combo, You know, there is another possibility here.  A lot of fly shops out here have rental equipment.  I would check around and find a fly shop that offers some rentals and go in there.  Chances are that you can rent equipment and perhaps get some free casting lessons while you try out rods.  That would free up some money for flies, tippet, ect while keeping the costs down to a minimum in case you don’t like fly fishing. Warren X#-[ Trout Dwellers Unite! Western Conclave Guru For info: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/sp_ROFF_people/wclave/wclave.html

Response:

All apologies if the answer is in an FAQ…I couldn’t find on for this NG.

There is a FAQ somewhere, but the best advice on ROFF is "DUCK!" and "Be afraid, be very afraid…"  <G.  Seriously, a FAQ on this would be kinda useless, as there are many opinions.  You know what they say about opinions and assholes?   Well, ROFF is ground zero…<G. I’ll be on the Rogue river in OR this month, and would like to try fly fishing.  I’m a fairly learned baitcasting guy.

Oregon?  There are some here that will be a great help, I’m sure. Problem is, I’ve no equipment.  I’d like to buy a starter combo, and am looking at a Cortland (http://www.cbsmall.com/cgi-bin/webc.exe/discountfishinginc/st_prod.ht… rodid=130&p_catid=16&sid=4Wi2mP01630e2xz-27100614880.92) for $150 and this Cahill (http://thestore.alloutdoors.com/productfamily.asp?dept=1&category=103… cat=10325&pf=40193&sid=&shopperid=F2R1KL5P97S92LPH00A3HLDGRM5A3TBD) for $65.

JMO, but I wouldn’t buy your first rod via mail order.  Trying to buy a rod/reel this way is like saying "I like blue.  Please send blue pants." You really need to actually feel, handle, and optimally, cast the rod, especially as a novice. Any suggestions about brands, what to look for, how much is reasonable to spend would be appreciated.  I’m going to the local Galyan’s tomorrow.  I’d like to think I could try the hobby for $150…is that reasonable?

Well, again, JMO, but you did ask:  Is that reasonable?  Yes.  Possible? Yes.  Likely?  Depends.  Confused?  Sorry.  Seriously, it is related to the advice above in that you need to find a rod you like, and you might like a 20.00 rod or you might like a 2000.00 rod.   If your situation is such that money is no object, then buy what you like, period, be it 20.00 or 2000.00.  IMO, any synthetic rod over about 200.00 is priced for reasons other than "cost," i.e. seat and handle hardware, finish, guides, name, handwork, warranty, etc., and is a "value to buyer" situation.  This is OK, just understand what your money is buying. If you need/want to stay on a budget (or just have a frugal streak), go get a cheapo rod and reel (if you buy a "Starter Set," you will likely need another line) at WalMart/KMart or get something used, like at a pawn shop, in the appropriate size.  Why?  Simple: you likely don’t know what you like, and having no experience to go on, won’t know cheap from expensive, or even if you like the sport, so why risk any more than needed to check it out?  I’ll say JMO, but I’d doubt any could prove me wrong: A 20.00 flyrod can have, and usually does have, more in common with a 1000.00 rod than a novice would think, same for a 15.00 versus a 600.00 reel (learning, practice, freshwater, and, generally, fish under 15ish pounds), but a 15.00 line is not likely even close to 40.00 line. A 1500.00 rig will not be easier or faster to learn on, nor will it necessarily be "better" for a particular person.  Buy a good DT (Double Taper) line for practice because when you wear one end out _practicing_(hint, hint), you can reverse it and have a "new line."  A WF (Weight Forward) would seem a waste here, but YMMV. Also, JMO: you can teach yourself, but lessons from a pro or experienced flyrodder can be invaluable and will likely speed things up.  This is where some "budgeting" might come in: If a shop you like and feel you trust offers free classes for new customers, but charges for non-customers, that might figure into the above "cheapo" advice, and would likely be worth figuring in. HTH? TC, R – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Scott

Response:

Problem is, I’ve no equipment.  I’d like to buy a starter combo,

You know, there is another possibility here.  A lot of fly shops out here have rental equipment.  I would check around and find a fly shop that offers some rentals and go in there.  Chances are that you can rent equipment and perhaps get some free casting lessons while you try out rods.  That would free up some money for flies, tippet, ect while keeping the costs down to a minimum in case you don’t like fly fishing. Warren X#-[

