Question:

I’m relatively new to fly casting and have a question regarding casting technique.  When I transition from backcast to forecast I often hear the fly and line cracking (poping really) like a whip when the fly reverses direction to go forward.  Is this normal?  I suspect that I’m not letting the line straighten behind me before casting forward; therefore, it’s just like cracking a whip.  The problem with waiting though seems to be that the line doesn’t travel forward as far if I wait.  The problem with not waiting, I seem to be jerking the stuffing out of my flys.  Any thoughts?

Yes; what everybody else told you and this.   To get distance on the forward cast, you need to load the rod properly.   When your back cast straightens behind you (no big loops), start the forward cast a bit more slowly until the rod begins to load from the weight of the line, THEN apply all that power you’re using.   Don’t give it the full magilla all at once.   It should be a gradual acceleration, not a sharp increase to full power. Joe F.

Response:

I’m relatively new to fly casting and have a question regarding casting technique.  When I transition from backcast to forecast I often hear the fly and line cracking (poping really) like a whip when the fly reverses direction to go forward.  Is this normal?  I suspect that I’m not letting the line straighten behind me before casting forward; therefore, it’s just like cracking a whip.  The problem with waiting though seems to be that the line doesn’t travel forward as far if I wait.  The problem with not waiting, I seem to be jerking the stuffing out of my flys.  Any thoughts?

Well, first, quit stuffing your fly – it’ll make the girls (or the boys, depending on your personal choices) think you silly – and that way, you’ll not jerk it out.  Hmm…that reminds me of Blazing Saddles – "pardon me while I whip this out…," and speaking of whipping…. …yup, "cracking the whip" is timing.  Turn your head and look over your shoulder at the fly – and for Pete’s (or really, the Canadian of your choice) sake, don’t use full-hook flies to practice – try using bright, puffy whiffs – and try beginning your forward cast when the fly begins to start into the loop’s roll.  I suspect your particular distance thing is timing-related, as well, due to timing because of <oh, lord, well, let’s just say it’s likely timing-related, but without more info and seeing you cast, I’ll make that guess and leave it at that.   Just stay with it, you’ll get it – practice, practice, and oh, BTW, practice. TC, R – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Regards, Eric

Response:

…. load… <oh lord  He said it!  He said it! <G TC, R Where’s that duck dropping from the lights?

Well, you’re a lovely couple and I think you should get married. Wolfgang somewhere in the viaduct

Response:

…. load… <oh lord  He said it!  He said it! <G TC, R Where’s that duck dropping from the lights?

LOL.   In keeping with the oft-dispensed advice, I thought long and hard before hitting the send key on that one.   Thought I could slip it benignly past if I omitted all controversial adverbs. Joe F.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – …. load… <oh lord  He said it!  He said it! <G TC, R Where’s that duck dropping from the lights? Well, you’re a lovely couple and I think you should get married.

Why would I wanna marry a duck, via whatever means…oh, you just want the film rights so you can sell the tape….on eBay…. TC, R fearing the ductile nature of threads…. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Wolfgang somewhere in the viaduct

Response:

Via duck, vie not a turkey or a chicken? Op

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – …. load… <oh lord  He said it!  He said it! <G TC, R Where’s that duck dropping from the lights? Well, you’re a lovely couple and I think you should get married. Wolfgang somewhere in the viaduct

Response:

I’m relatively new to fly casting and have a question regarding casting technique.  When I transition from backcast to forecast I often hear the fly and line cracking (poping really) like a whip when the fly reverses direction to go forward.  Is this normal?

No It’s really hard to fix your problem by suggesting  possible solution with words alone.  You may want to rent a casting video from a local fly fishing shop.  If the line droops when you do try to let it completely unroll on the backcast, try aiming your backcast a little bit up and to the back and not just to the back.  HTH. Mu

Response:

I’m relatively new to fly casting and have a question regarding casting technique.  When I transition from backcast to forecast I often hear the fly and line cracking (poping really) like a whip when the fly reverses direction to go forward.  Is this normal?  I suspect that I’m not letting the line straighten behind me before casting forward; therefore, it’s just like cracking a whip.  The problem with waiting though seems to be that the line doesn’t travel forward as far if I wait.  The problem with not waiting, I seem to be jerking the stuffing out of my flys.  Any thoughts? Regards, Eric

Eric: Something that helped me alot was waiting until I felt the rod "load up" on my back stroke. I also notice this is easier to feel with a "slower" rod. Just a thought. M. Wm.

Response:

Casting next to big picture windows….the solar tinted kind that act like mirrors…can aid in watching how your line behaves while it’s behinds you. I’m just a not very sensitive guy. It seems like my hands take forever to learn something….I mean you should have seen the hook and weight contraption I had to build just to learn how to tie bloodknots.  Having acces to one of these type of windows helped me learn to cast (not that I can). Being able to see when I was supposed to be feeling my line assisted me in actually learning to feel it. john

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m relatively new to fly casting and have a question regarding casting technique.  When I transition from backcast to forecast I often hear the fly and line cracking (poping really) like a whip when the fly reverses direction to go forward.  Is this normal?  I suspect that I’m not letting the line straighten behind me before casting forward; therefore, it’s just like cracking a whip.  The problem with waiting though seems to be that the line doesn’t travel forward as far if I wait.  The problem with not waiting, I seem to be jerking the stuffing out of my flys.  Any thoughts? Regards, Eric

Response:

…. load…

<oh lord  He said it!  He said it! <G TC, R Where’s that duck dropping from the lights? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Joe F.

Response:

I’m relatively new to fly casting and have a question regarding casting technique.  When I transition from backcast to forecast I often hear the fly and line cracking (poping really) like a whip when the fly reverses direction to go forward.  Is this normal?  I suspect that I’m not letting the line straighten behind me before casting forward; therefore, it’s just like cracking a whip.  The problem with waiting though seems to be that the line doesn’t travel forward as far if I wait.  The problem with not waiting, I seem to be jerking the stuffing out of my flys.  Any thoughts? Regards, Eric

If the fly "cracks" when you commence your forward cast, this is a result of it breaking the sound barrier when it "goes around the bend". This will shred most flies very quickly indeed, if it does not break them off to start with. This is caused by you reversing direction, and applying forward motion to the fly, while it is still travelling backwards. The fault is indeed caused by starting the forward stroke too soon.  This is often compounded by allowing the rod to "drift" too far back, or indeed a power stroke which is too long. Too much power is also a cause of this fault. The remedy is to apply less power, stop your backast a little earlier, and wait for the line to straighten before commencing the forward stroke. Concentrate on throwing your backcast "up", instead of "back", and the fault will probably disappear.  Watching your back-cast will help here. When the line is straight out behind you, commence the forward stroke. When casting heavy flies, or greater distances, a "single haul" may be of considerable assistance. This is a pull on the line with the "line" hand, at the start of the forward stroke. TL MC

Response:

I’m relatively new to fly casting and have a question regarding casting technique.  When I transition from backcast to forecast I often hear the fly and line cracking (poping really) like a whip when the fly reverses direction to go forward.  Is this normal?

