Question:

contact Marianne Woodcox of Venture Guiding. email Marianne lives in Kitimat and guides on the river.  you can also post your question at: http://www.anglingbc.com/discussion/index.html Marianne frequents this board. Tell her I referred you. RalphH – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I will be flyfishing the Skeena River system and the Kitimat River in British Columbia August 7-16.  Can anyone recommend flies or specific tributaries or other water in the Smithers to Terrace areas? Thanks in advance.  Please feel free to respond off list. Stack Scoville Remove "SPAM" to e-mail "If I have been able to see over the horizon, it is because I have stood on the shoulders of giants," Sir Isaac Newton

Response:

I fished the area last October, went for Steelhead. Consider trying the Copper river (trib of Skeena just upstream from Terrace). It had the best run of Steelhead yet is fairly crowded as it is a ’smaller’ river than the others. Be advised that the Kitimat does not have a summer run of Steelies, just a winter run (if, in fact, you are going for Steelhead) which our "guide" (so-called, believe me) told us AFTER we were on the river. Purple was our best color, yet I can’t give you specific fly names for that area. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana http://www.montana.com/dno/dno.htm 406-626-4022

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I will be flyfishing the Skeena River system and the Kitimat River in British Columbia August 7-16.  Can anyone recommend flies or specific tributaries or other water in the Smithers to Terrace areas? Thanks in advance.  Please feel free to respond off list. Stack Scoville Remove "SPAM" to e-mail "If I have been able to see over the horizon, it is because I have stood on the shoulders of giants," Sir Isaac Newton

Response:

I will be flyfishing the Skeena River system and the Kitimat River in British Columbia August 7-16.  Can anyone recommend flies or specific tributaries or other water in the Smithers to Terrace areas? Thanks in advance.  Please feel free to respond off list. Stack Scoville Remove "SPAM" to e-mail "If I have been able to see over the horizon, it is because I have stood on the shoulders of giants," Sir Isaac Newton

Response:

Question:

Hi,  whats a good fly for stocked rainbow trout in a small lake about 15 feet deep? I’d appreciate any info I can get.  Thanx.

Response:

Where would i find some information on this fly at? do you have a picture of it?  Thanx.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi,  whats a good fly for stocked rainbow trout in a small lake about 15 feet deep? I’d appreciate any info I can get.  Thanx. Niblet Fly ought to do it…

Response:

Hi,  whats a good fly for stocked rainbow trout in a small lake about 15 feet deep? I’d appreciate any info I can get.  Thanx.

Niblet Fly ought to do it…

Response:

are you fishing the surface or subsurface, I like to use floatant on hares ear nymphs and strip it in the surface film  or use beadheads subsurface. Good dry’s are ones that can be skimmed over the surface without sinking or twisting the line, caddis drys are good as are renagades. Bushy wulffs are great for sight and for trout that will pounce on whatever they see. Wolly buggers are a favorite for many, I would use small patterns w/ black being a common color. Many use a bushy dry fly w/ a small nymph dropper usually a midge larva or or smalll beadhead 16-20.  this can be real fun the fish may be attracted by the dry but hit the dropper, just use a foot or two of 5 or 6x tippet and thie it directly to the bend of the bushy dry patterns hook, just make sure you check for breaking stregnth. The dry is a strike indicator for the nymph but this will tell you just how active the fish are toward big drys. If you get no hits on the dry change it if none on the nymph change that it can take out some of the problem solving on what they want because lets face it stockers can be fussy too.  : ]        

Response:

Niblet Fly ought to do it…

ROFLOL! bc.

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aka the Golden Terrestrial. Steve Zimmerman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi,  whats a good fly for stocked rainbow trout in a small lake about 15 feet deep? I’d appreciate any info I can get.  Thanx. Niblet Fly ought to do it…

Response:

For your question of what type of fly to use ( stocked trout ), I have  had the best luck using a bead head caddis    -**** Posted from RemarQ, http://www.remarq.com/?a ****-  Search and Read Usenet Discussions in your Browser – FREE –

Response:

Question:

Http://www.miralex.com Price:                  Miralex Cream, 4 oz $120.00 US

Good grief!  And I just bought a 3.5-ounce tub of coal tar for US$10.77! – Dave W.

Response:

For $120.00 per 4 oz this stuff better come with company stock too

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Not to mention my personal aide to apply it too LOLLOLOL – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – For $120.00 per 4 oz this stuff better come with company stock too

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David, David,   did someone do something terrible to you once.  Very negative.

I’m only negative about unproven therapies which have advertising that is purposefully vague about the active ingredients.  The term ’snake oil’ comes to mind. But, maybe you have some points there.  Are you sure it looks like poison ivy?

No, but that’s why I prefaced my remark with "I’m no botanist." And hemlock might not be bad, after all the poison in a bee sting is supposed to help "cure" arthritis.

Is it arthritis now?  Last I heard of bee sting therapy it was for MS.  And shortly after going to an MS bee sting fundraiser, I read that a controlled study had been done which said the stings didn’t do a thing except send some people into shock.  Maybe someone. okay maybe me should ask the miralex people what is in the stuff using the allergy thing a reason for asking. good idea David.  I’ll let you know what happens.

You shouldn’t need a reason.  If they’re at all ethical, they’ll tell you.  Don’t you have containers of the stuff? Aren’t the ingredients right on the labels?!?! – Dave W.

Response:

I went to the website for this product,and let me tell you it AINT CHEAP,but then again,compared to some meds we’ve tried I suppose its Ok If yoy want to know more about it go here Http://www.miralex.com Heres the ingred:Doesnt really say,just says Plant substances Price:                  Miralex Cream, 4 oz $120.00 US                  Miralex Cream, 1/2 oz $29.99 US                  Miralex Shampoo, 4 oz $9.95 US                                                               * – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I first posted you guys about three weeks ago (my first post) about miralex cream and some other stuff. Mark, could you post pricing, size availability and ingredients? Thanks.