Trout Dwellers Unite! Western Conclave Guru For info: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/sp_ROFF_people/wclave/wclave.html

Response:

Question:

Sink tips as well as full sinking lines come in a variety of sink rates.  If your not getting down as deep as you like, you might just need a higher density line. The experts I have read say that the advantage of a full sinking line, is that it  stays in the strike zone longer.  This is because the sink tips are hanging down at an angle, so that the fly is being pulled up. Some times this can be an advantage though.  My fishing buddy has done great on a sink tip with a carry special and a chironomid trailer. — Terry Robinson Visit me at http://home.earthlink.net/~flyfisher23/  Terry’s Fishing and Writing place

Response:

Kind of depends on whether you are fishing moving or still water. With a fast sink tip in moving water, the ‘angle’ is not a factor. All of the sinking portion is under, along with butt, leader and tippet (6′ to 8′), and streamer ( I don’t ever nymph with a sinktip!). Not much (at most 10 or 20 feet) of your running line (that would be the non-sinking portion of the fly line for those ‘equipment-ally challenged’ out there) would even be off the reel, allowing pretty good control over the mending and stripping that would be taking place. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana http://www.montana.com/dno/dno.htm 406-626-4022

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sink tips as well as full sinking lines come in a variety of sink rates.  If your not getting down as deep as you like, you might just need a higher density line. The experts I have read say that the advantage of a full sinking line, is that it  stays in the strike zone longer.  This is because the sink tips are hanging down at an angle, so that the fly is being pulled up. Some times this can be an advantage though.  My fishing buddy has done great on a sink tip with a carry special and a chironomid trailer.

Response:

Hi Claude, I don’t like sinking tip as you have a curve in the line and you can’t really feel what happen around the fly. 6 to 10 feet in average?  With a floating line, an intermediate and a number 3 (or 2) sinking line, you are set for most of the conditions. Philippe http://fishing.ifrance.com * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is Beautiful

Response:

This year I want to try fishing a little bit deeper. hoping to get the big trout if the dry flies don’t work… I had all kinds of different answers so I hope the experience fly of this group can help. some said a sinking tip will be enough other full sinking  line???? Fishing on a small lac, deepest in the middle 20 feet. average 6 to 10 feet. If I stay on the same spot and fish from shore to middle I have used the sinking tip and look ok but never seems to go very deep or deep enough to get the big old trout ? I know for sure there are some big one, a diver saw a couple very nice rainbow…at the bottom. if trolling slowly, does the full sinking line will be to heavy or ok? I plan to use it on a 5wg rod. Thanks in advance for all your help Claude

Response:

The faster you troll, the shallower your line will stay due to the friction/planing of the line. A full sinking line should be fine at those depths if you troll slowly. You might even wish to use a very dense loop on sinktip extender (mini sink tip) in addition to your sinking line. Good luck rtw if trolling slowly, does the full sinking line will be to heavy or ok? I plan to use it on a 5wg rod. Thanks in advance for all your help Claude

– Remove "zzz" from address if emailing direct.

Response:

Question:

I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies. I have tried a light coating of Scotchguard, which does not seem to do too much. I am wondering if soaking flies in Scotchguard would work better, or if there are other products that could to the trick. Please note the following: -my attractor patterns tend to float forever, especially when they are ignored by     the fish, I am more concerned with less heavily  dressed flies, especially     those that ride low on the water, or hackless patterns such as poly spinners     etc. etc. – IMHO, false casting is a good way of further spooking already spooky fish,     and not the best fly floatant, as I have seen mentioned from time to time.     Also, what if you do not have space for a backcast and you are forced to     rollcast your dries ? – a better floatant could be a solution, however what I currently use seems     to do the trick. Since it is a paste, it is hard to apply to details of small flies,     and this is the reason why I would like something that I apply once, that will     prevent the bodies of the flies from soaking up too much water Thanks -Vittorio

Response:

I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies. I have tried a light coating of Scotchguard, which does not seem to do too much. I am wondering if soaking flies in Scotchguard would work better, or if there are other products that could to the trick.