It means MAXIMUM POWER!!!  I suspect that I’m not letting the line straighten behind me before casting forward; therefore, it’s just like cracking a whip.  The problem with waiting though seems to be that the line doesn’t travel forward as far if I wait.

Just kidding.  It’s bad.  You definitely need to wait.  Stick with it – maybe take a lesson – you will definitely be able to generate line speed other ways.   You’re not trying to cast like 80 feet, are you?

Response:

  I’m relatively new to fly casting and have a question regarding casting technique.  When I transition from backcast to forecast I often hear the fly and line cracking (poping really) like a whip when the fly reverses direction to go forward.  Is this normal?  I suspect that I’m not letting the line straighten behind me before casting forward; therefore, it’s just like cracking a whip.  The problem with waiting though seems to be that the line doesn’t travel forward as far if I wait.  The problem with not waiting, I seem to be jerking the stuffing out of my flys.  Any thoughts?

It sounds like your analysis is correct.  This is not normal and you should try and let the line straighten out behind you.  Perhaps you can add a little haul on the  forward cast to get more distance if it is a problem. I haven’t seen you cast and I am not a "casting coach," other than to some of my friends I am trying to teach, so take my advice for what it is worth. You get what you pay for and all that. . . Perhaps some of the better casters will chime in with their opinions. — Warren Findley Remove (nospamZZ) to respond via email http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt/

Response:

I’m relatively new to fly casting and have a question regarding casting technique.  When I transition from backcast to forecast I often hear the fly and line cracking (poping really) like a whip when the fly reverses direction to go forward.  Is this normal?  I suspect that I’m not letting the line straighten behind me before casting forward; therefore, it’s just like cracking a whip.  The problem with waiting though seems to be that the line doesn’t travel forward as far if I wait.  The problem with not waiting, I seem to be jerking the stuffing out of my flys.  Any thoughts? Regards, Eric

Response:

Question:

I recommend Gary LaFontaine’s Fly Fishing the Mountain Lakes. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Most trout lakes have dragon- and damselflies in abundance so nymph imitations of those may possibly work, though warming water will get them more attention. Another possibility would be a callibaetis nymph.

Or streamers if there are some big ones in there. Baitfish and leeches. Very good suggestion on the damsels and dragons, they’re common and a substantial meal compared to a lot of other nymphs. And if someone recommends damsel nymphs or says they’re hot on the lake right now or starting to hatch or whatever, try to retrieve them toward shore because they migrate to shore and then hatch out of the water. Another tip: There’s no way to retrieve too slowly for most insect imitations in a lake. Another tip: If you fish chironomids, try them with a floating line and a very long leader to give a vertical presentation like the natural. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Deb & I are gearing up (literally) for the upcoming season and she really enjoyed fly fishing some of the local lakes.  The reason she enjoyed it so much was that she could really practice her casting, move away from people, and I did all the rowing. What I know about fly fishing lakes would rattle in a thimble.  I purchased a few books on fly fishing lakes and we have been tying up chronomids like crazy. Any you Roffian pros have any pointers for the lake fishing novices?  We hear, thru the local fly shop, that fly fishing has been pretty good at some of the lower elevation (read not frozen) lakes.  What would the trout be likely to be hitting this time of winter?  The fly shop owner thought Wolly Buggers fished on the bottom and slow might do the trick…any others? —– Padishar Creel Going through life in a constant state of confusion.

Response:

In May, I want to try for Ounaniche, using streamers (probably Magog Smelt) at Lac Tremblant. It is my understanding that these fish are deep and my question is this. If I use a Hardy Silex and a Spey-type rod with the streamer on a short 3 – 4ft leader, do I need to add weight to the streamer or weight the tip of the line in order to keep it down? I’m not sure what will happen here as I’ve never trolled a fly in deep water before. Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – To help you out a little regarding lake fishing, often your success is best under water.  Lakes that have Cutthroat can offer up some interesting dry fly fishing on occasion.  A miller moth or proper dry fly on the surface can be exciting but fishing them a little different and with more patience can produce heart stopping strikes.  Try letting your fly just sit after it lands upon the water.  The little ‘ring’ is an attraction as it is.  Let it set for fifteen seconds before you twitch the fly or surface film nymph just an inch.  Wait five seconds and do it again. Having full sinking shooting heads and sink tips are a must.  Your leader lengths should be kept short.  Eighteen inches of butt, taper, and tippet each is all you need because you want your streamers to not lag or sag or carry long curves of action under water because they are so far removed from the main line.  A particularly wonderful but simple lake fly on 2X hooks of medium size consists of a small sprig of Marlboro Red hackle tips about a quarter inch long, a peacock herl body with grizzly hackle at the head, pulled back a bit over the body is deadly.  Cast her out and let it sink and then when you’re at the depth you want, use short three inch strips.  This simple fly is a must for those who fish lakes and ponds from tubes. Leach patterns on size 8 – 4 long shank hooks often get instant attention.  Black with Olive Green palmered hackle bodies along with a green marabou tail and variations thereof are an arsenal must.  These are especially deadly on bass.  (Big Bass) Use Chenille for your bodies.  Black bodies, black marabou overwing, olive tail but keep it short and palmered green grizzly hackle bodies can vary by changing to black and brown, believe it or not, etc.  Leach patterns pump and breath and work well in large rivers.  I think often the darker patterns are taken for muddlers at times because these streamers seem to catch bigger fish.  Use a sink product to get these fluffy babies down and working. — (C) George Gehrke 2001 http://www.gink.com/shopcart/index.html     fine bamboo flyrods & blanks

Response:

For trolling flies deeply , a sinking line is required. Depth is controlled by the trolling speed, and the length of line out. Rod and reel are immaterial. For deep trolling ,one  may also use a downrigger, with a normal fly-rod, although fly-line is then basically superfluous, and you might just as well use a normal spinning rod and reel.  This is often very successful. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In May, I want to try for Ounaniche, using streamers (probably Magog Smelt) at Lac Tremblant. It is my understanding that these fish are deep and my question is this. If I use a Hardy Silex and a Spey-type rod with the streamer on a short 3 – 4ft leader, do I need to add weight to the streamer or weight the tip of the line in order to keep it down? I’m not sure what will happen here as I’ve never trolled a fly in deep water before. Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

Response:

Sometimes it helps to know what fish species are in there. I know lakes where there are trout but no bass. Pike but no trout. And so on. It depends on who eats who in the food chain. In a lake with no trout but lots of smallmouth bass for example, there were crayfish remains among the shoreline rocks, so I’d use a crayfish lookalike fly and flip it near the shoreline. Not to say you couldn’t use something else but, what the heck…If you know they like hot dogs, give ‘em hot dogs! I like to fish a lake several times to get to know it. The more the better. Sometimes it takes a couple of years and a lot of listening to the local liars club but don’t necessarily believe them. Some of them wear leech patterns as decoys on their hats but their fly box is full of muddlers.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Deb & I are gearing up (literally) for the upcoming season and she really enjoyed fly fishing some of the local lakes.  The reason she enjoyed it so much was that she could really practice her casting, move away from people, and I did all the rowing. What I know about fly fishing lakes would rattle in a thimble.  I purchased a few books on fly fishing lakes and we have been tying up chronomids like crazy. Any you Roffian pros have any pointers for the lake fishing novices?  We hear, thru the local fly shop, that fly fishing has been pretty good at some of the lower elevation (read not frozen) lakes.  What would the trout be likely to be hitting this time of winter?  The fly shop owner thought Wolly Buggers fished on the bottom and slow might do the trick…any others? —– Padishar Creel Going through life in a constant state of confusion.

Response:

Deb & I are gearing up (literally) for the upcoming season and she really enjoyed fly fishing some of the local lakes.  The reason she enjoyed it so much was that she could really practice her casting, move away from people, and I did all the rowing. What I know about fly fishing lakes would rattle in a thimble.  I purchased a few books on fly fishing lakes and we have been tying up chronomids like crazy. Any you Roffian pros have any pointers for the lake fishing novices?  We hear, thru the local fly shop, that fly fishing has been pretty good at some of the lower elevation (read not frozen) lakes.  What would the trout be likely to be hitting this time of winter?  The fly shop owner thought Wolly Buggers fished on the bottom and slow might do the trick…any others? —– Padishar Creel Going through life in a constant state of confusion.

Response:

Hi Chris, I would suggest you read and digest this site, most especially the articles by Brian Chan. http://www.bcadventure.com/adventure/angling/stillwater/index.phtml My own series of articles on chironomids is not finished, although I have been working on them for quite some time, and I will probably not bother with them now anyway, as he says it better. He also covers more techniques, and better than I could. Woolly buggers, and similar things will often work, but careful imitation and tactics will invariably prove more satisfying, and often more successful. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

Most trout lakes have dragon- and damselflies in abundance so nymph imitations of those may possibly work, though warming water will get them more attention. Another possibility would be a callibaetis nymph.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Deb & I are gearing up (literally) for the upcoming season and she really enjoyed fly fishing some of the local lakes.  The reason she enjoyed it so much was that she could really practice her casting, move away from people, and I did all the rowing. What I know about fly fishing lakes would rattle in a thimble.  I purchased a few books on fly fishing lakes and we have been tying up chronomids like crazy. Any you Roffian pros have any pointers for the lake fishing novices?  We hear, thru the local fly shop, that fly fishing has been pretty good at some of the lower elevation (read not frozen) lakes.  What would the trout be likely to be hitting this time of winter?  The fly shop owner thought Wolly Buggers fished on the bottom and slow might do the trick…any others? —– Padishar Creel Going through life in a constant state of confusion.

Response:

To help you out a little regarding lake fishing, often your success is best under water.  Lakes that have Cutthroat can offer up some interesting dry fly fishing on occasion.  A miller moth or proper dry fly on the surface can be exciting but fishing them a little different and with more patience can produce heart stopping strikes.  Try letting your fly just sit after it lands upon the water.  The little ‘ring’ is an attraction as it is.  Let it set for fifteen seconds before you twitch the fly or surface film nymph just an inch.  Wait five seconds and do it again. Having full sinking shooting heads and sink tips are a must.  Your leader lengths should be kept short.  Eighteen inches of butt, taper, and tippet each is all you need because you want your streamers to not lag or sag or carry long curves of action under water because they are so far removed from the main line.  A particularly wonderful but simple lake fly on 2X hooks of medium size consists of a small sprig of Marlboro Red hackle tips about a quarter inch long, a peacock herl body with grizzly hackle at the head, pulled back a bit over the body is deadly.  Cast her out and let it sink and then when you’re at the depth you want, use short three inch strips.  This simple fly is a must for those who fish lakes and ponds from tubes. Leach patterns on size 8 – 4 long shank hooks often get instant attention.  Black with Olive Green palmered hackle bodies along with a green marabou tail and variations thereof are an arsenal must.  These are especially deadly on bass.  (Big Bass) Use Chenille for your bodies.  Black bodies, black marabou overwing, olive tail but keep it short and palmered green grizzly hackle bodies can vary by changing to black and brown, believe it or not, etc.  Leach patterns pump and breath and work well in large rivers.  I think often the darker patterns are taken for muddlers at times because these streamers seem to catch bigger fish.  Use a sink product to get these fluffy babies down and working. — (C) George Gehrke 2001 http://www.gink.com/shopcart/index.html     fine bamboo flyrods & blanks

Response:

Question:

I’ve found that if you use too fine a tippet in relation to strength, you’ll get major twisting if there is a hard wind.  

This is one time where a thicker or stiffer tippet would be better. Willi

Response:

I’ve found that if you use too fine a tippet in relation to strength, you’ll get major twisting if there is a hard wind.  It seems to be that even though you’ve increased your tippet strength, you still have to match the tippet to the size fly you are casting.  In essence you still need to match DIAMETER with you fly size.  I’ve seen it alot where people insist on matching the BREAKING STRENGTH to the fly size which results in the aforementioned twisting.

Really?  That’s nutty.  Absolutely – diameter (translating into a certain stiffness and/or a certain mass of line) is what matters because that’s what determines how the fly will be cast and presented. Regards, Jeff

Response:

Increases in tippet strength, IMHO, is the most significant improvement in fly fishing equipment in the last fifty years. When I started fly fishing, a tippet fine enough to use with a size 20 fly had a breaking strength of under a pound.  Tough to land a good fish on a tippet that weak. I’m hard pressed to come up with a situation where a finer tippet of the same strength wouldn’t be superior. Willi

I’ve found that if you use too fine a tippet in relation to strength, you’ll get major twisting if there is a hard wind.  It seems to be that even though you’ve increased your tippet strength, you still have to match the tippet to the size fly you are casting.  In essence you still need to match DIAMETER with you fly size.  I’ve seen it alot where people insist on matching the BREAKING STRENGTH to the fly size which results in the aforementioned twisting. — Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana http://www.montana.com/dno/dno.htm 406-626-4022

Response:

Increases in tippet strength, IMHO, is the most significant improvement in fly fishing equipment in the last fifty years. When I started fly fishing, a tippet fine enough to use with a size 20 fly had a breaking strength of under a pound.  Tough to land a good fish on a tippet that weak. I’m hard pressed to come up with a situation where a finer tippet of the same strength wouldn’t be superior. Willi

Response:

Small diameter is not always desirable.