Response:

… The literature claims that the product is made from a natural plant substance.  I beleive it is a Canadian Doctor in Vancouver that is selling the stuff. Could be wrong though. (wouldn’t be the first time). Anyway, if you want more information they are on the net at www.miralex.com or toll free at 1-888-215-6449 toll free from the USA or Canada and if you are from outside North America call 1-604-731-7238.   What do you think?  Let me know.

I’m no botanist, but why was my first reaction to the plant pictured on the web site’s home page "hey, that’s poison ivy!"? Anyway, since you actually have some of this stuff, what is listed on the containers as ingredients?  I couldn’t find anything but the vague "natural plant substance" remarks on the web site.  People have allergies and other conditions that preclude them from using certain substances, and should be able to find out prior to losing money to "shipping and handling charges" that aren’t covered in money-back guarantees. Not only that, but everything in hemlock is a "natural plant substance," but you won’t find me using it to clear my psoriasis. And Miralex has got to have the *worst* testimonials section I’ve ever seen.  They don’t even try to make them sound more real and personal by putting initials and towns afterwards (for example, "This is great!" – S.D. from Walla Walla, WA), not that doing so makes testimonials any more valid of a "proof" that the stuff works.  And this one in particular sounds like they took their own marketing slogans and put them inside double-quotes:  ["The positive effects of Miralex were visible within 48 hours of the initial use. 90% of all lesions had disappeared within 7 days with only one recurrence from that group. Its lack of smell and color makes it less embarrassing to use." Thank you !!!]  I find it interesting the ‘thank you’ part didn’t make it inside the quotes, too. – Dave W.

Response:

The cream costs 29.95 US$  for a 1/2 oz jar and 120 US$ (i think) for a 4 oz jar.  The pamphlet is at home and I am leaving work to go to a fly fishing meeting, so thought I would message you now.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I first posted you guys about three weeks ago (my first post) about miralex cream and some other stuff. Mark, could you post pricing, size availability and ingredients? Thanks.

Response:

David, David,   did someone do something terrible to you once.  Very negative.  But, maybe you have some points there.  Are you sure it looks like poison ivy?  And hemlock might not be bad, after all the poison in a bee sting is supposed to help "cure" arthritis.   Maybe someone. okay maybe me should ask the miralex people what is in the stuff using the allergy thing a reason for asking. good idea David.  I’ll let you know what happens. Remember, "positive waves man, positive waves."  see ya – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – … The literature claims that the product is made from a natural plant substance.  I beleive it is a Canadian Doctor in Vancouver that is selling the stuff. Could be wrong though. (wouldn’t be the first time). Anyway, if you want more information they are on the net at www.miralex.com or toll free at 1-888-215-6449 toll free from the USA or Canada and if you are from outside North America call 1-604-731-7238. What do you think?  Let me know. pictured on the web site’s home page "hey, that’s poison ivy!"? listed on the containers as ingredients?  I couldn’t find

"natural plant substance" remarks on  People have allergies and other conditions that preclude them from using certain substances,

 but everything in hemlock is a "natural plant substance," but you won’t find me using it to clear my psoriasis.

Dave W.

Response:

I first posted you guys about three weeks ago (my first post) about miralex cream and some other stuff.  

Mark, could you post pricing, size availability and ingredients? Thanks.

Response:

I first posted you guys about three weeks ago (my first post) about miralex cream and some other stuff.  Well, I was visiting a doctor, not a derm (don’t go to them anymore) and he noticed my p.  He said his brother in law had p and used this miralex cream and it cleared it up. Said he had a sample somewhere but could not find it.  He gave me some literature on it and said he would look for the sample. That it when I posted you.  About a week later he called and said he had found the sample.  I picked it up and started using it.  That was one week ago.  So far very good results.  Some of the smaller spots have disappeared. The largest area  extended from my ankle to my knee, completly encircled my leg.  It had several large scaly areas and the rest was red (as you all know) Well, after one week, no scales, no red. My leg has returned to white. Eureka!  The sample was a one ounce jar ( if you can call that small a sample a jar).  In the Vancouver Sun last week there was an add giving away free 1/2 ounce samples.  I immediately ordered one and had two friends order some for me also.  Naughty me!.  So, I how have 21/2 ounces of the stuff, except what I have used to date.  Also the patches on my elbows are gone. and the stubborn ones on my knuckles are going(three down and two to go)  The literature claims that the product is made from a natural plant substance.  I beleive it is a Canadian Doctor in Vancouver that is selling the stuff. Could be wrong though. (wouldn’t be the first time). Anyway, if you want more information they are on the net at www.miralex.com or toll free at 1-888-215-6449 toll free from the USA or Canada and if you are from outside North America call 1-604-731-7238.   What do you think?  Let me know.  I will keep you posted (I’ll try for weekly) on how the treatment is going.  Can’t wait for summer. By the way, I have been reading about you guys that are emabarressed to go outside with your p.  That used to bother me to, it still does, but about 10 years ago, I said "the hell with it".  I wear shorts and t-shirts all summer, go to the beach in a bathing suit, and it fat guys like me can wear a bathing suit, then you should not be concerned about your P.  Anyway, get over the embarrassment and just do it.  The extra sunshine and fresh air can only help your P anyway. So Long for now and  Keep your stick on the ice. Bye

Response:

Question:

Sure its early!  Everybody else its still working off the holidays…. Anybody with nformation drop a note. Who’s up for some flyfishing afterwards? Ciao! Blair

Response:

Sure its early!  Everybody else its still working off the holidays…. Anybody with nformation drop a note. Who’s up for some flyfishing afterwards? Ciao! Blair