I hear Orvis has a GREAT floatant, you should try that. [Ducking],      - Ken — "Time is but the stream I go a-fishin in. I drink at it, but while I drink I see the sandy bottom and detect how shallow it is. It’s thin current slides away, but eternity remains."   – H.D. Thoreau

Response:

Other than Scotch Guard, the way you dress you pattern helps, meaning your hackle density, etc.  Variants of patterns such as a parachute or irresistable instead of a standard adams; CDC & Elk Hair vs a regular Elk hair caddis, etc..  Dress your flies to suit the water you will be fishing. A good dessicant can help, which is what I use when I can’t false cast. There is a brand of dessicant in a green translucent bottle called "Dry Shake" that dries off a fly quickly.  If you use that, and then hit it with your flotant of choice, its as good as starting with a fresh fly. I am going to mention it anyhow Vittorio, GG’s flotant really is good stuff. I used to use paste before switching.  It is worth the small investment of giving it a try.   Liquid floatants are better at getting into the details, which is the main reason I tried liquids, the liquids I tried didn’t work well enough until I used GG’s brand of flotant, no kidding. Good luck, let us know how your Scotch Guard soaking works.  I have found just spraying SG to be relatively useless. — Matt Blickensderfer * Piscaro itaque dicet mendacium *

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies. I have tried a light coating of Scotchguard, which does not seem to do too much. I am wondering if soaking flies in Scotchguard would work better, or if there are other products that could to the trick. Please note the following: -my attractor patterns tend to float forever, especially when they are ignored by    the fish, I am more concerned with less heavily  dressed flies, especially    those that ride low on the water, or hackless patterns such as poly spinners    etc. etc. – IMHO, false casting is a good way of further spooking already spooky fish,    and not the best fly floatant, as I have seen mentioned from time to time.    Also, what if you do not have space for a backcast and you are forced to    rollcast your dries ? – a better floatant could be a solution, however what I currently use seems    to do the trick. Since it is a paste, it is hard to apply to details of small flies,    and this is the reason why I would like something that I apply once, that will    prevent the bodies of the flies from soaking up too much water Thanks -Vittorio

Response:

Michael, I have tried the soaking in ScotchGuard trick. I found very little improvement on floatability. I soaked several flies in a container of Scotchguard for about a half hour then let them dry on a paper towel. I then took them and some flies I had not treated with Scotchguard fishing.  The flies soaked in Scotchguard floated only slightly longer than non-treated flies. To me it did not seem to be worth the extra effort and mess of soaking the flies in Scotchguard for what little extra floatability I got.The fliesI fished with floatant(Gink) floated just fine. I was experimenting with a parachute Adams. bruce – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -0] : : I have seen people claim that soaking in ScotchGuard works, although I : haven’t tried it. They said to spray some in a 35mm film cannister and : shake the flies in there, as I recall. : — : Charlie… I have tried that and come to the conclusion that Scotchgaurd  has no noticable effecton the flotation or soakability of my dry flies. I currently use old GG’s product at streamside and find that it works as advertised. Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories (remove x’s from email if not      Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971  a spammer) Phone: (650)-857-5491

Response:

vittorio asked for advise on fly floatants. Anyone who tries Scotchguard might be tempted to try Rain-X. Please don’t that crap stunk up the garage for about a week. Big Dale

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Other than Scotch Guard, the way you dress you pattern helps, meaning your hackle density, etc.  Variants of patterns such as a parachute or irresistable instead of a standard adams; CDC & Elk Hair vs a regular Elk hair caddis, etc..  Dress your flies to suit the water you will be fishing. A good dessicant can help, which is what I use when I can’t false cast. There is a brand of dessicant in a green translucent bottle called "Dry Shake" that dries off a fly quickly.  If you use that, and then hit it with your flotant of choice, its as good as starting with a fresh fly. I am going to mention it anyhow Vittorio, GG’s flotant really is good stuff. I used to use paste before switching.  It is worth the small investment of giving it a try.   Liquid floatants are better at getting into the details, which is the main reason I tried liquids, the liquids I tried didn’t work well enough until I used GG’s brand of flotant, no kidding. Good luck, let us know how your Scotch Guard soaking works.  I have found just spraying SG to be relatively useless. — Matt Blickensderfer * Piscaro itaque dicet mendacium * I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies. I have tried a light coating of Scotchguard, which does not seem to do too much. I am wondering if soaking flies in Scotchguard would work better, or if there are other products that could to the trick. Please note the following: -my attractor patterns tend to float forever, especially when they are ignored by    the fish, I am more concerned with less heavily  dressed flies, especially    those that ride low on the water, or hackless patterns such as poly spinners    etc. etc. – IMHO, false casting is a good way of further spooking already spooky fish,    and not the best fly floatant, as I have seen mentioned from time to time.    Also, what if you do not have space for a backcast and you are forced to    rollcast your dries ? – a better floatant could be a solution, however what I currently use seems    to do the trick. Since it is a paste, it is hard to apply to details of small flies,    and this is the reason why I would like something that I apply once, that will    prevent the bodies of the flies from soaking up too much water Thanks -Vittorio