Why not?  By "small diameter", what we really mean is "small diameter relative to its strength".  So if you want a bigger diameter, you could still use "small diameter for its strength", and then a bigger diameter in that brand, and you’ll have the diameter you want but stronger than the other brand. In my experience, Maxima tippet consistently runs about one mil larger than marked.

More like .002 in my experience! Nevertheless, it is an excellent tippet material because it handles abuse much better than some with better specs.

Orvis Super Strong is damn strong, though.  Or damn thin, depending on how you look at it eh? Regards, Jeff

Response:

Increases in tippet strength, IMHO, is the most significant improvement in fly fishing equipment in the last fifty years. When I started fly fishing, a tippet fine enough to use with a size 20 fly had a breaking strength of under a pound.  Tough to land a good fish on a tippet that weak. I’m hard pressed to come up with a situation where a finer tippet of the same strength wouldn’t be superior. Willi

If it is stiffer it might interfere with fly presentation. Peter G. Aitken

Response:

Hello,    As someone new to the sport I have a question regarding tippet material. Does it have to be a specific material or can you use regular fishing line of the correct diameter? I ask this because I noticed that the line I use on my spinning reel lists a dia. of .010 which is the dia. of the tippet I’m told is the correct for the size flies I will be using. Can I use this line or do I have to use a material specific for tippets?

There is a lot of development of monofilament going on with things like copolymers etc. The main effect is that of getting more breaking strength for the same diameter. In addition, the stiffness and abrasion reisitance and knot strength may be affected. Nevertheless, there is no law to prevent you from using any material you want. Small diameter is not always desirable. In my experience, Maxima tippet tconsistently runs about one mil larger than marked. Even so, the strength for a given marked diameter runs less than on other tippet such as Dai-Riki. Nevertheless, it is an excellent tippet material because it handles abuse much better than some with better specs. Bill

Response:

Leader and tippet material is just the same as ordinary Nylon monofilament fishing line.  Some prefer certain types of Nylon, "soft or hard" for instance which makes the leader/tippet, "stiff or limp".    Basically any fishing line will do however. Many people buy spools of the line they like and make up their own leaders and tippets from it.    If you are just starting out, I would recommend buying knotless tapered leaders from your local tackle shop, and a couple of spools of tippet material ( ordinary line ) in the diameters you require. You can of course learn to tie up your own leaders immediately, it is not hard to do. Have a look at   http://home.pacbell.net/ernie2/ and   http://globalflyfisher.com Both of these sites have good info on  leaders . TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

   As someone new to the sport I have a question regarding tippet material. Does it have to be a specific material or can you use regular fishing line of the correct diameter? I ask this because I noticed that the line I use on my spinning reel lists a dia. of .010 which is the dia. of the tippet I’m told is the correct for the size flies I will be using. Can I use this line or do I have to use a material specific for tippets?

You can use it.  It should just be a good match with the end of the leader you’re using and match your fly.  The stiffnes of the line is also a factor. The only problem is that the diameter listed might not be correct.  Even with "official" tippet material where the diameter is usually more important than the breaking strength, it is often off.  But probably not so much that it will make a huge difference.  .010 is also called 1X, which is a bit on the heavy side for a lot of trout flies – I was wondering what fly you’re using. Regards, Jeff

Response:

Bonjour, You can use regular fishing line of the correct diameter. The most important in leader and tippet is to tye good knots as a bad knot will brake really easily. The most important in Nylon is to avoid using an too old one. Then remember that from a "regular" fishing line to another one you have differences in coating and other chemical treatements wich make a Nylon softer or not from another one. You have to know what you are searching for, considering lenght of your tippet, size of the fly, wet or dry… Philippe Pacific Angling on Line http://fishing.ifrance.com * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is Beautiful

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello, As someone new to the sport I have a question regarding tippet material. Does it have to be a specific material or can you use regular fishing line of the correct diameter? I ask this because I noticed that the line I use on my spinning reel lists a dia. of .010 which is the dia. of the tippet I’m told is the correct for the size flies I will be using. Can I use this line or do I have to use a material specific for tippets? TIA Rich Kent I no expert, but I don’t see any reason not to use it. Hell, if you’ve got a big spool of it, I’d say that’s a really good reason to use it. Welcome to the sport and as a newcomer, stick around this group. There’s info here amongst the BS.

I’ve started making my own leaders this year.  In doing so I have looked at different companies for my leader material.  I have found the diameter and strength not the same with each company.  I’ve then found that most tippet material, though the same diameter as regular monofilament, is much stronger.  With this in mind, I don’t see any reason why you couldn’t use regular monofilament as long as you understand that it might not be as strong as tippet material for the same diameter. — Vern My ROFF page: http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/ResortRd/v_deloy/ROFFintro.html Before you buy.

Response:

Hello,     As someone new to the sport I have a question regarding tippet material. Does it have to be a specific material or can you use regular fishing line of the correct diameter? I ask this because I noticed that the line I use on my spinning reel lists a dia. of .010 which is the dia. of the tippet I’m told is the correct for the size flies I will be using. Can I use this line or do I have to use a material specific for tippets? TIA Rich Kent

I no expert, but I don’t see any reason not to use it. Hell, if you’ve got a big spool of it, I’d say that’s a really good reason to use it. Welcome to the sport and as a newcomer, stick around this group. There’s info here amongst the BS.

Response:

Hello,     As someone new to the sport I have a question regarding tippet material. Does it have to be a specific material or can you use regular fishing line of the correct diameter? I ask this because I noticed that the line I use on my spinning reel lists a dia. of .010 which is the dia. of the tippet I’m told is the correct for the size flies I will be using. Can I use this line or do I have to use a material specific for tippets? TIA Rich Kent

Response:

Question:

Wouldn’t  that be a white wine to go with the nits? Small point but arn’t the chimps actually culling the nits rather that picking them? Dave

Response:

[deleted] Not to pick a nit but according to Bartlett’s it’s "Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it." -George Santayana (with an assist by Euripides & Thucydides)

So *that’s* why my backcast snags the same damned limb of the same damned tree two (and more) casts in a row !.  Euripedes must have been a dry fly fisherman… — TimW

Response:

<snipped it finally settles in at $242. Two Hundred Forty-Two friggin’ dollars for a $30 slice of a company that doesn’t earn squat.

Our President was listed as a developer for VA Research and was able to purchase 140 shares at the IPO price.  I foresee improvements in his fishing equipment for a long time to come. bc.