We have a snall US and Canadian contingent going down there for the race. Training has been quite interesting for me over the winter months (I don’t know if I can put myself up to this again!). I think there is one person in our contingent who might bring the flyfishing gear. As for me, I don’t know if flyfishing is up my alley…bungee jumping is more like it! See you down there.                           |26      | IMC’96: 10:36:37          |   Fe   |   IMNZ, IMC ‘99 IMC’97: 10:42:53          |        |                  "THE BEST ELEMENT OF RACING"

Response:

Sure its early!  Everybody else its still working off the holidays…. Anybody with nformation drop a note. Who’s up for some flyfishing afterwards? Ciao! Blair We have a snall US and Canadian contingent going down there for the race. Training has been quite interesting for me over the winter months (I don’t know if I can put myself up to this again!). I think there is one person in our contingent who might bring the flyfishing gear. As for me, I don’t know if

I’m not a flyfisherman, so take this with a grain of salt.  I’m pretty certain that you can hire all the gear form the fishing guides/boatmen at Taupo.  Seems crazy to lug even more gear across the world!  Though, I suppose a rod could go in the bike box Jeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – flyfishing is up my alley…bungee jumping is more like it! See you down there.                           |26      | IMC’96: 10:36:37          |   Fe   |   IMNZ, IMC ‘99 IMC’97: 10:42:53          |        |                  "THE BEST ELEMENT OF RACING"

Response:

Question:

<<I’m about to start building my second rod, but I seem to have forgotten just about everything I learned last time.. The cork handle (complete set) is a bit loose, already got the squeaks. (Damn thing I used for expanding the hole in the cork, wasn’t 100% aligned with the tapering of the blank, so the butt section of the cork is too big) Is (a little bit of) masking tape under the cork handle ok? I think I applied some tape at the first rod, but that St.Criox piece of  #*!#/&^# broke before any side effects was given reasonable time to appear.. I do however remember that mask tape was not a great idea for assembling the parts of the pacific bay reel handle.. Mask tape did work well for mounting the reel handle on the blank, though. — Christian Figenschou – Christian, using masking tape really isn’t a great idea when you build rods. The reason is that over a short period of time, that tape compresses down flat and you still end up with a loose handle or reel seat.  This in turn can put stress on the blank and cause it to weaken eventually resulting in a broken blank.   I have only built a few rods but my mentor (who was featured on the cover of Fly Fishing Magazine for his rod work) taught me to never use masking tape.  If the handle gets botched then invest in another $16 for a new cork handle and redrill it. Mike

Response:

I’m about to start building my second rod, but I seem to have forgotten just about everything I learned last time.. The cork handle (complete set) is a bit loose, already got the squeaks. (Damn thing I used for expanding the hole in the cork, wasn’t 100% aligned with the tapering of the blank, so the butt section of the cork is too big) Is (a little bit of) masking tape under the cork handle ok?

Since this is only going to be a thin layer of masking tape I don’t think you’ll run into any problem. I would apply the tape really tightly if you have to use more than one winding or layer and I would saturate it really well with the glue you plan to use.I’ve said it before on this group: The company U 40 makes a superb 2 component glue for rod building (handle and grip) which forms a paste, that does not flow like your typical 2 component epoxy glue. If you used that you could apply a thick layer of this paste and wouldn’t even need to build up the difference with masking tape. Hope this helps, Tom.

Response:

using tape is fine as long as you are using a paste glue not a liquid glue like flex coat just make sure you find all the gaps dm

Response:

using tape is fine as long as you are using a paste glue not a liquid glue like flex coat just make sure you find all the gaps dm

I’ve used masking tape under the reel seats on about a half dozen rods, both fly and spinning, and also under a couple of the handles with no problem….yet. I use a 2-part epoxy that we use for setting fasteners etc in the construction industry. It’s the kind that’s in the 2-compartment dispesnsing tube and mixes in the tip. Very nice stuff. There’s many of you who have made many many more rods than me but, I’d tend to say the adhesive you use is a lot more important than if you put tape under the handle/seat. And, like dm says, make sure you fill all the gaps! pete

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m about to start building my second rod, but I seem to have forgotten just about everything I learned last time.. The cork handle (complete set) is a bit loose, already got the squeaks. (Damn thing I used for expanding the hole in the cork, wasn’t 100% aligned with the tapering of the blank, so the butt section of the cork is too big) Is (a little bit of) masking tape under the cork handle ok? I think I applied some tape at the first rod, but that St.Criox piece of  #*!#/&^# broke before any side effects was given reasonable time to appear.. I do however remember that mask tape was not a great idea for assembling the parts of the pacific bay reel handle.. Mask tape did work well for mounting the reel handle on the blank, though. — Christian Figenschou – http://home.sol.no/figen/

I’ve only built two rods, and I was tought to use masking tape to build up the blank under the handle. The 1/2 inch tape is applied in segments with about 1/2 inch spacing between segments. A liberal application of Rod Builders Epoxy results in a tight fitting handle that won’t loosen up. Regards, Chuck

Response:

I regularly use masking tape under cork handles when I am overly zealous about the filing. I don’t space the tape however, I just build the entire blank area up that is too narrow for the handle. I really saturate it with epoxy. I’ve found that if you use anything besides the five minute epoxy, that it penetrates the tape sufficiently to make it waterproof and the epoxy seems to actually bond to the rod shaft. I take no particular care when fishing with my rods and the handles get immersed frequently with no problems. — Hope you always have the time to go fishing! Jerry in Lodi Al & Jerry’s Excellent Adventures http://www.softcom.net/users/dorado Al & Jerry’s Fishing Forum http://pluto.beseen.com/boardroom/m/19629

Response:

I’ve built 6 rods using very thick masking tape under the reel seat. Like others say, keep the tape spaced and use an epoxy liberally. You will not have any problems other then keeping the epoxy on the inside. Have rubbing alcohle or mineral oil handy for immediate cleanup. Don’t want to leave any on the reel seat to screw up the threads of the lock down. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m about to start building my second rod, but I seem to have forgotten just about everything I learned last time.. The cork handle (complete set) is a bit loose, already got the squeaks. (Damn thing I used for expanding the hole in the cork, wasn’t 100% aligned with the tapering of the blank, so the butt section of the cork is too big) Is (a little bit of) masking tape under the cork handle ok? Since this is only going to be a thin layer of masking tape I don’t think you’ll run into any problem. I would apply the tape really tightly if you have to use more than one winding or layer and I would saturate it really well with the glue you plan to use.I’ve said it before on this group: The company U 40 makes a superb 2 component glue for rod building (handle and grip) which forms a paste, that does not flow like your typical 2 component epoxy glue. If you used that you could apply a thick layer of this paste and wouldn’t even need to build up the difference with masking tape. Hope this helps, Tom.