3M marketed a floatant years ago (20 yrs, maybe) and from what I heard it was scotchguard – I think the trick is to spray flies 24 hrs b4 there use and then apply a floatant, Daves bug float or whatever. The post b4 mine from Mr Matt Blickensderfer about dressing flies is probably most important.  http://www.newsfeeds.com/       The Largest Usenet Servers in the World!

Response:

tried gink? — Nicholas J. Slodki http://trampled.net/Nikolai0/

:I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies. :I have tried a light coating of Scotchguard, which does not seem to do :too much. :I am wondering if soaking flies in Scotchguard would work better, or if :there are other products that could to the trick. : lease note the following: : :-my attractor patterns tend to float forever, especially when they are :ignored by :    the fish, I am more concerned with less heavily  dressed flies, :especially :    those that ride low on the water, or hackless patterns such as poly :spinners :    etc. etc. :- IMHO, false casting is a good way of further spooking already spooky :fish, :    and not the best fly floatant, as I have seen mentioned from time to :time. :    Also, what if you do not have space for a backcast and you are :forced to :    rollcast your dries ? :- a better floatant could be a solution, however what I currently use :seems :    to do the trick. Since it is a paste, it is hard to apply to details f small flies, :    and this is the reason why I would like something that I apply once, :that will :    prevent the bodies of the flies from soaking up too much water : :Thanks : :-Vittorio : : :

Response:

I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies.

        in my twentysomething years of fishing for trout, i have found nothing that is as long lasting as gink. wayno – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Thanks -Vittorio

Response:

(Frogspritz) writes: Someone gave me the bottle to try.  Haven’t tried it yet, however, so who knows? Unfortunately, I don’t know where it could be for sale.

The stuff works, it really works if you follow the instructions. And it is becoming available in many fly shops. Wayne Knight Geneva IL                            

Response:

0]

: I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies. : I have tried a light coating of Scotchguard, which does not seem to do : too much. : I am wondering if soaking flies in Scotchguard would work better, or if : there are other products that could to the trick. : : I have seen people claim that soaking in ScotchGuard works, although I : haven’t tried it. They said to spray some in a 35mm film cannister and : shake the flies in there, as I recall. : — : Charlie… I have tried that and come to the conclusion that Scotchgaurd  has no noticable effecton the flotation or soakability of my dry flies. I currently use old GG’s product at streamside and find that it works as advertised. Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories  (remove x’s from email if not      Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971   a spammer) Phone: (650)-857-5491              

Response:

I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies.         in my twentysomething years of fishing for trout, i have found nothing that is as long lasting as gink.

Speaking of Gink, you’re suposed to put it on a dry fly (I mean on a fly that’s not wet). No doudt that’s best, but I sometimes slather it on a soaked fly and it still seems to work pretty well. I’ll dry the fly out as well as I can with a few false casts, but the fly is still pretty damp. — something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

<<I hear Orvis has a GREAT floatant, you should try that. And, Orvis sells a neat tub of dessicant (drying crystals).  Simply put you fly in the tub, close the lid, and shake a couple of times. Works wonderfully.  Then you wouldn’t need any of that sissy floatant stuff. Dave pushing Ken aside and also ducking.

Response:

I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies.

I have before me a little bottle of stuff called "Water Shed", which is called "permanent waterproofing liquid".  Instructions call for a drop to be added to the fly at least one day before the fly touches the water for the first time. "It will not effect color, softness and is odorless after 24 hour cure period" says the label. Someone gave me the bottle to try.  Haven’t tried it yet, however, so who knows? Unfortunately, I don’t know where it could be for sale. Mark Faulkner

Response:

I am looking for advice on how to improve the floatability of flies. I have tried a light coating of Scotchguard, which does not seem to do too much. I am wondering if soaking flies in Scotchguard would work better, or if there are other products that could to the trick.