Response:

So *that’s* why my backcast snags the same damned limb of the same damned tree two (and more) casts in a row !.  Euripedes must have been a dry fly fisherman…

This reminds me of a funny thing that happened astream. I was fishing with Wayno on Dick’s Creek. The arrangement was that one person would fish till he caught a fish then the other guy would fish since both of us couldn’t fish this tiny stream at the same time. We slithered through the laurel, slunk over the rocks and finally came to small pool surrounded completely by brush. Wayno in his best stealth mode got into position, made a perfect cast and got a strike. When he went to set the hook he missed and the fly lodged in the brush behind him. "Forty, come over here and give it a try" he whispered. "If I stand up to get that fly I’ll spook this pool." I crawled over next to Wayno, made a good cast and got a strike. When I went to set the hook I missed and my fly lodged in the brush just inches from Wayno’s. There we were, staring at a pool with at least one or two fat little rainbows in it and we both had our flies in the brush behind us with no way to retrieve them without putting down the fish. Flyfishin’ in The Old North State, what a hoot. — Ken Fortenberry

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… Just what do you invest in? Savings bonds? Money Market funds? TIAA annuities?

Beanie Babies. I’m bettin’ the farm on Beanie Babies. — Ken Fortenberry

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… Just what do you invest in? Savings bonds? Money Market funds? TIAA annuities? Beanie Babies. I’m bettin’ the farm on Beanie Babies.

Forget Beanie Babies, Ken. What you want to do is to short Beanie Baby futures. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

I’m sure the high-tech investors are quite smart and are making tons of dough. Personally, I’m scared of it. I like to buy stocks to stick in the back of the filing cabinet and forget about. With Anheuser I KNOW that someone, somewhere is drinking a LOT of Budweiser.

BUD (Anheuser Busch) has been a pretty good investment over the past couple of years. Not super spectacular, but decent. (Their web site isn’t Y2K compliant, so that alone gives me pause.) Before you write off high-tech stocks answer the following questions: 1. Do you think computers will be more important, less important, or about the same to the economy in the future? 2. Do you think the Internet’s importance will grow, shrink, or stay the same? If you think that high tech is just some passing fancy, so you’ve avoided investing in companies like Microsoft, Apple, Intel, Intuit, Adobe, Oracle, etc., etc., ad infinitum, then I’m afraid you’ve made some very ill-advised investment decisions. Just what do you invest in? Savings bonds? Money Market funds? TIAA annuities? — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

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… Based on Laueies father’s advice I plan to sleep in late the try to  catch the afternoon black fly hatch.   Have been hitting the bike so perhaps I will be able  to fish a couple of days without the knees giving out.

As I recall, Laurie’s dad recommended the early afternoon Blue Wing Olive hatch on the white water section of the Nantahalla. I’m still undecided whether he was trying to put us on to good fishing or kill Wayno. In either case, be careful out there, that’s some damn near impossible wading no matter how good your knees are. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

 Ken  you are probably right, anyone holding such a non profit high wrist stock is probably not very smart. …

Congratulations on finally retiring the "*". I’m sure the high-tech investors are quite smart and are making tons of dough. Personally, I’m scared of it. I like to buy stocks to stick in the back of the filing cabinet and forget about. With Anheuser I KNOW that someone, somewhere is drinking a LOT of Budweiser. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

 Ken  you are probably right, anyone holding such a non profit high wrist stock is probably not very smart. So I am selling half of my Linus stock, will have to pay to capital gains tax  but should still have e enough cash left to pay for my squaw’s new Jaguar and our trip to New Zealand. Leaving tomorrow morning for NC mountains for a few days bumming around. Based on Laueies father’s advice I plan to sleep in late the try to  catch the afternoon black fly hatch.   Have bee n hitting the bike so perhaps I will be able  to fish a couple of days without the knees giving out.

Response:

Wouldn’t  that be a white wine to go with the nits? Small point but arn’t the chimps actually culling the nits rather that picking them? Dave

Nope, Beaujolais Nouveau

Response:

: Man, they didn’t cover this shit in the investing seminar I went : to. Sure they did. Look in the index under "Ponzi". That’s certainly an interesting observation. At the very least it’s "irrational exuberance". I’m like George Adams, I’m leery of high-tech stocks and have very little of them.

Unfortunately for you and George and Jonathan, Ken, that means you’re missed one of the best investment opportunities in history. And it isn’t over. Not by a long shot. I haven’t seen the post that started this thread. I assume it referred to the LNUX IPO (VA Linux). In my opinion you’d be nuts to buy it now, when it’s well over 200. When it goes below 80 or even 100 look out. What the Linux market frenzy illustrates is the hatred and fear the industry has for Microsoft. People want an alternative to Windows, and along comes one that’s not only better than Windows, but it’s also free! What more could you ask? The only thing Linux lacks right now is a large, diverse set of applications. If Linux continues to take off, look for investments in Linux application developers. About flyfishing: My thanks to Bob, who who not only sent me several nice bonefish flies, but also sent complete tieing materials and an 2-page list of Christmas Island tips. I owe you one, buddy. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

: Man, they didn’t cover this shit in the investing seminar I went : to. Sure they did. Look in the index under "Ponzi".

That’s certainly an interesting observation. At the very least it’s "irrational exuberance". I’m like George Adams, I’m leery of high-tech stocks and have very little of them. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

There we were, staring at a pool with at least one or two fat little rainbows in it and we both had our flies in the brush behind us with no way to retrieve them without putting down the fish.

Exactly why you should always carry a ‘pocket fisherman’<g. — Charlie…

Response:

You guys both need de-lousing.  Do it like chimpanzees do it; they pick and eat each others’ parasites as a sign of familial grace.

Alas, I’m neither graceful nor familial enough to be a chimp<g. — Charlie…

Response:

Not to pick a nit but according to Bartlett’s it’s Shouldn’t there be a comma after ‘nit’<g? — Charlie…

You guys both need de-lousing.  Do it like chimpanzees do it; they pick and eat each others’ parasites as a sign of familial grace. Mu

Response:

Not to pick a nit but according to Bartlett’s it’s Shouldn’t there be a comma after ‘nit’<g? — Charlie… You guys both need de-lousing.  Do it like chimpanzees do it; they pick and eat each others’ parasites as a sign of familial grace.