Response:

To keep that epoxy off the reel seat and out of the threads, just wrap masking tape around the outside of the reel seat too.  Then, before the epoxy dries, peel the masking tape off, along with any epoxy that squeezed out. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve built 6 rods using very thick masking tape under the reel seat. Like others say, keep the tape spaced and use an epoxy liberally. You will not have any problems other then keeping the epoxy on the inside. Have rubbing alcohle or mineral oil handy for immediate cleanup. Don’t want to leave any on the reel seat to screw up the threads of the lock down. I’m about to start building my second rod, but I seem to have forgotten just about everything I learned last time.. The cork handle (complete set) is a bit loose, already got the squeaks. (Damn thing I used for expanding the hole in the cork, wasn’t 100% aligned with the tapering of the blank, so the butt section of the cork is too big) Is (a little bit of) masking tape under the cork handle ok? Since this is only going to be a thin layer of masking tape I don’t think you’ll run into any problem. I would apply the tape really tightly if you have to use more than one winding or layer and I would saturate it really well with the glue you plan to use.I’ve said it before on this group: The company U 40 makes a superb 2 component glue for rod building (handle and grip) which forms a paste, that does not flow like your typical 2 component epoxy glue. If you used that you could apply a thick layer of this paste and wouldn’t even need to build up the difference with masking tape. Hope this helps, Tom.

Response:

I’m about to start building my second rod, but I seem to have forgotten just about everything I learned last time.. The cork handle (complete set) is a bit loose, already got the squeaks. (Damn thing I used for expanding the hole in the cork, wasn’t 100% aligned with the tapering of the blank, so the butt section of the cork is too big) Is (a little bit of) masking tape under the cork handle ok? I think I applied some tape at the first rod, but that St.Criox piece of  #*!#/&^# broke before any side effects was given reasonable time to appear.. I do however remember that mask tape was not a great idea for assembling the parts of the pacific bay reel handle.. Mask tape did work well for mounting the reel handle on the blank, though. — Christian Figenschou – http://home.sol.no/figen/

Response:

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t know what you are flying but when flying my instructors Turbo Aztec, six full grown american people and topped off I can hold 15,000 on one engine, well, or as long as my leg holds out. cg It is most certainly feasible and is done all the time. Wether done single engine or twin is really no consideration. In some respects, a single may be better than a twin because in a twin you need to carry much more fuel to feed two engines. That second engine does not give you any more chances to remain airborne, if one should fail, until such a time that you are back down to normal weights. During the early phases of the flight you would be so heavy with fuel that one engine could not possibly keep you in the air. Reinhard

First off, I would have to see that to believe it. Secondly, to fly OAK-HNL in a Turbo Aztec (14 hrs plus 3 hrs reserve), you would carry a lot more weight in fuel than the load you described here. Reinhard

Response:

I have this fantasy of flying to one of them deserted SP islands (Robinson Crusoe Syndrome).  Has anyone tried this in a single engine airplane, is this feasible at all?  Which route would one take? Thanks, James The two longest legs are Oakland to Honolulu 2100 NM and from there you have another long leg, either HNL to Majuro, Marshall Islands, or HNL to Tarawa, Republic of Kiribati, the latter one being a good stop, but almost again as far as OAK-HNL. After that you can choose your legs more easily and they are considerably shorter.

You could also go up to Alaska, across and down through Russia, over to Japan and then on to the South Pacific.  It is a much longer journey, but no 2000 mile over water legs. (I wonder how far the jump to Palau would be, I’ve always wanted to go there…) Brian

Response:

First off, I would have to see that to believe it. Secondly, to fly OAK-HNL in a Turbo Aztec (14 hrs plus 3 hrs reserve), you would carry a lot more weight in fuel than the load you described here. Reinhard I only show from OAK to PHNL to be 2089 nm that would only be about 10 hrs in the air.

My rounded off 2100 NM was only a paltry 11 NM off from your very accurate 2089!! well within range 300 gal, 1800 lbs, but you would not be flying  more than 5 hours on one engine. cg

It is quite obvious to me that you are an armchair pilot who has never done anything like this before. Your numbers are all wrong, and I hope for your sake that you never try it. You would most certainly get your feet wet. It took me 13 hours in a Baron 58 and 15 in a Twin Bonanza. Your turbos in that Aztec would most likely do very little if anything for you since westbound to HNL most frequently you need to stay at 10K or below lest you catch the prevailing westerlies which are very strong at altitude. So you would do well to get 150K over the water. Reinhard

Response:

I only show from OAK to PHNL to be 2089 nm that would only be about 10 hrs in the air. well within range 300 gal, 1800 lbs, but you would not be flying  more than 5 hours on one engine.   cg First off, I would have to see that to believe it. Secondly, to fly OAK-HNL in a Turbo Aztec (14 hrs plus 3 hrs reserve), you would carry a lot more weight in fuel than the load you described here. Reinhard

Response:

First off, I would have to see that to believe it. Secondly, to fly OAK-HNL in a Turbo Aztec (14 hrs plus 3 hrs reserve), you would carry a lot more weight in fuel than the load you described here. Reinhard