"Watershed" permanent waterproofing liquid is recommended by and available from Feather-Craft Fly Fishing of St.Louis. http://www.flyfishamerica.com/Ads/National/FeatherCraft98JF.html I have no connection with Feather_Craft other than satisfied customer. — Ken Fortenberry

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Question:

I’m going to be canoeing in the Allagash this summer (late July/August).  Any thoughts in this group on what the fishing up there is like?  I’ve heard it’s not very good.  Should I even bother?  What should/shouldn’t I take.   Obviously I need to minimize the gear I will be taking. John

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Hi John, I am  Maine Guide and have did the Allagash many times. There certain times of the year when you can catch all the brook trout you want, then there are times you wish you had stayed home. Usually June and the early part of July are the best. If you fly fish bring a Wordens Worry, if you don’t fly fish dig your worms and grubs along the bank. Then there are those excellent trout p[onds all along the way. Good luck!!!! Gene – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m going to be canoeing in the Allagash this summer (late July/August). Any thoughts in this group on what the fishing up there is like?  I’ve heard it’s not very good.  Should I even bother?  What should/shouldn’t I take. Obviously I need to minimize the gear I will be taking. John

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Question:

Can anyone tell me when and where are the 1998 East Coast wholesale dealer trade shows rumrunner

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Can anyone tell me when and where are the 1998 East Coast wholesale dealer trade shows rumrunner

There are no wholesale trade shows in the east that I’m aware of – just the IFTD and NAFTA shows in Denver and Salt Lake City. — Best regards, Dave Visit Dave Teffeteller’s Fly Fishing Guides Home Page http://www.olfart.com

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Let me know if you get an answer…interested too. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Can anyone tell me when and where are the 1998 East Coast wholesale dealer trade shows rumrunner

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Question:

Always wondered if you got what you paid for?

Back in 1991, I went to Canada’s Northwest Territories on a fly-in trip.  To research it, I called the NWT tourism bureau.  They were able to give me quite a bit of valuable info on winners and losers in the fly-in fishing biz.  My choice (one of her recommendations) was great and I will go back to NWT as soon as I can afford it. Peter

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some of the people who have gone on guided trips in BC have done extremely well – limited out for Salmon, Halibut & cod as well as a big haul of shrimp and crab. Northwest Fishing Guides who have a lodge in Terrace BC take people out to the ocean or take them to freshwater fishing areas and are very successfull.  I have had very good reports on them. My pages have listings – Northwest and many other fishing guides, take a look – it won’t cost anything to look! Mo — British Columbia &  Western Canada Information at = http://www.cvnet.net/modrew/Index.htm ;o) delete "nospam" to e-mail me – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Always wondered if you got what you paid for? Back in 1991, I went to Canada’s Northwest Territories on a fly-in trip.  To research it, I called the NWT tourism bureau.  They were able to give me quite a bit of valuable info on winners and losers in the fly-in fishing biz.  My choice (one of her recommendations) was great and I will go back to NWT as soon as I can afford it. Peter

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some of the people who have gone on guided trips in BC have done extremely well – limited out for Salmon, Halibut & cod as well as a big haul of shrimp and crab.

[snip] Fly-fishing for shrimp and crab? Shouldn’t this be in the "Strange Fish On The Fly" thread? ;^)

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Always wondered if you got what you paid for?

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Always wondered if you got what you paid for?

Sometimes it’s better than you imagined it could be.  Other times you can be disappointed and once in a while, you can feel absolutely cheated.  It pays to do research and check references.

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Question:

i will be near the home of orvis next weekend and don’t have much of a clue. whats a good way to get started ? instructions? or just wing it?   P.S. what flies should I use if i wing it?