I think that’s what we’ve been witnessing, Mu…

Response:

Maybe a paraphrase of: "Those who do not remember the past are condemned to repeat it." -George Santayana

Not to pick a nit but according to Bartlett’s it’s "Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it." -George Santayana (with an assist by Euripides & Thucydides) — Ken Fortenberry

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Not to pick a nit but according to Bartlett’s it’s Shouldn’t there be a comma after ‘nit’<g? —

YOU DA MAN ! — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

Not to pick a nit but according to Bartlett’s it’s

Shouldn’t there be a comma after ‘nit’<g? — Charlie…

Response:

The scary thing is that the same type of thing occurred in the 1920’s with the hot technology of the time…..radio. There were all sorts of predictions of the way radio would change the world and generate millions in profits for those that invested early, and millions jumped on the bandwagon. When it became apparent the the stocks were vastly overpriced, the bubble burst, and this was one of many financial disasters that contibuted to the crash of 1929. I’m not predicting another crash, but I don’t have a whole lot invested in technology stocks. "Those who ignore the lessons of history are doomed to repeat them" ___unknown George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

Response:

"Those who ignore the lessons of history are doomed to repeat them" ___unknown

Maybe a paraphrase of: "Those who do not remember the past are condemned to repeat it." -George Santayana — Charlie…

Response:

rw posted here on the 7th about VA Linux (VA Lnx on the NASDAQ) going public on the 8th. Now VA puts together some nice boxes, does a real good job of configuring a nice system with just as many bells & whistles as you need and no more, but they don’t make any money at it. That’s right, a quote from their prospectus: "We do not expect to generate sufficient revenues to achieve profitability and therefore we expect to continue to incur net losses for the foreseeable future." So a company that doesn’t make money and doesn’t expect to make money in the future, makes an IPO of 4.4 million shares at $30 a share and traders bid the price up to $320 a share !! before it finally settles in at $242. Two Hundred Forty-Two friggin’ dollars for a $30 slice of a company that doesn’t earn squat. Man, they didn’t cover this shit in the investing seminar I went to. — Ken Fortenberry- buying some more Anheuser-Busch instead

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Question:

Can anyone help, I’m a British fly fisherman and on a recent trip to the states I noticed how much cheaper fly lines etc. are. I was wondering whether anybody knew of how you can get fly flishing equipment by internet order

Start a search in one of the search engines (Yahoo, Alta Vista, Infoseek, etc.) for flyfishing equipment and supplies. There are many out there on the web to seek out. Also, keep an eye out in this group, people do list their web sites quite often – even though some do object to that. — Jon Porter

Response:

Cold Spring Anglers in Carlisle, PA also produces a nice catalog and does a lot of mail order business (including to foreign addresses).  Their phones numbers are 717 245-2646, fax 717 245-2081.  Their snail mail address is 419 East High Street, Suite A; PO Box 129; Carlsile PA 17013 17013–129.

Visit my mail order info page at http://www.public.usit.net/skulpa/mailord.htm lots of address for catalogs, plus e-mail addresses and urls where applicable. Steve — Steven S. Kulpa Project Leader Environmental Systems Corp. Knoxville, Tennessee http://www.envirosys.com/ Remove NO_S*P*A*M_ from reply address —

Response:

Cold Spring Anglers in Carlisle, PA also produces a nice catalog and does a lot of mail order business (including to foreign addresses).  Their phones numbers are 717 245-2646, fax 717 245-2081.  Their snail mail address is 419 East High Street, Suite A; PO Box 129; Carlsile PA 17013 17013–129. — Anti-spamming measure in use.  To reply, remove one "z" from email address.

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Can anyone help, I’m a British fly fisherman and on a recent trip to the states I noticed how much cheaper fly lines etc. are. I was wondering whether anybody knew of how you can get fly flishing equipment by internet order Paul mannu cambridge UK

Paul: Why not just order from catalogs, etc.?  The biggest disadvantage would be shipping costs, but still, if the stuff is cheaper here, it would probably be worthwhile.  Also, for merchandise that can’t be found in a national catalog (Simms waders, Sage rods, Airflo fly line, whatever else), many stores have web pages and their own "personal" catalogs. Examples here in the East would be AA Pro shop and Tulpehocken Creek Outfitters, (tcoflyfishing.com) to name 2.  Any fly shop would fill your order, even those that do not ususally do such business.  One of the best fly shops in the East is Fred Reese’s.  He does all his own dubbings, dyeing, etc.  Give him an extra $10 US and I’m sure he’ll ship. JB

Response:

Can anyone help, I’m a British fly fisherman and on a recent trip to the states I noticed how much cheaper fly lines etc. are. I was wondering whether anybody knew of how you can get fly flishing equipment by internet order Paul mannu cambridge UK

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Question:

Here in ROFF I have learned the following: Trolling a fly from a float tube is not flyfishing Using a strike indicator is almost flyfishing Using more than one fly is really flyfishing Presenting dry flies upstream is the only true flyfishing Eating trout is OK (and tasty) Eating trout is not OK, but perch taste better anyway Tailwaters are bad Tailwaters are fabulous Tim is a funny guy Ralph really likes Tim Many people want to flyfish Colorado needs hatcheries Hatcheries ultimately hurt anadromous species It ain’t the way it used to be And I agree with all of these things……. JE

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Here in ROFF I have learned the following: Tim is a funny guy Ralph really likes Tim

like him? I absolutley adore the big neurotic lug! Ralph H remove "take_this_out" for email reply

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Question:

Looking for a fly shop or resource for current fishing information about the St. Mary’s River, particularly information regarding Fall steelhead. Twice now, I have been to the river and both times the gates were wide open making the river unfishable.  Thanks in advance.

Local guides and clubs are identified in:  Linsenman, Bob, and Steve Nevala  Great Lakes Steelhead: a Guided Tour for Fly Anglers  Backcountry Pubs., Woodstock Vt. 1995 This information will not help you when the dam gates are open. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Response:

Looking for a fly shop or resource for current fishing information about the St. Mary’s River, particularly information regarding Fall steelhead. Twice now, I have been to the river and both times the gates were wide open making the river unfishable.  Thanks in advance. Jim Francois Stillwater, MN

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Question:

     I KNOW, I KNOW!  For reasons I do not need to give here, I cannot fish in the conventional way with a flyrod.  I use the castabubble and 6 ft. leader technique.        If there are any other practitioners of this secret practice, I have some questions.  You can e-mail me secretly and anonymously if you like to keep your closet castabubble practice a secret.      Do I fill up the castabubble completely, or leave some air in it? It seems to make a "wake" on retrieval if there is air in it.  Does this spook the fish?      Do I go  s  -  l  -  o  -  w  , slow, medium, stop and go, or what on retrieve speed.        What kind of flies are the best for this, name and size, please. Do I put floating goop on them to keep them up, or let them become waterlogged and sink?      Do I put a strike indicator, or some tiny float ahead of the fly to keep it up?  If I use large flies like wooly worms, how far down do I let them sink?      I have a secret envy when watching fly fishermen lay that tiny fly down on a ripple way out there.  Just beautiful!  I think sometime they have a secret envy when I show up with $ 20 worth of gear and catch more than they did.      I appreciate all the help.  Steve All replies will be held in the strictest of confidence.