I thought for IFR you only needed 45 min reserve.  – Doug  -  Kingfisher plans are here…Now, about that Garage… …cruising between 150 to 200 miles per hour… Greater cruising speeds are possible, but the size of the earth does not warrent greater speeds. -Igor Sikorsky in 1934

Response:

It doesn’t matter a great deal what the legal reserve is.  Winds over the Pacific on that flight are usually against you.  If you go high at all to minimize fuel consumption the head winds increase.  The Aztec is NOT a fast airplane for its fuel consumption.   To fly that leg without considerably MORE than a 45 minute reserve, is to seriously invite wet feet.  The 3  hour reserve is not bad.  The 14 hours is quite optimistic, in my opinion.  I think I would use something like 18 hours for flight planning purposes in an Aztec.  Then I would add another three hours for reserve.  That looks like about 21 hours of fuel. I think you could get it in, but not without some pretty special ferry tanks!   John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – First off, I would have to see that to believe it. Secondly, to fly OAK-HNL in a Turbo Aztec (14 hrs plus 3 hrs reserve), you would carry a lot more weight in fuel than the load you described here. Reinhard I thought for IFR you only needed 45 min reserve.  – Doug  -  Kingfisher plans are here…Now, about that Garage… …cruising between 150 to 200 miles per hour… Greater cruising speeds are possible, but the size of the earth does not warrent greater speeds. -Igor Sikorsky in 1934

Response:

OK, so its been done before in factory planes, how about homebuilts?  I am considering the KR2, which has an advertised range of 1600sm, can this be extended with additional tanks to the 2100nm required to fly to HNL? James – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have this fantasy of flying to one of them deserted SP islands (Robinson Crusoe Syndrome).  Has anyone tried this in a single engine airplane, is this feasible at all?  Which route would one take? Thanks, James James, It is most certainly feasible and is done all the time. Wether done single engine or twin is really no consideration. In some respects, a single may be better than a twin because in a twin you need to carry much more fuel to feed two engines. That second engine does not give you any more chances to remain airborne, if one should fail, until such a time that you are back down to normal weights. During the early phases of the flight you would be so heavy with fuel that one engine could not possibly keep you in the air. The two longest legs are Oakland to Honolulu 2100 NM and from there you have another long leg, either HNL to Majuro, Marshall Islands, or HNL to Tarawa, Republic of Kiribati, the latter one being a good stop, but almost again as far as OAK-HNL. After that you can choose your legs more easily and they are considerably shorter. Reinhard

Response:

What did you assume that I would try it without any  preflight planning?? cg It is quite obvious to me that you are an armchair pilot who has never done anything like this before. Your numbers are all wrong, and I hope for your sake that you never try it. You would most certainly get your feet wet. It took me 13 hours in a Baron 58 and 15 in a Twin Bonanza. Your turbos in that Aztec would most likely do very little if anything for you since westbound to HNL most frequently you need to stay at 10K or below lest you catch the prevailing westerlies which are very strong at altitude. So you would do well to get 150K over the water. Reinhard

Response:

First off, I would have to see that to believe it. Secondly, to fly OAK-HNL in a Turbo Aztec (14 hrs plus 3 hrs reserve), you would carry a lot more weight in fuel than the load you described here. Reinhard I thought for IFR you only needed 45 min reserve.  – Doug  -  

Surely you jest, Doug. Kidding aside, the special flight permit that you get for the overload condition and he temporary fuel tank installation requires you calculate in a 3 hour reserve on transoceanic flights. Things can happen while on such a long flight; the forecast winds can turn out different, you might have equipment problems that cause you to burn more fuel for less airspeed than you had planned, etc. I have had several a couple of occasions when I was glad for the extra fuel. Remember, there is only one time when you can have too much fuel: when you are on fire. Reinhard

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It doesn’t matter a great deal what the legal reserve is.  Winds over the Pacific on that flight are usually against you.  If you go high at all to minimize fuel consumption the head winds increase.  The Aztec is NOT a fast airplane for its fuel consumption.   To fly that leg without considerably MORE than a 45 minute reserve, is to seriously invite wet feet.  The 3  hour reserve is not bad.  The 14 hours is quite optimistic, in my opinion.  I think I would use something like 18 hours for flight planning purposes in an Aztec.  Then I would add another three hours for reserve.  That looks like about 21 hours of fuel. I think you could get it in, but not without some pretty special ferry tanks!  

How do you get 21 hours of fuel into an Aztec?  I’m not familiar with the type, but at an avg fuel burn of 8-10 GPH – we’re talking about 168-210 gals. Where would you put it all?  Another question springs to mind – how do you add oil in flight? I’ve seen club aircraft burn as much as a 1/2 qt/hr. The sump would be bone dry after 21 hrs with no additional oil.

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I think I would use something like 18 hours for flight planning purposes in an Aztec.  Then I would add another three hours for reserve.  That looks like about 21 hours of fuel. I think you could get it in, but not without some pretty special ferry tanks! How do you get 21 hours of fuel into an Aztec?  I’m not familiar with the type, but at an avg fuel burn of 8-10 GPH – we’re talking about 168-210 gals. Where would you put it all?  Another question springs to mind – how do you add oil in flight? I’ve seen club aircraft burn as much as a 1/2 qt/hr. The sump would be bone dry after 21 hrs with no additional oil.