Mark, Good questions.  How quickly do you learn? quick….then you can probably just wing it…if not then maybe lessons are not a bad idea.  Most folks benefit from a lesson….reading a book like the LL Bean Fly Fishing Handbook by Whitlock would help. If you are more visually inclined then maybe the Jack Dennis video is better for you. Flies to use now include the elk hair caddis, prince nymphs, white millers, beadhead nymphs, and Adams dries.  This is just the tip of the iceberg so to speak.  I am happy to answer any questions that may arise for you.  Best of luck. James Ehlers Underhill, Vermont Uncle Jammer’s Guide Service Vermont Fly Fishing, Hunting, River and Woodland Outings http://pobox.com/~uncle

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i will be near the home of orvis next weekend and don’t have much of a clue. whats a good way to get started ? instructions? or just wing it?    P.S. what flies should I use if i wing it?

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Question:

I fish in Mexico now and then around Rocky Point, in the upper Sea of Cortez. My wife and I like wading and casting to sea trout and pompano but the last two trips my wife stepped on a sting ray, which really put a damper on the rest of our fishing (her’s and mine). I’m curious to know how others have solved this problem.  I’m looking at Cabella’s flats wading bootie.  It seems like it protects the bottom of your foot and your toes but a big sting ray could still whack your upper foot and ankle (yeeeouch!). Any ideas?

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I fish in Mexico now and then around Rocky Point, in the upper Sea of Cortez. My wife and I like wading and casting to sea trout and pompano but the last two trips my wife stepped on a sting ray, which really put a damper on the rest of our fishing (her’s and mine). I’m curious to know how others have solved this problem.  I’m looking at Cabella’s flats wading bootie.  It seems like it protects the bottom of your foot and your toes but a big sting ray could still whack your upper foot and ankle (yeeeouch!). Any ideas?

 I have never seen or heard of anything that you can put on your feet short of steel shoes that will stop a ray’s point from going through your foot when you step on them.  The best way to avoid stingrays when you are in the area is to shuffle your feet instead of picking them up and stepping around like you normally would.  I learned this when I used to dive.  You never stepped down onto sand without fluttering your feet first.   When you walk in areas that have rays just shuffle your feet (which will leave a mud trail behind you) and it will scare the rays away before you step on them.  If there is a current, make sure you are walking into the current so the mud goes behind you instead of in front of you.  Rays are not hostile and will not attack you, but they hide themselves in the sand and can put that barb onto any part of their back that you step on in an instant.  Not a lot of fun and they are difficult to spot when so hidden.  The neoprene boots offered by Orvis, Cabela’s, Simm’s, Glacier Glove, etc. will not protect you from this problem.  Lazy feet will protect you.  No need to buy anything, just change your habits when you *think* rays are in the area.                            Hope this helps,                                     Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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Thanks, Dan, for your post regardng sting ray proof wading shoes.  I wish the news was better.  I’m sure your’e right that rays can poke though the neoprene part of flats booties.  But what about the rubber sole and the rubber part over the toes and top of the foot?   Interestingly, both of my wife’s stings were on her big toe (ouch!)  Seems like something as hard as tennis shoe rubber ought to top ‘em.  These are pretty small rays, maybe as big you our outstreached hand and fingers. Let me know what you think. Thanks again.

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Thanks, Dan, for your post regardng sting ray proof wading shoes.  I wish the news was better.  I’m sure your’e right that rays can poke though the neoprene part of flats booties.  But what about the rubber sole and the rubber part over the toes and top of the foot?   Interestingly, both of my wife’s stings were on her big toe (ouch!)  Seems like something as hard as tennis shoe rubber ought to top ‘em.  These are pretty small rays, maybe as big you our outstreached hand and fingers.

It’s possible it might stop such a small ray.  Never seen one that size.  The ones I’ve had experience with were about 3 feet wide across the wingtips and it wouldn’t even slow them down.  They put the barb through the top of the much harder rubber swim fins like it was butter and then went though the diver’s foot besides. One diver wasn’t so lucky and the barb missed the top of his foot slicing his leg open instead.  Not a pretty sight.  This happened while diving around the Santa Barbara Channel Islands (Anacapa & Santa Cruz Islands).  Convinced me to practice the "lazy foot" method in any area sting rays might be found.                                       Good Fishing,                                             Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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I agree with your ‘lazy foot’ recommendation. I’m not sure if that is why I haven’t been stung but am going to keep it up anyway. Charlie…

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I fish in Mexico now and then around Rocky Point, in the upper Sea of Cortez. My wife and I like wading and casting to sea trout and pompano but the last two trips my wife stepped on a sting ray, which really put a damper on the rest of our fishing (her’s and mine). I’m curious to know how others have solved this problem.  I’m looking at Cabella’s flats wading bootie.  It seems like it protects the bottom of your foot and your toes but a big sting ray could still whack your upper foot and ankle (yeeeouch!). Any ideas?