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:      I KNOW, I KNOW!  For reasons I do not need to give here, I cannot : fish in the conventional way with a flyrod.  I use the castabubble and : 6 ft. leader technique.   I can but choose not to most of the time. :      If there are any other practitioners of this secret practice, I : have some questions.  You can e-mail me secretly and anonymously if you : like to keep your closet castabubble practice a secret. No shame in that. I do it quite often when fishing a lake from the shore. It enables me to cast much further out into the lake than with a fly rod when using dry flies or small artificials. :      Do I fill up the castabubble completely, or leave some air in it? : It seems to make a "wake" on retrieval if there is air in it.  Does : this spook the fish? Suit yourself. I generally leave them half full so I can see them. :      Do I go  s  -  l  -  o  -  w  , slow, medium, stop and go, or what : on retrieve speed.   Depends on the lure. With a dry fly I just give it a twitch every once in a while. With a spinner I keep it going fast enough for the blades to spin. :      What kind of flies are the best for this, name and size, please. : Do I put floating goop on them to keep them up, or let them become : waterlogged and sink? Gotta match them to the local conditions. There is no right or wrong answer. :      Do I put a strike indicator, or some tiny float ahead of the fly : to keep it up?  If I use large flies like wooly worms, how far down do : I let them sink? It depends but the Castabubble is all you really need. It’ll take a sudden move just before you feel the strike :      I have a secret envy when watching fly fishermen lay that tiny fly : down on a ripple way out there.  Just beautiful!  I think sometime they : have a secret envy when I show up with $ 20 worth of gear and catch : more than they did. It takes patience and practice. I generally use a fly rod for streams and a Spinning rod for lakes. Other times I take whats easiest to toss in the pickup and head out. BiNM

Response:

    I KNOW, I KNOW!  For reasons I do not need to give here, I cannot fish in the conventional way with a flyrod.  I use the castabubble and 6 ft. leader technique.       If there are any other practitioners of this secret practice, I have some questions.  You can e-mail me secretly and anonymously if you like to keep your closet castabubble practice a secret.

Secret practice?  I’ve probably been using this technique for 15 years though I now do all my flyfishing with a flyrod.     Do I fill up the castabubble completely, or leave some air in it?

Depends on the fly you’re using.  If you’re fishing a dry or wet (grey hackle peacocks are killer with this technique) fill the bubble half to 3/4 full.  You can still chuck it a long way.  If the fish aren’t hitting the surface put on a nymph, streamer, or emerger and fill the bubble up completely.  I used to use the kind of bubbles with just a plastic sleeve in the middle.  I’d run the line through and tie it to a small swivel and then my leader to that.  When the bubble is full it has pretty much a neutral bouyancy and the addition of the swivel and optionally a small split shot will slowely sink it.  Cast it out and use a count down technique before starting your retrieve until you find what depth the fish are.  You can also replace the nymph is a 1-1.5" piece of night crawler and fish it the same way. It seems to make a "wake" on retrieval if there is air in it.  Does this spook the fish?

I don’t think so.  I’ve had some high Sierra brookies hit the bubble on occasion.     Do I go  s  -  l  -  o  -  w  , slow, medium, stop and go, or what on retrieve speed.  

S-l-o-w, when you’re fishing a fly on the surface or just below it, short jerks for nymphs or streamers.     What kind of flies are the best for this, name and size, please. Do I put floating goop on them to keep them up, or let them become waterlogged and sink?     Do I put a strike indicator, or some tiny float ahead of the fly to keep it up?  If I use large flies like wooly worms, how far down do I let them sink?

See above.  The type of fly, whether to use floatant, and the depth are all dependant upon where the fish are feeding.  Rather then use a strike indicator a couple of dots of flourescant paint on the bubble would serve the same purpose, though I’ve never needed to do that. — John Fereira Isis Distributed Systems – Ithaca, NY

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Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I have used a fiberglass drift boat (16ft) for several years now on the Deschutes, upto class 4 whitewater.  Great boat.  If you plan on hitting a few rocks wood is not a good choice.  lots of maintenance-drying out, snding, refinishing 9but they are beautiful.  Company in Portland that sells plans and kits (Greg tatman- adds in flyfishing magazines).  The bow or stern depends on definition-  pointed part goes downriver but you row the other way-  anchor system goes on the broad end, but if lake fishing you need one on the pointed end as the boat will spin very easily in any wind.  Most driftboats will also take up to 10 hp motor.  I have 36lb thrust elecric for my and moves boat very well.  Aluminum is very durable but also noisy.  Definitely a 16ft for three people.  Enjoy

Response:

Hi, My name is Al Beatty and I’m one of a few guides who use a wood drift boat.  You definitely want a 16′ boat for three people; a 14′ boat is too "squirrely" especially in the wind.  I guide in Montana and wind is a definite concern regarding drift boats.  Don Hill makes a really great wood drift boat and also has plans if you want to build your own.  You can find his address in most fly fishing magazines or ask your local fly shop. Normally you run a drift boat down the river bow first and usually the anchor is located on the stern of the boat. Good luck! Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Catalog Available 406-585-0745 (phn & fax)

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Either the Macenzie design(square front) or the Rogue is quite acceptable. Yes the wood  boats are more maintenance but also offer the greatest pleasure.Ever seen photographs of finished wood boats on the river? Compared to plastic or Aluminun there is no comparison.Also a wood boat,contrary to most opinions, is an easier rowing boat; wood boats float upside down!They also don’t blow around in the wind as bad as glass boats,especially the glass boats with rolled gunnels. One downside to a wood boat is lack of watertight storage but that is overcome with dry bags. www:http://www.accessone.com/~davy

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Agree with you comments.  Built a 17′ Rogue River and it has been a jewel to fish from.  Had a fiberglass one previouly.  The wood, drift easier, is easier to handle in big water, is not affected by the wind very much and tracks perfectly.  It is muck quieter and a lot warmer then the fiberglass and metal.  Floated the Keani this week.  Air tempeture was 20 degrees but yet the bottom of the boat was comfortable. — Gene Dobrzynski, Eagle River, Alaska

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 One of the things you forgot to mention was weight. Aluminum being the lightest, then fiberglass and wood. Ernie Harrison

Hmmmm. I’ll agree that aluminum boats are the sturdiest…hands down. But lightest? Not the ones I’ve seen. I remember guiding with Doug McClelland (former TU president, or some such) a few years ago. Doug’s Aumaweld was so heavy I nearly busted a gut trying to help him get it off the trailer. I wonder if anyone has the real weights: say what a 16 Lavro, ClackaCraft or SlideRite weighs compared to an Alumaweld, Willie’s or whatever.   One last point about Aluminum boats: steelhead guides who backtroll plugs like the sharp, molded chine of an aluminum boat, becuase it acts like a keel, and makes it easier to hold a "track" down through a good run. But every silver lining has its pepto bismol counter part…..that sharp, hard chine catches the water too hard when you are rowing sideways to a fast current. Try pulling out into a fast current after eddying out behind a mid-river bolder (with an aluminum driftboat)…..then you’ll get an appreciation for a smooth, rounded chine (like you get in a molded boat).   If you do decide to buy a molded boat, get the stiffest one you can find. Soft bottoms and flexible sides just create lost motion in the rowing process, which makes ’soft’ boats harder to row, and slower to move. —