If you stay below 10k feet, you will frequently find winds that are not too bad. You often find about 10 knots of help down low.. Under no circumstances would I start out with ANY headwind on that leg. Then you could make HNL in about 14-15 hrs in an Aztec. Taking a Baron to Fiji last year, I flew at 6K feet to HNL and did quite well. (13 hrs.) Fitting all that fuel into the plane is really not so difficult. There are professional tanking outfits that install ferry tanks in the cabin in a day. You are certainly correct when you adress the oil issue. It is absolutely essential that you know the oil consumption of your engines. And there is also a way to rig an oil replenishing setup to that you can add oil in flight. Reinhard

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OK, so its been done before in factory planes, how about homebuilts?  I am considering the KR2, which has an advertised range of 1600sm, can this be extended with additional tanks to the 2100nm required to fly to HNL? James

Well Jon Johanson has done it both ways (make that crossed the Pacific … ) in an RV-4 during his round the world trips. Check out his Web site at http://www.mag-net.educ.monash.edu.au/saaa/head.html. He has also published his autobio called "Aiming High", Wakefield Press, South Australia, ISBN 1 86254 424 7. Highly recommended reading for anyone building their own plane. Rgds JD   …… I’d rather be flying ….. John Duncan M.C.N.E.  PPL(A)  J.P.  AOPA(Aust)#42745 EAA#548147 J & J Network Services Pty Ltd P.O. Box 109 Minto N.S.W. 2566 Australia

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My tongue was firmly in cheek.  I don’t fly VFR without at least 1 hour reserve. — Doug  -  Kingfisher plans are here…Now, about that Garage… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It doesn’t matter a great deal what the legal reserve is.  Winds over the Pacific on that flight are usually against you.  If you go high at all to minimize fuel consumption the head winds increase.  The Aztec is NOT a fast airplane for its fuel consumption.   To fly that leg without considerably MORE than a 45 minute reserve, is to seriously invite wet feet.  The 3  hour reserve is not bad.  The 14 hours is quite optimistic, in my opinion.  I think I would use something like 18 hours for flight planning purposes in an Aztec.  Then I would add another three hours for reserve.  That looks like about 21 hours of fuel. I think you could get it in, but not without some pretty special ferry tanks!   John I thought for IFR you only needed 45 min reserve.  – Doug  -  Kingfisher plans are here…Now, about that Garage… …cruising between 150 to 200 miles per hour… Greater cruising speeds are possible, but the size of the earth does not warrent greater speeds. -Igor Sikorsky in 1934

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No idea about a KR2, but you might want to read Sport Aviation (past few issues) and look for the 2 part round the world story by the author and Burt Rutan, who flew their Long EZ’s around the world. Very informative (and nice pictures – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – OK, so its been done before in factory planes, how about homebuilts?  I am considering the KR2, which has an advertised range of 1600sm, can this be extended with additional tanks to the 2100nm required to fly to HNL? James

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – OK, so its been done before in factory planes, how about homebuilts?  I am considering the KR2, which has an advertised range of 1600sm, can this be extended with additional tanks to the 2100nm required to fly to HNL? James Well Jon Johanson has done it both ways (make that crossed the Pacific … ) in an RV-4 during his round the world trips. Check out his Web site at http://www.mag-net.educ.monash.edu.au/saaa/head.html. He has also published his autobio called "Aiming High", Wakefield Press, South Australia, ISBN 1 86254 424 7. Highly recommended reading for anyone building their own plane.

James, You are considering a monumental task here ol chap, this sought of feat requires a hell of a lot of homework and I would suggest you’re really stretching it in a KR-2. With a large amount of retro-fitting you could possibly carry out this adventure, however the stakes are extremely high! I would also endorse the above, ie read Jon Johannson’s book and while your doing that bare a thought for the planning both technically and enroute that goes into these voyages. You may also wish to contact the "Mick & Dick" of "Round the World Friendship Tour":- Sport Aviation Feb edition Pg 76. For a start, unless you’ve got heaps of "Bucks" behind you, just go build your A/C and enjoy flying it around the "States". Whilst I’ll admit, I don’t have an intermit knowledge of the KR-2 and its weight & balance etc, it is only small by any standards. Its payload excess does not go down well with the number crunching required when you consider such additions as fuel, extra redundancy systems req’d, and ESPECIALLY CONSIDER ENGINE RELIABLITY etc, etc. To say the least, 18 plus hours is a long time to spend in the close confines of a KR-2 cockpit, surrounded by custom built ferry tanks around your ears. I have two buddies that were involved in Ferry Flights across the Pacific in their younger days. One of them did get his feet wet mid Pacific (1200 Nm from nowhere & at night) when the nut on the Alternator pulley worked its way loose. Lucky for him he had spotted a fishing boat a couple of hours before and was able to back track and relocate it. All be it, he was now down to torch and compass. That was in a brand new production A/C as well. Glenn now does his long transcontinental flights the same way I do, the only way:-In style at 43,000 ft. James, whilst your challenge is a commendable one, the golden rule is to keep your feet dry. Best way to do that is travel the South Pacific the same way most of us do, In a 747, 767 etc, and don’t forget you can have the added advantage of sipping champagne or other adult beverages!! If you’re considering going on from HNL to other South Pacific destinations, then you have a hole heap more challenges in front of you. Regards Ray (Just my 2 cents worth) J.

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I don’t know what you are flying but when flying my instructors Turbo Aztec, six full grown american people and topped off I can hold 15,000 on one engine, well, or as long as my leg holds out. cg It is most certainly feasible and is done all the time. Wether done single engine or twin is really no consideration. In some respects, a single may be better than a twin because in a twin you need to carry much more fuel to feed two engines. That second engine does not give you any more chances to remain airborne, if one should fail, until such a time that you are back down to normal weights. During the early phases of the flight you would be so heavy with fuel that one engine could not possibly keep you in the air. Reinhard

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How do you get 21 hours of fuel into an Aztec?  I’m not familiar with the type, but at an avg fuel burn of 8-10 GPH – we’re talking about 168-210 gals. Where would you put it all?  Another question springs to mind – how do you add oil in flight? I’ve seen club aircraft burn as much as a 1/2 qt/hr. The sump would be bone dry after 21 hrs with no additional oil.