I heard they wade in the Texas gulf with some kind of shin guards. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I fish in Mexico now and then around Rocky Point, in the upper Sea of Cortez. My wife and I like wading and casting to sea trout and pompano but the last two trips my wife stepped on a sting ray, which really put a damper on the rest of our fishing (her’s and mine). I’m curious to know how others have solved this problem.  I’m looking at Cabella’s flats wading bootie.  It seems like it protects the bottom of your foot and your toes but a big sting ray could still whack your upper foot and ankle (yeeeouch!). Any ideas? I heard they wade in the Texas gulf with some kind of shin guards. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Down here in Texas we call them land-mines. The shuffle step works just fine but if you are really worried they do make a hard plastic guard which wraps around your leg and rests on top of your shoe. I think the idea came from snake chaps used by folks in rattlesnake country. RAT

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I fish in Mexico now and then around Rocky Point, in the upper Sea of Cortez. My wife and I like wading and casting to sea trout and pompano but the last two trips my wife stepped on a sting ray, which really put a damper on the rest of our fishing (her’s and mine). I’m curious to know how others have solved this problem.  I’m looking at Cabella’s flats wading bootie.  It seems like it protects the bottom of your foot and your toes but a big sting ray could still whack your upper foot and ankle (yeeeouch!). Any ideas? I heard they wade in the Texas gulf with some kind of shin guards. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Down in Texas we do have shin guards for wading. But the best way is to shuffle your feet. A ray is prone to thinking that anything bumping it is probably another ray, but anything stepping on it is probably something out to, well, step on it! BTW, a friend of mine had shin guards on and was hit in the back of the calf. Shin guards now cover front and back of leg.

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Question:

I’m canoing the Bowron Lake circuit next week and I don’t know what kind of fish I will find – trout, walleye, or northern pike?  Somebody please give me some advice on what to bring and what I’ll find.  Thanks…

Trout. — Isaac Lake President – Recreational Canoeing Association of British Columbia Master Instructor

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Mountain House and Alpenlite are the lures most likely to supply a decent meal on the Bowron Lakes.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m canoing the Bowron Lake circuit next week and I don’t know what kind of fish I will find – trout, walleye, or northern pike?  Somebody please The fishing is particularly good in June, in fact.  Mostly trout, including big lake trout down deep and some amazing rainbows.  Also a few whitefish.  Try paddling slow with  a white apex spoon about 3 inches long, down deep with about 2 ounces of weight. Fly fishing also works in close to shores. The guy who said to try freeze dried because its a park doesn’t know what he’s talking about.  Just make sure to get a fresh water licence from any sporting goods store and follow the regulations they give you.  Basically, 12 inch minimum. Dan Burnett Vancouver, B.C., Canada Tel: 604-691-7506  Fax:604-688-2827

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I’m canoing the Bowron Lake circuit next week and I don’t know what kind of fish I will find – trout, walleye, or northern pike?  Somebody please

The fishing is particularly good in June, in fact.  Mostly trout, including big lake trout down deep and some amazing rainbows.  Also a few whitefish.  Try paddling slow with  a white apex spoon about 3 inches long, down deep with about 2 ounces of weight. Fly fishing also works in close to shores. The guy who said to try freeze dried because its a park doesn’t know what he’s talking about.  Just make sure to get a fresh water licence from any sporting goods store and follow the regulations they give you.  Basically, 12 inch minimum. Dan Burnett Vancouver, B.C., Canada Tel: 604-691-7506  Fax:604-688-2827

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I’m canoing the Bowron Lake circuit next week and I don’t know what kind of fish I will find – trout, walleye, or northern pike?  Somebody please give me some advice on what to bring and what I’ll find.  Thanks…

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I’m canoing the Bowron Lake circuit next week and I don’t know what kind of fish I will find – trout, walleye, or northern pike?  Somebody please

Bring freeze dried- it’s a park. ian iGIVE ME Some advice on what to bring and what I’ll find.  Thanks…

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