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I am not sure that Irish and Scots Gillies would agree with your sentiments about glass fibre boats.  Their experience, and I lived to tell the tale, is that properly built wooden boats will take more punishment than GRP – especially when rocks are invisible just below the surface and you only find out they are there too late.  GRP is so easy to look after, which is why that is my choice on Loch Ness (no rocks!) Good fishing Oliver Inverness-shire

Response:

Mike, it is unfortunate that a person can’t get all of the good features in one boat.  One of the things you forgot to mention was weight. Aluminum being the lightest, then fiberglass and wood. There was an article several years ago in Flyfishing about a fellow who recovered drift boats that people lost on Oregon’s salmon and steelhead rivers.  It was amazing what the water had done to these boats.  The fiberglass and wood boats were mostly damaged beyond repair.  The welded aluminum boats were generally all recoverable. Ernie Harrison

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I’m considering building a MacKenzie River drift boat, for use both on local rivers and smaller lakes.  This design is alleged to be quite adequate for drifting and much better for motoring than the Rogue River style drift boat. Does anyone have experience drift-fishing with this type of boat?  Do you drift with bow or stern downstream?  I assume you anchor bow-upstream…but can you mount an anchor bracket on the bow?  For three people, is a 14′ OK or should I go 16′?  Any experience or observations on this type of boat are welcome. Thanks.

Response:

I used a wood drift for several years in Oregon on the coast streams.  A lot of maintenance, thats for sure. But its the best flyfishing platform I’ve ever used. The fiberglass boats seemed to float higher, draw less water, and be more durable.

Response:

"There is an aluminum welded drift boat (Alumnaweld?) which is probably the most durable of all the drift boats and very low maintenance.. Ernie Harrison" Ernie, Alumaweld, the original welded aluminum driftboat.  For more contemporary designs in aluminum, see FishRite and/or Willie Boats. IMHO, Aluminum….noisy, durable, cold, NOT slippery unless bottom is treatet with Gluvit or plastic.  Capable of being made with a hard chine so hold well n water for backtrolling etc. Fiberglass…durable, quieter than aluminum, slippery, flexible rather than a rigid bottom like aluminum, rounded or soft chines. Wood…quietest and warmest, hard chines, classic craftmanship (Rays River Boats of Portland Oregon are some of the best), may be constructed with West System Epoxy techniques to reduce maintenance requirements.  Also, the only naturally buoyant construction material and the lowest center of gravity.                           Mike in PDX                "When the trout are lost, smash the state."                                            Tom McGuane

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writes: The fiberglass boats seemed to float higher, draw less water, and be more durable.

There is an aluminum welded drift boat (Alumnaweld?) which is probably the most durable of all the drift boats and very low maintenance.. Ernie Harrison

Response:

I have used a fiberglass drift boat (16ft) for several years now on the Deschutes, upto class 4 whitewater.  Great boat.  If you plan on hitting a few rocks wood is not a good choice.  lots of maintenance-drying out, snding, refinishing 9but they are beautiful.  Company in Portland that sells plans and kits (Greg tatman- adds in flyfishing magazines).  The bow or stern depends on definition-  pointed part goes downriver but you row the other way-  anchor system goes on the broad end, but if lake fishing you need one on the pointed end as the boat will spin very easily in any wind.  Most driftboats will also take up to 10 hp motor.  I have 36lb thrust elecric for my and moves boat very well.  Aluminum is very durable but also noisy.  Definitely a 16ft for three people.  Enjoy

Response:

Question:

I’m considering a 10-day trip in Montana’s Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness. Specifically I was looking at the area around Jordan Pass and Wounded Man Lake. Can anyone offer estimates about how heavily travelled this part of the world will be this summer? And how about in September? Finally, I’d welcome any suggestions about loops–on or off the trail–that might not be too popular with other hikers. Thanks much.

Response:

I’m considering a 10-day trip in Montana’s Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness. Specifically I was looking at the area around Jordan Pass and Wounded Man Lake. Can anyone offer estimates about how

           story;  does anyone know it?

Response:

I’m considering a 10-day trip in Montana’s Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness. Specifically I was looking at the area around Jordan

There was an article in Backpacker not to long ago on this area.

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I’m considering a 10-day trip in Montana’s Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness. Specifically I was looking at the area around Jordan Pass and Wounded Man Lake. Can anyone offer estimates about how heavily travelled this part of the world will be this summer? And how about in September? Finally, I’d welcome any suggestions about loops–on or off the trail–that might not be too popular with other hikers. Thanks much.

I do not have any current information, but I couldn’t help but reply to this post as it brought back many fond memories – and perhaps some of the information will be helpful. I’ve backpacked in this area twice – once in 1976 on a 6-day trip and again in ‘78 on my honeymoon for an 8-day trip. In both cases, we approached the wilderness from the north out of Big Timber, Montana, along the Boulder River. From the end of the road, we went west on the ‘76 trip (into the Absoraka range) and east on the ‘78 trip (towards Beartooths). The latter is the area you refer to. The 6-day trip was one of my most memorable wilderness experiences. Six days in early July, moving every day, and we only saw one other person.  Fishing was outstanding, beautiful scenery (more gentle than the Beartooth neighbors to the east), perfect weather, and lots of wildlife: elk, moose, deer, and a bighorn sheep (up close and personal while sitting on top of a peak – within 15 yards). On our honeymoon (I’m a lucky guy , we headed east from the parking lot at the end of the boulder river road, then a little south, and reached the Stillwater River in 4 days. We saw a "lot" of people the first day, "a few" the second, and none for the next four days (isn’t that a surprise?:-). We were here in August, which may partly explain the greater number of people. We made about a 75 mile loop in the 8 days. Again, as we started back towards the car, we started seeing more and more people. There seemed to be a lot of outfitters hauling people in and out of base camps on horseback near, yes, Wounded Man Lake. We camped one night near Wounded Man Lake. Sorry, I don’t know the story, but there was a crippled moose at that lake! She could walk with a serious limp, but apparently not run. It is a beautiful lake and we had it to ourselves, although I didn’t do too well fishing there. However, the fishing was GREAT in some small lakes to the west of Wounded Man lake. I don’t remember their names, but they were below the pass that crossed into the headwaters of a stream that eventually flowed into Boulder River. As usual, my wife caught the biggest trout – and to think she had fly-fished for the first time in her life 5 days earlier! One interesting observation – all outfitters and at least one backpacker were carrying firearms. This is prime grizzly country. Oh yeah – and the mosquitos nearly drove my wife crazy. What a great honeymoon. You asked about September – you might want to check the hunting season schedules for that area. It looked like prime big game hunting country. Have a great trip. If you want any more specific information, let me know. I’d love to have an excuse to pull out the ol’ topos. — Harvard Townsend, Systems Manager Kansas State University Dept. of CIS, (913)532-6350

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