The Aztec would burn considerably more than 8-10 GPH.  Probably closer to 25 GPH.  So we are talking about over 500 gallons.  The Aztec is a rather slow twin with a pair of 250 HP flat engines.  It is Pipers upscale Apache, just as the Beech Baron is the high power version of the Travelair. John

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What is the availability of av-gas in Russia. I hear that it’s non-existant. D.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I think I would use something like 18 hours for flight planning purposes in an Aztec.  Then I would add another three hours for reserve.  That looks like about 21 hours of fuel. I think you could get it in, but not without some pretty special ferry tanks! How do you get 21 hours of fuel into an Aztec?  I’m not familiar with the type, but at an avg fuel burn of 8-10 GPH – we’re talking about 168-210 gals. Where would you put it all?  Another question springs to mind – how do you add oil in flight? I’ve seen club aircraft burn as much as a 1/2 qt/hr. The sump would be bone dry after 21 hrs with no additional oil. If you stay below 10k feet, you will frequently find winds that are not too bad. You often find about 10 knots of help down low.. Under no circumstances would I start out with ANY headwind on that leg. Then you could make HNL in about 14-15 hrs in an Aztec. Taking a Baron to Fiji last year, I flew at 6K feet to HNL and did quite well. (13 hrs.) Fitting all that fuel into the plane is really not so difficult. There are professional tanking outfits that install ferry tanks in the cabin in a day. You are certainly correct when you adress the oil issue. It is absolutely essential that you know the oil consumption of your engines. And there is also a way to rig an oil replenishing setup to that you can add oil in flight. Reinhard

Reinhard is exactly right.  You notice in the original post that I did mention that it would take some fancy ferry tanks to get the fuel in! When my airplane flew across the Atlantic from Brazil to Cornwall, they added a special fancy ferry tank.  A 50 gallon drum on chocks where the back seat goes, with a wobble pump to pump fuel up into the wing tank. They recommended that you run the wing tank down to less than a quarter full before pumping fuel up to it.  They said watch the gauges so you do not overfill it and pump fuel overboard.   The also recommended the long distance power setting of 1800 RPM and 23 inches of manifold pressure.  That was supposed to get the fuel consumption down to 14.7 gallons per hour.  That gave a little over eight hours in the air.  At that power setting, you get 100 knots! Still wouldn’t make Honolulu! John

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I have this fantasy of flying to one of them deserted SP islands (Robinson Crusoe Syndrome).  Has anyone tried this in a single engine airplane, is this feasible at all?  Which route would one take? Thanks, James

James, It is most certainly feasible and is done all the time. Wether done single engine or twin is really no consideration. In some respects, a single may be better than a twin because in a twin you need to carry much more fuel to feed two engines. That second engine does not give you any more chances to remain airborne, if one should fail, until such a time that you are back down to normal weights. During the early phases of the flight you would be so heavy with fuel that one engine could not possibly keep you in the air. The two longest legs are Oakland to Honolulu 2100 NM and from there you have another long leg, either HNL to Majuro, Marshall Islands, or HNL to Tarawa, Republic of Kiribati, the latter one being a good stop, but almost again as far as OAK-HNL. After that you can choose your legs more easily and they are considerably shorter. Reinhard

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I have this fantasy of flying to one of them deserted SP islands (Robinson Crusoe Syndrome).  Has anyone tried this in a single engine airplane, is this feasible at all?  Which route would one take? Thanks, James I think someone tried this in a twin.  Her name was Amelia something….. Sorrry, it was too easy to pass on  :-)

Like minds I guess, but I resisted.  Abacus.com has an add-on for MS Flight Simulator that follows her route.    It wasn’t/isn’t an easy flight. John J. Miller

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I have this fantasy of flying to one of them deserted SP islands (Robinson Crusoe Syndrome).  Has anyone tried this in a single engine airplane, is this feasible at all?  Which route would one take? Thanks, James

Da Plane, Boss, Da Plane! (sorry, just couldn’t help myself) John Galban====N4BQ (PA28-180)

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I have this fantasy of flying to one of them deserted SP islands (Robinson Crusoe Syndrome).  Has anyone tried this in a single engine airplane, is this feasible at all?  Which route would one take? Thanks, James

I think someone tried this in a twin.  Her name was Amelia something….. Sorrry, it was too easy to pass on  :-) Jeff Oslick

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I have this fantasy of flying to one of them deserted SP islands (Robinson Crusoe Syndrome).  Has anyone tried this in a single engine airplane, is this feasible at all?  Which route would one take? Thanks, James

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Check out http://www.calle.com/aviation/airports.cgi Allows you to specify departure, destination, range and speed, and displays a nice table and map of the results. Lots of material for dream flights… BTW you probably don’t want a totally deserted island; food, water, fuel, runway and women should be minimum requirements (the website allows you to specify 2 out of these 5 Eric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have this fantasy of flying to one of them deserted SP islands (Robinson Crusoe Syndrome).  Has anyone tried this in a single engine airplane, is this feasible at all?  Which route would one take? Thanks, James

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Question:

Hi, I am interested in fishing the Smith River in Virgina.  Are there any helpful flyshops in the Martinsville area? Also, what is the prefered tackle?  Any patterns that I should stock up on? Thanks, Jeff — Jeff Bailey

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Grew up there but I have not fished it in years. The best place for info is the Orvis shop in Roanoke, VA 540-345-3635 Tight Lines and Screeming Reels Phil

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Question:

I am looking for information on fishing the San Juan river in New Mexico during the month of November.  I,ve been told that it is a time to fish mostly nymphs, SJ worms and midges.  Looking for a guide and a place to stay.  Will mostl likely be there second weekend (Thur-Sun) in Nov.  How is the weather at that time of the year?  Do I need very warm clothing?  I indend to fish an Orvis Far & Fine 5wt., will that be enough rod, as I also have an Orvis Performer 6wt. Thanks Mike Recine

Mike, November is a great time to fish the San Juan.   Check out Abe’s for motel, and "Born and Raised" for a great guide (Abe’ son Tim). Phone #s are in the back of any fly fishing mag. Nymphs are the usual, however, a warm sunny day can give you a hatch in the early afternoon.  Again, check with the guide ahead of time to see what might be hatching in Nov. Weather will likely be cold in the mornings, and comfortable 50s/60s in the afternoons.  The river is in a canyon, so is protected from sun’s warming till mid-morning.  The wind following the canyons can be tough at times, especially if the temps are down.  Layers of clothing is key to being comfortable. A 5wt is fine and if you have an light touch, you can do it with a 4 wt. There are some large trout.  My biggest was 24" and I caught 6 22" in one afternoon – most on my 5, two on my 4. (I have not been able to repeat that outstanding afternoon yet, but the memory is still fresh) Enjoy ! Dee    

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I am looking for information on fishing the San Juan river in New Mexico during the month of November.  I,ve been told that it is a time to fish mostly nymphs, SJ worms and midges.  Looking for a guide and a place to stay.  Will mostl likely be there second weekend (Thur-Sun) in Nov.  How is the weather at that time of the year?  Do I need very warm clothing?  I indend to fish an Orvis Far & Fine 5wt., will that be enough rod, as I also have an Orvis Performer 6wt. Thanks Mike Recine

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You need waders year round in the San Juan. Water temp is around 50 degrees. 5mm neoprene.

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Some friends and I are going fishing on the San Juan the last week of June? Question: how cold is the San Juan at that time of year. I need to know to prepare  myself with waders, if necessary or just fish in shorts. And what is the ambient temp of the air during the day along the river? I need to decide on waders and what type, or just stick to shorts. Michael — Michael Paine Mit der Dummheit kampfen Gotter selbst vergebens.

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Question:

I fished the N. Fork Saturday and found only Smallmouth Bass. Really good ones, too, but no trout. Water was gin clear and warm.  I fished the Yankee Jim access east of Colfax.  Got buzzed by a Timber Ratltler, saw some homeless-types panning, and generally was disappointed. Am I selling this river short?  Is there beter action upriver around Mumford Bar, and if so, how is the access? It seems like it could be a good resource and I know a portion of the river has Wild Trout status. Any info would be greatly appreciated. John Wallace

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Hi John- The N.Fork American is a neat river. As you found out, there are some nice smallies out of Colfax. In the fall and early summer you’ll find rainbows and browns up and down the system as far as Lake Clementine. As the water warms the trout move upstream, into the springs, or into the deeper waters of the lake.      To get into consistant (small but plentiful) summer trout you’ll have to hike in at one of the trails near Royal Gorge or get permission to access the river at The Cedars just south of Donner Summit (drive down the dirt rd past Serene Lakes and ask at one of the cabins.    The timber rattle snake you saw is really a north pacific rattler. They do bite but generally go out of their way to avoid you. Don’t bother ‘em, they belong here (the browns and smallmouth don’t!).    Wild waters, Ralph Cutter —

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Question:

Greetings, So… we’re back from a great MTB camping trip out to a place called Capp’s Crossing.  Its about 14 Miles south of Hiway 50 just past Placerville in the Sierra National Forest in California.   Nice small camp site next to a running stream.  The camp site was well maintained and there was lots to do (Rock Climbing, Hiking, Swimming, Fly Fishing, MTBing, Strategic Naping, etc.) The trails in the area are generally usage maintained logging and 4WD road.  Some of the road haven’t been maintained in years, are over grown and make for a wild, rather technical run which includes running over downed logs of various sizes, deep slit tracks, erosion berms, rock gardens and a couple of drop-offs. Riding these trails was a blast but it was the first time I had encountered deep, deep slit.  This stuff was fine as talc and about 3 inches deep.  Just running straight through it  kicked up clouds of dust that coated everthing.  Riding in this stuff was a challenge.  It offers substancial rolling resistance such that rolling  into it at speed would catch you off guard and almost throw you. Anyway,  riding through this stuff felt like my backend was loose.  It would feel like it was sliding around, sideways.  My rear WTB ‘raptors did great on the climbs but my guess is that the tread pattern is optimized for climbing (duh!) and not for holding laterally (therefore, you slide).  Cornering was tough too.  I think I started getting better traction on corners when I would lean the bike way over thereby engaging the outside edging knobs.  The big trick was to stay in front so you could breath.  Otherwise you were riding in a dust storm. So you would exit the slit bed and run smack into a rock garden. Sometimes uphill, sometimes down.  Boulders ranged in size from marbles to softball.  To add to the challenge, the garden was rutted where other 4WD have driven.  That made staying on the line you chose very hard – but fun.  You had to change techniques quickly and keep up the speed lest you lose momentum, stop and be cursed by you riding buddy behind you (who can’t see you through the dust). Now with this combo of terrain I tried to keep my front pressure up at around 40 and my rear at 35 or so. Correct my if I’m wrong but for the slit you want lower TP for more tire surface area and for the rocks you want a higher TP to prevent snake-bites.  Snake-bites aside, is it generally better to run a lower TP? 35 and 30? Lower?  Too low?  Also, anyone have a experience with realy soft slit?  Tips on bike handling? ( While you at it any tips on bike handling on fire road gravel – you know, sharp, crushed rock over hard pan.  I alway get the feeling my tires are breaking traction cause the rock just rolls.) Thanx,                 _Marc Marc E. Strohwig                                Opinion? Mine, mine, mine!! System Architect SEI SIG                                           Compuserve: 70613.502   FAX: (510) 645-3096

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over downed logs of various sizes, deep slit tracks, erosion berms, … encountered deep, deep slit.  This stuff was fine as talc and about 3 … So you would exit the slit bed and run smack into a rock garden. … anyone have a experience with realy soft slit?  Tips on bike handling?

SILT. SILT. SILT. SILT. SILT. Slit: a long, narrow cut, tear or incision Silt: a sedimentary material composed of fine mineral particles (Sorry.  I don’t normally correct typos but when it is the subject of your message and you use it over and over again, it would be helpful if you spelled it right.  Same goes for the guy who wants "DISK BREAKS."  I think most of us would prefer to not break anything.) -Robin

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